2016 chevy sonic...1st time changing timing belt, did it solo...followed these steps with the locking tool kit and hand tools...took me 5hrs...she fired up...drove it across the yard, parked it and celebrated with a cold one...thank you for the video...
Randy, got a tip for you. Instead of crawling underneath to lock engine from turning PUT a short SOCKET in-between both the INTAKE and EXHAUST cams. Line up your CAM timing MARKS and SLIDE short SOCKET in-between. Works like a CHARM.
Bought the same cheap timing kit. I've been battling getting the cam lock tool in, thought I ordered the wrong one. looks like I'll be grinding it down like you guys did. Thanks for the video!
That kit works perfectly. Just need to rotate the intake cam slightly if you'rd at TDC and cant get em to fit. The valve springs seem to make the camshaft rotate slightly, making it harder to insert.
In your opinion would you say this is one of the more difficult timing belt jobs? I've been told aside from the alignment tool, that there are some torque bolts that some shops consider a liability? Dealerships is my area are asking $1200 to $1500 to do this job, some shops won't tackle it.
this was good but it was hard to see where the tool to lock the crank fit in. Better light or photos would have helped. Either way it was a very good video that made replacing the timing belt east
I'm doing the same job right now, and the cam locking tool doesn't fit between the cam timing pulleys. I'm not sure why you ground BOTH pieces down though. Grinding (or milling) just the side with the keyway seems like a better way.
Nice job boys! How long did it take you start to finish did it take? I saw one commenter said 5 hours... I'd like to know just to compare to how much time they'd bill you for at a shop. Looks like if you have all your ducks in a row, maybe two to three hours tops? What do you think? Most shops non-dealer shops want around $70 per hour labor at least, so for four hours (on the outside.... they ought to get it done in about half that) you'd be looking at somewhere between $150 to $300+/- plus parts. You can always save money working on it yourself, IF you have the time and a place to work. Thanks.
it was a few years ago, but I think it was only like three or four hours and that was with no prior experience with this car. If I knew what to do going into it, just a couple hours is feasible
I goes it does take two. I replaced a bad head gasket and now it’s hard to get the new timing belt back on. Also, where did you get that electronic torque wrench?
Good video Clarification- lock the flywheel take off the pulley UNLOCK the flywheel - correct? You didn’t show yourself taking it off but you had to to get the pulleys lined up at the top, yes? Good job filming all that.
What’s up randy, I have a 2”12 Chevy sonic 1.8 stick shift and my clutch master cylinder went out it’s behind the clutch pedal, any videos on how to fix that?
@@HummBabyBaseball i guess ill be doing it this year I have 88,897 of all highway driven miles. i've been running car on I-95 from Florida to New York since day one every 3 months visiting my daughter so she runs about 2200 RPM for 550 miles straight just stopping for gas on these to day trips . I thought I could hold off but I definitely wont ... Thanks for the info.
@@marvinr5054 np. Yeah get it done. My last car was a neon and timing belt broke and bent the valves.. Too hard for me to fix and too expensive to be worth it.
@@HummBabyBaseball I kinda figured that's what would happen if I didn't do the belt by 100k and I plan on giving the car to my daughter and don't want her to have any headaches with it. Its been a good car so far I haven't had to put anything but oil changes into it even the Battery and all 4 tires are original from the day I bought it. Its true what they say about Highway driven cars from the South! They really hold up. Never be afraid to buy a high mileage Southern car.
If you have a 1.4 liter with a turbo then yes you have a timing chain. Personally I would take this engine over the 1.4 because then you do not have a turbo which is just something else to go wrong.
How much did that cost you? Was it worth going to work to make the money plus pay taxes to turn around and give to shop. Because you didn't want to do the job
This is why im buying a tesla, manufactures just install more maint items on purpose cause why would they go this route vs the timing CHAIN on the cobalt that was very successfull???
And you think that 30 000$ battery will last forever? You'll lose 2-3% of its capacity every year. I'd rather change a timing belt every 100K and keeping my range for life of the car.
@@danz1910 Do you work for big OIL? LOL. The batteries are not $30k. Your looking at $10k for a long range battery pack nowadays. For $35k I can infact get a complete "skateboard" with Dual motors and complete chassis/suspension/brakes with 600hp total and 225 miles of range from a company in California to retrofit older cars and trucks with. Imagine swapping them over in 1 day. Thats all the time they said they need. Look up Zero labs automotive. Body on frame classics work the best. Back to your degradation argument... So in 10 years your looking at 25% degradation at most. 300miles - 25% = 225 miles of trouble free driving still! Not like a burnt out old engine and transmission you are worried about making it anywhere if its too hot or cold or passing emissions! In 10 years you will be able to buy a much higher cap battery that will last longer and cost FAR less. On top of having NO real maintenance that whole 10 years! Win win bro. Far easier changing a battery than an engine/transmission and rebuilding them.
@@ryanpetree6475 keep dreaming kid. I'll gladly keep my gas car, and will be much faster from New York to Miami than you, and also trouble free. Go on and buy a new car every 7- 10 years LOL, I'll also gladly keep mine for 20 years, no payments.
@@danz1910 7 - 10 years? Where do you people come up with these stats? LMAO. After 10 years your only 30% down on range at the most if you beat on it hard all the time. In 20 years your at 50% because degradation slows down. In 20 years I cant imagine what kind of an upgrade you would get for the cost of a new engine/transmission! Without the headache of swapping it either. undo 20 bolts in a tesla underneith disconnect main cables and the battery comes out easy peasy. Can you swap in/out a engine/trans in an hour? LOL good luck.
![How To Change Timing Belt [Chevrolet Cruze 1.8L 1st Gen]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FHlmLxMCaYw/mqdefault.jpg)
![How To Change Timing Belt [Chevrolet Cruze 1.8L 1st Gen]](/img/tr.png)
2016 chevy sonic...1st time changing timing belt, did it solo...followed these steps with the locking tool kit and hand tools...took me 5hrs...she fired up...drove it across the yard, parked it and celebrated with a cold one...thank you for the video...
You're doing the lord's work showing what sizes of socket and tools. Most videos never do that. Bless y'all!
Code 52 pop, now watching this video for timing belt replacement 😊
Great job! Efficient steps and no unnecessary extended footage. Straight to the point.
Randy, got a tip for you. Instead of crawling underneath to lock engine from turning PUT a short SOCKET in-between both the INTAKE and EXHAUST cams. Line up your CAM timing MARKS and SLIDE short SOCKET in-between. Works like a CHARM.
Bought the same cheap timing kit. I've been battling getting the cam lock tool in, thought I ordered the wrong one. looks like I'll be grinding it down like you guys did. Thanks for the video!
me too!
How many miles did you get out of the original belt?
You put in the left side in first and then the the right one should slide in easily enough
Can I get a link for the timing kit you had please
What's the tool kit I can't find one
That kit works perfectly. Just need to rotate the intake cam slightly if you'rd at TDC and cant get em to fit. The valve springs seem to make the camshaft rotate slightly, making it harder to insert.
Man, you are a lifesaver. Awesome instructional.
Great video, I'm getting ready to do this to my cruise this weekend.
was that the origional belt you changed? if so what make was it? just wondering if its acdelco or the gates.
By far the best video I seen on one of these timing systems. Thank you
I assume after you removed the crank pulley you also removed the lock tool for fly wheel?
In your opinion would you say this is one of the more difficult timing belt jobs? I've been told aside from the alignment tool, that there are some torque bolts that some shops consider a liability? Dealerships is my area are asking $1200 to $1500 to do this job, some shops won't tackle it.
So many videos don't show the engine startup, I'm glad your's did. Now then, do you want to do my sister's car??
Thanks for posting this, especially it's right to the point without some annoying music. Did you replace the water pump also?
You guys made it look easy. Thanks for sharing the video.
When you turned the crank a bit, did you take off the stop at the flywheel
this was good but it was hard to see where the tool to lock the crank fit in. Better light or photos would have helped. Either way it was a very good video that made replacing the timing belt east
I'm doing the same job right now, and the cam locking tool doesn't fit between the cam timing pulleys. I'm not sure why you ground BOTH pieces down though. Grinding (or milling) just the side with the keyway seems like a better way.
What tool to lock the flywheel did you use?!
Nice job boys! How long did it take you start to finish did it take? I saw one commenter said 5 hours... I'd like to know just to compare to how much time they'd bill you for at a shop. Looks like if you have all your ducks in a row, maybe two to three hours tops? What do you think? Most shops non-dealer shops want around $70 per hour labor at least, so for four hours (on the outside.... they ought to get it done in about half that) you'd be looking at somewhere between $150 to $300+/- plus parts. You can always save money working on it yourself, IF you have the time and a place to work. Thanks.
it was a few years ago, but I think it was only like three or four hours and that was with no prior experience with this car. If I knew what to do going into it, just a couple hours is feasible
I made the same intake exactly the same way you did. I couldn't justify the price of aftermarket ones.
I goes it does take two. I replaced a bad head gasket and now it’s hard to get the new timing belt back on. Also, where did you get that electronic torque wrench?
By the way if you don't get what I mean .... the intake side of the locking tool is designed to go over the raised edge on the intake cam phaser
Why did u change belt? How many miles should u? Are Chevy engines noninterference? Great video.👍
Good video
Clarification- lock the flywheel take off the pulley UNLOCK the flywheel - correct? You didn’t show yourself taking it off but you had to to get the pulleys lined up at the top, yes?
Good job filming all that.
Isnt there a way to lock the serpentine belt open?
Had the same problem with that locking tool. What a pain! doesn't fit unless you grind it.
Thanks guys very well done 👏
Just curious of the symptoms of the car. It appeared that the timing belt was not broken, so why was it changed.
Probably preventative maintenance
Timing belts are something you inspect and replace before they go bad because when they go bad they break and destroy your engine.
Code 52
Great job!
What’s up randy, I have a 2”12 Chevy sonic 1.8 stick shift and my clutch master cylinder went out it’s behind the clutch pedal, any videos on how to fix that?
You are awesome!
I have a 2014 how many miles can you get out the original belt before having to change it?
According to the manual, 97,500 miles.
@@HummBabyBaseball i guess ill be doing it this year I have 88,897 of all highway driven miles. i've been running car on I-95 from Florida to New York since day one every 3 months visiting my daughter so she runs about 2200 RPM for 550 miles straight just stopping for gas on these to day trips . I thought I could hold off but I definitely wont ... Thanks for the info.
@@marvinr5054 np. Yeah get it done. My last car was a neon and timing belt broke and bent the valves.. Too hard for me to fix and too expensive to be worth it.
@@HummBabyBaseball I kinda figured that's what would happen if I didn't do the belt by 100k and I plan on giving the car to my daughter and don't want her to have any headaches with it. Its been a good car so far I haven't had to put anything but oil changes into it even the Battery and all 4 tires are original from the day I bought it. Its true what they say about Highway driven cars from the South! They really hold up. Never be afraid to buy a high mileage Southern car.
The bar is for when you need to remove the cam gears
Where u get the maf sensor adapter for that air filter , i need to buy one for my sonic thanks
He said he made it out of a stock airbox
You had the intake part or the tool in there backwards.. that's why it didn't fit
I was told by a mechanic shop that my 2017 Sonic has a chain and not a belt.
Is that possible?
If you have a 1.4 liter with a turbo then yes you have a timing chain. Personally I would take this engine over the 1.4 because then you do not have a turbo which is just something else to go wrong.
Thank you
Thats the water pump you need to change it
Nope nope nope. Buying a new car 😂
=r in.
Fvck this im just take it to the shop
How much did that cost you? Was it worth going to work to make the money plus pay taxes to turn around and give to shop. Because you didn't want to do the job
Cheahhhh
This is why im buying a tesla, manufactures just install more maint items on purpose cause why would they go this route vs the timing CHAIN on the cobalt that was very successfull???
Timing chains don't last forever...
And you think that 30 000$ battery will last forever? You'll lose 2-3% of its capacity every year. I'd rather change a timing belt every 100K and keeping my range for life of the car.
@@danz1910 Do you work for big OIL? LOL. The batteries are not $30k. Your looking at $10k for a long range battery pack nowadays. For $35k I can infact get a complete "skateboard" with Dual motors and complete chassis/suspension/brakes with 600hp total and 225 miles of range from a company in California to retrofit older cars and trucks with. Imagine swapping them over in 1 day. Thats all the time they said they need. Look up Zero labs automotive. Body on frame classics work the best. Back to your degradation argument... So in 10 years your looking at 25% degradation at most. 300miles - 25% = 225 miles of trouble free driving still! Not like a burnt out old engine and transmission you are worried about making it anywhere if its too hot or cold or passing emissions! In 10 years you will be able to buy a much higher cap battery that will last longer and cost FAR less. On top of having NO real maintenance that whole 10 years! Win win bro. Far easier changing a battery than an engine/transmission and rebuilding them.
@@ryanpetree6475 keep dreaming kid. I'll gladly keep my gas car, and will be much faster from New York to Miami than you, and also trouble free. Go on and buy a new car every 7- 10 years LOL, I'll also gladly keep mine for 20 years, no payments.
@@danz1910 7 - 10 years? Where do you people come up with these stats? LMAO. After 10 years your only 30% down on range at the most if you beat on it hard all the time. In 20 years your at 50% because degradation slows down. In 20 years I cant imagine what kind of an upgrade you would get for the cost of a new engine/transmission! Without the headache of swapping it either. undo 20 bolts in a tesla underneith disconnect main cables and the battery comes out easy peasy. Can you swap in/out a engine/trans in an hour? LOL good luck.