I hope you get back to looking over random people’s systems and finding their issues suggesting resolutions and recommending upgrades. That’s why I subscribed.
I love how after watching a video I think to myself, ya know, I wanted to ask that question but didn't know how and/or didn't realize I didn't know that was a thing! Another great vid!
I do use voltage drop trick for LED lighting, it also makes them last much longer. For some of them, which were too bright I even use a dc step down and run them on around 10 volts. Cheers form Ukraine. Love your vids ❤
People need to realize that each load needs its own calculation. That being said, all my dc loads get 10awg duplex anchor wire. I have no loads that this wire can’t handle. My AC loads also all get 10awg wire. I also don’t have AC loads greater than 20amp. This helps me keep wire and connector inventory simple. And now the only calculation I need to make is for the proper fuse. Base system wires can also be oversized. In particular battery to busbar I go for bigger. Also for busbar to inverter. My thinking here is, if I add a battery or get a larger inverter, then I already have the proper wire in place.
It's amazing the considerations and presumptions built into charts (and calculators). The cost of wire is so high that it's tempting to relax input criteria (mainly expected loads).
😂😂😂, just a heads up, though, if you are trying to get ahead, all of our lessons in the academy are uploaded as completed on academy.explorist.life/ With RUclips, we have to play 'algorithm games' so that RUclips will distribute our videos to a wider audience, which includes publishing on a regular schedule. Inside our paid academy, we can release videos whenever they are finished because there is no algorithm. In addition to this; we also have all lessons numbered in their titles so that if you are actually trying to learn; it's easy to go in order. This is another thing we can't do on YT due to algorithm games. Lastly, in the paid academy, since you're paying for it... there are no pre-roll or mid-roll ads that play, interrupting your education. If you're fine with being patient and waiting for the coming weeks and don't mind watching the ads; that's totally fine! A core component of EXPLORIST.life is providing free education; so these videos will continue to roll out in time here on this RUclips channel for completely free.
You do evaluate at the wire size a devices' terminals can handle. Very important to not overlook. *disclaimer:* I paused the video just before 8:40 to write this diatribe. _oops._ However, if a users desire for restrictive voltage drops and/or extreme wire lengths - (like a 50 foot round trip circuit in a 19' vehicle) pushes you to a larger wire cross-section, I think it is permissible to properly terminate a reducing ferrule adapter as an option. In this case, it is not the current draw that determines the wire size. Those conditions aren't the fault of an equipment manufacturer to necessarily disqualify a particular device that is rated for the current load. Along with checking stud sizes, I also double-check the acceptable wire sizes in Anderson connectors in use. Housings are another item that might need to be up-sized due to terminal availability, rather than current-carrying ability. Although consistent wire sizes is usually a plus, sometimes I find it useful to take advantage of the variety of terminal sizes in a given PP or SB connector to downsize to a devices requirements for short lengths. A few inches of 8 or 10 gauge wire isn't going to affect voltage drop much where 4 gauge wire is employed for 15 - 25 feet of a 30 amp 12 volt circuit. thanks for all of the resources!
I'm new to your channel and I've been watching a ton of your videos over the last couple weeks. I love how helpful every video is. With that being said how could I get a hold of you? I'm about to start my van build and would like to get your input on my off-grid solar setup.
If this is a pre-sales question (in other words; you are going to be buying your electrical parts/kits/components from us), you can submit a pre-sales support ticket at shop.exploirst.life/support with your questions.
Be aware that many of the online wire size calculators have 3 to 1m minimum cable lenght even if you are able to plot in 10cm. I found this out when calculating the wire size for a 10cm battery interconnect and the calculators gave wildly different answers (4mm2 to 120mm2) for the same cable lenght.
I do understand the need for double the distance between devices in the calculator but what if I'm calculating gauge for dc-dc charger and I will use chassis groud? Distance between starter battery and second battery will be at max 10ft. I will be using Renogy DCC30S where they say to use 45-60A input (from alt.) fuse. In this exaple should I aslo double the distance for the positive wire gauge calculation?
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I know I'm adding to the complexity, but I have a 4-fuse BlueSea fuse block for some of my "remote" smaller lighting connections, and for fused connections (those branching off the block) it says 16g is the smallest/minimum recommended wire. This is confusing since so many LED light products use 18-22g wire. Any thoughts on how to best proceed and still have a central fuse block?
" to abandon the product in that application" - Hm I had a problem with some Victron MPPT 100/50. They are installed some distance from the batteries so due to low drop I wanted to use 35mm² - but this was to much for the MPPT. I crimped a short 10mm² at the end.
You started the quote too late. The first part was "*I would be prepared* to abandon the product in that application". In other words; I would consider it unless I had a good reason to not do so.
In that particular instance, though, I would do everyhting in my power to get the charge controller to the Lynx Distributor so that purposefully oversized wire would not be necessary.
That comment was more for everybody reading through this comment section and I'd say that a system where the batteries are 2 stories away from the charge controller is an exception and not the norm and would fall outside of the standard decision making tree discussed int his video that most people are clicking on this video to watch for.
I hope you get back to looking over random people’s systems and finding their issues suggesting resolutions and recommending upgrades. That’s why I subscribed.
We do those kinds of videos when we go to events, typically.
I love how after watching a video I think to myself, ya know, I wanted to ask that question but didn't know how and/or didn't realize I didn't know that was a thing! Another great vid!
Your wire size calculator, and all your calculators, are the reason I’m doing my own projects, otherwise it’ll be 2awg for everything😆..
We've got a system design coming out soon where the components are sized so that we can use 6AWG for EVERYTHING. 🤣😁
Thanks Nate. You explain things so well.
I do use voltage drop trick for LED lighting, it also makes them last much longer. For some of them, which were too bright I even use a dc step down and run them on around 10 volts. Cheers form Ukraine. Love your vids ❤
People need to realize that each load needs its own calculation.
That being said, all my dc loads get 10awg duplex anchor wire. I have no loads that this wire can’t handle.
My AC loads also all get 10awg wire. I also don’t have AC loads greater than 20amp.
This helps me keep wire and connector inventory simple. And now the only calculation I need to make is for the proper fuse.
Base system wires can also be oversized. In particular battery to busbar I go for bigger. Also for busbar to inverter. My thinking here is, if I add a battery or get a larger inverter, then I already have the proper wire in place.
It's amazing the considerations and presumptions built into charts (and calculators). The cost of wire is so high that it's tempting to relax input criteria (mainly expected loads).
Good stuff. I need to watch all your videos before I build my skoolie electrical system.
Glad it was helpful! The kits at shop.explorist.life are also here to help 😉
Lol today in "Things I needed a month ago"
😂😂😂, just a heads up, though, if you are trying to get ahead, all of our lessons in the academy are uploaded as completed on academy.explorist.life/
With RUclips, we have to play 'algorithm games' so that RUclips will distribute our videos to a wider audience, which includes publishing on a regular schedule. Inside our paid academy, we can release videos whenever they are finished because there is no algorithm.
In addition to this; we also have all lessons numbered in their titles so that if you are actually trying to learn; it's easy to go in order. This is another thing we can't do on YT due to algorithm games.
Lastly, in the paid academy, since you're paying for it... there are no pre-roll or mid-roll ads that play, interrupting your education.
If you're fine with being patient and waiting for the coming weeks and don't mind watching the ads; that's totally fine! A core component of EXPLORIST.life is providing free education; so these videos will continue to roll out in time here on this RUclips channel for completely free.
Good information
Hey @timf6916, Thanks so much! Cheers!
You do evaluate at the wire size a devices' terminals can handle. Very important to not overlook.
*disclaimer:* I paused the video just before 8:40 to write this diatribe. _oops._
However, if a users desire for restrictive voltage drops and/or extreme wire lengths - (like a 50 foot round trip circuit in a 19' vehicle) pushes you to a larger wire cross-section, I think it is permissible to properly terminate a reducing ferrule adapter as an option. In this case, it is not the current draw that determines the wire size. Those conditions aren't the fault of an equipment manufacturer to necessarily disqualify a particular device that is rated for the current load.
Along with checking stud sizes, I also double-check the acceptable wire sizes in Anderson connectors in use. Housings are another item that might need to be up-sized due to terminal availability, rather than current-carrying ability.
Although consistent wire sizes is usually a plus, sometimes I find it useful to take advantage of the variety of terminal sizes in a given PP or SB connector to downsize to a devices requirements for short lengths. A few inches of 8 or 10 gauge wire isn't going to affect voltage drop much where 4 gauge wire is employed for 15 - 25 feet of a 30 amp 12 volt circuit.
thanks for all of the resources!
I'm new to your channel and I've been watching a ton of your videos over the last couple weeks. I love how helpful every video is. With that being said how could I get a hold of you? I'm about to start my van build and would like to get your input on my off-grid solar setup.
If this is a pre-sales question (in other words; you are going to be buying your electrical parts/kits/components from us), you can submit a pre-sales support ticket at shop.exploirst.life/support with your questions.
Good job my friend
Excellent overall review and recommendations. Do you cover when and how to properly use wire ferrules for screw terminals?
Wire terminals are coming up in ch 4 of the academy.
Be aware that many of the online wire size calculators have 3 to 1m minimum cable lenght even if you are able to plot in 10cm. I found this out when calculating the wire size for a 10cm battery interconnect and the calculators gave wildly different answers (4mm2 to 120mm2) for the same cable lenght.
Battery interconnect wires should be sized to match the ‘battery to lynx distributor’ wires to remove all doubt.
I do understand the need for double the distance between devices in the calculator but what if I'm calculating gauge for dc-dc charger and I will use chassis groud? Distance between starter battery and second battery will be at max 10ft. I will be using Renogy DCC30S where they say to use 45-60A input (from alt.) fuse. In this exaple should I aslo double the distance for the positive wire gauge calculation?
This may take a more in-depth look at your personal setup. If you have purchased/are purchasing from our store (shop.explorist.life) reach out for some more personalized help: shop.explorist.life/support
If you've purchased/are purchasing elsewhere, reach out to your dealer for support. We'd love to have you as a shop.explorist.life customer so we can provide a bit more help in the future. 🙂
I know I'm adding to the complexity, but I have a 4-fuse BlueSea fuse block for some of my "remote" smaller lighting connections, and for fused connections (those branching off the block) it says 16g is the smallest/minimum recommended wire. This is confusing since so many LED light products use 18-22g wire. Any thoughts on how to best proceed and still have a central fuse block?
" to abandon the product in that application" - Hm I had a problem with some Victron MPPT 100/50. They are installed some distance from the batteries so due to low drop I wanted to use 35mm² - but this was to much for the MPPT. I crimped a short 10mm² at the end.
You started the quote too late. The first part was "*I would be prepared* to abandon the product in that application". In other words; I would consider it unless I had a good reason to not do so.
In that particular instance, though, I would do everyhting in my power to get the charge controller to the Lynx Distributor so that purposefully oversized wire would not be necessary.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yea right - but that electric compartment was full and 2 stories away 🤔
That comment was more for everybody reading through this comment section and I'd say that a system where the batteries are 2 stories away from the charge controller is an exception and not the norm and would fall outside of the standard decision making tree discussed int his video that most people are clicking on this video to watch for.
@@EXPLORISTlife Yes absolutely
😎
Hello,I would like to know where you bought your hat?
Your videos are great and I love watching them. Our products are very similar to your content. How can we cooperate with you?