HOW TO... GLASS!! Addressing the Misconceptions
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- Опубликовано: 12 окт 2020
- There is a lot of tips and tricks out there on what's right when engraving glass.. This is our stripped down version that focuses to remove the myths and complicating factor of engraving glass.
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I haven’t even bought a laser yet, just trying to learn more about it. So here I am with nothing to really reference it to, but this video helped me understand why I see people talk about their settings. So thank you!
I'm new at this also, and have found the same results in my testing, but I never thought of the wire wheel, I only used a scotch pad and dish soap to clean. Thank you for that tip.
Thanks for this video and the instructions for setting up your own power scale test. I've used a few different ones with mixed results. A few of the ones that I tried showed that cutting happened at pretty low levels and then when I tried to use those settings on an actual project, it didn't cut through. I'm going to build my own and see if I get different results.
This was extremely helpful. Thank you for this video!
Thank you Chris, very helpful
Thanks, great video and important info
Extremely helpful. Love it
i watched like 10 videos from others. you finally answered my question LOL. Thank you!
Did you apply anything to the glass surface pre-engraving ? such as eg: paper, laminates, dishwash liquids. Very professional video!!
Man glad I found your channel ...another great video. ....in the event not having a power rotary steel brush ...any other alternative? Thanks. a lot! ...ps how you did the colored engraved logo?!!
great video!! thank you for making it...am very new to Lasering...still deciding what laser to buy...which one did you use for this video?
Thanks... I never knew what max power / min power was for....I mainly do engraving on tumblers and coasters, which means a lot of curves. time to dial down my min power setting.
This is gold. Thanks! New follower.
I seen this done on another video and i like the idea so im trying it, not having good results though, some of the fractured glass cleans off like it should but some does not and if i use enough pressure to clean it off it scratches the glass...ive tried several settings including running a power scale.
Excellent Video. Should be getting my Makeblock xTool in a couple of weeks, been looking for this kind of info for weeks.
Great advice - thanks!
At the end of the video you show a glass etched with some red color in it. What do you use to get the colors?
I would really like a video on setting up the rotary for use. Do you have the top of the glass where the laser is touching it, level? Is the laser touching the glass at the same depth at all times? I ask because I would like to engrave glasses with names.
I've burned through enough pint glasses by now to find out that a wire brush is key. I've been using a wire brush manually to get exercise. I'm curious if increasing power allows the burrs and top layer to come off easier while brushing.
Would steel wool work as well as the wire brush?
Thanks for this video. I'm new to the laser world. I've followed your steps but it's saying over an hour to engrave this array? Is that right?
So are you not using any sort of stuff on the glass? Just lasering it direct with no soap?
You mentioned you use Palmolive is that some sort of train or detergent on the surface of the glass
how do you get it to be in colors? - paint it after you engraved? thanks
I have an 80w Aeon Mira 7. So, would you recommend Power of 50, instead of 100 for my machine?
Great Job Thanks
Do you have a test made already that you can share
Can you give us a link to the file you created for ramp testing? I appreciated the video it was very helpful!
The video shows how to make the file in a few easy steps. Our other video “LightBurn Power Scale” will help as well
Where is your rotary from?
How much do you defocus?
Younmention a forum? Where is the link to the forum for the file?
A serious word of caution is needed!
Use the grinding wheel under well-considered ventilation since much those fine glass particles will wind up in your lungs and do some serious, and permanent, damage because glass, of course, is not water soluble. The ventilation needs to be very good as the spinning wire wheel will throw the glass dust/shards towards the user with some speed that will have to be accounted for. If done safely, this is a great technique
Just so no one is left without any practical solution, there are numerous videos on the 'net showing how to make an inexpensive, tabletop "sandblasting cabinet" - which more accurately describes the equipment I'd recommend.. Simple but effective cabinets can be made out of commonly available plastic storage containers with little effort and minimal skill.
Or alternately, you could use a handheld wire brush under running water to contain the glass particles.
Why not just put on a FFP2 mask? I doubt those glass particles are smaller than viruses.
@@lunakoala5053 True. Also, I guess I should have noted my comment wasn't intended to rule out common sense... but, if glass grinding is done on a regular (hobby) basis, the wet dust settles far from the source and will eventually be lofted back into the air after it dries.
Can you burn off silver fume with a diode laser this has so much potential thanks for sharing
Great video! This is the first time I've heard about cleaning up micro fracture layer and can see that doing so leaves a cleaner and way better engraving. It seems that the engraving turns out a bit more transparent (less noticeable) though...any way to combat this (make more white)?
Focus closer to the glass. Like 2mm from it.
@@HouseOfLasers Ok, thanks! I'll have to give that a try! Assuming that's 2mm below focus height for material surface? Sorry, newbie here
How many pieces of glass can a laser pass through?
Where can you find the free files such as the power swatches for different materials mentioned in video
House of Lasers Facebook page
Hello I am new to glass engraving. I have a Mira 9 90w. I believe I have lightburn setup with the settings you show. Ready I do a test my glass is breaking. I have the laser at 10mm focus. Any help would be great.
Did you adjust for power scale. I never ran 100% and they quality and thickness matter.
I have fixed the problem with thin wine glass that will crack sometimes. I have solved the problem with a wet sponge or wet rag IN the glass. I the use a very fine sand paper 600 to 1000 grit. No more broken glasses.
Can you explain more?
@@Ovationdj Not realy. it is an easy way to keep the cool so it won t crak. Just leave a wet sponge or rag in the glass while you laser
What to do when the logo you use is oke in lightburn, but on the glass it strehted out?
Make sure your in rotary mode, make sure your steps per rotation are correct.
Couldn't you hit it with a scotch bright pad? that would clean it up but wouldn't heat up or get metal residue
You can use whatever you’d like. We find it quick and easy our way. But we also show a scotch bright pad like drill attachment. We’ve tried them and find our method better for us.
awesome to known I'll try a wheel next time I do glass work. Thanks for making the video! Your the best
so , what make it sharp ? I can’t figure out how to engrave without it
The micro fractures of the glass.. Try to focus closer to the glass.
@@HouseOfLasers thank you
@@HouseOfLasers you tried to use different lenses ? how its can help ?
there is a much better way and your way was just way more complicated, I seen a video using rust-oleum cold galvanizing compound spray and spray the cup then simply just burn it and if it is either to much or to little of a burn then lower it in the speed or increase it ....done, so many are not tech savy so all those settings you explain just make it worse for someone....plus i think the spray you would not have to worry as much for the micro fractures you talk about.
I've been trying to come up with a reasonable explanation for the flaking as well. You seem to have hit the nail on the head. Nothing you can do about it other than clean it off. It's too bad because the frosty look you get with it on really looks cool but it isn't going to stay.
Focus 2mm from the glass and that will give you a sand blasted result. The beam interacts a bit differently.. but all in all we are fracturing the glass and it is very hard to get rid of the flaking. Focusing in was the only way I found to work
you keep saying how NOT to do it.. what is correct?
And that would be the point. Like most engraving... Its preference . If you engrave a test file you have different colors, depths... what YOU like is your choice. Also different glass acts differently. So you need to actualy test and learn. I can tell you what works on my 130w Co2 or my 55 RF.. will that work for you? Likely not.... These are how to, suggestions and tips and tricks.. not holding hands.
Sorry can't watch same as usual to many ads .