At age 64, after several yeas of progression, I have worked up to weighted 50lb open-grip three fingers each hand grip for four reps. Could barely do one when I started. The key is patience+consistency
To avoid elbow pain on the narrow grip pullups, if your bar allows, do neutral grip pullups (palms face inwards towards each other). This is similar to a hammer curl and will target the brachi and long bicep head. They're my go to for brachi training and I've never had any elbow pain
It is really interesting to see the philosophy of different climbers on pull up training. People like Magnus Midtbo who can do pull ups with an insane amount of added weight and one arm pull up for days. However, recently I saw a video of Kai Harada, who said he basically never trained pulls ups and never really trained on a finger board until earlier this year when climbing gyms were closed. Just shows that there are many ways to achieve your goals and that dedication and passion are such important drivers. I like pull ups and use them regularly in my training, so I definetely loved this video! :)
Obviously it just depends on your own time/location limitations. Obviously if you're able to go actual climbing more often that would lead to the most specific type of training. However, most people don't have a gym within walking distance or have other time limitations so need to make up for that with other kinds of training.
Well said - there are MANY ways to the end goal. That's why it's very hard to say there are exercises that you MUST do or that certainly training tools are the ONLY way to achieve things... etc etc. Its a broad church!
@@MrTheHegemon “Obviously if you're able to go actual climbing more often that would lead to the most specific type of training.” but especially with climbing on real rock to me it seems like it doesn’t really target maximum strength and it’s mentally demanding. With pull-ups and other exercise you can really tune the load and target specific muscle groups.
Just what I need at the moment as I need to change my training regime up a bit and am looking to start single arm training. Nicely explained and demonstrated. Perfect length. Thanks.
Great advice! I've just got past 2 years of climbing and this video is right on time for some targeted training. So sick of not being able to do more than 5 dead hang pull ups yet I can lead in the 11s and 12s at my gym. This is exactly what I need to get past my current plateau. Thanks!!
It is such a genuine idea to bring a competitive climber with biceps that are bigger than my head and show us how how to train the intermediate level of climbers.
Hi Lattice crew, awesome video and super helpful! Would you recommend doing a few of/all of these exercises in one session with some days between pull up sessions or would you say do one exercise each day perhaps?
I've been doing calisthenics for a while now and these moves are a staple for me. I'm new to climbing and I've noticed this helps a lot when it comes to overhangs. However as soon as I climb vertical the strength feels useless without proper technique. It's safe to say this training won't make you an intermediate climber, but it's good training if you already are one. Awesome video guys.
Generally, the more overhanging a climb is, the bigger/better the holds need to be, which lets you utilize more of that raw pullup and core strength compared to vertically/slightly overhung that generally put more emphasis on finger strength imo.
Hello Lattice Training, i don't hear you meantion anything about pauses inbetween your sets, which is very important when you are training the strenght component, since you should be able to give in max effort in every set and repetition. Hope you will take this in mind, so the climbing community following you, will become even stronger!
Yup, strength training (and the rests associated with it) should mostly be informed by the ability to put in maximal (or close to) effort during each set. For some the rest may be 2 mins, others it may be 4 mins. Depends on training history!
This video shows you don't have to do 50 plus raps, if you have good technique. Training think is so important, twice as strong as opposed to just climb in the lot.. great video thank you.
Great video, thanks a lot :) Could you please suggest how to combine these exercises into one session resp/sets wise? I guess thou shalt not do all of them in a row...
Amazing info. Inspired, but not so sure if I have the elbows these days. So it's something to experiment with. Jen is brilliant. Good fun watching this one.
I used to get them. The key for me is a good warm up. I would do some dynamic stretches and couple of sets of curls with 10kg plate to get a little pump and get the blood flowing. If it really bad, just take couple of days of rest and use ice. Hope it helps :)
You can also do lock offs using rings or TRX. Something that’s suspended and allows for a bit of movement so elbows are under so much torsion. Fitness FAQs rings gives this advice to prevent elbow strains.
@@Ak74fr3ak Also try to reduce the intensity/set/reps/frequency until the problems go away. Take care of your tendons and let them heal! Also, try variations in form. Sometimes a small change in form makes all the difference. Biomechanics is complex. Specially in compound movements over several joints. Good luck.
I had a bout of tendonitis in both elbows when I first started adding weight to pull-ups, and I found that, like other commenters here, rest, warming up, and in my case high reps with the theraband twice a day to just really get the blood flowing did wonders! Curls, tricep extensions, etc. The tendonitis never came back.
Some pull-ups should also be done with the hands facing towards It allows for a different shoulder position, we need our shoulders to have full rotation for healthy elbows.
Great content! Detailed without waffling on and very clear demonstration of the exercises. Really appreciate having a suggested rep/set range. Subscribed!
Rest between sets is somewhat subjective, but you basically want to let your Central Nervous System rest, not the muscles. Usually 2-3 minutes between heavy sets is optimal, while lighter sets with higher reps might not fatigue your CNS as much as the muscles themselves, so a rest under 90 sec is okay even. As for how many of the exercises per workout, that depends on your training/workout frequency, because there are optimal #'s of sets per week on different muscles. Probably just 2 exercises, maybe 3 per workout if doing 3 sets of each, and if training like this twice a week
Basically, for an efficiant amounth of workout, you need something between 12 to 21 sets per week per body part. Lower than that you will not have enough volume per week to have significant muscle growth, more than that you'll likelly be overtraining. The amount you need really depends on a lot a factors : age, level of fitness, volume of climbing (if you climb really hard, your body will not sustain a crazy amount of workout). Some People can sustain a crazy amount of volume, some just need 12 sets and get jacked... You have to try ! Start with 12 sets a week per muscle (12 sets of back exercices for exemple, like 12 sets of pull ups) and "feel your body". If you need more, go for more, if you improve with that amount, don't overdo and wait until you really need more volume to increase that volume. Some variations stress out muscles differently, so it is possible to have more than 12 sets of "back exercises". For exemple, per week I do 3 sets of very heavy weighted pull ups, 4 sets of volume pull ups, 3 sets of heavy rowing, 3 sets of medium weight rowing (using a technic to concentrate on my lats) and 3 sets of "humble rows" (wich target back shoulders to compensate muscle imbalance). And now I'll add some isometric pull ups workout to build my one arm pull up. Adding to all of that training, I sometime do pull ups after a climbing session if I feel that I did not put too much stress on my muscles and nervous system (like a session where I mainly work technic or on my balance, feet... and no power moves)
This is a must! Here are some exercises I'm trying to incorporate; step ups, step downs, lunges, single leg deadlift, active pike compressions and some elevated glutes bridges.
Amazing video and really good tips! What's your opinion about doing pull ups on edges/campus rungs? I've been doing pull ups on a 25mm edge and my pulling strengh has improved a lot!
If you want to achive a full workout in a short time it’s quite fine, otherwise a more specific workout e.g. Max holding on small edges and max pulling on jugs or a bar usually is more effective
Great worckouts! I have been doing many weighted pullups for a wile but I haven´t tried any of the other variations. One question I have, and I hope I don´t repeat something asked too much on this chat. Can all these 5 listed exercises be done in one only training sesion? or is it beter to spread them along a few. And how many times per week would this be advisable?
Hi guys, Quick question about Exercise #3: Offset Pull Ups. As part of an 8 week macro-cycle plan, I trained offsets for a 3 week strength protocol. During the final week, I developed a twinge in my right tricep at the elbow. The pain only occurs during assistance: when the left arm is pulling up with the right arm assisting. I could still use my right arm for offset pull ups with my left assisting. From this I can infer that the pain comes from the pushing motion against the assist. I am using a climbing rope knotted off at 8-inch intervals. I enjoyed training this exercise as the progression is super easy to measure based on which knot you use for assistance. Since the pain in my tricep/elbow started I have shelved offsets and started training weighted pull ups instead. I wonder what your advice would be for resuming this training again? As part of the strength protocol, I was doing antagonist conditioning on rest days/opposing days to the pull up training. This included push ups to failure and also some push ups at an added weight. On reflection, this is actually a lot of loading to the triceps both on training days and rest days. I think this is what contributed to the tricep irritation as my elbow basically just wasn't getting properly rested.
Hey guys, great vid! Please can i ask you a question, how to combine those exercises during a week? Do you maybe recommend to choose two, three exercises and then change them after around two weeks? Mostly, i climb in a gym two-three times a week + one strength session at home. Tenx a lot!
I would suggest to keep it simple and keep it consistent. Don't make any changes sooner for at least 6 weeks (unless you really have to). Your general weekly plan looks good to me.
You are wrong if you think every human is supposed to be completely symmetrical and/or if you think that asymmetrical presentation can be used to predict injury
Not doing warmups seems to be the source of most injuries, maybe you should have done a warmup demo specifically for these exercises as you were talking.
I believe muscle ups also add's to the climbers strenght. I'm doing currently only calisthenics, for preparation to climb and I can see difference in power once I added muscle ups... what do you think about it?
First: Big Thx Lattice, i use your Workouts and it makes fun and i see a progress but i always strugle with Pull Up excersises. I can max do 8( when i am really fresh). I dont know how to train for it. I also found the basic exercises hard. is there a basic training idea to progress in this? ( like 3 times a week do Pull up training) And Look Off is the same. I can't hold 90° with 1 arm. ( with bodyweight) My climbing level is about 6C
You shouldn't do the max number of repetitions if doing several sets of 2-5r reps. If you can do a max of 5, do 4 or even 3 and more reps towards the final set, max on the final set or two maybe?
Would it make sense to integrate a couple "isometrics" toward the end of the warmup and then move on to something like weighted pullups? The idea being that one may get some of the tendon/muscle health benefits of the isometrics, but still have plenty in the tank to train power.
Would I make sense to do a combination of the the long duration isometric holds (density hangs) in a narrow grip position (exercise 5). As a way to build tendon density in the upper forearm? Aiming to combat those common golfers elbow niggles
In most cases we're doing pull ups to get strong at pulling, so use the grip that your are strongest with. This way you'll gain the best adaptations from the exercises. Leave specific grip work for the wall or hangboard.
For the majority of exercises once you are passing that ~10 rep range its mainly about endurance. Still helpful for climbing but you can definitely start adding weight once you can do 5+ I'd say.
It doesn't have a specific sport grade.... kind of impossible to say that. In the broadest terms, intermediate should take in both performance and training history (when it comes to training planning). Roughly you're look at the window of more than 1yr and less than 5yrs.
@@LatticeTraining thks for responding! ok so its more about training history. thank u for these videos they are verry motivating! Could u please do a video "from 8a to 9a" just like the "7a to 8a" that was realy good. keep up the amazing work!
Not trying to be snarky, but since you mentioned that you want specificity in your training, how exactly is the OAP or the progression to it specific to actual climbing? Tom has climbed V12/V13 and can't do a OAP, I know several people who climb 5.13 without being close to a OAP. It seems that just like high rep BW pull-ups, it's more of a party trick than a useful tool for climbing. Unless you want more one-arm strength to progress more on the campus-board, which is more obviously specific for climbing, but can't you just use bigger rungs to progress there? Genuinely curious.
Jumping on this, while one could say you can never have "enough" strength, keeping training sessions relevant to climbing progression (esp. when time and recovery time comes into play) is sometimes challenging. Genuinely curious too :)
I think the benefit of maximal training like that isn't necessarily that you'll encounter the need to use all of it on a given move. It's that when you do encounter a powerful move it will be a lower percentage of your max and therefore less taxing during the climb.
Regarding specificity: It also depends on the style of the climb you're training for. There are powerful but "uncomplicated" climbs where being able to do a OAP alone will almost get you to the top, and other very technical climbs where OAPs (or any power/strength) won't help you at all.
This is what I'm wondering as well. I think doing all would be way too much, maybe one or two depending on the intensity? Combine one concentric with one isometric/eccentric exercise?
Hey Tom - if you don’t mind me asking, do you happen to have a history of shoulder issues? There seems to be a slight disbalance, to be seen on the weighted 2 arm pull ups at the top of the ROM. Wonder if that might be an indication for going in with a slightly lower weight and worth a caveat to people on here? Good and safe form having to take precedence, I guess :-)
Yup, he's had shoulder injuries 20 yrs ago and has had a tight RHS shoulder for years and years. Good form is always a high priority, but in reality with elite athletes there is way more leniency on this. Is one of the things where we see people complaining that elite athletes will get injured by not using perfect form.... this is rarely the case. Elite athletes are generally very robust and will have the capacity to endure more than you think.
Just from personal experience, I'd avoid doing bar lock-offs. I trained one arm lock-offs for about half a year and ended up with a really nasty case of tendonitis in my elbows. I now train weighted pullups and assisted one arm pullups and find that keeping movement in the exercise massively reduces the strain on my elbows, while still carrying over to being able to lock-off when it's needed.
It will change the balance of your body in a wrong way. Away from your center of gravity. I would need to draw the vectors to explain it clearly, but it will drive your body backward and not downward like a dip-belt would do. Wich may lead to injuries. dip-belt is not that expensive and very usefull.
@@MrNews31 If you can do 5 reps, it's not your max load though. At 85% you're looking at something like sets of 5 reps, while 2 reps are basically where your max weight is.
Would pause pull-ups (or frenchies) be considered isometric exercises as well? The lock-off duration is shorter per position, let's say 3-5 seconds but you hit multiple angles per set. For example: 1 full rep would be (lock-off happens at the concentric phase for maximum effort): pull -> lock 5s at the top -> go down pull -> lock 5s at 90 degrees angle -> finish pull-up -> go down pull -> lock 5s at 125 degrees angle -> finish pull-up -> go down A set consists of 2-3 reps, or more but it is already quite challenging. Curious to hear your thoughts on this, thanks for the video !
Is it ok to push through like tom does on his second weighted hang to the point where you are shaking like that? I thought if I shake I'm losing form so the load is too high?
he said he would reduce the load a little bit, which implies he thinks he will break form in the following sets. it is ok if you can keep the form, but if you are pushing so hard that you shake you probably will gas out soon.
I disagree, shaking on a maximum weight move is just fine, it shows you're putting the effort in, and with such low reps you're not going to injure yourself
@@ChrisMadd96 personally I don't think the weighted pullup should be a slow move, that's why he was shaking. Weighted pull up concentrics should be explosive. Maybe weighted eccentrics are better slow.
@@peterkjellstrom3100 you can't skip a day that never existed to begin with! Also extra bulk would just be more weight because legs aren't my biggest concern when I can already pistol squat, win dyno comps, and climb V11s. It would just add unnecessary weight, and possibly make me less flexible if I don't do extra stretching when doing legs
At age 64, after several yeas of progression, I have worked up to weighted 50lb open-grip three fingers each hand grip for four reps. Could barely do one when I started. The key is patience+consistency
Sound. Im 42 and im on week 3 of finger strength program. Not on the weights yet, but there coming.👍
Incredible!!! Love it. Consistency is nearly always the key.
You beast 😳
you mean 4 one arm pull ups with 3 fingers each hand?
@@Brewsto Both hands, three fingers each, six total. I am not Magnus or Adam! Bodyweight only, I went from three/set to 23.
To avoid elbow pain on the narrow grip pullups, if your bar allows, do neutral grip pullups (palms face inwards towards each other). This is similar to a hammer curl and will target the brachi and long bicep head. They're my go to for brachi training and I've never had any elbow pain
It is really interesting to see the philosophy of different climbers on pull up training. People like Magnus Midtbo who can do pull ups with an insane amount of added weight and one arm pull up for days. However, recently I saw a video of Kai Harada, who said he basically never trained pulls ups and never really trained on a finger board until earlier this year when climbing gyms were closed. Just shows that there are many ways to achieve your goals and that dedication and passion are such important drivers. I like pull ups and use them regularly in my training, so I definetely loved this video! :)
Obviously it just depends on your own time/location limitations. Obviously if you're able to go actual climbing more often that would lead to the most specific type of training. However, most people don't have a gym within walking distance or have other time limitations so need to make up for that with other kinds of training.
Well said - there are MANY ways to the end goal. That's why it's very hard to say there are exercises that you MUST do or that certainly training tools are the ONLY way to achieve things... etc etc. Its a broad church!
@@MrTheHegemon “Obviously if you're able to go actual climbing more often that would lead to the most specific type of training.” but especially with climbing on real rock to me it seems like it doesn’t really target maximum strength and it’s mentally demanding. With pull-ups and other exercise you can really tune the load and target specific muscle groups.
I like doing pull ups. I like feeling strong and seeing that progression. Plus it makes my body look good. Hah.
Baaaah. I got the notification for the video after I did my pull up workout! Flipping heck Tom, get your timing right!
Hahah! Sorry!
Just what I need at the moment as I need to change my training regime up a bit and am looking to start single arm training. Nicely explained and demonstrated. Perfect length. Thanks.
Great advice! I've just got past 2 years of climbing and this video is right on time for some targeted training. So sick of not being able to do more than 5 dead hang pull ups yet I can lead in the 11s and 12s at my gym. This is exactly what I need to get past my current plateau. Thanks!!
I was just looking into this, you guys are mind readers!
ME TOO
It is such a genuine idea to bring a competitive climber with biceps that are bigger than my head and show us how how to train the intermediate level of climbers.
Hahaha you have been talking to tyler nelson....long isometrics. Love it
Hi Lattice crew, awesome video and super helpful! Would you recommend doing a few of/all of these exercises in one session with some days between pull up sessions or would you say do one exercise each day perhaps?
I've been doing calisthenics for a while now and these moves are a staple for me. I'm new to climbing and I've noticed this helps a lot when it comes to overhangs. However as soon as I climb vertical the strength feels useless without proper technique. It's safe to say this training won't make you an intermediate climber, but it's good training if you already are one. Awesome video guys.
Yep, climbing takes a lot of strength but there’s no substitute for technique. Also overhangs are the best 🙃
Generally, the more overhanging a climb is, the bigger/better the holds need to be, which lets you utilize more of that raw pullup and core strength compared to vertically/slightly overhung that generally put more emphasis on finger strength imo.
@@slapthesloper very true, plus overhangs give opportunities for cool moves and betas that you never get on vertical or slab walls
Hello Lattice Training, i don't hear you meantion anything about pauses inbetween your sets, which is very important when you are training the strenght component, since you should be able to give in max effort in every set and repetition. Hope you will take this in mind, so the climbing community following you, will become even stronger!
Yup, strength training (and the rests associated with it) should mostly be informed by the ability to put in maximal (or close to) effort during each set.
For some the rest may be 2 mins, others it may be 4 mins. Depends on training history!
This video shows you don't have to do 50 plus raps, if you have good technique. Training think is so important, twice as strong as opposed to just climb in the lot.. great video thank you.
Great video, thanks a lot :) Could you please suggest how to combine these exercises into one session resp/sets wise? I guess thou shalt not do all of them in a row...
So, you can see he has his dip belt on upside down, because he is doing pull-ups which are like upside down dips, init.
naw this was taped in Oz
Amazing info. Inspired, but not so sure if I have the elbows these days. So it's something to experiment with. Jen is brilliant. Good fun watching this one.
Does anyone else get tendinosis flare-ups from lock-off training, regardless of the elbow angle?
I used to get them. The key for me is a good warm up. I would do some dynamic stretches and couple of sets of curls with 10kg plate to get a little pump and get the blood flowing. If it really bad, just take couple of days of rest and use ice.
Hope it helps :)
@@MikiusMTV Ill add some curls into my warmup and see if that helps, thanks!
You can also do lock offs using rings or TRX. Something that’s suspended and allows for a bit of movement so elbows are under so much torsion. Fitness FAQs rings gives this advice to prevent elbow strains.
@@Ak74fr3ak Also try to reduce the intensity/set/reps/frequency until the problems go away. Take care of your tendons and let them heal! Also, try variations in form. Sometimes a small change in form makes all the difference. Biomechanics is complex. Specially in compound movements over several joints. Good luck.
I had a bout of tendonitis in both elbows when I first started adding weight to pull-ups, and I found that, like other commenters here, rest, warming up, and in my case high reps with the theraband twice a day to just really get the blood flowing did wonders! Curls, tricep extensions, etc.
The tendonitis never came back.
Would you do all these exercises in one workout
Some pull-ups should also be done with the hands facing towards It allows for a different shoulder position, we need our shoulders to have full rotation for healthy elbows.
Great content! Detailed without waffling on and very clear demonstration of the exercises. Really appreciate having a suggested rep/set range.
Subscribed!
How would you combine this with the 20 minute work outs? Only so much time in a week!
What about the resting time in between different sets? Does it matter?
How long should I rest between the sets and should I do all 5 exercises in one session or is it enough to pick one or two?
Rest between sets is somewhat subjective, but you basically want to let your Central Nervous System rest, not the muscles. Usually 2-3 minutes between heavy sets is optimal, while lighter sets with higher reps might not fatigue your CNS as much as the muscles themselves, so a rest under 90 sec is okay even. As for how many of the exercises per workout, that depends on your training/workout frequency, because there are optimal #'s of sets per week on different muscles. Probably just 2 exercises, maybe 3 per workout if doing 3 sets of each, and if training like this twice a week
Basically, for an efficiant amounth of workout, you need something between 12 to 21 sets per week per body part. Lower than that you will not have enough volume per week to have significant muscle growth, more than that you'll likelly be overtraining. The amount you need really depends on a lot a factors : age, level of fitness, volume of climbing (if you climb really hard, your body will not sustain a crazy amount of workout). Some People can sustain a crazy amount of volume, some just need 12 sets and get jacked... You have to try !
Start with 12 sets a week per muscle (12 sets of back exercices for exemple, like 12 sets of pull ups) and "feel your body". If you need more, go for more, if you improve with that amount, don't overdo and wait until you really need more volume to increase that volume.
Some variations stress out muscles differently, so it is possible to have more than 12 sets of "back exercises".
For exemple, per week I do 3 sets of very heavy weighted pull ups, 4 sets of volume pull ups, 3 sets of heavy rowing, 3 sets of medium weight rowing (using a technic to concentrate on my lats) and 3 sets of "humble rows" (wich target back shoulders to compensate muscle imbalance). And now I'll add some isometric pull ups workout to build my one arm pull up. Adding to all of that training, I sometime do pull ups after a climbing session if I feel that I did not put too much stress on my muscles and nervous system (like a session where I mainly work technic or on my balance, feet... and no power moves)
Would love to see a video on weighted leg exercises! Looking to improve my strength and flexibility for climbing.
This is a must! Here are some exercises I'm trying to incorporate; step ups, step downs, lunges, single leg deadlift, active pike compressions and some elevated glutes bridges.
What would the recommended sets/reps for the isometric holds be?
6 reps, 30-45 seconds, 2 minute rest
@@ChrisMadd96 well said. Not a bad suggestion.
Amazing video and really good tips! What's your opinion about doing pull ups on edges/campus rungs? I've been doing pull ups on a 25mm edge and my pulling strengh has improved a lot!
If you want to achive a full workout in a short time it’s quite fine, otherwise a more specific workout e.g. Max holding on small edges and max pulling on jugs or a bar usually is more effective
^
Can you guys make a video on the EMOM pull ups for beginners/intermediates to build a base??
I did the 90 degree lock for the firs time a few days ago and it was killer!
Thank you for the info and insight
Do you recommend we all 5 exercises (with the recommended # of sets from the video) in 1 pull up session? Or should we pick a few out of 5?
Great worckouts! I have been doing many weighted pullups for a wile but I haven´t tried any of the other variations. One question I have, and I hope I don´t repeat something asked too much on this chat. Can all these 5 listed exercises be done in one only training sesion? or is it beter to spread them along a few. And how many times per week would this be advisable?
Hi guys,
Quick question about Exercise #3: Offset Pull Ups.
As part of an 8 week macro-cycle plan, I trained offsets for a 3 week strength protocol. During the final week, I developed a twinge in my right tricep at the elbow. The pain only occurs during assistance: when the left arm is pulling up with the right arm assisting. I could still use my right arm for offset pull ups with my left assisting. From this I can infer that the pain comes from the pushing motion against the assist. I am using a climbing rope knotted off at 8-inch intervals. I enjoyed training this exercise as the progression is super easy to measure based on which knot you use for assistance.
Since the pain in my tricep/elbow started I have shelved offsets and started training weighted pull ups instead. I wonder what your advice would be for resuming this training again? As part of the strength protocol, I was doing antagonist conditioning on rest days/opposing days to the pull up training. This included push ups to failure and also some push ups at an added weight. On reflection, this is actually a lot of loading to the triceps both on training days and rest days. I think this is what contributed to the tricep irritation as my elbow basically just wasn't getting properly rested.
big up to the lattice fly making an appearance
Really appreciate the video but I think you should mention the rep/set + rest more clearly. For example you didn't mention it for the off set pull up.
Hey guys, great vid! Please can i ask you a question, how to combine those exercises during a week? Do you maybe recommend to choose two, three exercises and then change them after around two weeks?
Mostly, i climb in a gym two-three times a week + one strength session at home. Tenx a lot!
I would suggest to keep it simple and keep it consistent. Don't make any changes sooner for at least 6 weeks (unless you really have to). Your general weekly plan looks good to me.
@@oracla I agree, tenx 😊💪🏼
5:38 Tom's left shoulder is higher on the weighted pull ups, showing an imbalance that could lead to impingement or injuries.
It does not necessarily lead to impingement or injuries. You can have unsymmetrical shoulders.
You are wrong if you think every human is supposed to be completely symmetrical and/or if you think that asymmetrical presentation can be used to predict injury
Where would this fit into a typical training week? After a bouldering/fingerboard session? or on its own day?..
Not doing warmups seems to be the source of most injuries, maybe you should have done a warmup demo specifically for these exercises as you were talking.
I believe muscle ups also add's to the climbers strenght. I'm doing currently only calisthenics, for preparation to climb and I can see difference in power once I added muscle ups... what do you think about it?
First: Big Thx Lattice, i use your Workouts and it makes fun and i see a progress
but
i always strugle with Pull Up excersises. I can max do 8( when i am really fresh).
I dont know how to train for it. I also found the basic exercises hard.
is there a basic training idea to progress in this? ( like 3 times a week do Pull up training)
And Look Off is the same. I can't hold 90° with 1 arm. ( with bodyweight)
My climbing level is about 6C
Which dipping belt do you recommend? Thanks
Definitely not too sciencey. Love that insight
You shouldn't do the max number of repetitions if doing several sets of 2-5r reps. If you can do a max of 5, do 4 or even 3 and more reps towards the final set, max on the final set or two maybe?
Would it make sense to integrate a couple "isometrics" toward the end of the warmup and then move on to something like weighted pullups? The idea being that one may get some of the tendon/muscle health benefits of the isometrics, but still have plenty in the tank to train power.
Would I make sense to do a combination of the the long duration isometric holds (density hangs) in a narrow grip position (exercise 5). As a way to build tendon density in the upper forearm? Aiming to combat those common golfers elbow niggles
Weighted exercise, I tend to use a weighted vest with a weight belt.
Steady on Jen!
🐱👤 I'm always trying to do the pull ups as dynamic as possible. For max. strength is it better to do it slowly and more statically?
.
Both. Slow, fast, and isometric.
Should I do pullups with thumbs under or over the bar?
In most cases we're doing pull ups to get strong at pulling, so use the grip that your are strongest with. This way you'll gain the best adaptations from the exercises. Leave specific grip work for the wall or hangboard.
If the final close-grip pull up is done on a sloper (i.e. Moon fingerboard) does it work the same muscles?
How many pull ups should I can do, before starting with weighted pull ups?
10...15...what do you think😳
For the majority of exercises once you are passing that ~10 rep range its mainly about endurance. Still helpful for climbing but you can definitely start adding weight once you can do 5+ I'd say.
If you can do more than 5 I'd say start adding weight. It doesn't have to be much. Just keep progressively adding more.
After being confortable with 10 pull-ups, I started 3 x 5 weighted pull ups (~ 2 min rest in-between) Worked great for me
How many sets are recommended for offset pull ups?
what about weighted pull ups with weighted vest?
The isometrics... is this applicable for recruitment?
Cheers!
Great video !
Am I intermediate if I can do a one arm pull up?
at 14 minutes you talk about moves that you call 137 and 158. What are those?
He means moving between the rungs numbered 1-3-7 or 1-5-8 on the campus board without touching any of the rungs in-between
@@SM-wr3jr thanks!
I didn't think the 30s isometric holds would be hard at all... I was so so wrong.
Why isnt archer pull ups listed here??
Thank you for the vid.
nice video as always!
just a question , when u say "intermediate climber" what french sport grade range does This réfère to?
It doesn't have a specific sport grade.... kind of impossible to say that. In the broadest terms, intermediate should take in both performance and training history (when it comes to training planning). Roughly you're look at the window of more than 1yr and less than 5yrs.
@@LatticeTraining thks for responding!
ok so its more about training history. thank u for these videos they are verry motivating!
Could u please do a video "from 8a to 9a" just like the "7a to 8a" that was realy good.
keep up the amazing work!
Not trying to be snarky, but since you mentioned that you want specificity in your training, how exactly is the OAP or the progression to it specific to actual climbing?
Tom has climbed V12/V13 and can't do a OAP, I know several people who climb 5.13 without being close to a OAP. It seems that just like high rep BW pull-ups, it's more of a party trick than a useful tool for climbing. Unless you want more one-arm strength to progress more on the campus-board, which is more obviously specific for climbing, but can't you just use bigger rungs to progress there?
Genuinely curious.
Jumping on this, while one could say you can never have "enough" strength, keeping training sessions relevant to climbing progression (esp. when time and recovery time comes into play) is sometimes challenging.
Genuinely curious too :)
I think the benefit of maximal training like that isn't necessarily that you'll encounter the need to use all of it on a given move. It's that when you do encounter a powerful move it will be a lower percentage of your max and therefore less taxing during the climb.
Regarding specificity: It also depends on the style of the climb you're training for. There are powerful but "uncomplicated" climbs where being able to do a OAP alone will almost get you to the top, and other very technical climbs where OAPs (or any power/strength) won't help you at all.
It's useful if you can transfer it to small edges i.e. a one armer on a 20mm edge but otherwise you're correct in your assertion.
Cool video!! One question though: Do you do all these exercises in one session?
This is what I'm wondering as well. I think doing all would be way too much, maybe one or two depending on the intensity? Combine one concentric with one isometric/eccentric exercise?
Hey Tom - if you don’t mind me asking, do you happen to have a history of shoulder issues? There seems to be a slight disbalance, to be seen on the weighted 2 arm pull ups at the top of the ROM. Wonder if that might be an indication for going in with a slightly lower weight and worth a caveat to people on here? Good and safe form having to take precedence, I guess :-)
Yup, he's had shoulder injuries 20 yrs ago and has had a tight RHS shoulder for years and years. Good form is always a high priority, but in reality with elite athletes there is way more leniency on this. Is one of the things where we see people complaining that elite athletes will get injured by not using perfect form.... this is rarely the case. Elite athletes are generally very robust and will have the capacity to endure more than you think.
Jen is jacked!
Just from personal experience, I'd avoid doing bar lock-offs. I trained one arm lock-offs for about half a year and ended up with a really nasty case of tendonitis in my elbows. I now train weighted pullups and assisted one arm pullups and find that keeping movement in the exercise massively reduces the strain on my elbows, while still carrying over to being able to lock-off when it's needed.
If I don´t have a dip-belt it is possible to wear a bagpack with additional weight or does this put weight on the wrong spots?
It will change the balance of your body in a wrong way. Away from your center of gravity. I would need to draw the vectors to explain it clearly, but it will drive your body backward and not downward like a dip-belt would do. Wich may lead to injuries. dip-belt is not that expensive and very usefull.
Awesome 🤩
When we do weighted pull ups we do them at 85%. What do you recommend for the weighted in this vid? 🙏👌🏼😉💪🏼😉👍🏼
He said you should do sets of 2 to 5 pull-ups I think, so imo it's not really about the % or the number of kg, but about the max you can do
@@MrNews31 If you can do 5 reps, it's not your max load though. At 85% you're looking at something like sets of 5 reps, while 2 reps are basically where your max weight is.
@@WyandWombat Yeah you're right thanks
@@WyandWombat that’s what I thought. So it has to be near 100%. In other words your 2 rep max!? Hard session! 💪🏼😉👍🏼
Would pause pull-ups (or frenchies) be considered isometric exercises as well? The lock-off duration is shorter per position, let's say 3-5 seconds but you hit multiple angles per set.
For example:
1 full rep would be (lock-off happens at the concentric phase for maximum effort):
pull -> lock 5s at the top -> go down
pull -> lock 5s at 90 degrees angle -> finish pull-up -> go down
pull -> lock 5s at 125 degrees angle -> finish pull-up -> go down
A set consists of 2-3 reps, or more but it is already quite challenging.
Curious to hear your thoughts on this, thanks for the video !
how are her legs not going forward? when I do a full up I naturally do a lean
hi last one is not so good for kinesiology arms .......
Jen seems to have got one over on gravity…
Is it ok to push through like tom does on his second weighted hang to the point where you are shaking like that? I thought if I shake I'm losing form so the load is too high?
he said he would reduce the load a little bit, which implies he thinks he will break form in the following sets. it is ok if you can keep the form, but if you are pushing so hard that you shake you probably will gas out soon.
I disagree, shaking on a maximum weight move is just fine, it shows you're putting the effort in, and with such low reps you're not going to injure yourself
@@DIYToPen I'm agreeing with you mate, it's OK, but you won't be able to keep form for many reps if you are shaking in your first
@@ChrisMadd96 personally I don't think the weighted pullup should be a slow move, that's why he was shaking. Weighted pull up concentrics should be explosive. Maybe weighted eccentrics are better slow.
Hey, just one question regarding grip. Why do you use monkey grip instead of full grip?
I'm assuming it is to remain specific to climbing since you will never really have scenarios to full grip a climbing hold/rock edge
less engagement of biceps when you use a monkey grip I'm sure
For me it's just more comfortable.
There is absolutely no danger...of me jumping in with 200 % bodyweight pull-ups :-/ ( I do try though ! )
Wait.. am i supposed to be able to do a pullup??
I'm a climber and am unable to do a single pull-up!
Managed to do a couple after several months of climbing but I’m fairly lightweight
What counts as an intermediate climber? You say that repeatedly, but considering your hardest climbs are "not that hard maybe V8", hard to tell.
I can't speak for him, but usually when people say intermediate climber they mean ~V5-V7
@@Benkkuful repoints or flashes?
@@MythAvatar redpoint
Interesting to see 2 very athletic people of comparable strength, but one very bulky and one very skinny. On top of that the girl being the bulky one.
Her right arm is like twice as big as her left arm😂. No hate. Just wanted to piont that out.
Not really, that's just the distortion of the camera lens at that angle
Damn, her shoulders are huge!!!
clickbait
lol at not knowing that there are more than 2 pounds in a kilogram.
Her arms are wider than my legs
Maybe stop skipping leg-day ;-)
@@peterkjellstrom3100 you can't skip a day that never existed to begin with!
Also extra bulk would just be more weight because legs aren't my biggest concern when I can already pistol squat, win dyno comps, and climb V11s. It would just add unnecessary weight, and possibly make me less flexible if I don't do extra stretching when doing legs
You speak too much.
argh this video is too long...
haha! Best comment on here :-D
Is this a serious comment? Go watch something shorter then, maybe a kids show with lots of colors and flashing lights...
3:24 every other grip than that wouldnt be a pull-up lol