Excellent troubleshooting technique and clean delivery/presentation. Like you said, most people would think that it is the Power board. However, you tested the power board by explaining the pins and their voltage table printed on the board. Also pointed out to the LED lit up once I/O board was disconnected from the Power board confirming that the Power board is OK. Not only that you showed what numbers to look for when ordering the I/O or Main board, which is very important to me. Thank you very much for your time in recording, presenting and sharing. I liked it. Congratulations!!! I will look forward for your other videos.
Just had the same problem with my 43” Samsung. Standby light on but no image or sound. Ordered both the I/O and power supply board. Turned out to be the power supply board. Back in commission. Thanks for the upload!
Great video! speaks clearly, explains how to check the voltage, and most importantly doesn't give a 30 min introduction or "unboxing" of the product like so many other videos out there. Thanks!
Thanks for posting this video. Its just helped me in repairing my own Samsung 55" Curve, UE55MU6500U, Costing me £50 for a refurbished PCB in the UK. Kind Regards
What are the odds, the first video and it's my exact tv and super easy fix. Thank you for making this video, I've fixed old school hd tvs where the caps on the power side were usually the culprit so it's nice to have someone who knows what they are doing make it easier.
I have the same TV too. After watching, following the troubleshooting process and finding the same results... A new circuit board (after waiting several months for one to be in stock) has fixed my problem. Thanks for the great video!
My less than 2 y.o. Samsung started flashing the actual screen as well as the red light. And so I don't have the tools you have but since you were able to purchase both components together inexpensively, couldn't I simply replace both with minimal toolage and hope for the best? Although you didn't show how easy or difficult the "power" component would be to replace.🤔😃 The thought of buying another tv only to have it do this again, while also adding more electronic crap to a landfill is not making me smile 😶
Just bought a Samsung 65" .. 7100 series .. possibly as old as 2013. Bought at auction for less than $100 .. got it home and plugged in .. black screen. Standby light is on, blinking. Watched 3 different videos this evening on how to possibly troubleshoot and fix. Your video right here may get me to where I want to be. Will try removing back cover and 'testing' the board(s) tomorrow. Will come back and report here if successful using your methodology. Thank you for your video to help me get started.
Thank you so much! I was following along and when I went to check the power side my meter would fluctuate and the lights for screen would flicker on and off. Turns out it was the power board. $34 later TV was fixed, got my part ShopJimmy. Thanks again.
My LG 55 Curve OLED has same issue. It works for approx 30 secs then switches off. After watching this informative video I have a much better understanding. Thank you!
Nicely and clearly done video. My TV dead few days ago and it's has the same symptoms like yours. I'm hoping I can fix it. Thanks for the very informative video.
I have the same TV only a smaller size, bought at the same time (about 5 years old) with the same problem (solid red light.) And got the same quote to fix it - $500. Haven't opened it yet to analyze. Not sure how reliable Samsung is with so many people with the same problem. Thanks for uploading.
I don't think it is a Samsung thing per se as the same thing could happen to any TV. Looking at the board design, I don't see anything that I would consider a bad design. Hot components had heatsinks, I didn't see stuff clustered together, routing looked fine. Basically it looked like a normal PCB and I'm betting that an LG, Phillips and other brands would look similar if I tore into one.
This is exactly what my TV did. I don't know if I had sound or not. I can see the power indicator light or red stand by light. Turned off all lights in my room with the TV on and I'm not seeing any lights threw any holes or anything in the back of the TV. So it sounds like a bad power board. I'll know more when I get it apart. Thank you for your video. You made it all look pretty easy.
Richard, was it the Power Supply board? Did you ever end up getting it fixed. I too dont see any backlighting but I get an intermittent standby light flashing when powering on.
@@portugeeguy25 I junked it. Was the power board but there are 3 or 4 numbers you need to match up to get the right board. Every board I found did not match up. Mine had 2 small compasitors and 1 large one. The other boards replaced that large one with 2 smaller ones. ???
@@richardclark9609 I believe my issue too is the power board, i ordered the same model number board so I should be good, but we'll see. if not the power board it might be the actual LED strips, if thats the case I too will junk my old unit due to not wanting to deal with the aggravation of fixing it.
Our year old 75 inch Samsung and our WiFi box quit after lightening hit our house in Switzerland. Easily replaced the WiFi but think our TV is toast. I could try doing your fix but would probably ground myself in the process:) Excellent video though.
Thanks for the troubleshooting steps, it surely helped. Had the same on a 24" samsung monitor with a solid red. After spending time diagnosing, it pointed to the main board. Ordered one and installed it, now the red light keeps flashing, does not power on. Time to keep troubleshooting...
Best of luck. Please share your findings if you figure out what the problem is. Sounds like you made some progress though moving from a solid to blinking light.
Good video. My 5 year old Samsung 55 inch shows the red power light on but black screen persists. If I play with the remote long enough (sometimes pushing the on button, unplugging the set for 5 minutes or so, plugging back in and pushing remote on button many many times) it will eventually power up and the tv works just fine, until I turn it off and the whole process starts over again. It's not a smart tv so it may not be worth spending $100 on to fix when I can get a new Hisence (may not be spelled right) smart tv for under $500 bucks . Hate to throw this tv out when I know it works though.
All would do well to see how a most informative and articulate video can be provided. I fix all that breaks, because of Post 2008 finances, that force me. Really, I love doing all types of Repairs, But this is not my forte. Now, I:m confident, with your fine tutelage, that my 65" Samsung will recover By my hands!. Take Care! Lee, FL
You are welcome. Mine failed just over a year and out of warranty. Too expensive to not do something about it but too expensive to have a repair guy come out so figured I would take a crack at it.
Yes I have a question. Can you come to my house? I bought a 50 inch TV for $10 at a garage sale and it doesn’t work red light comes on but that’s it. Straightforward video! I learned something today! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps you fix your TV. As for the house call, unfortunately you are out of my service area (aka, my kitchen counter). LOL
I have the samsung qled 8k purchased three years ago purchased the 5 year warranty. Last week was watching The View abruptly there was several q squared pixelation then turned off. Tried the little troubleshooting steps to no avail. However, I would say I still have power to the tv but won't turn on. By watching your video enlightened me to believe its the same issue at the IO board went bad considering that my power board is on electrical currently passes through the tv since the standby light is on.
This was a very good video, on how to DIY, an electronic repair, using basic electrical and troubleshooting skills to arrive at a possible determination. That being the computer board, and finding by researching a good value on both the power in and power out boards. Kudos for the good video!
The cost of TVs are coming down and you can land some great deals on a black friday or big sale. But for $90.00, figured it was worth a shot and trying to fix.
EXCELLENT video ! Only one question, wear rubber gloves, or not...too bulky ?! Of course stay away from incoming cord un reduced by board or capasitors that could hold charge ... but otherwise rest is low voltage. And you mentioned you grounded the tv prior to testing...grounded to WHAT ?! Have a samsung 50 inch going blue to black, got it going by draining power for over two minutes, but weeks after she did it again just watching it !! 3 years old, Have a Sony 25 inch tube 35 years old still running !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was surprised you didn't record the voltages on the bad board before you replaced it. That way you could T/S the bad board and possibly repair it. Just my thoughts on having a spare board.
Awesome, sir. I just replaced the tv with a monitor, although now I'm wondering if I should seek to do what you did. But after seeing how much you paid for the extra board...I might as well just get another TV for about the same price! The TV I'm watching this video on is the same model you just fixed.🤣Nice video anyway.
The cost of TVs continue to drop so it is approaching a point where that is a good question to ask. A 65" display in my area is still $400+ dollars vs the $90 I spent on the kit. So for me, it still made sense to swap the boards vs buy new. But I hear ya, sometimes it's just not worth the effort.
Thanks for the vídeo. I think my tv has same issue. I measure the power delivery from the power board and everything looks good. (Also LEDs goes on without the i/o card as yours) Searching for I/O card replacement. Saludos desde México.
Great work and you fixed it! We live in a disposable society these days and because of that more waste and garbage is produced. I am one who'd rather fix things than throw it away. 👍👍
5:44 My TV will also turn on the LEDs when I unplug the main board from the Power supply - but I can see one capacitor on the powersupply blown out. Should I replace only the Power supply or both Power supply and Main board ?
I bought a kid with both boards so I had that option if needed. Were it me, I would start with the power board and see if that fixes it. If not, then swap the mainboard as well.
Keep in mind Capacitors don't always blow out when they go bad, they can just develop high resistance and dry out but not blow out. The VISUAL INSPECTION thing is both a necessary thing to do but is also a beginner step and even though it is used by pro's it should never be your only method of troubleshooting capacitors. You want to be using and ESR meter to work it out properly In your case, you don't need to worry about the Power Board. You see When you have it all plugged in, YOU HAVE NO POWER AND NO BACKLIGHT then you unplug the connecting cable from the Power board to the Logic board THE RESULT IS... YOUR BACKLIGHTS COME ON That means the logic board has a short circuit on the power rails preventing the power from turning on. Simply Put... Faulty Logic Board If you work the statistics, it's highly likely , Only your Logic board is faulty, I would be replacing only that first. as for your capacitors. You should get an ESR tester and test all the capacitors in that area or... if you don't have one Replace all the capacitors in that area just for good measure. See if you get the backlight again, with Only the power supply on With Only the cable going to the LED Panel connected BUT NOT THE CABLE TO THE LOGIC BOARD, Keep that unplugged if still you get backlight but not picture on the TV and you still get no backlight when you plug in the logic board .... Replace the logic board
Probably the faulty parts in the main board are the mosfets or smd capacitors, using your dmm in the continuity mode would do the work. Thanks for sharing the video.
Great video.....I have a Samsung 75" Q70R and it went black screen while watching a movie, it flashed blue every 20 seconds, I have some knowledge in electronics so I opened it to see if it had bad capacitors. With the TV energized, I disconnected the ribon cable that goes to the main board and the screen turned blue, so I assumed it was not the damaged screen, I have been looking on ebay and I have found the original power supply parts, do you think that replacing the board will solve the problem?...thanks
@@nyyankee488 That's a great price. Feels great to save money when you DIY the repair. I hate paying someone else for something I know I can do myself.
Excellent video! I am having almost the exact same issues with my Panasonic TC-39AS530U. TV turns on, screen flickers 3 times (I can see the LED lights flickering in the back), then I get a blank screen with 1 LED flicker (error code 1 I assume) then just a slowly blinking red LED. There is no sound and I can't turn it off with the remote. I have to press and hold the power button on the side of the unit or unplug it to turn it off. I have tested my power supply board. ALL 3 test points (standby, LED driver, and main board) maintain voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light. However, the pins on the connector for the main board and driver board go from 16V and 24V respectively down to 0 when the light starts to blink. There are 3 test points on the main board, 5.3V, 12V, and 15V. The 5.3V (standby) maintains voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light, the other two do not, they go to 0. Would that, along with voltages being maintained on the power supply board, indicate that this main board is bad? I really hope that is the case as I do not want to get into replacing LED strips. Thanks and keep up the great work! P.S. I have put in new power supply and T-con boards and the problem continues.
are there any error codes online that might corelate to the blinking LED? I am wondering if they are blinking a pattern that it might be an error code.
@@RoughRidersTV After it flickers 3 times trying to turn on it blinks once...error code 1, then after a couple of seconds just a slow steady continuous blinking. I've replaced the power supply, main, and T-con boards so it looks as if I have some burnt out LED's. Your thoughts?
You are welcome. Hopefully it will help you fix your TV. Frustrating spending so much on a TV to have it fail just out of warranty. I think mine was about 2 months outside the warranty when it stopped working.
Sorry, I've not run into that before so I've not tried that repair. Basically, I work on my own stuff that breaks and if it seems like an interesting video idea, I turn it into a YT tutorial.
Thank you so much for sharing your time and knowledge with us all. I do gig work to help others and your video was very informative. I just subscribed and liked your video. I watched it to the end.
Very good........simple and understanding. Can I order parts for flat tv screen from you if I provide you all information like brand name, model number and extra ?
Sorry, can't help you. I'm not a shop or repair center. I'm just a guy that had a TV that broke so I tore it apart to try and figure out what was wrong. I recorded the video to show what I did to fix my TV.
@@boraingtabe5237 If you exchange the whole pcb , just look for numbers on the pcb, stamped on the side of a pcb, with ie number and V1.2 or the like.Many tv's have the same or different pcb's even from same brands. So looking at the brand of tv or type is often not enough. Look via search engine, repairing the components or resistors is often udoable,because they are so small,chances are slim it will work.
Very brief and complete. Awsome . When i plug in my tv (after being un plugged for few minutes) a white led light blinks on for a couple of seconds and then nothing happens. Ive checked everything like remote control batteries and all is fine. Tried to power on from the tv box too, nothing happens. The tv is directly connected to wall. Please help me understand the problem and how to solve it. Many thanks!
In theory, their troubleshooting experience should be worth it, but if the price to just replace the power & controller board is cheap enough and DIY-able... but the screen itself or other stuff could be broken... decisions, decisions
Hard to say what the repair cost will be. It all depends on the shop, what they find and the parts/labor involved to fix. Flat panel TVs are not all that complex and actually quite a bit easier than the old CRT/Tube TVs to repair as they are much more modular. Swapping out a failing PCB is simple, it's diagnosing the problem that can be tricky. It could be as easy as a cable or board or something a bit deeper into the panel. That combined with the falling prices of flat panels themselves sometimes makes it easier to just replace the TV.
while this is a Samsung, I can't say for sure it's planned obsolescence. I'm a EE and the board designs looked fine and like every other PCB. Now, I didn't have an OScope to dive into more signal analysis of the board. I don't know if this was a grounding issue or perhaps they needed another substrate layer or not on the PCB. I worked for a major silicon chip supplier for 15 years and I can confidently say that you don't design chips to fail at a given time. However, something clearly failed shortly after the warrant expired...maybe it's a cooling issue that caused a chip to overheat or static electricity from dust got in and shorted something out. I do know I've personally stopped buying Samsung because this wasn't the only Samsung product that I've bought that had problems. I don't know if LG is any better/worse.
I have a TCL 49 TV with similar symptoms. Thanks for the break down on measuring voltages from power board to main board to decide what is bad.That is the step I am at now. PS I would stay away from TCL tvs terrible customer support. TV had almost no use but was out of warranty.
I am getting the same voltage reading as you did but the led light do not turn on when I disconnect the cable from the main board. Is there a way to check if the led lights are functional? My power supply board seems fine as it gives the right voltage and not visual damage
That could be the T-conn board as the drivers for the LED should be part of that board. I did not disassemble the TV enough to show that board but it should be near the bottom center of the TV. You might need to dig a bit further to get to that board. That is where I would look next.
I'm here again after a month of waiting for the parts delivery. Thank God I finally can fix my TV with your given tips of how to diagnose the tv and i knew that my power board is faulty because of the burned mark so I bought a new replacement and it works perfectly. Thank you. Btw is it possible to fix the tiny smd chip (sized about 2mm) on my faulty board? It seems some of them if fried with the board around it. Is it even possible to repair it?
Hard to say without having the actual board to examine. Sometimes you can just swap out a resister, capacitor or chip (assuming you have good soldering skills) and get it back up and running but that is not always possible. It really depends on the failed component and the damage to the board.
Are you responding to questions on this video still? I have a 75 inch Visio that went out last night. Half of the screen turned A pinkish white color or whatever color and the other half of the screen remained working. I turned it off and then back on but the screen never came back on. The audio continue to work but not the video. Any suggestions?
Hi Rough, I opened my TV and inspected the power board for burn marks, bulged capacitors etc. and everything looks OK, I unplugged the connector like you did but on the power board side (not the logic/main board like you did) and the LEDs lit up so nothing wrong with the LEDs and power is getting to them. However, I don't have a multimeter to test output to the logic board. Nothing looks wrong with the logic/main board (no burn marks). Should I go ahead and order a new logic/main board ($92) and try that first and then order a power board ($20-38) if that doesn't solve it? Just curious, do you have any idea what might have caused your problem in the first place? I'm not sure but there's a chance adding a new HDMI connected Amazon Firestick 4K Max a month ago might have screwed things up on my main board because when I briefly got it to work for a second the screen went on and displayed on top "HDMI not connected" even though it was.
You can get a basic multimeter from Home Depot or Lowes for about $15. I don't know if they offer them as tool rentals but might be worth asking. It really helps avoid random swaps to find the problem. I did order both boards as a kit so that if one didn't work I could try the other. As to what could cause it? Heat and dust are 2 big issues for electronics. Dust carries static electricity that can cause components to short out. Heat can damage ICs over time...As it is, the TV already gets warm so adding heat from say an enclosed cabinet or mounting over a fireplace makes it that much harder to keep components cool. However, sometimes, components just fail with no real external cause. Hope that helps.
@@RoughRidersTV Hi, so I went ahead and ordered the main board without testing with a multimeter (BTW, I heard some libraries rent out multimeters and watt usage monitors). I installed it today, just like you did - the hardest part was getting all the cables out, and my TV is back!!! Now, upon inspecting the old board once removed from the TV I noticed what could possibly be the problem which wasn't apparent when it was installed. I realized the 2 bolted pins on the left (where the A/V connections are) that fasten the black metal heat sink plate to the processor were completely loose and not making contact with the processor (at least a 2 mm gap) or the 3 "n" shaped possibly sensors/contacts/spacers(?) near the bolts. This could be the culprit. The only way to find out is to fix it, reinstall and test. But it would require a shop as I don't have the tools. But it would've been a cheaper option than ordering a new board ($83). Unfortunately, my internet search gave me no clue that this could be something to check. Maybe somebody reading this might consider checking this. If it is the problem, it's a simple fix - the spring loaded bolts need to be refastened securely. Anyway, thanks a lot for your help, really appreciate it.
@@nGAhGENVH0Ul If the heatsink was not making contact with the chip, that could very well be the source. The chip overheated and most likely failed. Prolonged overheating on the chip will kill it so reinstalling the heatsink would probably not do anything. Glad your TV is back up though, congrats.
@@RoughRidersTV I hadn't considered the processor might have fried. Could be I suppose. Could it be poor design that the pins came loose? The rivets on the back don't look wide enough. I took photos but I can't post them here. Thanks again Rough.
Hello, thank you for the video it is pretty straightforward. my Samsung ue48h5273ss is not loading. Once I put it on, I can see the backlight come on but it is not loading to show me the start up menu. kindly help?
At the 8:50 mark, I show where I found the part number on my board. Then I just searched for that part number online. From there, I just verify that the boards appear the same and that is what I ordered.
Thanks. Glad you found your issue. Any problem finding a replacement board or did you go deeper into the board to find the failing component. My first guess would be a voltage regulator that failed if you were seeing bad numbers on the output side.
Didn’t go that far into it. Ordered a power board from the same place as you. First put it on, didn’t power up, no back lights. Pulled power, disconnect video board cable, ck’ed voltages, all good. Tried again, and the TV came to life! Don’t know why the screen didn’t come on the first time, but it’s working. Thanks again for sharing the video.
I thought the other pins besides your standby would be zero until the tv was told to turn on? On my tv all of my pins are reading zero besides standby voltage, and they all go to the correct voltage when I jumper the standby to the on/off pin. I’m not sure if I am thinking of this wrong. Thanks for any info you could provide.
Once you apply power to the system, the chip driving those pins will go to their known starting state. Without the datasheet, I don't know what that state is. The voltages should be on that table printed on the board but I don't recall what they are. However, most are don't care because there are only a couple that you care about when determining if the board is getting power.
I appreciate your video. But the the question I want to ask is: the i/o main board are they same for all TVs? I suspect the problem I have with my TV is same with your. Thanks.
@@RoughRidersTV A million thanks you..Today 4th July, 2021 . the main board came the mail yesterday. I have just put my TV back to work having replaced the main board and it is working perfectly Ok. I have 180 days warranty as well. Thanks again.
i have question my tv comes on only after i unplug and plug it becomes very annoying. i do get led light i have try other plugs same condition what you recommend
hard to say but sounds like a chip went bad on the I/O board. It's almost like it gets stuck in a logic state that is not clearing until power is completely removed...sorta like being stuck in standby. Removing the plug, removes all power so it is no longer in a low power state and ready to come back on quickly...removing that power forces it to reboot and clear all previous states. Were it me, I would try to find an i/o board for cheap and swap it and see if that clears the issue.
I’m having a problem with a Samsung DLP HLT-T6189S. If I keep turning power on, it flashes green, then it stops, but the screen won’t light up. Repeat this a dozen times and I can finally get it to light up. It’s taking longer and longer for that trick to work. I may be doing what you just showed me
What’s makes the IO board go out? We bought a brand new Samsun tv 11 days ago. Wont power on. We tried all the troubleshooting we could find online. Indicator light is on but nothing happens when I press the power button on the tv or the remote.
If you bought it brand new and it failed after 11 days, I would take it back as it is still under warranty. As for what could make it fail, could be a lot of different things. Power surge, dust (which carries a lot of static electricity by the way), bad resistor or capacitor on the board, faulty connections on the board, excessive heat something could have happened during shipping that cracked solder connection. It really could be a number of different possibilities. Some times, stuff just happens...it's very rare for something to fail that fast but not impossible as you found out.
I know it’s been 2 years but this is what’s happening to my daughter tv 65”. My question is what’s the name of the device you used to test the voltage. So i can buy one.
I'm not sure reflow would be the best option for an individual IC. But even so, you would need access to a reflow box and know which IC or component was failing. Without a datasheet and an O Scope, it would be hard to find the failing component.
Just the cost of the replacement board from Shop Jimmy and whatever taxes + shipping. So, just over $100 for everything as I recall. Still using it 2.5 years later and working fine.
Excellent troubleshooting technique and clean delivery/presentation. Like you said, most people would think that it is the Power board. However, you tested the power board by explaining the pins and their voltage table printed on the board. Also pointed out to the LED lit up once I/O board was disconnected from the Power board confirming that the Power board is OK. Not only that you showed what numbers to look for when ordering the I/O or Main board, which is very important to me. Thank you very much for your time in recording, presenting and sharing. I liked it. Congratulations!!! I will look forward for your other videos.
Just had the same problem with my 43” Samsung. Standby light on but no image or sound. Ordered both the I/O and power supply board. Turned out to be the power supply board. Back in commission. Thanks for the upload!
Great video! speaks clearly, explains how to check the voltage, and most importantly doesn't give a 30 min introduction or "unboxing" of the product like so many other videos out there. Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for posting this video. Its just helped me in repairing my own Samsung 55" Curve, UE55MU6500U, Costing me £50 for a refurbished PCB in the UK. Kind Regards
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching and leaving a comment.
What are the odds, the first video and it's my exact tv and super easy fix. Thank you for making this video, I've fixed old school hd tvs where the caps on the power side were usually the culprit so it's nice to have someone who knows what they are doing make it easier.
Thanks for watching.
I have the same TV too. After watching, following the troubleshooting process and finding the same results... A new circuit board (after waiting several months for one to be in stock) has fixed my problem. Thanks for the great video!
@@garrettb1134 Glad it helped.
Unplug it and changed the batteries and got the picture back to normal. Thank you.
😅
My less than 2 y.o. Samsung started flashing the actual screen as well as the red light. And so I don't have the tools you have but since you were able to purchase both components together inexpensively, couldn't I simply replace both with minimal toolage and hope for the best? Although you didn't show how easy or difficult the "power" component would be to replace.🤔😃
The thought of buying another tv only to have it do this again, while also adding more electronic crap to a landfill is not making me smile 😶
Just bought a Samsung 65" .. 7100 series .. possibly as old as 2013. Bought at auction for less than $100 .. got it home and plugged in .. black screen. Standby light is on, blinking. Watched 3 different videos this evening on how to possibly troubleshoot and fix. Your video right here may get me to where I want to be. Will try removing back cover and 'testing' the board(s) tomorrow. Will come back and report here if successful using your methodology. Thank you for your video to help me get started.
Good luck. Hope it works out for you.
Thank you so much! I was following along and when I went to check the power side my meter would fluctuate and the lights for screen would flicker on and off. Turns out it was the power board. $34 later TV was fixed, got my part ShopJimmy. Thanks again.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching
My LG 55 Curve OLED has same issue. It works for approx 30 secs then switches off. After watching this informative video I have a much better understanding. Thank you!
Glad it helped.
I'm so happy I found this video. I would have paid much more to have it fixed by a repair shop. Thank you!!!
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts.
I won't try to fix it myself, but just getting the proper info is simply Precious!
Excellent teaching method of showing each step, level of difficulty and final result!
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
Nicely and clearly done video. My TV dead few days ago and it's has the same symptoms like yours. I'm hoping I can fix it. Thanks for the very informative video.
You are welcome. Thanks for coming by.
I have the same TV only a smaller size, bought at the same time (about 5 years old) with the same problem (solid red light.) And got the same quote to fix it - $500. Haven't opened it yet to analyze. Not sure how reliable Samsung is with so many people with the same problem. Thanks for uploading.
I don't think it is a Samsung thing per se as the same thing could happen to any TV. Looking at the board design, I don't see anything that I would consider a bad design. Hot components had heatsinks, I didn't see stuff clustered together, routing looked fine. Basically it looked like a normal PCB and I'm betting that an LG, Phillips and other brands would look similar if I tore into one.
Thanks for this video! Was able to bring my tv back to life for $40!
Glad it helped.
This is exactly what my TV did. I don't know if I had sound or not. I can see the power indicator light or red stand by light. Turned off all lights in my room with the TV on and I'm not seeing any lights threw any holes or anything in the back of the TV. So it sounds like a bad power board. I'll know more when I get it apart. Thank you for your video. You made it all look pretty easy.
Glad it helped. Hope it all works out for you. Thanks for watching.
Richard, was it the Power Supply board? Did you ever end up getting it fixed. I too dont see any backlighting but I get an intermittent standby light flashing when powering on.
@@portugeeguy25 I junked it. Was the power board but there are 3 or 4 numbers you need to match up to get the right board. Every board I found did not match up. Mine had 2 small compasitors and 1 large one. The other boards replaced that large one with 2 smaller ones. ???
@@richardclark9609 I believe my issue too is the power board, i ordered the same model number board so I should be good, but we'll see. if not the power board it might be the actual LED strips, if thats the case I too will junk my old unit due to not wanting to deal with the aggravation of fixing it.
wow salute u mr rough rider very clear and fully detail all i need is there 10stars for u many many thanks
Thanks for watching
Our year old 75 inch Samsung and our WiFi box quit after lightening hit our house in Switzerland. Easily replaced the WiFi but think our TV is toast. I could try doing your fix but would probably ground myself in the process:) Excellent video though.
Thanks for the troubleshooting steps, it surely helped. Had the same on a 24" samsung monitor with a solid red. After spending time diagnosing, it pointed to the main board. Ordered one and installed it, now the red light keeps flashing, does not power on. Time to keep troubleshooting...
Best of luck. Please share your findings if you figure out what the problem is. Sounds like you made some progress though moving from a solid to blinking light.
Any luck ?
If he hasn't answered by now it usually means it didn't work, threw it out and bought a new one.
YOU ARE THE MAN!!! I AM A RESELLER AND GET NERVOUS ABOUT ELECTRONICS THAT ARE NOT INITIALLY WORKING. THE WORLD IS NOW MY OYSTER! 😂😂😂
Thanks for watching. Glad it helped
Good video. My 5 year old Samsung 55 inch shows the red power light on but black screen persists. If I play with the remote long enough (sometimes pushing the on button, unplugging the set for 5 minutes or so, plugging back in and pushing remote on button many many times) it will eventually power up and the tv works just fine, until I turn it off and the whole process starts over again. It's not a smart tv so it may not be worth spending $100 on to fix when I can get a new Hisence (may not be spelled right) smart tv for under $500 bucks . Hate to throw this tv out when I know it works though.
Did you ever figure it out
You are SO lucky, it will cost me more to have it done. Dang it. GREAT video.
All would do well to see how a most informative and articulate video can be provided. I fix all that breaks, because of Post 2008 finances, that force me. Really, I love doing all types of Repairs, But this is not my forte. Now, I:m confident, with your fine tutelage, that my 65" Samsung will recover By my hands!. Take Care! Lee, FL
Thanks for the comment. Hope it helps you fix your TV.
Thank you for your time and clear explanation. Now to fix my Hisense TV which is not powering up at the moment.
You are welcome. Thanks for checking out the video and leaving a comment. Good luck on your repair.
My first thought too would be the power board! Thanks for your input!
No problem. That was my initial thought as well but turned out to be the I/O board. Good luck on your repair and thanks for watching.
Thanks ny brother. I have a degree in electronics too. I feel good fixing my tv now.
Glad to help
Thank you for the vid, it helped me to fix mine that had the very same problem after 2 years of use.
You are welcome. Mine failed just over a year and out of warranty. Too expensive to not do something about it but too expensive to have a repair guy come out so figured I would take a crack at it.
Very good video. These TVs in reality are easy to fix most of the time. This video clearly show that. 👍
Yes I have a question. Can you come to my house? I bought a 50 inch TV for $10 at a garage sale and it doesn’t work red light comes on but that’s it. Straightforward video! I learned something today! Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video. Hope it helps you fix your TV. As for the house call, unfortunately you are out of my service area (aka, my kitchen counter). LOL
I have the samsung qled 8k purchased three years ago purchased the 5 year warranty. Last week was watching The View abruptly there was several q
squared pixelation then turned off. Tried the little troubleshooting steps to no avail. However, I would say I still have power to the tv but won't turn on.
By watching your video enlightened me to believe its the same issue at the IO board went bad considering that my power board is on electrical currently passes through the tv since the standby light is on.
This was a very good video, on how to DIY, an electronic repair, using basic electrical and troubleshooting skills to arrive at a possible determination. That being the computer board, and finding by researching a good value on both the power in and power out boards.
Kudos for the good video!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for making this video....gives me some confidence to do more troubleshooting with our TV.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great DIY video. Detailed and straight forward.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for a nice and clear video, as this gives me the confidence to take the back off my 50" LG that also is not powering up at the moment.
You are welcome. Thanks for stopping by.
Jamie Thompson, - Any Luck with the LG??
I don't have a Samsung, but this is great general info that could apply to my TV as well.
Well done enjoyed watching, not sure if I will go that far to order a new one.
The cost of TVs are coming down and you can land some great deals on a black friday or big sale. But for $90.00, figured it was worth a shot and trying to fix.
Its nice the way you explain things good work my friend
Get to it and you didn’t make it complicated for people who don’t have that knowledge thank you
No problem. Glad you liked the video.
Excellent fix & Explaining as you went along, Glad it worked for You! Hope it will work for me too lol
Glad it helped
The 15 second power button hold worked for me on my nano cell. Thanks!
You gave me the Best Info, after so many videos. Tks a lot!!
Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching.
EXCELLENT video ! Only one question, wear rubber gloves, or not...too bulky ?! Of course stay away from incoming cord un reduced by board or capasitors that could hold charge ... but otherwise rest is low voltage. And you mentioned you grounded the tv prior to testing...grounded to WHAT ?! Have a samsung 50 inch going blue to black, got it going by draining power
for over two minutes, but weeks after she did it again just watching it !! 3 years old, Have a Sony 25 inch tube 35 years old still running !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I was surprised you didn't record the voltages on the bad board before you replaced it. That way you could T/S the bad board and possibly repair it. Just my thoughts on having a spare board.
Straighforward indeed and worthwhile only if below 100$ for an >= $500 TV. Thanks for posting.
Awesome, sir. I just replaced the tv with a monitor, although now I'm wondering if I should seek to do what you did. But after seeing how much you paid for the extra board...I might as well just get another TV for about the same price! The TV I'm watching this video on is the same model you just fixed.🤣Nice video anyway.
The cost of TVs continue to drop so it is approaching a point where that is a good question to ask. A 65" display in my area is still $400+ dollars vs the $90 I spent on the kit. So for me, it still made sense to swap the boards vs buy new. But I hear ya, sometimes it's just not worth the effort.
I am glad I found this video I have the exact same unit, popped in a new pb and still same results
James Metalarc I was thinking it was going to be the power board but once I measured the voltages it was clear that wasn’t the issue.
Super video. and very good explantion while gooing trough the search for the falult. Good job. i will try myself now on my TV :)
Thanks for the vídeo. I think my tv has same issue. I measure the power delivery from the power board and everything looks good.
(Also LEDs goes on without the i/o card as yours)
Searching for I/O card replacement.
Saludos desde México.
Gracias.
Sir, you save me a trip to Best Buy. Thank you very much 😊
Excellent, detailed repair.
Thanks for watching.
Great work and you fixed it! We live in a disposable society these days and because of that more waste and garbage is produced. I am one who'd rather fix things than throw it away. 👍👍
Well said!
Great video,👍 explained with great detail.
Glad it was helpful!
Shop Jimmy is a really good and honest place.
They seemed good to me as well. No complaints.
5:44
My TV will also turn on the LEDs when I unplug the main board from the Power supply - but I can see one capacitor on the powersupply blown out.
Should I replace only the Power supply or both Power supply and Main board ?
I bought a kid with both boards so I had that option if needed. Were it me, I would start with the power board and see if that fixes it. If not, then swap the mainboard as well.
Keep in mind Capacitors don't always blow out when they go bad, they can just develop high resistance and dry out but not blow out.
The VISUAL INSPECTION thing is both a necessary thing to do but is also a beginner step and even though it is used by pro's it should never be your only method of troubleshooting capacitors.
You want to be using and ESR meter to work it out properly
In your case, you don't need to worry about the Power Board.
You see
When you have it all plugged in, YOU HAVE NO POWER AND NO BACKLIGHT
then you unplug the connecting cable from the Power board to the Logic board
THE RESULT IS... YOUR BACKLIGHTS COME ON
That means the logic board has a short circuit on the power rails preventing the power from turning on.
Simply Put... Faulty Logic Board
If you work the statistics, it's highly likely , Only your Logic board is faulty, I would be replacing only that first.
as for your capacitors.
You should get an ESR tester and test all the capacitors in that area
or... if you don't have one
Replace all the capacitors in that area just for good measure.
See if you get the backlight again, with
Only the power supply on
With Only the cable going to the LED Panel connected
BUT NOT THE CABLE TO THE LOGIC BOARD, Keep that unplugged
if still you get backlight but not picture on the TV
and you still get no backlight when you plug in the logic board
.... Replace the logic board
@@martinkuliza I replaced both for around $150 and now my TV works :) wasn't easy finding the parts
Thank you so much !! I turned it off and turned it on as you suggested... Yippee it works 😊
Wow it worked!!! Thank you.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Probably the faulty parts in the main board are the mosfets or smd capacitors, using your dmm in the continuity mode would do the work. Thanks for sharing the video.
Could be. I didn't have the tools to de-solder and re-solder new components down to the board anyway so it was easier to just replace the board.
Cool thanks for sharing your time 😀
Thanks for watching
Thank you this was helpful and understandable..
Glad it was helpful!
Great video.....I have a Samsung 75" Q70R and it went black screen while watching a movie, it flashed blue every 20 seconds, I have some knowledge in electronics so I opened it to see if it had bad capacitors. With the TV energized, I disconnected the ribon cable that goes to the main board and the screen turned blue, so I assumed it was not the damaged screen, I have been looking on ebay and I have found the original power supply parts, do you think that replacing the board will solve the problem?...thanks
same exact problem. thank you so much for this video. ordering the board now.
You are very welcome. Glad it helped.
Works like new now. Thanks again. Board was only $35. Saved me a lot of money.
@@nyyankee488 That's a great price. Feels great to save money when you DIY the repair. I hate paying someone else for something I know I can do myself.
Excellent video! I am having almost the exact same issues with my Panasonic TC-39AS530U. TV turns on, screen flickers 3 times (I can see the LED lights flickering in the back), then I get a blank screen with 1 LED flicker (error code 1 I assume) then just a slowly blinking red LED. There is no sound and I can't turn it off with the remote. I have to press and hold the power button on the side of the unit or unplug it to turn it off. I have tested my power supply board. ALL 3 test points (standby, LED driver, and main board) maintain voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light. However, the pins on the connector for the main board and driver board go from 16V and 24V respectively down to 0 when the light starts to blink.
There are 3 test points on the main board, 5.3V, 12V, and 15V. The 5.3V (standby) maintains voltage when it goes from power on to blinking light, the other two do not, they go to 0. Would that, along with voltages being maintained on the power supply board, indicate that this main board is bad? I really hope that is the case as I do not want to get into replacing LED strips. Thanks and keep up the great work! P.S. I have put in new power supply and T-con boards and the problem continues.
are there any error codes online that might corelate to the blinking LED? I am wondering if they are blinking a pattern that it might be an error code.
@@RoughRidersTV After it flickers 3 times trying to turn on it blinks once...error code 1, then after a couple of seconds just a slow steady continuous blinking. I've replaced the power supply, main, and T-con boards so it looks as if I have some burnt out LED's. Your thoughts?
XLove you man thanks for the video I was about to throw my $1500 LG 65 inch TV in the trash until I seen your video I’m hot on the repairs thank you
You are welcome. Hopefully it will help you fix your TV. Frustrating spending so much on a TV to have it fail just out of warranty. I think mine was about 2 months outside the warranty when it stopped working.
I see a lot of videos that show the led lights are burned out. Not the board. Any ideas on the led lights, testing , replacing ?
Sorry, I've not run into that before so I've not tried that repair. Basically, I work on my own stuff that breaks and if it seems like an interesting video idea, I turn it into a YT tutorial.
Thank you so much for sharing your time and knowledge with us all. I do gig work to help others and your video was very informative. I just subscribed and liked your video. I watched it to the end.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching.
How do I hook up the USB cord to the t
super good DIY video, keep up the good work
Wow mines is the same issue. Ill order the parts. Thank u for the video
Very good........simple and understanding. Can I order parts for flat tv screen from you if I provide you all information like brand name, model number and extra ?
Sorry, can't help you. I'm not a shop or repair center. I'm just a guy that had a TV that broke so I tore it apart to try and figure out what was wrong. I recorded the video to show what I did to fix my TV.
@@RoughRidersTV No worries. Your video show really helpful to me but the problem is spare part. Thank you very much.
@@boraingtabe5237 If you exchange the whole pcb , just look for numbers on the pcb, stamped on the side of a pcb, with ie number and V1.2 or the like.Many tv's have the same or different pcb's even from same brands. So looking at the brand of tv or type is often not enough. Look via search engine, repairing the components or resistors is often udoable,because they are so small,chances are slim it will work.
Thank you so much God bless you!!!
Glad it helped!
Very brief and complete. Awsome . When i plug in my tv (after being un plugged for few minutes) a white led light blinks on for a couple of seconds and then nothing happens. Ive checked everything like remote control batteries and all is fine. Tried to power on from the tv box too, nothing happens. The tv is directly connected to wall. Please help me understand the problem and how to solve it. Many thanks!
I would suggest following the steps outlined in the video.
@@RoughRidersTV to be honest your video is really helpful. Ill watch it once again. All the best
Thanks Rough Riders, for informative video.
You are very welcome. Thanks for dropping by and leaving a comment. Appreciate the support.
Thank you for making this video.
wish i would of seen your video before i brought my tv to the repair shop ! its there now so it will cost me a few 100$ ?
In theory, their troubleshooting experience should be worth it, but if the price to just replace the power & controller board is cheap enough and DIY-able... but the screen itself or other stuff could be broken... decisions, decisions
Hard to say what the repair cost will be. It all depends on the shop, what they find and the parts/labor involved to fix. Flat panel TVs are not all that complex and actually quite a bit easier than the old CRT/Tube TVs to repair as they are much more modular. Swapping out a failing PCB is simple, it's diagnosing the problem that can be tricky. It could be as easy as a cable or board or something a bit deeper into the panel. That combined with the falling prices of flat panels themselves sometimes makes it easier to just replace the TV.
Did your old lady let you leave the tv on the kitchen countertop for the whole time it took to fix the tv ?
If she did, you have a great one.
Yes, she is a great one. However, it was only about a week and she was at our other house getting things ready for our upcoming move. LOL
The fact this video has 700k views tells me LG must have planned obsolescence
while this is a Samsung, I can't say for sure it's planned obsolescence. I'm a EE and the board designs looked fine and like every other PCB. Now, I didn't have an OScope to dive into more signal analysis of the board. I don't know if this was a grounding issue or perhaps they needed another substrate layer or not on the PCB. I worked for a major silicon chip supplier for 15 years and I can confidently say that you don't design chips to fail at a given time. However, something clearly failed shortly after the warrant expired...maybe it's a cooling issue that caused a chip to overheat or static electricity from dust got in and shorted something out. I do know I've personally stopped buying Samsung because this wasn't the only Samsung product that I've bought that had problems. I don't know if LG is any better/worse.
Hey, that's just like my workbench! The kitchen counter!
Yep, gotta do what ya gotta do. LOL
My work bench is where ever I can set up. Usually the living room! 🤣
Usually need a headlamp and fortunately we have hardwood floors so I don’t have to worry about static as much.
I have a TCL 49 TV with similar symptoms. Thanks for the break down on measuring voltages from power board to main board to decide what is bad.That is the step I am at now. PS I would stay away from TCL tvs terrible customer support. TV had almost no use but was out of warranty.
Thanks for stopping by. Hope you were able to get your TV back up.
I am getting the same voltage reading as you did but the led light do not turn on when I disconnect the cable from the main board. Is there a way to check if the led lights are functional? My power supply board seems fine as it gives the right voltage and not visual damage
That could be the T-conn board as the drivers for the LED should be part of that board. I did not disassemble the TV enough to show that board but it should be near the bottom center of the TV. You might need to dig a bit further to get to that board. That is where I would look next.
I'm here again after a month of waiting for the parts delivery. Thank God I finally can fix my TV with your given tips of how to diagnose the tv and i knew that my power board is faulty because of the burned mark so I bought a new replacement and it works perfectly. Thank you. Btw is it possible to fix the tiny smd chip (sized about 2mm) on my faulty board? It seems some of them if fried with the board around it. Is it even possible to repair it?
Hard to say without having the actual board to examine. Sometimes you can just swap out a resister, capacitor or chip (assuming you have good soldering skills) and get it back up and running but that is not always possible. It really depends on the failed component and the damage to the board.
@@RoughRidersTV Thank you very much for the info.
You basically helped me fix my TV. Ordering the part as I type this. Thanks bunches man!
Glad I could help
Any chance you could tell me what voltage reader you use?
Mine is a Fluke but any volt meter will work.
Are you responding to questions on this video still? I have a 75 inch Visio that went out last night. Half of the screen turned A pinkish white color or whatever color and the other half of the screen remained working. I turned it off and then back on but the screen never came back on. The audio continue to work but not the video. Any suggestions?
Very good video 👍👍👍👍👍
Mick UK 🇬🇧
Thanks.
Thanks boss! Very informative, I hope I can fix my TV too with the same symptom and save some Peso. :)
Thanks for watching. Hopefully it will be an easy fix for you.
Hi Rough, I opened my TV and inspected the power board for burn marks, bulged capacitors etc. and everything looks OK, I unplugged the connector like you did but on the power board side (not the logic/main board like you did) and the LEDs lit up so nothing wrong with the LEDs and power is getting to them. However, I don't have a multimeter to test output to the logic board. Nothing looks wrong with the logic/main board (no burn marks). Should I go ahead and order a new logic/main board ($92) and try that first and then order a power board ($20-38) if that doesn't solve it?
Just curious, do you have any idea what might have caused your problem in the first place? I'm not sure but there's a chance adding a new HDMI connected Amazon Firestick 4K Max a month ago might have screwed things up on my main board because when I briefly got it to work for a second the screen went on and displayed on top "HDMI not connected" even though it was.
You can get a basic multimeter from Home Depot or Lowes for about $15. I don't know if they offer them as tool rentals but might be worth asking. It really helps avoid random swaps to find the problem. I did order both boards as a kit so that if one didn't work I could try the other.
As to what could cause it? Heat and dust are 2 big issues for electronics. Dust carries static electricity that can cause components to short out. Heat can damage ICs over time...As it is, the TV already gets warm so adding heat from say an enclosed cabinet or mounting over a fireplace makes it that much harder to keep components cool. However, sometimes, components just fail with no real external cause.
Hope that helps.
@@RoughRidersTV Hi, so I went ahead and ordered the main board without testing with a multimeter (BTW, I heard some libraries rent out multimeters and watt usage monitors). I installed it today, just like you did - the hardest part was getting all the cables out, and my TV is back!!! Now, upon inspecting the old board once removed from the TV I noticed what could possibly be the problem which wasn't apparent when it was installed. I realized the 2 bolted pins on the left (where the A/V connections are) that fasten the black metal heat sink plate to the processor were completely loose and not making contact with the processor (at least a 2 mm gap) or the 3 "n" shaped possibly sensors/contacts/spacers(?) near the bolts. This could be the culprit. The only way to find out is to fix it, reinstall and test. But it would require a shop as I don't have the tools. But it would've been a cheaper option than ordering a new board ($83). Unfortunately, my internet search gave me no clue that this could be something to check. Maybe somebody reading this might consider checking this. If it is the problem, it's a simple fix - the spring loaded bolts need to be refastened securely. Anyway, thanks a lot for your help, really appreciate it.
@@nGAhGENVH0Ul If the heatsink was not making contact with the chip, that could very well be the source. The chip overheated and most likely failed. Prolonged overheating on the chip will kill it so reinstalling the heatsink would probably not do anything. Glad your TV is back up though, congrats.
@@RoughRidersTV I hadn't considered the processor might have fried. Could be I suppose. Could it be poor design that the pins came loose? The rivets on the back don't look wide enough. I took photos but I can't post them here. Thanks again Rough.
Hello, thank you for the video it is pretty straightforward. my Samsung ue48h5273ss is not loading. Once I put it on, I can see the backlight come on but it is not loading to show me the start up menu. kindly help?
Did you walk through the troubleshooting as I did in the video? I would start there and see what happens.
Great video. Helped me alot.
Good troubleshooting. Thanks for posting! God bless.
Thanks for stopping by.
where do you find a part number, or how do you find your exact match?
At the 8:50 mark, I show where I found the part number on my board. Then I just searched for that part number online. From there, I just verify that the boards appear the same and that is what I ordered.
Good job! Mine turned out to have erroneous voltage coming out of power board
Thanks. Glad you found your issue. Any problem finding a replacement board or did you go deeper into the board to find the failing component. My first guess would be a voltage regulator that failed if you were seeing bad numbers on the output side.
Didn’t go that far into it. Ordered a power board from the same place as you. First put it on, didn’t power up, no back lights. Pulled power, disconnect video board cable, ck’ed voltages, all good. Tried again, and the TV came to life! Don’t know why the screen didn’t come on the first time, but it’s working. Thanks again for sharing the video.
I thought the other pins besides your standby would be zero until the tv was told to turn on? On my tv all of my pins are reading zero besides standby voltage, and they all go to the correct voltage when I jumper the standby to the on/off pin. I’m not sure if I am thinking of this wrong. Thanks for any info you could provide.
Once you apply power to the system, the chip driving those pins will go to their known starting state. Without the datasheet, I don't know what that state is. The voltages should be on that table printed on the board but I don't recall what they are. However, most are don't care because there are only a couple that you care about when determining if the board is getting power.
I appreciate your video. But the the question I want to ask is: the i/o main board are they same for all TVs? I suspect the problem I have with my TV is same with your. Thanks.
Each brand will have their own board design. However they will likely be similar to what you see here.
@@RoughRidersTV Thank you so much.
@@mon910i you are welcome
@@RoughRidersTV A million thanks you..Today 4th July, 2021 . the main board came the mail yesterday. I have just put my TV back to work having replaced the main board and it is working perfectly Ok. I have 180 days warranty as well. Thanks again.
i have question my tv comes on only after i unplug and plug it becomes very annoying. i do get led light i have try other plugs same condition what you recommend
hard to say but sounds like a chip went bad on the I/O board. It's almost like it gets stuck in a logic state that is not clearing until power is completely removed...sorta like being stuck in standby. Removing the plug, removes all power so it is no longer in a low power state and ready to come back on quickly...removing that power forces it to reboot and clear all previous states. Were it me, I would try to find an i/o board for cheap and swap it and see if that clears the issue.
@@RoughRidersTV thank you very much
I’m having a problem with a Samsung DLP HLT-T6189S.
If I keep turning power on, it flashes green, then it stops, but the screen won’t light up.
Repeat this a dozen times and I can finally get it to light up.
It’s taking longer and longer for that trick to work.
I may be doing what you just showed me
What’s makes the IO board go out? We bought a brand new Samsun tv 11 days ago. Wont power on. We tried all the troubleshooting we could find online. Indicator light is on but nothing happens when I press the power button on the tv or the remote.
If you bought it brand new and it failed after 11 days, I would take it back as it is still under warranty. As for what could make it fail, could be a lot of different things. Power surge, dust (which carries a lot of static electricity by the way), bad resistor or capacitor on the board, faulty connections on the board, excessive heat something could have happened during shipping that cracked solder connection. It really could be a number of different possibilities. Some times, stuff just happens...it's very rare for something to fail that fast but not impossible as you found out.
I know it’s been 2 years but this is what’s happening to my daughter tv 65”. My question is what’s the name of the device you used to test the voltage. So i can buy one.
It's a volt meter. You can find them at any hardware store or big box chain like lowes or home depot.
Thanks just save d me to have to get a new tv .. bedst regards from sweden ..
Thank you sir for this video
You are very welcome. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
Maybe it is possible to reflow the big ic on the defect i/O board.
I'm not sure reflow would be the best option for an individual IC. But even so, you would need access to a reflow box and know which IC or component was failing. Without a datasheet and an O Scope, it would be hard to find the failing component.
How much is a replacement bored?
I show you were I purchased the board and how much I paid in the video. It's probably around the 1/2 mark somewhere.
Got to ask - how much did it cost in total to repair?
Just the cost of the replacement board from Shop Jimmy and whatever taxes + shipping. So, just over $100 for everything as I recall. Still using it 2.5 years later and working fine.
Great video I’m testing mine out now! Hopefully self fix it.
Good luck. Thanks for dropping by.