Thank you very much. I do understand why it's not done by most as if you only rent the house and it's not owned it wouldn't be possible as well as it is a extremely costly project and can be challenging depending on the structure
Well here is the thing and why I wouldn’t do this, if you were to install this in your home you cannot half a** it, you cannot do it part way. You would have to file it and do it correctly if you didn’t and a fire happens there is going to be a lot of issues. Also if you have it and the fire department shows up and it wasn’t filed with the township here you get a fine. To file it with the township I would need to pull a permit. To pull a permit I need to do it to code. Then when I’m done I’m forced to now have it monitored because the township will expect a Class E system to be monitored. This is why you wouldn’t do this unless you were required to do this typically.
@@Pbell they won't monitor residential customers anymore it's no different than having a security system with smoke detectors as it is a residential installation
@@nics-systems-electric I guess it’s different in Canada. If it was here at least in my Township if you have commercial grade equipment you are held to that standard. If you have residential equipment you are held to that standard. But also in NJ regardless you are required to have an electrical inspection even for a residential system.
@@Pbell it's a low-voltage equipment and if it's not required to be there like it would be in a commercial application it's no different than running security system or speakers low-voltage lighting etc
Just finished up a home system for my place. Not quite as professionally installed as what you have. It’s a full system but it’s conventional Edwards (fire shield 5 zone panel) with CO monitoring and furnace shutdown. It’s nothing too fancy, just enough to protect the wife and I. When we move to our forever home I do plan on installing a full addressable system like what you have here. Nice work man
If i decide to install a Commercial fire alarm system I Would use the Wheelock Safepath Voice Evac system with System Sensor L Series Ceiling and wall Speaker Strobes because it has a modern look than the Wheelock speakers that look like Old Style, if i feel that an area does not need Voice Evac, I will use a L Series Horn/ Strobe or Spectralert Advances, In the Front porch of my house, I will install a ELK-110 Voice driver with a 4 ohm 15 watt Horn speaker on my Front yard and Backyard gate to play the Fire message, The Fire Alarm Voltage power uses 24v so i have to use a step down Transformer to give it the right voltage to the driver
Hey Nic! Just want to take the time and let you know thank you for putting out these videos.. They're very informative and it opened my eyes from my curiosity how to install a FA with the proper tools you have and equipment you're using. I'm catching up from all the other vids you have and keep up the great work! 💪🏾💯🔥
A bit of trivia on electrical stuff. The three pin mains power plugs and sockets that Australia and New Zealand use were originally developed in the USA but not used there. Our power and light switch wall plate / boxes have the same spacing as Canada and USA. We're the same as UK and most of Europe with 230V single phase or 400V three phase, 50Hz.
Thanks Nic for another great video. Am really enjoying them. Regarding the fan in manhole - it's basically going to try and pressurise the space that its blowing into, and draw "make-up" air from somewhere. If you blow into attic space you're pushing the cooler air in, which will try and push out through any openings from the roof space, aka, hot air rises. It also means you're not pushing dust and insulation down into the house. In Australia it's common to have a wind or even solar vent or "whirlybird" at a high point on the roof. The solar ones can have a sensor so they only come on above 40C for example
Looks good! If you're planning to go pro, get used to losing stuff in the wall, especially drill bits, it happens. Only thing I probably would have done different was when you did the downstairs, I would have put the smokes on the side of the soffit box, to catch the smoke as it rises up. Looking forward to the completion!
Yes I've lost plenty of tools in the walls lol usually at work. As for a smoke detector mounting I've had bad luck mounting them on a vertical surface as they will fill with dust and cause false alarms from my experience
Is part 3 gonna be the final and nice work for the up stairs and the attic! Hope we will get part 3 next week instead the weekend lol but u should add a pull station down stairs not in the garage but but the door downstairs exit door. And anyways nicely done! Exhausted LOL
Thank you. There will be a third part of the rough in. I explained in other videos about the pull stations as originally there wasn't going to be any at all it isn't possible to add a pull station at the basement exit
I think what I may have done is delete the hallways smoke detector and use the existing box, if possible. Then you don't have two smoke alarms going off if your toast for breakfast is extra crispy.
Can you have a commercial fire alarm system in a residential house and still make it up to code because I want to do one in my house but I’m just not sure if I want to go with conventional or addressable I have a notifier 640 in a 3030 cabinet can I use that for a 1400 square-foot house? Or would I need something smaller?
running cables are not fun you have to go in and out of tight spaces and drill throw lots of wood and walls to gain access to the areas needed .i have been there running lighting and mains for sockets in uk where insolutation and beams at 45 degree angles are not good .
question, in my house I have the typical smoke alarms that beep. Is it legal/safe to replace those with a system sensor that links to a fire panel which connects to the sounder devices?
@@nics-systems-electric Where do you buy your devices? I can't seem to find a quick way to get them since most sites like jmac supply takes forever to ship
Nic are you not allowed to use plastic in Canada for your boxes? It could’ve saved you all the extra conductors in your wire typically the fire rating one and a half hours. Here is all you have to meet for your enclosures and plastic boxes meet and/or in some cases exceed that as well.
You can use plastic I did use plastic boxes in the attic where it wasn't being cut in. The material of the box doesn't change how many conductors you need
@@nics-systems-electric well technically what would you be grounding? There is no ground lug on a smoke detector, so you could use all 4 conductors in an 18/4 for the loop and not waste one on a box ground, I mean that isn’t required here anyway but I assume you do it because it is required there.
@@Pbell you have to bond the metal bonding strap in the plastic box as you have to be able to get a ground fault at every device for a system to be legal it must all be bonded
@@nics-systems-electric we must have different boxes here because there is 0 metal in our plastic boxes no bonding straps either. I can get a ground fault at every device without an “equipment” ground so I’m not sure why they are pushing that there. If you take + to - you’ll get a ground fault I’ve also pinched the wires behind the plastic plates and gotten ground fault as is intended. I guess it’s just different codes between US and Canada so crazy the differences. Also here’s one to keep in your tool box twice I had ground faults from the Telco lines, Now I check there first.
@@Pbell it's part of fire alarm system verification that you have to get a ground fault at each device every plastic box has a bonding strap as we aren't required to bond certain devices like light switches for example as it gets bonded through the box that is either metal or has a metal bonding strap in a plastic box you shouldn't get a ground fault if you take positive to negative somethings not right if you get that
When I Was 13 I Used To Love Fire Alarms But Now I'm Into Trains LOL And Great Video Greetings From El Paso Texas USA (I'm American By The Way LOL) Wait You Used To Be Pickle Right I Don't Remember Tho
@@nics-systems-electric Are you keeping the existing carbon monoxide detectors that are in currently? I thought Carbon Monoxide detectors in the house would be required
@@nics-systems-electric I am a firefighter, there is danger of carbon monoxide in EVERY house. Furnaces, ovens, ranges, and hot water heaters to name a few. You should ALWAYS have carbon monoxide detectors. One on each living level of the house.
I agree that is true. I didn't have a ton of options for one particular section where there was a few holes made in a section of truss on top of the centre hallways top plate so couple 3/8 holes in a section of trust that is supported not under tension is not gonna hurt it. But if it was in a trust where it was under load then definitely not a great idea
@@adamm9642 i'm aware trusses are not meant to be drilled but I am wondering how much is a 3/8 hole in a section that is not under any tension going to compromise integrity of that member as I was informed by others that it was fine as it isn't large enough to affected strength when it's not under a tensile load
the truss is always under load thats why its there, its not to hold up drywall, its literally holding up the roof, technically there is no repair and if you did this for a contractor they could get your insurance to replace the whole truss , realistically though I'm sure you can repair it with some 2x4s on each side and some structural screws@@nics-systems-electric
This is amazing!!!! Love it! Not enough enthusiasts do this!
Thank you very much. I do understand why it's not done by most as if you only rent the house and it's not owned it wouldn't be possible as well as it is a extremely costly project and can be challenging depending on the structure
Well here is the thing and why I wouldn’t do this, if you were to install this in your home you cannot half a** it, you cannot do it part way. You would have to file it and do it correctly if you didn’t and a fire happens there is going to be a lot of issues. Also if you have it and the fire department shows up and it wasn’t filed with the township here you get a fine. To file it with the township I would need to pull a permit. To pull a permit I need to do it to code. Then when I’m done I’m forced to now have it monitored because the township will expect a Class E system to be monitored. This is why you wouldn’t do this unless you were required to do this typically.
@@Pbell they won't monitor residential customers anymore it's no different than having a security system with smoke detectors as it is a residential installation
@@nics-systems-electric I guess it’s different in Canada. If it was here at least in my Township if you have commercial grade equipment you are held to that standard. If you have residential equipment you are held to that standard. But also in NJ regardless you are required to have an electrical inspection even for a residential system.
@@Pbell it's a low-voltage equipment and if it's not required to be there like it would be in a commercial application it's no different than running security system or speakers low-voltage lighting etc
Just finished up a home system for my place. Not quite as professionally installed as what you have. It’s a full system but it’s conventional Edwards (fire shield 5 zone panel) with CO monitoring and furnace shutdown. It’s nothing too fancy, just enough to protect the wife and I. When we move to our forever home I do plan on installing a full addressable system like what you have here. Nice work man
Right on that's awesome
Nic you’re too good at keeping us entertained with your vids! Keep it up!
Thank you very much
So ready for Part 2. Your title is wrong.
Yes the title is wrong it's now fixed
i am so ready for when the system is done when his tests will go to the house as well AMAZING CONTENT
Thank you very much
If i decide to install a Commercial fire alarm system
I Would use the Wheelock Safepath Voice Evac system with System Sensor L Series Ceiling and wall Speaker Strobes because it has a modern look than the Wheelock speakers that look like Old Style, if i feel that an area does not need Voice Evac, I will use a L Series Horn/ Strobe or Spectralert Advances, In the Front porch of my house, I will install a ELK-110 Voice driver with a 4 ohm 15 watt Horn speaker on my Front yard and Backyard gate to play the Fire message, The Fire Alarm Voltage power uses 24v so i have to use a step down Transformer to give it the right voltage to the driver
Hey Nic! Just want to take the time and let you know thank you for putting out these videos.. They're very informative and it opened my eyes from my curiosity how to install a FA with the proper tools you have and equipment you're using. I'm catching up from all the other vids you have and keep up the great work! 💪🏾💯🔥
That's awesome I'm glad to hear. Thanks for watching!
A bit of trivia on electrical stuff. The three pin mains power plugs and sockets that Australia and New Zealand use were originally developed in the USA but not used there. Our power and light switch wall plate / boxes have the same spacing as Canada and USA. We're the same as UK and most of Europe with 230V single phase or 400V three phase, 50Hz.
Thanks Nic for another great video. Am really enjoying them. Regarding the fan in manhole - it's basically going to try and pressurise the space that its blowing into, and draw "make-up" air from somewhere. If you blow into attic space you're pushing the cooler air in, which will try and push out through any openings from the roof space, aka, hot air rises. It also means you're not pushing dust and insulation down into the house. In Australia it's common to have a wind or even solar vent or "whirlybird" at a high point on the roof. The solar ones can have a sensor so they only come on above 40C for example
Yeah you don't see too many whirlybird's here I wouldn't mind installing a vent/fan at the gable end though
Part 1. ruclips.net/video/8eBTkRTSzME/видео.htmlsi=YroHIjdqsRfBHLmI
Part 3. ruclips.net/video/pOT9ihRM4Qc/видео.htmlsi=4cLewkdNMWnQXcdo
I can't wait to see the system in action. 😊
PART 2 YAY!!!! 😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊😊 KEEP UP THE AWESOME CONTENT NIC!!!
Thank you very much I appreciate it
@@nics-systems-electric :D
Looks good! If you're planning to go pro, get used to losing stuff in the wall, especially drill bits, it happens. Only thing I probably would have done different was when you did the downstairs, I would have put the smokes on the side of the soffit box, to catch the smoke as it rises up. Looking forward to the completion!
Yes I've lost plenty of tools in the walls lol usually at work. As for a smoke detector mounting I've had bad luck mounting them on a vertical surface as they will fill with dust and cause false alarms from my experience
Loved pt1 and this one
Do you have a video that explains more about you? How you learned all this, etc etc. You definitely are a brilliant guy, love these videos
Thanks I appreciate the support. I guess I don't really have a video like that yet now that I think about it
When a new video comes out:😮😮😮😮🎉🎉🎉 this is amazing
Nic: well thanks
Me: your the man
Hey thanks
Wow I feel old now I used to watch you back in 2019
Is part 3 gonna be the final and nice work for the up stairs and the attic! Hope we will get part 3 next week instead the weekend lol but u should add a pull station down stairs not in the garage but but the door downstairs exit door. And anyways nicely done! Exhausted LOL
Thank you. There will be a third part of the rough in. I explained in other videos about the pull stations as originally there wasn't going to be any at all it isn't possible to add a pull station at the basement exit
This Is Amazing! Keep up more fun videos and good work we all love your videos! And THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO EVER
Thank you glad you enjoy
@@nics-systems-electric best video ever
Nice! Love this series
Thank you
Same!
These videos may be long but are entertaining while Nic's doing them
You should get yourself a Brady labeller, I bought one when I started doing commercial AVCom and it’s a beast.
I use a different brand but yes labelling is good
This looks great! I remember you talking about putting in a duct detector and I was wondering if you were still going to install one.
Thank you. Yes the wiring was ran for the duct detector in part one video
Would putting a heat detector in the kitchen instead of a smoke detector cause less false alarms?
I am not putting a smoke detector in the kitchen so it won't be a problem
Great Video
Thanks!
@@nics-systems-electric NP
Great Neat Work ! Nice Job Nic !
Thank you very much
Bros next video: “installing a fire call/tornado siren”
You should install a secret safe somehwere for your sacred air can.
Really interesting I like to see how things are done in other countries. 😃
Glad you enjoyed it!
I think what I may have done is delete the hallways smoke detector and use the existing box, if possible. Then you don't have two smoke alarms going off if your toast for breakfast is extra crispy.
Can't mix low-voltage and line voltage in the same box. The old smoke alarms were removed.
Hi Nic I have been waiting for this video to be uploaded
This is looking goooooood
Thank you
Can you have a commercial fire alarm system in a residential house and still make it up to code because I want to do one in my house but I’m just not sure if I want to go with conventional or addressable I have a notifier 640 in a 3030 cabinet can I use that for a 1400 square-foot house? Or would I need something smaller?
I'd leave that decision up to you as it could vary where you are
running cables are not fun you have to go in and out of tight spaces and drill throw lots of wood and walls to gain access to the areas needed .i have been there running lighting and mains for sockets in uk where insolutation and beams at 45 degree angles are not good .
What are the four wires for on the monitor module like what are they
Awesome! Keep up the good work!
Thank you
What did your parents think of doing this to the house?
That it's good since it was pretty sketchy before only having one smoke detector
I’m planning on installing a system like this in the future but I live in a mobile home so it’s impossible
Yasssssss part 2!!!!!!!!
question, in my house I have the typical smoke alarms that beep. Is it legal/safe to replace those with a system sensor that links to a fire panel which connects to the sounder devices?
Your current smoke alarms would be 120 V system sensor devices are 24 V or 12 V so you would need a security panel or fire panel
@@nics-systems-electric Where do you buy your devices? I can't seem to find a quick way to get them since most sites like jmac supply takes forever to ship
What inspired you to be a fire alarm content creator?
I enjoy it and people seem to watch it so it works out
@@nics-systems-electric ah ok
Just curious why ain’t you putting strobes in the bedrooms?
Not required and more costly
Nic are you not allowed to use plastic in Canada for your boxes? It could’ve saved you all the extra conductors in your wire typically the fire rating one and a half hours. Here is all you have to meet for your enclosures and plastic boxes meet and/or in some cases exceed that as well.
You can use plastic I did use plastic boxes in the attic where it wasn't being cut in. The material of the box doesn't change how many conductors you need
@@nics-systems-electric well technically what would you be grounding? There is no ground lug on a smoke detector, so you could use all 4 conductors in an 18/4 for the loop and not waste one on a box ground, I mean that isn’t required here anyway but I assume you do it because it is required there.
@@Pbell you have to bond the metal bonding strap in the plastic box as you have to be able to get a ground fault at every device for a system to be legal it must all be bonded
@@nics-systems-electric we must have different boxes here because there is 0 metal in our plastic boxes no bonding straps either. I can get a ground fault at every device without an “equipment” ground so I’m not sure why they are pushing that there. If you take + to - you’ll get a ground fault I’ve also pinched the wires behind the plastic plates and gotten ground fault as is intended. I guess it’s just different codes between US and Canada so crazy the differences. Also here’s one to keep in your tool box twice I had ground faults from the Telco lines, Now I check there first.
@@Pbell it's part of fire alarm system verification that you have to get a ground fault at each device every plastic box has a bonding strap as we aren't required to bond certain devices like light switches for example as it gets bonded through the box that is either metal or has a metal bonding strap in a plastic box you shouldn't get a ground fault if you take positive to negative somethings not right if you get that
Also, can I use voice evac in a residential house, Nick
You could it would be really overkill and expensive but you could
Yes can't wait!! Part 2!!! When will Part 3 be out?
My upload schedule has not changed it is still a video every Saturday with fieldwork videos on Wednesday
@@nics-systems-electric Okay thanks!
Just because I am in the UK, doesn't mean I don't mind a different country's fire alarm 😊😊😊.
Nice
When I Was 13 I Used To Love Fire Alarms But Now I'm Into Trains LOL And Great Video Greetings From El Paso Texas USA (I'm American By The Way LOL) Wait You Used To Be Pickle Right I Don't Remember Tho
Yes channel name was pickle 700 for years
@@nics-systems-electric LOL
@@ElPasoTXRailfanner ES44AC baybeeeee!!!
Nice bro
Thanks
When Will Part Three Come Out
My channels upload schedule has not changed it will still be a video every Saturday and fieldwork stuff on Wednesday
Title is wrong its part 2 not part 1😅 but happy to watch another video👌
Yep I make mistakes too it's fixed
YEEEEAAAAH PART 2 BAYBEEE!!!
Yessir
Why no Carbon Monoxide detectors?
Not needed there would be no point
@@nics-systems-electric Are you keeping the existing carbon monoxide detectors that are in currently? I thought Carbon Monoxide detectors in the house would be required
@@shaynewaite5329 no I'm not keeping them there is no danger of carbon monoxide in this building
@@nics-systems-electric I am a firefighter, there is danger of carbon monoxide in EVERY house. Furnaces, ovens, ranges, and hot water heaters to name a few. You should ALWAYS have carbon monoxide detectors. One on each living level of the house.
@@shaynewaite5329 no gas here all electric
PART 2 LETS GOOO
NIC'S wen is part 3 ?
My upload schedule does not change with a video every Saturday and fieldwork videos on Wednesday
32:58 Wow that doorbell is really low.
NIC`S what is part 1 call`d
Same thing just go to my channel
NIC'S I have a pull station BG_12 allen wrench key
can me be your friend
I'm watching part 1 right now
I have a pull station BG-12 allen wrench key
👍
Where’s pt1?
ruclips.net/video/8eBTkRTSzME/видео.htmlsi=KX7q0yFjTXSN9KNv
1:18:46 Hi Tom 😂
YES
Can i be your friend
drilled through the rafters/trusses, thats extremely wrong man
I agree that is true. I didn't have a ton of options for one particular section where there was a few holes made in a section of truss on top of the centre hallways top plate so couple 3/8 holes in a section of trust that is supported not under tension is not gonna hurt it. But if it was in a trust where it was under load then definitely not a great idea
@@nics-systems-electric wrong is wrong , and although your video is great, its a big deal and is not acceptable
@@adamm9642 i'm aware trusses are not meant to be drilled but I am wondering how much is a 3/8 hole in a section that is not under any tension going to compromise integrity of that member as I was informed by others that it was fine as it isn't large enough to affected strength when it's not under a tensile load
If it is such a problem what would the recommended repair be?
the truss is always under load thats why its there, its not to hold up drywall, its literally holding up the roof, technically there is no repair and if you did this for a contractor they could get your insurance to replace the whole truss , realistically though I'm sure you can repair it with some 2x4s on each side and some structural screws@@nics-systems-electric
Third
its named part 1
Yes it's fixed
First