You videos are great, Robert. Thanks. I moved my exhaust cam today while replacing the timing belt on a Volvo 5 cyl. A tech at IPD told me to remove the plugs, turn the crank till crank marks lined up, then turn the cam pulleys back to proper alignment, but he never mentioned this tool. The IPD pulley locking tool would have really helped me.
I just did the timing belt on my 06 XC70 . Man am I glad I did. Being the second owner I first check the Volvo maintenance book for the timing belt service and the 60 K miles service was signed off on by a Volvo dealer. Dealer lied, the timing belt was never changed. I checked the belt and the manufacture date was 05 05 . The tensioner pulley when engine cold was in the hot position , the belt was streached about 4 mm in length and the inside of the belt was showing thread material. Both the tensioner and idler pullies had rust on them front and back. Lesson for everyone. When in doubt about a timing belt job , check it yourself and get it done or watch someone do it. But I did tug on the plastic clip wire brace attached to the side of the motor cross bar. Yes I need to fix that check engine light on probibly due to no reading from the coolant overflow bottle.
I rechecked the maintenance manual that came new from volvo. It recommends 120K miles . I guess we are both wrong unless I missed it somewhere in the book. Anyway I am glad I got that belt and such changed because the tensioner and roller pulley both had burn marks and did not turn very easy at all.
Good video, just bought a xc70 as a winter beater from old people and they never did the timing belt in 178.000 miles and is original from 2004!! Dude the tooth of the belt are all eat up and the belt have cracks everywhere I am changing it next weekend with water pump and tensioner
Hey Robert! So I found an answer to the adjustment bolt question, I just set up my 06 S60 2.5T w/ dual VVT hubs and it run perfectly with this method. Once you lock the cams in the correct position, and the crank is lined up on the timing mark, follow these procedures: 1. Loosen (3) 10mm bolts that hold the toothed ring to the hub. 2. Rotate so the bolts are in the rearmost portion of the slots. Snug (1) bolt on each hub. 3. Install hubs on camshafts, torque to 88 lb/ft. (It doesn't matter position, new hubs and gears don't come with timing marks anyways). 4. Rotate each hub to its forward most position (clockwise) 5. Install timing belt and tension. Ensure that each hubs remains as forward as possible. If you have to rotate a hub back slightly to make it line up with the belt that is fine. 6. Loosen the (1) 10mm bolt that is snug on each hub. 7. Rotate, either with a hub tool or large pair of pliers, each hub to its forward most position. 8. Ensuring that each hub remains at it's forward most position, tighten (3) 10mm bolts on each hub. 9. Locate the reference marks on the timing cover. Scribe or paint mark new timing marks on the ring gear. 10. Remove cam lock tool and rotate crank (2) full revolutions. Ensure that the new timing marks line back up. Hopefully this helps some people out!I If you do this procedure, the tension throughout should be even and the hubs will be in the correct position. I spent about 2 months researching how to do this, so enjoy!
It's a terrible system.I did a 99v70 this spring and bought a cam lock that I could not get on .And that left cam was very hard to line up because you can't see it straight on.The cover marks are to far away from the cam.I wound up one tooth off when I started the motor and had a code.For a guy with huge hands it was a pain to keep jamming my hands down the front of the motor and getting the water pump screws in and out.But next time I will buy the cam lock you have.Thanks for the video Robert.
I've never used the front tool.i either lock the crank or if the crank pulley bolt comes off w the impact on it's own I remove the crank pulley and expose the belt first off.( Car jacked up wheel off) then I do whatever work I gotta do then use a piece of foam to keep the belt tight on the bottom of crank.( Wedge it in to keep pressure so belt can't slip from teeth.then I run belt around sprockets and go down to tensioner and slip it on w it in slack position.tgen release tensioner rotate engine twice then put covers back on.i personally haven't had a problem rotating my vvt sprocket into position .maybe it's because I learned to use little vise grips to pinch the belt to the sprocket....
I have a 2000 Volvo s70 se. it has a naturally aspirated 2.4l engine. I keep getting a code for the cvvt solenoid. I only have solenoid on the intake of my car. None of the solenoids I can find have the right connector. Mine has the connector coming right off the end of the solenoid, and the ones online have it on the side of the solenoid facing the front of the engine. I replaced mine with one I found at a junkyard and the code appears after a much longer drive time now so I’m confident this is the issue but I need help finding the right part.
Hey Robert!! I thank you deeply for your videos. I recently blew out the front cam seal on my 02 Volvo v70 XC AWD due to the pcv system being neglected. Not by me. Just happened to be the same weekend I was going to do all that... Anyways, a couple days after, I took a 450 mile drive. Harry the Volvo seemed to run great except a little hungry for gas. Also the check engine light came on shortly after I arrived at my destination. There code is 643 or P0016. I know what I have to do, but I'm unclear how to turn the cam pulleys after locking the rear cams. Do I only set the marks on the crank? And then manually turn the cam pulleys to their marks on the cover? And do I only go clockwise or do I need to also go counterclockwise?
Are there Robert quick question can I use an m66 manual 6-speed transmission from a front wheel S40 T5 can I use that on my 97 850r wagon and convert that into a manual as my wagon is an automatic
Robert, i hope you have time to answer this for me: i made sure the cam sprockets were aligned with the timing belt cover WHILE THE BELT WAS ON. I did not see the marks on the crank sprocket, which are mentioned in another video - so the crank sprocket is still in the position it was in when i used the timing belt to align the sprockets. Is my engine in time as long as the crank sprocket is oriented the same way it was when the belt was on to align the cam hubs? btw, i ordered your cam seal tool and feel fortunate to have found it in stock, this is not a job i want to do twice. thanks for your videos, they are a great help.
Robert, I like that blue tool and want one. Yes I did my timing belt. Yes I now have a P0016 error within 10 miles of changing the belt. I suspect the exhaust cam is off by 1 tooth. I want to buy one of those tools .
I sent IPD a request for your tool and mentioned your video here with date of published and IPD said it fits the 93 to 98 P80 model engines. The only other thing I can think of that causes a P0018 error code is a bad VVT , bad sensor , or maybe a wire not making good contact. The motor sounds good with zero noticed power loss. I am sure IPD will find and sell me a correct Cam locking tool .
I have cam locking tools that will be ordered monday from IPD, FCP, or Swedish car parts. I will check the back of the cam to see if they are aligned . If not a back cam tool will be ordered. Lesson learned.
We replaced the head on our xc70 and swapped cam shafts right into new head, can I just line up marks for timing? I found marks lined everything up but no compression.
I have 3 and NEVER use them. Send me a message and I'll ship one to you. However, they are designed to be used with the N engines. Engines in the white block Volvo's built between '92 - '98.
Robert, I'm thinking about purchasing a 2008 Volvo S60 T5 FWD with 77, 467 miles, my question is once I have the motor in proper and correct timing configuration position does the timing belt comes with lines marking indications to indicate the correct installation for the upper front, back and lower sprocket or do I just install it like any other ordinary timing belt, that is making sure prior that it's still in the correct timing positions...TIA...also at mileage should the timing belt be rehanged once I done it the first time...once again TIA
For safety sake, if doing only the belt, IPD type tool is fine. Beyond that use it AND the rear locking too. Then, if you are taking the VVT hubs/Gears off ... while exposed score a mark on the fron surface of the Cam and just above it on the cam cover ... forever placing dead bang perfect timing marks on the cams for the future, just in case. Volvo should have done that in the first place, Lazy Swedes. Crank and cams marked in the steel.
I have a 2011 s40 t5 and was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on getting more power out of it plan on getting a tune but was wanting to wite tell I got all the supporting mods
I have a 96 Volvo 850 with a 2.4 liter engine in it the head was checked at a machine shop when the valve cover was put back on the cams get to a certain place and they won't turn their like they're in a bind but if you loosen the bolts up the cam will loosen up and turn freely any suggestions on that
Hi this is Mark again with the 96 Volvo 2.4 l hey I would like to talk to you over the phone if that is possible my number is 404-914-2063 I'm looking for the metal pipe that is supposed to mount to the top of the valve cover I'm trying to figure out where that pipe is leading down to this is a non EGR engine if you would please give me a call at your earliest convenience I live in Atlanta Georgia I would appreciate it very much
Hi Robert, I posted on one of your videos before but I was hoping for some more advice. I've got a 1997 850 GLT with a crank but no start issue. It will start cold every time, after that it is a toss up, usually it just keeps cranking. I have scanned the engine and got no codes. Brand new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump filter, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plugs. My fuel pressure is steady at around 40 PSI and the car has no issues while running. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
Had same problem,it was a faulty fuel injector.would always cold star,but after warm up,no restart,could wait 2 or 3 hours then it might start as long as it was at a cold start temp and stay running until you shut it off,then all over again, if you shut it off will warmed up or hot,allot of times you'll get a engine misfire code (OBD2 scanner)for (cylinder#)and that said cylinder would be your faulty injector at said cylinder.
Hi Roberto thank you forma the vídeos but y ned help with 2005 s60 volvo some body tale off TVE head and now i ned to fue by mi self i dont. Hace marks no tool aligment what i hace toó due
Hi I have a Volvo s60 t5 automatic and the engine vibrates up to 850 rpm then the vibration disappear. I have scanned the car and performed oil change filter ETM and spark plugs, . but the vibration remain. Forgot to mention the vibration persists, even though neutral P or drive. vibration feels all over the car. HELP
Robert DIY Thanks next week I'll start going through the engine mounts, If the problem persists, maybe I'll upload a video if you want to take part to analyze
ipd states this tool is for non vvt cars. this tool is incorrect for this application. the vvt hub can be on the mark but the camshaft can still move enough to be out of time and throw codes
Robert DIY and if one of the cams is on a lobe it could move once the belt has released tension. because the tool is only holding the vvt hub not the camshaft itself. Hence why ipd the maker of the tool specifies why this tool is for non vvt hub cars.
@@christopherpaden7161 yes... but the cams can rotate still on the vvt even with the locking tool in place. Go to the other end of cam and you can turn it. Thats how they are vvt when the car is running. So lock both ends of cam to be safe
Hopefully a quick question for you concerning my 2000 V70XC. I need to do the water pump (and will do all other timing belt components as well). I don't want to mess with the timing on the engine at all. Because I'm only doing the belt/pump/etc, and NOT screwing with the VVT hub, cams, or anything... can I get away with just locking the front cam gears with a tool? IPD states this tool doesn't work with VVT engines, and I've had a few people write me up the procedure to reset VVT timing, but I'm sort of onboard with you... If I put in the cam locker, take off belt, put on belt... nothing should need to be re-timed right? No other weird procedures? Have you done this on VVT engines no issue?
Hello everyone! I have a 2005 volvo s80 2.5T AWD. Im trying to do a cylinder head rebuild since my timing belt broke. Took sometime but i got it done. I was gonna go ahead and put it back on the block but i am having a hard time finding the torque specifications (i know the sequence). I've looked online but i cant seem to find it. I want to get a Haynes manual but the comments on amazon say that none of them cover volvos that were sold in the US. If someone has this info or can point me to where i can find it i would be infinitely grateful as i have been out of a vehicle for almost a month now and could not afford to buy another or have it repaired by shop. I am so close to finishing i just want to get the torque specs correct. Thank you for any help!!!
if any one needs parts for a 1999 volvo v70 in the UK please give me a message i have a whole car that sadly i cant do nothing with to fixed the stripped water pump holes
you can get a thread insert made by Helicoil here: www.amazon.com/8milelake-Stripped-Thread-Rethread-Helicoil/dp/B0126UTM7I/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1544637274&sr=1-5&keywords=thread+inserts+for+metal
You videos are great, Robert. Thanks. I moved my exhaust cam today while replacing the timing belt on a Volvo 5 cyl. A tech at IPD told me to remove the plugs, turn the crank till crank marks lined up, then turn the cam pulleys back to proper alignment, but he never mentioned this tool. The IPD pulley locking tool would have really helped me.
They claim that tool is only for the early P80 cars, '93 - '98.
If the crank is on the mark, you can move the cams anywhere you need to.
@@RobertDIY - Thank you for all of your time and information .
Is there a such thing as a kit that will convert this to a chain ?? .
I just did the timing belt on my 06 XC70 . Man am I glad I did. Being the second owner I first check the Volvo maintenance book for the timing belt service and the 60 K miles service was signed off on by a Volvo dealer. Dealer lied, the timing belt was never changed. I checked the belt and the manufacture date was 05 05 . The tensioner pulley when engine cold was in the hot position , the belt was streached about 4 mm in length and the inside of the belt was showing thread material. Both the tensioner and idler pullies had rust on them front and back. Lesson for everyone. When in doubt about a timing belt job , check it yourself and get it done or watch someone do it. But I did tug on the plastic clip wire brace attached to the side of the motor cross bar. Yes I need to fix that check engine light on probibly due to no reading from the coolant overflow bottle.
I don't think those belts are due for 10 years or 105,000 miles.
I rechecked the maintenance manual that came new from volvo. It recommends 120K miles . I guess we are both wrong unless I missed it somewhere in the book. Anyway I am glad I got that belt and such changed because the tensioner and roller pulley both had burn marks and did not turn very easy at all.
That's why I tell people to check the owners manual.
Good video, just bought a xc70 as a winter beater from old people and they never did the timing belt in 178.000 miles and is original from 2004!! Dude the tooth of the belt are all eat up and the belt have cracks everywhere
I am changing it next weekend with water pump and tensioner
I sure hope you don't start it again???
Robert DIY thank god I got a second car 😂🙏
Hey Robert! So I found an answer to the adjustment bolt question, I just set up my 06 S60 2.5T w/ dual VVT hubs and it run perfectly with this method. Once you lock the cams in the correct position, and the crank is lined up on the timing mark, follow these procedures:
1. Loosen (3) 10mm bolts that hold the toothed ring to the hub.
2. Rotate so the bolts are in the rearmost portion of the slots. Snug (1) bolt on each hub.
3. Install hubs on camshafts, torque to 88 lb/ft. (It doesn't matter position, new hubs and gears don't come with timing marks anyways).
4. Rotate each hub to its forward most position (clockwise)
5. Install timing belt and tension. Ensure that each hubs remains as forward as possible. If you have to rotate a hub back slightly to make it line up with the belt that is fine.
6. Loosen the (1) 10mm bolt that is snug on each hub.
7. Rotate, either with a hub tool or large pair of pliers, each hub to its forward most position.
8. Ensuring that each hub remains at it's forward most position, tighten (3) 10mm bolts on each hub.
9. Locate the reference marks on the timing cover. Scribe or paint mark new timing marks on the ring gear.
10. Remove cam lock tool and rotate crank (2) full revolutions. Ensure that the new timing marks line back up.
Hopefully this helps some people out!I If you do this procedure, the tension throughout should be even and the hubs will be in the correct position. I spent about 2 months researching how to do this, so enjoy!
Thanks for sharing, however, the crank is NOT TDC.
ruclips.net/video/0H5cgRYCMQg/видео.html
@@RobertDIY Yes, sorry I meant timing mark lined up on the oil pump not TDC! I fixed it in my initial comment. Thanks!
Your Videos are awesome and have helped us so much over the years. 2001 s60 2.4t 329,000 miles
nice
It's a terrible system.I did a 99v70 this spring and bought a cam lock that I could not get on .And that left cam was very hard to line up because you can't see it straight on.The cover marks are to far away from the cam.I wound up one tooth off when I started the motor and had a code.For a guy with huge hands it was a pain to keep jamming my hands down the front of the motor and getting the water pump screws in and out.But next time I will buy the cam lock you have.Thanks for the video Robert.
+Peter Will it can be a pain.
Almost ready to fix my s80 t6 :)
Ok
I've never used the front tool.i either lock the crank or if the crank pulley bolt comes off w the impact on it's own I remove the crank pulley and expose the belt first off.( Car jacked up wheel off) then I do whatever work I gotta do then use a piece of foam to keep the belt tight on the bottom of crank.( Wedge it in to keep pressure so belt can't slip from teeth.then I run belt around sprockets and go down to tensioner and slip it on w it in slack position.tgen release tensioner rotate engine twice then put covers back on.i personally haven't had a problem rotating my vvt sprocket into position .maybe it's because I learned to use little vise grips to pinch the belt to the sprocket....
Thanks for sharing good tips.
I have a 2000 Volvo s70 se. it has a naturally aspirated 2.4l engine. I keep getting a code for the cvvt solenoid. I only have solenoid on the intake of my car. None of the solenoids I can find have the right connector. Mine has the connector coming right off the end of the solenoid, and the ones online have it on the side of the solenoid facing the front of the engine. I replaced mine with one I found at a junkyard and the code appears after a much longer drive time now so I’m confident this is the issue but I need help finding the right part.
The connector is not the same either
Where are you looking for the part?
thanks
You are welcome
How do you adjust the timing on the lines ??
You just rotate the hubs in your hands without doing anything before ??
Huh? What kind of car are you working on?
hey robert i took apart my camshaft vvt sprockets (ford kuga/escape, 2.5t) now i dont know how to put them back properly
ruclips.net/video/0H5cgRYCMQg/видео.html
Hey Robert!! I thank you deeply for your videos. I recently blew out the front cam seal on my 02 Volvo v70 XC AWD due to the pcv system being neglected. Not by me. Just happened to be the same weekend I was going to do all that... Anyways, a couple days after, I took a 450 mile drive. Harry the Volvo seemed to run great except a little hungry for gas. Also the check engine light came on shortly after I arrived at my destination. There code is 643 or P0016. I know what I have to do, but I'm unclear how to turn the cam pulleys after locking the rear cams. Do I only set the marks on the crank? And then manually turn the cam pulleys to their marks on the cover? And do I only go clockwise or do I need to also go counterclockwise?
ruclips.net/video/hjZFY-1x1Xk/видео.html
call me if you'd like.
Are there Robert quick question can I use an m66 manual 6-speed transmission from a front wheel S40 T5 can I use that on my 97 850r wagon and convert that into a manual as my wagon is an automatic
Yes
Is there a such thing as a kit that will convert this over to a chain ??.
Yes, a check book and buying a different model.
Robert, i hope you have time to answer this for me: i made sure the cam sprockets were aligned with the timing belt cover WHILE THE BELT WAS ON. I did not see the marks on the crank sprocket, which are mentioned in another video - so the crank sprocket is still in the position it was in when i used the timing belt to align the sprockets. Is my engine in time as long as the crank sprocket is oriented the same way it was when the belt was on to align the cam hubs? btw, i ordered your cam seal tool and feel fortunate to have found it in stock, this is not a job i want to do twice. thanks for your videos, they are a great help.
You really should find the crank mark. Also, rotate the engine around before you try to start it.
Robert, I like that blue tool and want one. Yes I did my timing belt. Yes I now have a P0016 error within 10 miles of changing the belt. I suspect the exhaust cam is off by 1 tooth. I want to buy one of those tools .
I can sell you one. However, iPd claims they don't fit this vehicle.
I sent IPD a request for your tool and mentioned your video here with date of published and IPD said it fits the 93 to 98 P80 model engines. The only other thing I can think of that causes a P0018 error code is a bad VVT , bad sensor , or maybe a wire not making good contact. The motor sounds good with zero noticed power loss. I am sure IPD will find and sell me a correct Cam locking tool .
ruclips.net/video/0eSuvM6Bl7Y/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/3CTNiKlgdFA/видео.html
I have cam locking tools that will be ordered monday from IPD, FCP, or Swedish car parts. I will check the back of the cam to see if they are aligned . If not a back cam tool will be ordered. Lesson learned.
We replaced the head on our xc70 and swapped cam shafts right into new head, can I just line up marks for timing? I found marks lined everything up but no compression.
If the crank is lined up before you installed the cam cover.
@@RobertDIY Ok definitely was not...do you think I ruined anything turnin it over?
@@RobertDIY I cant thank you enough for your help, id be totally sol without you.
Does anyone have a part number or know where to buy this cam locking tool?
I have 3 and NEVER use them. Send me a message and I'll ship one to you. However, they are designed to be used with the N engines. Engines in the white block Volvo's built between '92 - '98.
Robert,
I'm thinking about purchasing a 2008 Volvo S60 T5 FWD with 77, 467 miles, my question is once I have the motor in proper and correct timing configuration position does the timing belt comes with lines marking indications to indicate the correct installation for the upper front, back and lower sprocket or do I just install it like any other ordinary timing belt, that is making sure prior that it's still in the correct timing positions...TIA...also at mileage should the timing belt be rehanged once I done it the first time...once again TIA
Huh? Why are we talking about maintenance on a car that you don't own?
ruclips.net/video/YpOYTVpzzic/видео.html
volvo.custhelp.com/app/homeV3
Owners manual has the maintenance schedule.
For safety sake, if doing only the belt, IPD type tool is fine. Beyond that use it AND the rear locking too. Then, if you are taking the VVT hubs/Gears off ... while exposed score a mark on the fron surface of the Cam and just above it on the cam cover ... forever placing dead bang perfect timing marks on the cams for the future, just in case. Volvo should have done that in the first place, Lazy Swedes. Crank and cams marked in the steel.
Thanks for sharing.
I have a 2011 s40 t5 and was wondering if anyone could give me some tips on getting more power out of it plan on getting a tune but was wanting to wite tell I got all the supporting mods
You should check with your tuner.
I have a 96 Volvo 850 with a 2.4 liter engine in it the head was checked at a machine shop when the valve cover was put back on the cams get to a certain place and they won't turn their like they're in a bind but if you loosen the bolts up the cam will loosen up and turn freely any suggestions on that
Is the crank on its mark?
@@RobertDIY the crank is on
Hi this is Mark again with the 96 Volvo 2.4 l hey I would like to talk to you over the phone if that is possible my number is 404-914-2063 I'm looking for the metal pipe that is supposed to mount to the top of the valve cover I'm trying to figure out where that pipe is leading down to this is a non EGR engine if you would please give me a call at your earliest convenience I live in Atlanta Georgia I would appreciate it very much
Did you use assembly lube on the cams and head journals?
You need to go to my website and call me.
Hi Robert, I posted on one of your videos before but I was hoping for some more advice.
I've got a 1997 850 GLT with a crank but no start issue. It will start cold every time, after that it is a toss up, usually it just keeps cranking. I have scanned the engine and got no codes. Brand new fuel pump, fuel pump relay, fuel pump filter, distributor cap and rotor, and spark plugs. My fuel pressure is steady at around 40 PSI and the car has no issues while running. Any advice would be appreciated.
Thank you!
Replace the ECT.
ruclips.net/video/8xIi3_n5vsQ/видео.html
I'm not getting that code, or any codes. Is it still likely to be causing that issue?
Had same problem,it was a faulty fuel injector.would always cold star,but after warm up,no restart,could wait 2 or 3 hours then it might start as long as it was at a cold start temp and stay running until you shut it off,then all over again, if you shut it off will warmed up or hot,allot of times you'll get a engine misfire code (OBD2 scanner)for (cylinder#)and that said cylinder would be your faulty injector at said cylinder.
How can i make vvt not work on my engine? Infiniti g35 vq35de engine. I have high lift cams and need the timing unable to adj on its own.
Probably unplug the solenoid.
I thought about that but my guess is it would go into limp mode? Or would it just get a light on the dash and no limp mode?
Hi Roberto thank you forma the vídeos but y ned help with 2005 s60 volvo some body tale off TVE head and now i ned to fue by mi self i dont. Hace marks no tool aligment what i hace toó due
+Arturo Suarez get the tool.
Hi I have a Volvo s60 t5 automatic and the engine vibrates up to 850 rpm then the vibration disappear. I have scanned the car and performed oil change filter ETM and spark plugs, . but the vibration remain. Forgot to mention the vibration persists, even though neutral P or drive. vibration feels all over the car. HELP
Probably a bad engine mount.
Robert DIY Thanks next week I'll start going through the engine mounts, If the problem persists, maybe I'll upload a video if you want to take part to analyze
ok
ipd states this tool is for non vvt cars. this tool is incorrect for this application. the vvt hub can be on the mark but the camshaft can still move enough to be out of time and throw codes
LOL, if you pull the belt with the cams locked, and put the belt back on, nothing will be out of time.
Robert DIY and if one of the cams is on a lobe it could move once the belt has released tension. because the tool is only holding the vvt hub not the camshaft itself. Hence why ipd the maker of the tool specifies why this tool is for non vvt hub cars.
So basically you are saying that you don't understand???
@@maxmiddleton7427 The tool hooks on the cam gear, just like the belt does......
@@christopherpaden7161 yes... but the cams can rotate still on the vvt even with the locking tool in place. Go to the other end of cam and you can turn it. Thats how they are vvt when the car is running. So lock both ends of cam to be safe
Hopefully a quick question for you concerning my 2000 V70XC. I need to do the water pump (and will do all other timing belt components as well).
I don't want to mess with the timing on the engine at all. Because I'm only doing the belt/pump/etc, and NOT screwing with the VVT hub, cams, or anything... can I get away with just locking the front cam gears with a tool? IPD states this tool doesn't work with VVT engines, and I've had a few people write me up the procedure to reset VVT timing, but I'm sort of onboard with you...
If I put in the cam locker, take off belt, put on belt... nothing should need to be re-timed right? No other weird procedures? Have you done this on VVT engines no issue?
I never use a locking tool. Just put the crank on it's mark, replace the parts, put the belt back on with the cams on the marks.
ruclips.net/video/YpOYTVpzzic/видео.html
Hello everyone! I have a 2005 volvo s80 2.5T AWD. Im trying to do a cylinder head rebuild since my timing belt broke. Took sometime but i got it done. I was gonna go ahead and put it back on the block but i am having a hard time finding the torque specifications (i know the sequence). I've looked online but i cant seem to find it. I want to get a Haynes manual but the comments on amazon say that none of them cover volvos that were sold in the US. If someone has this info or can point me to where i can find it i would be infinitely grateful as i have been out of a vehicle for almost a month now and could not afford to buy another or have it repaired by shop. I am so close to finishing i just want to get the torque specs correct. Thank you for any help!!!
There should be a sheet that came with the head gasket with the torque specs.
ruclips.net/video/gt9w-ZSxs9I/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/v6TL52R81V0/видео.html
if any one needs parts for a 1999 volvo v70 in the UK please give me a message i have a whole car that sadly i cant do nothing with to fixed the stripped water pump holes
Thanks for sharing.
sorry robert im still hoping i can get it on the road again
you can get a thread insert made by Helicoil here:
www.amazon.com/8milelake-Stripped-Thread-Rethread-Helicoil/dp/B0126UTM7I/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1544637274&sr=1-5&keywords=thread+inserts+for+metal
I can see why you never used that cam locking tool! Lol.
Lol, It is awkward.
😂
😒
Less of the lecture. More of the instruction
This is NOT an instructional video dude.