I want to elaborate on a few things that would make this job 100% better. This is what you should do: 1. Empty the coolant 2. Cut the aluminum pipes from the heater core 3. Remove heater core (toss across the yard) 4. Use the rubber hose and loop the inlet and outlet pipping (Securing the rubber hose with clamps) 5. Do 2 coolant flushes and make sure there isn't anymore jelly gunk in the system ( there is a drain plug that you twist on the passenger side of the radiator, but you have to removed the plastic engine guard from underneath the vehicle first) 6. Install new heater core like the video shows. 7. Add All make and model antifreeze. I would not recommend using the "manufacturer recommendation" because you'll end up having the same problem.
@@chxmpionbeats4824 There will be be fluid coming out of that no matter what, even if you do a flush; however, it would be much less. You might get away with just having a towel, but i am unsure.
I watched this video not long ago, finally after 2 winters I got this done the exact way in my wife’s avenger. And the heat works AMAZING Now. Only took about an hour and a half to get done.
Thats exactly who i did it for lol. Hope she enjoys the heat! It really isnt all that bad of a job. Now, if we had to take apart the whole dash, that would not be fun.
Taking out the whole dash is the reason it took so long as I did not want to deal with the hassle and a potentially 1200$ bill from a shop. Thank you again for the content.
Thanks for doing this. At 8:08, it looks like there may be room to have a longer gap between the new core and the original pipes. The longer the gap, the easier to get the connecting hoses in position.
After clamping the hoses I spliced in 2 ball valves in both inlet and outlet hoses under the hood. 2013 Chrysler 200 V6. This way I can shut off coolant to the core anytime I need to.
Thanks for the video...I just started having coolant leaking into my drivers side floor board. I was dreading the job until this video. I'll let you know how it goes..going to tackle it today.
I just bought a 2013 Dodge Avenger and had this issue. You helped me save so much money! I just completed the project, and curious if you have to flush the system to get any air pockets out.
I would recommend that you do. I’m glad I was able to help! If you haven’t, I would also recommend tightening the clamps as hard as you can without ripping the hose for precautions.
I'm having trouble, thus have some questions. What is the outside diameter of the hose you used? How long were the pieces of hose you ended up with? Did you put it on the heater core pipe first, then on the firewall pipe or the other way around? I'm thinking of doing the loop and leaving it that way for awhile. It's 100° here during the day and is only dropping to the mid 70's at night. I'm not going to want heat for some time. Thank you.
Thanks for the short cut. Sorry you've had such bad luck. I have just over 200k on our Chrysler 200 (same car) and besides for rear toe link bushings being done a couple times it's been a great car
I have over 200,000 on my 2012 Dodge Avenger sxt plus. I never had a major problem. My heat is lukewarm so I will try flushing it first. If still no hot heat than I will R&R heater core. Thanks for the video.
I would replace the thermostat first before replacing the heater core- especially on a vehicle with over 200k. Little or no heat screams thermostat- I replaced my 12' 200S therm at 79k for heat that was slightly warm at best; $10 and 30 minutes later had boiling heat coming from the vents.
@@Alan-tr5uj I changed the thermostat before everything still no heat; so I changed the heater core that fixed the problem. I also changed the blend door after all of that because it was making that clicking noise (knocking). Everything is fine now. Thanks for your insights though.
Glad I found this video. I've got problems with uneven heat in my 2012 Avenger. Quick question: Is the replacement radiator a MOPAR replacement or an aftermarket brand? Could you elaborate what brand and where you purchased it. Thank you.
Hey there, I literally just bought a non-oem replacement off of Amazon. If you are doing this job, be sure to do a coolant flush before installing the new part. Check out my pinned comment, I go more in-depth on how you should do it. Hope this helps you out
That's a good fast TEMPORARY fix. But I'd much rather do it the right way by removing the dash, just think about if the hose burst inside of the car while you are driving. Yes, it's a cheap quick fix but its not safe. Good tip/video
What would your recommendation be to check next if this did not fix my issue? I already replaced the blend door actuator before trying this. Still not getting hot air out passenger side.
Ok, I tried to use a dremmel instead of multitool (big mistake); I think I cut the air conditioning condensation tube (little grey one) and another really small black wire (don’t know what it is), I went and bought a multi tool to do it right….. and got the hoses in place.
I tightened them pretty tight. If you can, use some sort of socket to tighten in. I believe the aluminum pipe is actually relatively strong. I would say 1 or 2 uga dugas. Ofcourse, be smart. If you feel like you are really over tightening it, you might be.
I would suggest replacing the coolant the next go around. There could be containments throughout it. OR, you might not have bled the system correctly. There is a bleeder valve. I suggest looking up a video on how to bleed the system.
This is a probably a silly question, but here it goes: when our home ac condensation line plugs up I use a wet vac on the end of the line outside to remove the clog. Would this be an option if done on the outlet hose side of a heater core? Just can't afford to replace my heater core right now & trying to figure out other options.
I don’t have my avenger anymore, but here is a crappy video that seems to show where it should be. I’m not 100% if that’s the correct location, though. ruclips.net/video/7Hn5aP7dcPE/видео.html
Could this problem cured by just disconnecting the heater core under hood and flushing the core out with reverse flow using garden hose connected to hot water?
@@AutoMotivate Maybe it would be worth blowing out, capping one end and filling with chemical radiator cleaner (overnight, maybe repeat) then flush with hose in both directions. Should improve flow anyway. Then use regular coolant instead of Chrysler junk. Thanks for your video in any case.
Dodge avengers have a terrible problem with heater cores. I replaced my mom's 2 years ago using this shortcut and now I have to do it again. At least I didn't do it by the book and remove the whole dash.
I know this is an old clip but taking a stab that you will see this...did you smell any type of exhaust smell once your heater core went bad? I have a 2012 with 160,000 miles and every time I run my heat I smell exhaust or what I think smells like exhaust
I have the same problem since my heater core went bad, I actually thought I had an exhaust leak until I realized it was only happening when id try to turn my heat on.
Dealership charged me $1795 CAD to change the heater core on my 2011 Dodge Avenger SXT. Be sure to buy a Mopar heater core and not an aftermarket (they will leak coolant) under pressure. I was told all Dodge's will need a heater core change, meaning the dash has to come out of the car !!! My old heater core was full of GOO !!! Fiat design !!
Yes, I think so. Or it should be. Ofcourse, the panels that you’ll take off would be a bit different, so take your time to not break anything. I wish you luck!
Great video. Saved some big bucks on that. I have a 2012 Chrysler 300 and May try this as I smell coolant in the car suddenly. Any risk associated with the rubber hose used instead of the aluminum pipe? Anyone had the rubber hose leak?
The hoses may leak, but it’s a pretty tight fit. Just be sure to really tighten the bolts on the straps nicely with a socket. If you replaced the hole heater core, you’ll have to take out all of the dash. Not easy. I wish you luck man.
No huge problems besides I didn’t tighten one of them tight enough. I would use a socket to tighten the clamps instead of a Phillips screw driver, and you will be good.
If u flush the coolant every 5 yrs or less. U won't have a clogged heater core. Mine is clogged n sweating. Can smell the antifreeze. But coolant level doesn't drop as I can tell.
Anyone done this to a 2008 Avenger. Once dash and side panels are removed there is a pretty heavy piece of plastic still hiding the core and the pipes. Looks like that could be a real problem and that core wont come out unless it is removed. dont want to break some thing that may be important.
Ok I am 2 minutes in. Why, when replacing coolant components, would you not drain the ststem ENTIRELY. If there was a problem in the heater core it's likely due to a clog, meaning you have contaminates in the system. Not to mention you literally added to the contamination by cutting into metal pipes... I mean if you're desprate, this will get you through a winter or 2... Redseal's have higher expectations than amateurs i suppose.
Yes I do.from the factory when the engine is cast sand is left in the waterways of the engine.it eventually settles in the heater core plugging it up.also up to 2012 the anti freeze reccomended by dodge chrysler sucks and leaves residue in the system that eventually clogs it.in 2013 they switched the factory reccomended anti freeze because of this.2012 is hote 2013 is oat anti freeze.so 2 separate ways for heater cores to get plugged.
What do you thing of getting some female compression fittings instead of using a rubber hoes? I wouldn't possibly pull apart in the cabin of the car. It's just a thought
I had the same problem with a 2012 200. The problem is the Chrysler G5 antifreeze Made by Xerox. It turns to jello. Switch To all makes all models antifreeze. On Third heater core. Dealer did a cheater Job to switch heater core 1st and 2nd. Broke the heater temp door. I had to pull The whole dash myself to replace heater Box. Dont use the G5.
I should have elaborated in my video, but a coolant flush is essential and I actually swapped to a all make and model antifreeze myself. Sorry you have to do all that! Chrysler 200 is basically the same car.
Awesome video but Although this will work the waybits done is a temporary fix Reason cutting the pipes and using hoses instead of replacing as it should be will in future cause same problem due the old metal ones still being junked up
While this is very cool idea and cheap no way should anyone sell their car like that. If something did happen and 210 degree antifreeze blows under dash, it can scold you and cause severe harm plus car wreck.The idea however is genius. It needs to be perfected with threaded ends and flared for a mechanical seal rather than a hose .However, that still leaves anyone liable if car is ever sold. No way could I do this, but the idea is cool.
Whoever decided this is the "easy" way is clearly not 6' and 210 lbs. If I ever have to change another heater core, I'm ripping out the dashboard and doing it the "right" way - because that's about how long it took me to do it this way.
$800 later. The blend door is stuck open on everyones car who has cold passanger side. No way around it but to take the whole dash apart. Heater core is the majority problem but bout 40% is the stuck open blend door. Especially if you have the clicking actuator. Sign that the door is sticking open. Fk Chrysler
I’d say 95% of the time when the blend door goes out there is that clicking. And, that’s why I made this video so no one needs to spend $800+ on this job. Trying to help others save money 🙏
@@AutoMotivate you have to make one on removing and unsticking the blend door itself as wel . It wasn't until it was taken apart we saw the actual door stuck open letting cold outside air in mixing with the hot heater core air!. Thanks for this, cause something is better than nothinf!
Kincaids Transmissions oh no, ofcourse not. However, the Avenger is a cheaper car. The correct way to do it would cost around 1/5 the cost of the car at a shop.
@@AutoMotivate Guess if its personal vehicle it works. My biggest concern would be if the lines blew off or split then run the risk of hot coolant spewing on you.
I thought of that, too. However, I haven’t had an issue. Also, if it did start to leak, there is a plastic cover over the heater core that would prevent if from spitting directly on your foot.
The stupid factory doesn’t clean the engine from the sand that used for molding the engine and end up the sand stay inside n flow with coolant and block the heater you check the reservoir n you’ll find out the sand all over ,stupid
Its not sand. The problem is the manufacturer of the the heater core or radiator(Chrysler never figured out which one was the culprit) never cleaned the welding flux out and it reacted with the coolant and turns into white sludge. Chrysler actually told us to flush the new heater cores and radiators with water before installing to clean out any flux. The sludge will never come out and will clog the heater core again. I flushed the hell out of my wifes 200 at 10k miles and replaced the heater core, radiator and oil cooler and when it was time for a cylinder head at 60k I found the white sludge still coated inside the engine block water jackets. Needs another heater core now at 130k.
Dont Do that. Sérieux c'est vraiment pas professionnel j'ai juste utiliser un tournevis pour enlever les hose du Heather core tu mets le nouveau remets les hose punch avec un marteau ça prend 1hrs pis tas pas l'air d'un cave devant le client a coupé les hose
I do baby and i don't. Lol. Im at almost 100,000 miles. One thing that pissed me off was i had the Occupant Restraint module changed in 2016 with the recall and it went again in 2019.
🤦♂️ Of course. Such an odd thing to go out, aswell. The Avenger engine is pretty strong, but everything else on the car is pretty cheap. Plastic pieces in the car are breaking, the paint is already fading on the roof and trunk(yes, I wax the car appropriately), paint coming off from under the hood, the washer fluid lines broke twice, and the transmission went out at 60k.
Yeah it needs room for improvement thats for sure. But i fell in love with the look and the stance. I know you shouldn't fall in love with a money pit but im definitely going to be doing mods on this car once its not my daily driver. Keep posting vids im liking and subscribing Peace
Never ever do this type of repair. Always do the job right way. This is know as a hack job. By cutting the metal pipe you risk debris into the cooling system possibly being able to damage your thermostat or water pump. Always repair as designed.
please take this video down before somebody hurts themselves. I am a red seal technician and the difference between us is that I understand that the engineers designed the heating system not to fail and scold the drivers legs.
Jeremy Farkas this process has been done a thousand times. Not once has anyone reported a “scolded” leg. Just with many short cuts, there are risks. It’s up to the owner to decide whether or not they want to take that risk. This video is out there for the people who can’t afford a thousand dollar repair on a cheap part.
@@AutoMotivate well there is a right way to do things and then there is your way. hopefully no one gets hurt following these retarded instructions. too bad you dont have the neccessary skills to complete this job properly. PS. to any and all interested this method will fail. its only a matter of time. cutting the pipes and doing away with the barbs that hold the hose on, is a very bad idea, even a rad cap failure will produce enough coolant system pressure to blow those shitty connections apart. and then....... scarred for life......if you cant afford the repair......you cant afford your car.
Jeremy. You are wrong. What he did is a good short cut, but his heater core was not a problem. I have 6 avenger/ Sebring, with over a 140-160000 miles on them and never had any major issues!
Rut-row. Someone doesn't like this genius DIY idea. Sad that he didn't take it to your shop? You could've lied to him and said you needed to replace 10 other things as well, but he came up with this intelligent shortcut, and avoided both disassembling his instrument panel and you. :)
Dude no. Not those clamps. The cars vibrate too much and they will loosen and leak. That’s why car mfr’s use pinch rings. The don’t loosen up. Otherwise good job
@@melindaburwell2163 Ive heard about that.They were using cheap coolant that starts to build up gunk and what not. Actuator is also a cause of the passenger side going cold, too. But, that wasnt the case in this video.
@@AutoMotivate this issue had nothing to do with the coolant Chrysler used. The early pentastar engine had an issue with casting sand stuck in the engine block.... this debris eventually ends up in the heater core, radiator and engine oil cooler.
I want to elaborate on a few things that would make this job 100% better. This is what you should do:
1. Empty the coolant
2. Cut the aluminum pipes from the heater core
3. Remove heater core (toss across the yard)
4. Use the rubber hose and loop the inlet and outlet pipping (Securing the rubber hose with clamps)
5. Do 2 coolant flushes and make sure there isn't anymore jelly gunk in the system ( there is a drain plug that you twist on the passenger side of the radiator, but you have to removed the plastic engine guard from underneath the vehicle first)
6. Install new heater core like the video shows.
7. Add All make and model antifreeze. I would not recommend using the "manufacturer recommendation" because you'll end up having the same problem.
What if you cut the pipes to the heater core in the manifold under the hood? And then use some kind of vacuum to vacuum out the gunk?
What's the hose size?
Would step 3 be done before or after applying hammer, hatchet and heels to it?
If I empty the coolant and doing a flush after is there any point in clamping at 2:07 ?
@@chxmpionbeats4824 There will be be fluid coming out of that no matter what, even if you do a flush; however, it would be much less. You might get away with just having a towel, but i am unsure.
This made changing the heater core so much easier! Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
I watched this video not long ago, finally after 2 winters I got this done the exact way in my wife’s avenger. And the heat works AMAZING Now. Only took about an hour and a half to get done.
Thats exactly who i did it for lol. Hope she enjoys the heat! It really isnt all that bad of a job. Now, if we had to take apart the whole dash, that would not be fun.
Taking out the whole dash is the reason it took so long as I did not want to deal with the hassle and a potentially 1200$ bill from a shop. Thank you again for the content.
Shop charges 950-1200 for this job here where I live. That’s the quote I got at more than one place. Will definitely be doing this on our avenger.
I wish you luck. Be sure to tighten the nuts around the hoses with a socket aswell.
For years I’ve been freezing my ass off in the winter but I’m giving this a try tomorrow! Thanks bud
Glad I could help out man! I wish you luck.
Thanks for doing this. At 8:08, it looks like there may be room to have a longer gap between the new core and the original pipes. The longer the gap, the easier to get the connecting hoses in position.
After clamping the hoses I spliced in 2 ball valves in both inlet and outlet hoses under the hood. 2013 Chrysler 200 V6. This way I can shut off coolant to the core anytime I need to.
You opened the coolant system.. did you ever put it under vacuum before adding the coolant?
Thanks for the video...I just started having coolant leaking into my drivers side floor board. I was dreading the job until this video. I'll let you know how it goes..going to tackle it today.
So your oem heatercore busted?? I haven’t heard of that yet. Be sure to secure the clamps very well.
@@AutoMotivate I watched a video I thought was yours. Just completed the test drive. No leaks so far.
Thanks. Saved me 1500 dollars and weeks without my car waiting on the mechanic to get to me car.
Should also use a barb tool, to put a barb on the tube ends. Can also cut the pipes in separate locations so you can use compression fittings.
I just bought a 2013 Dodge Avenger and had this issue. You helped me save so much money! I just completed the project, and curious if you have to flush the system to get any air pockets out.
I would recommend that you do.
I’m glad I was able to help!
If you haven’t, I would also recommend tightening the clamps as hard as you can without ripping the hose for precautions.
Ok, will do. Thanks!
I will be doing this for my dads 2011 doge avenger, thanks for the vid!
Good luck man! Comment back if you get stuck!
Thank you man!!!
I did it and Just take me 1 hour
Its amazing
I'm having trouble, thus have some questions. What is the outside diameter of the hose you used? How long were the pieces of hose you ended up with? Did you put it on the heater core pipe first, then on the firewall pipe or the other way around? I'm thinking of doing the loop and leaving it that way for awhile. It's 100° here during the day and is only dropping to the mid 70's at night. I'm not going to want heat for some time. Thank you.
Thanks for the short cut. Sorry you've had such bad luck. I have just over 200k on our Chrysler 200 (same car) and besides for rear toe link bushings being done a couple times it's been a great car
dude, it gets to -40 in Canada. Great video!
I've found that removing the throttle pedal/sensor from the bulkhead and moving it out of the way gives you a little more room to work.
I have over 200,000 on my 2012 Dodge Avenger sxt plus. I never had a major problem. My heat is lukewarm so I will try flushing it first. If still no hot heat than I will R&R heater core. Thanks for the video.
You must be lucky then! A flush should do the job. If not, you may be due for a new heater core. Thanks for watching man!
Same here. Maybe I'll jinx it but our 200 has been awesome with 200k on it as well
I would replace the thermostat first before replacing the heater core- especially on a vehicle with over 200k. Little or no heat screams thermostat- I replaced my 12' 200S therm at 79k for heat that was slightly warm at best; $10 and 30 minutes later had boiling heat coming from the vents.
@@Alan-tr5uj I changed the thermostat before everything still no heat; so I changed the heater core that fixed the problem. I also changed the blend door after all of that because it was making that clicking noise (knocking). Everything is fine now. Thanks for your insights though.
Glad I found this video. I've got problems with uneven heat in my 2012 Avenger.
Quick question: Is the replacement radiator a MOPAR replacement or an aftermarket brand?
Could you elaborate what brand and where you purchased it.
Thank you.
Hey there,
I literally just bought a non-oem replacement off of Amazon.
If you are doing this job, be sure to do a coolant flush before installing the new part.
Check out my pinned comment, I go more in-depth on how you should do it.
Hope this helps you out
That's a good fast TEMPORARY fix. But I'd much rather do it the right way by removing the dash, just think about if the hose burst inside of the car while you are driving. Yes, it's a cheap quick fix but its not safe. Good tip/video
What would your recommendation be to check next if this did not fix my issue? I already replaced the blend door actuator before trying this. Still not getting hot air out passenger side.
Really smart way to do it
So i have warm air coming from passenger side and cold on driver. Will this fix the issue? Or do i need to change the actuator as well?
This isn't the same as the AC evaporator core correct? My AC is not working and that's what I need to replace
AC evaporator is in front of the radiator. Easier fix then this
Will this work for cold air too or just heat?
Ok, I tried to use a dremmel instead of multitool (big mistake); I think I cut the air conditioning condensation tube (little grey one) and another really small black wire (don’t know what it is), I went and bought a multi tool to do it right….. and got the hoses in place.
My question is: do you know if the little black wire is heating related
Long shot youre still reading these. But how tight should the clamps be? I have a leak there but dont want to crush the pipes, seems like a soft metal
I tightened them pretty tight. If you can, use some sort of socket to tighten in. I believe the aluminum pipe is actually relatively strong. I would say 1 or 2 uga dugas.
Ofcourse, be smart. If you feel like you are really over tightening it, you might be.
I have performed this procedure twice and now I have to do it again is there a reason I need to keep changing the heater core?
I would suggest replacing the coolant the next go around. There could be containments throughout it. OR, you might not have bled the system correctly. There is a bleeder valve. I suggest looking up a video on how to bleed the system.
Thank you for this awesome video!! Just changed mine and the difference really is amazing!
Glad I could help out!
What if you were to cut the pipes in it's in the front fronts and use a vacuum to vacuum the gunk out?
This is a probably a silly question, but here it goes: when our home ac condensation line plugs up I use a wet vac on the end of the line outside to remove the clog. Would this be an option if done on the outlet hose side of a heater core? Just can't afford to replace my heater core right now & trying to figure out other options.
It's worth a try
@automotivate where is your Air Charge Temperature Sensor located on your car I also have a 2012 2.4L avenger
I don’t have my avenger anymore, but here is a crappy video that seems to show where it should be. I’m not 100% if that’s the correct location, though.
ruclips.net/video/7Hn5aP7dcPE/видео.html
What's the diameter of the hose size? 3.6L
Did you find it out ?
No.
I'm guessing maybe it's the same size as the inlet & outlet under the hood?
Could this problem cured by just disconnecting the heater core under hood and flushing the core out with reverse flow using garden hose connected to hot water?
Already tried that. Usually doesn’t cure this problem with this car.
@@AutoMotivate Maybe it would be worth blowing out, capping one end and filling with chemical radiator cleaner (overnight, maybe repeat) then flush with hose in both directions. Should improve flow anyway. Then use regular coolant instead of Chrysler junk. Thanks for your video in any case.
I tried the hose both ways, but I did not try doing what you explained. Not a bad thought, though!
No problem! Thank you for watching!
Dodge avengers have a terrible problem with heater cores. I replaced my mom's 2 years ago using this shortcut and now I have to do it again. At least I didn't do it by the book and remove the whole dash.
I know this is an old clip but taking a stab that you will see this...did you smell any type of exhaust smell once your heater core went bad? I have a 2012 with 160,000 miles and every time I run my heat I smell exhaust or what I think smells like exhaust
I have the same problem since my heater core went bad, I actually thought I had an exhaust leak until I realized it was only happening when id try to turn my heat on.
It's not exhaust..
It's your coolant not not flowing correctly through your heatercore.
Mine does it too
Thanks for the video bout to do it to my wife's car
Dealership charged me $1795 CAD to change the heater core on my 2011 Dodge Avenger SXT. Be sure to buy a Mopar heater core and not an aftermarket (they will leak coolant) under pressure. I was told all Dodge's will need a heater core change, meaning the dash has to come out of the car !!! My old heater core was full of GOO !!! Fiat design !!
Hey buddy do you think the heater core in my 2013 Chrysler 200 3.6 L is at the same spot? On driver side I mean
Yes, I think so. Or it should be. Ofcourse, the panels that you’ll take off would be a bit different, so take your time to not break anything. I wish you luck!
I have a 2013 rt with the same promblem. You should cut the heater core in half and show how clogged it is.
I thought about it, but then I forgot to do it 😂
Great video. Saved some big bucks on that. I have a 2012 Chrysler 300 and May try this as I smell coolant in the car suddenly. Any risk associated with the rubber hose used instead of the aluminum pipe? Anyone had the rubber hose leak?
The hoses may leak, but it’s a pretty tight fit. Just be sure to really tighten the bolts on the straps nicely with a socket.
If you replaced the hole heater core, you’ll have to take out all of the dash. Not easy.
I wish you luck man.
So have you had any problems with the hoses im thinking about doing this. tia
No huge problems besides I didn’t tighten one of them tight enough. I would use a socket to tighten the clamps instead of a Phillips screw driver, and you will be good.
I would also flush the coolant system if you are doing this job.
Sira video phaji👍
Smart job man thank you 👌
If u flush the coolant every 5 yrs or less. U won't have a clogged heater core. Mine is clogged n sweating. Can smell the antifreeze. But coolant level doesn't drop as I can tell.
Sounds like you need a blend door actuator
My avenger hiss when the car is off, it's a leak somewhere and I hear it behind the radio and the plate, what will that be?
Have the same issue
Anyone done this to a 2008 Avenger. Once dash and side panels are removed there is a pretty heavy piece of plastic still hiding the core and the pipes. Looks like that could be a real problem and that core wont come out unless it is removed. dont want to break some thing that may be important.
Are you wearing eye liner ??
What’s the issue if I am 🤷♂️?
Are the hoses still holding snug?
Yes, be sure to tighten them properly with a socket aswell
Thanks. Gonna do it this weekend on a Chrysler 200
That could be a blend door actuator issue with the air flow
Or the blower motor may be going as well
Ok I am 2 minutes in. Why, when replacing coolant components, would you not drain the ststem ENTIRELY. If there was a problem in the heater core it's likely due to a clog, meaning you have contaminates in the system. Not to mention you literally added to the contamination by cutting into metal pipes... I mean if you're desprate, this will get you through a winter or 2... Redseal's have higher expectations than amateurs i suppose.
Thank you so much
My avenger heater core went out at 120k this is something I will do if s core flush does not work
I always wondered what car you drove🧐
I actually drive a Mustang GT and I have a Astro van now! Ill soon be trading the Dodge for a Tahoe.
I think ill try it this way. Thanks.
Be sure to flush the fluid before you install the new one!
@@AutoMotivate yes. I read your comment. Thanks again man.
I wish you luck. If you have any questions, comment back here or message me on IG.
Bravo! Good idea!
Great video
Thank you! Wish you luck on your project!
Points taken thanks.
does anyone know why these things are going bad left and right?
Yes I do.from the factory when the engine is cast sand is left in the waterways of the engine.it eventually settles in the heater core plugging it up.also up to 2012 the anti freeze reccomended by dodge chrysler sucks and leaves residue in the system that eventually clogs it.in 2013 they switched the factory reccomended anti freeze because of this.2012 is hote 2013 is oat anti freeze.so 2 separate ways for heater cores to get plugged.
I like it.🙂🙂 probably I will do it.
DODGE avenger
Thanos-Who dis?
all fun and games till hot stem antifreeze blows all in side the car ,LOL
What do you thing of getting some female compression fittings instead of using a rubber hoes? I wouldn't possibly pull apart in the cabin of the car. It's just a thought
I had the same problem with a 2012 200.
The problem is the Chrysler G5 antifreeze
Made by Xerox. It turns to jello. Switch
To all makes all models antifreeze. On
Third heater core. Dealer did a cheater
Job to switch heater core 1st and 2nd.
Broke the heater temp door. I had to pull
The whole dash myself to replace heater
Box. Dont use the G5.
I should have elaborated in my video, but a coolant flush is essential and I actually swapped to a all make and model antifreeze myself.
Sorry you have to do all that! Chrysler 200 is basically the same car.
Are you doing this in your bedroom? How'd you get your car in there?
Felt like it. Luckily I have a larger garage now.
Good job man
Awesome video but Although this will work the waybits done is a temporary fix
Reason cutting the pipes and using hoses instead of replacing as it should be will in future cause same problem due the old metal ones still being junked up
I spent 600 at 60k cause it was at rhe shop i worked at the dealership wants a arm a leg and a left nut to do it!
Nice hack, this is the way it should have been done from factory.
I agree. Manufacturers never think about the small things
While this is very cool idea and cheap no way should anyone sell their car like that. If something did happen and 210 degree antifreeze blows under dash, it can scold you and cause severe harm plus car wreck.The idea however is genius. It needs to be perfected with threaded ends and flared for a mechanical seal rather than a hose .However, that still leaves anyone liable if car is ever sold. No way could I do this, but the idea is cool.
I see your point. No one has yet commented it has failed. Flaring the end is a smart idea. I did a bit, but definitely it as much as I should have
Definitely not hating. The idea is very smart. A flare tool 4 flare nuts and 2 unions, and you might could sell your idea .
They have milling sand left in all of the motors made that year!!!!!!
Is the petition you can sign online for a recall but I guess enough people ain't signed it yet cuz I know I have
They would have slid if u lubricated them first
I actually did lubricate the longer ones and it didn’t help at all.
Whoever decided this is the "easy" way is clearly not 6' and 210 lbs. If I ever have to change another heater core, I'm ripping out the dashboard and doing it the "right" way - because that's about how long it took me to do it this way.
$800 later. The blend door is stuck open on everyones car who has cold passanger side. No way around it but to take the whole dash apart. Heater core is the majority problem but bout 40% is the stuck open blend door. Especially if you have the clicking actuator. Sign that the door is sticking open. Fk Chrysler
I’d say 95% of the time when the blend door goes out there is that clicking.
And, that’s why I made this video so no one needs to spend $800+ on this job. Trying to help others save money 🙏
@@AutoMotivate you have to make one on removing and unsticking the blend door itself as wel . It wasn't until it was taken apart we saw the actual door stuck open letting cold outside air in mixing with the hot heater core air!. Thanks for this, cause something is better than nothinf!
wow what hack a job.
Says all the money I helped people save.
@@AutoMotivate yeah def wouldnt be allowed in a professional shop tho.
Kincaids Transmissions oh no, ofcourse not. However, the Avenger is a cheaper car. The correct way to do it would cost around 1/5 the cost of the car at a shop.
@@AutoMotivate Guess if its personal vehicle it works. My biggest concern would be if the lines blew off or split then run the risk of hot coolant spewing on you.
I thought of that, too. However, I haven’t had an issue. Also, if it did start to leak, there is a plastic cover over the heater core that would prevent if from spitting directly on your foot.
The stupid factory doesn’t clean the engine from the sand that used for molding the engine and end up the sand stay inside n flow with coolant and block the heater you check the reservoir n you’ll find out the sand all over ,stupid
Its not sand. The problem is the manufacturer of the the heater core or radiator(Chrysler never figured out which one was the culprit) never cleaned the welding flux out and it reacted with the coolant and turns into white sludge. Chrysler actually told us to flush the new heater cores and radiators with water before installing to clean out any flux. The sludge will never come out and will clog the heater core again. I flushed the hell out of my wifes 200 at 10k miles and replaced the heater core, radiator and oil cooler and when it was time for a cylinder head at 60k I found the white sludge still coated inside the engine block water jackets. Needs another heater core now at 130k.
Dont Do that. Sérieux c'est vraiment pas professionnel j'ai juste utiliser un tournevis pour enlever les hose du Heather core tu mets le nouveau remets les hose punch avec un marteau ça prend 1hrs pis tas pas l'air d'un cave devant le client a coupé les hose
Wow you must drive the shit out your car. Ive got a 2013 and its bulletproof. Ive only had to change a wheel bearing.
Nope, since it’s dodge, I baby it trying to get as much life out of it as possible. However, I do drive the shit out of my mustang
I do baby and i don't. Lol. Im at almost 100,000 miles. One thing that pissed me off was i had the Occupant Restraint module changed in 2016 with the recall and it went again in 2019.
🤦♂️ Of course. Such an odd thing to go out, aswell.
The Avenger engine is pretty strong, but everything else on the car is pretty cheap. Plastic pieces in the car are breaking, the paint is already fading on the roof and trunk(yes, I wax the car appropriately), paint coming off from under the hood, the washer fluid lines broke twice, and the transmission went out at 60k.
Yeah it needs room for improvement thats for sure. But i fell in love with the look and the stance. I know you shouldn't fall in love with a money pit but im definitely going to be doing mods on this car once its not my daily driver. Keep posting vids im liking and subscribing Peace
Don't buy Chryslers!!!
🤡
@@neverthrough627yes, that is the people who buy stellantis junk
😂😂😂😢 good .end not good
Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep is a bad choice for cars/trucks....Trash!
Trash cars. Good video tho
Agreed. Sold outs and got a Chevy instead. 2008 Tahoe.
Never work on a car again
Lmao. You the “by the book” kind of person.
If it’s done and working flawlessly, what is the difference?
@@AutoMotivate if it's done right it won't be back in the shop for a redo
@@nahnah6765 hasn’t been back 🫡
@@AutoMotivate yet 😂
Wouldn’t you think it would have failed already if it was so flawed?
Never ever do this type of repair. Always do the job right way. This is know as a hack job. By cutting the metal pipe you risk debris into the cooling system possibly being able to damage your thermostat or water pump. Always repair as designed.
please take this video down before somebody hurts themselves. I am a red seal technician and the difference between us is that I understand that the engineers designed the heating system not to fail and scold the drivers legs.
Jeremy Farkas this process has been done a thousand times. Not once has anyone reported a “scolded” leg. Just with many short cuts, there are risks. It’s up to the owner to decide whether or not they want to take that risk. This video is out there for the people who can’t afford a thousand dollar repair on a cheap part.
@@AutoMotivate well there is a right way to do things and then there is your way. hopefully no one gets hurt following these retarded instructions. too bad you dont have the neccessary skills to complete this job properly. PS. to any and all interested this method will fail. its only a matter of time. cutting the pipes and doing away with the barbs that hold the hose on, is a very bad idea, even a rad cap failure will produce enough coolant system pressure to blow those shitty connections apart. and then....... scarred for life......if you cant afford the repair......you cant afford your car.
Jeremy. You are wrong. What he did is a good short cut, but his heater core was not a problem. I have 6 avenger/ Sebring, with over a 140-160000 miles on them and never had any major issues!
Should have flared the ends of metal lines so the hoses don't blow off.
Rut-row. Someone doesn't like this genius DIY idea. Sad that he didn't take it to your shop? You could've lied to him and said you needed to replace 10 other things as well, but he came up with this intelligent shortcut, and avoided both disassembling his instrument panel and you. :)
Waste of time video
How many times did you waite?
@@AutoMotivate nope as soon as you mentioned cutting the pipe left.
@@Semipr0 have fun removing the entire dash
@@AutoMotivate doing a half-ass job is not worth doing
@@Semipr0 is it half ass if it works just as well?
The right way is only right because the “manufacturer” said it is the right way.
Dude no. Not those clamps. The cars vibrate too much and they will loosen and leak. That’s why car mfr’s use pinch rings. The don’t loosen up. Otherwise good job
Wrong!!!!!! Heater cores last at least 150000, your reason is actuator.... dah
I replaced the heater core, and it fixed the issue. Also, did you not see all that junk fall out?
@@AutoMotivate Yes, it's a known and documented problem on Chrysler products. They think it's related to the long life coolant.
@@melindaburwell2163 Ive heard about that.They were using cheap coolant that starts to build up gunk and what not. Actuator is also a cause of the passenger side going cold, too. But, that wasnt the case in this video.
@@AutoMotivate this issue had nothing to do with the coolant Chrysler used. The early pentastar engine had an issue with casting sand stuck in the engine block.... this debris eventually ends up in the heater core, radiator and engine oil cooler.
@@johnh648 I've heard that too. It doesn't explain why people cut them open and find the orange gelled goo in the right side of the heater core.