Thanks for another very useful video. This is a job I will be tackling shortly to clean off the road salt that was thrown over the bike before I laid it up for winter. Hopefully, thanks to this vlog, everything will go as smoothly otherwise the first run next spring will be rear brakeless for 30km to the nearest bike shop 😁 Happy Christmas to you and your family, Best Wishes for 2020.
Thank you for sharing! Doesn't seem to be so hard to do it. In my case after 15,000 Km the rear pads are almost like new ... I was thinking that perhaps I didn't use them so much, but seems like they are design to last longer I guess
For the maintenance of the brakes I use only silicone grease and never common grease, since there is a possibility that due to excess temperature in that area, the grease will melt and contaminate the brakes. Another benefit of silicone grease is that it protects all rubber parts of the brake system. Regards!!!
Thanks for video. I changed my brake pads 500 km ago but it is still rubbing to the disc. I tried to ride without any rear brake and after the ride I touched the disc to check and it was hot. I used the same procedures like you did. This situation is very annoying. I dont know what else I can do.
Thanks Adrian. Your videos were one of the factors that helped me decide to buy the NC based on how easy it was to maintain. Can you remind me again what replacement footpegs you got? I like how they mount lower than the stock pegs.
Related to the rear brake on the NC750.. I'm on my second one now and both have suffered from the rear brake switch stopping working, either staying on or not activating during the winter, presumably due to all the crud that gets in the switch. It seems to be pretty fiddly to adjust but I thought I might know a nice man who has some excellent hints and tips on getting at the little beast! Is there an easy way you know of to get the thing off for checking, cleaning and refitting? Thanks in advance if you do know.
Sorry mate. I haven’t had any problem with my switch (which is located at the foot peddle). You can see me adjust it in this video ruclips.net/video/Ud2e4CUzrpA/видео.html
sippydumdum - both bolts would have had loctite on them but I’ve never bothered renewing it. But what do I know - I’m only a back yard tinkerer. Clean wheels? I live in a part of the world where it hasn’t rained for months !
I forgot to ask what type of grease you use on these jobs? Back in the dim and distant days when I was still alive, Copper grease was used (and a thin smear put on the back of the pad backing material for some reason). Are you using a better alternative ? Silicon grease perhaps ? Best wishes.
I think the "elbow" torque wrench is the only one that would fit, unless you remove the exhaust. I wish you and your wife a Merry Christmas, have a safe one.
What if my rear brakes are squeaking while riding on a slow speed? It squeaks when i'm not braking, just rolling. Can cleaning the pads help, how do you think?
NVK85 - yes clean the pads with brake clean. Then rub the pad on a piece of 120 grit sand paper layer on a flat surface. Then clean with brake clean again. Also clean the disc with brake clean. Then reassemble.
Thanks for that - had mine apart to change pads and would they go back again??? No way, so investigated and found Rubik's spring in top of unit all mangled up and refusing to allow pads to go back in freely! Amazing how 1 thing has stopped me using the bike altogether whilst the great Honda spares machine whirls into gear, hopefully? Even worse, 3 bike Pom is now reduced to 0! - scooter apart awaiting new front fork seals and Shadow 125 away with the wizard hopefully having her carbs made good!! Regards to The Down-Unders!
I'm at the point where I put the 14mm bolt in the front of the caliper. It doesn't thread into the caliper. It just turns. If I lift the caliper off the bike the bolt threads in. The holes are lined up. I don't see what's stopping it from threading in. It's a 2014 NC700X.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I took out the brake pads then the bolt went in & I put the brake pads in after. Somehow the pads were maybe blocking the bolt, I'm not sure.
Christ mate my Honda 500x pads have lasted almost 8k and there's nothing left on them so i guess London stop start and trail braking eats them up in no time at all. Great video mate I'm changing my pads before my second service as its £65 per hour through my Honda dealer
Another very useful video Adrian, happy Christmas to you and Wendy. Thanks for all the interesting content and all the best for 2020. Btw, I eat through pads every 20,000 km! That's a 100km a day commute across London for you (and engine braking isn't very effective on the NCs I find).
Chris Porter - thanks mate appreciate your comments. Yep I can understand the pad wear. We live semi rural, and don’t commute, which accounts for the minimal wear we get on the pads.
The Honda (car) mechanics that I know recommend Sil Glyde for all moving brake components...and avoid setting the slide pins on a dirty floor after you've coated them...YIKES. Also, opening the brake reservoir cap will make pushing the piston in easier. Your video are much appreciated.
hi, I pumped my brakes too much and now the piston is too far out and then when I tried to push it back with my fingers it’s impossible to do that. I tried to use the old brake pad and using a flat head screwdriver to push the piston back but it just won’t budge what’s going on how are you able to just push it back with your fingers?
Does your rear caliper get hot I change my pads and notice heat in the caliper I re did it a second time and the same thing bike stops great but really hot caliper and rotor
No. Should not be hot unless you have just finished doing prolonged braking. Is yours a DCT? If so then check the adjustment on your parking brake as if could be dragging.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff it’s after I use the bike if I don’t hit the back brake no heat at all it’s when I use the brake I notice it the front don’t get hot at all it’s warm
Ok. Next thing to do is remove the calliper from the disc, take out the pads. Then gently squeeze the brake pedal so the piston comes out a little. Then clean around the piston with brake cleaner. Then clean the pads with brake cleaner as well. Then squeeze the piston back in, replace the pads, replace the calliper. Then pump the brake pedal so the pads are in the right place against the disc again.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I redid the job again I was told when the pads come out your not supposed to hit the brake to make the caliper come out that’s what I did in the first place and cleaned it out with alcohol
I’m not a mechanic. I’m just an idiot back yard tinkerer. You should never trust stuff you see on RUclips. There are more idiots than me out there - many masquerading as experts.
Thanks for another very useful video. This is a job I will be tackling shortly to clean off the road salt that was thrown over the bike before I laid it up for winter. Hopefully, thanks to this vlog, everything will go as smoothly otherwise the first run next spring will be rear brakeless for 30km to the nearest bike shop 😁 Happy Christmas to you and your family, Best Wishes for 2020.
C Cooper - thanks mate. Same to you and yours.
Thank you for sharing! Doesn't seem to be so hard to do it. In my case after 15,000 Km the rear pads are almost like new ... I was thinking that perhaps I didn't use them so much, but seems like they are design to last longer I guess
Thanks mate, very good and comprehensive video!
Hi there, do you know if on the DCT version it's the same procedure? I guess I might have to release or loose the hand brake before...
Thanks Adrian, at 35000kms I reckon they will be fine but probably need a clean from the crap on the daily commute route
For the maintenance of the brakes I use only silicone grease and never common grease, since there is a possibility that due to excess temperature in that area, the grease will melt and contaminate the brakes.
Another benefit of silicone grease is that it protects all rubber parts of the brake system.
Regards!!!
When you offered up the pad at 2:40 - the pad was ‘upside down’. Just pointing it out to avoid any frustrating confusion!
Thanks for video.
I changed my brake pads 500 km ago but it is still rubbing to the disc.
I tried to ride without any rear brake and after the ride I touched the disc to check and it was hot.
I used the same procedures like you did.
This situation is very annoying. I dont know what else I can do.
The piston may be sticking. Or the rods the calliper slides on may be corroded. Either will cause the pad to not return after applying the brake.
Thanks, very helpful!
Thanks for sharing.
Here's wishing you and your family a safe and Blessed Christmas and New Year.
Regards from S Africa
Clive
Thanks Adrian. Your videos were one of the factors that helped me decide to buy the NC based on how easy it was to maintain.
Can you remind me again what replacement footpegs you got? I like how they mount lower than the stock pegs.
Timothy McKean - thanks mate
Foot pegs source
www.ebay.com.au/itm/40mm-Aluminium-Tour-Foot-Pegs-Silver-Front-Fit-Honda-NC750-S-X-2014/152979252274?hash=item239e462432:g:AF0AAOSwACRazagj
Foot pegs fitting videos
ruclips.net/video/t3J-ogACdu8/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Ud2e4CUzrpA/видео.html
Good job!
Related to the rear brake on the NC750.. I'm on my second one now and both have suffered from the rear brake switch stopping working, either staying on or not activating during the winter, presumably due to all the crud that gets in the switch. It seems to be pretty fiddly to adjust but I thought I might know a nice man who has some excellent hints and tips on getting at the little beast! Is there an easy way you know of to get the thing off for checking, cleaning and refitting? Thanks in advance if you do know.
Sorry mate. I haven’t had any problem with my switch (which is located at the foot peddle).
You can see me adjust it in this video
ruclips.net/video/Ud2e4CUzrpA/видео.html
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff Fantastic. Thanks!
Another great video, but two questions. One of the bolts you took out seemed to have locktyte on it. Also, how do you get the wheels so clean?
sippydumdum - both bolts would have had loctite on them but I’ve never bothered renewing it. But what do I know - I’m only a back yard tinkerer.
Clean wheels? I live in a part of the world where it hasn’t rained for months !
I forgot to ask what type of grease you use on these jobs? Back in the dim and distant days when I was still alive, Copper grease was used (and a thin smear put on the back of the pad backing material for some reason). Are you using a better alternative ? Silicon grease perhaps ? Best wishes.
C Cooper - never put any type of grease on the back of the pads. This is an urban myth.
Silicone grease put very sparingly on the bolts is ok.
This should really help anyone who wants to do their own brake job, not to be intimidated. Thanks!
Scott Sellers - yes. It seems silly to pay someone to do this type of job when it can be easily done at home.
I think the "elbow" torque wrench is the only one that would fit, unless you remove the exhaust. I wish you and your wife a Merry Christmas, have a safe one.
Garth Howe - thanks Garth.
What if my rear brakes are squeaking while riding on a slow speed? It squeaks when i'm not braking, just rolling.
Can cleaning the pads help, how do you think?
NVK85 - yes clean the pads with brake clean. Then rub the pad on a piece of 120 grit sand paper layer on a flat surface. Then clean with brake clean again.
Also clean the disc with brake clean.
Then reassemble.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff thx! will try!
Thanks for that - had mine apart to change pads and would they go back again??? No way, so investigated and found Rubik's spring in top of unit all mangled up and refusing to allow pads to go back in freely! Amazing how 1 thing has stopped me using the bike altogether whilst the great Honda spares machine whirls into gear, hopefully? Even worse, 3 bike Pom is now reduced to 0! - scooter apart awaiting new front fork seals and Shadow 125 away with the wizard hopefully having her carbs made good!! Regards to The Down-Unders!
Oh dear. Not the best of days. Still …. Keeps your mind off the weather 🤔
🎁🎁🎁Want to wish you and the rest of the family a merry Christmas 🎁🎁🎁
Is that the same as the ctx brake pads
I'm at the point where I put the 14mm bolt in the front of the caliper. It doesn't thread into the caliper. It just turns. If I lift the caliper off the bike the bolt threads in. The holes are lined up. I don't see what's stopping it from threading in. It's a 2014 NC700X.
Hmm. Beats me too. Unless the spring clip isn’t in the right place.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I took out the brake pads then the bolt went in & I put the brake pads in after. Somehow the pads were maybe blocking the bolt, I'm not sure.
Christ mate my Honda 500x pads have lasted almost 8k and there's nothing left on them so i guess London stop start and trail braking eats them up in no time at all.
Great video mate I'm changing my pads before my second service as its £65 per hour through my Honda dealer
Another very useful video Adrian, happy Christmas to you and Wendy.
Thanks for all the interesting content and all the best for 2020.
Btw, I eat through pads every 20,000 km! That's a 100km a day commute across London for you (and engine braking isn't very effective on the NCs I find).
Chris Porter - thanks mate appreciate your comments.
Yep I can understand the pad wear. We live semi rural, and don’t commute, which accounts for the minimal wear we get on the pads.
I find the engine braking very effective in Sport Mode on my '22 NC DCT.
@@passinthru4328 ah, that would be the difference between a new dct bike and my ten year old manual with 60k miles on it!
Be safe.
nice job big like
The Honda (car) mechanics that I know recommend Sil Glyde for all moving brake components...and avoid setting the slide pins on a dirty floor after you've coated them...YIKES. Also, opening the brake reservoir cap will make pushing the piston in easier.
Your video are much appreciated.
hi,
I pumped my brakes too much and now the piston is too far out and then when I tried to push it back with my fingers it’s impossible to do that.
I tried to use the old brake pad and using a flat head screwdriver to push the piston back but it just won’t budge what’s going on how are you able to just push it back with your fingers?
Easy job but maybe harder with spoke wheels..:)
02bigkev - ha! That contortion was so I could video the subject !
Do you know what the specs/ size is for the 12 mil bolt? Unfortunately mine broke off in the flange and need to get a new one
another super video demystifying what looks to be a hard job...thanks.
When to check and clean the rear brake pads?
проша стельмах - I do it every 20,000km
Does your rear caliper get hot I change my pads and notice heat in the caliper I re did it a second time and the same thing bike stops great but really hot caliper and rotor
No. Should not be hot unless you have just finished doing prolonged braking.
Is yours a DCT? If so then check the adjustment on your parking brake as if could be dragging.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff it’s after I use the bike if I don’t hit the back brake no heat at all it’s when I use the brake I notice it the front don’t get hot at all it’s warm
Ok. Next thing to do is remove the calliper from the disc, take out the pads.
Then gently squeeze the brake pedal so the piston comes out a little.
Then clean around the piston with brake cleaner.
Then clean the pads with brake cleaner as well.
Then squeeze the piston back in, replace the pads, replace the calliper.
Then pump the brake pedal so the pads are in the right place against the disc again.
@@AfricaTwin-Stuff I redid the job again I was told when the pads come out your not supposed to hit the brake to make the caliper come out that’s what I did in the first place and cleaned it out with alcohol
Elbow torque wrench does it come in freedom units?
Adam TSchmidt - don’t know. But they are very expensive! 🤪
Not using thread lock ?
I see one fella putting copper grease on all the threads and a heap of grease on the smooth parts of the bolts.
I’m not a mechanic. I’m just an idiot back yard tinkerer. You should never trust stuff you see on RUclips. There are more idiots than me out there - many masquerading as experts.
that torq built in your elbow got me chuckle D: great video! thanks buddy
just replaced mine thanks to your step by step tutorial :)
Merry Christmas Grts Diederik /Belgium / east-Flanders
diederik de mits - thanks mate. We are spending it with the Grand Kids.
Thx.😊
Good vid. Hope all is well your end with the fires!
Happy Gilmo - thanks mate. We are OK but many people will be having a sad Christmas.
blue nissin not last long
mikkei - true. These pads have only lasted 60,000km to date!
Mine with an aggressive riding style only 22,000 Km
Jesus. 60k? Have you ever used the rear brake? 😁
I’m fortunate to live in a semi rural area and only ride for pleasure.
So ... no, I don’t use the brakes much!