One of the things I like most about your videos is your total disregard for health and safety. Just get the job done. My kind of ethos. Fantastic work and boundless ingenuity and imagination.
Rob, I follow your videos for a while - first of all, GREAT content. I truly appreciate your initiative, sharing your knowledge and making the point: yes, you can do it. On this video, I would like to share my view of another approach to make the fin. While molding the whole set up looks great and can lead to the lightest/strongest fin, I believe that the method is at the end complicated and prone to imperfections that can lower the fin performance and life. This is how I would tackle it: - make a structural profile, base on a "slab" section that you can press with flat surfaces. Obviously, that structural profile is not a fin, but it will be the core. In the structural profile, you can easily modify number of layers, orientation, materials, foam cores... so you can personalize performance, but as the cuts are rectangular/trapeces, you can press it with flat wood or metal plaques (either with screws or vacuum) - that profile would fit inside the same mold cavity you created. Then, the void section is filled with foaming epoxy or polyurethane. Easy to sand, will expand and fill all mimicing the female mold - open the mold, sand the flash lines, retouch if needed, apply outer epoxy coat. The idea is to separate the structural part from the hydrodynamical part, so you make first the structure as solid as posible, and add on top the hydrodynamical part with another resin, easier to sand and avoiding damaging fibers, and finally you finish it for smoothness.
Very instructive video, very good to see how a fin can be made!! One question: why don't you make the blade first, add the base later? Use a longer fin for the mold, then make fin blades with this mold and cut them to the needed length (+ base depth) add the base later.
In the video; 16.38 min. I do this too. Put the base on later. My films are for the most part inspiration. I think many did not expect that making a two-part mold could be that simple. And as you suggest, it would be even easier to make a mold without a base. But then you still have to make a base mold. That makes the whole thing a lot more difficult. Anyway, thanks for your comment.
I think the problem that u may had was with the foam core reaching almost the top of the box, so u ended up with a weak base to drill (for the fin bolts)...The rest,, always as your excelence standard...U r inspiration..Btw..Pelase do as a favor and alawys wear mask and safety googles..I donp´t like the view of that carbon dust.........
Maybe in the process of making the mold, just painting the fin with PVA would have been easier than wrapping it in plastic. I like how you use spiral wire loom to absorb excess resin.
One of the things I like most about your videos is your total disregard for health and safety. Just get the job done. My kind of ethos. Fantastic work and boundless ingenuity and imagination.
Awesome work! Thank you!
Excelente! Now you gave me the how to. I will make thin leeboards for my kayak. Many thanks!
Rob,
I follow your videos for a while - first of all, GREAT content. I truly appreciate your initiative, sharing your knowledge and making the point: yes, you can do it.
On this video, I would like to share my view of another approach to make the fin. While molding the whole set up looks great and can lead to the lightest/strongest fin, I believe that the method is at the end complicated and prone to imperfections that can lower the fin performance and life.
This is how I would tackle it:
- make a structural profile, base on a "slab" section that you can press with flat surfaces. Obviously, that structural profile is not a fin, but it will be the core. In the structural profile, you can easily modify number of layers, orientation, materials, foam cores... so you can personalize performance, but as the cuts are rectangular/trapeces, you can press it with flat wood or metal plaques (either with screws or vacuum)
- that profile would fit inside the same mold cavity you created. Then, the void section is filled with foaming epoxy or polyurethane. Easy to sand, will expand and fill all mimicing the female mold
- open the mold, sand the flash lines, retouch if needed, apply outer epoxy coat.
The idea is to separate the structural part from the hydrodynamical part, so you make first the structure as solid as posible, and add on top the hydrodynamical part with another resin, easier to sand and avoiding damaging fibers, and finally you finish it for smoothness.
Hi Rob. Thanks so much for sharing your skill and art in these videos!!
nice work, great music :)
Great video. I,m looking forward to see the DIY video; converting race sail to high aspect ratio sail. Without sewing!
Top Rob, je inspireerd me om zelf nóg meer te gaan knutselen!
Hello can You put the ñame of the carbon fiber I want to trie to do one slalom fin and I dont find any carbon fiber and resine epoxy.
Thanks
smart working, cheers.
Excellent. You could copy boss raceboard dagger or is it a keel? I try to make flexing dagger out of plywood and fiberglass.
Very instructive video, very good to see how a fin can be made!! One question: why don't you make the blade first, add the base later? Use a longer fin for the mold, then make fin blades with this mold and cut them to the needed length (+ base depth) add the base later.
In the video; 16.38 min. I do this too. Put the base on later. My films are for the most part inspiration. I think many did not expect that making a two-part mold could be that simple. And as you suggest, it would be even easier to make a mold without a base. But then you still have to make a base mold. That makes the whole thing a lot more difficult. Anyway, thanks for your comment.
I think the problem that u may had was with the foam core reaching almost the top of the box, so u ended up with a weak base to drill (for the fin bolts)...The rest,, always as your excelence standard...U r inspiration..Btw..Pelase do as a favor and alawys wear mask and safety googles..I donp´t like the view of that carbon dust.........
Hoi Rob, weer met ontzag zitten kijken hoe jij dit fixt Respect. Wil alvast eentje bestellen een 60 cm voor mn jp Light wind.
Groetjes Gilbert.
Maybe in the process of making the mold, just painting the fin with PVA would have been easier than wrapping it in plastic. I like how you use spiral wire loom to absorb excess resin.
Huh cool. You have cut out a lot of gelcoat and waxing and waxing. A little filler is gust fine to finish up. Nice technic.
Super mooie video. Ga je meerdere vinnen maken en experimenteren met verschillende layups?
Супер! Очень крутой урок!
Спасибо, привет из Нидерландов.
@@robrockwindsurfboards75 У меня в планах сделать копию фина для кайтборда. Ты мне очень помог! Спасибо!
технологии ни какой, но музыка наша!
Pls be my dad