Victoria's Mast - Episode 153 - Acorn to Arabella: Journey of a Wooden Boat
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 11 мар 2021
- The bronze floors are done! It's a great feeling complete them and be able to move on to even more tasks that get us closer to launch.
Steve keeps on with fitting the main's mast step, and Alix gets to work on figuring out the reuse of Victoria's spars. You may remember from previous videos, just a couple years into the project, that Steve and Alix purchased another Atkin-designed boat, Victoria. She was in rough shape and there wasn't any interest out there to restore her. It was most likely that she was going to get stripped of her parts, which would have been parceled out to the highest bidders before she got cut up-a practical-but-sad end to a beautiful and storied boat.
Instead, we brought her to Granby, MA, where we carefully dismantled her with intentions of reusing as much of her materials as possible as we build Arabella. Now comes one of the big moments in that process: her solid fir mast will likely become Arabella's mizzen (the aft, shorter mast) but first, Alix needs to strip its parts, make sure the material is sound, and then reshape it to the correct size.
We hope you enjoy this week's video. Thank you so much for following our journey and for your support.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Sign up for our email newsletter: eepurl.com/hn3Qyv
Acorn to Arabella is a boat building project taking place in Granby, Massachusetts. Steve and Alix started as amateur boat builders building their own 38' wooden boat in their backyard: designer William Atkin's Ingrid with a Stormy Petrel's gaff rig. These videos follow the journey from tree felling, to lumber milling, to lofting, to the lead keel pour and beyond-sharing details of the woodworking, carpentry, metal smithing, tool building, and tool maintenance that wooden boats command. This ultimate DIY project will continue well past launch, when they will travel and learn to cruise aboard the boat that they've built. Just kidding about all that, this channel is about a Siberian Laika named Akiva.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you are interested in supporting/helping here are a few ways:
Acorn to Arabella wishlist:
www.acorntoarabella.com/wishl...
Jamestown Distributors Referral
If you are going to shop at Jamestown Distributors, please consider using our Total Boat referral code: totalboat.refr.cc/steveandalix...
Recurring support via Patreon:
/ acorntoarabella
Original Soundtrack available at benfundis.bandcamp.com
FOLLOW US:
Patreon: / acorntoarabella
Instagram: / acorntoarabella
Facebook: / acorntoarabella
Website: www.acorntoarabella.com
Main mast appears to be Southern Yellow Pine. It is also known as “heart pine.” It is practically indestructible. Impregnated with its natural resins, it will still remain fresh after hundreds of years. Most of it comes from virgin growth timber where strength and durability matter. Before the coming of rolled steel it was used extensively to build the massive textile mills in the east. Unfortunately, it is all but extinct due to over harvesting. There are still resources available if one is willing to search for them. You guys are great. I’ve so much enjoyed watching the progress of Arabella since the beginning.
Yes! Used as the flooring for countless exposed porches.
Heart Pine is the interior sapwood of SYP. While #2SYP is can be had at your local lumberyard Heart Pine is difficult to find because it is only found in old-growth SYP. What is commercially available now is mostly reclaimed wood, Delta Millworks in Austin TX handles it on the regular.
@@matthewtimberlake599 The boys are very lucky to have saved the mahogany from Victoria circa 1925, you cant get that species any more, and the sapelle types are obscenely expensive.
@@johnjenkins8782 I built a house with a mahogany staircase once upon a time, it was silly expensive even back then, nowadays you'd have to be incredibly lucky for it to even be possible.
Goodwin Heart Pine, in Micanopy, Florida. George has plenty, and resources to find whatever may be necessary. Don’t tell him I sent you. Having said that, sharpen your skills and build a hollow one, Alix.
Happy Arabella day! It’s like Festivus without the food or airing of grievances.
Thats hilarious!
A Festivus for the rest of us.....
T Butero i miss festivus...
Hey guys. Love the show. You might want to be sure to allow for some alteration of the rake AFTER you have sailed the boat a bit. Rake is a critical adjustment in sorting out how the boat sails upwind and small changes can make a huge difference in how the boat tracks and how the helm reacts to changes in sail trim.
True story. Our friend Kit adjusted the rake of her rig by a little bit a couple years ago-decades after the boat was built and a few years after she'd been sailing her Bud McIntosh cutter. It made a big difference in the boat's handling.
I’m glad you’re on it. The partners (the exit opening for the mast through the deck) can remain constant but allowing the step to be movable is crucial. It’s shocking how a small movement at the butt can move the mast tip a tremendous amount. I’m sure Thad can advise on this. He’s a neighbor in Marblehead. Keep up the great work and have fun.
I enjoy the "time-away" extra hobby video portions!!! (that ski area looked gorgeous!!!)
Dude (it's serious when I say "Dude"), regarding the bronze floors and welding tight into the corners...picture all your weld lines as forces and they all point into the same corner. That corner will crack first. Drill the corner out, all the forces stop short and don't gang up in the corner...and crack the weld. I may not have the analogy right, but the result is the same. A hundred years ago, it was the first thing they taught us in college in strength of materials class. A lot of other people have commented about the same thing, but I haven't seen your reply to date. They're not wrong. Love the show, keep up the good work.
We're not done yet, Michael-these details will be dealt with for sure.
Man there is a ton of frames in this boat!! She ought to be 1 hell of a strong boat !
Frames perform two functions: yes, they're structural, but they're also a surface for fastening planks. Most boats could have fewer frames, structurally speaking, if it weren't for that second function.
Very beautifull project from cutting trees to building a boat from those. I'v been watching all episodes with great pleasure. Smal tip for scraping of old varnish from mast and spars: use a piece of broken glas with a small curve to it or, even better, use a high quality (sandvic)paintscraper and a hot air gun. At the right setting and distance from the wood you will melt and soften the old paint/varnish and not burn the wood. It is possible to remove old layers of paint/varnish easily and quickly that way. Greatings from the Netherlands, Bas
Having stripped a couple masts a while back, that had years of slush on them, we found that a paint scraper worked the best, certainly faster than sanding and gumming up the sanding disks.
Agreed! Lou would definitely have-at-it with a shahp paihnt scrapah.
I get a lot of pleasure from these videos gentlemen, thank you.
I can't believe how these videos can mess with your sense of time. It feels like they are only ten minutes long. And they end so fast. I am so hooked on my Friday mornings with you all and enjoying a hot cup of coffee. It truly is my favorite day of the week. Well unless I am kayaking and any day on the water trump's most all other things. Except Acorn to Arabella. I will have my time watching you build then we pack up and hit the water. Priorities right? I'm glad you got a weekend of skiing and friendship. It's nice having time to enjoy a bit of other interests. I can't wait for next week.
True that; start watching and it seems like five minutes later you're done.
akiva looking on like "whens my boat going to be done?" lol
I got sad when I realized Akiva looks real old all of a sudden. Maybe he's just dirty and needs a good wash to freshen up ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
@@marshallc6215 Well, you know how those "dog years" work....
You are both MASTERS of attention to detail, and extensive planning and thinking ahead - and I am 100% confident that the mast step design is no different that every other aspect of this incredible build - You have covered off your logic on not placing the mast step on the keel, making perfect sense. Before you move on to other parts of your build, can you take a moment to walk through the forces you see on the mounting of the Mast Step, Having all of this weight, and shifting lateral forces and energy applied to 4 inset bronze on wood "knife edges" is counterintuitive to me. I AM NOT suggesting it is a bad design, just need to understand how you see it not being affected by the endless forces that it will endure in Arabella's life time.
Everytime I see this channel I hope that this project comes to completion.
Oh so YOU'RE the little voice in our heads! :) Thanks so much for watching. It's definitely going to come to completion, and then we'll continue by taking you along sailing via videos.
Excellent open Ben. Perfect length. The segment was a very quick at 21:43. The sign of a well told story. There was a lot going on too.
Good day, acorns. Another comforting and intriguing video!
I love Friday morning!
I love friday evening!
@@chatlydeguit4873 Yeah me too, A2A is a nice way to unwind from a week. But also Kipp I get the morning comment too. Depends on where you are.
Amazing, all sealed up with peanutbutter :P
If what it does to the top of my mouth is any indication, that contact point should hold for a 100 years...
Thank you guys for the great videos
I had an engine sitting in plastic in my garage for several months before I installed it in my woodshop. It dropped oil pressure within 2 minutes of starting. Dirt in the oil. Don't make the same mistake I did. Do an oil change within 30 seconds of letting the motor run. Better yet, get an oil accumulator in case of low or lost oil pressure, and it primes the engine before every start up.
How did the dirt get in it?
@@chrisv4640 Good question. It was in a sealed bag, inside a plastic container made for the engine.
@@tonkatoytruck It was probably there when you bought the engine.
@@netpackrat I would like to think so. But, I will always wonder. I do a lot of wood working.
Coming along nicely, brothers!!!
I know it's too late, but just mentioning this so you can prepare for it: That mast step design is very unstable. When the mast is rigged, and in use, that step will chew itself through those floor verticals loosening the mast rigging in the process. Best way vould have been fitting the step directly to the keel, when the keel was made. It can still be somewhat salvaged by welding horizontal plates with another vertical to those floors, where that step would then be bolted on. 2" wide plate doesn't go nearly as fast through that wood, than 1/2" edge will. Easiest way to bolt the step onto the plates: weld nuts on the underside matcing predetermined holes. Insert pieces of thread with sharp point onto each nut, and drop the pre-cut step on top. Now you have matcing marks for each hole, drill the holes, counter sink to level, and screw bolts in with a hefty dose of preferred slugde to fasten the step.
I agree. He went to all that trouble to cut a huge piece of wood for a stable platform and then rests it on four half inch strips. Not the best way to spread the load over a large area. (mechanical engineer) P.S. My boss told me a long time ago, "dont bring me a problem without a possible solution." So here it goes. Just mount a bronze plate beneath it, or at least under the notches. Weld long bolts to the plate from under neath, drill the appropriate holes in the wood block, slide it over, bolt it down. Done.
Fully agree and additionally the quality of that wood... cracks etc... Really just take a bite of the sour apple and redesign the mast step. I would be surprised if the current design survive the maiden voyage ... no joking...
@@tonkatoytruck Indeed. Axe and a saw blade don't have to be sharp, they just need time and softening the material by moisture and chemical reaction.
I wasn't sure what they were doing mounting the step block on edge to the floors but I agree with you. The step wouldn't last very long. even if it were made from Lignum vitae
Agree 100%. Additionally, his previously-stated decision to not protect the step from water ingress is also going to lead to major problems once the mast boot begins to fail and leak.
Spring is upon us. It is staying light out longer and Spring-forward is close for the clock too. Love the progress. I can't wait to see what you guys do with the bulkheads. See you guys next week. Stay safe and healthy, guys and gals. Peace, love and harmony.
I wonder what Akiva thinks is going on... from his perspective this is like a life-long project.
"this is going to be the most awesome doghouse ever!"
Love following your progress,look forward to next weeks episode great work guys...
Very inspiring. It is spring time and a lot to do.
I admire you dedication and patience.
My Friday highlight ...
Love these videos so much.
Dear Arabellas acorns. ;-)
👍👌👏 Very well done again and as always. I absolutely love to see all the used stuff from Victoria that will be going onto/into Arabella. V. was a really rotten lady but nonetheless a great donor boat. Maaaan, you all have a lot of energy = going for an exhausting skiing/hiking/camping trip for recreation. For me recreation from work mostly means being on/in my bed and watching Utube vids. ;-)
Thanks a lot for making teaching explaining recording editing uploading and sharing.
Best regards luck and health to all of you.
2 mins in and suddenly I have a craving for a crunchy peanut butter sandwich..........
Or some Satay with peanut sauce!
Wish your videos were longer..... Looking real good with fantastic progress ...
Well done guys -the project and video showing of it are getting more professional all the time. Good on ya
Birdsmouth mast: router bits are now available to make the notch, in case you haven't seen them That way you can make the strips on one pass on a router table, rather than two passes on a table saw, and the cut should be more accurate. FWIW.
Loving the soundtrack guys!
Beautiful video. Great photography and editing.
Thanks for another great vid on the progress of what’s going to be a beautiful boat.
From Missouri
Thanks, Jack!
Great video again, thanks and have a nice weekend!
About 10 years ago I made a small birds mouth mast from VG Fir that was 13' long. I modified my wood lathe to turn it. Beautiful clearcoat finish. Fun project. I enjoy watching your videos and weekly progress. Seems like it is going slow but it won't be long it will be in the water.
That's little for a hollow spar, and sounds like a lot of fun.
My favorite part about Friday's. Keep it up yall!!
Excellent stuff
You guys are the highlight of my week
Shucks, Roger. Thanks!
Another Milestone ! excellent !
Mint as always.
Best morning of the week.
Nope. Mondays are..Odd life crafting.
I know it’s a boat building channel and I’ve been with you guys from the very beginning. Seeing the snowshoeing/skiing was fun, but I was also looking forward to seeing some of the winter camping/campsite set up and usage. I think that would’ve been very educational. 😉
watching Steve and Alex bolt those floors in all I could think about was Impact driver, Impact driver
it may be the impact forces do not work well for the longevity of the brass threads?
One thing to consider is to beef up the mizzen hardware to give you the option of flying mizzen staysails which can be quite helpful in rough weather.
"Decided to snowshoe in cos the snow is a little crusty" *looking at snow better than I have xcountry skiid on in my life* :P
Great video.
Customizing a card scraper by cutting a curve in it with a radius slt larger than the mast makes it work better
For a 4 inch in 10 foot mast rake in the main mast, the aft end of the step should be about 5/16 inch lower per 10 inches on the aft end of the step. The center of the mortise should be 1 to 2 inches forward of the center of the deck penetration. Wooden mast do not always have a constant cross-section from the deck to the top. The mast head will be smaller than the deck diameter. The mast head needs provision for a mast head light.
That wasn’t skiing, that was bodily torture! Cross country is brutal for this old Colorado downhill skier.... you guys are all in great shape, physically, so that might make it fun?!?! 😜⛷🧗🏻♂️⛺️
Cross country is a lot nicer on my back than downhill. Done both, was really a pretty good downhill or super G skier before I broke my back (I still walk, really lucked out). But falling while downhill skiing will put me down for the day.
Great update thanq
Gday guys,,
Another great episode ,as always .
Understandably,, some very interesting comments on fitting the mast .
Best wishes guys .
Much Respect
from
Down Under
Just a thought regarding the mast. Often a mast is not 100% rigid in its step. At times you may want to increase the rake or lessen it. The ability to do this with running back stays and adjustable fore stays is not uncommon. A slightly rounded bottom of the mast and matching base in the step would allow slight movement as well as constant pressure across the base of the mast. Lastly, this ability to move slightly would lessen the overall stress on the boat. Again, it all depends on what the designer had in mind.
In a way, yes, the mast isn't 100% rigid, in that it isn't fastened into its step. However, we'd want the mast to be set in its step without a chance of movement while under way, and the rake can be adjusted later, so we'd change the shape of the meeting of the mast and mast step and partner if we find there's significant handling issues that can't be corrected by balancing the rig or other telltale signs that it needs to be adjusted.
At this point I hope you have addressed the need for fire suppression or a lot of extinguishers. Also training with the local fire department. The nightmare would be a fire. Please take great care. Even static electricity could be an issue with saw dust and solvents. FYI: you captured my attention when you cast the lead. I have been watching ever since. I eagerly await its launch.
Thanks for your thoughtful comment and for your concern. We've got extinguishers that aren't necessarily in the shots, and on top of that, we're fundraising for some new ones so we have even more around and about. www.acorntoarabella.com/acorn-to-arabella-safety-wishlist
Thought....make a socket to go onto the bottom of mast in bronze that will fit the way you want and then you can tie it to the step and bolt it to the mast itself.
When I did the spars on the S/V Elissa (17 wood spars in all) back in the early 80s, I made a tool that was of immeasurable use (sorry in advance for what you'll see is a bad pun). It was two 90 degree squares each of which had a sliding dovetail cut into one leg of each (I made them both out of teak). That allowed me to slide them together and then I had a U shaped measuring tool that could be adjusted to whatever dimension I needed. Then I could use it to find a center point on the top of a spar or just find out whether I had taken the spar down to the proper dimension. I could also put a level on the top of it to make sure that the marks that I made were consistent. This was really helpful because most of our spars had been roughly dimensioned on a large lathe, but still required significant dimensioning. I also had marked dimensions on the top edge of the squares. Hope this might help you guys.
Steve/Alex - As I look at that mast step Steve is posing behind as if it was a lion he just shot it made me wonder what your favourite, most challenging 'constructed piece' was that you've made. the knees were amazing and so was a lot that went into the bow. Not to mention where the mast hole will be drilled through. It's like many reliant and interdependent wooden and bronze sculptures held together by a boat.
The Dog looked thrilled lol!
Whoop whoop it’s Friday 🙌🏻
A paint scraper ( long handle.) that is edge sharpened works really well, I used it for scrapping cabinet doors after glue up. It produces fine shavings easily and very fast.
Just googled birds mouth mast and it looks very complex to get the joints and taper right. Looking forward to Alix explaining his measuring, cutting, sanding etc process for this.
Snap-on 1/2" drive ratchet. Very classy!
Have you thought about cutting the mast step mortise longer than necessary in order to allow for some adjustment in mast rake? Rake can then be adjusted with wedges as required.
Perfect thanks
i like how "set up the spar bench" means BUILD it
It never ceases to amaze me how many people use an adjustable spanner the wrong way, the spanner has a fixed jaw set at an angle for a reason, use it, other than that get the right size spanner.
Made my day!
Nice work fellas! That’s going to be cool if you can use some of Victoria’s mast and hardware
Thanks for adding the newsletter, and thank you for keeping a consistent release schedule. It's always part of my Friday routine, Start the A2A video, start the coffee maker, empty the dishwasher, pour the coffee, finish the video, walk the puppy. I'm "subscribed" and I've "rung the bell" for notifications, but I haven't seen a notification for an A2A video, or any other channel in weeks. I wonder why RUclips is cutting the legs out from under some of the most instructive creators out there?
Anyway, nice to see a bit of footage of the ski trip. I assume this is a taste of things to come once Arabella is in the water and putting in to remote ports around the world.
Cheers,
In 40 years I've stripped maybe a dozen houses down to the bear and I did it with a handheld torch propane torch removing paint with heat is amazingly effective and I don't think it makes as much pollutants as does sanding as long as you stay away from the fumes and that's easily done with just standing down wind or a small fan will blow it out of your way but if you have a lot of pain to strip it's amazing how effective and quickly well seemingly quickly burning does once you get it all bubbled up and scraped off it's a matter of just a light sanding
Here we go!
Spring is coming! Longer days.... more daylight!
It's been great!
Warmer temperatures!
I've found the best way to scrape varnish off is to use a heat gun and a paint scraper. Once the varnish is hot enough it comes off with very little effort.
Good morning from southwest Florida
She's looking good guys
I am still puzzled as to why you elected to transfer the mast loads through the bronze floors rather than directly to the keel . If those welds fatigue the step is going to move on you, The floors are a wedge that will force the hull planking outward if the floor yields, and the floor design is essentially an unstable column in vertical loading. Strongly suggest you get an engineering opinion. I am a mechanical engineer, but haven't practiced in the field for many years, but my training instincts tell me that your design needs a professional eye cast upon it. Love your work and eagerly look forward to each week's episode.
The idea is the hull is what provides the upwards force on the floor and the keel timber and keel pull the the floors down. By haveing the weight of the mast on the top of the floors they are reducing stress around the bolts in the keel timber.
@@Ethan-3369 The columnar strength of the floor web and the fatigue cracking resistance of the welds might be of more concern.....just saying.
@@geoffreystearns1690 i can see the fatigue possibly being an issue on any of the floors and some extra reinforcement for fore and aft movements probably warranted.
@@Ethan-3369 by mounting the step on the bronze floor frame cross pieces they are actually increasing the forces acting upon those 4 floor frames and the oak frames they are attached to. Atkin (and others like S&S) stepped the mast into the keel (the strongest structure of the entire vessel) so it can act as a beam shelf and transfer the mast forces to the frames along the entire length of the keel thereby spreading the load more equally among the 40 or so frames in the vessel. This modification will fail...no question.
Another change of typeface for the intro - much better than the recent previous one!
👍👍👍 toujours au top du top 😎😎😎
Nothing like breaking trail in a heavy crust😂
The new intro is pretty cool
Interesting point Oikku Oek makes regarding the mast step
Hey guys...I have been following you since episode #1 and I love what you are doing. That said, I have to strongly urge you to rethink how you are attaching the mast step to the vessel. I flipped episode #151 to the shipwright at the Marina where I keep my 3 wooden vessels. After watching he and I were both in agreement that fixing the step to the 4 welded cross pieces of the floor frames is doomed to fail. If designers like Atkin or S&S had found a better way they would have changed their designs long ago - modern deck stepped masts only came about because of changes in hull construction such as F/G.
I loved cross country skiing, sleeping in tents in the middle of nowhere
Looks like they made a very big step this week....
WE SEE WHAT YOU DID THERE. hahaha
hi nice work guys
product called cirrus strip not citrus, water based non toxic,washed away with water Great for stripping anything clean. no odor no hazardous chems. Broken glass makes good scraper cuts through heavy old varnish but you wont need it if you use cirrus strip just a hose.
There are many versions. There are, in fact, products under the "Citri-strip", "Citristrip", and "Citrus Strip" labels.
Just because you don't get it where you live, doesn't mean it doesn't exist.
@@mysterymete what are you on about.?
The new camera angles are great! You figure out how to sail that thing to NW Montana, and I'll take you to some EPIC backcountry touring!
Your VLOGs seem to be evolving for the better. Alix looks to be more involved with the project also.
keep up the good work guys. Be careful of lead paint on post.
Sure hope that Victoria’s mast is reusable. Would be a shame not to reuse that history piece. Great video,
My vote is for a Bird's beak mast, would be great to see.
Yay!
It's a happy day when you guys put up another video.
Hope the bearing surface area of the mast step block is sufficient to over come any crushing limit. Back Locust is pretty dense stuff (70.3 MPa crush strength) but I keep looking at the grooves like they are cuts in a bar of butter. How big is the sail area of the main sail? Maybe consider blocking from the bottom of the mast block to carry the load down to the keel? Or put a 1" wide bronze plate between the mast base and the floor plate? A key hole router bit on the two inner most cuts with a bronze bar inserted? Couldn't hurt and wouldn't impede water flow. Just wondering if this might be an issue, i.e. not enough bearing surface between block and floor members.
Friyay! I know it's not a race to the finish but since you're working on the mast floors any proposed date on stepping the mast?
Rather than cut a mortise into the mast step to receive the end of the mast, why not bolt on a bronze cup to receive the end of the mast? This would prevent water from collecting in the mortise, which would promote rot. It would also make fine adjustment of the location of the bottom end of the mast relative to the through deck penetration to ensure that you get proper rake fore to aft, and that the mast is straight and centered side to side. Once you get everything adjusted properly, you can then mark, drill and bolt down the mast cup with dolphinite under it (and maybe in the cup too to prevent mast end rot). This would also allow for the final adjustment to be done with the boat floating on her lines so that you can get the mast rake proper when she is floating. Getting the rake accurate while she is on the hard would be near impossible. Fair winds!
The mast will be adjustable at the through deck with shims, called mast wedges and the shrouds, the bronze piece sounds expensive... there should not be any water getting past the mast boot at deck level.
@@danoyes1 every mast boot I have ever known has leaked sooner or later...usually sooner. On a boat, water tends to find a way in despite our best efforts. Just remember, leaks below the water line are fine, above the water line, not so good. That is where all the damage is done.
You may want to rethink the mast step being supported by the floors or at least review it with a naval architect. The William Atkin had the mast step on the keel for a reason. You are looking at the step loading as only having load in a vertical if this were true then perhaps the having the mast step on top of the floors might be alright However and this is a big however. You also have very large loads in the horizontal plane most of these being shock loads as you bash through waves so instead of taking these loads along the whole length t of thee keel you will be concenttating it on four floors which will take the load unevenly. The floors are not designed for this. And even if they were I have not seen the welds on one floor get probably tested not even the basic of dye penetrant testing. In the case of a wooden boat mast step failure quite often it leads to sinking it's often what one calls an unrecoverable accident. Don't second guess the architect he spent his life learning how to build boats.
Spot on matey!
I'm a fan of Friday mornings too.
#a2acoffeeclub
Good morning!
An you indicate what absorbs the mast step download? The mast step is notched for the floor braces, but the top of floor braces tops cant be the sole absorber and it looks like the its bolt heads are in the way...thx!
Should've done a whole video on the ski trip. It would have been excellent.
More adventure to come! Thanks for the feedback!
I am still wondering if you are concerned at all about welding the floors and installing them without stress relieving them.
I was wondering the same.