One thing to remember if you’re having this problem is to make sure your ground wire isn’t corroded and the connection is scraped all the way to bare metal. I thought mine was okay on the truck I bought because I saw someone had already ran big ground wires everywhere but when i removed the main one going to the block I noticed it was full of corrosion and the paint wasn’t even scraped off. Seems to have fixed the problem now.
I have a 03 Tahoe 5.3 I have done the throttle body and the map sensor just still goes in to power reduce mode but goes back to normal when I take the negative wires off the negative post help
Won't adding that ground create a loop? If you added the extra ground, I would think that you have to remove the old one. The grounding strip. I'm no mechanic, but read something like that. If there's a mechanic reading this please let us know what are your thoughts on the grounding loop.
The more grounds you have will help / give you a better connection and if I'm not mistaken, my truck has 8 total factory grounds. Running car audio professionally I learned this. Also, I have $1300 alone just in batteries in this vehicle, so my connection is different than your average person and why I use larger wiring.
03 suburban having same issue p1518 reduced engine I have a code reader I clear the code throttle seems to go up and back to normal it only happens when it's cold
Update it's doing it again. p1518, it's getting cold here again in the summer. No problems. I have a scanner. I have to clear the code I'm going to check that ground now
Replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
@infamous9303 Fuel Injection Throttle Control Actuator Module -- New; ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL (KUP); DRIVER SIDE OF BULKHEAD It was this part that was causing the issue
Mine doing the same thing. And it’s the same year but it’s z71. I’ve fixed the water pump thermostat and it’s saying faulty wiring so I’m waiting on it to arrive hopefully that’s it so I can get my baby back on the road
Can I have a link to it if you guys don't mind I'm not good at doing the wiring things but when I see this type of videos makes me wanna do it and see the difference
Replace the throttle housing. It's technically the piece on the side, but they don't sell it separately, so you have to buy the whole throttle housing. This fixed it, and now I don't have that issue.
Can I have a link or how to do it bro I'm not familiar with the wiring thing but I would like to do it if it makes a difference I have a Chevy Tahoe 2002
@chicagowarrior94 what's your Facebook or snapchat and I'll message you. Also I've been doing more repairs so I have found many other issues that videos don't cover but I got you the best I can especially since I've ran into just about every issue there is lol. I'll be posting a new video shortly about what I am dealing with now bc it is an issue that seems like so many things but isn't.
Hey bro ....I got the same issue I did this and road good for a week and damn it doing it again..smh..did yours come back again ???? Maybe I need to clean it again or better 🤷🏾♂️ Hit me let me know bro ...thanks Thomas 👌🏽
Replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
New videos coming soon of the issues i am dealing with now and after this repair was made. These issues not only took my vehichle completely off the road but cause me so much agrivation and stress because of it not being an easy task and giving the parts house, mechanics and sales the pleasure of throwing nothing but $ signs at me 😆 Still not completely done but getting there especially since shes moving down the road again and I've saved hundreds of dollars doing this myself 😊 one thing has turned into a list so stay tuned and hopefully these comments or what i post will help someone with these same issue.
It's the throttle housing that fixed mine. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but they don't sell them separately, so you have to buy the whole thing to fix the issue.
@gmillan5150 Yes, but they do not sell that sensor by itself, so you have to buy the whole throttle body and I belive its just 4 bolts that hold it on. No matter what do not mess with the plate on the throttle body bc it can easily become misaligned causing more issues. Let me know if this helps if not I will shoot some other things to you that may help.
@@gmillan5150 I would definitely check and possibly upgrade the grouds as well. There are several in the engine bay and under the vehicle. That also helped temporarily.
No y9u do not but if you want to do the big3 or big4 then yes you will. I compete in car audio, and with multiple batteries and high output alternators, my vehicle has a lot more going through it than your standard vehicle
Yes, it helps with the flow of your power, but I also run car audio competition, so I use more power, which requires larger wire. Big3 and big4 also help
@@SirCavemaninthewest haha. That's the same thing I was told when I asked the Facebook group called Tougefest what TougeFest was. Plus they told me to forget about it. I immediately joined!
Replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
Same here Abel I need answers i didn't get any codes for the fuel pump but I did notice that my gas stopped pumping at 3 qts of a tank so I'm thinking fuel pump or possible float issue
Most people I've talked to have the ground wire system checked I heard that causes issues I have a 04 try disconnecting the negative cable for a few seconds with one of the doors open and reconnect it. It worked for my 04 suburban
After replacing you, wiring you need to replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
What he is not telling you is, There is more than just that one ground, You have to go around the motor there are more, even one on back the engine passenger side right behind the intake manifold you cannot see. You did not work hard enough to find ALL the grounds to fix it, That is why it did not work. Remember this miracles dont happen on RUclips everyday when working on anything automotive.
@@mickeymouse3976 You're exactly right. I have a new to me nice '04, Z71, Burb and had to fix the wire you're talking about. The end of that black/white stripe wire had been replaced before but the cobble job didn't hold. I soldered enough wire to run it to that flat braided wire and that fixed many problems such as no crank, CEL, crazy door locks. There's grounds at the frame below drivers seat, frame- drivers side below core support, block- near motor mount, etc. Grounds must be clean and tight to complete the circuit especially with computers and micro switches. I am running redundant ground wires from grounds up to alternator bracket using 14 & 12 gage tin coated wire but it really isn't needed if original grounds are clean. Certainly don't need huge bulky wires.
@@jefffrayer8238the bigger the wire is the better connection and flow you will get 😊 OFC or pure copper is king. Also welding cable is the move if you have the money and don't forget the more grounds the better 😉
Us Chevy truck owners have our own fraternity 👍👍
Brotherhood for life
GMT 800 OUT THE TEXAS PLANT IS THE BEST!!!
One thing to remember if you’re having this problem is to make sure your ground wire isn’t corroded and the connection is scraped all the way to bare metal. I thought mine was okay on the truck I bought because I saw someone had already ran big ground wires everywhere but when i removed the main one going to the block I noticed it was full of corrosion and the paint wasn’t even scraped off. Seems to have fixed the problem now.
What made you decide to check out the ground and wire first over anything else?
I have a 03 Tahoe 5.3 I have done the throttle body and the map sensor just still goes in to power reduce mode but goes back to normal when I take the negative wires off the negative post help
It's called the BIG 3 upgrade it helps the grounds and power when adding a aftermarket sound system.
What is the big 3 upgrade? New ground cable and what else? I have 03 tahoe
There is a big3 and big4, but it's a simple do. I'll do a video for you if you can't find one. Let me know.
@@infamous9303I can’t find one lmk the big 3 and 4
Won't adding that ground create a loop? If you added the extra ground, I would think that you have to remove the old one. The grounding strip. I'm no mechanic, but read something like that. If there's a mechanic reading this please let us know what are your thoughts on the grounding loop.
The more grounds you have will help / give you a better connection and if I'm not mistaken, my truck has 8 total factory grounds. Running car audio professionally I learned this. Also, I have $1300 alone just in batteries in this vehicle, so my connection is different than your average person and why I use larger wiring.
Drivers side under the truck there are 2 grounds in the frame also
03 suburban having same issue p1518 reduced engine I have a code reader I clear the code throttle seems to go up and back to normal it only happens when it's cold
Did you figure it out? Mine only does it when it’s cold also usually in the mornings only. Let me know please
@Pbk306 it was the throttle body I got a jet performance no more issues
Update it's doing it again. p1518, it's getting cold here again in the summer. No problems. I have a scanner. I have to clear the code I'm going to check that ground now
Replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
@infamous9303 Fuel Injection Throttle Control Actuator Module -- New; ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL (KUP); DRIVER SIDE OF BULKHEAD
It was this part that was causing the issue
Mine doing the same thing. And it’s the same year but it’s z71. I’ve fixed the water pump thermostat and it’s saying faulty wiring so I’m waiting on it to arrive hopefully that’s it so I can get my baby back on the road
I’m having the same problem I have and 04 but not getting response from pedal
Can I have a link to it if you guys don't mind I'm not good at doing the wiring things but when I see this type of videos makes me wanna do it and see the difference
Replace the throttle housing. It's technically the piece on the side, but they don't sell it separately, so you have to buy the whole throttle housing. This fixed it, and now I don't have that issue.
Also there is a sensor for the pedal that can help with the pedal issue
How did you relearn the throttle body
Yes, you can. I used to think this about 1/0 (0 gauge) too, until I started running DD lmao, now it's double-runs of 2/0 in everything. Try it!
I'll give that a try I'm always looking for upgrade choices. Where is the best place to get some?
Can I have a link or how to do it bro I'm not familiar with the wiring thing but I would like to do it if it makes a difference I have a Chevy Tahoe 2002
I love some 2/0 welding cable myself.
@chicagowarrior94 what's your Facebook or snapchat and I'll message you. Also I've been doing more repairs so I have found many other issues that videos don't cover but I got you the best I can especially since I've ran into just about every issue there is lol. I'll be posting a new video shortly about what I am dealing with now bc it is an issue that seems like so many things but isn't.
Hey bro ....I got the same issue I did this and road good for a week and damn it doing it again..smh..did yours come back again ???? Maybe I need to clean it again or better 🤷🏾♂️
Hit me let me know bro ...thanks
Thomas 👌🏽
My 09 Tahoe doing this but I'm not getting any codes , that's what so confusing 😢😢😢😢
Did you ever figure it out? If so, let me know I’m having the same issue.
I have an 02 tahoe and did this but it turned put to be the module that runs the throttle body. Its located by the brake booster with to connectors
Replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
The ground replacements also help
New videos coming soon of the issues i am dealing with now and after this repair was made. These issues not only took my vehichle completely off the road but cause me so much agrivation and stress because of it not being an easy task and giving the parts house, mechanics and sales the pleasure of throwing nothing but $ signs at me 😆 Still not completely done but getting there especially since shes moving down the road again and I've saved hundreds of dollars doing this myself 😊 one thing has turned into a list so stay tuned and hopefully these comments or what i post will help someone with these same issue.
What’s the fix?
I have a 2003 Tahoe Z71, that is losing power but does not turn off. Think it is maybe the same thing?
Mine goes into reduced engine powered after like 5 seconds of starting. What was your issue? I've done TB and sensor at pedal.
It's the throttle housing that fixed mine. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but they don't sell them separately, so you have to buy the whole thing to fix the issue.
@@infamous9303 done that, and the pedal sensor. You're referring to the sensor on the side of throttle body right?
@gmillan5150 Yes, but they do not sell that sensor by itself, so you have to buy the whole throttle body and I belive its just 4 bolts that hold it on. No matter what do not mess with the plate on the throttle body bc it can easily become misaligned causing more issues.
Let me know if this helps if not I will shoot some other things to you that may help.
@@gmillan5150 I would definitely check and possibly upgrade the grouds as well. There are several in the engine bay and under the vehicle. That also helped temporarily.
I see u put a 0 gauge on da alternator do you have to do that
No y9u do not but if you want to do the big3 or big4 then yes you will. I compete in car audio, and with multiple batteries and high output alternators, my vehicle has a lot more going through it than your standard vehicle
Adding larger wire especially copper will also help with your electrical
Why were you adding that zero gauge wire? For an extra ground?
I was told the upgrade helps with current flow because it's a thicker gauge wire
Yes, it helps with the flow of your power, but I also run car audio competition, so I use more power, which requires larger wire.
Big3 and big4 also help
I replaced the throttle body with aftermarket and it is still REP after a few minutes on start up!! I think 🤔 that TB may be bad
I'm going through it so bad rn bro 😂
Having this same issue rn on my 03 tahoe 400,000 miles replaced throttle body and a week later I got a knock sensor code with rep
Link for the copper wire ??
What did you clean your wire with
don't fcking worry about it🤣🤣🤣
@@SirCavemaninthewest haha. That's the same thing I was told when I asked the Facebook group called Tougefest what TougeFest was. Plus they told me to forget about it. I immediately joined!
Wire brush elbow grease. The tools are in the video
I only got code p1516, anything it could just be a faulty wire or bad ground?
I would definitely start there because something simple like that can cause a lot of issues.
Replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
Mines turns on when i turn the ac on?
That's a new one.
Please drop an update if you find any more information on this issue.
I'll see what I can find out for you on my end.
I’ve done this changed the throttle body and everything and it’s still doing it . Any suggestions
Check your other grounds.
After many videos for repair, finally found what was wrong with mine, it was the fuel pump. It also gave me the stability track code.
Same here Abel I need answers i didn't get any codes for the fuel pump but I did notice that my gas stopped pumping at 3 qts of a tank so I'm thinking fuel pump or possible float issue
Most people I've talked to have the ground wire system checked I heard that causes issues I have a 04 try disconnecting the negative cable for a few seconds with one of the doors open and reconnect it. It worked for my 04 suburban
Same here...smh .I'm bout to bury this damn truck...I'm going broke dumping parts into it...
You need to add oil
You maybe right how you find out???
😂😂😂
After replacing you, wiring you need to replace the throttle. It's technically the piece on the side of the throttle, but since they don't sell them separately, you have to buy a whole new throttle housing. This fixed my issue.
Low oil does not cause this issue lol but it can cause symptoms to make you think it is 😊
I got the two wires fro Autozone for less then $10
What do I tell them to get it?
@@عبَبدالله-ق9خ "Where is the wire section?"
Lol not the wire I am running you didn't.
That is what a foot of my wire runs cost wise 😂
If you want to run small cheap wire Amazon sells spools for the low 😅
2/0
1/0 pure copper wire
Shit don’t work
What he is not telling you is, There is more than just that one ground, You have to go around the motor there are more, even one on back the engine passenger side right behind the intake manifold you cannot see. You did not work hard enough to find ALL the grounds to fix it, That is why it did not work. Remember this miracles dont happen on RUclips everyday when working on anything automotive.
@@mickeymouse3976 You're exactly right. I have a new to me nice '04, Z71, Burb and had to fix the wire you're talking about. The end of that black/white stripe wire had been replaced before but the cobble job didn't hold. I soldered enough wire to run it to that flat braided wire and that fixed many problems such as no crank, CEL, crazy door locks. There's grounds at the frame below drivers seat, frame- drivers side below core support, block- near motor mount, etc. Grounds must be clean and tight to complete the circuit especially with computers and micro switches. I am running redundant ground wires from grounds up to alternator bracket using 14 & 12 gage tin coated wire but it really isn't needed if original grounds are clean. Certainly don't need huge bulky wires.
@@jefffrayer8238the bigger the wire is the better connection and flow you will get 😊 OFC or pure copper is king. Also welding cable is the move if you have the money and don't forget the more grounds the better 😉
@@mickeymouse3976appreciate that break down.