well done young man , and thank you for answering the many questions that people had , I am 71 years young and still have my 91 GMC short box and still do my own work , thank you again .
Love how deliberate and clear your instructions are for each step. Most people probably have a very limited understanding of how an A/C system works. So without clear instruction it's easy to get confused and make mistakes. Thank you for doing this!
I was telling my wife this was the most through and well done ac video I have ever seen. Then you stopped at reading the gauges and went off only the weight. Well kudos upto that point.
Dude, you are the BEST instructor ever. No silly background music. No fluff. No opinions. Just facts and sharing the skills so many people need for survival. Thanks and praise.
Just a NOTE worthy note. When connecting the hoses to the ports High and Low, to open the system, the knobs need to be rotated clockwise which presses on the Schrader valve to OPEN the system and counterclockwise to close the system.
Thank you so much for doing it step by step. I was not going to change my condenser but your video just made me do it. Pulling vacuum as I'm typing. My 1988 gmc will have ac today. You rock 100% support your videos.
Great video! I was able to completely rebuild and retrofit the ac system in my 1990 silverado k1500 by the Grace of God and the how to knowledge shown here. Thank you! Keep it up!!
This video walk through really helped me with my 94 C1500. I ended up replacing everything except the evaporator behind the dash. Took me 6 hours in all, but saved me loads of money! I tried to remove the old orifice to see what it was like, and I couldn't even pull it out of the condenser. I cut the tube area in half and it was plugged up! No wonder the system failed! No flow! The only difference in the way I had to recharge mine and the recharge shown here is that the Freon canisters today have a resealable can, which in the video has the old style piercing valve. After I vacuumed the system and closing the quick connections at High and Low ports being careful not to allow any air back in the system. I had to recharge mine through the Low pressure port as if topping it off. Remember YOU MUST PURGE the short hose while connecting to the port to prevent air back in the system. The vacuum in the system took about 2 cans before I needed to start the truck. You must burnish the shaft/clutch when you start it up. If there is enough Freon in the system to engage the clutch during start up, the instructions indicate turning the AC on/off at least a dozen times to burnish the clutch shaft. Then I proceeded to put the remaining Freon in the system. So the back story to my situation here is the first compressor I bought from Auto Zone went bad! After about 3 days driving and a couple hour drive to camp for the weekend, the bearing was squealing like a banshee! I ended up changing it out and returned for warranty replacement. What a PIA! Fingers crossed! So far still cold! Thank you again for this video. Like many DIY'ers, we just need that reassurance sometimes that we are on the right track in doing the project.
HotRodRico: Burnishing the clutch surface is a short process by engaging (on/off) the AC so the new clutch shaft surfaces are, if you will, mated, sanded or polished by the short on/ off intervals. This assures the surfaces have even contact across the clutch shaft for optimun performance. Hope this explaination helps.
I have a 92 K2500 with 6.2 Detriot that did not come with an AC system from the factodirection. Previous owner lived in Cananda and did not need AC. I live in North Florida and DEFINITELY need AC! I had no idea what all I would need to do to install one, but this definitely steers me in the right direction.
I Have watched a couple of your videos, and they are very helpful. I have a 1988 short bed 350, 700 r4 that I have owned since 1998. It is a good truck ,but I could have done a better job of keeping it up. With your help I am going to restore it .
I watched this about 10 times and used it as reference during the job. Thank you so much for the detailed steps and parts list. You’ve saved the obs community thousands of $$$. You need a qr code on your vid so i can venmo you some cash for a cold beer. Thanks!
Also for the benefit of your viewers, there were 2 slightly different setups in 1990. Unlike yours, mine had a slightly different condenser and a two piece liquid line which houses the orifice tube right at the joint in the two liquid lines. I highly recommend converting it to the condenser that houses the orifice tube and replace the liquid line with the version that you used. I had already installed the condenser only to discover that the orifice housing had been bulged inward, likely from corrosion buildup between the nut and line. I couldn't even get the old orifice out. I had to call GM to get a part number for that line and found that it was discontinued with no available aftermarket replacement. I'm sure that the parts house would have taken the condenser back in exchange for orificed version, but I had already reinstalled the grille. Fortunately, I was able to restore the end of that liquid line to its original shape using a large tapered punch and successfully flush the line and replace the orifice tube.
Thank you. This is terrific. I had no idea whether or not I'd be even capable of doing this sort of job. I'm glad I looked it up. Now I'm quite sure that I can do it. And so.....maybe I'll get my A/C back. I'm unlikely to pay a pro to do it. There are better things to spend that money on. But I just might do it myself now.
BTW my 90 silverado k1500 originally had the 1st design system in it and the knowledge in this video helped me to convert to the 2nd design which is much easier to find parts for. Thanks again!!
Can you please tell me how expensive parts and work was? Or, guesstimate on the number of mechanic hours to complete? I'm considering replacing the entire system on my 89 g20 van. Thank you!
Nicely done. I've used this video a lot while rebuilding my entire HVAC system in my 1995 Chevy Silverado. I went way further. I removed my dash and rebuilt my air box. That would be a good video to have.
Great Video. You are a savior! I’m putting together a 1993 Chevy k1500 Blazer and I was lost on where to go with replacing the AC system. Very clear and exact video! You’ve got a new subscriber.
Very professional. Really appreciate watching someone that knows what they're doing. Hav 1 question, I was planning on reusing original compresser and evaporater. Is there any problems with that. Have new dryer condenser,and new lines. It's a 1991 5.0 with 2cnd design. Thanks Rick
You were lucky. I'm replacing the entire dual HVAC system on a ,93 GMC Suburban and replacing all the lines for the rear ac heater unit. All the steel fittings on the aluminum lines were frozen solid and I twisted the ones on the condenser and the rest evaporator. I put so much torque on the evaporator nut it deformed it! I found a heavy duty hose kit that eliminates all the corroded metal lines underneath the truck. This is not an easy or clean job as old nasty coolant and refrigerant oil and green dye running down your arms as your cutting the old lines out from under the truck.
I replaced the evaporator core. It turns out that I had to remove the dash after all. It wasn't too bad. Anyhow, I vacuumed the system but waited to charge it until I got a retrofit low pressure switch. I figured that your 3 can weights should be really close so I used two full cans and my two partials from my previous attempts. I had already returned the manifold tool so I used the little screw on tool with a trigger and built in gauge. It turns out that the trigger was going bad so I had keep repeatedly squeezing it to get it all dispensed. I called my wife to pick up a new one and another can of r 134 as she was on her way home from work. I figured I still needed about two ounces but when I hooked up the next can with the new properly functioning dispenser and gauge, it showed 55 lbs of pressure so I didn't give it any more. It's definitely functioning well now, but I feel like it could be a tinge cooler. Can you go by the pressure? The 55 psi is in the yellow part of the gauge. Does that mean it's slightly overcharged?
good job on the video. One thing I noticed is the orifice tube was installed backwards. I believe the side with the smaller screen is supposed to be inserted first.
Yeah I just did a R134a compressor on my 94 S10 blazer last week and man what a different I used a new AC Delco R134a compressor and it does make a difference on what compressor you use.don't use a cheap aftermarket compressor.
You may not have one, we have had a couple of people comment that their truck was not equipped with a high pressure switch. I would install the system the same way it was from the factory in your case.
Very helpful, currently working on my a/c. Same model truck. With a completely new and dry system. How many Oz of peg oil is needed. I can't seem to find a solid answer on this. Thanks.
Why does my 94 have the standard r134 fill connect I've been trying too get my ac going but my clutch won't engage I thought it was bc it was outta freon so I tried filling it it read empty and when I squeezed the trigger it went too over filled but I didn't hardly put any freon in lol
The only reason I was looking at this video was to find the trick to take the compressor rat without removing the clutch. That was cleverly bypassed, and the hard part of the job was already done clutch on this one we're working with is rusted and frozen I guess I'll cut the bolts.
What color are the wires that are in the connector that goes on the front of the compressor? Trying to reinstall AC in my 91 after it was previously gutted. Unfortunately none of the wires were labeled.
Whats up thanks for the resourceful video, i was able to install the ac, but i had a question the next day after the install i turn on the ac and it leaked all the ac gas, im assuming i probably didn’t connect the ac pressure switch cables right. One has a letter A and another B, can you let me know which one is power and the other ground? Please and thanks in advance.
I can't seem to find any information about what "part" the line from the dryer leading into the fire wall at the beginning of the video is... I plan on replacing everything you did in this video, but I couldn't help but be curious as to what it is.
I need your help!!! The spacer you used on the ac line I didn’t see the part number in the description .. and is it completely necessary, I bought a new ac delco one that came with two black washers , do I need the green one?
Our compressor came with all of the washers, here is a link to the washer kit. You will need the washer if you are following our video. www.sherco-auto.com/5-piece-ac-manifold-compressor-sealing-washer-kit-for-gm-compressors.html
I feel like I gotta do the same thing with my 98 Sonoma possibly at least I think tho probably look at it some more see if I need to do more than I think. If that makes sense lol.
When switching cans like your second one turn your needle down all the way that way when you remove the can the hose gets no air then screw on second can with needle piercing can
Great DIY vid. Now subscribed, but with a question. Every step was quite clear and well explained but video time lapsed forward at the point where refrigerant cans had to be swapped during the fill process. So, my question is: Are the lines (valves) left open or are they closed as each new can of refrigerant is connected to be drawn into the system?
Very thorough. Wondering if I missed something though. What is the process for changing refrigerant canisters? Is it a repeat of the process shown in the video, or is there another process?
I really appreciate your videos. However, on my 1990 GMC c1500 (that I bought new) the accumulator tube GM part 15669969 has galvonic corroded itself to the evaporator and there seems to be a leak at the fitting that is impossible to remove. Thinking the o-ring is bad, but since I have searched every parts source and salvage lot with no help on locating one, I now have replaced everything like you did and flushed the evaporator but will not hold a vacuum. Any thoughts on where to find the A/C accumulator tube that was used on all GM 1988-1991 pickups?
Hey brother....I love watching your vidz......What is your first name...?? Im Steve...I have a 1988 K 1500 4x4 The Off Road Edition half ton with a beefed up suspension....Why does your engine compartment look like its brand new cuz mine looks old and grungy....lol.....My AC hasnt worked in about 6 years,,,, but thats about to change cuz youve inspired me that I can do this job myself Ive got all the parts except im just waiting on the lquid line and the condensor to come in....this truck is going to my nephew when I pass and I want it to blow ice cubes for him. Thanks and PEACE Brother
I’m terribly grateful for your video, I’m going to do the entire system on my 91 454 Silverado, I do plan to reuse my lines and just to assure myself, you’d recommend using the “pro flush” on all reused components? And blowing out residue with compressed air? Thank you sir
@@SuburbanRanch it’s odd, I searched all the same part numbers you’ve used and everything stated it was compatible with my 91 k3500 7.4L tbi vehicle except the A/C hose, so I figured if my original hoses and lines aren’t damaged or have holes, just to flush them and use the green O rings and dab some pag oil on them and run it
@@SuburbanRanch do you know if the pressure switch is universal on the s header valve side? Seeing that we’re going from r12- r134a I look up the switch and it says not compatible with my vehicle. I’m thinking as long as the 2pin connector fits and the a schrader valve fits then it’s fine
So I did this twice, the first time I didn’t add oil and the ac lines got cold and the second time I did add oil to all the same things you did and now non of the lines get cold and the ac doesn’t work, what can I do to fix it?
Ken Moore - again. I am trying to convert my 87 GMC R1500 pickup. The old or original R4 it did not have the high pressure switch as your 88 does. So the video shows you with a one wire that you are switching to the two wire required. So have searched the internet for days but nothing shown on where or how to wire the hi pressure cut out switch. So wondering if I can use a dual hi/lo switch on accumulator, but what do I do with the hi pressure switch in the R4, your video shows the low pressure connector going back on the compressor clutch switch. So my dilemna is what do I do with the hi pressure wiring. I know one goes to the ground but where is the other wire supposed to go? Thanks, Enjoy your videos
I'm in the same dilemma...'93 sierra.reading comments I see there are several that do not have a wire for HP switch. May I ask what you ended up doing with yours?
Hello Thank you very much for the wonderful video I still wanted to ask, I have a 1989 G20 with a rear air conditioning unit as well, I saw that you put a total of 8oz of oil, do I need to put more oil in my system because there is also a rear unit Thanks
😂 I can't get any of the high side R 12 to 134 adapters from the parts store to screw onto the R ,12 high side fitting. It's supposed to be a 3/8ths 24 th threads per in. But it's very difficult to screw on like it is the thread is metric or is course thread. I. Bought 4 kits and none of them had a high side fitting that would work. No problem with the low side
I have a 93 Chevy obs step side , and I want to say all though I’m a little bit slower learner I feel like I can do mines with perfection just like you an do save thousands of unnecessary spent dollars, could you give me a list of things I should replace before starting this project so I don’t run into any problems I really want to replace any thing that could leak I had it checked once and the guy told and showed me exactly what was leaking but I can’t remember the name
Hi, the short extension you used on the compressor line {6559423} I can't locate. Can you please tell me where you purchased the short extension part. I have put the number in at Rock Auto and it doesn't recognize.
The extension came with the compressor kit. The part number I gave you was from the instructions in the kit. The part number for the compressor should be in the video description. Hope that helps, not sure where you can buy just the extension
I did this on my 90 without the benefit of this video. I added all 8 ounces of oil directly to the compressor and am now having trouble getting the system to take any more than 6 ounces of r134. I also didn't realize the need to retrofit the low pressure switch on the dryer. Do I need to disassemble and redistribute the oil? Or can I just replace the low pressure switch? It seems like it's building too much pressure on the low side. (Boy I wish I'd found this video earlier. I've had such trouble finding information for this year and you seem to have it all- even the washers and extension for the compressor ports. I used two greens with a machine bushing and o ring on the one side to even them.)
@@SuburbanRanch yes it kicks on for very brief spurts and then shuts off. I'm a little concerned about the evaporator core. When I flushed it out with compressed air the flow seemed rather restricted. I'm not sure if that's just a normal part of air travelling through those small passages. I tried charging with one of those trigger operated screw on tools and the gauge quickly went into the red. Also, I vacuumed the system but quickly disconnected at the ports while the vacuum was running because the seals in the hoses of the loaner manifold tool were shot and wouldn't hold the seal. (That's why I didn't just charge it through the manifold toll)
I just researched your evaporator core flush sequence. In retrospect, mine definitely did not flow that freely, it just trickled out when forced by compressed air. I went ahead and order a new one. I'll let you know how it turns out. I found another video on how to replace it without removing the dash.
Hey I bought everything you listed and I am going to do the complete change out like you did. Question: do you know what the size and length of the ac compressor bolts? My truck is missing these bolts. I bought it with the bypass pulley on it.
I feel like you left out a few things at the end like do you close low port valve between changes of cans and how much psi do we need total and is it possible to allow more air into system if we drain the can too much
Where do I get the Accumulator mounted R-134a Low side switch and part number. Have looked online to no avail. I'm converting 87 GMC pickup and have ordered all the parts except can't find this part. This is an excellent presentation and thanks for posting this. Thanks KM
well done young man , and thank you for answering the many questions that people had , I am 71 years young and still have my 91 GMC short box and still do my own work , thank you again .
Love how deliberate and clear your instructions are for each step. Most people probably have a very limited understanding of how an A/C system works. So without clear instruction it's easy to get confused and make mistakes. Thank you for doing this!
Probably one of the best tutorial educational automotive videos I’ve watched yet. Answered so many questions in just this one video.
I was telling my wife this was the most through and well done ac video I have ever seen. Then you stopped at reading the gauges and went off only the weight. Well kudos upto that point.
Dude, you are the BEST instructor ever.
No silly background music. No fluff. No opinions.
Just facts and sharing the skills so many people need for survival.
Thanks and praise.
Just a NOTE worthy note. When connecting the hoses to the ports High and Low, to open the system, the knobs need to be rotated clockwise which presses on the Schrader valve to OPEN the system and counterclockwise to close the system.
Thank you so much for doing it step by step. I was not going to change my condenser but your video just made me do it. Pulling vacuum as I'm typing. My 1988 gmc will have ac today. You rock 100% support your videos.
How was ot?
It was easy not hard at all @MOE13576
Great video! I was able to completely rebuild and retrofit the ac system in my 1990 silverado k1500 by the Grace of God and the how to knowledge shown here. Thank you! Keep it up!!
This video walk through really helped me with my 94 C1500. I ended up replacing everything except the evaporator behind the dash. Took me 6 hours in all, but saved me loads of money! I tried to remove the old orifice to see what it was like, and I couldn't even pull it out of the condenser. I cut the tube area in half and it was plugged up! No wonder the system failed! No flow! The only difference in the way I had to recharge mine and the recharge shown here is that the Freon canisters today have a resealable can, which in the video has the old style piercing valve. After I vacuumed the system and closing the quick connections at High and Low ports being careful not to allow any air back in the system. I had to recharge mine through the Low pressure port as if topping it off. Remember YOU MUST PURGE the short hose while connecting to the port to prevent air back in the system. The vacuum in the system took about 2 cans before I needed to start the truck. You must burnish the shaft/clutch when you start it up. If there is enough Freon in the system to engage the clutch during start up, the instructions indicate turning the AC on/off at least a dozen times to burnish the clutch shaft. Then I proceeded to put the remaining Freon in the system. So the back story to my situation here is the first compressor I bought from Auto Zone went bad! After about 3 days driving and a couple hour drive to camp for the weekend, the bearing was squealing like a banshee! I ended up changing it out and returned for warranty replacement. What a PIA! Fingers crossed! So far still cold! Thank you again for this video. Like many DIY'ers, we just need that reassurance sometimes that we are on the right track in doing the project.
what does burnish the clutch shaft mean ? thanks ahead of time
HotRodRico: Burnishing the clutch surface is a short process by engaging (on/off) the AC so the new clutch shaft surfaces are, if you will, mated, sanded or polished by the short on/ off intervals. This assures the surfaces have even contact across the clutch shaft for optimun performance. Hope this explaination helps.
I have a 92 K2500 with 6.2 Detriot that did not come with an AC system from the factodirection. Previous owner lived in Cananda and did not need AC. I live in North Florida and DEFINITELY need AC! I had no idea what all I would need to do to install one, but this definitely steers me in the right direction.
If you don’t have factory a/c, you will also need to add the wiring and under dash components. It would be a big job.
Awesome video 👍 just finished redoing my entire A/C system with new parts thanks to your video.
One of the clearest and easy to understand video's i have seen...thank you...
I Have watched a couple of your videos, and they are very helpful. I have a 1988 short bed 350, 700 r4 that I have owned since 1998. It is a good truck ,but I could have done a better job of keeping it up. With your help I am going to restore it .
I watched this about 10 times and used it as reference during the job. Thank you so much for the detailed steps and parts list. You’ve saved the obs community thousands of $$$. You need a qr code on your vid so i can venmo you some cash for a cold beer. Thanks!
Also for the benefit of your viewers, there were 2 slightly different setups in 1990. Unlike yours, mine had a slightly different condenser and a two piece liquid line which houses the orifice tube right at the joint in the two liquid lines. I highly recommend converting it to the condenser that houses the orifice tube and replace the liquid line with the version that you used. I had already installed the condenser only to discover that the orifice housing had been bulged inward, likely from corrosion buildup between the nut and line. I couldn't even get the old orifice out. I had to call GM to get a part number for that line and found that it was discontinued with no available aftermarket replacement. I'm sure that the parts house would have taken the condenser back in exchange for orificed version, but I had already reinstalled the grille. Fortunately, I was able to restore the end of that liquid line to its original shape using a large tapered punch and successfully flush the line and replace the orifice tube.
Thank you. This is terrific. I had no idea whether or not I'd be even capable of doing this sort of job. I'm glad I looked it up. Now I'm quite sure that I can do it. And so.....maybe I'll get my A/C back.
I'm unlikely to pay a pro to do it. There are better things to spend that money on. But I just might do it myself now.
Thanks. I've looked at a few videos. This is a compliment, I truly appreciate your shade tree knowledge! It was easy for me follow .
Would be nice to see the new system run! Use a thermometer to see how cold the air comes out.
Wow Great Job! I am ready to do my 1988 Chevy C1500, Well after my nap and getting the parts. I'm only 83.
What a supreme video! Easiest video to follow ever!!!
Best video I've seen ever doing a ac system..Thanks a million
BTW my 90 silverado k1500 originally had the 1st design system in it and the knowledge in this video helped me to convert to the 2nd design which is much easier to find parts for. Thanks again!!
Just changed out my 1989 GMC 1500 AC. Your video was a great help. Thank you.
Can you please tell me how expensive parts and work was? Or, guesstimate on the number of mechanic hours to complete? I'm considering replacing the entire system on my 89 g20 van. Thank you!
Thanks you , awesome video !!!!!!
Thank you sooo much for the thuro and to the point instructions. All how to s should be exactly like this . Thank you again
Nicely done. I've used this video a lot while rebuilding my entire HVAC system in my 1995 Chevy Silverado. I went way further. I removed my dash and rebuilt my air box. That would be a good video to have.
Great Video. You are a savior! I’m putting together a 1993 Chevy k1500 Blazer and I was lost on where to go with replacing the AC system. Very clear and exact video! You’ve got a new subscriber.
Great explanation it was very clear and concise! I wish more explained things as well as you did.
Great video I’m going to try to replace my ac system as soon as my parts come in
You sir,have the best video out there on this!!! I'm currently doing a '93 sierra!
Great video I have all of the same parts to go on my 1988 K1500. This is just what I needed, Thanks, PH
Excellent video!
Thank u for ur guidance it was spot on except I don’t have the high pressure valve wire for the AC. Could u tell me what I could do.
I think this little guy could fix anything!
Very professional. Really appreciate watching someone that knows what they're doing. Hav 1 question, I was planning on reusing original compresser and evaporater. Is there any problems with that. Have new dryer condenser,and new lines. It's a 1991 5.0 with 2cnd design. Thanks Rick
Thanks for a killer video! Can’t wait to have cold ac!
You were lucky. I'm replacing the entire dual HVAC system on a ,93 GMC Suburban and replacing all the lines for the rear ac heater unit. All the steel fittings on the aluminum lines were frozen solid and I twisted the ones on the condenser and the rest evaporator. I put so much torque on the evaporator nut it deformed it! I found a heavy duty hose kit that eliminates all the corroded metal lines underneath the truck. This is not an easy or clean job as old nasty coolant and refrigerant oil and green dye running down your arms as your cutting the old lines out from under the truck.
I replaced the evaporator core. It turns out that I had to remove the dash after all. It wasn't too bad. Anyhow, I vacuumed the system but waited to charge it until I got a retrofit low pressure switch. I figured that your 3 can weights should be really close so I used two full cans and my two partials from my previous attempts. I had already returned the manifold tool so I used the little screw on tool with a trigger and built in gauge. It turns out that the trigger was going bad so I had keep repeatedly squeezing it to get it all dispensed. I called my wife to pick up a new one and another can of r 134 as she was on her way home from work. I figured I still needed about two ounces but when I hooked up the next can with the new properly functioning dispenser and gauge, it showed 55 lbs of pressure so I didn't give it any more. It's definitely functioning well now, but I feel like it could be a tinge cooler. Can you go by the pressure? The 55 psi is in the yellow part of the gauge. Does that mean it's slightly overcharged?
55 psi on the low side with the compressor running is a bit high
So I should probably bleed a little off?
Good video, but wearing safety glasses when working on AC systems is always wise.
good job on the video. One thing I noticed is the orifice tube was installed backwards. I believe the side with the smaller screen is supposed to be inserted first.
@Louis It is installed correctly, the same way as the original was.
Definitely coming back to this video!
Yeah I just did a R134a compressor on my 94 S10 blazer last week and man what a different I used a new AC Delco R134a compressor and it does make a difference on what compressor you use.don't use a cheap aftermarket compressor.
Great video. I am going to follow this as if it were my bible. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Great video !
Excellent advice and video! Thanks very much.
Great video! But u need some loom for them exposed wires and also will make it look cleaner😊
Great instructional video sir. For the high pressure switch I'm wondering where the original lead comes from. Mine is completely missing
You may not have one, we have had a couple of people comment that their truck was not equipped with a high pressure switch. I would install the system the same way it was from the factory in your case.
@@SuburbanRanch ok thanks, I'll give it a whirl!
Mine too!
Same here. My '92 5.7L Silverado has no high-pressure switch on the compressor.
Awesome job on the instructions! Thanks
Need a video on replacing both power steering lines, mine got crushed in recent crash…
Why not show operating pressures and vent temp?
Oh and open the garage door for ventilation
@tgt004 The second garage door was open, it was cold outside so no vent temps on this video
Very helpful, currently working on my a/c. Same model truck. With a completely new and dry system. How many Oz of peg oil is needed. I can't seem to find a solid answer on this. Thanks.
8 oz I believe. Should be the same as what we did in the video.
Why does my 94 have the standard r134 fill connect I've been trying too get my ac going but my clutch won't engage I thought it was bc it was outta freon so I tried filling it it read empty and when I squeezed the trigger it went too over filled but I didn't hardly put any freon in lol
@18:40. I use a bench vise for any pressing of components like that, works great
Nice video. Do you have to flush if it's the same refrigerant as old
AWESOME STUFF! Thank you!!
The only reason I was looking at this video was to find the trick to take the compressor rat without removing the clutch. That was cleverly bypassed, and the hard part of the job was already done clutch on this one we're working with is rusted and frozen I guess I'll cut the bolts.
If I had to fix a leak would it be necessary to add oil to the system as well when recharging it? Amazing video, wish I'd had it a year ago lol.
You can add back in a little bit of oil
Very well done.
When adding oil to the compressor os it necessary to rotate?
excellent job
What color are the wires that are in the connector that goes on the front of the compressor? Trying to reinstall AC in my 91 after it was previously gutted. Unfortunately none of the wires were labeled.
Whats up thanks for the resourceful video, i was able to install the ac, but i had a question the next day after the install i turn on the ac and it leaked all the ac gas, im assuming i probably didn’t connect the ac pressure switch cables right. One has a letter A and another B, can you let me know which one is power and the other ground? Please and thanks in advance.
I can't seem to find any information about what "part" the line from the dryer leading into the fire wall at the beginning of the video is...
I plan on replacing everything you did in this video, but I couldn't help but be curious as to what it is.
Thanks for posting this video, so when can I drop off my 454SS? 😆
I need your help!!! The spacer you used on the ac line I didn’t see the part number in the description .. and is it completely necessary, I bought a new ac delco one that came with two black washers , do I need the green one?
Part number four seasons 24342
Our compressor came with all of the washers, here is a link to the washer kit. You will need the washer if you are following our video. www.sherco-auto.com/5-piece-ac-manifold-compressor-sealing-washer-kit-for-gm-compressors.html
I feel like I gotta do the same thing with my 98 Sonoma possibly at least I think tho probably look at it some more see if I need to do more than I think. If that makes sense lol.
Enjoy your videos
When switching cans like your second one turn your needle down all the way that way when you remove the can the hose gets no air then screw on second can with needle piercing can
Great job
Thanks
Great DIY vid. Now subscribed, but with a question. Every step was quite clear and well explained but video time lapsed forward at the point where refrigerant cans had to be swapped during the fill process. So, my question is: Are the lines (valves) left open or are they closed as each new can of refrigerant is connected to be drawn into the system?
Close the valves between cans and purge the air before opening them back up.
Will the condenser used on this truck and lines work on a 1988 gmc?
Very thorough. Wondering if I missed something though. What is the process for changing refrigerant canisters? Is it a repeat of the process shown in the video, or is there another process?
Yes. Repeat the process we show for each can.
I really appreciate your videos. However, on my 1990 GMC c1500 (that I bought new) the accumulator tube GM part 15669969 has galvonic corroded itself to the evaporator and there seems to be a leak at the fitting that is impossible to remove. Thinking the o-ring is bad, but since I have searched every parts source and salvage lot with no help on locating one, I now have replaced everything like you did and flushed the evaporator but will not hold a vacuum. Any thoughts on where to find the A/C accumulator tube that was used on all GM 1988-1991 pickups?
Going to have to find one at a salvage yard, these parts just aren’t available anymore.
Thank you for the video. I was wondering what made you decide not to change the Evaporator Core?
I did not want to remove the dash
The bottom ac suction hose how does it connection it my connection is smooth with no threads
Was the yellow sealing washer a pain to get on
Doing r12 to 134a conversion you post to use 20% less 134a than what it called for on r12. Because 134a runs higher head pressure than r12
The conversion formula is as follows: (R12 Charge Specification x 0.9) - 0.25 lbs. = R134a Charge Level
Good stuff
Hey brother....I love watching your vidz......What is your first name...?? Im Steve...I have a 1988 K 1500 4x4 The Off Road Edition half ton with a beefed up suspension....Why does your engine compartment look like its brand new cuz mine looks old and grungy....lol.....My AC hasnt worked in about 6 years,,,, but thats about to change cuz youve inspired me that I can do this job myself Ive got all the parts except im just waiting on the lquid line and the condensor to come in....this truck is going to my nephew when I pass and I want it to blow ice cubes for him. Thanks and PEACE Brother
Came acroos your videos this weekend. Very well done. Definitely
answered a few questions I had. What site do you use to get your parts?
Rockauto for most of the parts
I’m terribly grateful for your video, I’m going to do the entire system on my 91 454 Silverado, I do plan to reuse my lines and just to assure myself, you’d recommend using the “pro flush” on all reused components? And blowing out residue with compressed air? Thank you sir
Yep!
@@SuburbanRanch it’s odd, I searched all the same part numbers you’ve used and everything stated it was compatible with my 91 k3500 7.4L tbi vehicle except the A/C hose, so I figured if my original hoses and lines aren’t damaged or have holes, just to flush them and use the green O rings and dab some pag oil on them and run it
@@SuburbanRanch do you know if the pressure switch is universal on the s header valve side? Seeing that we’re going from r12- r134a I look up the switch and it says not compatible with my vehicle. I’m thinking as long as the 2pin connector fits and the a schrader valve fits then it’s fine
@mikeymerrett I would buy the pressure valve recommended for your truck. Each year might have small differences.
@@SuburbanRanch the recommended valve is for r12, I found a suitable r134a valve that threads on and plugs in just fine
So I did this twice, the first time I didn’t add oil and the ac lines got cold and the second time I did add oil to all the same things you did and now non of the lines get cold and the ac doesn’t work, what can I do to fix it?
Ken Moore - again. I am trying to convert my 87 GMC R1500 pickup. The old or original R4 it did not have the high pressure switch as your 88 does. So the video shows you with a one wire that you are switching to the two wire required. So have searched the internet for days but nothing shown on where or how to wire the hi pressure cut out switch. So wondering if I can use a dual hi/lo switch on accumulator, but what do I do with the hi pressure switch in the R4, your video shows the low pressure connector going back on the compressor clutch switch. So my dilemna is what do I do with the hi pressure wiring. I know one goes to the ground but where is the other wire supposed to go?
Thanks, Enjoy your videos
@Ken Moore I’m not familiar with the 87. If the system did not originally have a high pressure switch, why bother adding one?
I'm in the same dilemma...'93 sierra.reading comments I see there are several that do not have a wire for HP switch. May I ask what you ended up doing with yours?
Hello
Thank you very much for the wonderful video
I still wanted to ask, I have a 1989 G20 with a rear air conditioning unit as well,
I saw that you put a total of 8oz of oil, do I need to put more oil in my system because there is also a rear unit
Thanks
Sorry, I’m not sure on that.
😂 I can't get any of the high side R 12 to 134 adapters from the parts store to screw onto the R ,12 high side fitting. It's supposed to be a 3/8ths 24 th threads per in. But it's very difficult to screw on like it is the thread is metric or is course thread. I. Bought 4 kits and none of them had a high side fitting that would work. No problem with the low side
It's on a 93 Subarban
Might need to replace the line, sounds like it has a bad thread
I have a 93 Chevy obs step side , and I want to say all though I’m a little bit slower learner I feel like I can do mines with perfection just like you an do save thousands of unnecessary spent dollars, could you give me a list of things I should replace before starting this project so I don’t run into any problems I really want to replace any thing that could leak I had it checked once and the guy told and showed me exactly what was leaking but I can’t remember the name
When I’m doing the flush, nothing comes from the bottom port, what does that mean?
Muy buena la explicacion gracia
What's the name of the electrical connection in the rear of the AC compressor
High pressure switch.
What if I don’t have the valve for the can all I have is the connection for the low side with a gauge for the Freon
part number153912 line doesn't come with high pressure port... what's the correct line PN?
Hi, the short extension you used on the compressor line {6559423} I can't locate. Can you please tell me where you purchased the short extension part. I have put the number in at Rock Auto and it doesn't recognize.
The extension came with the compressor kit. The part number I gave you was from the instructions in the kit. The part number for the compressor should be in the video description. Hope that helps, not sure where you can buy just the extension
@@SuburbanRanch Thank You, I may need to machine one
I did this on my 90 without the benefit of this video. I added all 8 ounces of oil directly to the compressor and am now having trouble getting the system to take any more than 6 ounces of r134. I also didn't realize the need to retrofit the low pressure switch on the dryer. Do I need to disassemble and redistribute the oil? Or can I just replace the low pressure switch? It seems like it's building too much pressure on the low side. (Boy I wish I'd found this video earlier. I've had such trouble finding information for this year and you seem to have it all- even the washers and extension for the compressor ports. I used two greens with a machine bushing and o ring on the one side to even them.)
I don’t think you need to disassemble at this point. Is the compressor running when you are trying to fill?
@@SuburbanRanch yes it kicks on for very brief spurts and then shuts off. I'm a little concerned about the evaporator core. When I flushed it out with compressed air the flow seemed rather restricted. I'm not sure if that's just a normal part of air travelling through those small passages. I tried charging with one of those trigger operated screw on tools and the gauge quickly went into the red. Also, I vacuumed the system but quickly disconnected at the ports while the vacuum was running because the seals in the hoses of the loaner manifold tool were shot and wouldn't hold the seal. (That's why I didn't just charge it through the manifold toll)
Were you connected to the low side when you were trying to charge?
Absolutely
I just researched your evaporator core flush sequence. In retrospect, mine definitely did not flow that freely, it just trickled out when forced by compressed air. I went ahead and order a new one. I'll let you know how it turns out. I found another video on how to replace it without removing the dash.
Suburban Ranch need help on my 92. I don't see any wiring for the high-pressure switch.
I have a '92 K2500 Silverado and I don't have a high-pressure switch on the back of my compressor. Only a clutch switch on the front.
Hey I bought everything you listed and I am going to do the complete change out like you did. Question: do you know what the size and length of the ac compressor bolts? My truck is missing these bolts. I bought it with the bypass pulley on it.
I don’t, but I would snag a set from a junkyard truck
I feel like you left out a few things at the end like do you close low port valve between changes of cans and how much psi do we need total and is it possible to allow more air into system if we drain the can too much
Yes, good catch!
And am I the only one that noticed the garage door closed or is the door behind it open so the exhaust fumes don't get to ya lol
There is another garage door that is open!
Where do I get the Accumulator mounted R-134a Low side switch and part number. Have looked online to no avail. I'm converting 87 GMC pickup and have ordered all the parts except can't find this part. This is an excellent presentation and thanks for posting this. Thanks KM
Please disregard I found the correct discription and it is listed on the above parts list.
Now the most important thing: How cold was the air out of the vents???
DIY A/C recharge!
ruclips.net/video/2H-XfMEvY_Q/видео.html
Does anyone know if everything is identical on an 85 S10 ? Or is it a different type expansion valve/orifice tube type system being older ?