I wish there were more skilled and trust worthy people like you around the country. It seems like more and more people now a days do the bare minimum and whatever is quickest to get a job done. It is hard to find quality people like you that deliver a quality product. Keep doing what you are doing!
When I was working for my last employer (I am self employed, now) they built the compacted base down 12" then then added a thin layer (½" to 1") of compacted tailings to set perfect grade then placed the brick. His work lasts way better than most of the competition. We get as much precipitation as the Pacific North West, along with prolonged (about 2 months) freeze thaw cycles every spring.
Good video. Customers appreciate when you can do a quality, lasting patio repair. So many contractors will tell people that it's a total loss and need to start over. Repairs often seem tedious, but if done right will gain you a lifelong customer! On the poly sand longevity, we use Alliance Gator sands and we have a bunch of projects at 10 years old with zero sand problems thus far. We like their products a lot. Thanks for the videos.
Just did a similar job-paver patio with several sunken areas. I recommended dismantling the whole patio, regrading & reassembling. Of course the homeowner didn’t want to spend that much on it so they wanted bare minimum patchwork & then complained that “the end results weren’t as impressive as expected “. Ironically, I felt the same way about the Jaguar SUV in the driveway.
This has to be one of the best in a while (for me - DIY) as I have been trying to figure out how to repair ours for the last couple of years. It isn't bad, but a tweak or two is needed for our walk-out basement. Thanks!
Thank you Stan! I got to tear back a lot of my brick pavers to fix the bad dip on it and I didn't want to do too much work, now I see that I will need to. You've inspired me to do it right the first time.
work for a hardscape company in Kansas City and do most of our work in KS and Missouri. with the weather here we never put our pavers on sand. we always pour a concrete base and put the pavers on that. glue the border down and use polymeric sand for the joints. sand base patios just don’t stand up to the weather here at all.
Thanks, just what I was looking for. My back yard patio looks just like this and wondered how to tackle it. The grade in some places grades back to the house and other grades creates a swimming pool in the middle of the patio.
You taught me today that there is more to repairing a deck than just adding sand. The moral of the story is tell them to call Stanley. Lol. but now I can explain professionally why I have decided to pass on the job.
Great video man love your vids your channel has become literally the man thing I watch and I always get excited when u post a new i jump on it right away lol
Great video. I really like the how tos and techniques of building videos. Equipment reviews are okay, and really useful when it comes time to get that piece of equipment but in my opinion it can more entertainment. Just my thoughts, I like them, I just like them balances with these videos on educational videos on building techniques, job sites, employees, advertising , etc. thanks!
Hey Stanley. Have you ever used 57 clean stone for base than the smaller chip for your 1" base leveler for under the pavers. I've read a few articles and the sound intriguing. Better compaction. Better drainage.
On a few intances, where I needed to add more than one inch of sand in a small area, I ended up adding some 3/4 gravel mixed in with the sand for stability. Do you forsee a future problem with me doing this?
Nice videos! What would your recommendation be to correct a patio that has sunken on the edges and in random spots throughout if the only base appears to be sand or screen? I am assuming a complete base correction is necessary, but wondering what you think. Thanks
😂😂😂😂Stan I'm sure you love the comments by all these experts behind the keyboard that think they know something. Anyway appreciate your videos and time.
Before I'd start a repair like this I'd either setup a string or use my 10ft Skreeting rod so see where the level of the patio starts to drop off. If the whole thing is curved there's not much you can do to match.
We do the same thing here in Ontario! Long level to determine where the drop off is, peel back and repair! Sometime the cust. only wants to first foot or 2 repaired but once you show the where it starts to dip they usually always agree to have it repaired correctly from the point of failure!
You know, it's easier said then done but, have you thought about starting another channel??? Have one dedicated to vids like this, the how to, insider tips, hints, and stuff, and have the other channel about equipment, watching them work, the newest and greatest coming to market, side by each comparisons, you make awesome videos, but sometimes it's a little hard to keep up, cause one minute your talking about cool equipment coming out, and the next your talking about contractor's mistakes, and then it's just cool vids of a excavator with a grapple pulling out a never ending tarp???? Idk just a thought, you keep being awesome and I'll keep watching
Just did a patio with pavers meeting the retaining wall I wasnt in charge and did catch the mistake in time and still had to rip a whole fully cut 30×30 patio fix and put it all back together lol. 🤬😡😡🤬😡🤬🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
This type or repair seems to be happening on incorrect installations where they use too much sand and not enough base. If the customer would of hired the right guy in the first place they wouldn't have had to repair it period Nice explanation. I see too much sand more times then not.
Great video, Thank you! I am working on a repair about 50 square feet and broke your rule a bit on the sand thickness but added about 10% portland to the sand that I added. Maybe it will fail and then I will take your advice with the gravel. But my real question is how do I deal with the last few pavers not fitting. Things just got too tight. I don't want to rent a saw and I just need to tweak a few of the last pavers to loosen things up. Am I stuck hiring the job out after I'm 90% complete? I've tried pounding them in and have broke 2 of them. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge!
Been back watching your videos brother, and gotta say you do very well. But the 1" of sand irks me, I'll never go beyond a "planned" 1/2". Also, I've always used RC6 as base, 12-18" of drainage rock, 24" of the RC6 behind that in the bank. And grid every 2 layers of block, and 1 1/2 blocks under grade. But, I'm in MD, could be different?? ETA; Would have absolutely loved to had someone even half as effective as one of your guys.. Keep treating them like the gold those men are..
You say not to go up to the edge of a retaining wall with pavers. So at the front of this wall you have a empty space there. Then the top of the wall. What do you do with that empty strip area? Also, in your other videos you say that behind a wall you add 12-18 inches of gravel for drainage. My question is if you have a paver edging close to the wall, do the pins still hold tight in the gravel. I know if it were compacted class 5 it would be tight. Thanks. Im asking these question because Im hoping to put up a short wall with a patio on top.
Question for you stan I've used stone dust for patios and walk ways what's the pros and cons of stone dust verse the sand you used. I've never used that sand before.
These repairs are always hard to seĺl. They are really time-consuming, if you are charging 1 day of labour for 2 guys (16 × 45 dollars = 720 dollars + taxes + sand + joint material that's a pretty high amount for a 10 year old green patio. In the Netherlands most clients opt for a new patio if they hear that price. Plus it is always a struggle to get the pattern laid back exactly, most of the times it doesn't fit perfectly.
can you explain what exactly class 5 is? Around here they have no idea what I am talking about if I ask for it. They do have "paver base" which seems to be a mix of small stones and fines, nothing larger than 3/8 of an inch.
I'm repairing a small stone patio that goes out a basement door. About a 5x9 foot stone patio with small retaining wall shaped like an L. The lines are uneven from the design. Possibly didn't snap a chalk line, and the stones along the edges are not finished to create the line along the edge. I'm confused about what you said about the 3ft space behind a retaining wall. I'm using polymeric sand to fill cracks. And I believe the home owner has the sand to raise up where it has dipped from drainage. In an existing patio done by an amateur with no fall how do you create this so the drainage doesn't repeat the same issue? What fall could I use on a width of 5 and length of 9. Hopefully this will make sense to you. I'm A female who is the only one working on this and my boss is very bad at patio work.. hence why I'm asking you!
I think this was a matter of the retaining wall not having sufficient water drainage gravel along the wall. So it seems like as the water drainage occurs it took the soil with it and sunk the ground!
So have you changed your opinion on polymeric sand? You said previously you didn't like it because it clumps and you have to remove it all to replace it.
Hey Stanley, Love and appreciate every video from you i was curious has to how you yourself would approach a part of a lawn or say a stretch of a lawn that has had some settlement say a ditch after a drain was put in years down the road. after it settled would you add some dirt to raise it back to grade or tamp whats there then add....thank you for everything
Pressure wash and then re-spread the polysand! Depends of the power of the Pressure Washer but even a low power PW can blow out the polysand and the more powerful the PW the faster the job gets done and the cleaner as well! Take a chunk of the polysand you blow out to the store with you, calculate the sqft (LxW) grab the appropriate amount of bags and follow the instructions! Most brands now that you can buy dont leave any haze and dont require any blowing with a leaf blower, Very DIY friendly! Just lay, sweep into joints, tamp it down into the cracks as best you can, set your hose shower and give it a little water!
I always leave the pavers like a 1/4" high when I install pavers meeting up against a retaining wall. Its next to impossible to fill all the voids behind the blocks
I thought the video was great. thanks for giving out your problem solving techniques. Gotta say, that yard looks like a disaster however. You couldnt pay me enough to problem solve it piecemeal like this because I would feel like it doesnt change the big picture one iota which is always "Would i want to be there?" For me that is the only question that needs an enthusiastic YES when we are done or its all for naught.
I hesitate to take on patio releveling jobs because I worry the pavers may crack at the end when compacting with the machine. Often times the patios are old and occassionally the pavers are no longer made.
Just use the smallest tamper you can, im in Canada and Canadian Tire/Home Depot sells this little Plate compactor that you can place an aftermarket pad on the bottom that works perfect for lift and relays! Thats it right there \/\/\/\/ www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gas-powered-plate-compactor-0603798p.0603798.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4TyBRDgARIsAOU75sq7efrrO0ymFgYaRXm3L3pcRz-pHBoE5VvSpuFH5LLqP8OiKJz1tuIaAlnMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=6
I'm not going to say I know the right way. I do a know a way to fix pavers behind a retaining wall settling. I'm not sure the name I think it's class 57 rock. Angular washed rock with no binding agent will not require compaction.
Agreed, a clean 3/4" stone (ASTM #57) when thrown in place has a 95% compaction ratio which is above standard requirements and will only settle a max of 1/16 of an inch!! Hand tamping it can get it up to 98% which is high enough to make any patio last forever!
The problem with throwing clean stone over dense grade is it can trap water in the clean stone! if there is no way for water to exit or to permeate down, in a warm winter day water can get trapped in that layer and freeze at night causing slight heaving issues
@@ChapmanMain I didn't include every step in my short answer. Like the layers of geo-grid or the 10mm stone that replaces the skreeding layer that allows a 2" thickness. I think we'd have some good convo's if we had more room to elaborate. www.hardscapemagazine.com/articles_construction_25.htm
Do you run into grading issues when repairing a large section like in the first part of this video? How do you keep the water from going back towards the house while still building it back up?
Possibly but that problem took 20 years to develop. so in 20 years I will repair it if it happens and they will still have spent less money than with other systems that need total replacement.
3/4" crushed stone mixed with sand as a binder to lock everything together! Its used in whats called a "dense grade" paver base which does not allow alot or any water to permeate through!
I wish there were more skilled and trust worthy people like you around the country. It seems like more and more people now a days do the bare minimum and whatever is quickest to get a job done. It is hard to find quality people like you that deliver a quality product. Keep doing what you are doing!
When I was working for my last employer (I am self employed, now) they built the compacted base down 12" then then added a thin layer (½" to 1") of compacted tailings to set perfect grade then placed the brick. His work lasts way better than most of the competition. We get as much precipitation as the Pacific North West, along with prolonged (about 2 months) freeze thaw cycles every spring.
Good video. Customers appreciate when you can do a quality, lasting patio repair. So many contractors will tell people that it's a total loss and need to start over. Repairs often seem tedious, but if done right will gain you a lifelong customer! On the poly sand longevity, we use Alliance Gator sands and we have a bunch of projects at 10 years old with zero sand problems thus far. We like their products a lot. Thanks for the videos.
You're welcome Jared and thanks for the comments !
I always have respect for the guys with patience for the interlock stuff, I haven’t got the patience or finesse for that crap
As always I appreciate your sharing your experience. God bless and stay safe!
Thank you Oliver !
Just did a similar job-paver patio with several sunken areas. I recommended dismantling the whole patio, regrading & reassembling. Of course the homeowner didn’t want to spend that much on it so they wanted bare minimum patchwork & then complained that “the end results weren’t as impressive as expected “. Ironically, I felt the same way about the Jaguar SUV in the driveway.
This has to be one of the best in a while (for me - DIY) as I have been trying to figure out how to repair ours for the last couple of years. It isn't bad, but a tweak or two is needed for our walk-out basement. Thanks!
Good to hear Lee, thank you !
Awesome video! When I do this for my customers I like to finish the job by pressure washing the patio to help make it all look new!
Do you offer a hands on training on the job? Would like to attend or even 2 days job shadow you priceless
YES!! absolutely agree
Yeah, show us how to repair a retaining wall. I’d love to see these small options rather than the entire rebuilds too(:
Thank you Stan! I got to tear back a lot of my brick pavers to fix the bad dip on it and I didn't want to do too much work, now I see that I will need to. You've inspired me to do it right the first time.
That is a big job . Have a wonderful day - thank you for showing how things work in the reality.
You're welcome, thank YOU for watching !
Wow awesome video and didactic! Thank you for passing on your knowledge!
Very grateful for your time and help.
Thanks guys! I have stone patio like this in my backyard and it's falling apart. This video offers me an insight on how I can repair it. Thanks!!
Glad to hear it and good luck with the project!
work for a hardscape company in Kansas City and do most of our work in KS and Missouri. with the weather here we never put our pavers on sand. we always pour a concrete base and put the pavers on that. glue the border down and use polymeric sand for the joints. sand base patios just don’t stand up to the weather here at all.
Great repair tips Stanley. Yes every once a while show some stone and paver repair video.✌🙏👍
will do!
Thanks for the advice on how to get this done
This was a great video to show how to fix old paving...
Stan, I love videos like this. I have learned so much. Thanks
Awesome Joseph, thanks !
Thanks, just what I was looking for. My back yard patio looks just like this and wondered how to tackle it. The grade in some places grades back to the house and other grades creates a swimming pool in the middle of the patio.
Great stuff Stanley.
Thank you, appreciate that !
Thanks for the great teaching. I learned my mistake. Noe, time to fix it.
You taught me today that there is more to repairing a deck than just adding sand. The moral of the story is tell them to call Stanley. Lol. but now I can explain professionally why I have decided to pass on the job.
Love it- glad the video helped out!
Thanks for the tip on the 2x4 to blend in the repair!
Great job and information on repair you are helping people so much with your videos thank you.
Glad to help, thanks Jeff !
More videos like this!! These are awesome, very helpful!
Love to hear it, thank you !
Sure, do what u do, im thinking of putting a long narrow patio in so this will help out alot...
Would love to see another start to finish new pavers
Great video, lots of good information
Thanks !
Amazing skill of these men.
Thank you Stan!!!
You're welcome Brian, thanks for watching !
Guys do very good work !
Wow them guys are damn good, that patio looks great after the repairs...
Retaining wall repair would b great!
Got it, thank you !
Yess more videos please thank you very interesting definitely learned something from
Happy to hear that Joe, thanks !
Great video man love your vids your channel has become literally the man thing I watch and I always get excited when u post a new i jump on it right away lol
Thank you Ryan, I am so happy to have you here , thanks for all the support !
Great video. I really like the how tos and techniques of building videos. Equipment reviews are okay, and really useful when it comes time to get that piece of equipment but in my opinion it can more entertainment. Just my thoughts, I like them, I just like them balances with these videos on educational videos on building techniques, job sites, employees, advertising , etc. thanks!
Thanks for the feedback Cody!
Nice job guys!
Thanks John!
This is great! Thanks for the information. I love your channel.
Hey Stanley. Have you ever used 57 clean stone for base than the smaller chip for your 1" base leveler for under the pavers. I've read a few articles and the sound intriguing. Better compaction. Better drainage.
these videos are really helpful!!
Love to hear that, thank you !!
Thank you or sharing your secrets!!!
On a few intances, where I needed to add more than one inch of sand in a small area, I ended up adding some 3/4 gravel mixed in with the sand for stability. Do you forsee a future problem with me doing this?
This video is really helpful
Awesome!
Nice videos! What would your recommendation be to correct a patio that has sunken on the edges and in random spots throughout if the only base appears to be sand or screen? I am assuming a complete base correction is necessary, but wondering what you think. Thanks
PAVING EDGE question: Would you recommend removing the one inch layer of sand BEFORE installing the paver edge? Why or why not? Love your vids!
😂😂😂😂Stan I'm sure you love the comments by all these experts behind the keyboard that think they know something. Anyway appreciate your videos and time.
Thank you Tim, I appreciate you all for watching and for all the comments !!
Before I'd start a repair like this I'd either setup a string or use my 10ft Skreeting rod so see where the level of the patio starts to drop off. If the whole thing is curved there's not much you can do to match.
We do the same thing here in Ontario! Long level to determine where the drop off is, peel back and repair! Sometime the cust. only wants to first foot or 2 repaired but once you show the where it starts to dip they usually always agree to have it repaired correctly from the point of failure!
Great video, Stan. I love my circular paver patio at my house. Looks great, but requires a light coating of locking sand every year.
Thank you Don !
Thanks tim for filming ( may be wrong if i am thanks to the person that filmed
You know, it's easier said then done but, have you thought about starting another channel??? Have one dedicated to vids like this, the how to, insider tips, hints, and stuff, and have the other channel about equipment, watching them work, the newest and greatest coming to market, side by each comparisons, you make awesome videos, but sometimes it's a little hard to keep up, cause one minute your talking about cool equipment coming out, and the next your talking about contractor's mistakes, and then it's just cool vids of a excavator with a grapple pulling out a never ending tarp???? Idk just a thought, you keep being awesome and I'll keep watching
Thats actually good feedback. Ive thought maybe my channel gets confusing but I like to offer varitety.
Just did a patio with pavers meeting the retaining wall I wasnt in charge and did catch the mistake in time and still had to rip a whole fully cut 30×30 patio fix and put it all back together lol. 🤬😡😡🤬😡🤬🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️
This type or repair seems to be happening on incorrect installations where they use too much sand and not enough base. If the customer would of hired the right guy in the first place they wouldn't have had to repair it period
Nice explanation. I see too much sand more times then not.
Great video, Thank you! I am working on a repair about 50 square feet and broke your rule a bit on the sand thickness but added about 10% portland to the sand that I added. Maybe it will fail and then I will take your advice with the gravel. But my real question is how do I deal with the last few pavers not fitting. Things just got too tight. I don't want to rent a saw and I just need to tweak a few of the last pavers to loosen things up. Am I stuck hiring the job out after I'm 90% complete? I've tried pounding them in and have broke 2 of them. Thanks for sharing your hard earned knowledge!
Been back watching your videos brother, and gotta say you do very well. But the 1" of sand irks me, I'll never go beyond a "planned" 1/2". Also, I've always used RC6 as base, 12-18" of drainage rock, 24" of the RC6 behind that in the bank. And grid every 2 layers of block, and 1 1/2 blocks under grade. But, I'm in MD, could be different??
ETA; Would have absolutely loved to had someone even half as effective as one of your guys.. Keep treating them like the gold those men are..
Should I put fill dirt over grass or to do it “right” should I rip out the grass first?
Pretty interesting. Would it be worthwhile to throw a little cement dust in with the sand and gravel to harden things up? Or a really terrible idea?
we used portland cement for locking our patio....
You say not to go up to the edge of a retaining wall with pavers. So at the front of this wall you have a empty space there. Then the top of the wall. What do you do with that empty strip area? Also, in your other videos you say that behind a wall you add 12-18 inches of gravel for drainage. My question is if you have a paver edging close to the wall, do the pins still hold tight in the gravel. I know if it were compacted class 5 it would be tight. Thanks. Im asking these question because Im hoping to put up a short wall with a patio on top.
Question for you stan I've used stone dust for patios and walk ways what's the pros and cons of stone dust verse the sand you used. I've never used that sand before.
Do you leave the pipe in the ground
Is that an up charge poly sand? I'd use it anyway but
What is class 5? I am in New York and I have not heard of that classification. Can you tell me what is the largest size aggregate? Thanks
In NJ it’s sold as dense graded aggregate or DGA. or 3/4 with fines.
These repairs are always hard to seĺl. They are really time-consuming, if you are charging 1 day of labour for 2 guys (16 × 45 dollars = 720 dollars + taxes + sand + joint material that's a pretty high amount for a 10 year old green patio. In the Netherlands most clients opt for a new patio if they hear that price.
Plus it is always a struggle to get the pattern laid back exactly, most of the times it doesn't fit perfectly.
can you explain what exactly class 5 is? Around here they have no idea what I am talking about if I ask for it. They do have "paver base" which seems to be a mix of small stones and fines, nothing larger than 3/8 of an inch.
Its 3/4 rock with smaller aggregate down to fines mixed in. Packs like concrete
Is the notch in the 2" x 4", a 1" notch, the same as your 1" screed bar?
I'm repairing a small stone patio that goes out a basement door. About a 5x9 foot stone patio with small retaining wall shaped like an L. The lines are uneven from the design. Possibly didn't snap a chalk line, and the stones along the edges are not finished to create the line along the edge. I'm confused about what you said about the 3ft space behind a retaining wall. I'm using polymeric sand to fill cracks. And I believe the home owner has the sand to raise up where it has dipped from drainage. In an existing patio done by an amateur with no fall how do you create this so the drainage doesn't repeat the same issue? What fall could I use on a width of 5 and length of 9. Hopefully this will make sense to you. I'm A female who is the only one working on this and my boss is very bad at patio work.. hence why I'm asking you!
I think this was a matter of the retaining wall not having sufficient water drainage gravel along the wall. So it seems like as the water drainage occurs it took the soil with it and sunk the ground!
So have you changed your opinion on polymeric sand? You said previously you didn't like it because it clumps and you have to remove it all to replace it.
What compaction force plate packer do you use over the pavers for the polymeric sand? I haven’t seen that in any of your videos
I have 50+/- sq ft I want to do 12”x12” pavers. What should I use below the sand? Class 5 or is there something I can get at big box?
Thanks!!
Good info 👍
Thanks Brian !
Hey Stanley, Love and appreciate every video from you i was curious has to how you yourself would approach a part of a lawn or say a stretch of a lawn that has had some settlement say a ditch after a drain was put in years down the road. after it settled would you add some dirt to raise it back to grade or tamp whats there then add....thank you for everything
I know there may be lots of factors, but for a repair like this, how much would this cost? just rough estimate...?
Roger Cook swears by polymeric sand.
How do you guys clean pavers? Any concerns about driving water, pushing sand out of the joints?
Pressure wash and then re-spread the polysand! Depends of the power of the Pressure Washer but even a low power PW can blow out the polysand and the more powerful the PW the faster the job gets done and the cleaner as well! Take a chunk of the polysand you blow out to the store with you, calculate the sqft (LxW) grab the appropriate amount of bags and follow the instructions!
Most brands now that you can buy dont leave any haze and dont require any blowing with a leaf blower, Very DIY friendly! Just lay, sweep into joints, tamp it down into the cracks as best you can, set your hose shower and give it a little water!
how can you use this with a raised flagstone patio over 700sqft
Stan how come no edging on the first repair job?
It was there. I just didn't mention it but you can see it
I always leave the pavers like a 1/4" high when I install pavers meeting up against a retaining wall. Its next to impossible to fill all the voids behind the blocks
Can you make a video on how to do a 6 ft fence on top of a retaining wall?
What's the best way to clean what I suspect is a concrete paver. Especially ones that dirty. Aussie Jeff
pressure washer works great- makes them look like new
I thought the video was great. thanks for giving out your problem solving techniques. Gotta say, that yard looks like a disaster however. You couldnt pay me enough to problem solve it piecemeal like this because I would feel like it doesnt change the big picture one iota which is always "Would i want to be there?" For me that is the only question that needs an enthusiastic YES when we are done or its all for naught.
Can you show a walkway from start to finish that way?
I can if I get one to do. I don't have anything but snow scheduled for awhile though
Is Class 5 - 3/4" minus? What's the difference between Class 2 and Class 5?
I hesitate to take on patio releveling jobs because I worry the pavers may crack at the end when compacting with the machine. Often times the patios are old and occassionally the pavers are no longer made.
Just use the smallest tamper you can, im in Canada and Canadian Tire/Home Depot sells this little Plate compactor that you can place an aftermarket pad on the bottom that works perfect for lift and relays!
Thats it right there \/\/\/\/
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/gas-powered-plate-compactor-0603798p.0603798.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAm4TyBRDgARIsAOU75sq7efrrO0ymFgYaRXm3L3pcRz-pHBoE5VvSpuFH5LLqP8OiKJz1tuIaAlnMEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#store=6
How to bid/install dry stack retaining walls!
Do you have a video on how to repair french drains? I saw your install one but if there are any major differences, a repair one would be awesome.
You bet
Do you use 1" pipe?
I know a guy who simply laid a concrete pad, then paver bricks. No settling yat!
@Chuck Barnes I'm sorry, but that pile of words doesn't make any sense. ???
@Chuck Barnes 👍
Does it need more drainage, seems like water is trapped.
Whst is class 5 in inches. Like half inch minus?
Did they test that pipe for a leak? A small leak will wash that material out.
I woulda added 2 or 3 drains or a french drain if i had the money If I was doing that
What is Class 5? I am a beginner.
I'm not going to say I know the right way. I do a know a way to fix pavers behind a retaining wall settling. I'm not sure the name I think it's class 57 rock. Angular washed rock with no binding agent will not require compaction.
Alex Newhart ideally it would not but i would still recommend compacting it as it does settle.
Agreed, a clean 3/4" stone (ASTM #57) when thrown in place has a 95% compaction ratio which is above standard requirements and will only settle a max of 1/16 of an inch!! Hand tamping it can get it up to 98% which is high enough to make any patio last forever!
The problem with throwing clean stone over dense grade is it can trap water in the clean stone! if there is no way for water to exit or to permeate down, in a warm winter day water can get trapped in that layer and freeze at night causing slight heaving issues
@@ChapmanMain I didn't include every step in my short answer. Like the layers of geo-grid or the 10mm stone that replaces the skreeding layer that allows a 2" thickness. I think we'd have some good convo's if we had more room to elaborate. www.hardscapemagazine.com/articles_construction_25.htm
@@TheWiseDaws Like Chapman said a hand tamp would probably do. Also adding geo grid will help with the settling as well.
Minnesota baby
Do you run into grading issues when repairing a large section like in the first part of this video? How do you keep the water from going back towards the house while still building it back up?
Not to get off subject Stan, but whatever happened to the sugar gliders you got?
Isn't it just a matter of time before that same issue comes back? Seems like that's where the water likes to pool.
Possibly but that problem took 20 years to develop. so in 20 years I will repair it if it happens and they will still have spent less money than with other systems that need total replacement.
Does this differ for driveways?
Class 5? what is that
3/4" crushed stone mixed with sand as a binder to lock everything together! Its used in whats called a "dense grade" paver base which does not allow alot or any water to permeate through!