*Chapters* 0:00 - Cost Breakdown 1:16 - Pros and Cons 1:49 - What You'll Need 2:27 - Optional Items 3:28- The Scanning Process 8:00 - Editing In Lightroom 9:15 - Outro
Always good to remove the dust although I believe the v600 has ICE which uses infrared light to eliminate dust. I’ve never used it but if it works well it would remove a little stress in being too precious about dust. From what I can see the scanner comes with various software that I would have imagined would have to convert the negatives rather than paying so much for an extra program… unless the lesser of the two programs is one of the 2 you compared and you just wanted to show another option - if so I’m not sure if I missed something or you forgot to mention the program came with it. Another option is that there was more software on the disc but it only gave you the basic operational program when you went to Epson.
Thank you for the helpful video, Andy. I'm planning to use the Epson V600 to scan film negatives when the scanner arrives, but my film negatives are rolls instead of strips of film. Would I need to cut the rolls in order for them to work with the scanner?
While this is a great video, it seems that film prices in the US are actually still pretty reasonable. I adjusted $34.99 from 2005 to 2020 inflation, and it came out to $46, so you could argue that it kinda costs the same.
I have an Epson V600 and approximately 4000 slides I want to scan in - I have tried using the Epson software but saw you talked about Negative Lab Pro - what is the total cost for this and is there any other software i need?
thanks, this is the most explicative/informative video that i've found so far about scanning w/an epson, do you recomend using an epson v370 for a similar result?
No problem! I’m glad I could help :) the v370 should work fine! Just doesn’t have as high of a dpi and may lack some other features but it’s great for scans!
Thank you for your review. It was helpful but I do disagree with one thing. Tiff files have more information and are better to use when we leave Ivan old images simply because there is more information to work with. That also goes for photo files from cameras as well.
Thank you, very helpful. Are you happy with the Epson V600? Recently got into medium format film photography, was thinking of picking up a v600 to scan my negatives.
The more I dig into the scanning of film I'm starting more and more wondering if film is worth investment. Can I get the same result, doing the same amount of editing with digital? What are your thoughts on film in this sense?
If I’m being honest, I don’t really shoot film anymore ever since Kodak started to consistently raise prices. I still have bunch of film stock that I save for select projects! But I mostly use my Fuji x100V with film simulations now and love it. I edit digital too. Film is an expensive hobby that I just don’t want to spend money on right now. I’ve taken/edited digital photos that look almost identical to film and no one notices! So just do what you want tbh.
@@AndyPerezCaba sounds rational, thanks for an honest answer The one thing I like is that film has higher dynamic range (but this partially can be solved with HDR and bracketing) and is a medium which is more long lasting in some sense compared to digital
@@AndyPerezCaba oh, maybe you can share some stock names? The cheapest I've seen were custom rolls of Aerocolor or 500T which are just done from big rolls of film
Great video thank you! You mention in the pros that you can scan the film border. I presume you would do this without using the negative holder correct? do you just lay the film direct on the the scanner glass? or is there another method. thank you again!
I'm using the same scanner and software (Silverfast), but I can't seem to get the sharpness right on the scans. Even when scanning with the biggest ppi, the photos come out out of focus, blurry and low quality. I also ended up upgrading Silverfast SE to Ai Studio in hopes to make improvements, but seems I'm still having the same issues. Any tips? Thanks in advance!
You want to make sure the matte side is facing up towards you. You could also try flattening your negatives in a sleeve under books overnight after development so that they’re not arched and cause blurry focus. Are you using the film holders too? If you are, I would recommend getting ANR glass inserts for 35mm and 120 if you shoot it. It helps tremendously! If that doesn’t work, try ANR glass right on top of the negative, flat on the bed. Those are all the tricks I can think of that are basic. There’s some more advanced methods if those don’t work. Feel free to DM on IG (link in description) if you need more help 😄
i looked for the canon 8800 f cuz i wanted a cheaper one but that one doesn't work with windows 10 sadly. Do u have another recommendation by any chance?
Hey man. Bought my first film camera and have been shooting and have 6 rolls to develop and eventually scan! I'm just needing the scanner at this point (I have all my supplies, and chemicals to develop). I was wanting to buy an Epson v600 as my scanner. As far as I can see, with the new Mac update (Big Sur) there can be a compatibility issues with Epson working with the new Mac software as I've seen some say MacOS only has support for 64bit software which some Epsons aren't? I've seen some people say you should buy the Silverfast SE, or VueScan Professional? Have you had this issue since you do you have Mac? Is buying Silverfast SE, or VueScan Professional a good idea? I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING. Hahahaha
How did you cut your film? I’m new to this. 😅 I’m trying to scan Kodak 200, and idk where to cut it to fit the film holder bc there’s no pictures on it?
@@AndyPerezCaba ah okay that makes sense! Sorry, I probably sound so dumb right now! 😭😭 I just started shooting film. I didn’t develop it first. I only scanned the first few of the roll, but I was in a pitch black room, so will it still be able to save my pictures?
The computer program is set up to recognize the border of a picture on film by a clear line separating the pictures. Film from decades ago separated pictures on film by a black line between pictures. Is there a way to set the software to recognize backlines as the border of pictures?
I’m not sure. When it’s picking the frames for me, I can adjust what area I want to be part of the photo. You should be able to create your own boarders. Is that what you wanted to know? If it DM me and we can figure it out
silverfast doesn't want to scan my negatives for some reason, im certain i have all the software downloaded but it does not work, it will scan when its in reflective mode but when i prescan in transparency mode it does nothing, any idea why?
@@mauriciodomingo9193 yeah I’ve never heard of that. Make sure there’s nothing blocking the scan or anything. Maybe see if Reddit users have any similar experiences. Or try redownloading the software
5:54 not obvious! Silverfast is the better because it retains the original (higher than 8bit/channel) dynamic range. These photos shall view on a HDR display that take advantage of the real density of the film when scanned with pro software like Silverfast. 8 bit displays are simply not enough for comparison.
@@AndyPerezCaba It actually ended up being my scanner film holder itself. Imagine that? Hours of frustration later and it was the actual holder. If anyone else has this issue, that's a good place to start diagnosing the problem.
*Chapters*
0:00 - Cost Breakdown
1:16 - Pros and Cons
1:49 - What You'll Need
2:27 - Optional Items
3:28- The Scanning Process
8:00 - Editing In Lightroom
9:15 - Outro
should we develop the film first? or can scan directly?
@@tejaswinireddy7116 always develop your film before it sees any light at all
Always good to remove the dust although I believe the v600 has ICE which uses infrared light to eliminate dust. I’ve never used it but if it works well it would remove a little stress in being too precious about dust.
From what I can see the scanner comes with various software that I would have imagined would have to convert the negatives rather than paying so much for an extra program… unless the lesser of the two programs is one of the 2 you compared and you just wanted to show another option - if so I’m not sure if I missed something or you forgot to mention the program came with it. Another option is that there was more software on the disc but it only gave you the basic operational program when you went to Epson.
Thx very much bro! I was thinking in buy it, now I definitely I’ll do! Greetings from Mexico 🇲🇽
No problem! 😄
Just picked up the v600 at a thrift store for $20 CDN and scanned my first roll :)
What a lucky find! So excited for you!
Hi! Why should glossy side be down and matte side up?
Thank you for the helpful video, Andy. I'm planning to use the Epson V600 to scan film negatives when the scanner arrives, but my film negatives are rolls instead of strips of film. Would I need to cut the rolls in order for them to work with the scanner?
I’ll still rewatch it ☺️
Thanks 😂🤙🏽
SilverFast interface is confusing as $hit and NegativeLabPro ain't free. I've been using the Epson s/w in the Pro mode.
extremely helpful thank you!!
No problem!
Do you develop film and then scan? Am i doing wrong when i scan without developing?
Yeah if you scan without developing it’s ruined. You can’t expose film to light unless it’s developed
Oooh okay :p
How do I develop films?
While this is a great video, it seems that film prices in the US are actually still pretty reasonable. I adjusted $34.99 from 2005 to 2020 inflation, and it came out to $46, so you could argue that it kinda costs the same.
I have an Epson V600 and approximately 4000 slides I want to scan in - I have tried using the Epson software but saw you talked about Negative Lab Pro - what is the total cost for this and is there any other software i need?
I use Lightroom and negative lab pro, which is $100 for lifetime access
what a great video, this is so well explained and helpful! thank you :)
Thank you for watching! Glad I could help
Hey I had to re-upload this video. Some of you may have already seen it! Sorry ❤️
thanks, this is the most explicative/informative video that i've found so far about scanning w/an epson, do you recomend using an epson v370 for a similar result?
No problem! I’m glad I could help :) the v370 should work fine! Just doesn’t have as high of a dpi and may lack some other features but it’s great for scans!
Thank you for your review. It was helpful but I do disagree with one thing. Tiff files have more information and are better to use when we leave Ivan old images simply because there is more information to work with. That also goes for photo files from cameras as well.
Thank you, very helpful. Are you happy with the Epson V600? Recently got into medium format film photography, was thinking of picking up a v600 to scan my negatives.
I love it! Use it all the time
The more I dig into the scanning of film I'm starting more and more wondering if film is worth investment. Can I get the same result, doing the same amount of editing with digital? What are your thoughts on film in this sense?
If I’m being honest, I don’t really shoot film anymore ever since Kodak started to consistently raise prices. I still have bunch of film stock that I save for select projects! But I mostly use my Fuji x100V with film simulations now and love it. I edit digital too. Film is an expensive hobby that I just don’t want to spend money on right now. I’ve taken/edited digital photos that look almost identical to film and no one notices! So just do what you want tbh.
@@AndyPerezCaba sounds rational, thanks for an honest answer
The one thing I like is that film has higher dynamic range (but this partially can be solved with HDR and bracketing) and is a medium which is more long lasting in some sense compared to digital
@@artemeelemann317 yeah, and there’s less expensive film stocks out there. I make it sound like Kodak Is the only brand 😅😂
@@AndyPerezCaba oh, maybe you can share some stock names?
The cheapest I've seen were custom rolls of Aerocolor or 500T which are just done from big rolls of film
@@artemeelemann317 cheapest here is usually fuji superia 400
Great video thank you! You mention in the pros that you can scan the film border. I presume you would do this without using the negative holder correct? do you just lay the film direct on the the scanner glass? or is there another method. thank you again!
No problem! You’d probably want to use ANR glass to scan or else you’d get newton rings.
I'm using the same scanner and software (Silverfast), but I can't seem to get the sharpness right on the scans. Even when scanning with the biggest ppi, the photos come out out of focus, blurry and low quality. I also ended up upgrading Silverfast SE to Ai Studio in hopes to make improvements, but seems I'm still having the same issues. Any tips? Thanks in advance!
You want to make sure the matte side is facing up towards you. You could also try flattening your negatives in a sleeve under books overnight after development so that they’re not arched and cause blurry focus. Are you using the film holders too? If you are, I would recommend getting ANR glass inserts for 35mm and 120 if you shoot it. It helps tremendously! If that doesn’t work, try ANR glass right on top of the negative, flat on the bed. Those are all the tricks I can think of that are basic. There’s some more advanced methods if those don’t work. Feel free to DM on IG (link in description) if you need more help 😄
@@AndyPerezCaba thanks!!
i looked for the canon 8800 f cuz i wanted a cheaper one but that one doesn't work with windows 10 sadly. Do u have another recommendation by any chance?
I would read some reviews on Epson V39 and see what others thing about it on windows 10 :)
Hey man. Bought my first film camera and have been shooting and have 6 rolls to develop and eventually scan! I'm just needing the scanner at this point (I have all my supplies, and chemicals to develop).
I was wanting to buy an Epson v600 as my scanner. As far as I can see, with the new Mac update (Big Sur) there can be a compatibility issues with Epson working with the new Mac software as I've seen some say MacOS only has support for 64bit software which some Epsons aren't?
I've seen some people say you should buy the Silverfast SE, or VueScan Professional? Have you had this issue since you do you have Mac? Is buying Silverfast SE, or VueScan Professional a good idea? I HAVE NO IDEA WHAT I'M DOING. Hahahaha
I didn’t have any problems! But I hope everything got figured out 🙏🏽
How did you cut your film? I’m new to this. 😅 I’m trying to scan Kodak 200, and idk where to cut it to fit the film holder bc there’s no pictures on it?
There should be photos on the film after developing? Did you develop your roll?
@@AndyPerezCaba ah okay that makes sense! Sorry, I probably sound so dumb right now! 😭😭 I just started shooting film. I didn’t develop it first. I only scanned the first few of the roll, but I was in a pitch black room, so will it still be able to save my pictures?
The computer program is set up to recognize the border of a picture on film by a clear line separating the pictures. Film from decades ago separated pictures on film by a black line between pictures. Is there a way to set the software to recognize backlines as the border of pictures?
I’m not sure. When it’s picking the frames for me, I can adjust what area I want to be part of the photo. You should be able to create your own boarders. Is that what you wanted to know? If it DM me and we can figure it out
Is the canon lide 400 a good choice for scanning negatives?:/
The only big difference I would say is the max dpi you can scan. I’d recommend it.
Crazy!! It was $240 for that scanner last year. It’s now $300 at Best Buy 🫠
No way?! I got it at a good time then!
silverfast doesn't want to scan my negatives for some reason, im certain i have all the software downloaded but it does not work, it will scan when its in reflective mode but when i prescan in transparency mode it does nothing, any idea why?
Like it literally doesn’t do anything or you just don’t see a scam?
@@AndyPerezCaba I can open the software and mess with setting, I just can’t see any scans when I press the scan button
@@mauriciodomingo9193 yeah I’ve never heard of that. Make sure there’s nothing blocking the scan or anything. Maybe see if Reddit users have any similar experiences. Or try redownloading the software
Good video brah.
NLP is one time payment only?
Yes :)
hey man thanks for uploading this video
No problem man!
Do you still need to pay a monthly fee to use Lr?
As far as I know, yes.
5:54 not obvious! Silverfast is the better because it retains the original (higher than 8bit/channel) dynamic range. These photos shall view on a HDR display that take advantage of the real density of the film when scanned with pro software like Silverfast. 8 bit displays are simply not enough for comparison.
Batch scan doesn't show up for me for some reason
Hmmm I’m not sure. You have to hold down the scan button
Can I get lab results man??
I can film a video showing a comparison between the two if you’d like!
@@AndyPerezCaba Yeah.. but I just made the purchase for a C41 kit, v600 and NLP... I shoot 35mm. Will I be happy with the purchase? Thanks
@@evertking1 I think you can! With a little practice there’s no reason you wouldn’t prefer your scans over the labs
None of these videos show how to scan single frame negatives!
Bro my fucking shit will not work correctly SOMEONE HELP ME 😂 nowhere can I find ANY help
Silverfast is complete garbage on my scanner
I haven’t had any issues, but epson scan 2 is another good alternative! What scanner do you have?
@@AndyPerezCaba It actually ended up being my scanner film holder itself. Imagine that? Hours of frustration later and it was the actual holder. If anyone else has this issue, that's a good place to start diagnosing the problem.
@@GnartotheBone What did you do to fix the film holder? Wondering if that's the issue I'm having.
Good info...talks way too fast!!!!
It’s the Latino in me 😭 my bad lmao