I've concluded that "castleing" also causes kinks in your chain in the locker. Once the chain builds up into a pyramid shaped mass in your locker you can hear the chain periodically collapse or roll down the side. This causes the chain, in your locker, to get segment kinks which can then jam when letting out the anchor. I have a swivel on my anchor, but this kinking and jamming occurs in the locker. The windlass gypsy does not allow twisted chain into the locker and I'm convinced the kinked (and "sticky") galvanized chain results from the process described above. Thx for the video!
I tried stainless against all recommendations. First set, 8mm short link, many welds cracked within months of installing. Second set, 10 mm short link, advertised as anchor chain, within 3 months the welds cracked and many actually fell out!! Went back to gal.
An important consideration that you did not mention is galvanic corrosion risks. If you have an aluminum hull, galvanized chain is a big No No! My windless is isolated from my aluminum deck with reinforced nylon flanges, fiber and rubber washers. My anchor rode locker is also aluminum so it is lined with 1/8” rubber sheeting. My rode is of course made from stainless steel chain.
@@martylynchian8628 I would look for 316 stainless but if it's not for a windlass, you can use mooring chain, which isn't as pricey as short link windlass chain.
There are also other factors...the actual type of 316 matters and also, if you are in warm salt water as opposed to cold salt water. There is a lot of research out there about SS anchor chain. A high quality galvanized (note I said high quality, not cheap but if you are seriously anchoring cheap is never the better option) there are lots of issues with SS chain corroding very quickly in a salt water environment. Look to European or NA chain manufacturers, not Chinese.... Good luck Mike
I've concluded that "castleing" also causes kinks in your chain in the locker. Once the chain builds up into a pyramid shaped mass in your locker you can hear the chain periodically collapse or roll down the side. This causes the chain, in your locker, to get segment kinks which can then jam when letting out the anchor. I have a swivel on my anchor, but this kinking and jamming occurs in the locker. The windlass gypsy does not allow twisted chain into the locker and I'm convinced the kinked (and "sticky") galvanized chain results from the process described above. Thx for the video!
I tried stainless against all recommendations. First set, 8mm short link, many welds cracked within months of installing. Second set, 10 mm short link, advertised as anchor chain, within 3 months the welds cracked and many actually fell out!! Went back to gal.
An important consideration that you did not mention is galvanic corrosion risks. If you have an aluminum hull, galvanized chain is a big No No! My windless is isolated from my aluminum deck with reinforced nylon flanges, fiber and rubber washers. My anchor rode locker is also aluminum so it is lined with 1/8” rubber sheeting. My rode is of course made from stainless steel chain.
Which one can I use under water?
I need a chain to be under salt water 24/7. Which material do I use?
@@martylynchian8628 I would look for 316 stainless but if it's not for a windlass, you can use mooring chain, which isn't as pricey as short link windlass chain.
There are also other factors...the actual type of 316 matters and also, if you are in warm salt water as opposed to cold salt water. There is a lot of research out there about SS anchor chain. A high quality galvanized (note I said high quality, not cheap but if you are seriously anchoring cheap is never the better option) there are lots of issues with SS chain corroding very quickly in a salt water environment. Look to European or NA chain manufacturers, not Chinese....
Good luck
Mike
Stainless will snap. Galvanised bends. Also galvanised is stronger (not from China!!!)