My neighbor gave me a Nikon Coolscan 4000 he found on the street knowing I'm into tech and thinking it was an old pc. I bought a firewire card and it worked. That scanner sparked my interest for shooting film.
FYI: When shooting close-up, diffraction occurs much sooner than on normal distances. Becuase of this, shooting at f8 is probably going to be sharper than f11!
One tip for lightroom. In the sharpening tool you can choose what you want to sharpen. Just hold opt or alt on your keyboard while dragging the masking slider and you can sharpen more or less selectively depending on what the picture calls for. Great video btw!!!
I use the Essential Film Holder from Brit photographer Andrew Clifforth - £90 odd quid netted me 35mm and 6x9cm masks. It's glassless, no metal and works perfectly. Way cheaper than the holder you mentioned and works seamlessly. I scan with a Sigma SD Quattro H and 70mm f2.8 DG 'Art' lens. The Foveon combo has a 51mp equivalent resolution to Bayer and records colour at every pixel site. The usual daylight balance light pad and Negative Lab Pro completes the deal to swallow up what the Fuji GW690 MkI, Topcon RE Super, Leica M3 DS, Leica IIIf, Pentax SV, Ricoh TLS EE, Canon 50e and Canon 300v chuck out. Happy days.
I’m addicted to your channel (and now Bad Flashes!). This was such a good tutorial! Because of your videos, I got hooked on film and am (as of today!) the proud owner of a Pentax 6x7 with the 75mm and 105mm lenses. Thank you!
Flipping the image in the edit indeed helps. Also, changing the background color periodically to black, middle gray, and white also helps recalibrate your eye to the image during the edit.
Great purchase! Superior to DSLR scanning in every way except convenience. Imagine taking a picture of your medium format negative with a standard DSLR lens. Bottle neck extravaganca
Agree. Mine is 4 months old. It stands dusting in the corner, because it scans like shit! I googled now some info about the scanner. And it shows that the effective dpi is only 1560dpi... which looks believable. It's also SUPER inconvenient!
Big oof. Horses for courses and all that, but if it were me I'd be looking around for that receipt/order confirmation and seeing if I was still within the returns period. Would you rather have something that only digitises your negatives or something that can do all of that but can also take photos?
@@yetanotherbassdude the set up in the this video is far more expensive than a v600. you can get a used v600 for under 200 bucks , that barely even pay for a decent stand for a dslr setup. If you have a perfect photo (that you want to get printed huge) and you are shooting 120 , you would probably want to send it off to get drum scanned any how.
Real answer: As far as I'm aware, Jason usually sends them off to a lab to get developed. They send back the developed negatives, which can then be fed to the scanner. Developing at home is really fun but in the case of colour negative film it can be quite tedious, as you have to work with very exact timings and water temperatures. However, black and white development is quite easy to get into and loads of fun!
Have you ever tried to do camera scanning with the emulsion side up (which is the same as flatbed scanners with the emulsion side towards the sensor)? The image needs to be flipped in post but seemingly gives better detail.
I would recommend this also. Your lens will then be focused purely on the image itself and not through a layer of film. You will typically find this to provide an even sharper image. Just remember to flip horizontal in post.
"It's been long enough" Honestly, i wish it was longer. I really lose track of my surroundings and merge with your work in the video. Keep it up, i absolutely love your channel. (Maybe it could be interesting if you'd upload longer and unfiltered projects on a second channel.)
I use a full Negative Supply scanning rig with the A7Riii. Pixel shift will likely annoy the shit out of you unless your home has absolutely zero vibration. If my homes a/c is on or my dog is walking through the room pixel shift doesn't produce great results a lot of the time. It's quite sensitive to any sort of minor vibration.
I totally agree about the fact that digitising is a developing (heh) thing. I have only just in the last few months gotten close to something I am more or less happy with. Won't bore with more details than necessary, but would recommend 3 pieces of affordable and one 'affordable monthly payments forever' piece of kit. 1) Can't afford a macro lens? Nifty 50 with extension tubes. 2) Pixl-latr negative holder - effective and cheap, and does 135 up to 4x5 3) Kaiser's bargain basement copy stand is far cheaper than other, admittedly slightly sturdier, models 4) Nikon D780 has the same auto neg scanning mode as the D850. It does auto inversion and creates a good looking JPEG, allowing me to digitise a whole roll in less than 10 minutes. Good enough for the internet and book sized printing. Thank you, Nikon gods.
For DSLR scanning print film, the type of backlight also matters a lot. I’d recommend using a RGB “white” light instead of a simple white led, which has a blue peak due to how white leds are made today. Other than making you a better gamer, a RGB backlight also better mimics an enlarger head because they both have RGB peaks and consequently better channel separation. Pro monitors also use pseudo RGB backlights for their superior color reproduction. I constantly achieve better results with RGB when scanning my negs, although slides not so much.
I know this is so minor, but I always admire the opening credits you make, they look so lovely. Not gonna lie, I've been considering DSLR/mirrorless scanning, but seeing the ease of your workflow makes me look at my V550 with disdain hahahah. And that flip horizontal tip was really clutch. Definitely stuffing that one in the cornucopia
fyi I do macro work on DSLRs, unrelated to film. I will say that pixel shift is really not useful, even with a perfectly static subject. If you want higher resolution, take multiple shots and stitch like you do for 8x10. It will get you much better quality than pixel shift ever will. If you cant magnify the image enough, you can either upgrade lenses (the laowa 100mm 2x macro is my suggestion) or just slap on some extension tubes for very little money. Also for the newton rings, its cause by the interference pattern from your glass. One way you can get around it is by using a "frame" around the image. use a flat object with a rectangular hole in the middle. It will keep the object equally as flat, but because it doesnt have the glass, you wont get the internal reflections of the glass.
Agreed. I find it to be pretty useless unless you're in an environment complete void of any tiny vibration. Not even a breeze. I've never gotten a successful tripod shot outdoors with it. Too fuzzy in the details.
Neat-O. I will have to check if you have an update to this. I have an Epson Perfection V600 Photo. It can do 35mm and 120 with holders. No Newton because the holders keep the negs from touching the glass. It is fantastic. I have a couple RB-67's I thought I would never use again when I got hundreds, maybe thousands of rolls of B&W film from when a college library shut down their wet processing. Pan-X to the modern T-Max and Fuji and Ilford and several more. I do everything in Diaphine so I don't pay much attention to temperature and time. Since I also have their Jobo setup with a bunch of tanks and reels, I use it. I have a good changing bag and don't need a darkroom. The results are really fantastic. By the way, I bought a Coolscan and automatic slide feeder - which I had to make feed properly - on eBay. Scanned a couple thousand slides, sold it on eBay for what I paid.
I think you just described contact sheet lol And yes at least with B&W it becomes positive (haven't used it with colour so don't know bout that but I assume so)
My workflow has changed through the years. I’m split between a negative supply setup using my Nikon D7100, an Epson v550 (generally only use it to scan books actually), and my newly obtained Nikon Coolscan 5000. When using the Epson I was scanning with Silverfast. NLP is used with my DSLR. Lastly I haven’t fully figured out my workflow with the Nikon. I use it within a windows xp VM and then edit them in Lightroom but working on how to get the most out of the scans.
@Frank Silvers this is something I need to try. I own vuescan but never enjoyed using it. I started using Nikon scan because I wanted to see if it could offer any special colour correction that Nikon had baked into the software that wasn’t available in other scanning apps.
@Frank Silvers which part of the instructions are you referring to? I do use the software on a daily basis for scanning other things just don’t enjoy using it. Are there any sections of the instructions that are the most important. I could read all the instructions but that might also not be relevant to scanning film.
Get an Essential Film Holder instead at like 1/4 or 1/5th the price & doesn't ruin your negs with the inner feeder wheels. No outer feeder knob on the EFH, but it's actually quicker without it. A great product from the UK.
I use a 3D printed frame that sits on top of a light box or sometimes my iPad with a blank white photo on the display. I can send you the STL file for 35mm and 120 if you like
I use the Negative Supply Basic carrier which is $100 and a cheap remote for my A7II from amazon for about $15. I can do a 36 exp roll in under a minute by pulling the film by hand between each shot.
I have an unanswered question that just keeps bothering me: what sort of human beings dislike granydays videos? Who are those godd*nm 50 people! Huge bravo for your channel; it's just one piece of wonder.
Handy tips - mask out your light box to format size I use a lens hood myself And use a accurate bubble level to set film And camera true to each other. Hopper inspiration is Excellent 👌
I've started doing SLR scans for 120 film. I do the same setup that you have but I take it with a Nikon FM2 35mm and then I get that developed and scanned at a lab
Great setup.. I also have the Primefilm for 35mm but I use the Epson V800. 6x7 film gets 33 actual megapixels at 2300 dpi from the Epson. I am not sure how the DSLR will stack up with this considering its losses for (i) different aspect ratio and (ii) bayer interpolation. But I don't have a DSLR...
Dude this is an older video but I really enjoyed you diving into the geeky stuff. You’re a much better photographer than you let on and I steal a lot from your visual style haha. Keep up the good work!
No film negative is the finished image. All negative films are designed to be printed onto photochemical paper. They might have been optimized to be easier to scan but that doesn’t change the fact, that if you’re after the inherent film look, you’re gonna have to look at analog prints. This is especially true for color negative film where the choice of paper or the way it’s scanned has at least as much, if not more of an effect on the way colors are rendered than the original choice of film stock. The Fuji Frontier does a pretty good job at getting colors and contrast to look like the image has been printed on photochemical paper. NLP has a LUT that can get you there in combination with the Frontier color model.
I use the same light pad! Except I modified it by the guts out and build a more robust light bed under it (using a 16x12 metal picture frame) it lifts the diffusion and I wired a bunch of RGB + Daylight & Tungsten LED to an aluminum base … it was kinda expensive and a lot of work but it makes an enormously high dynamic range white light, but I could jack up certain channels if I want to warm up the scan … would be interesting in B & W too. I scan with a Sigma SD1 … love this setup
Excellent video! Have you done a video on printing digital images? I’m struggling with how to get good B&W digital prints that have the same feel as traditional darkroom prints.
I had to watch this video twice because it was so informative . I’ve only shot B&W over the years but your videos are inspiring me to try color again. My collection consists of a Mamiya 645 pro tl, Olympus OM2 and a Canon Canonet G-III 17. Thanks.
Thanks a lot! I am just in the process to decide how to scan my 11x14 LF material. There is only one flatbed scanner I know of which can scan that format (Epson Expression 12000 and earlier versions of it), which is very expensive and does cost used still over 1k USD, when you buy a decade old one. Or I use my Olympus digital camera with a pro prime lens and the 80 MP pixelshift mode. After your video I think my first try will include to buy a copy stand.
While it is by no means professional, I have 3D printed a 120 film holder for DSLR scanning and it works really well! For a hobbyist it works great and I get quick, cheap, and easy results!
VueScanTip for RAW dustremoval:When Scanning RAW the resulting RAW does not have the IR dust removal step applied, unless you have the right settings (he has not in the video). So under the "Output" Tab change the option "Raw output with” from “Scan” to "Save". I think thats why he might has disabled the dustremoval option completly.
You can fluid mount 8x10 directly on the scanner glass to get rid of the Newton Rings. 8x10 on a flatbed around 2400dpi is insane detail and much easier then the stiching in photoshop IMO.
'Good video! I admit I've tried to get into the concept of scanning film but I just can't get my head around it. When I shoot film (mostly 120 but sometimes 35) I process/print in the darkroom. For me the big difference is I shoot film when I plan to make prints; I shoot digital when they are going to end up on the computer...and probably never be seen again. ;)
i started focusing in photography from over a year or so and you just answered many many many questions i had and couldn't find a real answer to in photography in general so thank you
You can also add some infrared cleaning in your raw dng. Then in the output tab under “Raw output with:” click Save instead of scan. Finally you hit save at the bottom
Great workflow. I tether to my MBP so I don't need the 2 sec delay on the camera. And it dumps my images to my computer so I skip the step of transfer from the card. I frowned at the cost of the Negative Supply holder and ended up with the Essential Film holder with a mask for 35mm and 120mm. It works well, no complaints yet. Do you ever wipe the film with a microfiber cloth before scanning? You did not mention if you scan the emulsion side towards the sensor.
well, i just found your channel, and with the absolute deadpan delivery on that taco bell joke i had to immediately pause the video, subscribe, and write this. your content looks amazing, keep it up!
Thanks for covering 8x10, and implicitly everything above 120 (including 4x5, and hopefully this comment will get you a few more hits on the algorithm for that, but 4x5 and 5x7 may be bigger audiences than 8x10). Those retractable sharpies are the bomb, but are you doing something photographically with them? ... beyond looking cool The details on the LR steps was very useful to see.
Question: if your constantly adjusting the images from the same starting point why not save it as a preset in LR? I understand one preset doesn't fit all, but it would speed up your workflow ever so slightly. Especially when you're editing a lot of scans.
Medium format A7Riv macro scanner here, and I don't recommend using pixel shift. Compared to a regular 60mp raw file, the pixel shifted ARQ files are 4x the size, but do not resolve any additional detail. Where you formerly had one pixel, you now have four, but they are all the same. That said, I do still take a pixel shifted shot of every frame, even though it does nothing, because my OCD is more comfortable with buying more hard drives than it is with potentially not having an immeasurably small data advantage. If you'd like to see some comparison files I'm happy to share.
Pixel Shift Olympus cameras will give you 60-80MB files with hi-res mode. You mostly don't need all that resolution but it's good to have. A used E-M1 II is in the $500 range making it a no brainer for scanning. I sold my V700 and use this exclusively. There's a ton of $10-15 film holders & $15 light pads on ebay.
Yooo Thank You For Uploading This, Bro Dropping Pure Gems With Visual Examples I've Been Contemplating Scanning With My Sony a7rii So The Fact That You Use One Is So Clutch!
I find DSLR scanning the best method for scanning 135 and 120 film at home. I get the most detail out of my 135 film which has made me take it out more on photowalks. With 35mm, I can get a 16x20 print without major detail loss. Just from a frame off my point and shoot camera, I can get so much info off a digital scan. For 120, if I stitch my images, I can get 30 inches long-edge images, which makes it perfect for 20x24 prints. I don't stitch all my 120 images and find one-shot is good enough for web and small prints. This is from my 26mpx DSLR. I can't wait to upgrade to a Sony Mirrorless with a larger sensor to see what I can get.
Hi Jason, really like the videos. Also are you still using the XAS for 35mm. I am thinking over the best way forward re scanning. I have an Epson V850 and want to have higher dpi resolution for my 35mm negs as want to print large prints. One thing in terms of DPI how can you calculate what DPI you get from a DSLR camera of varying mega pixels in comparison to my existing Epson or XAS which i have read in terms of actual resolution is about 2400dpi. Eg will my 36mp Nikon D800 have a higher DPI than the scanner. I have read far and wide and cant see a technical way to quantify this. Would appreciate your comments.
Really great video. I appreciate that you covered all the formats you shoot. I've been 'scanning' with a Nikon ES-2 attached to a 60 micro nikkor (the older AF-D). One reason I haven't gotten into more medium format is because it looks annoying to scan. Care to share the advantages you get from using the XAS for scanning 35mm vs using your other rig or a device like the ES-2? Seems you would be a little more consistent across formats, but maybe the XAS is just much less of a PIA.
I am testing a d810 with a micro-nikkor 60mm f2.8 D on a light table with great results. I am waiting for my ES-2 to arrive to keep the negatives in place and in good focus. Hopefully my results will be even better.
I don't know much about sharpening scanned film images but sharpening my digital files in Lightroom is worse than color grading video footage in MS paint frame by frame. I find the "selective sharpening" tool in Photoshop much better. And you don't this weird digital noise from Lightroom's sharpening. I feel like, I saw it in your images as well. Loved the video, as always!
I never tried the DSLR method, but the process and workflow would seem slow to me. I use a Plustek for 35mm film and the v600 for 120 film. The v600 is terrible for 35mm film, but pulls a lot of detail from 120 film. The Plustek is a game changer for 35mm film. I guess a lot depends on how much film a person shoots and how much time they have to develop and scan it.
guilty of the "hell yeah" ass slap
Same here!! Also you should collaborate.
Hell yeah
Fuck yeah I'd slap my ass watching that
Aren't we all?
Same.
My neighbor gave me a Nikon Coolscan 4000 he found on the street knowing I'm into tech and thinking it was an old pc. I bought a firewire card and it worked. That scanner sparked my interest for shooting film.
Great job man the best "semi pro" way to digitalize film
Imposter
Holy shit he just found it? LOL very cool dude enjoy the scanner!
@@b4rt89 better than the prime film xas?
wow that's the most unique way I've seen someone get into film
Baxter's appearances:
1. 1:00
2. 4:02
3. 17:15
Thanks guys,
See ya next time
Oh my god
Thanks again, you little and lovely bitch
A thank you
@@hecmca no hay de que
❤💚💙💜🧡💛🖤😇
I think this might be the best end card you've ever made. Literally the height of your work.
FYI: When shooting close-up, diffraction occurs much sooner than on normal distances. Becuase of this, shooting at f8 is probably going to be sharper than f11!
One tip for lightroom. In the sharpening tool you can choose what you want to sharpen. Just hold opt or alt on your keyboard while dragging the masking slider and you can sharpen more or less selectively depending on what the picture calls for.
Great video btw!!!
It's always crazy to see 35mm and 120 side by side. The 120 is so huge in comparison.
I use the Essential Film Holder from Brit photographer Andrew Clifforth - £90 odd quid netted me 35mm and 6x9cm masks. It's glassless, no metal and works perfectly. Way cheaper than the holder you mentioned and works seamlessly. I scan with a Sigma SD Quattro H and 70mm f2.8 DG 'Art' lens. The Foveon combo has a 51mp equivalent resolution to Bayer and records colour at every pixel site. The usual daylight balance light pad and Negative Lab Pro completes the deal to swallow up what the Fuji GW690 MkI, Topcon RE Super, Leica M3 DS, Leica IIIf, Pentax SV, Ricoh TLS EE, Canon 50e and Canon 300v chuck out. Happy days.
That transition to the sponsor was smooooooth! Great vid! Thanks 😊
I’m addicted to your channel (and now Bad Flashes!). This was such a good tutorial! Because of your videos, I got hooked on film and am (as of today!) the proud owner of a Pentax 6x7 with the 75mm and 105mm lenses. Thank you!
Flipping the image in the edit indeed helps. Also, changing the background color periodically to black, middle gray, and white also helps recalibrate your eye to the image during the edit.
this is making me rethink last month's v600 purchase
like he said, if you aren't running large prints... v600 is more than enough.
Great purchase! Superior to DSLR scanning in every way except convenience. Imagine taking a picture of your medium format negative with a standard DSLR lens. Bottle neck extravaganca
Agree. Mine is 4 months old.
It stands dusting in the corner, because it scans like shit!
I googled now some info about the scanner. And it shows that the effective dpi is only 1560dpi... which looks believable.
It's also SUPER inconvenient!
Big oof. Horses for courses and all that, but if it were me I'd be looking around for that receipt/order confirmation and seeing if I was still within the returns period. Would you rather have something that only digitises your negatives or something that can do all of that but can also take photos?
@@yetanotherbassdude the set up in the this video is far more expensive than a v600. you can get a used v600 for under 200 bucks , that barely even pay for a decent stand for a dslr setup. If you have a perfect photo (that you want to get printed huge) and you are shooting 120 , you would probably want to send it off to get drum scanned any how.
I love you man! the dry humor is cherry on top of the info content
BUT HOW DO YOU GET THE FILM FROM THE CAMERA TO THE SCANNER
Chemicals? A film room? Does someone do it for you? WHAT IS UP
i think you have to swallow them and then they come out developed from the the other end
Real answer: As far as I'm aware, Jason usually sends them off to a lab to get developed. They send back the developed negatives, which can then be fed to the scanner. Developing at home is really fun but in the case of colour negative film it can be quite tedious, as you have to work with very exact timings and water temperatures. However, black and white development is quite easy to get into and loads of fun!
Have you ever tried to do camera scanning with the emulsion side up (which is the same as flatbed scanners with the emulsion side towards the sensor)? The image needs to be flipped in post but seemingly gives better detail.
I would recommend this also. Your lens will then be focused purely on the image itself and not through a layer of film. You will typically find this to provide an even sharper image. Just remember to flip horizontal in post.
Epson V850 optical resolution 4800 plus wet mount gives you incredible scans.
The flipping of the image to reset was great advice. Gonna try that.
I don't even shoot film, but this one tip made me glad I watched the video to the end!
"It's been long enough"
Honestly, i wish it was longer. I really lose track of my surroundings and merge with your work in the video.
Keep it up, i absolutely love your channel.
(Maybe it could be interesting if you'd upload longer and unfiltered projects on a second channel.)
I use a full Negative Supply scanning rig with the A7Riii. Pixel shift will likely annoy the shit out of you unless your home has absolutely zero vibration. If my homes a/c is on or my dog is walking through the room pixel shift doesn't produce great results a lot of the time. It's quite sensitive to any sort of minor vibration.
Thanks for the heads up, I didn't know that. Luckily, I live in a quite rural area a mile away from the next busy street, and I have no pets.
I totally agree about the fact that digitising is a developing (heh) thing. I have only just in the last few months gotten close to something I am more or less happy with. Won't bore with more details than necessary, but would recommend 3 pieces of affordable and one 'affordable monthly payments forever' piece of kit.
1) Can't afford a macro lens? Nifty 50 with extension tubes.
2) Pixl-latr negative holder - effective and cheap, and does 135 up to 4x5
3) Kaiser's bargain basement copy stand is far cheaper than other, admittedly slightly sturdier, models
4) Nikon D780 has the same auto neg scanning mode as the D850. It does auto inversion and creates a good looking JPEG, allowing me to digitise a whole roll in less than 10 minutes. Good enough for the internet and book sized printing. Thank you, Nikon gods.
That flip horizontal trick. Mind. Blown. Thank you for that. I get in my own head editing so often.
That flip horizontally trick was super good, i know this works for drawing but never thought of trying it for color balancing. Thanks!
For DSLR scanning print film, the type of backlight also matters a lot. I’d recommend using a RGB “white” light instead of a simple white led, which has a blue peak due to how white leds are made today. Other than making you a better gamer, a RGB backlight also better mimics an enlarger head because they both have RGB peaks and consequently better channel separation. Pro monitors also use pseudo RGB backlights for their superior color reproduction. I constantly achieve better results with RGB when scanning my negs, although slides not so much.
@Konstantin P. nah
I know this is so minor, but I always admire the opening credits you make, they look so lovely. Not gonna lie, I've been considering DSLR/mirrorless scanning, but seeing the ease of your workflow makes me look at my V550 with disdain hahahah. And that flip horizontal tip was really clutch. Definitely stuffing that one in the cornucopia
fyi I do macro work on DSLRs, unrelated to film. I will say that pixel shift is really not useful, even with a perfectly static subject. If you want higher resolution, take multiple shots and stitch like you do for 8x10. It will get you much better quality than pixel shift ever will. If you cant magnify the image enough, you can either upgrade lenses (the laowa 100mm 2x macro is my suggestion) or just slap on some extension tubes for very little money.
Also for the newton rings, its cause by the interference pattern from your glass. One way you can get around it is by using a "frame" around the image. use a flat object with a rectangular hole in the middle. It will keep the object equally as flat, but because it doesnt have the glass, you wont get the internal reflections of the glass.
Agreed. I find it to be pretty useless unless you're in an environment complete void of any tiny vibration. Not even a breeze.
I've never gotten a successful tripod shot outdoors with it. Too fuzzy in the details.
Thank you for the info!
@@grainydaysss thanks for the vids :) I ended up picking up a film camera a month ago because of this channel!
@@asub3292 You're in deep trouble now. That one camera may become 4 or more.
Neat-O. I will have to check if you have an update to this. I have an Epson Perfection V600 Photo. It can do 35mm and 120 with holders. No Newton because the holders keep the negs from touching the glass. It is fantastic. I have a couple RB-67's I thought I would never use again when I got hundreds, maybe thousands of rolls of B&W film from when a college library shut down their wet processing. Pan-X to the modern T-Max and Fuji and Ilford and several more. I do everything in Diaphine so I don't pay much attention to temperature and time. Since I also have their Jobo setup with a bunch of tanks and reels, I use it. I have a good changing bag and don't need a darkroom.
The results are really fantastic.
By the way, I bought a Coolscan and automatic slide feeder - which I had to make feed properly - on eBay. Scanned a couple thousand slides, sold it on eBay for what I paid.
If you take a picture of a negative on color negative film... will you get a positive??
Fully analog scanning haha
Dude you might be on to something with this lmaoooo
Now I need to know what this looks like
I think you just described contact sheet lol
And yes at least with B&W it becomes positive (haven't used it with colour so don't know bout that but I assume so)
I actually tried this a couple weeks ago. Haven't developed that film yet. I can update when it's developed 😅
Yes, you do. Has a weird colour cast but I’ve done it before
Very excellent. The details of individual steps are great - it helps orient newcomers who can be overwhelmed by all the software and hardware options!
I'm going to be re-watching this over the weekend
My workflow has changed through the years.
I’m split between a negative supply setup using my Nikon D7100, an Epson v550 (generally only use it to scan books actually), and my newly obtained Nikon Coolscan 5000.
When using the Epson I was scanning with Silverfast. NLP is used with my DSLR. Lastly I haven’t fully figured out my workflow with the Nikon. I use it within a windows xp VM and then edit them in Lightroom but working on how to get the most out of the scans.
@Frank Silvers this is something I need to try. I own vuescan but never enjoyed using it. I started using Nikon scan because I wanted to see if it could offer any special colour correction that Nikon had baked into the software that wasn’t available in other scanning apps.
@Frank Silvers which part of the instructions are you referring to? I do use the software on a daily basis for scanning other things just don’t enjoy using it.
Are there any sections of the instructions that are the most important. I could read all the instructions but that might also not be relevant to scanning film.
almost $500 for the film holder is absolutely unreal lmao
Get an Essential Film Holder instead at like 1/4 or 1/5th the price & doesn't ruin your negs with the inner feeder wheels. No outer feeder knob on the EFH, but it's actually quicker without it. A great product from the UK.
I use a 3D printed frame that sits on top of a light box or sometimes my iPad with a blank white photo on the display.
I can send you the STL file for 35mm and 120 if you like
@@mpk33 agreed, it’s a fabulous product. Well worth the wait and the designer truly has a passion for helping people digitize.
@@jasonvanajek3307 Could I also receive a copy of the STL file?
@@jarmalmartis4050 look for me on Face Book and message me your email address and I’ll send it to you or email me firstname.lastname@gmail.com
I use the Negative Supply Basic carrier which is $100 and a cheap remote for my A7II from amazon for about $15. I can do a 36 exp roll in under a minute by pulling the film by hand between each shot.
Flash, is it you?
Smashing that like button for the Baxter appearances ;)
I have an unanswered question that just keeps bothering me: what sort of human beings dislike granydays videos? Who are those godd*nm 50 people!
Huge bravo for your channel; it's just one piece of wonder.
Handy tips - mask out your light box to format size
I use a lens hood myself
And use a accurate bubble level to set film
And camera true to each other.
Hopper inspiration is Excellent 👌
I don't have a 35mm, but I can't stop watching your videos over and over again
The flip horizontally tip is a great idea. Thanks!
I've started doing SLR scans for 120 film. I do the same setup that you have but I take it with a Nikon FM2 35mm and then I get that developed and scanned at a lab
I was not prepared for how funny this video would be
Great setup.. I also have the Primefilm for 35mm but I use the Epson V800. 6x7 film gets 33 actual megapixels at 2300 dpi from the Epson. I am not sure how the DSLR will stack up with this considering its losses for (i) different aspect ratio and (ii) bayer interpolation. But I don't have a DSLR...
16:15 this tip is is absolute Gold!
Dude this is an older video but I really enjoyed you diving into the geeky stuff. You’re a much better photographer than you let on and I steal a lot from your visual style haha. Keep up the good work!
No film negative is the finished image. All negative films are designed to be printed onto photochemical paper. They might have been optimized to be easier to scan but that doesn’t change the fact, that if you’re after the inherent film look, you’re gonna have to look at analog prints. This is especially true for color negative film where the choice of paper or the way it’s scanned has at least as much, if not more of an effect on the way colors are rendered than the original choice of film stock. The Fuji Frontier does a pretty good job at getting colors and contrast to look like the image has been printed on photochemical paper. NLP has a LUT that can get you there in combination with the Frontier color model.
your commentary got me holdin my laughs in class😭😭 the main reason i follow you
Million thanks to you my friend. One of the best blogger on youtube 👍🏻
I use the same light pad! Except I modified it by the guts out and build a more robust light bed under it (using a 16x12 metal picture frame) it lifts the diffusion and I wired a bunch of RGB + Daylight & Tungsten LED to an aluminum base … it was kinda expensive and a lot of work but it makes an enormously high dynamic range white light, but I could jack up certain channels if I want to warm up the scan … would be interesting in B & W too. I scan with a Sigma SD1 … love this setup
To do this right you need to use high end LED made for film and television … high CRI 96+
Excellent video! Have you done a video on printing digital images? I’m struggling with how to get good B&W digital prints that have the same feel as traditional darkroom prints.
Nice video. I use the 105mm nikor as well. What copy stand are you using?
I think is the Smith-Victor 42" Pro-Duty Copy Stand
This has been my favourite scan and edit video for film. Thanks Baxter's Dad
Many thanks, veery interesting to see a different and practical approach to scanning. Cheers Neil
Thank you for this fantastic Tutorial Jeffrey
I've always thought his name was Jason. However, nevermind.
I had to watch this video twice because it was so informative . I’ve only shot B&W over the years but your videos are inspiring me to try color again. My collection consists of a Mamiya 645 pro tl, Olympus OM2 and a Canon Canonet G-III 17. Thanks.
Thanks a lot! I am just in the process to decide how to scan my 11x14 LF material. There is only one flatbed scanner I know of which can scan that format (Epson Expression 12000 and earlier versions of it), which is very expensive and does cost used still over 1k USD, when you buy a decade old one. Or I use my Olympus digital camera with a pro prime lens and the 80 MP pixelshift mode. After your video I think my first try will include to buy a copy stand.
What light table are you using? So many of the light tables on Amazon have a poor CRI, aren't bright enough, and have light banding from cheap LEDs.
He’s using a Kaiser slimlite light table. They are 5000K and 95 CRI
While it is by no means professional, I have 3D printed a 120 film holder for DSLR scanning and it works really well! For a hobbyist it works great and I get quick, cheap, and easy results!
VueScanTip for RAW dustremoval:When Scanning RAW the resulting RAW does not have the IR dust removal step applied, unless you have the right settings (he has not in the video).
So under the "Output" Tab change the option "Raw output with” from “Scan” to "Save". I think thats why he might has disabled the dustremoval option completly.
You can fluid mount 8x10 directly on the scanner glass to get rid of the Newton Rings. 8x10 on a flatbed around 2400dpi is insane detail and much easier then the stiching in photoshop IMO.
'Good video! I admit I've tried to get into the concept of scanning film but I just can't get my head around it. When I shoot film (mostly 120 but sometimes 35) I process/print in the darkroom. For me the big difference is I shoot film when I plan to make prints; I shoot digital when they are going to end up on the computer...and probably never be seen again. ;)
i started focusing in photography from over a year or so and you just answered many many many questions i had and couldn't find a real answer to in photography in general so thank you
You can also add some infrared cleaning in your raw dng. Then in the output tab under “Raw output with:” click Save instead of scan. Finally you hit save at the bottom
Nice to see that Baxter is letting you share his editing secrets!
Really great presentation of information!
My local library has that exact Epson scanner. Trying it out as I watch this
Great workflow.
I tether to my MBP so I don't need the 2 sec delay on the camera. And it dumps my images to my computer so I skip the step of transfer from the card.
I frowned at the cost of the Negative Supply holder and ended up with the Essential Film holder with a mask for 35mm and 120mm. It works well, no complaints yet.
Do you ever wipe the film with a microfiber cloth before scanning?
You did not mention if you scan the emulsion side towards the sensor.
Love the paracord wrist strap hanging off that vertical setup.
well, i just found your channel, and with the absolute deadpan delivery on that taco bell joke i had to immediately pause the video, subscribe, and write this. your content looks amazing, keep it up!
Just discovered your videos. Your humor resonates with me. I think I love you.
Anyways, thanks for the tips!
我一般是寄去冲扫店扫描Hasselblad X5，得到.fff文件，再用PhotoShop去色罩，然后矫正白平衡，之后再调整对比或者高光阴影或者曝光。
Took me a solid minute to realize that 35mm shot you edited was from my hometown, wasn't expecting to see those wall murals.
Thanks for covering 8x10, and implicitly everything above 120 (including 4x5, and hopefully this comment will get you a few more hits on the algorithm for that, but 4x5 and 5x7 may be bigger audiences than 8x10). Those retractable sharpies are the bomb, but are you doing something photographically with them? ... beyond looking cool
The details on the LR steps was very useful to see.
Check out the Lumix S1r for a scanning camera. sensor shift and a large sensor. usually can pick up cheap used. Lenses are very sharp as well.
Wouldn't say that 2k used for just the body is cheap.
fujifilm blimp is back, W. Also thanks for sharing your thoughts while you were editing, that's honestly the most interesting part of the artistry.
Dude this video helped me so much with my editing. Would you ever do one showing your B&W technique?
B&H Photo shows the specs Optical Resolution at 10,000 dpi for the Primefilm xas. 🤔 Wondering if there are different models?
Question: if your constantly adjusting the images from the same starting point why not save it as a preset in LR? I understand one preset doesn't fit all, but it would speed up your workflow ever so slightly. Especially when you're editing a lot of scans.
because the video would have been over in 15 seconds
@@ironmonkey1512 q
Medium format A7Riv macro scanner here, and I don't recommend using pixel shift. Compared to a regular 60mp raw file, the pixel shifted ARQ files are 4x the size, but do not resolve any additional detail. Where you formerly had one pixel, you now have four, but they are all the same.
That said, I do still take a pixel shifted shot of every frame, even though it does nothing, because my OCD is more comfortable with buying more hard drives than it is with potentially not having an immeasurably small data advantage.
If you'd like to see some comparison files I'm happy to share.
You should the Plustek scanners. mega happy with the 8200i
Pixel Shift Olympus cameras will give you 60-80MB files with hi-res mode. You mostly don't need all that resolution but it's good to have. A used E-M1 II is in the $500 range making it a no brainer for scanning. I sold my V700 and use this exclusively. There's a ton of $10-15 film holders & $15 light pads on ebay.
Your opener slaps. Peak Grainy Days
Thanks for talking about effective resolution. It was helpful as I consider a scanner for 35mm negatives. New visitor, enjoyed the humor.
More scanning video. Good to see the Fuji Blimp back in action.
Yes! love the Primefilm XAs, hidden gem.
What is the max print size for scans from this?
@Frank Silvers what do you find to be a sweet spot?
@Frank Silvers thank you so much. This is really helpful!
Glad to know I'm not the only one who likes to "crank dat Soulja Boy " with the sharpening lmao
I used the Epson 4870 Photo (with Silverfast) for scanning up to 4x5 negs - not the best for 35mm - but great for medium and large format!
Have you tried a wet-mount scan directly onto the Epson glass?
I use the Epson mount and wet scan it to that.
Thanks for recommendation of Primefilm :D
bro you never disappoint
Really enjoyed you editing, hope to see more of it
such a good video dude. serious knowledge in this one
I recently bought a Coolscan! 35mm only version. I like it.
Yooo Thank You For Uploading This, Bro
Dropping Pure Gems With Visual Examples
I've Been Contemplating Scanning With My Sony a7rii So The Fact That You Use One Is So Clutch!
Brilliant video Jason thanks man!!
I’m new to the channel. Great content & I really like the semi Steven Wright delivery you bring. I’m hooked.
I find DSLR scanning the best method for scanning 135 and 120 film at home. I get the most detail out of my 135 film which has made me take it out more on photowalks. With 35mm, I can get a 16x20 print without major detail loss. Just from a frame off my point and shoot camera, I can get so much info off a digital scan. For 120, if I stitch my images, I can get 30 inches long-edge images, which makes it perfect for 20x24 prints. I don't stitch all my 120 images and find one-shot is good enough for web and small prints. This is from my 26mpx DSLR. I can't wait to upgrade to a Sony Mirrorless with a larger sensor to see what I can get.
Hi Jason, really like the videos. Also are you still using the XAS for 35mm. I am thinking over the best way forward re scanning. I have an Epson V850 and want to have higher dpi resolution for my 35mm negs as want to print large prints. One thing in terms of DPI how can you calculate what DPI you get from a DSLR camera of varying mega pixels in comparison to my existing Epson or XAS which i have read in terms of actual resolution is about 2400dpi. Eg will my 36mp Nikon D800 have a higher DPI than the scanner. I have read far and wide and cant see a technical way to quantify this. Would appreciate your comments.
Really great video. I appreciate that you covered all the formats you shoot. I've been 'scanning' with a Nikon ES-2 attached to a 60 micro nikkor (the older AF-D). One reason I haven't gotten into more medium format is because it looks annoying to scan. Care to share the advantages you get from using the XAS for scanning 35mm vs using your other rig or a device like the ES-2? Seems you would be a little more consistent across formats, but maybe the XAS is just much less of a PIA.
I am testing a d810 with a micro-nikkor 60mm f2.8 D on a light table with great results. I am waiting for my ES-2 to arrive to keep the negatives in place and in good focus. Hopefully my results will be even better.
@grainydays do you still use the primefilm xas today?
"I can't wait to see what digital cameras they come out with next because, then I can scan my film better."
😂 I am dying
I don't know much about sharpening scanned film images but sharpening my digital files in Lightroom is worse than color grading video footage in MS paint frame by frame. I find the "selective sharpening" tool in Photoshop much better. And you don't this weird digital noise from Lightroom's sharpening. I feel like, I saw it in your images as well. Loved the video, as always!
Great video! Curious to know why you don't use the Sony to scan 35mm as well if you it all set up already.
I never tried the DSLR method, but the process and workflow would seem slow to me. I use a Plustek for 35mm film and the v600 for 120 film. The v600 is terrible for 35mm film, but pulls a lot of detail from 120 film. The Plustek is a game changer for 35mm film. I guess a lot depends on how much film a person shoots and how much time they have to develop and scan it.