My dad had a 1965 model Craftsman he traded it in for a 1995 new one in 1995 Arians the 65 was left out side but ran poorly do poor maintenance but the body was a beast and wish we keep it.
Please, drop the drag bar. The reason you needed a day off the next day is because your fighting the tiller instead of just letting it do it's job with the drag bar down.
Great video, I'm getting one tomorrow and never used one considering what i do for a living, but the jobs I have coming I'm sure gone learn! lol. Hey pops wouldn't let me use his so i was putted out during those times but im making up for it lol!
Lower that rear drag bar into the soil! It will take the stress off your arms...I keep mine at least on the 1/2 way down setting. Yours looks like it's on the highest setting and not providing any resistance to the pulling action. I have a 1996 Yard Machine model - same basic machine - starts after 2 or 3 pulls after all these years. Nice vid!
You made the same mistake my neighbor did when he borrowed ours 40 years ago! Lower the "Drag Bar" and you'll discover how stable the tiller becomes. Neighbor stated it wore him out and was all over the place 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I bought mine in 2006 and all I ever had to do is rebuild the carb every 6 or 7 years. Other than than it served me all the way to today May 2022. It finally died without hope of recovery. I'm going down to buy another craftsman and hope I get the same number of years out of the new one.
Thank you for the video... Any idea how to adjust the time control? When I release the handle the times continue to rotate. The cable appears intact and the spring appears to be working fine.
I have the same exact model. 20+ yrs. Starts 1st pull ever time. Only issue leaky gas tank. Wash after every use. Keep in a shed. Works great. Year after yr
All you need is time running a tiller and they are really easier than a lawn mower. I have a 1950 sears 5HP front tine that I can run with one hand. It's all about balance just like a floor buffer/scrubber.
Same, I have an old yellow one, but not sure the date, 70's I think. Thing runs like a champ. I just replaced a axel holder inside the gear box between the tines, 2 years ago. But this is a giant steel machine that will run forever.
Are you sure you aren't suppose to take the wheels of I take mine off. Went to home depot and they also said that the wheels are onky for transport and that they will either flip up or can be removed for usage. Perhaps the ones I've used and own are different.
It does look pretty cool, and I'm finding that leaving it on has led to me using it for different stuff. I will sometimes load supplies into it if I'm working somewhere on the property instead of hooking up a cart. I've also recently used it with some ramps to fill some raised beds. It worked pretty good!
Farpoint Farms hay thats awsome!! Id really love to invest in one for my X500 but John Deeres version is $1,000 so I just cant justify that....my tractor also dose get used to mow so the deck comes on and off meaning the acoop would need to come on and off and it probably wouldnt get used lime yours. i like that one you have I wish one of THAT model could fit my tractor
you wouldn't be so worn out if you knew how to use that tiller. You're definitely doing it the wrong way. For starters, use the drag bar to allow the machine to do the work. Do light skim passes on virgin ground to eliminate dress on user and machine.
I have the exact same tiller, the only problem with mine is the poor design of the handle bars.. (cheep thin metal materials, and lousy welds) have had it 10 years, have had to replace the handle bar assembly 6 times.. currently broken again.. at an average of $85 each , I could have bought a rear tine tiller... Please if you have any suggestions for obtaining a stronger, heavier duty handlebar please let me know. .
Find a welder in your area who's not busy and let him see the trashed handle bars. He should be able to untrash them or make a basic replacement with heavier gauge off-cuts for that price.
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just got a 26" 6hp
Good tillers!
Thanks for the video,just bought a tiller and needed info on the depth bar placement
Glad I could help!
Can you pull the belt cover off?I would like to see how the belts run
Check my channel I have a video on belt replacement.
I really appreciate your post. Thank you for sharing.
Our identical one just broke after 20 years. The housing cracked open. Currently looking for parts. It worked great!
My dad had a 1965 model Craftsman he traded it in for a 1995 new one in 1995 Arians the 65 was left out side but ran poorly do poor maintenance but the body was a beast and wish we keep it.
This one is still going strong in 2023!
Use your drag bar! No wonder you had to take a day off after tilling.
Thanks for the video and how to use it, I just found a free one being thrown out with the trash so fingers crossed not much wrong with it
Please, drop the drag bar. The reason you needed a day off the next day is because your fighting the tiller instead of just letting it do it's job with the drag bar down.
Do you know how many cc’s this unit has? Would it be effective for use with clay soil?
I don't know the CC's but I have used it in hard packed red clay and it did the job!
Depth Stake stops the bucking of the tiller. You should lower it to at least 2" below the ground level if it's sitting flat on concrete.
thanks for sharing that tip
Thank you for sharing.
Mine has a tendency to lean right. Is that normal for it to lean either way??? Thanx Phil G
Mine does lean as well- I think that is normal
Thanx
@@FarpointFarms
Great video, I'm getting one tomorrow and never used one considering what i do for a living, but the jobs I have coming I'm sure gone learn! lol. Hey pops wouldn't let me use his so i was putted out during those times but im making up for it lol!
You will love it!
I miss your GT6000... 😿
Hope your Neighbor is taking good care of it!
Take care as always,
🤓 -Thomas
Port Orchard, Washington
I just picked up a DGT6000 to play with!
@@FarpointFarms hope to see a video of it real soon!
Lower that rear drag bar into the soil! It will take the stress off your arms...I keep mine at least on the 1/2 way down setting. Yours looks like it's on the highest setting and not providing any resistance to the pulling action. I have a 1996 Yard Machine model - same basic machine - starts after 2 or 3 pulls after all these years. Nice vid!
Good point! I forgot to adjust it down when I filmed this, but it does help take some of the work off your shoulders.
@@FarpointFarms I figured as much - you certainly get a good workout either way!
You made the same mistake my neighbor did when he borrowed ours 40 years ago! Lower the "Drag Bar" and you'll discover how stable the tiller becomes. Neighbor stated it wore him out and was all over the place 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Yup a workout is no joke, I bought and still have it in ‘00-‘01, changed the carburetor once probably didn’t need to but did anyway
I bought mine in 2006 and all I ever had to do is rebuild the carb every 6 or 7 years. Other than than it served me all the way to today May 2022. It finally died without hope of recovery. I'm going down to buy another craftsman and hope I get the same number of years out of the new one.
what a shame that it just went out on you, I hope you can get the same results with your new one.
Thank you for the video... Any idea how to adjust the time control? When I release the handle the times continue to rotate. The cable appears intact and the spring appears to be working fine.
I believe it is the cable- over time they can stretch out. I had to replace mine a few years ago because it was doing the same thing
Rear wheels on mine come off by pin easier to till without manually pulling the tiller back.
I have the same exact model. 20+ yrs. Starts 1st pull ever time. Only issue leaky gas tank. Wash after every use. Keep in a shed.
Works great. Year after yr
Ours still works great, maintenance is the key
All you need is time running a tiller and they are really easier than a lawn mower. I have a 1950 sears 5HP front tine that I can run with one hand. It's all about balance just like a floor buffer/scrubber.
Same, I have an old yellow one, but not sure the date, 70's I think. Thing runs like a champ. I just replaced a axel holder inside the gear box between the tines, 2 years ago. But this is a giant steel machine that will run forever.
good for all
Please show how you change belt,s
I did in another video. Check it out.
And remember to use ethanol free gas, good way to gum up the carb using normal car gas
I always use a fuel stabilizer, that way I never have to deal with those issues
The only thing I don’t like about these is the tires.
agreed, they could be better
Are you sure you aren't suppose to take the wheels of I take mine off. Went to home depot and they also said that the wheels are onky for transport and that they will either flip up or can be removed for usage. Perhaps the ones I've used and own are different.
Do you have part# for a new gas tank?
14 yrs old tiller and still running, I won’t changed it
Any idea what size air filter it takes? I need to replace mine and I have no idea.
Do you know what part number, an overhaul parts kit for your carb would be? Or what a replacement carb would be?
I don't but many times all you need to do is disassemble and clean the carb. They rarely wear out all together.
Repairclinic.com usually can help you with what you need for a variety of repairs.
love the way you leave the loader on the GT all the time now!! looks cool and saves time!
It does look pretty cool, and I'm finding that leaving it on has led to me using it for different stuff. I will sometimes load supplies into it if I'm working somewhere on the property instead of hooking up a cart. I've also recently used it with some ramps to fill some raised beds. It worked pretty good!
Farpoint Farms hay thats awsome!! Id really love to invest in one for my X500 but John Deeres version is $1,000 so I just cant justify that....my tractor also dose get used to mow so the deck comes on and off meaning the acoop would need to come on and off and it probably wouldnt get used lime yours. i like that one you have I wish one of THAT model could fit my tractor
I take the wheels off of mine and adjust the depth bar, take a little pressure off the rear to pull forward. Just let er eat...
I may give that a shot next time I till.
@@FarpointFarms Wheels off, easier and better.
What if the engine seems to be locked up but it turns backwards
Check the gears inside the middle casing between the tines.
Doe anyone know where to get a fuel tank for this tiller?
The engine is a standard Briggs. I'd look for the engine code and search for the tank that way.
did you ever find fuel tank i need the part number mine leaks.
Holy f**ck these are 800$ new canadian almost 900 with tax now
Dang! Hyper inflation really sucks.
you have a part number for the air filter? What oil does it take?
I dont have it for the air filter, but you can use SAE 30 or 10w30 oil in it
How do you keep the Depth Stake from flaring out?. I have the Clovis pin in?
What’s the best place to find parts for this year? I just gotta free one and needs some tlc
with all the suppy chain issues I am not sure.
Still using one like that. Problem now is that ours needs replacement tines, and they're a discontinued part. Looking into DIY options.
I had no idea. Good luck with the search.
Has anyone had any luck finding a new recoil for this ?
Anyone replaced the engine on one of these? I'm looking for a replacement.
If you use the depth bar it will be half the amount of work ... you won't have to keep pulling it back ???
you wouldn't be so worn out if you knew how to use that tiller. You're definitely doing it the wrong way. For starters, use the drag bar to allow the machine to do the work. Do light skim passes on virgin ground to eliminate dress on user and machine.
All of the ones i have used are designed to have the wheels lifted up or removed when in use
in canada that model costs 1000 dollars new.
That's in Canadian currency though (:
I got the bigger 8hp 25" model for $160 used, in Canada too
@@stevensawicki8859 still about $700 give or take, plus 13%HST and whatever environmental charges. Because Canada is dumb...
Un autre qui fait juste flatter le dessus de la terre
I have the exact same tiller, the only problem with mine is the poor design of the handle bars.. (cheep thin metal materials, and lousy welds) have had it 10 years, have had to replace the handle bar assembly 6 times.. currently broken again.. at an average of $85 each , I could have bought a rear tine tiller... Please if you have any suggestions for obtaining a stronger, heavier duty handlebar please let me know. .
Your right about that handle bar, I've had to re-weld mine a few times. Its a cheaply made component, but luckily they do sell a replacement.
Find a welder in your area who's not busy and let him see the trashed handle bars. He should be able to untrash them or make a basic replacement with heavier gauge off-cuts for that price.
Find a junk out rototiller with good strong handles and modify to fit
Sorry, will take my troybilt rear tine tiller over this any time!