fun fact, that 18" number came from competition rules way back in the day. it is an entirely arbitrary number. It just sounded like a good idea to the guy that wrote the rule. Yes the closer the better, but that 18" gave enough room for different circumstances.
Excellent point made at 2:50. The whole point of the guidelines (such as ABYC E-11.10.1.1.1) is to place the overcurrent protection device as close as practically possible to the power source to protect the rest of the wire run, and the maritime ABYC's (American Boat and Yacht Council) recommendation of no more than 7" is so strict since having a boat fire while out at sea can be an extremely life-endangering event. In the maritime industry, Blue Sea Systems has a product called MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse) Terminal Fuse Blocks, part numbers 5191 and 2151, that make it such that the terminal you bolt your cable's lug to is itself fused, ensuring the whole cable run itself is protected. The fuse options range from 30A - 300A. The only drawback would be that you'll need a standard battery post to marine style battery stud adapter (or use marine deep cycle batteries that already have threaded stud connections), and you'll have to crimp on lugs to the cable before connecting it to the MRBF. This makes for a very robust setup that should be impervious to long term vibration exposure (either in a boat's engine room with a big diesel motor, or in a high SPL competition vehicle).
I've always make a bracket that if possible straight off one of the battery tie down brackets/strap then keep the first part of the power supply lead as short as possible between the battery terminal and the major fuse for the whole system. Then always secure the cable after that fuse with stand off cable tie mounts if possible every 6 inches. Where the cable passes through bodywork or trim panels use an appropriate rubber grommet. I've been doing this since the mid 90's and have never expirienced any cable failures/ shorts.
Thanks, it’s basically common sense which isn’t always common. I may not ever do another audio system, but regardless, I enjoy learning from your channel. Thanks!
One more (minor) consideration, I try to keep the run to the inline fuse as short as possible, but you should also make it long enough to make the bends it needs to make without stressing. That extra inch or two you cut away does no one any good if you have your cable bent in a hairpin that stresses your compression fit terminal lug and/or your fuse terminal.
A good rule of thumb that i have learned as an electrician, always fasten your cable to the point you are no longer able to grap the wire and pull it. if that requires a lot of cable ties, so be it. Also ALWAYS tighten the connector screw to the specefications of the manufacture, so if it says you gotta tighten with 5nm. then no more or less. they have tested that to make sure the wire is not loose so i can't vibrate itself loose or you dont over tighten it and can over time break each strands of wire in the cable wich in result makes the cable diameter smaller wich results in the wire not being able to handle the same amount of Amps. I hope this comment helps, at least i hope Marc will read this and agree with me on this :)
18” is a lot in my opinion. The shorter you can brake that circuit the safer you car is. Some times fuses fail and terminals get hot and can go unnoticed until the point of failure the less unprotected the greater the risk of fire
Safe routing and mounting is more important than how short it is. If you need to go a bit longer to avoid sharp or hot things, then do it. It is a good rule though. Extra sleeving on the un fused section is always good too.
What about a fuse holder that has one end that bolts directly to the battery terminal? Like with a copper lug straight to batt from fuse holder, no wire on that side
Who decided on 18"? Why not 16" or 20"? The hard limit of 18" has always been a kind of made up number. You need to be as short as possible when taking the mounting location of the fuse in to consideration AND any objects that could damage the wire and short out.
So could I install the fuse as close as possible to the start of the positive wire near the battery and there would be no issue other than fitmet issues ? Do you recommend as close as you can ? is there different recommendations for different size wire I need to add a inline fuse to 16 gauge wire for heated grips
Off sorta topic question. How can I isolate my amps ground so it's not being interfered with other car electronics? I've been getting high pitched sounds from my led ambient lights and the ECU of my car, wanna find the simplest way to isolate both my sub and full range amp. Appreciate the help with these videos👍
Great video! Do the same rules apply to distribution blocks? My shop owner insists that you don't need a fuse at the distribution block because the main fuse protects the whole thing, but that doesn't make sense to me. TIA!
It depends... if there is a step down in power wire size, yes you likely need a fuse as the smaller wire probably can't handle as much current as the larger fuse feeding the whole system. I talk about this more in my electrical system design videos - www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication/search?query=electrical
@@CarAudioFabrication imho, this is similar to house electrical systems. You have a main breaker protecting the main wires. Then at the distribution system (panel), you have a bunch of different sized breakers protecting different sized wiring going to different areas of the house. So for car audio, you'll have a main fuse protecting the main wire going to the distribution block. After that, you'll have smaller fuses protecting the smaller power wires going to the different components of your system. Is that remotely accurate or am I way off?
What about relocating battery terminals? I want to create a distro block inside the vehicle instead of running a bunch of wires through the firewall. Would this still apply? Most new vehicles have long run power wires when the battery is under the seat or in the trunk to jump the car or have access to power.
Another thing a lot of don't understand is that all wire is not constructed the same and even though the gauge may be the same the current capacities can be different.
I watched quite a few of your vids for guidance in installing my basic system of a 8" powered sub, 4x50W compact amp, and four door speakers. I've heard the 18" rule from many sources. To me, it seems that 18" is an arbitrary distance. What are the calculations showing that 18" should be the maximum distance from the battery? Why not 12", 20", 27.3", 74mm, etc? Thank you for your professional and informative videos!
In rhe video Mark said it should be "as short as possible". IMO you should make "as short as possible" the maximum length. As Mark pointed out, you can (and absolutely should) make a bracket for the fuse holder/circuit breaker that puts it inches away from the battery terminal. Why 18" for a maximum between battery and fuse? Who knows? My assumption is, some believe a number must exist and 18" wound up being the number or 18" should be plenty to reach the nearest flat spot in the average car where a fuse holder/circuit breaker could be mounted because newbies don't think about making brackets. I can't say with 100% certainty that no one has tried to claim the 18" max is due to electrical factors like voltage drop or whatever (I'll be shocked if no one replies to tell me how wrong I am and blah, blah, blaaaahhh), but, I am certain no calculations of any kind went into the 18" "rule". So, new rule, As Short As Possible. 🤏 All the best.
an odd issue I had with the car in my thumbnail I had to replace my front shocks the old shock shot apart when I took the top mount bolts off shock oil everywhere. I get the shock replaced put my tools in my trunk the my 12 packs of soda I drive 3 miles and my cab fills up with smoke! I thought It was my shock oil burning off my engine, It was my brake light wire shorted out by the soda cans first burning off the wire insulation then my carpet. The fuse never blew?
i have a 20221 nissan sentra sv. i am planning on replacing the speakers and adding a 4 channel amp. If i use a 4 channel inline converter for the amps rca's, will i lose any functions like phone calls or navigation sound?
What if you just take 150 amp in line fuse and one end of the fuse is connected to the wire and the other end of the fuse is bolted right to the terminal?
Quick tip for people, DONT put your fuse block under your seat, hidden in a spot you cant see or somewhere questionable. ALWAYS put it out in clear view for ease of being seen and also if it burns it doesn't set your car on fire. If its tucked in between somewhere you may have a bad day😂
Hi, im about to do an amp installation. The manual that came with the amp said it needs a 40 amp fuse, and i bought 4 metres of cable from an electrical supplier (in the uk). The cable is rated to 50 amps. Is this okay?
Yeah I kept fused positive wire hard mounted to a under hood panel close to the battery plus I ran a separate battery to body ground wire near the battery as well so that all that current wouldn't go through the engine to body ground and other grounds. I ran 1 gauge power and ground wires. As a side note,one time I had temporarily disconnected the separate amp ground I for mentioned until i noticed that the stereo system wasn't working right and sounded crummy. As a result of the disconnected wire the amp ground was now going through the 10 gauge engine to body ground that had a disconnect socket connector on it. The insulation was melted off of the 10 gauge wire so i repaired that and refastened my 1 gauge battery to body ground. Lesson learned
@@cpzmelbs if you're replying to my comment,the amps were mounted in a wooden cassette style enclosure I built for my stereo build and sat on the cargo floor behind the rear seat so the amps ground was a one gauge ground wire from the amps ground terminal to the body behind the rear seat. I had fused power and ground distribution blocks in the amps enclosure(3 amps). That ground path was going through the engine to firewall ground wire(10 gauge). Apparently I had a brain fart when I replaced the car battery and didn't think that I needed to hook up that shorty one gauge battery to body ground next to the battery. My system was 700 watts RMS
Do the wire gages before and after the fuse need to be the same? If i want a flexible wire can I use a 6" run of 4GA, then my fuse, then a 15ft run of 0GA to my 150A amps?
Short answer is they should be the same size. Your electrical system should be designed as that: a complete system, not a mixed set of parts. Your main power wire should be sized to carry the load of your amps plus a little extra, and your main fuse at the battery should be sized to protect that wire. In your example, you would probably overheat the short section of #4 wire before blowing a fuse since #4 copper wire is only rated for about 85 amps.
What I never understood is why don't they make fuse holder that has a positive post mounting system. No better way to fuse the system in alot of applications with a fused battery terminal.
@@jeremiahsmith6689like the knuknonceptz terminal. In lots of applications it would work good. Every situation is different, but they seem the way to go if you are able too.
I have 3 power runs and 3 batteries. I have so many fuses I lost count. But it’s at least 10. Because I have two amps both have triple inputs, so that’s 6, one for each power wire run and have 1-2 more for the mid range amp.
18" is ridiculous! An arbitrary rule from the old days of car audio competition. I've always mounted the fuse on a bracket immediately adjacent to the battery and sprayed it with the same anti corrosion coating that you put on the battery terminals. Lead has never been more than 4-6 inches. I cringe when I see a long lead coming off the battery and routed up the fender along the line where the hood could close on it, and the fuse is clear up on the strut tower or something. Incredibly unsafe and inefficient
Car audio bugs me. Technology just never seems o reach the industry. Why do OEM head units not have a TOS out or HDMI out? Why do after market HU, AMPD DSP continue to use RCA plugs? Really need six runs of RCA in a tight space like a vehicle?? Why does car audio power and ground wires need to be the size of what you see on telephone poles while home audio is a standard plug? How is a small speaker like in soundbar or Bose or Sonos ONE able to fill a living room with decent sound yet we need massive woofers and amps and dsps and in a tiny little vehicle???? Why are vehicle doors not made with an enclosure behind the speaker hole that clears the glass ,instead of being completely hollow door? Car makers spend massive money on RnD and tech on rain sensing wipers yet they cheap out on an a couple cable leads on HU? Who the hell dont know its raining when they driving? The most popular thing to do IN a vehicle is listen to the stereo but its the least technological.
On the note about wire sizes, the difference between home and vehicle is voltage. Home runs 120v/230v depending on the country. Vehicle runs 12v (technically 14v). To get the same power (watts) down a line, the one with lower voltage will run a higher amperage and need a larger cable. 10amps down a 120v line is 1200w. 10amps down a 12v line is 120w. So to run an 800w system at home, it can go down a small household wire. But on a 12v system the wire will need to be much larger diameter. Power lines along the road run tens of thousands of volts in order to keep cable size down (size, weight and cost). They run into a step down transformer near the street to bring it down to household voltage. It's the same really with the RCA's... Could run thin ones to save space but over 5 metres, audio quality will be bad, especially on the bass end. Optical/Toslink cables would make a lot more sense for car audio. Much less space, lighter and no degradation over that distance. Also no interference. Have had to route power cables and RCA's in non optimal ways many times just to avoid interference. Plus they can run all channels (rl, rr, fl, fr, sub) all down one tiny cable. They really missed a trick with optical
@mdutchy2582 dc vs ac. Your car uses dc current which requires thicker Guage wiring to carry higher currents. Other thing is your house won't have things like road noise or engine noise that it needs to cancel out and be louder than. You also are on the move so if you want to play louder than what others want to hear most of the time you won't be near them long enough to disturb them as much as you would your neighbors while being stationary and no wind noise for them to down your music or
New cars already have them. They even have a BMS (Battery management system). Now you have to recalibrate your BMS after changing your battery in your vehicle or adding an additional load like aftermarket electronics.
It is very important youre just stating a bunch of personal experiences not actual facts or tests. If youve ever completed a real amp draw test youd know its important.@CarAudioFabrication
Wrong. It's silver tinned OFC. Superior to normal OFC as it has marine grade moisture resistance. But people that have never seen actually good car audio wire always get confused so happy to help you learn. 👍
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
fun fact, that 18" number came from competition rules way back in the day. it is an entirely arbitrary number. It just sounded like a good idea to the guy that wrote the rule. Yes the closer the better, but that 18" gave enough room for different circumstances.
@@pocket5s1 fun fact the 18" rule was established in the mecp certification book. Mecp was started in 1991
@@flexart174 Fun fact, those competitions and rules were happening in the 1980’s.
This answered part of my question! So closer to the battery is better and would cause no other issues besides fitment issues?
Excellent point made at 2:50. The whole point of the guidelines (such as ABYC E-11.10.1.1.1) is to place the overcurrent protection device as close as practically possible to the power source to protect the rest of the wire run, and the maritime ABYC's (American Boat and Yacht Council) recommendation of no more than 7" is so strict since having a boat fire while out at sea can be an extremely life-endangering event.
In the maritime industry, Blue Sea Systems has a product called MRBF (Marine Rated Battery Fuse) Terminal Fuse Blocks, part numbers 5191 and 2151, that make it such that the terminal you bolt your cable's lug to is itself fused, ensuring the whole cable run itself is protected. The fuse options range from 30A - 300A. The only drawback would be that you'll need a standard battery post to marine style battery stud adapter (or use marine deep cycle batteries that already have threaded stud connections), and you'll have to crimp on lugs to the cable before connecting it to the MRBF. This makes for a very robust setup that should be impervious to long term vibration exposure (either in a boat's engine room with a big diesel motor, or in a high SPL competition vehicle).
I've always make a bracket that if possible straight off one of the battery tie down brackets/strap then keep the first part of the power supply lead as short as possible between the battery terminal and the major fuse for the whole system. Then always secure the cable after that fuse with stand off cable tie mounts if possible every 6 inches. Where the cable passes through bodywork or trim panels use an appropriate rubber grommet. I've been doing this since the mid 90's and have never expirienced any cable failures/ shorts.
As a consideration, why not use one of KnuKonceptz fused battery terminals instead of a block fuse in line?
My car has a positive terminal with a few large fuses and potential mounting points in there. Even my short section is protected 👍
Thanks, it’s basically common sense which isn’t always common. I may not ever do another audio system, but regardless, I enjoy learning from your channel. Thanks!
One more (minor) consideration, I try to keep the run to the inline fuse as short as possible, but you should also make it long enough to make the bends it needs to make without stressing. That extra inch or two you cut away does no one any good if you have your cable bent in a hairpin that stresses your compression fit terminal lug and/or your fuse terminal.
A good rule of thumb that i have learned as an electrician, always fasten your cable to the point you are no longer able to grap the wire and pull it. if that requires a lot of cable ties, so be it.
Also ALWAYS tighten the connector screw to the specefications of the manufacture, so if it says you gotta tighten with 5nm. then no more or less. they have tested that to make sure the wire is not loose so i can't vibrate itself loose or you dont over tighten it and can over time break each strands of wire in the cable wich in result makes the cable diameter smaller wich results in the wire not being able to handle the same amount of Amps.
I hope this comment helps, at least i hope Marc will read this and agree with me on this :)
Mounting the battery and fuse holder to the same part, as in bracket or tube is ideal. That way they vibrate together.
18” is a lot in my opinion. The shorter you can brake that circuit the safer you car is. Some times fuses fail and terminals get hot and can go unnoticed until the point of failure the less unprotected the greater the risk of fire
ended up having to get rid of fuses after i went past 2000 watts due to them blowing continually despite everything being hooked up correctly
Safe routing and mounting is more important than how short it is. If you need to go a bit longer to avoid sharp or hot things, then do it. It is a good rule though. Extra sleeving on the un fused section is always good too.
What about a fuse holder that has one end that bolts directly to the battery terminal? Like with a copper lug straight to batt from fuse holder, no wire on that side
Never liked the fuse with set screws that grind into a wire. Even adding a wrap or other. Best are ring terminal style fues.
Who decided on 18"? Why not 16" or 20"? The hard limit of 18" has always been a kind of made up number. You need to be as short as possible when taking the mounting location of the fuse in to consideration AND any objects that could damage the wire and short out.
Is it crucial to have a 2nd fuse block for a 2nd battery setup? thanks
So could I install the fuse as close as possible to the start of the positive wire near the battery and there would be no issue other than fitmet issues ? Do you recommend as close as you can ? is there different recommendations for different size wire I need to add a inline fuse to 16 gauge wire for heated grips
Off sorta topic question. How can I isolate my amps ground so it's not being interfered with other car electronics? I've been getting high pitched sounds from my led ambient lights and the ECU of my car, wanna find the simplest way to isolate both my sub and full range amp. Appreciate the help with these videos👍
If my car's factory amplifier is rated at 120 amps, what kind of fuse size should I use if I'm going to use 1/0 gauge wires in the big 3 upgrade?
@CAF can you make a video of installing a secondary battery
Great video! Do the same rules apply to distribution blocks? My shop owner insists that you don't need a fuse at the distribution block because the main fuse protects the whole thing, but that doesn't make sense to me. TIA!
It depends... if there is a step down in power wire size, yes you likely need a fuse as the smaller wire probably can't handle as much current as the larger fuse feeding the whole system. I talk about this more in my electrical system design videos - www.youtube.com/@CarAudioFabrication/search?query=electrical
@@CarAudioFabrication imho, this is similar to house electrical systems. You have a main breaker protecting the main wires. Then at the distribution system (panel), you have a bunch of different sized breakers protecting different sized wiring going to different areas of the house. So for car audio, you'll have a main fuse protecting the main wire going to the distribution block. After that, you'll have smaller fuses protecting the smaller power wires going to the different components of your system.
Is that remotely accurate or am I way off?
What about relocating battery terminals? I want to create a distro block inside the vehicle instead of running a bunch of wires through the firewall. Would this still apply? Most new vehicles have long run power wires when the battery is under the seat or in the trunk to jump the car or have access to power.
Thankfully, anything i've seen since i started is to fuse the cable as close to battery as possible
Another thing a lot of don't understand is that all wire is not constructed the same and even though the gauge may be the same the current capacities can be different.
I watched quite a few of your vids for guidance in installing my basic system of a 8" powered sub, 4x50W compact amp, and four door speakers. I've heard the 18" rule from many sources. To me, it seems that 18" is an arbitrary distance. What are the calculations showing that 18" should be the maximum distance from the battery? Why not 12", 20", 27.3", 74mm, etc? Thank you for your professional and informative videos!
In rhe video Mark said it should be "as short as possible". IMO you should make "as short as possible" the maximum length. As Mark pointed out, you can (and absolutely should) make a bracket for the fuse holder/circuit breaker that puts it inches away from the battery terminal.
Why 18" for a maximum between battery and fuse? Who knows? My assumption is, some believe a number must exist and 18" wound up being the number or 18" should be plenty to reach the nearest flat spot in the average car where a fuse holder/circuit breaker could be mounted because newbies don't think about making brackets.
I can't say with 100% certainty that no one has tried to claim the 18" max is due to electrical factors like voltage drop or whatever (I'll be shocked if no one replies to tell me how wrong I am and blah, blah, blaaaahhh),
but, I am certain no calculations of any kind went into the 18" "rule".
So, new rule, As Short As Possible. 🤏
All the best.
an odd issue I had with the car in my thumbnail I had to replace my front shocks the old shock shot apart when I took the top mount bolts off shock oil everywhere. I get the shock replaced put my tools in my trunk the my 12 packs of soda I drive 3 miles and my cab fills up with smoke! I thought It was my shock oil burning off my engine, It was my brake light wire shorted out by the soda cans first burning off the wire insulation then my carpet. The fuse never blew?
i have a 20221 nissan sentra sv. i am planning on replacing the speakers and adding a 4 channel amp. If i use a 4 channel inline converter for the amps rca's, will i lose any functions like phone calls or navigation sound?
What if you just take 150 amp in line fuse and one end of the fuse is connected to the wire and the other end of the fuse is bolted right to the terminal?
Those mosconi...🤩🤩🤩🤩
Nice topic an very importat. Tanks.
Quick tip for people, DONT put your fuse block under your seat, hidden in a spot you cant see or somewhere questionable. ALWAYS put it out in clear view for ease of being seen and also if it burns it doesn't set your car on fire. If its tucked in between somewhere you may have a bad day😂
Hi, im about to do an amp installation. The manual that came with the amp said it needs a 40 amp fuse, and i bought 4 metres of cable from an electrical supplier (in the uk). The cable is rated to 50 amps. Is this okay?
Yeah I kept fused positive wire hard mounted to a under hood panel close to the battery plus I ran a separate battery to body ground wire near the battery as well so that all that current wouldn't go through the engine to body ground and other grounds. I ran 1 gauge power and ground wires. As a side note,one time I had temporarily disconnected the separate amp ground I for mentioned until i noticed that the stereo system wasn't working right and sounded crummy. As a result of the disconnected wire the amp ground was now going through the 10 gauge engine to body ground that had a disconnect socket connector on it. The insulation was melted off of the 10 gauge wire so i repaired that and refastened my 1 gauge battery to body ground. Lesson learned
How was the amp grounded through a random wire after disconnecting the amps ground input?
@@cpzmelbs if you're replying to my comment,the amps were mounted in a wooden cassette style enclosure I built for my stereo build and sat on the cargo floor behind the rear seat so the amps ground was a one gauge ground wire from the amps ground terminal to the body behind the rear seat. I had fused power and ground distribution blocks in the amps enclosure(3 amps). That ground path was going through the engine to firewall ground wire(10 gauge). Apparently I had a brain fart when I replaced the car battery and didn't think that I needed to hook up that shorty one gauge battery to body ground next to the battery. My system was 700 watts RMS
Wonder when they are going to come up with an integrated fuse right in the battery terminal
They have, but they could potentially create a better version.
Do the wire gages before and after the fuse need to be the same? If i want a flexible wire can I use a 6" run of 4GA, then my fuse, then a 15ft run of 0GA to my 150A amps?
Short answer is they should be the same size. Your electrical system should be designed as that: a complete system, not a mixed set of parts. Your main power wire should be sized to carry the load of your amps plus a little extra, and your main fuse at the battery should be sized to protect that wire.
In your example, you would probably overheat the short section of #4 wire before blowing a fuse since #4 copper wire is only rated for about 85 amps.
Put it as close to the battery as practical. It’s only wire protection from short circuits.
What I never understood is why don't they make fuse holder that has a positive post mounting system. No better way to fuse the system in alot of applications with a fused battery terminal.
Like on the newer Nissan's and Honda's?
@@jeremiahsmith6689like the knuknonceptz terminal. In lots of applications it would work good. Every situation is different, but they seem the way to go if you are able too.
I have seen people make the mistake of adding a second battery or capacitor for their system and not adding a second fuse at that power source.
I have 3 power runs and 3 batteries. I have so many fuses I lost count. But it’s at least 10. Because I have two amps both have triple inputs, so that’s 6, one for each power wire run and have 1-2 more for the mid range amp.
Now I have to go look.
Why don't they just build a fuse into the battery terminal?
18" is ridiculous! An arbitrary rule from the old days of car audio competition. I've always mounted the fuse on a bracket immediately adjacent to the battery and sprayed it with the same anti corrosion coating that you put on the battery terminals. Lead has never been more than 4-6 inches. I cringe when I see a long lead coming off the battery and routed up the fender along the line where the hood could close on it, and the fuse is clear up on the strut tower or something. Incredibly unsafe and inefficient
Car audio bugs me. Technology just never seems o reach the industry. Why do OEM head units not have a TOS out or HDMI out? Why do after market HU, AMPD DSP continue to use RCA plugs? Really need six runs of RCA in a tight space like a vehicle?? Why does car audio power and ground wires need to be the size of what you see on telephone poles while home audio is a standard plug? How is a small speaker like in soundbar or Bose or Sonos ONE able to fill a living room with decent sound yet we need massive woofers and amps and dsps and in a tiny little vehicle???? Why are vehicle doors not made with an enclosure behind the speaker hole that clears the glass ,instead of being completely hollow door? Car makers spend massive money on RnD and tech on rain sensing wipers yet they cheap out on an a couple cable leads on HU? Who the hell dont know its raining when they driving? The most popular thing to do IN a vehicle is listen to the stereo but its the least technological.
On the note about wire sizes, the difference between home and vehicle is voltage. Home runs 120v/230v depending on the country. Vehicle runs 12v (technically 14v). To get the same power (watts) down a line, the one with lower voltage will run a higher amperage and need a larger cable. 10amps down a 120v line is 1200w. 10amps down a 12v line is 120w. So to run an 800w system at home, it can go down a small household wire. But on a 12v system the wire will need to be much larger diameter.
Power lines along the road run tens of thousands of volts in order to keep cable size down (size, weight and cost). They run into a step down transformer near the street to bring it down to household voltage.
It's the same really with the RCA's... Could run thin ones to save space but over 5 metres, audio quality will be bad, especially on the bass end.
Optical/Toslink cables would make a lot more sense for car audio. Much less space, lighter and no degradation over that distance. Also no interference. Have had to route power cables and RCA's in non optimal ways many times just to avoid interference. Plus they can run all channels (rl, rr, fl, fr, sub) all down one tiny cable. They really missed a trick with optical
Wild ass rant 😂
@mdutchy2582 dc vs ac. Your car uses dc current which requires thicker Guage wiring to carry higher currents. Other thing is your house won't have things like road noise or engine noise that it needs to cancel out and be louder than. You also are on the move so if you want to play louder than what others want to hear most of the time you won't be near them long enough to disturb them as much as you would your neighbors while being stationary and no wind noise for them to down your music or
Someone need to make a battery terminal block with a built-in fuse.
New cars already have them. They even have a BMS (Battery management system). Now you have to recalibrate your BMS after changing your battery in your vehicle or adding an additional load like aftermarket electronics.
@@JakkiPi or if it's a Ford just disable it.
The show sponsor, KnuKoncepts, has one. The KonFUSED block has two fuses built in. Not perfect, but its an option.
Are there people that did not understood this?
🙈
I could have sworn in school they said 12.1"
Regardless of the value you have read, or been taught, if you listen in the video you'll learn why it's not the value that is most important
It is very important youre just stating a bunch of personal experiences not actual facts or tests. If youve ever completed a real amp draw test youd know its important.@CarAudioFabrication
Cheap aluminum wire
Wrong. It's silver tinned OFC. Superior to normal OFC as it has marine grade moisture resistance. But people that have never seen actually good car audio wire always get confused so happy to help you learn. 👍