I watched another video showing the orifice tube in the same place that it is in this video. When I was trying to take the pipe off of the condenser, SNAP! Broke that line clean off. No orifice tube. Turns out that the OT is in the engine compartment in a 3-way pipe. Luckily, that aluminum pipe assembly was something I could order at the autoparts shop. It's AC Delco part number 1533149, if anyone's interested.
That style condenser is for the rear AC systems like Suburban/ Tahoe etc. It doesn't have office tube in the actual condenser but it's on the same line up toward the passenger side under the air filter. The style condenser with orfice tube has a pressure switch port and two ac line ports. How ever they all fit each other. Great job on the truck.
That makes more sense to me. On the Suburban it's in the output port of the condenser and the cooled gases have to travel all the way to the evaporator? Doesn't make sense. Expansion valves, on the other hand, are fitted right on to the supply port of the evaporator. That's how GM set it up on the Suburban.
Had a shop change my compressor, orafice tue, accumalor . Basically an a/c kit. Still its blowing barely cool. In the video where you put that orafice tube, on mine the line is cold on one side of those two nuts but warm on the other. I told them this when at first I took it in and they told me it just needed that kit they put in. 1,000 and not fixed. To me uts clogged right there and i am wondering if I should try the condensor by myself.
I believe you are right. There's probably a restriction in the old condenser (maybe caused by the old compressor failure sending debris into the condenser) and it can't be cleaned out due to the small size of the condenser tubes. That's why all these compressor providers want the condenser to be replaced with the compressor. I'd bet if you checked the pressure on the high side service port with a gauge, it would indicate below normal pressure. Yes ... if you follow the video procedure, you shouldn't have much difficulty replacing it yourself. Here's a link to an article I wrote describing in detail what's needed to do an evacuation and recharge in text format on another car you might find helpful: axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-Sienna-AC-Service-Repair-Part-III-Evacuation-and-Recharge-with-video
@@hardlymovingpro im 3 years late but having the same problem as M Dutchy. took it in and got the compressor done and it blows cool now (before it just blew hot air). the shop pointed out that im reading ABOVE normal pressure on the high side and that the condenser would need replaced in the near future as well. would the condenser make the air go from cool to ice cold? i'm not very well versed in AC components, yet I lived in the desert. any info would be appreciated :)
@@hardlymovingpro i was just nervous about stripping it out, my truck is rusty and most bolts strip so i didnt want to chance it. Theres a pack on amazon with 6 different 15mm - 24 mm sized line wrenches for $18, i need some wrenches anyhow so il just get it lol
Nice video. Helped me perform the task. The reason there was no orifice tube attached to the condenser may likely be because it is in the line further back ... there should be a union in the line running along the passenger-side wheel well just rear of the battery. The location seems to be a point of confusion ... perhaps GM produced some different variants. Anyhow, once I found this, the OT installed easily in the line at that point. Hope this helps somebody. Cheers.
Perhaps but I wound up replacing EVERYTHING (including the evaporator) except the hoses and there was no sign of a orifice tube anywhere. The feedback from the customer is that the system is now blowing out ice cold air. Anyway, I believe the SOP (standard operating procedure) pretty much is to place the orifice tube in the condenser to ease service. But IMHO, having a expansion valve in front of the input port of the evaporator makes more sense.
You can use an adjustable wrench. Don't recall the size but its large. Be careful. Sometimes these flare nut threads may strip. May have to apply heat (propane torch) to get them loose.
Great video! Super helpful. Just a quick question, at time 1:51 you disconnect a line that runs along the bottom of the condenser. What is that line called & what is its purpose being connected?
I believe it's the ambient air temperature sensor which sends signals to the car's PCM (Power Train Control Module) to modulate optimum air/fuel mixture via the fuel injectors.
At 2:20 whats the first line you take off from the condenser? I have a ac line that is leaking from that same spot you took of the first condenser line, do you perhaps know what the ac line is called? Thanks!!
Great video!! i have a new to me 98 that is missing the condenser, I purchased a new one but have no o-rings? Is that something I need to purchase separately? Where could I purchase them? Thanks again!!
I put a new condenser and a new liquid hose but where they connect freon keeps leaking any suggestions to stop the leak? I tried the oem black o ring and the green ones but they still after having ac on for 40mins
I have the same truck, can the condenser on these models be flushed or do they have to be replaced due to it having microchannels? I thought this was the case on much newer cars.
How to undo the ac Line when they are stuck? Already sheared the upper line of and some part is stuck in the golden screw... dont want this happen on the lower one too. Any ideas?
Hey I need some help. By accident I disconnected the line to the condenser and it started hizzing. And connected back but my car blows hot air. Will a recharge work?
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
Stay away from automatic adjusting orifice tubes! Went through holy hell trying to figure out why I was getting wild swings in low and high pressures working on a Crown Vic. When I replaced it with a cheapo $7 standard tube, everything starting working correctly!
You made it look easy. Just wondering, if this was not for a tutorial, would you have waited until A/c was completely changed/working before putting the grill back on? Great video.
Yeah you can actually drive the truck without the grill. I am working on mine and haven't attached the hoses yet but wanted to drive it a bit to make sure I'd connected all the items it needs to be drivable. And I just taped the turn signal and parking lights to the bumper so they'd stay where they could be seen and drove a few miles like that.
You could but you can add the oil through the high pressure Quick Connect port. Pull vacuum from your low pressure Quick Connect Port , leave your high pressure port open and allow the oil to get sucked into the system.
Can the condenser be replaced wo losing the full refrigerant charge. I repalced all except the condenser and that was a mistake. Looks like its blocked.
@@Biggtruckin No problem! Good Luck with the repair! To support this channel and to get notifications of new tips and tutorials videos, please subscribe.
Brian Fortin thanks, but I’ve removed the grill plenty of times. Actually changing parts of the front end next weekend. Passenger finder, and radiator support to be exact.
That's about right. Auto AC repair is not cheap. A lot of mechanics don't know the basics of AC repair so they tend to avoid doing the repair; hence the high repair estimates even though it doesn't take long to do the repair and the parts are relatively cheap.
@@hardlymovingpro ............my compressor was bad , metal shavings in compressor and orfice tube changed out condenser, compressor and accumulator/dryer. blew out system 4 times until clear, getting high pressure , condenser getting real hot, charged OK , everything checks out , even tested the fan clutch at the radiator figuring it wasnt sucking the heat from the condenser out. checks out OK radiator and condenser clear of debris. put water hose on condensor and let it run................/A/C working great, turn of water hose condenser heats up again and warm air in truck, it's a 1994 1/2 ton 4x4 Silverado. 350 CU. I'm lost as of now...Also have good flow on my water pump to cool radiator. dont know where to turn.
@@tommiller6580 If both your low and high side pressures are high, you may have too much oil in the system and/or the orifice tube got clogged up. Replace the orifice tube with a new one and see what happens. Had a similar problem with a Crown Vic that was driving me nuts! Low side pressure over 80 and high side over 350. The compressor was constantly switching on and off. Blew out the excess oil from the evaporator, and replaced the accumulator. No change. Then replaced the orifice tube. That fixed it!
Good practice to replace with a defective compressor. Internals can have blockages that can't be cleaned out. Other reason is leakage. Cannot be fixed.
what if i just dont put a new one in. i just want to remove it while i have it all apart. i dont care about the ac. my compressor is gone anyways. i wont have any problems if i run it without the ac condenser will i?
The way you vented that freon is a violation of federal law. Most parts stores and garages will evacuate the system properly for very little money, or even free.
ok Karen if you don't like it don't watch it and take your little prius to a shop you can afford and quit making the rest of us sweat. all i hope is when sweat runs in my eyes and i can see then crash into somebody its a karen so there will be one less of them
All of these poor schmoes watching this video and thinking "I CAN HANDLE THIS JOB"... Sure, you might be able to - but it sucks, is very difficult, and you'd better be prepared for HELL. (been there done that.) Let a pro do it! One (or even ten) video does not make anyone a "pro" at doing A/C work!
Not offense, but based on my past observations, some people have neither the patience or aptitude to do auto repair. They're better suited to office work.
I watched another video showing the orifice tube in the same place that it is in this video. When I was trying to take the pipe off of the condenser, SNAP! Broke that line clean off. No orifice tube. Turns out that the OT is in the engine compartment in a 3-way pipe. Luckily, that aluminum pipe assembly was something I could order at the autoparts shop. It's AC Delco part number 1533149, if anyone's interested.
Parts lose their strength with age.
All of them a/c lines get sealed up. JP blaster works great to free them up. I used 2 adjustable wrenches too.
You have rear AC then ... not a C or K 1500 like in the video.
I’ve been looking for a detailed video like this for weeks! Thank you so much!
Thanks! Glad you found it useful!
That style condenser is for the rear AC systems like Suburban/ Tahoe etc. It doesn't have office tube in the actual condenser but it's on the same line up toward the passenger side under the air filter. The style condenser with orfice tube has a pressure switch port and two ac line ports. How ever they all fit each other. Great job on the truck.
Thanks for sharing! 👍 Good to know.
Yes my 1999 chevy tahoe 5.7 also found my orfice tube behind the radiator the line did also go to condenser
Very helpful video. I’m re-doing my fathers AC lines and need to replace the condenser and figure give him a new dryer as well.
Drier could be a bear to get off. The aluminum flare nuts might be seized in place through oxidative coorosion.
I got 98 GMC Savanna 1500 5.7ltr, My orifice tube location was in the pipe going to the evap unit.
That makes more sense to me. On the Suburban it's in the output port of the condenser and the cooled gases have to travel all the way to the evaporator? Doesn't make sense. Expansion valves, on the other hand, are fitted right on to the supply port of the evaporator. That's how GM set it up on the Suburban.
Hello, thanks for making this video, how have these parts held up for the last 6 years ?
No complaints to date.
Thanks! The 96 through 1998 calls for the PAG 150 Though. I'm sure it doesn't matter but that's just what all the specs say
GM went to all PAG 46 in TSBs a long time ago. I believe Ford did, too. There's a few goofballs that keep using the PAG 150, but it's not necessary.
Had a shop change my compressor, orafice tue, accumalor . Basically an a/c kit. Still its blowing barely cool. In the video where you put that orafice tube, on mine the line is cold on one side of those two nuts but warm on the other. I told them this when at first I took it in and they told me it just needed that kit they put in. 1,000 and not fixed. To me uts clogged right there and i am wondering if I should try the condensor by myself.
I believe you are right. There's probably a restriction in the old condenser (maybe caused by the old compressor failure sending debris into the condenser) and it can't be cleaned out due to the small size of the condenser tubes. That's why all these compressor providers want the condenser to be replaced with the compressor. I'd bet if you checked the pressure on the high side service port with a gauge, it would indicate below normal pressure. Yes ... if you follow the video procedure, you shouldn't have much difficulty replacing it yourself. Here's a link to an article I wrote describing in detail what's needed to do an evacuation and recharge in text format on another car you might find helpful:
axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Toyota-Sienna-AC-Service-Repair-Part-III-Evacuation-and-Recharge-with-video
@@hardlymovingpro im 3 years late but having the same problem as M Dutchy. took it in and got the compressor done and it blows cool now (before it just blew hot air). the shop pointed out that im reading ABOVE normal pressure on the high side and that the condenser would need replaced in the near future as well. would the condenser make the air go from cool to ice cold? i'm not very well versed in AC components, yet I lived in the desert. any info would be appreciated :)
2:21 All i needed was to know what size wrench i needed to buy for this bolt thanks lol nobody else showed this part they always skipped it
Don't recall but you can always use an adjustable wrench.
@@hardlymovingpro yeah, in the video i saw it was a 24mm I'm gonna buy one and try this out next week!
@@STREETRACEN4U If you're not going to be using the 24 mm that often, cheaper to use a HD long handle adjustable wrench.
@@hardlymovingpro i was just nervous about stripping it out, my truck is rusty and most bolts strip so i didnt want to chance it. Theres a pack on amazon with 6 different 15mm - 24 mm sized line wrenches for $18, i need some wrenches anyhow so il just get it lol
@@STREETRACEN4U Easiest way of removing rusting nuts and bolts is to apply heat via propane torch.
Nice video. Helped me perform the task. The reason there was no orifice tube attached to the condenser may likely be because it is in the line further back ... there should be a union in the line running along the passenger-side wheel well just rear of the battery. The location seems to be a point of confusion ... perhaps GM produced some different variants. Anyhow, once I found this, the OT installed easily in the line at that point. Hope this helps somebody. Cheers.
Perhaps but I wound up replacing EVERYTHING (including the evaporator) except the hoses and there was no sign of a orifice tube anywhere. The feedback from the customer is that the system is now blowing out ice cold air. Anyway, I believe the SOP (standard operating procedure) pretty much is to place the orifice tube in the condenser to ease service. But IMHO, having a expansion valve in front of the input port of the evaporator makes more sense.
What size of wrench did you used to remove the condenser hose ??? Am having problems removing mine 😡 thank you for the answer
You can use an adjustable wrench. Don't recall the size but its large. Be careful. Sometimes these flare nut threads may strip. May have to apply heat (propane torch) to get them loose.
Great video! Super helpful. Just a quick question, at time 1:51 you disconnect a line that runs along the bottom of the condenser. What is that line called & what is its purpose being connected?
I believe it's the ambient air temperature sensor which sends signals to the car's PCM (Power Train Control Module) to modulate optimum air/fuel mixture via the fuel injectors.
At 2:20 whats the first line you take off from the condenser? I have a ac line that is leaking from that same spot you took of the first condenser line, do you perhaps know what the ac line is called? Thanks!!
Input or Output, Supply or Return line.
You aren't really explaining the steps, a guy with experience knows what's up, but for the rest of us.....this left more questions than answers
www.popsautoelectric.com/auto-ac-basics/
This was helpful asf ...thanks
Glad it helped
Great video!! i have a new to me 98 that is missing the condenser, I purchased a new one but have no o-rings? Is that something I need to purchase separately? Where could I purchase them? Thanks again!!
Thanks! Just look up "auto ac o rings" in Amazon.
I put a new condenser and a new liquid hose but where they connect freon keeps leaking any suggestions to stop the leak? I tried the oem black o ring and the green ones but they still after having ac on for 40mins
It sounds like you've got defective replacement parts.
Very helpful. Thank you!
I have the same truck, can the condenser on these models be flushed or do they have to be replaced due to it having microchannels? I thought this was the case on much newer cars.
I've found flushing to be a waste of time. Better off replacing the condenser.
A huge help! Thanks
You bet!
How to undo the ac Line when they are stuck? Already sheared the upper line of and some part is stuck in the golden screw... dont want this happen on the lower one too. Any ideas?
Can apply heat to make the threads seperate
@@hardlymovingpro is a hot air blower strong enough?
No problem! Glad you liked it.
Great video with no wasted time! Much appreciated
Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey I need some help. By accident I disconnected the line to the condenser and it started hizzing. And connected back but my car blows hot air. Will a recharge work?
If there's still pressure in the line, then yes.
Need some info. For a 98 gmc k1500 5.0L v8 1/2 pickup so whats the difference of a non automatic adjusting orifice tube vs an adjustable orifice tube. Which is better cool and performance ?
Stay away from automatic adjusting orifice tubes! Went through holy hell trying to figure out why I was getting wild swings in low and high pressures working on a Crown Vic. When I replaced it with a cheapo $7 standard tube, everything starting working correctly!
You made it look easy. Just wondering, if this was not for a tutorial, would you have waited until A/c was completely changed/working before putting the grill back on? Great video.
No ... I wouldn't wait ... but it wouldn't hurt none if you did. Thanks for your post and support!
Yeah you can actually drive the truck without the grill. I am working on mine and haven't attached the hoses yet but wanted to drive it a bit to make sure I'd connected all the items it needs to be drivable. And I just taped the turn signal and parking lights to the bumper so they'd stay where they could be seen and drove a few miles like that.
Question whats the purpose of the thing in the middle of the condenser
You be the bracket for the horn?
@@hardlymovingpro so thats why my horn doesn’t work is disconnected
Really helpful thanks bro.
Glad it worked out for you!
@@hardlymovingpro just finished on my truck thanks FAM! SMASHED THAT 👍 AND 🛎
Congratulations!
do you add oil to the condensor before installing great video
You could but you can add the oil through the high pressure Quick Connect port. Pull vacuum from your low pressure Quick Connect Port , leave your high pressure port open and allow the oil to get sucked into the system.
@@hardlymovingpro ok thanks!!
@@hardlymovingpro can i add freon too
What can I do if the flare nut is slightly stripped?
If it can't maintain a good seal, replace the line.
Can the condenser be replaced wo losing the full refrigerant charge. I repalced all except the condenser and that was a mistake. Looks like its blocked.
Not possible to replace with a refrigerant charge. Had a similar problem and thought it was the condenser. Turned out to be the orifice tube.
@@hardlymovingpro but dont need to reload the oil correct? I'm gonna pull the condenser and recharge refrigerant.
1 additional oz of oil for the condenser replacement
I was going to just change the orifice tube but due to how tight the flange nuts were on the compressor I am now here.
They are tight.
@@hardlymovingpro yes and the tubing is very easily bent. So I had to be careful installing the new one.
Where do I get the ac pressure release tool from
Suggest you go to a auto repair shop that can recover your refrigerant.
@@hardlymovingpro truck doesn't run trying to remove motor
great video in description. This helped out a ton. I have a 99 Chevy Express 1500 Conversion Van, is the orfice tube located in the same location?
Yes ... the orifice tube is in the same location.
@@hardlymovingpro thank so much sir
@@Biggtruckin No problem! Good Luck with the repair!
To support this channel and to get notifications of new tips and tutorials videos, please subscribe.
Is the installation process similar for a 2000 2500 Express with a 4.3 vortec?
What specific tool combo were you using? Looking for a nice reliable tool like you used on this video!
Are you referring to the electric 3/8 impact gun? If so, it's a Milwaukee M12 3/8" impact gun.
@@hardlymovingpro yes, appreciate it
You wouldn’t happen to have part numbers for these items would you? I’ll be doing this exact job later this month.
Here's a Denso condenser that fits a C1500 Suburban, Tahoe, Escalade and Yukon from '96 to 99. amzn.to/2BoqFmq
Brian Fortin thanks, but I’ve removed the grill plenty of times. Actually changing parts of the front end next weekend. Passenger finder, and radiator support to be exact.
Outstanding!
Thanks for your comment and support!
Do you know why my 99 tahoe heater core is hot but the vents are warm not fully hot ?
Could be your blend door actuator motor stopped working.
@@hardlymovingpro its works fine when i switch it to cold it just disent get fully hot
Heater core could be clogged. Remove the two hoses on the firewall and use water pressure from a garden hose to blow out any debris.
@@hardlymovingpro why does my a/c compressor has white dots on it like salt or snow flakes ?
Aluminum corrosion
I was told to fix this at the shop was over 800 dollars 💸
That's about right. Auto AC repair is not cheap. A lot of mechanics don't know the basics of AC repair so they tend to avoid doing the repair; hence the high repair estimates even though it doesn't take long to do the repair and the parts are relatively cheap.
Did u add any oil to the condenser
Yes ... in the compressor replacement video.
Hardly Moving Productions so u can just fill the compressor up with oil and u don’t have to fill the condenser separate
Just 1 oz in the compressor
@@hardlymovingpro ............my compressor was bad , metal shavings in compressor and orfice tube changed out condenser, compressor and accumulator/dryer. blew out system 4 times until clear, getting high pressure , condenser getting real hot, charged OK , everything checks out , even tested the fan clutch at the radiator figuring it wasnt sucking the heat from the condenser out. checks out OK radiator and condenser clear of debris. put water hose on condensor and let it run................/A/C working great, turn of water hose condenser heats up again and warm air in truck, it's a 1994 1/2 ton 4x4 Silverado. 350 CU. I'm lost as of now...Also have good flow on my water pump to cool radiator. dont know where to turn.
@@tommiller6580 If both your low and high side pressures are high, you may have too much oil in the system and/or the orifice tube got clogged up. Replace the orifice tube with a new one and see what happens. Had a similar problem with a Crown Vic that was driving me nuts! Low side pressure over 80 and high side over 350. The compressor was constantly switching on and off. Blew out the excess oil from the evaporator, and replaced the accumulator. No change. Then replaced the orifice tube. That fixed it!
What sizes are the wrench to remove the ac line?
Don't recall ... but you can always use an adjustable wrench.
What was the fault on that condenser?
Good practice to replace with a defective compressor. Internals can have blockages that can't be cleaned out. Other reason is leakage. Cannot be fixed.
what kind of pag oil did you use in it?
PAG46
Some require pag 150... does it depend on the compressor??
You have to check out the specs of the compressor.
what if i just dont put a new one in. i just want to remove it while i have it all apart. i dont care about the ac. my compressor is gone anyways. i wont have any problems if i run it without the ac condenser will i?
Sure ... No problem not having a condenser
@@hardlymovingpro thank you
@@maggotdrum You bet!
this comment section has so much information its crazy lmao
Lots of DIY shade tree mechanics out there!
The way you vented that freon is a violation of federal law. Most parts stores and garages will evacuate the system properly for very little money, or even free.
What federal law ... the R12 ozone law?
@@hardlymovingpro
www.epa.gov/mvac/epa-regulatory-requirements-mvac-system-servicing
Good to know
ok Karen if you don't like it don't watch it and take your little prius to a shop you can afford and quit making the rest of us sweat. all i hope is when sweat runs in my eyes and i can see then crash into somebody its a karen so there will be one less of them
All of these poor schmoes watching this video and thinking "I CAN HANDLE THIS JOB"... Sure, you might be able to - but it sucks, is very difficult, and you'd better be prepared for HELL. (been there done that.) Let a pro do it! One (or even ten) video does not make anyone a "pro" at doing A/C work!
Not offense, but based on my past observations, some people have neither the patience or aptitude to do auto repair. They're better suited to office work.
Outstanding!
Thanks!