Thanks for your review of this knife. Considering it strongly for a while now. I do have to take issue with the insulating claim. I caught that you were only passing on somebody else's comment, but I think somebody is going to get lit up if they think it's going to protect them from shock. If you are touching the lanyard hole, or the exposed tang at the end, you're definitely getting shocked and not all rubber and plastic insulate from electricity equally. I had an insulated screwdriver that I had used many times around 110 with no issues. Used it on my electric fence and it shocked the piss out of me. I'd want to know from Demko about the insulating properties of the handle material before testing it on anything hot. Enjoyed your review.
There are some similarities, however comparing the 2 is basically an apples & oranges situ. Both in price as well as the roles they were designed to fulfill. Obvipusly there is overlap but still..
To me, they seem too different to even compare. One is a clip point bowie-style blade and the other is a drop point style blade. One is geared more towards self defense and rescue while the other is more for camping and survival. Also the SRK comes in wider variety of steels and prices. With the exception of the lousy secure-ex sheath (which pretty much comes with all Cold Steel knives) I'd pick the SRK if I was forced to choose. If Demko made a larger version of the Free Reign in Magnacut steel though, I'd definitely buy it.
Tbh, I would look at blades such as the BRK Bushcrafter in 3V, Reif Knives in 3V, maybe a Busse if you can find a good deal on a used one, Survive! Knives makes some good blades in 3V as well. If you want to stay under $200 then I’d look at an ESEE 6 or Cold Steel SRK in 3V
I wouldn't choose a taiwan srk I'll tell you that , I'd recommend a beaver craft carbon steel knife , they are easy to sharpen in the field and strong , the cold steel srk breaks extremely easy
I absolutely luv my 3V SRK. But, I absolutely luv my USA, Magnacut, FREEREIGN more. The 3V SRK is not a good Knife for Batoning. The FREEREIGN is good for Batoning. The SRK is made more like a WWII Combat Field Knife. The FREEREIGN is made more like a Modern Camp/Field Knife, in my opinion. Another great discussion. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
Cold steel srk Taiwanese knives snap and break easily while battoning soft wood we tested dozens of them ,The American made SRK-C was a great knife the new ones suck and despite what you say they aren't full tang ,take one apart and look . My go to knife for bushcraft is the beaver craft version 1
Just out of curiosity, what makes this knife better than Survival Lilly’s APO-1? They’re both full tang, both have drop points, both have reliable steels that are easy to sharpen, but the APO-1 has a longer blade. I’m asking because I’m saving up for a “main” survival knife and I’m trying to make a solid decision.
Well the APO-1 to me didn’t have as good of ergos, I also enjoy the fully rubberized handle on this one, but the APO is not a bad knife per se. It does have a sharper spine
@AlaskanFrontier1 Compared to AUS10, which is less tough, less stainless, holds an edge less well, and isn't any easier to sharpen? (I own knives in both)? BS. If we were talking AEB-L or 14c28n and not AUS10, maybe. But giving up toughness in a large knife....🤦♂️ AUS10 is fine. It simply is not as good as Magnacut at anything, and is way less tough than 14c28n. To each their own I guess. The 4max scout seems ok. For a knife this general size I guess I'd go to Helle, Joker, or Bark River
@@AlaskanFrontier1 I think magnacut might make a fine bushcraft and even survival knife if the geometry was sufficiently stout. But I agree that it doesn't seem all that ideal for larger survival type designs. Watching it break twice in DBK reviews (1 BRK, 1 Spartan) convinced me. It might make a good filet knife, since it sharpens pretty quick. Tbh I think maybe none of the supersteels are good for a large survival knife. Maybe the Europeans have it right, and AEB-L family steels are the choice if stainlessness?
The second I saw this knife here, I immediately noticed that halfass jimping! This knife isn't for me because not only for striking ferro rods, I also use the spine for scraping fatwood, birch bark, or cedar trunks for tinder. Thank you for sharing this new knife to us.
@@AlaskanFrontier1the rivet that holds the handle at the end. I wish there was a second rivet towards the front. Even a third in the middle would be better.
@@LegionTacticoolCutlery I see what you mean but don’t think it is necessary with this type of handle process. Fallkniven and Cold steel do the same thing and it works
![Run Away - Tzuyu(TWICE) ツウィ 쯔위 [Music Bank] | KBS WORLD TV 240906](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KnHNNyAYiu0/mqdefault.jpg)
I want this knife to come with a 6.0 to 6.5 inch blade.
Agreed
I’m hoping for a version in 3v. That being said, Demko’s Armiger 4 in 80crV2 is phenomenal fixed blade for half the price of the Freereign
There is hope. I think the Arminger is another solid offering too
Thanks for your review of this knife. Considering it strongly for a while now. I do have to take issue with the insulating claim. I caught that you were only passing on somebody else's comment, but I think somebody is going to get lit up if they think it's going to protect them from shock. If you are touching the lanyard hole, or the exposed tang at the end, you're definitely getting shocked and not all rubber and plastic insulate from electricity equally. I had an insulated screwdriver that I had used many times around 110 with no issues. Used it on my electric fence and it shocked the piss out of me. I'd want to know from Demko about the insulating properties of the handle material before testing it on anything hot. Enjoyed your review.
There are some similarities, however comparing the 2 is basically an apples & oranges situ. Both in price as well as the roles they were designed to fulfill. Obvipusly there is overlap but still..
Thanks. Your reviews are always worthwhile.
To me, they seem too different to even compare. One is a clip point bowie-style blade and the other is a drop point style blade. One is geared more towards self defense and rescue while the other is more for camping and survival. Also the SRK comes in wider variety of steels and prices. With the exception of the lousy secure-ex sheath (which pretty much comes with all Cold Steel knives) I'd pick the SRK if I was forced to choose. If Demko made a larger version of the Free Reign in Magnacut steel though, I'd definitely buy it.
The srk is for sale at Midway USA $35 for sk5 and $100 for the 3v compact and $110 for the full size
Yep. I posted about it and already bought one
Yes Sir, snagged one up. The CPM3V is a damn good blade, very sharp out of the box.
I really want to get into bushcraft, and have a budget of around $200-$300 to spend. What should be my buying priorities?
Tbh, I would look at blades such as the BRK Bushcrafter in 3V, Reif Knives in 3V, maybe a Busse if you can find a good deal on a used one, Survive! Knives makes some good blades in 3V as well. If you want to stay under $200 then I’d look at an ESEE 6 or Cold Steel SRK in 3V
@@AlaskanFrontier1 Thanks!
Eafengrow ef137
I wouldn't choose a taiwan srk I'll tell you that , I'd recommend a beaver craft carbon steel knife , they are easy to sharpen in the field and strong , the cold steel srk breaks extremely easy
@@beararms6945 this is in no way true at all. In any way shape or form
I absolutely luv my 3V SRK. But, I absolutely luv my USA, Magnacut, FREEREIGN more. The 3V SRK is not a good Knife for Batoning. The FREEREIGN is good for Batoning. The SRK is made more like a WWII Combat Field Knife. The FREEREIGN is made more like a Modern Camp/Field Knife, in my opinion. Another great discussion. :-) Peace, Stiletto :-)
Cold steel srk Taiwanese knives snap and break easily while battoning soft wood we tested dozens of them ,The American made SRK-C was a great knife the new ones suck and despite what you say they aren't full tang ,take one apart and look . My go to knife for bushcraft is the beaver craft version 1
This is a complete and utter lie.
Just out of curiosity, what makes this knife better than Survival Lilly’s APO-1? They’re both full tang, both have drop points, both have reliable steels that are easy to sharpen, but the APO-1 has a longer blade. I’m asking because I’m saving up for a “main” survival knife and I’m trying to make a solid decision.
Well the APO-1 to me didn’t have as good of ergos, I also enjoy the fully rubberized handle on this one, but the APO is not a bad knife per se. It does have a sharper spine
What happened to your fallkniven a1?
Sold it but will likely get an S1 in the collection
N o longer available in magnacut. I guess that takes it off the shopping list
Unpopular opinion, Magnacut sucks for wilderness applications
@AlaskanFrontier1 Compared to AUS10, which is less tough, less stainless, holds an edge less well, and isn't any easier to sharpen? (I own knives in both)? BS. If we were talking AEB-L or 14c28n and not AUS10, maybe. But giving up toughness in a large knife....🤦♂️
AUS10 is fine. It simply is not as good as Magnacut at anything, and is way less tough than 14c28n. To each their own I guess. The 4max scout seems ok. For a knife this general size I guess I'd go to Helle, Joker, or Bark River
@@andrewfournier8817 this is fair. But I am hoping for a 3V version
@@AlaskanFrontier1 I think magnacut might make a fine bushcraft and even survival knife if the geometry was sufficiently stout. But I agree that it doesn't seem all that ideal for larger survival type designs. Watching it break twice in DBK reviews (1 BRK, 1 Spartan) convinced me. It might make a good filet knife, since it sharpens pretty quick. Tbh I think maybe none of the supersteels are good for a large survival knife. Maybe the Europeans have it right, and AEB-L family steels are the choice if stainlessness?
The second I saw this knife here, I immediately noticed that halfass jimping! This knife isn't for me because not only for striking ferro rods, I also use the spine for scraping fatwood, birch bark, or cedar trunks for tinder. Thank you for sharing this new knife to us.
This is fair, but it doesn’t really hinder the use in a noticeable way
Needs another rivet in my opinion.
What does this mean?
@@AlaskanFrontier1the rivet that holds the handle at the end. I wish there was a second rivet towards the front. Even a third in the middle would be better.
@@LegionTacticoolCutlery I see what you mean but don’t think it is necessary with this type of handle process. Fallkniven and Cold steel do the same thing and it works
The handle is overmoulded and needs no rivets. The tubular rivet is there to serve as a lanyard hole.
Thanks for Sharing
Anytime
I just got the CS SRK 3V Compact for $99 and it's far more of a bushcraft knife
That’s awesome