I've been watching videos on this issue for months and just found your video man. None of the other repair/voltage testing vids have been as short or as clear as this! Can't wait to test my board tonight/tomo following your video now. Thanks man 🤘
I am having the same issue with my Xbox Series S for about a week now. Funny as it sounds, it came back today, the light stayed solid and I could play a game for 3 hours. But as soon as I shut it down, it regressed. Now it is doing the same thing again. On for sec, off the next. If you have any idea or maybe a wild guess, please let me know.
Exactly the same thing used to happen with mine. It would turn on and stay on until I shut it off after which it would regress like you said. But if I let it sit powered off overnight, it would work again the next day and regress if I shut it off. I solved this problem by giving the entire motherboard an isopropyl alcohol bath (more like poured it all over) on both sides while brushing with a toothbrush. The thinking was that there could be some fluids, which, depending on the temperature, were affecting the motherboard behaviour. Even some flux residues left during soldering could become conductive if charred enough is what I've read online. So, the first step would be to visually inspect the board for liquid damage and corrosion first. Second would be to suspect the RAM and any other BGA chips because who knows what fine dust has accumulated beneath them. They would then need reballing. The problem with RAMs especially is that they aren't powered on during standby and hence any shorts or anomalies (on their power lines atleast) would not be registered by a DMM continuity or diode check. Any heating is also not possible to register on a thermal camera as the Xbox turns off instantly. So, you'll have to inject power into the RAMs' power rail (with the Xbox turned off) and check which RAM chip heats up to begin working on reballing it.
@@SopanKotbagi Thanks for a clear and detailed answer. Mine has been back to normal for a long time. My hypothesis, then, was that some droplets found their way to the motherboard because of stormy weather during those days. And I had left the window open. Just a week and half after the problem appeared I decided to give it another try, and guess what? I worked. I, then, didn’t even turn it off for a few days. Nevertheless, thanks for response.
i may have fixed this problem for me. Although i think it wasn't 100% the exact symptoms as yours. When i turned mine on i feel like it stayed on for 1 or 2 seconds more, I'm not sure though. Also my fan didn't start to spin. Not sure how much that matters though. Anyway: I thought the Powersupply was the issue so i ordered a working one and put it inside and for a second i really thought that fixed it because the console stayed one for quite longer. I had the thought that this was maybe just because everything was disconnected and another part was the issue so i reconnected the old PSU but again instant turn off. reconnected the new one and DAMN bummer, same problem. At that point i was about to give up because the PSU probably wasn't the issue and it would be anything much more complicated above my experience level. I removed the cooler once more considering to check values with the multimeter like in this video. Problem: I'm really bad with the multimeter and mine doesn't have thin enough probes to precisely target the chips. Just about to give up i saw some blue goo what maybe was corrosion one the chip which is marked light blue on the ifixit teardown with the description "ON Semiconductor NCP4205 (Likely an iteration of the NCP4204 Integrated Power Control IC found in the Xbox One) (probably CPU power phase PWM controller)". i continued spraying isoprop on it and scratching the goo off with a toothbrush and toothpick for some minutes. i couldn't completely remove it so i thought noway that's gonna do anything but BAM when i reconnected the psu and turned it on barebones it didn't turn off again! first success however I didn't get any picture so i was a little worried again there might be another problem. but it just seams like you only get any picture if the HDD is connected. In the end I stayed with the new PSU even though it probably wasn't the problem, i was just afraid it could maybe still be some sort of problem. So it seems my problem was fixed with scraping the goo of the ON chip. Maybe someone can just as easily fix their problem.
I have the exact same problem but I’m extremely inexperienced but basically my power supply is reasing too many vaults on each of the 6 little outlets, I’m not sure if that’s the problem or if I just need to do some scrubbing but any help would be appreciated
Buddy, this just fixed the one I’m working on! I cleaned it and it did not work. So I put some flux down and heated it up and I think it cleaned it up a bit better doing that. It turns on now.
i had this problem start in July of 2021 and just never got around to troubleshooting, but i can't find anything that explains what might be wrong as all the suggested troubleshooting methods don't work. my psu voltage reads only 11.93-11.94 but i don't think that that would be the reason for this problem as it is very close to the 12v. But maybe im just an idiot and it is just underpowered causing it to fail before booting.
Same here all standby voltages correct, fan doing nothing.... 12v at fan ( checking pulse width modulation 4 pin plug fan....... (new fan)..... Hope its that easy or its fkd.
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I've been watching videos on this issue for months and just found your video man. None of the other repair/voltage testing vids have been as short or as clear as this! Can't wait to test my board tonight/tomo following your video now. Thanks man 🤘
Hope you have luck, I’m facing the same issue as well
I am having the same issue with my Xbox Series S for about a week now. Funny as it sounds, it came back today, the light stayed solid and I could play a game for 3 hours. But as soon as I shut it down, it regressed. Now it is doing the same thing again. On for sec, off the next.
If you have any idea or maybe a wild guess, please let me know.
Exactly the same thing used to happen with mine. It would turn on and stay on until I shut it off after which it would regress like you said. But if I let it sit powered off overnight, it would work again the next day and regress if I shut it off. I solved this problem by giving the entire motherboard an isopropyl alcohol bath (more like poured it all over) on both sides while brushing with a toothbrush. The thinking was that there could be some fluids, which, depending on the temperature, were affecting the motherboard behaviour. Even some flux residues left during soldering could become conductive if charred enough is what I've read online. So, the first step would be to visually inspect the board for liquid damage and corrosion first. Second would be to suspect the RAM and any other BGA chips because who knows what fine dust has accumulated beneath them. They would then need reballing. The problem with RAMs especially is that they aren't powered on during standby and hence any shorts or anomalies (on their power lines atleast) would not be registered by a DMM continuity or diode check. Any heating is also not possible to register on a thermal camera as the Xbox turns off instantly. So, you'll have to inject power into the RAMs' power rail (with the Xbox turned off) and check which RAM chip heats up to begin working on reballing it.
@@SopanKotbagi Thanks for a clear and detailed answer. Mine has been back to normal for a long time. My hypothesis, then, was that some droplets found their way to the motherboard because of stormy weather during those days. And I had left the window open. Just a week and half after the problem appeared I decided to give it another try, and guess what? I worked. I, then, didn’t even turn it off for a few days.
Nevertheless, thanks for response.
i may have fixed this problem for me. Although i think it wasn't 100% the exact symptoms as yours. When i turned mine on i feel like it stayed on for 1 or 2 seconds more, I'm not sure though. Also my fan didn't start to spin. Not sure how much that matters though. Anyway:
I thought the Powersupply was the issue so i ordered a working one and put it inside and for a second i really thought that fixed it because the console stayed one for quite longer. I had the thought that this was maybe just because everything was disconnected and another part was the issue so i reconnected the old PSU but again instant turn off. reconnected the new one and DAMN bummer, same problem. At that point i was about to give up because the PSU probably wasn't the issue and it would be anything much more complicated above my experience level.
I removed the cooler once more considering to check values with the multimeter like in this video. Problem: I'm really bad with the multimeter and mine doesn't have thin enough probes to precisely target the chips. Just about to give up i saw some blue goo what maybe was corrosion one the chip which is marked light blue on the ifixit teardown with the description "ON Semiconductor NCP4205 (Likely an iteration of the NCP4204 Integrated Power Control IC found in the Xbox One) (probably CPU power phase PWM controller)". i continued spraying isoprop on it and scratching the goo off with a toothbrush and toothpick for some minutes. i couldn't completely remove it so i thought noway that's gonna do anything but BAM when i reconnected the psu and turned it on barebones it didn't turn off again! first success however I didn't get any picture so i was a little worried again there might be another problem. but it just seams like you only get any picture if the HDD is connected.
In the end I stayed with the new PSU even though it probably wasn't the problem, i was just afraid it could maybe still be some sort of problem.
So it seems my problem was fixed with scraping the goo of the ON chip. Maybe someone can just as easily fix their problem.
Mate any updates? Is it working properly till now?
@@anojenthanikasalam1466 It Wasn’t mine so I can't say if it still works but I did several tests and everything was working fine
I have the exact same problem but I’m extremely inexperienced but basically my power supply is reasing too many vaults on each of the 6 little outlets, I’m not sure if that’s the problem or if I just need to do some scrubbing but any help would be appreciated
Buddy, this just fixed the one I’m working on! I cleaned it and it did not work. So I put some flux down and heated it up and I think it cleaned it up a bit better doing that. It turns on now.
Did you every fix the Xbox for that issue? As i see you were incomplete with this repair, you didnt resolve the problem.
if i were to take my xbox to a shop how much might this be to fix?
Bout a hunned dallas
I have the processor in a short circuit and it works. I don't understand🤷
Please HELP my xbox one s has a dead APU please how can I replace it ?
hi, im trying to fix one, not the same model but has the same problem, it even makes the same noise when it turns off, did you figure it out?
what if it turns on for a long while, fan spins well but then turns off? no display in the 5-7 seconds it stays on
i had this problem start in July of 2021 and just never got around to troubleshooting, but i can't find anything that explains what might be wrong as all the suggested troubleshooting methods don't work. my psu voltage reads only 11.93-11.94 but i don't think that that would be the reason for this problem as it is very close to the 12v. But maybe im just an idiot and it is just underpowered causing it to fail before booting.
I have Xbox Series S doing this for a week or so. Did you ever find out what it was? Please let me know.
Do you have the video of the 1616 modelo or Is the same?
Mine.. same model is having that problem
Where is next video of this?
Same here all standby voltages correct, fan doing nothing.... 12v at fan ( checking pulse width modulation 4 pin plug fan....... (new fan)..... Hope its that easy or its fkd.
Did replacing the fan fix it
This didn't help because I can't open the Xbox. No matter how much I try to, it won't work.
I mean...you NEED to be able to open the xbox
ClovisX has a detailed video on how to take apart the Xbox One S.
I keep that video saved for whenever I need to clean mine out.
if you cant figure out how to open an xbox you dont need to think about repairing one
I have the same issue and same model can somebody explain to me where can i fix it 😢
Ensure its clean
Southbridge possibly?
where is it located?
@@NewsonsElectronics KIC IC X861949 possible?
Its time to send it to Northdrige Fix
i have the same problem. no mosfet dead ,,,xbox start the turn off 1 sec. someone can help >??????/
Did you fix it?
L.D. or APU
U Canadian brother? Haha
Fuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
cheeers for skipping how to actualy get to the motherboard
if you can;t open the device I would advice not to do this repair its for people who can service their x-box
Its really not that complicated
Facts
Violence fixes everything 🫶
🤣🤣🤣
is it work ?