Great video! I think many Americans would be confused by the term "Fairy Liquid". It is the name of a common dishwashing detergent, similar to the american product "Dawn" dishwashing liquid.
The real protip is the base on the bottle of nuln oil. First bottle of agrax I ever bought ended up giving my entire workspace a nice even earthy tone as I knocked it over.
One things I wanted to add: It's even better if you use this to make your own "tone of wash" I started a Tyranid army, and after having decided for a color sheme I just mixed larger batches of the base colors (flesh and chitin) and washes and now speedpainting a 50 headcount swarm is a piece of cake. Use this to make the wash color you need not just replicate nulln etc.
A non-gamer but an avid life time artist/maker, I watch you guys on YT all the time. [Learning never stops!]. I think that some of you are really makers who like gaming, rather than vice-versa. It seems you have a great community but like the model-railway enthusiasts, you get stung when you walk the doors of your dedicated retaillers! This ongoing mission [yourself, Jeremy BMC, Wylock, Dark Matter WShop, Bard's etc] to make the experience affordable and obviously more enjoyable for more people is my kind of making. Everyone needs to be creative - not discouraged by expense. Great work guys, keep up the good work!
Gotta say, to someone who is not familiar with British products the sentence "all this is, is de-ionized water with a couple of drops of fairy liquid in it" sounds absolutely WILD
Deionised water is just distilled water (free of various dissolved mineral salt ions , as it were). AFAIK it's reasonably common worldwide for vehicle battery use and/or avoiding limescale in clothes irons, steamers etc. Fairy liquid , as mentioned, is a washing-up liquid aka dishsoap like dawn
so, with this you can make any shade of wash by just adding different dyes. found your channel yesterday and have watched a bunch of your videos. so far they are the best ones I have found.
I love the fast and dirty way you do things, one suggestion: make the brown first if you must use the same mixing brush. Black is just too opaque to mess with when contaminating the second mix. A tiny bit of brown may actually look nice anyway in the black (if seen at all). Minimal flow aid works as a wash, probably twice as much may work better as a liner / shade. You may want to try the "Ultra Matte Medium" by Liquitex for less "shimmer" but again may add to the expense. It all evens out in the end if you put a clear coat on over top anyway. Love the "home brew" stuff you make, putting product creation in the hands of the hobby folk is much appreciated.
Great video. I've used this method to create bright blue, bright green and dark red washes with Daler-Rowney Acrylic inks. There really is no limit to the amount of colors that you can make. There's even a white ink that makes a very interesting effect. Keep up the great work!
Pro tip, if you want your pledge to not be glossy, put in a small amount of cornstarch or talc. It will change the viscosity a tiny amount, and it will take a bit to mix it in, but the paint finish will be flat and quite nice. I've not tried it with the pledge method (only just discovered that today, thank you!) but with the ink and medium it works swimmingly, and when you use dish soap or rinse aid, you don't even need to mix it as hard, the reduced surface area helps to mix it in. You can do that to any paint that you need matte but it's glossy. it takes surprisingly little cornstarch (for those little shot glasses, literally a tiny pinch would do it)
Welp, the new price of Nuln Oil is just shy of the value of human blood, the 10th most expensive liquid on earth. Never been better to start making your own! I suggest doing a full series on this, it would do well from all the shrinkflation.
Excellent tip. I've never used any GW washes, but from what I understand color-wise Nuln Oil tends to have a little of brown in it and Aggrax Earthshade tends to have a little black in it so if you're looking to get an exact color match you could always play around with mixing inks in different ratios; personally I just prefer mixing the washes themselves together on a palette if I want something other than a single color wash.
Thank you so much! I just painted a Cawl mini and I was about to just use highly diluted black paint for the wash. Gonna pick up some floor polish tomorrow.
Nice vid thanks. An easy way to make distilled water is boil water 2 or 3 times in a kettle , let it go cold between each boil and then pour it in a bottle. Once cold it is distilled, or at least really close.
Great video! I always loved Devlan mud that GW used to make and could never stand the 'shades' they made afterwards. Your recipe with the Matt medium is far better! Thanks for sharing.
I recently discovered how easy and effective it is to airbrush nuln oil for a quick shade and panel lining. The downside is it goes through the nuln oil really really fast, so this should make it more economical.
Hi Luke just want to say a big thank you for your tutorials. I'v learnt so much from watching them, even set up my own workshop. Thanks again all the way from Australia. 😀
Great video, a small pot of Niln oil at my local hobby shop is $12... I'm going to make my own from now on. Thanks for the pro tip Luke, keep up the good work.
The floor polish one is some black magic witchery, you will end up protecting the paint as a bonus, a lot of people from the plasmo scene uses it as varnish before oil/enamel washes. It just works!
@@opsimathics No tutorial, no. I just mixed brown paint, pva glue and the dried herbs together, I also put some dried pine needles in a blender so they look like broken twigs and added a few to the mix but that's optional. I also added some fine sand to it and slapped it on a base. It took a good while to cure, at least a day but in the end it took washes and a drybrush pretty well.
Use the Force, Luke! But no kidding, it's a great idea and it works. I used Kiwi floor polish last 2 years, but that no longer exists. It's all Pledge now. Pledge works too, but gives different results. I'll definitely try the ink instead of other stuff ( like waterstain for wood or acrylic paint)
Glad I checked this video before hunting down the GW stuff which seems in high demand right now. I already have all this material so I can get started with what I have on hand for my channel's next project. Thanks for the tip!
OMG! I was following the video great until Fairy Liquid was mentioned. Being from the States, I thought he was referring to a type of Magic Potion! We do not have the Brand called Fairy Liquid. We have Dawn, Palmolive, etc. For awhile there, I thought I was going to have to seek out a Coven! Great Videos'. Please keep them coming!
Very nice tutorial, especially for terrain builders who need large amounts of cheap washes! I am just a bit afraid of myself right now. The first thing that came to my mind when seeing your stretched ear lobes was: Just the right size for Vallejo dropper bottles! ;-)
Nice tutorial with great results. I like that the recipe is not complicate and it is cost effective for large terrain projects. I dig the MDF bases on the notoriously tipping GW wash pots.
I know this is far from your most recent vid, but I watch your posts rather randomly, depending on what I'm working on currently. Long story short: thank you so much for your "how to make homemade ____" vids. I'm rather new to the hobby, (though I gave it a whirl a decade ago when a friend tried to lure me into 40k by giving me a squad of goblins of some type, which didn't take due to the fact I didn't have easy access to more minis, supplies in the least, or the patience) and as such am soaking in every piece of how-to I can. I don't currently earn alot (though who does) and so either need to make supplies myself, stretch expensive items further, or convert them to multi-purpose. Now a days I'm at least able to aquire decent minis or supplies via the web (tho usually at an inflated cost), or raw materials that will at least work, from the local mega mart. So again in short, thank you for showing different techniques on how to make what I have work. Keep up the good work!
Nice one Luke. Perhaps late to the party but I've just slopped a little over an entire bottle of Strong tone on a set of resin scatter pieces, the time has come to make my own.
awesome trick...I'm pretty new in the hobby and I'm KILLING the old Army Painter strong tone...perhaps, with the vast savings, I'll finally be able to CONQUER THE WORLD...or buy some more paints....
Come on now it's not rocket science people.I like when making my own over the pre made Nuln Oil or Agrax as you can go lighter or darker as you see fit. And it saves money to get even more figures. :) Another nice video Luke good on you mate.
I live in an area on the Canadian Prairies where the water is quite hard. I've found that just running it through a Brita filter system first makes a huge difference. (Just fyi).
Fantastic tutorial, my friend! It's AMAZING how simple it is to grab some ink and floor polish to get a great wash! Thanks for the info! ~ Wolfbrother Methos
Hello, Luke! WOW!!! What a great tip! I render Sc-Fi/Monster busts...I'll experiment this weekend with your two solutions. Great videos...learning something NEW with every view. Thank You so much for these! Stay safe. Marty (From Canada)
Great tips! Will definitely try these out. Had a alot of succes with the rinse-aid one, but sometimes the miniatures remain ''sticky'' after they have dried. These tips might work better though, so i'm looking forward to trying them out! Thanks for sharing!
Hi, I didnt catch what you said you added to the professional Matt Medium. Flow aid, but what exactly? Fairy? Sorry no native speaker,cant pick it up. (if Fairy you mean dish soap?) Thanks mate, liked the recipe
Dude gluing a big disc on the bottom of your washes!? why didn't I think of that? I've knocked over so many bottles of wash. Keep up the great content!
Just a heads up. There is no practical difference between deionised and distilled water. They are both pure water. The name difference is the production method.
Also, when you buy a bottle of water at the mall, it's often distilled water. Purified water is distilled water that's been purified a bit more to remove some chemical. I think all that is just the same. You should be able to buy a gallon for $2.
Large hobby companies hate this one simple trick. You sir are a hero. Don't get me wrong, I love GW's models and settings, but thier inferred monopoly on all hobby products (that are in some cases just a repackaging of existing products *cough* kneadite *cough* tape measures *cough* 75p carving tools sold as 'modelling tools' for £5) is beyond exploitative. They pray on the ignorance of thier customers. Which is a dick move in my opinion.
Just a thought if you mix the brown wash first you probably wouldn't need as much brown as the black ink you added in with the brush probably messed with your tint
Having a heck of a time finding that Pledge you used. I found more than a couple similar, or possibly the same with a new label. Really like the idea of mixing up a whole bottle of this in dropper bottles for quick washes over small scatter terrain bits and bases and knocking down the shine with matte varnish. I already have an array of inks that my wife bought me recently and a search brought me here. Anyone got a link to a place I can buy a bottle of this stuff? Really don't want to end up with a waxy finish or something that won't take paint after the fact. On a mini, I could just test and strip, but on a foam terrain piece, that could ruin a lot of work. Thanks for the video either way. Love this kind of flexibility where there's a "proper" way to do it, then an "effective, but cheap with some caveats" way.
Great stuff, how do ink washes compare to enamel washes? I'm thinking I could make ink rust washes too with burnt sienna, raw sienna, yellow oxide and red oxide inks plus all the streaking grime/rust and engine grime etc. I guess a neutral grey ink could also replicate rain streaks and yellows could do sand and dusts and after a dull varnish I could use them for fuel and oil stains too as they pledge medium is glossy. Could I add some plaster or tile grout to the wash and get the dirt deposits too effect too? Could be a LOT cheaper than buying all these expensive weathering products.
In Australia the Winsor & Newton Galeria Matte Medium 250ml bottle alone costs $50 AUD :( The stupid thing is, it costs $20 AUD Less to purchase it via Ebay and have it shipped from literally the other side of the world, the UK. OR $35 AUD for Winsor & Newton Professional Acrylic Matt Medium, 500ml via Amazon with free shipping.
maybe a tip, use acrylic ink instead of regular ink, it's more intensive, more vivid color, the shade is much better, and also available as a cheaper art material…
Great video Luke! Could you tell us how long the drying time is on the Pledge wash and should I leave it to cure before laying down anymore washes/paint?
Hi Luke have you got any vids on making miniature paints? I've mastered the washes now, so cheers for that you've saved me a fortune!! Now can you save me some more 😉👍🏻
Ive made wonderful washes now with the medium technique. But none are as awesome as the actual nuln and aggrax sofar. I either need to step my mixing game up or need to find better inks
Thanks for the video, can I ask if you can test a product called Quickshine Multi-Surface Floor Finish as Pledge seems to be harder to find and is even more expensive than Liquidtex matt medium?
Great video! I think many Americans would be confused by the term "Fairy Liquid".
It is the name of a common dishwashing detergent, similar to the american product "Dawn" dishwashing liquid.
Thank you so much for commenting this. I played that part so many times. I was thinking, ferro-liquid? Faraliquid? Good to know it's just soap.
Except that Dawn is superior.
Lol, as an Iraqi, I grasped that immediately,
Fairy has a brand in Middle East called Fairy Tawfiri "فيري توفيري" which means Fairy the affordable.
The real protip is the base on the bottle of nuln oil. First bottle of agrax I ever bought ended up giving my entire workspace a nice even earthy tone as I knocked it over.
A quick drybrush and your workspace would really have 'popped' - I bet you did!
@@negotiableaffections Really bring out the highlights.
I did the same with Nuln oil.
Same🤣
Same but with Biel tan green. Got myself psyched up to start painting again after about 15 years and that happens. Luckily I had some pipettes.
One things I wanted to add:
It's even better if you use this to make your own "tone of wash"
I started a Tyranid army, and after having decided for a color sheme I just mixed larger batches of the base colors (flesh and chitin) and washes and now speedpainting a 50 headcount swarm is a piece of cake.
Use this to make the wash color you need not just replicate nulln etc.
Miss this channel. Thanks for the info again.
A non-gamer but an avid life time artist/maker, I watch you guys on YT all the time. [Learning never stops!]. I think that some of you are really makers who like gaming, rather than vice-versa. It seems you have a great community but like the model-railway enthusiasts, you get stung when you walk the doors of your dedicated retaillers! This ongoing mission [yourself, Jeremy BMC, Wylock, Dark Matter WShop, Bard's etc] to make the experience affordable and obviously more enjoyable for more people is my kind of making. Everyone needs to be creative - not discouraged by expense. Great work guys, keep up the good work!
The Black matt medium makes the model with that white base coat look like it was pulled straight from a comic book I love that
I found a sweet way to get rid of the shine with the pledge mix. I used a heat gun on low just until the shine dulled...Came out awesome!!!
Australian Equivalent to Pledge: Long Life 1L Self Shining Floor Polish.
Excellent - had managed to get a friend overseas to send some Pledge a couple of years ago. Bunnings is less than 1km away :-)
@@andreweckford6319 thank god for Bunnings!
We have Blem acrylic polish here. It's J&J chemistry, different name
Haha just clicked that you have a base stuck to your wash to stop it spilling, genius man!😂
Gotta say, to someone who is not familiar with British products the sentence "all this is, is de-ionized water with a couple of drops of fairy liquid in it" sounds absolutely WILD
Underrated comment
BUT WHAT DOES IT MEAN
🤣🤣🤣 fairy liquid is just the most popular brand of washing up liquid in the UK (a.k.a. "dish soap")
@@tomclarkeUK not just in the uk xp
Deionised water is just distilled water (free of various dissolved mineral salt ions , as it were). AFAIK it's reasonably common worldwide for vehicle battery use and/or avoiding limescale in clothes irons, steamers etc. Fairy liquid , as mentioned, is a washing-up liquid aka dishsoap like dawn
so, with this you can make any shade of wash by just adding different dyes.
found your channel yesterday and have watched a bunch of your videos.
so far they are the best ones I have found.
I love the fast and dirty way you do things, one suggestion: make the brown first if you must use the same mixing brush.
Black is just too opaque to mess with when contaminating the second mix.
A tiny bit of brown may actually look nice anyway in the black (if seen at all).
Minimal flow aid works as a wash, probably twice as much may work better as a liner / shade.
You may want to try the "Ultra Matte Medium" by Liquitex for less "shimmer" but again may add to the expense.
It all evens out in the end if you put a clear coat on over top anyway.
Love the "home brew" stuff you make, putting product creation in the hands of the hobby folk is much appreciated.
Great video. I've used this method to create bright blue, bright green and dark red washes with Daler-Rowney Acrylic inks. There really is no limit to the amount of colors that you can make. There's even a white ink that makes a very interesting effect. Keep up the great work!
Pro tip, if you want your pledge to not be glossy, put in a small amount of cornstarch or talc. It will change the viscosity a tiny amount, and it will take a bit to mix it in, but the paint finish will be flat and quite nice. I've not tried it with the pledge method (only just discovered that today, thank you!) but with the ink and medium it works swimmingly, and when you use dish soap or rinse aid, you don't even need to mix it as hard, the reduced surface area helps to mix it in. You can do that to any paint that you need matte but it's glossy. it takes surprisingly little cornstarch (for those little shot glasses, literally a tiny pinch would do it)
That homemade Nuln Oil from the matte medium, deionized water, and ink gives a really neat "Black and White comic book" look. I like it!
So 85 drops of brown?
Still 85. Look like Citadel Workers.
Welp, the new price of Nuln Oil is just shy of the value of human blood, the 10th most expensive liquid on earth. Never been better to start making your own!
I suggest doing a full series on this, it would do well from all the shrinkflation.
Big thanks for this - you just saved me a fortune 👍
11:23 "this one's slightly DAKKA!"
I looked up what "dakker" meant in an artist's sense, when I finally realized you were saying "darker."
Dakka dakka!
All good Ork Shading needs plenty DAkka
MOAR DAKKA DAKKA!
If you add a bit of blue to your black it will give you noticeable depth to your black. Not a miniature expert but I have studied color theory.
would you suggest a little red or yellow to the brown too? Or would the brown naturally have some of that?
So my printer isnt lying when it uses blue in black and white only prints
Excellent tip. I've never used any GW washes, but from what I understand color-wise Nuln Oil tends to have a little of brown in it and Aggrax Earthshade tends to have a little black in it so if you're looking to get an exact color match you could always play around with mixing inks in different ratios; personally I just prefer mixing the washes themselves together on a palette if I want something other than a single color wash.
Thank you so much! I just painted a Cawl mini and I was about to just use highly diluted black paint for the wash. Gonna pick up some floor polish tomorrow.
Nice vid thanks. An easy way to make distilled water is boil water 2 or 3 times in a kettle , let it go cold between each boil and then pour it in a bottle. Once cold it is distilled, or at least really close.
Oh, man. This is just what I needed. I kept trying ways to thin down my washes but to hell with it, i'll just make my own now
Great video! I always loved Devlan mud that GW used to make and could never stand the 'shades' they made afterwards. Your recipe with the Matt medium is far better! Thanks for sharing.
I recently discovered how easy and effective it is to airbrush nuln oil for a quick shade and panel lining. The downside is it goes through the nuln oil really really fast, so this should make it more economical.
Just done some Newton windsor black ink and deidonized water and won't need anymore for ages cheers luke
Hi Luke just want to say a big thank you for your tutorials. I'v learnt so much from watching them, even set up my own workshop. Thanks again all the way from Australia. 😀
Great video, a small pot of Niln oil at my local hobby shop is $12... I'm going to make my own from now on. Thanks for the pro tip Luke, keep up the good work.
I didn't know about the polish products to use as a medium, man that is nuts thanks for doing this
I totally get what you're saying about the water, I've put tap water in a spray bottle and it grew green algae!
The floor polish one is some black magic witchery, you will end up protecting the paint as a bonus, a lot of people from the plasmo scene uses it as varnish before oil/enamel washes. It just works!
I make my own texture paints. Just fine sand, pva-glue and cheap acrylic paint. No need to buy that overly expensive stuff from GW 😀
Ok, thanks for the tip :-) I sometimes add chopped up dried herbs and such to it, makes for a very nice leafmulch on a forestfloor ;-)
@@patricklefevre1342 do you have a tutorial on this? It sounds interesting
@@opsimathics No tutorial, no. I just mixed brown paint, pva glue and the dried herbs together, I also put some dried pine needles in a blender so they look like broken twigs and added a few to the mix but that's optional. I also added some fine sand to it and slapped it on a base. It took a good while to cure, at least a day but in the end it took washes and a drybrush pretty well.
Man, this is such a great way to make washes.
Use the Force, Luke! But no kidding, it's a great idea and it works. I used Kiwi floor polish last 2 years, but that no longer exists. It's all Pledge now. Pledge works too, but gives different results.
I'll definitely try the ink instead of other stuff ( like waterstain for wood or acrylic paint)
Glad I checked this video before hunting down the GW stuff which seems in high demand right now. I already have all this material so I can get started with what I have on hand for my channel's next project. Thanks for the tip!
OMG! I was following the video great until Fairy Liquid was mentioned. Being from the States, I thought he was referring to a type of Magic Potion! We do not have the Brand called Fairy Liquid. We have Dawn, Palmolive, etc. For awhile there, I thought I was going to have to seek out a Coven! Great Videos'. Please keep them coming!
IIRC Fairy is the European marketing name for Dawn
Thought I was the only one! Lol great video
Very nice tutorial, especially for terrain builders who need large amounts of cheap washes!
I am just a bit afraid of myself right now. The first thing that came to my mind when seeing your stretched ear lobes was: Just the right size for Vallejo dropper bottles! ;-)
just subbed... love finding cheep easy ways to do miniatures and terrain with out spending a butt tone of money.
Thank you for sharing this technique. Winsor & Newton matt mediums now ordered ... cheers
Nice tutorial with great results. I like that the recipe is not complicate and it is cost effective for large terrain projects. I dig the MDF bases on the notoriously tipping GW wash pots.
so true about tipping the damn gw wash pot :-). For that reason alone it is worth making them yourself ;)
Gonna try this this evening.
But I’m not going to squeeze the dropper tops before I open the ink pots every time :D
Keep up the sterling work !!
I recommend this to every painter I know. It's an awesome recipe. Thanks, Luke!
The brown/Pledge one gave the model kind of a Borderlands look, actually preferred the Pledge looks better! Excellent video.
I know this is far from your most recent vid, but I watch your posts rather randomly, depending on what I'm working on currently. Long story short: thank you so much for your "how to make homemade ____" vids. I'm rather new to the hobby, (though I gave it a whirl a decade ago when a friend tried to lure me into 40k by giving me a squad of goblins of some type, which didn't take due to the fact I didn't have easy access to more minis, supplies in the least, or the patience) and as such am soaking in every piece of how-to I can. I don't currently earn alot (though who does) and so either need to make supplies myself, stretch expensive items further, or convert them to multi-purpose. Now a days I'm at least able to aquire decent minis or supplies via the web (tho usually at an inflated cost), or raw materials that will at least work, from the local mega mart. So again in short, thank you for showing different techniques on how to make what I have work. Keep up the good work!
Nice one Luke. Perhaps late to the party but I've just slopped a little over an entire bottle of Strong tone on a set of resin scatter pieces, the time has come to make my own.
awesome trick...I'm pretty new in the hobby and I'm KILLING the old Army Painter strong tone...perhaps, with the vast savings, I'll finally be able to CONQUER THE WORLD...or buy some more paints....
when you talked about the flow aid, you said its deonized water with a couple of drops of ??fairy liquid??? did i hear wrong? What is that?
Ah, this is brilliant. My partner is planning on using a ton of dark tone wash in the future.... And this will definitely be useful. Plus fun.
That was very informative... I really enjoyed knowing that pledge polish made a very nice Wash
Hmm, I'm going to have to try this.
so you added a small plasticard? base to your washes to keep em from getting knocked over as easily?
Come on now it's not rocket science people.I like when making my own over the pre made Nuln Oil or Agrax as you can go lighter or darker as you see fit. And it saves money to get even more figures. :) Another nice video Luke good on you mate.
Great tips, they make so much money off the tiny bottles, it certainly handy knowing how to make it.
Luke once again you`ve hit out of the ballpark , thanks dude! Bonus trivia: dat beard really suits you, keep it up pls.
I live in an area on the Canadian Prairies where the water is quite hard.
I've found that just running it through a Brita filter system first makes a huge difference. (Just fyi).
im still using the Elegoo mars 1 and i got it 2nd hand and the quality still impresses me is i were to upgrade i think it'd blow my mind
I also use the matt medium plus pure water as an airbrush thinner. Ratio 1:10 which is roughly the mix your making here.
Fantastic tutorial, my friend! It's AMAZING how simple it is to grab some ink and floor polish to get a great wash! Thanks for the info!
~ Wolfbrother Methos
Love your videos! Some of the best tips in the business!
Hello, Luke! WOW!!! What a great tip! I render Sc-Fi/Monster busts...I'll experiment this weekend with your two solutions. Great videos...learning something NEW with every view. Thank You so much for these! Stay safe. Marty (From Canada)
Great tips! Will definitely try these out. Had a alot of succes with the rinse-aid one, but sometimes the miniatures remain ''sticky'' after they have dried. These tips might work better though, so i'm looking forward to trying them out! Thanks for sharing!
late to the party but did you find the solution to your "sticky" problem?
Great video - one of your best tips.
What colour would you add to the medium/water mix to simulate 'Fleshshade' ?
You probably figured this out but I’d mix pink ink and maybe brown? Or yellow maybe, in whatever ratio worked.
Thanks for this... Ounce per ounce Nuln oil is more expensive than crude oil!
Hi, I didnt catch what you said you added to the professional Matt Medium. Flow aid, but what exactly? Fairy? Sorry no native speaker,cant pick it up. (if Fairy you mean dish soap?)
Thanks mate, liked the recipe
Yeah, it's a dish soap brand. Basically any soap will do (it breaks the surface tension) or you can use the rinse aid meant for a dishwasher machine.
ruclips.net/video/N_9JqC9ykBg/видео.html
I pulled the captions up and it said nice water with some fairly water in it, lol
Dude gluing a big disc on the bottom of your washes!? why didn't I think of that? I've knocked over so many bottles of wash. Keep up the great content!
I just found your channel. Thank you for all the tricks! 👍👏
After washing they look like film noir Orks lol.
Amazing vid
Just a heads up. There is no practical difference between deionised and distilled water. They are both pure water. The name difference is the production method.
Also, when you buy a bottle of water at the mall, it's often distilled water. Purified water is distilled water that's been purified a bit more to remove some chemical. I think all that is just the same. You should be able to buy a gallon for $2.
De-ionized water doesn't conduct electricity
I know this is super old. Its actually not true. one is a type of filter - rodi water is better filtration. Commonly used for fish tanks etc.
Nice, well done for putting that out there, really really useful for people not in the know.
So what sort of ratio of Matt Medium to Water are we talking: 1:4? 1:5?
Hi Luke, great bid...very helpful and so good to hear a proper accent 😁😁😁
Brilliant! Thanks for explaining the role of each additive to 👍
Thanks for this vid Luke you've saved me a bomb brought a load of inks and replacing the ones I'm running low on. Cheers mate 😉👍🏻
Thank you brother, you saved my butt a good bit of money!!
Brilliant my friend. I'm in for doing this as well. Looks like it works very well, and wow, what a savings.
Large hobby companies hate this one simple trick. You sir are a hero.
Don't get me wrong, I love GW's models and settings, but thier inferred monopoly on all hobby products (that are in some cases just a repackaging of existing products *cough* kneadite *cough* tape measures *cough* 75p carving tools sold as 'modelling tools' for £5) is beyond exploitative. They pray on the ignorance of thier customers. Which is a dick move in my opinion.
Just a thought if you mix the brown wash first you probably wouldn't need as much brown as the black ink you added in with the brush probably messed with your tint
And this is applicable to any color you just need the ink to add. Good to know mate
Great video, Luke. Thanks mate. I go through so much Agrax Earthshade it's inreal!
Thanks for this. What are the quantities for larger amount like a litre? Also any idea on what colour ink to use for seraphim sepia?
Thanks for sharing. Love your videos. Much appreciated.
Having a heck of a time finding that Pledge you used. I found more than a couple similar, or possibly the same with a new label. Really like the idea of mixing up a whole bottle of this in dropper bottles for quick washes over small scatter terrain bits and bases and knocking down the shine with matte varnish.
I already have an array of inks that my wife bought me recently and a search brought me here.
Anyone got a link to a place I can buy a bottle of this stuff? Really don't want to end up with a waxy finish or something that won't take paint after the fact. On a mini, I could just test and strip, but on a foam terrain piece, that could ruin a lot of work.
Thanks for the video either way. Love this kind of flexibility where there's a "proper" way to do it, then an "effective, but cheap with some caveats" way.
I’d just use actual gloss acrylic medium, it’s not expensive
Great stuff, how do ink washes compare to enamel washes? I'm thinking I could make ink rust washes too with burnt sienna, raw sienna, yellow oxide and red oxide inks plus all the streaking grime/rust and engine grime etc. I guess a neutral grey ink could also replicate rain streaks and yellows could do sand and dusts and after a dull varnish I could use them for fuel and oil stains too as they pledge medium is glossy. Could I add some plaster or tile grout to the wash and get the dirt deposits too effect too? Could be a LOT cheaper than buying all these expensive weathering products.
I believe
fairy liquid is "Fairy " brand dish soap (Probably English) and water
Rob Hinds I was curious about this. Thought it was a slang for glycerin or something.
Imagins being raked over the coals by gw prices and crap bottels when this has been available
also, i think you can control the pitch and tone of the brown if you add a primary color.
In Australia the Winsor & Newton Galeria Matte Medium 250ml bottle alone costs $50 AUD :( The stupid thing is, it costs $20 AUD Less to purchase it via Ebay and have it shipped from literally the other side of the world, the UK. OR $35 AUD for Winsor & Newton Professional Acrylic Matt Medium, 500ml via Amazon with free shipping.
Luke's APS, would I be right in saying that the matt medium is essentially lahmiam medium only not watered down?
Great video
maybe a tip, use acrylic ink instead of regular ink, it's more intensive, more vivid color, the shade is much better, and also available as a cheaper art material…
Great video Luke! Could you tell us how long the drying time is on the Pledge wash and should I leave it to cure before laying down anymore washes/paint?
Really good video, well laid-out and you explained everything clearly. Definitely going to give this a go, thanks!
Hi Luke have you got any vids on making miniature paints? I've mastered the washes now, so cheers for that you've saved me a fortune!! Now can you save me some more 😉👍🏻
En Uruguay y probablemente en otros lugares de América Latina; el equivalente de Pledge es Blem
Graciela
very very thanks and Feliz Natal
Any links on Amazon or something for that Pledge?
I been searching but only find "finish" and "gloss"
Unless those are the same?
Ive made wonderful washes now with the medium technique. But none are as awesome as the actual nuln and aggrax sofar. I either need to step my mixing game up or need to find better inks
Nice share Luke
That paint rack behind you is JUST what I am looking for..Can you tell me where you got it?
Thanks for the video, can I ask if you can test a product called Quickshine Multi-Surface Floor Finish as Pledge seems to be harder to find and is even more expensive than Liquidtex matt medium?