I have the same problem with small screws like that. I have found the best tool for the job is a manual impact driver. When you hit the tool with a hammer, it puts a tremendous down-force and shock to the screw. Since it is generating down-force and shock, it won't strip the screw head. I have used this tool a lot and it works like magic on screw heads. Even on Carb bowl screws. The most common sold is the 3/8 or 1/2 inch. They do make a smaller 1/4 inch driver too for smaller stuff you work on.
From brief research finding that the issue with solder joints more common than not. Search online indicates not a lot available for aftermarket unit but did find one company and going to call them for more info google "Rostra" systems. I had been considering going for a 944 but these days need cruise and was thinking of only considering 944's w/factory cruise but if this issue is so prevalent seems like just going w/no factory cruise and installing aftermarket would be the ticket esp considering the potential of wider selection .
I would definitely look into the aftermarket cruise control and see how that works if I were you, the factory one seems primitive in it's functions lol
Hi. Nice video. I have a Mini R53 and the cruise control does not work. It does come on but it flashes and then disengages. Do you have a clue what it can be?
thanks, i've heard about a diode on the brake pedal switch and www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/166982-cruise-control-light-flashing.html
In the description you mention using a multimeter to check the system... this sounds easier than pulling the system out and looking for cracked connections. how obvious are these cracked connections? Will I immediately know when I see one?... or 30? I am getting ready to give it a go on mine and was looking for where to start.... I am assuming that the computer would be the FIRST stop, Servo second? thanks!! great video.
The cracks might not be obvious, mine weren't. The first time I checked my cruise computer, I thought everything was fine and put it back in. I couldn't find ANYTHING else wrong with the servo or cables, so I just went ahead and removed the computer again and resoldered every connection that were big enough for me to solder without damaging other parts, and then the cruise started working. I"m still having a problem where the cruise will actually stick on and won't go off when I press the brake....not sure if I missed a connection or something, but it's pretty dangerous and scary when the cruise doesn't turn off at 80mph and you really need it to....luckily I can press the clutch or use the brakes to overpower the engine, etc.
btw- nice vid. had read about the joints previous to seeing your vid and it does alleviate a major issue concerning diy repair -- as in where is the computer and relatively easy access.
Reassembly is much easier if you put ALL the removed pieces back in order into the Main Case. You do not have to try to hold pieces in place and fanagle the case cover on. # Put the spring back in place on the 1/4 white plastic gear (with its electric wiper pair facing down) using needle nose pliers first try, takes 3 seconds. Then put the metal axle (this axle acuates the throttle cable) for that same gear back in place, the gear will center up and get happy. Never force anything on a Porsche. You will see that it fits only one way that makes any sense at all. Then fit the large white plastic gear, large splines downward, onto the small protruding metal shaft (the shaft is fixed into the main case, it is not removable - don't bend it.) There is no special rotational orientation for this large white double gear. At this point the gears and parts are all inside the case and stable, waiting for the cover. Make sure the rubber gasket on the case cover is clean, you can wipe it with a small piece of lint-free shop towel wetted with silcone spray. Clean the mating gasket surface, wipe off excess silicone spray (Do Not get silcione spray on the electrical wiper surfaces - if you do, you can clean the wiper surface with a Q-tip moistened with contact cleaner. Finally, carefully fit the cover onto the case, it should snug into place with gentle hand pressure. Gradually tighten the 4 case screws each one a little at a time (Porsche mechanics use a criss-cross pattern). Done.
Thanks for a great tip. I resoldered every joint on mine. It worked the first time I put the board back in the car. Amazing! Thanks so much.
great job on the video - I pulled my servo apart and put it back together wrong - your vid was a big help - thank you so much!
Do you know if this is the same as the Cruise Control in a 968?
I have the same problem with small screws like that. I have found the best tool for the job is a manual impact driver. When you hit the tool with a hammer, it puts a tremendous down-force and shock to the screw. Since it is generating down-force and shock, it won't strip the screw head. I have used this tool a lot and it works like magic on screw heads. Even on Carb bowl screws. The most common sold is the 3/8 or 1/2 inch. They do make a smaller 1/4 inch driver too for smaller stuff you work on.
From brief research finding that the issue with solder joints more common than not. Search online indicates not a lot available for aftermarket unit but did find one company and going to call them for more info google "Rostra" systems. I had been considering going for a 944 but these days need cruise and was thinking of only considering 944's w/factory cruise but if this issue is so prevalent seems like just going w/no factory cruise and installing aftermarket would be the ticket esp considering the potential of wider selection .
I would definitely look into the aftermarket cruise control and see how that works if I were you, the factory one seems primitive in it's functions lol
Way to go. My cruise control is making a clicking sound. I'll check it.
Amazing! is there any light coming up on the dashboard when the cc is on? or to test it you just need to drive the car? thanks!
cruise control will not turn on until you hit 25 mph
Hi. Nice video. I have a Mini R53 and the cruise control does not work. It does come on but it flashes and then disengages. Do you have a clue what it can be?
thanks, i've heard about a diode on the brake pedal switch and www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/stock-problems-issues/166982-cruise-control-light-flashing.html
Thank You
In the description you mention using a multimeter to check the system... this sounds easier than pulling the system out and looking for cracked connections. how obvious are these cracked connections? Will I immediately know when I see one?... or 30? I am getting ready to give it a go on mine and was looking for where to start.... I am assuming that the computer would be the FIRST stop, Servo second? thanks!! great video.
The cracks might not be obvious, mine weren't. The first time I checked my cruise computer, I thought everything was fine and put it back in. I couldn't find ANYTHING else wrong with the servo or cables, so I just went ahead and removed the computer again and resoldered every connection that were big enough for me to solder without damaging other parts, and then the cruise started working. I"m still having a problem where the cruise will actually stick on and won't go off when I press the brake....not sure if I missed a connection or something, but it's pretty dangerous and scary when the cruise doesn't turn off at 80mph and you really need it to....luckily I can press the clutch or use the brakes to overpower the engine, etc.
btw- nice vid. had read about the joints previous to seeing your vid and it does alleviate a major issue concerning diy repair -- as in where is the computer and relatively easy access.
thank you!
good job
thanks!
nice vid kev/uk
thanks!
Reassembly is much easier if you put ALL the removed pieces back in order into the Main Case. You do not have to try to hold pieces in place and fanagle the case cover on. # Put the spring back in place on the 1/4 white plastic gear (with its electric wiper pair facing down) using needle nose pliers first try, takes 3 seconds. Then put the metal axle (this axle acuates the throttle cable) for that same gear back in place, the gear will center up and get happy. Never force anything on a Porsche. You will see that it fits only one way that makes any sense at all. Then fit the large white plastic gear, large splines downward, onto the small protruding metal shaft (the shaft is fixed into the main case, it is not removable - don't bend it.) There is no special rotational orientation for this large white double gear. At this point the gears and parts are all inside the case and stable, waiting for the cover. Make sure the rubber gasket on the case cover is clean, you can wipe it with a small piece of lint-free shop towel wetted with silcone spray. Clean the mating gasket surface, wipe off excess silicone spray (Do Not get silcione spray on the electrical wiper surfaces - if you do, you can clean the wiper surface with a Q-tip moistened with contact cleaner. Finally, carefully fit the cover onto the case, it should snug into place with gentle hand pressure. Gradually tighten the 4 case screws each one a little at a time (Porsche mechanics use a criss-cross pattern). Done.