I bought the Robart paint shaker. It stopped working within weeks of my purchase. I took it apart, turns out the connections weren't even soldered and the construction was extremely sloppy and poor.
I don't expect the internals of mine to be much better, but at least it's cheaper. I'm sure its the same machine in a different box rebranded for hobbyists in order to raise the price a bit.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial if it stops working on you, odds are the wires inside separated from the motor. It turned out to be an easy fix on mine, now if only I could find where it was stashed when we cleaned the house. Also, those little rubber straps got lost on mine, so I just used multiple rubber bands. ;-)
I have had the one you got for going on about a year now. Works great. I bought it originally because I had a bunch of Vallejo paints that had sat for about 5-7 years and wanted to restore them. Threw a couple drops of flow aid, an agitator, and about 10min on the shaker and they were like new. Not even sure I needed the flow aid.
Funny thing is that i googled the nail shaker to find an australian link and i found the opposite of this video, A nail polish reviewer using the Robart Hobby Paint Shaker and it looks identical
Hematite IS rust. It just happens to be a really stable form of natural rust so the paint will be fine. It's what gets mined in order to make iron and steel. Thanks, engineering classes.
I've dug into the topic of "what material to use as agitators" for many many hours. I've found that tin doesn't rust and is non-toxic (think about food; most foods are canned in tin). Tin also has a specific gravity that's much closer to steel (7.2 : 7.7~) which means it's less bouyant than hematite and will 'agitate' better. Some companies make eco-friendly fishing shot out of tin and they fit nicely in a paint bottle. Also, 316 Marine-Grade Stainless Steel DOES rust. This is what most nail polish agitators are made of and will eventually rust if submerged consistently in water. A massive majority of nail polishes are enamel suspended in alkyd/oil, which does not cause steel to oxidize. Since steel is cheap and doesn't effect the long term shelf life of enamel nail polish, it's utilized often. 316-SS may take a bit longer to oxidize, but if I'm like other painters, I've had some paints that are many years old. Save yourself a tetanus shot and go for tin! :) I hope this came across as more informative than anything else!
@@tonygagey 316 in fact does rust. It is comprised of chromium, nickel, molybdenum, and steel. It is very rust RESISTANT but still does rust over a long period of time in water and in less time when exposed to certain substances or circumstances. When I worked at a pump company, we used 316 SS for bowl shafts because it took much longer to rust, so when we would pull a pump that had only been in the ground for 5-10 years for maintenance, the shaft still looked great. However, when we would pull one 15-20 years old, there was a good chance that pits would have formed and rusted. Also, in wells, there are very fine rock particles that will eat away at the steel and sometimes cause a reaction which would make the shaft rust quicker as well due to the wearing away of the steel.
Great video. Since watching your videos, I have begun to build my own miniature buildings. Without your videos and the awesome way you explain what you are doing, I probably would have not had the courage to start. Thank you for your videos, and your patient demeanor, makes watching and learning from you a treat.
Good to you sir. I bought the Robart Paint Shaker about 4 months ago. I opted to buy the 4d battery operated one instead of the AC plug in for one reason, mobility. I paint in different locations sometimes no outlets. So , at around $26 USD I was happy to aquire and use this till my house shook to test the motors abilities. And still after many many shakes, still together. YES Robart is way better do to it's construction making it quieter then the silver knock off. Thanks for another good video 👍 keep it up.
Yep, and my paint tray is fixed to my airbrush compressor, so when I paint it preps the bottles that are in use at the moment. The US cleaner is quite impressive, though it's not as powerful as when you put tools directly in the cleaner, it's sufficient to make the pigments suspended again. It works fine with Vallejo air and game, but not as much with gw, I think because the plastic is thicker)
I have one of these nailpolish shakers because of this video. It was $20 shipped through Prime and I’ve had good results with Vallejo paints. I did use the metal beads from Army Painter just because they had them at the local shop on sale. No rust and they mix great.
Army Painter is releasing a stainless steel bearing set (100x) later this week. You can preorder from their store. People have already been testing them in salt water and they won’t rust. Few channels on RUclips have already reviewed.
For Aussies (bc AU Amazon is the worst), ebay has what looks like exactly the same model for around $28 with free shipping. I find the shaking by hand oddly soothing, but my wrist makes an awful clicking noise the whole time so I might have to buy one (and get back to painting).
Cheers for the help. I love being an Aussie EXCEPT for the lack of decent Amazon coverage. Though I would rather wait a fortnight for something from China and only pay 4-5 dollars on something that's $15 elsewhere.
Loved the review and after testing the ball bearings I put them into my dropper bottles. Thanks for that tip as it never occurred to me that they might not be up to par. Now then. I purchased the nail polish shaker form Amazon and received the package in about 1 week. After opening it up and installing some AA batteries, test only, I looked for the strap to hold a bottle of reaper pait from their beginner kit. NO STRAP! none were included in the box. Rather than get crazy and have to wait for a replacement or buying the straps separately, I just used an appropriately sized rubber band. It works just fine and held the dropper bottle firmly in place. It took about 90 seconds to mix a bottle of bronze to a perfect consistency.
I have many types of acrylic paints from various manufacturers. My simple solution is to just add one x 6mm STAINLESS STEEL ball bearing to each pot. This acts just like the BB in a rattle can and beautifully moves and mixes the paint with a minimum of shaking. I also top each bottle or pot with a couple of drops of acrylic thinner every so often to allow for evaporation. In the UK I can get 50 x 6mm stainless steel BBs for about £5.50. You must use stainless steel as these will not react with the water in the paint. If you use normal steel it will rust and will ruin the paint. One neat thing is that when the paint runs out you can recover the BB and re-use it in the next pot. Mine come from Simply Bearings and I have never had any problems with rust. I thoroughly recommend this. B
Second hand vortex mixers can be bought on Ebay regularly in the US for around $30. I have purchased 2 of these and they work so much better than the cheap amazon product. US base ppl, I cannot stress this enough, check Ebay and you'll get a better product for less.
Not related to this video, but I just watched a vid by Wyrmwood promoting their official game table, which runs from $5k-$30k. Your homemade table is infinitely better because of a single feature: it actually has enough space for everyone’s character sheets and books. Actually your table has several important features for RPGing that theirs lacks. So bravo, my man.
Yea, all those fancy gaming tables seem AWFUL to play on with the "3-"4 little lip around them. Where the hell are you supposed to put your stuff? Only works when they have extra slide out or flip out areas.
The only thing you need to watch out for if you are using the hematite is, if you are using multiples and they collide with each other, they can smash themselves into small debris.
For agitators, you can 1. Use little stones you can find anywhere. They don't rust. If you get them by a river or beach they'll be round. 2. You can use steel balls and gran them back with a magnet in a stick. Count the ones you put in to make sure you remove them all. I use a paper clip straightened and attached to my mini-drill for a pair of seconds. much better and faster.
I use Army Painter and they are notoriously hard to shake. So thanks for the review! Tips for new painters. -Paints that need to be shaken/mixed more will appear as THIN. Just because you are no longer getting medium does not mean the paint has been mixed. -Not all colors are the same, RED and YELLOW separate far faster and need to be shaken more. Black and metallic are normally some of the thinnest paints and require the least. -How you store your paints effects how quickly they separate. Take a look at Jeremy's shelf on the left, he stores his paints laying down, which makes them easier to mix. Only the metallic are stored standing up.
Hematite - brilliant! My old school solution was to keep bottled paint, like enamels, in a small plastic "basket." On washday I'd plop it on top of the washer or dryer and get them well-agitated once a week. All of them. But I did have BB's inside to help. But I really prefer tube paints.
I bought 1 of these not long ago. Used it and about a month it got burnt out. I decided to take it apart to see how it's made and to see if there were spots I can drill holes thru so I can cool it off. It's such a simple device to make to be honest. You could make a wooden base and have the middle open enough to have airflow so it doesn't burn itself out.
Absolutely agree. Do not use ball bearings. My XXXzon/XXXbay purchase rusted within weeks. Fortunately I only put them in a few pots which I subsequently fished them out. Don't use metal balls!
Steve Vickers This has been the opposite to my experience. I’ve been putting cheap metal BB’s into my paints for 10 years now. They are oxidizing slightly in the bag they came in, so I know they are not stainless steel. But I have never had them ruin any of my paints. I use Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, etc. This has not been an issue for me. Now, these shakers are still a good idea.
I jury rigged a small bar clamp to fit in my jigsaw, which works but like you said, kind of a pain. I saw one of these a while ago a d wondered if they were good for mini paints, but completely forgot... until now! Thank you for the reminder good sir! You are a champion of the crafting cause.
Been using a Robart paint shaker for over 20 years, when it was a tan plastic housing. Also tried the cheap one from Chinamart (Amazon), works when it wants to. I admit I periodically take the Robart apart & lubricate the motor & linkage, but it's over 20 years old! All my paints i use an agitator ball in the paint bottle. But since Model Master in off the market, I only use solvent based paints like enamels. Hardware store paint thinner works just find for thinning & clean up.
As a rule of thumb, you can use a magnet to test the iron content of the ball bearing. If they're magnetic, they are more likely to rust. If they do not stick to the magnet, they are usually safe to use. It's not a question of the "quality" of stainless, but rather the type. Austenetic vs ferretic stainless. Austenetic has more molyebdenum and chromium, making it more resistant to corrosion.
Hematite has a black to steel or silver-gray color in raw form, but when polished, its color ranges from a bright metallic luster to dark gray. Contact with water causes hematite to rust, typically turning the stone's surface into a reddish-brown or yellow color.
Army Painter's paints are quite thick - company is aware of that and so they started to sell own mixing balls. They are made of acid-proof stainless steel. They won't rust, so go ahead and buy them. One package has 100 pieces. Just add two balls to every bottle, and shake it in a shaker.
Although more expensive, I have a Typhoon vortex shaker. It is a refurbished laboratory shaker for hobby use. Mine came with a holder for Vallejo style dropper bottles and a flat plate that mixes other kinds of paint bottles. I have used mine with craft paints, Citadel, and several older brands. I have even restored Citadel paints that are 25 years old. Shaking the paint only takes seconds. Worth the extra cost in my opinion.
I use a jigsaw with a clamp in where the blade should go. It’s power is ferocious, it laughs all over any other type of paint shaker. Moves about 2 or 3 inches at a speed so high it appears to be in 2 places at once. With this and some Vallejo medium I have brought old GW paints the consistency of old blu tac back to almost as good as new condition. My jigsaw cost £19, I already had the clamp.
nice. At $23 its worth a try and as backup the jigsaw approach is worthwhile as I've got a 30 year old black and decker jigsaw that still works in a drawer in the garage. Right on the money on putting the 'stainless' bearings in the salt water cup on the counter for a few days.
I made a paint shaker that handles most of my bottles. I bought an old Black and Decker jigsaw at a pawn shop on sale. After taxes it was about $3. I then attached a small bar clamp to the head that usually holds a blade. Now I clamp bottles with the clamp and turn on the saw for anywhere from a few seconds to a minute. Done. I have a few odd bottles that it doesn't work on. But it covers most of what I use. I've been trying to come up with a better way for the clamp part to work. But I figure I may just design and print some new specialty jaw inserts for the clamp when I get my 3D printer up and running.
Have been using #8-32 stainless nuts from hardware stores for over 35 years. Have never had a leaching problem. Hex shape plus hole makes them great agitators. Even used in glass testors and pactra bottles. As for shakers cheap hand held massagers self vulcanizing tape and leather laces from old boots. Round beads may clog, multiples could fracture even in liquid. Single torpedo shaped bead should give you the same cavitations as multiple round.
Most nail polish and spray paint cans use a nylon-coated steel bearing. Non reactive and the nylon coating makes it less likely to chip the inside of a glass paint/polish bottle. However, I can’t seem to find them available for retail purchase. Fun fact: My friend’s dad patented the nylon coated bearing for this use, and the licensing sent both his kids to college.
I use a small quick-grip filed down on the end, so it fits into my dewalt jigsaw:) In my experience, if it havent mixed nicely in 30sec this way, the paint isnt worth the work to make it useable again. I use 1 acidproof 8mm nuts for agitators in each pot. Never seen them rust:)
I have a vibrating massager. I hold the paint containers next to it on fool blast and it mixes them up really well and in no time at all. I really need to get an attachment 3d printed for it that will hold the containers. If someone is looking for something to mix their paints that they may already have around the home, I highly recommend this solution.
You can find hematite beads at Michaels, Hobby Lobby etc... Wait for the beads to go on sale. Sometimes up to %70 off, then buy a crap ton. I found a bunch of cube beads that seem to work really well. If you can't wait for a sale. Download their apps and they always have 40-50% off coupons.
I had a servo and Arduino sitting around. A bit of hot glue, popsicle sticks and a few lines of code I had a paint oscillator. It's not an instant shaker but it does work if you plan ahead what color you need next. It's also more than strong enough for 2-3 bottles at once. It also is easy to assemble and disassemble if I want the Arduino or servo for another use.
Fisher K-G-550-G vortex mixer can be had for under $60 on ebay if you keep your eyes open. If you are serious about mixing your paints this is the way to go.
Thank you for the hematite suggestion. I've been hesitantly looking at steel ball bearings, and was even debating about just grabbing a box of slingshot ammo from Canadian tire. Though seeing the shaker I am still back to considering pulling a Red Green on a hitachi or shake weight. Technically it should work especially with a few agitators thrown in... weird works.
I have joint issues so I bought a good vortex mixer (Four E's, around 80 GBP) for general mixing during painting sessions and a cheap 'cradle' type nail polish mixer for paints that have settled and separated as I can switch it on and leave it for a few minutes to do it's thing. I use steel mixing balls from Army Painter and AK.
I use airport pellets. Most of the time I usually use 2, but for thicker paints 3 to 4. No worries for rust and you can get a few hundred for relativity inexpensive when you figure cost per bead.
'Cause the players gonna play, play, play, play, play And the haters gonna hate, hate, hate, hate, hate Baby, I'm just gonna shake, shake, shake, shake, shake I shake it off, I shake it off
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Ah! Here we go now, Shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it Shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it Shake it like a Polaroid picture! Hey ya!
I own Games Workshop paints and what I did is put them in small bottles like what you're showing in the video using a small funnel. They had control dropper tips and were about 15 ml. Then I used some small (8-32) Stainless Steel nuts from Home Depot. This system is working great for me. I might be interested in the shaker now though.
I can tell you that Daisy brand Zinc-plated BB's won't rust or corrode. I make my own mold release using mineral spirits and petroleum jelly, and that's what I use. I've been re-filling the same bottle, with the same BB's, for over a year and have not had any problems.
I found a killer deal on a cheap jigsaw and made a paint holder out of an empty tylenol bottle, the included saw blade, and a whole lot of hot glue, zip ties, and two-part epoxy. Now I can just drop in a paint, screw the cap on, and shake the everliving $#!& out of it.
I have exactly the same ladies varnish shaker. A tip is to secure the paint bottle to the rubber strap right at the end of the bottle for more shake and drop a metal ball into it or two.
From what I understand, Reaper stopped using the miniature skull agitators a few years ago. You'd have to find an older bottle to still get one. You can see the agitator in some colors of the newer paint and it's just a dark bead.
Very good advice! I have several batches of Reaper paints - the first batch I received (from kickstarter) did not come with agitators. The rest did. A little over a year ago I purchased a vortex mixer (designed for test-tubes) like you mention at the start of the video. At ~$80CDN, it was about 3x the price of yours or 2x the price of the Robart but man - it only takes 2-5 seconds to mix anything I've thrown at it. Pricey... but quieter, faster, smaller footprint (about the size of a coffee mug,) and IMHO better looking than the alternatives. I'd recommend that to anyone who likes nice tools and has the money to spare. Prior to that, I'd use improvised shakers (hand sander and jigsaw). These were a pain in the arse in many ways, not least of which they were too bulky to leave out so I'd have to dig them out whenever needed.
I have apple barrel and folk art paints and I use marbles. I’ll have to get that shaker though it will definitely save my shoulder. Thank you for your constant inspiration.
For those, or the old large-mouth Reaper paint pots, I use pony beads. Drop in three or four and they work fine. (And you can buy them for $10 for about 1500 of them at Walmart. (I don't use the metal plated one, just in case they flake off the plating.) Don't use it for craft paint, they're too heavy. And you can't trust the cap to stay closed. (Learn from my mistake!!! Don't do it.)
I highly recommend grabbing yourself a vortex mixer, it is quiter, mixes better and will do so fast and without straps. Mine isn't portable but there are a few mini vortex mixers from china floating about that apparently work well (I made up a multiple bottle holder for mine though so I can make sure all of my paints are mixed at least once a year)
You're right about vortex mixers not being inexpensive, but for $100 I grabbed a LabGenius Mini-Vortex recently, and it's absurd how quickly and perfectly it mixes after just a few seconds. You just press the bottle against the mixer and release when it looks good to go. Is it worth four of these? Too early to tell, for sure.
When my Reaper paints do eventually run out (or dry up) I pull out those little metal skulls. I've found 3 different sculpts over the years. I dig them out when the paint is no longer usable (some of them are over 15 years old!) and I still have a blast pulling apart the chunks of mushy wet rubber to find the prize in the middle! Just wear gloves when you do. Trust me.
Really dug your tutorial on paint shakers. My question is: What’s your take on using lava beads? These are beads made from Lava Rock & dropped into a paint bottle as agitators? I’ve heard out there on social media that because it’s a natural rock from lava, it won’t harm your paints, can withstand long-term use in the paints & therefore make good agitators. Your reply is appreciated 🎨✌🏽
Great tips as always. One issue I've run into as a novice painter, is after selecting the pots I plan to use (all Army Painter atm) I spend like 30 mins shaking them all up, even with 1-2 agitator beads. Right after this, my hands twitch from the exertion, like when you exercise and get that blood going. This makes it difficult to start putting that freshly shaken paint into intricate spots on minis.
When i shake a bottle by hand i usually thump it against the palm of hand. As a wargamer i always have scrap lead to drop into the bottles. But often i use the badger paint mixer.
Luke Towan here on RUclips has an awesome homemade paint shaker video that looks pretty cool. Just wanted to toss that out there for those that are inclined to build their own. He also has videos on making your own static grass applicator. Not affiliated with him or anything, but he's another awesome crafter. And it amuses me to see two hobbies of mine collide here for others as well as myself.
Isn't that the paint shaker that jumps all over the place? Lol. It's a neat hobby toy, but the parts and materials he used aren't cheap. Fun to watch it leaping around though.
@@ShadowDrakken Agreed, it is fun to watch jump around. LOL. And I agree that he used some expensive parts for that project, not to mention the 3d printed parts which put those plans outside my reach as well. I do like the variable speed control it has. But anyway just throwing it out there as a DIY solution to those who prefer that route and have access to those things. Besides, I enjoy throwing light on Luke's channel as well as this one, since they are both big favorites of mine. It does jump around if not clamped down, though. :D
I like to use crossman copperhead BB's. The copper plating does not react with most paints. The hematite beads are magnetic as well. You can use a spinning magnet to mix the paint as well
Old Reaper paints had skull agitators. But they stopped that a few years ago and the new ones are just beads. Hematite works fine, but I prefer 3/0 lead shot, which is really cheap and works great. From the people I've talked to, the Robart shaker is a cheap piece of junk too. I'll also say that my refurbished vortex mixer is worth every penny of the $110 (IIRC) that I spent for it. Every single penny. 8-)
1st - Reaper paints are great, period. Starter or experienced painter. I prefer them over every other brand that I've used, and I've been painting for years. 2nd - "fancy expensive Vortex mixers from science labs" - I bought a used Vortex mixer on eBay for about $30. While I've never used the paint shaker you show here, I'm willing to bet that the Vortex does a better job mixing paint. And it's super quiet. 3rd - I've never had luck with anything light weight like glass or hematite beads.... I buy the stainless ball bearings from AMMO and I've never had an issue with rust.
1. I agree, most times I find myself still grabbing for my Reaper paints over the Vallejo if I have similar colours from both. The exception being lighter colours. 2. They are better. Far better. But they take time and effort to source something used. If find one for $30 it's a better option. 3. It's hit and miss, and always a risk when buying.
I have the cheap nail polish mixer. The psu was open when it arrived so decided not to use it as the unit I got also takes batteries. Paints mix really well with the unit and stainless steel balls. I'm almost out of agitators so have ordered soom 4mm glass beads to give them a try.
I made my own paint shaker from an old PC fan and a 12v DC adapter. Just added a weight to one fan blade so it would vibrate and tape the paint pot to the top. Also: Don't put metal ball bearings in vallejo metallic paints *at all* They leach out the pigments. Source: My gold paint that turned into silver poop with a clump of cooked egg like yellow pigment around the ball bearing.
I actually use the modified jigsaw option. It works well on the Vallejo paints, though it does take longer my other paints. Most paints take only a few seconds. Vallejo that has been sitting a while might take up to a minute... maybe. To make it, I bought the cheapest jigsaw I could find on Amazon, $20. Then, I bought a small trigger type clap from Harbor Freight for just a few bucks. So, only a few bucks cheaper than the nail polish shaker and you have to hold it. But, who doesn't want to be lazier when they can! I like your solution.
I found a hobby store online that sells small Borosilicate Glass beads for paint mixing which work really well, they are heavy and mix the paint easily. So far they haven't rusted. ;D
Thanks for the tip on the hematite beads. I got some stainless steel ball bearings and they are not as stainless as they said. I just ordered some beads.
I have a Robart shaker that I've used for many years, the AC version. I picked it up used with no straps but rubber bands and hair ties worked fine. The only problem with it is that i moved and can't find it now lol! I was debating buying another one or making one from a jig saw, but i could run into issues with the Vallejo bottles. But bottom line is a must have especially for what the price of these paints are
Having used all types of mixers i couldnt be happier with my Vortex mixer, if i have used it from the start i wouldnt have spent money on crap cheap stuff before. Sometimes is better to go directly to the high end stuff
I sprung the bucks for the Robart version and it works. It's noisy, it's irritating, but it works really awesomely. I've actually been able to revive paints that I thought were dead using the Robart+agitators for extended shakings. I've heard the rumors about 'rust' but I've never seen any. Has anyone seen this rust action going on? I discovered that nail painters use the stainless steel ball bearings. For my large paint containers, I used plastic faux pearl beads that come in different sizes and are fairly heavy, and I really like the different sizes because it seems to work better. I was considering the hematite as well, but until I see some actual rust happening, I'm not going to worry about it; so far I've done good in finding quality stainless steel.
This is the video I was looking for!!! I have at least a hundred bottles of Vallejo paint and most of them are already separated. Needless to say, I've been looking for practical solutions that are cost effective and not so time consuming. I will give this shaker a try for sure. However, as far as the agitator goes I still have many questions. For example, best material, size, weight, how many to put in, etc. I recently got my hands on the Space Dust range of colors from Vallejo and noticed that they came with a SS ball to agitate the paint but it doesn't state anywhere any information about the quality of its agitator.
I was actually just looking at the shakers a few days ago so your timing on this review is perfect. Thanks! And great tip on the hematite because I can say for a fact that BB Gun BB's will rust (doh!)
quick follow up. You may have said this in the video and I missed it, but the beads are coming from China so even though they say shipped pretty much the next day, they aren't due to arrive until between March 26 and April 10. So fair warning to folks, if you need/want the beads sooner than 3-4 weeks find another source. The actually shaking machine though looks to only take 2-3 days at the most as mine is expected to arrive march 14 even though I ordered on March 11 and I went with the free shipping for orders over $25.
I was pleasantly surprised to hear you recommend hematite beads. I've been using those as it was something I just happened to have on hand from other crafting projects.
I got a cheap jigsaw from Harbor Freight for around $25. Attached a small DeWalt clamp to it where you insert the blade. It works amazing for shaking up paint bottles and only ran me around $35 total.
Yea, I'd rathe spend less and not have to dig out and hold a jig saw every time I want to shake paint. This thing sits nicely on my desk and it can work while I do other things.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial I get what you mean but I don't find it that much of an annoyance. I keep it plugged in under my paint desk so I just grab it and clamp a pot in. It will mix even old metallic paints in just a matter of seconds.
Man, you nailed this one. I got one of these cheap nail polish shakers about 3 months ago and have had nothing but success with it. Your advice on the hematite beads is stellar, too! I feared that my stainless steel bearings would rust, so added them sparingly to see. That tip alone made this video worth watching! On top of that, I had no idea my Reaper paints already have an agitator, or that two beads would mix much better than one. You're still taking us to school!
I've been using small glass beads that I got from Michaels, but they're probably too big for the valejo paint bottles. These may be a better choice since I'm going in that direction.
I was just recommend to your channel because my friends and I just started to play D&D and I'm getting so many good ideas and tips/tricks. Thank you! I'm definitely crafty and artistic, however this is a whole new world to me!
The Reaper paints used to have a pewter skull in them, but they ended up switching to glass beads. It just was taking too much time casting up skulls and removing them from sprues for the volume of paint that they sell.
Thanks for the video, I have Valejo paints and just a few Reaper. I tried shaking the hell out of the Valejo bottles by hand, and you're right, it would take forever to mix! really appreciate the info.
Not sure why but I've never had trouble with Vallejo Model Colours, they seem different to the Game colours. Haven't had any trouble with the Model colours seperating but I give them a good shake and lay them on a wet palette. I do really like their thick consitency.
I've not had a problem with the stainless bearings so far 😀 on the shakers I considered getting a cheap nail polish one the one you have in the video but with a lot of the online reviews saying how unreliable they were I looked further and found RUclips videos on using a jigsaw and a ratchet quick clamp and as I already had a jigsaw it made sense to go that way I just added a strap to make sure the paint doesn't fly off and drilled one of the grip pads to accept the Vallejo type bottles lids, given how fast it mixes the paint to a like new consistency I'm not sure the polish shakers could match it for speed of use. Plus you can still use the jigsaw as a jigsaw when you need to. I would say if your using paints that come in a glass bottle don't add the heavy agitators if your going to use a shaker it's a small risk but it could crack or break the glass. Sorry for the long post
Every time I use epoxy putty I take the extra unused stuff because I always mix to much and roll it into balls to use as agitators. Doesn't rust, is fairly dense, and I am not wasting my expensive greenstuff.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial It's definitely not as dense as a steel one, but they seem to work well enough. I make them about the size of a pea and usually put two in a bottle.
The price of the one you bought is now $35.00 and the other one the Robart is actually cost $85..00 so even if this one dies after a couple of years you still win. Great video
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I bought the Robart paint shaker. It stopped working within weeks of my purchase. I took it apart, turns out the connections weren't even soldered and the construction was extremely sloppy and poor.
I don't expect the internals of mine to be much better, but at least it's cheaper. I'm sure its the same machine in a different box rebranded for hobbyists in order to raise the price a bit.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial if it stops working on you, odds are the wires inside separated from the motor. It turned out to be an easy fix on mine, now if only I could find where it was stashed when we cleaned the house. Also, those little rubber straps got lost on mine, so I just used multiple rubber bands. ;-)
I love your work! Any chance you could do a build video on simple wooden crates? Maybe metal ones or tables too?
I have had the one you got for going on about a year now. Works great. I bought it originally because I had a bunch of Vallejo paints that had sat for about 5-7 years and wanted to restore them. Threw a couple drops of flow aid, an agitator, and about 10min on the shaker and they were like new. Not even sure I needed the flow aid.
Funny thing is that i googled the nail shaker to find an australian link and i found the opposite of this video, A nail polish reviewer using the Robart Hobby Paint Shaker and it looks identical
Hematite IS rust. It just happens to be a really stable form of natural rust so the paint will be fine. It's what gets mined in order to make iron and steel. Thanks, engineering classes.
Man I'm glad I wasn't the only person to realize that.
I've dug into the topic of "what material to use as agitators" for many many hours. I've found that tin doesn't rust and is non-toxic (think about food; most foods are canned in tin). Tin also has a specific gravity that's much closer to steel (7.2 : 7.7~) which means it's less bouyant than hematite and will 'agitate' better. Some companies make eco-friendly fishing shot out of tin and they fit nicely in a paint bottle.
Also, 316 Marine-Grade Stainless Steel DOES rust. This is what most nail polish agitators are made of and will eventually rust if submerged consistently in water. A massive majority of nail polishes are enamel suspended in alkyd/oil, which does not cause steel to oxidize. Since steel is cheap and doesn't effect the long term shelf life of enamel nail polish, it's utilized often. 316-SS may take a bit longer to oxidize, but if I'm like other painters, I've had some paints that are many years old. Save yourself a tetanus shot and go for tin! :)
I hope this came across as more informative than anything else!
Glass bbs are great
Glass?
316 ss rusts, nope, not true. Your 316 ain't 316.
@@tonygagey 316 in fact does rust. It is comprised of chromium, nickel, molybdenum, and steel. It is very rust RESISTANT but still does rust over a long period of time in water and in less time when exposed to certain substances or circumstances. When I worked at a pump company, we used 316 SS for bowl shafts because it took much longer to rust, so when we would pull a pump that had only been in the ground for 5-10 years for maintenance, the shaft still looked great. However, when we would pull one 15-20 years old, there was a good chance that pits would have formed and rusted. Also, in wells, there are very fine rock particles that will eat away at the steel and sometimes cause a reaction which would make the shaft rust quicker as well due to the wearing away of the steel.
I bought Army Painter mixing balls which are just stainless steel ball bearings. Seem fine so far.
Great video. Since watching your videos, I have begun to build my own miniature buildings. Without your videos and the awesome way you explain what you are doing, I probably would have not had the courage to start.
Thank you for your videos, and your patient demeanor, makes watching and learning from you a treat.
Good to you sir.
I bought the Robart Paint Shaker about 4 months ago. I opted to buy the 4d battery operated one instead of the AC plug in for one reason, mobility.
I paint in different locations sometimes no outlets. So , at around $26 USD I was happy to aquire and use this till my house shook to test the motors abilities.
And still after many many shakes, still together. YES Robart is way better do to it's construction making it quieter then the silver knock off.
Thanks for another good video 👍 keep it up.
I use my ultrasonic cleaner, it works perfectly.I just put the paint bottles in the water, the vibrations do the work for me ^^
Wow, does that really work? I assume you just put them in water?
Yep, and my paint tray is fixed to my airbrush compressor, so when I paint it preps the bottles that are in use at the moment.
The US cleaner is quite impressive, though it's not as powerful as when you put tools directly in the cleaner, it's sufficient to make the pigments suspended again. It works fine with Vallejo air and game, but not as much with gw, I think because the plastic is thicker)
🤯 are you for real? I need to do this,I hope works for nail polish bottles!
I saw someone else use this strategy and was intrigued. :)
I have one of these nailpolish shakers because of this video. It was $20 shipped through Prime and I’ve had good results with Vallejo paints. I did use the metal beads from Army Painter just because they had them at the local shop on sale. No rust and they mix great.
TPA's ball bearings are on the expensive side but quality is guaranteed!
I've bought both of those mixers I find they last around a year then burn out, but I loved using both of them.
Army Painter is releasing a stainless steel bearing set (100x) later this week. You can preorder from their store. People have already been testing them in salt water and they won’t rust. Few channels on RUclips have already reviewed.
Since I am getting back into miniature painting mostly because I have been watching your videos this game up at a good time.
For Aussies (bc AU Amazon is the worst), ebay has what looks like exactly the same model for around $28 with free shipping.
I find the shaking by hand oddly soothing, but my wrist makes an awful clicking noise the whole time so I might have to buy one (and get back to painting).
Did you find out why this sound is made? I have the same "awful clicking noise" and found out its not normal, but i really dislike it. Any ideas?
Cheers for the help. I love being an Aussie EXCEPT for the lack of decent Amazon coverage. Though I would rather wait a fortnight for something from China and only pay 4-5 dollars on something that's $15 elsewhere.
I tried a aliexpress 30 dollars vortex mixer and its crap just stick with some good thing like 4E
Loved the review and after testing the ball bearings I put them into my dropper bottles. Thanks for that tip
as it never occurred to me that they might not be up to par. Now then. I purchased the nail polish shaker form
Amazon and received the package in about 1 week. After opening it up and installing some AA batteries, test only,
I looked for the strap to hold a bottle of reaper pait from their beginner kit. NO STRAP! none were included in the box.
Rather than get crazy and have to wait for a replacement or buying the straps separately, I just used an appropriately
sized rubber band. It works just fine and held the dropper bottle firmly in place. It took about 90 seconds to mix a
bottle of bronze to a perfect consistency.
I have many types of acrylic paints from various manufacturers. My simple solution is to just add one x 6mm STAINLESS STEEL ball bearing to each pot. This acts just like the BB in a rattle can and beautifully moves and mixes the paint with a minimum of shaking. I also top each bottle or pot with a couple of drops of acrylic thinner every so often to allow for evaporation. In the UK I can get 50 x 6mm stainless steel BBs for about £5.50.
You must use stainless steel as these will not react with the water in the paint. If you use normal steel it will rust and will ruin the paint. One neat thing is that when the paint runs out you can recover the BB and re-use it in the next pot.
Mine come from Simply Bearings and I have never had any problems with rust. I thoroughly recommend this.
B
Second hand vortex mixers can be bought on Ebay regularly in the US for around $30. I have purchased 2 of these and they work so much better than the cheap amazon product.
US base ppl, I cannot stress this enough, check Ebay and you'll get a better product for less.
Which vortex mixer did you get?
Not related to this video, but I just watched a vid by Wyrmwood promoting their official game table, which runs from $5k-$30k. Your homemade table is infinitely better because of a single feature: it actually has enough space for everyone’s character sheets and books. Actually your table has several important features for RPGing that theirs lacks. So bravo, my man.
Yea, all those fancy gaming tables seem AWFUL to play on with the "3-"4 little lip around them. Where the hell are you supposed to put your stuff? Only works when they have extra slide out or flip out areas.
The only thing you need to watch out for if you are using the hematite is, if you are using multiples and they collide with each other, they can smash themselves into small debris.
Good point! I feel like in paint as thick as Vallejo that's unlikely to happen, but you never know.
For agitators, you can
1. Use little stones you can find anywhere. They don't rust. If you get them by a river or beach they'll be round.
2. You can use steel balls and gran them back with a magnet in a stick. Count the ones you put in to make sure you remove them all.
I use a paper clip straightened and attached to my mini-drill for a pair of seconds. much better and faster.
I use Army Painter and they are notoriously hard to shake. So thanks for the review!
Tips for new painters.
-Paints that need to be shaken/mixed more will appear as THIN. Just because you are no longer getting medium does not mean the paint has been mixed.
-Not all colors are the same, RED and YELLOW separate far faster and need to be shaken more. Black and metallic are normally some of the thinnest paints and require the least.
-How you store your paints effects how quickly they separate. Take a look at Jeremy's shelf on the left, he stores his paints laying down, which makes them easier to mix. Only the metallic are stored standing up.
Hematite - brilliant!
My old school solution was to keep bottled paint, like enamels, in a small plastic "basket." On washday I'd plop it on top of the washer or dryer and get them well-agitated once a week. All of them. But I did have BB's inside to help.
But I really prefer tube paints.
Great idea. Must give it a try.
I bought 1 of these not long ago. Used it and about a month it got burnt out. I decided to take it apart to see how it's made and to see if there were spots I can drill holes thru so I can cool it off. It's such a simple device to make to be honest. You could make a wooden base and have the middle open enough to have airflow so it doesn't burn itself out.
I have the robard it is essentially the same thing.. Go cheap..Reaper does put pewter skulls as agitators in their paints.
Absolutely agree. Do not use ball bearings. My XXXzon/XXXbay purchase rusted within weeks. Fortunately I only put them in a few pots which I subsequently fished them out. Don't use metal balls!
Steve Vickers This has been the opposite to my experience. I’ve been putting cheap metal BB’s into my paints for 10 years now. They are oxidizing slightly in the bag they came in, so I know they are not stainless steel. But I have never had them ruin any of my paints. I use Vallejo, Army Painter, Reaper, etc. This has not been an issue for me. Now, these shakers are still a good idea.
Golden high flow acrylics. Much better bottles. No thinning. Each has agitator inside. Unless I want a specific color from Vallejo, I go for Golden.
I finally got mini paint after two years and was really underwhelmed, the two golden high flows I have work way better for the majority of things.
I jury rigged a small bar clamp to fit in my jigsaw, which works but like you said, kind of a pain. I saw one of these a while ago a d wondered if they were good for mini paints, but completely forgot... until now! Thank you for the reminder good sir! You are a champion of the crafting cause.
Been using a Robart paint shaker for over 20 years, when it was a tan plastic housing. Also tried the cheap one from Chinamart (Amazon), works when it wants to. I admit I periodically take the Robart apart & lubricate the motor & linkage, but it's over 20 years old!
All my paints i use an agitator ball in the paint bottle. But since Model Master in off the market, I only use solvent based paints like enamels. Hardware store paint thinner works just find for thinning & clean up.
As a rule of thumb, you can use a magnet to test the iron content of the ball bearing. If they're magnetic, they are more likely to rust. If they do not stick to the magnet, they are usually safe to use. It's not a question of the "quality" of stainless, but rather the type. Austenetic vs ferretic stainless. Austenetic has more molyebdenum and chromium, making it more resistant to corrosion.
Hematite has a black to steel or silver-gray color in raw form, but when polished, its color ranges from a bright metallic luster to dark gray. Contact with water causes hematite to rust, typically turning the stone's surface into a reddish-brown or yellow color.
Army Painter's paints are quite thick - company is aware of that and so they started to sell own mixing balls. They are made of acid-proof stainless steel. They won't rust, so go ahead and buy them. One package has 100 pieces. Just add two balls to every bottle, and shake it in a shaker.
Although more expensive, I have a Typhoon vortex shaker. It is a refurbished laboratory shaker for hobby use. Mine came with a holder for Vallejo style dropper bottles and a flat plate that mixes other kinds of paint bottles. I have used mine with craft paints, Citadel, and several older brands. I have even restored Citadel paints that are 25 years old. Shaking the paint only takes seconds. Worth the extra cost in my opinion.
I use a jigsaw with a clamp in where the blade should go. It’s power is ferocious, it laughs all over any other type of paint shaker. Moves about 2 or 3 inches at a speed so high it appears to be in 2 places at once. With this and some Vallejo medium I have brought old GW paints the consistency of old blu tac back to almost as good as new condition. My jigsaw cost £19, I already had the clamp.
nice. At $23 its worth a try and as backup the jigsaw approach is worthwhile as I've got a 30 year old black and decker jigsaw that still works in a drawer in the garage.
Right on the money on putting the 'stainless' bearings in the salt water cup on the counter for a few days.
I made a paint shaker that handles most of my bottles. I bought an old Black and Decker jigsaw at a pawn shop on sale. After taxes it was about $3. I then attached a small bar clamp to the head that usually holds a blade. Now I clamp bottles with the clamp and turn on the saw for anywhere from a few seconds to a minute. Done. I have a few odd bottles that it doesn't work on. But it covers most of what I use. I've been trying to come up with a better way for the clamp part to work. But I figure I may just design and print some new specialty jaw inserts for the clamp when I get my 3D printer up and running.
Have been using #8-32 stainless nuts from hardware stores for over 35 years. Have never had a leaching problem. Hex shape plus hole makes them great agitators. Even used in glass testors and pactra bottles. As for shakers cheap hand held massagers self vulcanizing tape and leather laces from old boots. Round beads may clog, multiples could fracture even in liquid. Single torpedo shaped bead should give you the same cavitations as multiple round.
Most nail polish and spray paint cans use a nylon-coated steel bearing. Non reactive and the nylon coating makes it less likely to chip the inside of a glass paint/polish bottle. However, I can’t seem to find them available for retail purchase.
Fun fact: My friend’s dad patented the nylon coated bearing for this use, and the licensing sent both his kids to college.
I use a small quick-grip filed down on the end, so it fits into my dewalt jigsaw:) In my experience, if it havent mixed nicely in 30sec this way, the paint isnt worth the work to make it useable again. I use 1 acidproof 8mm nuts for agitators in each pot. Never seen them rust:)
I have a vibrating massager. I hold the paint containers next to it on fool blast and it mixes them up really well and in no time at all. I really need to get an attachment 3d printed for it that will hold the containers.
If someone is looking for something to mix their paints that they may already have around the home, I highly recommend this solution.
You can find hematite beads at Michaels, Hobby Lobby etc... Wait for the beads to go on sale. Sometimes up to %70 off, then buy a crap ton. I found a bunch of cube beads that seem to work really well. If you can't wait for a sale. Download their apps and they always have 40-50% off coupons.
I had a servo and Arduino sitting around. A bit of hot glue, popsicle sticks and a few lines of code I had a paint oscillator. It's not an instant shaker but it does work if you plan ahead what color you need next. It's also more than strong enough for 2-3 bottles at once. It also is easy to assemble and disassemble if I want the Arduino or servo for another use.
Fisher K-G-550-G vortex mixer can be had for under $60 on ebay if you keep your eyes open. If you are serious about mixing your paints this is the way to go.
Thank you for the hematite suggestion. I've been hesitantly looking at steel ball bearings, and was even debating about just grabbing a box of slingshot ammo from Canadian tire. Though seeing the shaker I am still back to considering pulling a Red Green on a hitachi or shake weight. Technically it should work especially with a few agitators thrown in... weird works.
I have joint issues so I bought a good vortex mixer (Four E's, around 80 GBP) for general mixing during painting sessions and a cheap 'cradle' type nail polish mixer for paints that have settled and separated as I can switch it on and leave it for a few minutes to do it's thing. I use steel mixing balls from Army Painter and AK.
I have used my case tumbler. I remove the media insure that the bottles are closed tight and leave them bouncing in the garage for a couple hours.
I use airport pellets. Most of the time I usually use 2, but for thicker paints 3 to 4. No worries for rust and you can get a few hundred for relativity inexpensive when you figure cost per bead.
Shake it up baby now, shake it up baby! Twist and shout, twist and shout...
'Cause the players gonna play, play, play, play, play
And the haters gonna hate, hate, hate, hate, hate
Baby, I'm just gonna shake, shake, shake, shake, shake
I shake it off, I shake it off
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial Ah! Here we go now,
Shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it
Shake it, shake it, shake it, shake it
Shake it like a Polaroid picture! Hey ya!
I own Games Workshop paints and what I did is put them in small bottles like what you're showing in the video using a small funnel. They had control dropper tips and were about 15 ml. Then I used some small (8-32) Stainless Steel nuts from Home Depot. This system is working great for me. I might be interested in the shaker now though.
I can tell you that Daisy brand Zinc-plated BB's won't rust or corrode. I make my own mold release using mineral spirits and petroleum jelly, and that's what I use. I've been re-filling the same bottle, with the same BB's, for over a year and have not had any problems.
I found a killer deal on a cheap jigsaw and made a paint holder out of an empty tylenol bottle, the included saw blade, and a whole lot of hot glue, zip ties, and two-part epoxy.
Now I can just drop in a paint, screw the cap on, and shake the everliving $#!& out of it.
Gork would be proud, spray it red
I have exactly the same ladies varnish shaker. A tip is to secure the paint bottle to the rubber strap right at the end of the bottle for more shake and drop a metal ball into it or two.
From what I understand, Reaper stopped using the miniature skull agitators a few years ago. You'd have to find an older bottle to still get one. You can see the agitator in some colors of the newer paint and it's just a dark bead.
Very good advice!
I have several batches of Reaper paints - the first batch I received (from kickstarter) did not come with agitators. The rest did.
A little over a year ago I purchased a vortex mixer (designed for test-tubes) like you mention at the start of the video. At ~$80CDN, it was about 3x the price of yours or 2x the price of the Robart but man - it only takes 2-5 seconds to mix anything I've thrown at it. Pricey... but quieter, faster, smaller footprint (about the size of a coffee mug,) and IMHO better looking than the alternatives.
I'd recommend that to anyone who likes nice tools and has the money to spare.
Prior to that, I'd use improvised shakers (hand sander and jigsaw). These were a pain in the arse in many ways, not least of which they were too bulky to leave out so I'd have to dig them out whenever needed.
I have apple barrel and folk art paints and I use marbles. I’ll have to get that shaker though it will definitely save my shoulder. Thank you for your constant inspiration.
For those, or the old large-mouth Reaper paint pots, I use pony beads. Drop in three or four and they work fine. (And you can buy them for $10 for about 1500 of them at Walmart. (I don't use the metal plated one, just in case they flake off the plating.)
Don't use it for craft paint, they're too heavy. And you can't trust the cap to stay closed. (Learn from my mistake!!! Don't do it.)
Hi you can use anything. acrylic paint is going to coat the object you put in the dropper. Keeping away air which is needed for rust oxidation
All the people with rust in their paint disagree.
I highly recommend grabbing yourself a vortex mixer, it is quiter, mixes better and will do so fast and without straps.
Mine isn't portable but there are a few mini vortex mixers from china floating about that apparently work well (I made up a multiple bottle holder for mine though so I can make sure all of my paints are mixed at least once a year)
You're right about vortex mixers not being inexpensive, but for $100 I grabbed a LabGenius Mini-Vortex recently, and it's absurd how quickly and perfectly it mixes after just a few seconds. You just press the bottle against the mixer and release when it looks good to go. Is it worth four of these? Too early to tell, for sure.
What about now? do you know it was worth the extra cost, is it quiet compared to these nail version?
I use the same thing as you after seeing Luke recommend it a while back. I think it was last year. Glad to see someone else using one. 👍
When my Reaper paints do eventually run out (or dry up) I pull out those little metal skulls. I've found 3 different sculpts over the years. I dig them out when the paint is no longer usable (some of them are over 15 years old!) and I still have a blast pulling apart the chunks of mushy wet rubber to find the prize in the middle!
Just wear gloves when you do. Trust me.
Really dug your tutorial on paint shakers. My question is: What’s your take on using lava beads? These are beads made from Lava Rock & dropped into a paint bottle as agitators? I’ve heard out there on social media that because it’s a natural rock from lava, it won’t harm your paints, can withstand long-term use in the paints & therefore make good agitators. Your reply is appreciated 🎨✌🏽
don't make the same mistake I made and start watching this video in the break room at work.
that was weird.
HAHAHAHAHA!!!!
I could see how that could get some weird looks lol
*Co-workers looking at you
You : "What, It was paint shaker video"
Co-worker: "Yeah sure thing, chris" *chuckles
I bought a similar model and like you have been pleased with the results.
Great tips as always. One issue I've run into as a novice painter, is after selecting the pots I plan to use (all Army Painter atm) I spend like 30 mins shaking them all up, even with 1-2 agitator beads. Right after this, my hands twitch from the exertion, like when you exercise and get that blood going. This makes it difficult to start putting that freshly shaken paint into intricate spots on minis.
When i shake a bottle by hand i usually thump it against the palm of hand. As a wargamer i always have scrap lead to drop into the bottles. But often i use the badger paint mixer.
Luke Towan here on RUclips has an awesome homemade paint shaker video that looks pretty cool. Just wanted to toss that out there for those that are inclined to build their own. He also has videos on making your own static grass applicator.
Not affiliated with him or anything, but he's another awesome crafter. And it amuses me to see two hobbies of mine collide here for others as well as myself.
Isn't that the paint shaker that jumps all over the place? Lol. It's a neat hobby toy, but the parts and materials he used aren't cheap. Fun to watch it leaping around though.
@@ShadowDrakken
Agreed, it is fun to watch jump around. LOL. And I agree that he used some expensive parts for that project, not to mention the 3d printed parts which put those plans outside my reach as well. I do like the variable speed control it has. But anyway just throwing it out there as a DIY solution to those who prefer that route and have access to those things. Besides, I enjoy throwing light on Luke's channel as well as this one, since they are both big favorites of mine.
It does jump around if not clamped down, though. :D
Built mine out of an old battery shaver , must try these beads
The cheap agitator is great even for Reaper paints. Sometimes they separate and just throwing it on there for a minute works wonders.
Using actual beads is a great idea.
The ear-studs are cool too.
Vortex mixer for me all the way. Found a basically brand new one on ebay for like $60. Mixes even the thickest paints in no time.
I like to use crossman copperhead BB's. The copper plating does not react with most paints.
The hematite beads are magnetic as well. You can use a spinning magnet to mix the paint as well
Old Reaper paints had skull agitators. But they stopped that a few years ago and the new ones are just beads.
Hematite works fine, but I prefer 3/0 lead shot, which is really cheap and works great.
From the people I've talked to, the Robart shaker is a cheap piece of junk too.
I'll also say that my refurbished vortex mixer is worth every penny of the $110 (IIRC) that I spent for it. Every single penny. 8-)
Knowing me I will get a vortex mixer eventually.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial 8-)
Came here to say this about the Reaper agitator.
1st - Reaper paints are great, period. Starter or experienced painter. I prefer them over every other brand that I've used, and I've been painting for years.
2nd - "fancy expensive Vortex mixers from science labs" - I bought a used Vortex mixer on eBay for about $30. While I've never used the paint shaker you show here, I'm willing to bet that the Vortex does a better job mixing paint. And it's super quiet.
3rd - I've never had luck with anything light weight like glass or hematite beads.... I buy the stainless ball bearings from AMMO and I've never had an issue with rust.
1. I agree, most times I find myself still grabbing for my Reaper paints over the Vallejo if I have similar colours from both. The exception being lighter colours.
2. They are better. Far better. But they take time and effort to source something used. If find one for $30 it's a better option.
3. It's hit and miss, and always a risk when buying.
I have glass beads used for scientific labs. They are cheap on ebay, glass is better than metal.
I've got glass beads too... from a nail polish and design supplier XD
I have the cheap nail polish mixer. The psu was open when it arrived so decided not to use it as the unit I got also takes batteries. Paints mix really well with the unit and stainless steel balls. I'm almost out of agitators so have ordered soom 4mm glass beads to give them a try.
I love my Vortex to the point I'd almost hate to paint without it. Cost around $60 off of E**y. Best money I have spent in the craft so far.
I made my own paint shaker from an old PC fan and a 12v DC adapter. Just added a weight to one fan blade so it would vibrate and tape the paint pot to the top. Also: Don't put metal ball bearings in vallejo metallic paints *at all* They leach out the pigments. Source: My gold paint that turned into silver poop with a clump of cooked egg like yellow pigment around the ball bearing.
I actually use the modified jigsaw option. It works well on the Vallejo paints, though it does take longer my other paints. Most paints take only a few seconds. Vallejo that has been sitting a while might take up to a minute... maybe. To make it, I bought the cheapest jigsaw I could find on Amazon, $20. Then, I bought a small trigger type clap from Harbor Freight for just a few bucks. So, only a few bucks cheaper than the nail polish shaker and you have to hold it. But, who doesn't want to be lazier when they can! I like your solution.
I found a hobby store online that sells small Borosilicate Glass beads for paint mixing which work really well, they are heavy and mix the paint easily. So far they haven't rusted. ;D
Thanks for the tip on the hematite beads. I got some stainless steel ball bearings and they are not as stainless as they said. I just ordered some beads.
I used some a long time ago, totally trashed a whole batch of paint. Agreed: don't do it!!!
I have a Robart shaker that I've used for many years, the AC version. I picked it up used with no straps but rubber bands and hair ties worked fine. The only problem with it is that i moved and can't find it now lol! I was debating buying another one or making one from a jig saw, but i could run into issues with the Vallejo bottles. But bottom line is a must have especially for what the price of these paints are
Great Vid!!! 100% true on the stainless balls bought some that even said great for paint mixing ...nope rusted in just hours. TEST THEM FIRST!
Yes I saw this tip sometime ago on another channel and bought one of these shakers. It’s brilliant although I have to hide it from my daughter!
Having used all types of mixers i couldnt be happier with my Vortex mixer, if i have used it from the start i wouldnt have spent money on crap cheap stuff before. Sometimes is better to go directly to the high end stuff
I sprung the bucks for the Robart version and it works. It's noisy, it's irritating, but it works really awesomely. I've actually been able to revive paints that I thought were dead using the Robart+agitators for extended shakings. I've heard the rumors about 'rust' but I've never seen any. Has anyone seen this rust action going on? I discovered that nail painters use the stainless steel ball bearings. For my large paint containers, I used plastic faux pearl beads that come in different sizes and are fairly heavy, and I really like the different sizes because it seems to work better. I was considering the hematite as well, but until I see some actual rust happening, I'm not going to worry about it; so far I've done good in finding quality stainless steel.
Amazon reviews of "stainless steel" ball bearings are full or reviews and user photos where they caused rusting.
I've been using my electric sander. It works well with most paints (even ones that have sat for a year plus)
This is the video I was looking for!!! I have at least a hundred bottles of Vallejo paint and most of them are already separated. Needless to say, I've been looking for practical solutions that are cost effective and not so time consuming. I will give this shaker a try for sure. However, as far as the agitator goes I still have many questions. For example, best material, size, weight, how many to put in, etc. I recently got my hands on the Space Dust range of colors from Vallejo and noticed that they came with a SS ball to agitate the paint but it doesn't state anywhere any information about the quality of its agitator.
I was actually just looking at the shakers a few days ago so your timing on this review is perfect. Thanks! And great tip on the hematite because I can say for a fact that BB Gun BB's will rust (doh!)
quick follow up. You may have said this in the video and I missed it, but the beads are coming from China so even though they say shipped pretty much the next day, they aren't due to arrive until between March 26 and April 10. So fair warning to folks, if you need/want the beads sooner than 3-4 weeks find another source.
The actually shaking machine though looks to only take 2-3 days at the most as mine is expected to arrive march 14 even though I ordered on March 11 and I went with the free shipping for orders over $25.
I was pleasantly surprised to hear you recommend hematite beads. I've been using those as it was something I just happened to have on hand from other crafting projects.
I got a cheap jigsaw from Harbor Freight for around $25. Attached a small DeWalt clamp to it where you insert the blade. It works amazing for shaking up paint bottles and only ran me around $35 total.
Yea, I'd rathe spend less and not have to dig out and hold a jig saw every time I want to shake paint. This thing sits nicely on my desk and it can work while I do other things.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial I get what you mean but I don't find it that much of an annoyance. I keep it plugged in under my paint desk so I just grab it and clamp a pot in. It will mix even old metallic paints in just a matter of seconds.
4:37 Fart?
made my day.
Yep I heard it too LOL
8:11 too
Man, you nailed this one. I got one of these cheap nail polish shakers about 3 months ago and have had nothing but success with it. Your advice on the hematite beads is stellar, too! I feared that my stainless steel bearings would rust, so added them sparingly to see. That tip alone made this video worth watching! On top of that, I had no idea my Reaper paints already have an agitator, or that two beads would mix much better than one. You're still taking us to school!
I've been using small glass beads that I got from Michaels, but they're probably too big for the valejo paint bottles. These may be a better choice since I'm going in that direction.
I was just recommend to your channel because my friends and I just started to play D&D and I'm getting so many good ideas and tips/tricks. Thank you! I'm definitely crafty and artistic, however this is a whole new world to me!
Welcome, it's a great world!
The Reaper paints used to have a pewter skull in them, but they ended up switching to glass beads. It just was taking too much time casting up skulls and removing them from sprues for the volume of paint that they sell.
Army painter make rust free stainless agitators as do AK.
You can also get nice little glass ones on eBay for $5 per 100.
2 good options.
Thanks for the video, I have Valejo paints and just a few Reaper. I tried shaking the hell out of the Valejo bottles by hand, and you're right, it would take forever to mix! really appreciate the info.
Not sure why but I've never had trouble with Vallejo Model Colours, they seem different to the Game colours. Haven't had any trouble with the Model colours seperating but I give them a good shake and lay them on a wet palette. I do really like their thick consitency.
I ordered glass mixing beads which work fine. Had never heard of hematite beads. They are probably heavier. Will try on next order.
I've not had a problem with the stainless bearings so far 😀 on the shakers I considered getting a cheap nail polish one the one you have in the video but with a lot of the online reviews saying how unreliable they were I looked further and found RUclips videos on using a jigsaw and a ratchet quick clamp and as I already had a jigsaw it made sense to go that way I just added a strap to make sure the paint doesn't fly off and drilled one of the grip pads to accept the Vallejo type bottles lids, given how fast it mixes the paint to a like new consistency I'm not sure the polish shakers could match it for speed of use. Plus you can still use the jigsaw as a jigsaw when you need to. I would say if your using paints that come in a glass bottle don't add the heavy agitators if your going to use a shaker it's a small risk but it could crack or break the glass. Sorry for the long post
I was thinking about this very topic recently. Thank you BMC for inspiring me into this hobby.
Every time I use epoxy putty I take the extra unused stuff because I always mix to much and roll it into balls to use as agitators. Doesn't rust, is fairly dense, and I am not wasting my expensive greenstuff.
Good idea, surprised it's heavy enough though.
@@BlackMagicCraftOfficial It's definitely not as dense as a steel one, but they seem to work well enough. I make them about the size of a pea and usually put two in a bottle.
The price of the one you bought is now $35.00 and the other one the Robart is actually cost $85..00 so even if this one dies after a couple of years you still win. Great video
Still going strong!