I really enjoy how these videos focus on the actual collection of trees rather than nursery stock or from seed. This channel is one of the few that really tackles the collection of trees
That's why I did the videos. There's not much in-depth information without deep searching. There wasn't a RUclips when I started, so it was use-common-sense & learn-as-you-go. Collecting trees is no magic trick, but it is my belief the bonsai world doesn't share that knowledge readily, for some good reasons: Inexperience can kill beautiful trees. Trespassing can put a terrible name on the hobby. The ethics of collecting trees may not be fully understood. That's why I try to share what I know, so the novice may be more informed of what they're getting into. Hopefully, the varying messages are getting across. And from your comment, it seems they are! Thank you for watching!
Wspaniale! Życzę Ci szczęścia i mam nadzieję, że te filmy dalej pomagają i inspirują! Jeśli masz okazję zobaczyć Waltera Pall'a, kiedy jest w twoim rejonie, to jest fantastyczny!
Great videos. Great attitude. Thanks for your insights and expertise shared. The Privet is a real gem. My two cents on the branches: We often aim for an ideal balance with taper and proportions (not that you are). I see this instinct as a product of our own perception of "perfection" in organic, geometric proportions. I see a relationship with this perspective and our cultural influence defined by the the Vitruvian Man. We tend to personify nature and in our work with bonsai, perhaps this carries over. I see a certain fractal perfection in nature also that influences our work with training bonsai. I believe the fractal map is essential to this work and I see this aesthetic effort as integral to the art. At the crossroads, we see that nature also offers many oddities and anomalies. This is why I love the wild collected material. Long story short, maybe both branches stay and the possibility of a perceived imbalance actually ends up defining this tree's interest after all.
I like it!! I haven't cut the branches on the privet because I still like them, and to me that's most important - it's my tree, and the perceived imbalance adds so much character to it. Many thanks for your insights!
privet hedge is, in my opinion, one of the most forgiving trees for bonsai or topiary. part of the fun of collecting trees is the "hunt". I like to go out on a beautiful day and can find many trees to collect but I find that it is very hard to decide on which one to collect for bonsai or topiary. Of the two, bonsai and topiary, I think I like designing the topiary for the short term effect I obtain but the bonsai, for me, gives me pleasure when I am working on the tree because of the peace it gives me while working on wiring and pruning. The topiary are some what more labor intensive but as I said it does give me peace when I can work on them. I have one topiary, designed in the cloud formation, that I have had for approximately ten years and has turned out to be a beautiful piece. many people ask me "what is this about" referring to the ten year old topiary....I find that people just don't know about topiary or bonsai in this area. Educating them can be interesting because of their reaction. Thank you for your videos and I am glad to have found your channel......marty in south Carolina
Ben, I like the privets you had on this video. I was back in Va this past summer, and I dug up a coul;e of privets from my brother's hedges and brought them back up to Ak with me. They are budding, but, not as well as I had hoped they would. Maybe as time goes on they'll bud more. I had the cut off most of the foliage and they are slow budding because of that. The parts that had a little foliage left on them are doing quite well. The trees are about 8-10 inches at the base....nice stock to start with, but, we'll see how they do. Looks like your stuff is doing good.
Summer's not the best for collect, but privet can handle it. It may be slow to recovery because of the time of collection. If it survives the winter, it should be strong this spring.
Like the privet as is ,carve the thick bit if not liked,privets make good indoor trees like focus. Love the haw than as twin trunk as u said and as for the big hawthawn maybe you could cut that side trunk off maybe even save it,difficult to say without seein the base . I would like a laburnum.great vid .cheers
I'm no expert, but if I recall correctly another way to correct and increase lower trunk taper is to continue encouraging root ramification. Letting a low sacrificial branch grow way out helps too while controlling the branches above it.
nice collection thanx for posting , I am looking at getting few bonsai trees for my place, this is how I came across your vide, you have some interesting stuff there.
Thanks for your videos they are great to watch. I'm in sub-tropical Queensland and so all these plants don't do too well here as we get droughts and heat waves in summer. I know you are growing these trees as bonsais but maybe some can be grown more in a penjing style that is not so formal - it gives a little more scope to take advantage of natural features and doesn't conform so much to bonsai ascetics.
I agree with you. I'm all for natural aesthetics. To me, many bonsai look like triangles and mushroom heads, and I'm sure you know what I mean. They're more art than tree, which is a fine expression for those that want it that way. I think many people outside of Japan and to a degree China, think that this is what bonsai is supposed to be. It isn't. Bonsai is just another means to express one's art through a living material, while still giving the impression of 'tree'. Triangles and mushrooms and broom styles and... whatever, that's just how those particular cultures express themselves in this medium. My views and culture are different. My hope is to make these trees look like what's in my backyard Appalachian mountains, not formal Japanese styles. The old trees growing around me aren't triangles or mushrooms; they're very much rugged and varied in structure, and I love it. I state in my next collection video that the persimmon won't be looking like a formal upright, or windswept, or a pine tree. It's going to be gnarly; more in the vein of Walter Pall, Harry Harrington, and Dan Robinson, and less Kimura, Naka, and Kobayashi. Sacrilege? No. Appalachian Bonsai! I'm not dissing those that wish to present classical Japanese bonsai, as I have learned and continue to learn so many different techniques from them. It's just that my direction and vision is different. Cheers!
I think we're of the same mind set when it comes to most Bonsai. I would much rather see a tree in it natural look, rather than sculpted into a magazine cover, or 3D art. That's just me. I can appreciate and see the beauty in other impressions of Bonsai. You've got a great eye on the present and the future.I'd love to see one of your video's on critiquing Yamadori and what you look for.ThanksSimplySaid
It was nice to see someone else with some privets. You're trunk lines were more interesting than mine. Maybe I should set them on the ground and let the rabbits go at them for a while :-)
Oh, it's the best! Cattle, horses, other livestock (including rabbits!), farming equipment, road maintenance crews - they create all sorts of interesting material! Check Graham Potter - he's got some monster privets! Thank you for the comment!
Sir,I have just subscribed...I am an aspiring Bonsai enthusiast ....and I believe I am local to you. Exit 37 of off I40. My intentions are to grow local fauna. I have a plethora of questions about what local species are even capable of Bonsai treatment. If this channel is meant to be interactive with you I look forward to picking your brain. If not I understand and will just continue to enjoy your videos. All the best to you and yours sir.!
Pick my brain as you wish! Exit 37 should put you just outside of Asheville, which is ~ 3-4 hours south of me. There's an excellent bonsai collection at the NC Arboretum there, and also a very good bonsai club. Check them out! As much advice as you'll get from me here, you'll get loads of it in person with knowledgeable people. They put on an annual bonsai expo every October, which I participate in (look for the next videos, which will highlight this year's). As far as local material: plenty! These Appalachian mountains have a great deal to offer. Before you dig, make sure you can care for the tree first, otherwise it would have been best to leave it where it was. Secondly, get permission. Species: well, for starters, there's hornbeam, hophornbeam, beech, cherry, persimmon, maple, pitch pine, virginia pine, hawthorn, virginia juniper (a.k.a. red cedar), ... it goes on. You can create bonsai out of most any material, it's just that some are better than others. A rhododendron has beautiful shape, but the leaves won't reduce in size very much. So, if you like their flowers and shape, think about an azalea instead. If you're worried about killing a tree, start of with something cheap at your local garden center. Nursery stock provides some of the best training material before you dig up something in the backyard. Hope that's helpful and gets you on your way. Feel free to ask more questions - it's what I'm here for
Thank you for that! I've several hours of footage that needs to be condensed down, but some technical issues & summer fun have gotten in the way. I just need to put my tail in the seat & finish the rest. Keep watching, I've a few coming up!
Just getting into the hobby and discovered your channel. I love the collection videos, very informative and it's great to see how these trees are doing. You mention that you're fertilizing these heavily. This is something I'm trying to figure out for myself, so more detail would be great. Also, I would be tempted to be pruning those lower sucker shoots to direct more energy upwards, but I gather from your videos that this wouldn't be recommended?
I fertilize heavily because I want the branches to grow quickly. Once the tree becomes more mature & defined, I'll reduce the fertilizer to limit the growth. Too much fertilizer on a matured bonsai can create unwanted growth that will ruin the shape. That said, the extra fertilizer allows the sucker shoots to grow without starving the top, which is beginning to become more refined. I'll thicken the base, then prune them off before the create too large a scar. It just takes practice, that's all! Best of luck with the hobby! It's awesome, and I'm glad you enjoy the videos. Hope you'll find them helpful for your bonsai future!
Great works. Anyway, I was thinking if I had a house and a buddy like you (who likes to collect material from nature) around Hattiesburg MS, I would have many many good bonsai........
They may be out there already! I've some friends in Jackson that love playing in the woods, though they don't do bonsai. My friend that helps me doesn't keep bonsai, but he loves a good walk about! Search around, ask a friend, or find a bonsai club near you. Sometimes you never know until you ask! Good luck!
They should be available in your area. I find them mostly in riparian areas and near creaks/rivers, though I have found several randomly on hillsides. If you have American Beech growing near you, you might find these other beauties in the same vicinity.
Hey, love your vids. Very informative. I was wondering if you considered air layering that second trunk of that big Hawthorne if you decide to remove it. In the time you are letting it grow, and get healthy you could have yourself a decent air layer. Just a thought. Keep up the vids they’re great 👍.
Hi, I am Florin, from Romania, I would like to say I'm new in bonsai but not sure I'm there, maybe I'm new in loving watching bonsai.... I have few questions : - Collecting in March - April, potted, let it grow, cut back in ... September - October ?
That's the start for collected material such as what I've shown. You can also use trees bought from local tree nurseries, which is a common thing to do. Pruning in late fall (Sept - Oct) is preparing the dormant tree for spring growth. It is different for trees that are already established in the pots for a few years. I'll explain more in coming videos. Keep watching, and thanks!
i like the specimens you collected. all seem to be recovering well. air-layering might improve most of them unless you want large bonsai. since these are all in training, wouldn't fabric pots, air pots or large colanders be better for the roots ? any particular reason you are using bonsai pots ?
No particular reason to use the bonsai pots except that they were what I had on hand! With the exception of the first privet, all the pots are plastic nursery cans or cheap mica training pots with extra holes drilled in for drainage. They seem to work well without restricting water flow, and my soil mixture is very coarse - must be watered almost every day. I've several small trees, but I'm really excited to work on the larger material for a change. Thank you for the comment!
Nice video! I've subscribed. But could you please not say, "As you can see" so often? I had a professor who used to say, "Ahh" between every sentence and it was difficult not to lose my concentration on what he was trying to tell us. Anyway, a really good video and I am now going to scout out more of your work! Thank you!
Haha!! My wife said the same thing after I posted this. I really appreciate it. If I had a booger in my nose, I'd want someone to say, and if a speech pattern is continually repeated, I'd want someone to point it out. It's an excellent comment. Thanks
Appalachian Bonsai I am happy you didn't think I was just trying to make trouble. You're not the only one who says that. Another really good bonsai RUclipsr does the exact same thing. I am not going to tell you his name .... or maybe her name. Anyway your videos are VERY GOOD and I appreciate you making them. BTW: there's a booger in your nose at 5:26 in this video: Only joking! :)
I'm on good terms with other bonsai RUclipsrs - I learn from them, and they learn from me. We comment on each others' videos, because we love learning about bonsai!... And actually, the booger is in my nose here: ruclips.net/video/_iHs0GqkVdg/видео.html - Cheers!
Thanks. Descriptions of my mix should be in the descriptions of each tree video, but if I miss them: 3x Turface MVP: 3x Pine Bark: 2x Diatomaceous Earth: 1x Sand. All sifted to 2-6mm (1/16" - 1/4")
Definitely! I have the same regimen with hornbeams as I do with all species. Across the board, once buds start opening up, I begin fertilizing once every 10-14 days. If buds are breaking, then the tree is growing - that's the time to fertilize. Timing also depends on whether recently collected or already established. With a newly collected tree (buds or not), I allow the tree to recover first & wait until new buds break - usually within 4-6 weeks. With established trees just repotted, I give them two to three weeks before beginning fertilizer. I start backing off fertilizer as fall dormancy approaches, and add some rooting hormone if I remember to (roots do lots of growing in the late summer/early fall). Concerning my fertilizer: something relatively balanced on the NKP (10-10-10), and cheap! I have many trees, so I keep cost in mind. Follow the recommended instructions/dosage on the box/bottle. My soil drains very well, so even a higher number NKP isn't going to stay in my soil very long. I alternate between a commercial fertilizer & an organic, occasionally mixing in a dose of iron & micro-nutrients. Hope that's helpful, and thank you for the comment!
I have found a hawthorn in a farmers field that is 1 foot tall with a 6 inch wide trunk and surprisingly, the branches taper out from the trunk without any breaks or chops, its got incredibly dense foliage, I think the sheep that graze that field have been eating the new shoots for years keeping it small and the rocky ground has also stopped its roots going too far down. I want to collect it (after getting the farmers permission of course) but I am scared of killing it as I've never collected big trees before and I know that old hawthorns are sensitive to having their roots disturbed. Have you got any advice? Also, what would be the BEST time of year to attempt to collect it with minimal risk of losing it?
It's getting too late into the season now to collect, but early spring is a fine time. Mid-to-late fall is also considered a good time, since roots to lots of growth just before winter. I don't do much autumn collecting, but Harry Harrington of Britain does lots of it, especially hawthorns. Keep an eye on his website or his Instagram posts for timing. A problem that can happen in springtime collecting of hawthorns (depending on where you live) is cedar-apple rust. It can weaken or kill a tree, especially if it's just been collected. The wet spring weather facilitates it, so autumn may be a better time for you. I wish you lots of luck!!
I think the best thing I can do is be patient. My current plan is to cut about half of the tap roots out covering the ends in rooting compound and sphagnum and leave it in the ground for a year letting new feeder roots grow, then come back doing the same to the other half so that all of the tap roots have been replaced with lots of fine roots before I dig it out. It might take 2 years but it will mean that the tree will never go without a good root system. I might even feed it a few times between to help it along. Do you think I should do the root cutting in autumn to avoid the cedar-apple rust you mentioned?
The more trees I collect or acquire, the more I veer towards cheaper fertilizer. I mostly use basic Miracle Grow, with some hydroponic micronutrients mixed in, feeding full strength according to instructions every two weeks. The soil drains really well, so I don't worry about it staying in the pot & burning roots. In the past, I've also used an organic fish emulsion, but it attracts animals (mainly raccoons & my dogs), and left behind a crusty scum, so I'm finishing that off and not using anymore. Some people say to switch back & forth, others say just find one good balanced.
@@AppalachianBonsai I'm just trying to start with found and nursery material and the lack of pot sources almost has me quitting. I can't imagine the wealth it must require for some of the YTers I see who have stacks of pots to choose from. The prices are staggeringly stupid IF you can find them for sale anywhere.
On the dogwood, my understanding is that while leaves may reduce well, but flowers and fruits will not. So, crabapples make better bonsai subjects than dessert apple trees. Won't the large flowers, bracts actually, overpower a small bonsai? Would it be better, maybe, to grow a dogwood as a larger bonsai?
The flowers do extract lots of energy, which is why it is best to allow the flowers to bloom only on healthy trees. If the tree is weak, or in training, the buds should be pruned out in the springtime before they open. There's no sense in letting it bloom if you're still training the tree, as it saps energy away from needed growth. That goes for fruit, too. Once the blooming season is over, flowers should be removed and not allowed to go to fruit, unless you intend to use it with your display of the tree (like lovely little crab apples or firethorn). If trees are allowed to bloom, and if further still, fruit, additional fertilizer should be utilized to provide extra nutrition to the tree. As far as proportions go, yes, the flower is definitely going to be out with overall size of the tree, but it's temporary and common with bonsai. I've always thought azalea bonsai looked a mix between stunning and kinda goofy when in bloom for that very reason. It goes back to the very nature of bonsai: the essence of 'tree' in small form. Even world class bonsai, when looked at without the 'aaaaaah' are still very much out of proportion with trees in nature ) leaves, bark, branches, etc. That's some of the difficulty and art of this. How to distill that beauty with so few items! It's damn near impossible to get millions of leaves on such a miniature form, even with species that produce minuscule leaves, like Hokkaido elm. If that is kept in mind, even the over-large flowers aren't so bad! Cheers
Well, yes... But the most stunning bonsai, to my eye, are usually those that capture the 'essence' of a mature, or aged, tree in miniature with nothing so out of proportion that it shatters the illusion. That said, I think I get your point that many beautiful trees can be created and enjoyed that are not quite so convincing in scale. Regardless... your videos are well done and very interesting. Looking forward to more! Updates on trees already featured, and new projects, too!
Mostly a coarse well draining soil, but exact is different depending on the tree. I may also depend on where you live. For me, I use Turface, Diatomic earth, and pine bark. I'll be using more lava rock than diatomic earth next year. Check out the series on Soil Tests. They're got some great info for you, and there are more tests to do.
I will be changing the angle of it's current growing direction (which is more upward) to a slanted position (meaning tilted or leaning). I am doing this for aesthetic reasons, as I find this to be more dynamically pleasing. Once I found the angle I wanted, I marked the nursery can for reference later, and styled it for future display. When I repot this, it will be positioned at this new angle. Does that answer your question?
Many random places over the years. Most of them have come from my local bonsai club. We have an annual auction, and as club members get older they reduce their loads. When they pass, the families donate for our auction. So that's most of them. Some were handmade locally by bonsai friends/potters. Those people are great to know. And lastly, I've bought them at bonsai expos.
Sir, i hav brought a local plant namely Aesias Modesta (botanic name) from nursery for the bonsai purpose. Its length is 2.5 ft. And very small thickness of around 2 cm. It has not any branch but ful of buds. I want to cut its stem near a bud around 3 inch high. Can it be turned into a good looking bonsai tree???
Outside, all year. They're temperate zone trees which thrive in temperate zone conditions. I have some small tropicals I keep indoors during the winter, but they'r back outside as soon as it's warm enough. Our living spaces are more like a desert to these plants than we might realize. Easiest way to kill a typical bonsai is to leave it on the coffee table. Probably more of an answer than you were expecting, but lots of morning coffee can do that to me!! Cheers!!
Taper is going from large to small over distance, like a funnel or a snake's tail. The woody part of trees are large at the bottom and 'taper' towards the tips of branches. It is a natural form that needs to be carried over into our bonsai. 'Reverse taper' is where a large bulbous area forms above ground, which makes everything below skinny. It looks very strange and abnormal. Does that help?
I think you meant, 'How can I create my bonsai with compost, and at what time?" If you use compost, make sure it's sifted between 2-6mm and mixed with gravel. There should be more gravel than compost, ratio about 3:2. We're getting toward the end of repotting for most trees. The best time for deciduous would be late winter - middle of spring.
Very interesting indeed, beautiful trees. But I think your verbal presentation skills could improve. Your general tone sounds weird and inorganic. Hope thats at least a little helpful or constructive...
I really enjoy how these videos focus on the actual collection of trees rather than nursery stock or from seed. This channel is one of the few that really tackles the collection of trees
That's why I did the videos. There's not much in-depth information without deep searching. There wasn't a RUclips when I started, so it was use-common-sense & learn-as-you-go. Collecting trees is no magic trick, but it is my belief the bonsai world doesn't share that knowledge readily, for some good reasons: Inexperience can kill beautiful trees. Trespassing can put a terrible name on the hobby. The ethics of collecting trees may not be fully understood. That's why I try to share what I know, so the novice may be more informed of what they're getting into. Hopefully, the varying messages are getting across. And from your comment, it seems they are! Thank you for watching!
Jestem pod wrażeniem ..pobieranie drzew , sadzonek z natury to też umiejętność i nas początkujących inspiruje .Super będę cię oglądać
Wspaniale! Życzę Ci szczęścia i mam nadzieję, że te filmy dalej pomagają i inspirują! Jeśli masz okazję zobaczyć Waltera Pall'a, kiedy jest w twoim rejonie, to jest fantastyczny!
I love your videos!! you have such a distinct speech pattern I enjoy listening so much. keep up the videos!
Thank you, and I will!
You have an awesome channel right here. I'm surprised I've never seen it before. Great content and nice trees.
Big Thanks! I have a few more vids to post up when the rest of life lets me catch up!
Interesting trees. It takes time to be a beautiful bonsai!
Congratulations on video friend !!!
Great videos. Great attitude. Thanks for your insights and expertise shared. The Privet is a real gem. My two cents on the branches: We often aim for an ideal balance with taper and proportions (not that you are). I see this instinct as a product of our own perception of "perfection" in organic, geometric proportions. I see a relationship with this perspective and our cultural influence defined by the the Vitruvian Man. We tend to personify nature and in our work with bonsai, perhaps this carries over. I see a certain fractal perfection in nature also that influences our work with training bonsai. I believe the fractal map is essential to this work and I see this aesthetic effort as integral to the art. At the crossroads, we see that nature also offers many oddities and anomalies. This is why I love the wild collected material. Long story short, maybe both branches stay and the possibility of a perceived imbalance actually ends up defining this tree's interest after all.
I like it!! I haven't cut the branches on the privet because I still like them, and to me that's most important - it's my tree, and the perceived imbalance adds so much character to it. Many thanks for your insights!
I really like your ideas mate,you make me courage to start again! KEEP IT UP!
very promising material with good potential. Look forward to your updates.
Wow!
I would leave the second trunk in that big hawthorn!
But it´s up to you!
Once again, nice work!
Hope get soon more videos from you!
Hugs.
Many thanks! Will definitely consider.
privet hedge is, in my opinion, one of the most forgiving trees for bonsai or topiary. part of the fun of collecting trees is the "hunt". I like to go out on a beautiful day and can find many trees to collect but I find that it is very hard to decide on which one to collect for bonsai or topiary. Of the two, bonsai and topiary, I think I like designing the topiary for the short term effect I obtain but the bonsai, for me, gives me pleasure when I am working on the tree because of the peace it gives me while working on wiring and pruning. The topiary are some what more labor intensive but as I said it does give me peace when I can work on them. I have one topiary, designed in the cloud formation, that I have had for approximately ten years and has turned out to be a beautiful piece. many people ask me "what is this about" referring to the ten year old topiary....I find that people just don't know about topiary or bonsai in this area. Educating them can be interesting because of their reaction. Thank you for your videos and I am glad to have found your channel......marty in south Carolina
Ben, I like the privets you had on this video. I was back in Va this past summer, and I dug up a coul;e of privets from my brother's hedges and brought them back up to Ak with me. They are budding, but, not as well as I had hoped they would. Maybe as time goes on they'll bud more. I had the cut off most of the foliage and they are slow budding because of that. The parts that had a little foliage left on them are doing quite well. The trees are about 8-10 inches at the base....nice stock to start with, but, we'll see how they do. Looks like your stuff is doing good.
Summer's not the best for collect, but privet can handle it. It may be slow to recovery because of the time of collection. If it survives the winter, it should be strong this spring.
nice specimens Love that Hawthorn that will one hell of a Bonsai tree when worked. Those privets were such a treasure already pre bonsai lol
Awesome! and thank you for the comment!
Like the privet as is ,carve the thick bit if not liked,privets make good indoor trees like focus. Love the haw than as twin trunk as u said and as for the big hawthawn maybe you could cut that side trunk off maybe even save it,difficult to say without seein the base . I would like a laburnum.great vid .cheers
I would air layer the second trunk on the Hawthorn, it would make a great tree by itself. Very good video!
Will definitely consider!
I'm no expert, but if I recall correctly another way to correct and increase lower trunk taper is to continue encouraging root ramification. Letting a low sacrificial branch grow way out helps too while controlling the branches above it.
nice collection thanx for posting , I am looking at getting few bonsai trees for my place, this is how I came across your vide, you have some interesting stuff there.
Many thanks! I hope the videos are helpful, and more are on the way.
Thanks for your videos they are great to watch. I'm in sub-tropical Queensland and so all these plants don't do too well here as we get droughts and heat waves in summer. I know you are growing these trees as bonsais but maybe some can be grown more in a penjing style that is not so formal - it gives a little more scope to take advantage of natural features and doesn't conform so much to bonsai ascetics.
I agree with you. I'm all for natural aesthetics. To me, many bonsai look like triangles and mushroom heads, and I'm sure you know what I mean. They're more art than tree, which is a fine expression for those that want it that way. I think many people outside of Japan and to a degree China, think that this is what bonsai is supposed to be. It isn't. Bonsai is just another means to express one's art through a living material, while still giving the impression of 'tree'. Triangles and mushrooms and broom styles and... whatever, that's just how those particular cultures express themselves in this medium. My views and culture are different. My hope is to make these trees look like what's in my backyard Appalachian mountains, not formal Japanese styles. The old trees growing around me aren't triangles or mushrooms; they're very much rugged and varied in structure, and I love it. I state in my next collection video that the persimmon won't be looking like a formal upright, or windswept, or a pine tree. It's going to be gnarly; more in the vein of Walter Pall, Harry Harrington, and Dan Robinson, and less Kimura, Naka, and Kobayashi. Sacrilege? No. Appalachian Bonsai! I'm not dissing those that wish to present classical Japanese bonsai, as I have learned and continue to learn so many different techniques from them. It's just that my direction and vision is different. Cheers!
I think we're of the same mind set when it comes to most Bonsai. I would much rather see a tree in it natural look, rather than sculpted into a magazine cover, or 3D art. That's just me. I can appreciate and see the beauty in other impressions of Bonsai. You've got a great eye on the present and the future.I'd love to see one of your video's on critiquing Yamadori and what you look for.ThanksSimplySaid
It was nice to see someone else with some privets. You're trunk lines were more interesting than mine. Maybe I should set them on the ground and let the rabbits go at them for a while :-)
Oh, it's the best! Cattle, horses, other livestock (including rabbits!), farming equipment, road maintenance crews - they create all sorts of interesting material! Check Graham Potter - he's got some monster privets! Thank you for the comment!
Sir,I have just subscribed...I am an aspiring Bonsai enthusiast ....and I believe I am local to you. Exit 37 of off I40. My intentions are to grow local fauna. I have a plethora of questions about what local species are even capable of Bonsai treatment. If this channel is meant to be interactive with you I look forward to picking your brain. If not I understand and will just continue to enjoy your videos. All the best to you and yours sir.!
Pick my brain as you wish! Exit 37 should put you just outside of Asheville, which is ~ 3-4 hours south of me. There's an excellent bonsai collection at the NC Arboretum there, and also a very good bonsai club. Check them out! As much advice as you'll get from me here, you'll get loads of it in person with knowledgeable people. They put on an annual bonsai expo every October, which I participate in (look for the next videos, which will highlight this year's).
As far as local material: plenty! These Appalachian mountains have a great deal to offer. Before you dig, make sure you can care for the tree first, otherwise it would have been best to leave it where it was. Secondly, get permission. Species: well, for starters, there's hornbeam, hophornbeam, beech, cherry, persimmon, maple, pitch pine, virginia pine, hawthorn, virginia juniper (a.k.a. red cedar), ... it goes on. You can create bonsai out of most any material, it's just that some are better than others. A rhododendron has beautiful shape, but the leaves won't reduce in size very much. So, if you like their flowers and shape, think about an azalea instead. If you're worried about killing a tree, start of with something cheap at your local garden center. Nursery stock provides some of the best training material before you dig up something in the backyard.
Hope that's helpful and gets you on your way. Feel free to ask more questions - it's what I'm here for
I like all your videos mate. I hope you upload new videos more often ;)
Thank you for that! I've several hours of footage that needs to be condensed down, but some technical issues & summer fun have gotten in the way. I just need to put my tail in the seat & finish the rest. Keep watching, I've a few coming up!
Nice video. I love privet for bonsai. I have a couple in my collection
Awesome!!
Just getting into the hobby and discovered your channel. I love the collection videos, very informative and it's great to see how these trees are doing. You mention that you're fertilizing these heavily. This is something I'm trying to figure out for myself, so more detail would be great. Also, I would be tempted to be pruning those lower sucker shoots to direct more energy upwards, but I gather from your videos that this wouldn't be recommended?
I fertilize heavily because I want the branches to grow quickly. Once the tree becomes more mature & defined, I'll reduce the fertilizer to limit the growth. Too much fertilizer on a matured bonsai can create unwanted growth that will ruin the shape. That said, the extra fertilizer allows the sucker shoots to grow without starving the top, which is beginning to become more refined. I'll thicken the base, then prune them off before the create too large a scar. It just takes practice, that's all!
Best of luck with the hobby! It's awesome, and I'm glad you enjoy the videos. Hope you'll find them helpful for your bonsai future!
Thanks so much!
I miss your regular updates!
Me too! Time skips away from me these days. If only it were a full-time (paying) job, I would be on board all the time!
Très belle avenir pour l'aubépine double troncs ...👍 super bravo
You are natural, love your videos, subscribed !
#929
👍
Fantastic!!
Great works. Anyway, I was thinking if I had a house and a buddy like you (who likes to collect material from nature) around Hattiesburg MS, I would have many many good bonsai........
They may be out there already! I've some friends in Jackson that love playing in the woods, though they don't do bonsai. My friend that helps me doesn't keep bonsai, but he loves a good walk about! Search around, ask a friend, or find a bonsai club near you. Sometimes you never know until you ask! Good luck!
Another great video ..
I'm looking for an American Hornbeam, they are hard to find in upstate NY :) - love your videos, thanks!
They should be available in your area. I find them mostly in riparian areas and near creaks/rivers, though I have found several randomly on hillsides. If you have American Beech growing near you, you might find these other beauties in the same vicinity.
Good material and wise words.
Thx for the vid.
greets
Kennet
Thank you for that! You've some beautiful trees as well!
Hey, love your vids. Very informative. I was wondering if you considered air layering that second trunk of that big Hawthorne if you decide to remove it. In the time you are letting it grow, and get healthy you could have yourself a decent air layer. Just a thought. Keep up the vids they’re great 👍.
that green hawthorn though!!!
Yeah, it's a beaut! A few more years & we might actually see a more solid glimpse of the future
great job.
Thank you.
nice bonsai!
Hi, I am Florin, from Romania, I would like to say I'm new in bonsai but not sure I'm there, maybe I'm new in loving watching bonsai.... I have few questions :
- Collecting in March - April, potted, let it grow, cut back in ... September - October ?
That's the start for collected material such as what I've shown. You can also use trees bought from local tree nurseries, which is a common thing to do. Pruning in late fall (Sept - Oct) is preparing the dormant tree for spring growth. It is different for trees that are already established in the pots for a few years. I'll explain more in coming videos. Keep watching, and thanks!
i like the specimens you collected. all seem to be recovering well. air-layering might improve most of them unless you want large bonsai. since these are all in training, wouldn't fabric pots, air pots or large colanders be better for the roots ? any particular reason you are using bonsai pots ?
No particular reason to use the bonsai pots except that they were what I had on hand! With the exception of the first privet, all the pots are plastic nursery cans or cheap mica training pots with extra holes drilled in for drainage. They seem to work well without restricting water flow, and my soil mixture is very coarse - must be watered almost every day. I've several small trees, but I'm really excited to work on the larger material for a change. Thank you for the comment!
I like the secondary trunk
Obrigado. Belo Trabalho.🏡
Abraços!
Do Hawthorne trees take well to layering? If so, maybe you could layer off that large secondary trunk?
I might, but I don't find it very interesting just by itself. If it had some crazy curves, deadwood, funky branches that I couldn't pass up, I might.
very nice good!!!!!!
Thank you
Nice video! I've subscribed. But could you please not say, "As you can see" so often? I had a professor who used to say, "Ahh" between every sentence and it was difficult not to lose my concentration on what he was trying to tell us. Anyway, a really good video and I am now going to scout out more of your work! Thank you!
Haha!! My wife said the same thing after I posted this. I really appreciate it. If I had a booger in my nose, I'd want someone to say, and if a speech pattern is continually repeated, I'd want someone to point it out. It's an excellent comment. Thanks
Appalachian Bonsai
I am happy you didn't think I was just trying to make trouble. You're not the only one who says that. Another really good bonsai RUclipsr does the exact same thing. I am not going to tell you his name .... or maybe her name. Anyway your videos are VERY GOOD and I appreciate you making them. BTW: there's a booger in your nose at 5:26 in this video: Only joking! :)
I'm on good terms with other bonsai RUclipsrs - I learn from them, and they learn from me. We comment on each others' videos, because we love learning about bonsai!... And actually, the booger is in my nose here: ruclips.net/video/_iHs0GqkVdg/видео.html - Cheers!
Great view.. does your country have Streblus Asper trees for bonsai?
in our country this tree is very popular for making bonsai
I've never used it, but it might be more recognizable in Florida or California, as their climates would be more friendly to them. But very cool!
i love it..
i like this bonsai so much...
Thank you!!
Your soil looks light and ideal for bonsai.
Do you mix your own, and if so, are you open to sharing your recipe?
Thanks. Descriptions of my mix should be in the descriptions of each tree video, but if I miss them: 3x Turface MVP: 3x Pine Bark: 2x Diatomaceous Earth: 1x Sand. All sifted to 2-6mm (1/16" - 1/4")
Can you give me a tip on your fertilizing regiment for your american hornbeams?
Definitely! I have the same regimen with hornbeams as I do with all species. Across the board, once buds start opening up, I begin fertilizing once every 10-14 days. If buds are breaking, then the tree is growing - that's the time to fertilize. Timing also depends on whether recently collected or already established. With a newly collected tree (buds or not), I allow the tree to recover first & wait until new buds break - usually within 4-6 weeks. With established trees just repotted, I give them two to three weeks before beginning fertilizer. I start backing off fertilizer as fall dormancy approaches, and add some rooting hormone if I remember to (roots do lots of growing in the late summer/early fall).
Concerning my fertilizer: something relatively balanced on the NKP (10-10-10), and cheap! I have many trees, so I keep cost in mind. Follow the recommended instructions/dosage on the box/bottle. My soil drains very well, so even a higher number NKP isn't going to stay in my soil very long. I alternate between a commercial fertilizer & an organic, occasionally mixing in a dose of iron & micro-nutrients.
Hope that's helpful, and thank you for the comment!
I have found a hawthorn in a farmers field that is 1 foot tall with a 6 inch wide trunk and surprisingly, the branches taper out from the trunk without any breaks or chops, its got incredibly dense foliage, I think the sheep that graze that field have been eating the new shoots for years keeping it small and the rocky ground has also stopped its roots going too far down. I want to collect it (after getting the farmers permission of course) but I am scared of killing it as I've never collected big trees before and I know that old hawthorns are sensitive to having their roots disturbed. Have you got any advice? Also, what would be the BEST time of year to attempt to collect it with minimal risk of losing it?
It's getting too late into the season now to collect, but early spring is a fine time. Mid-to-late fall is also considered a good time, since roots to lots of growth just before winter. I don't do much autumn collecting, but Harry Harrington of Britain does lots of it, especially hawthorns. Keep an eye on his website or his Instagram posts for timing. A problem that can happen in springtime collecting of hawthorns (depending on where you live) is cedar-apple rust. It can weaken or kill a tree, especially if it's just been collected. The wet spring weather facilitates it, so autumn may be a better time for you. I wish you lots of luck!!
I think the best thing I can do is be patient. My current plan is to cut about half of the tap roots out covering the ends in rooting compound and sphagnum and leave it in the ground for a year letting new feeder roots grow, then come back doing the same to the other half so that all of the tap roots have been replaced with lots of fine roots before I dig it out. It might take 2 years but it will mean that the tree will never go without a good root system. I might even feed it a few times between to help it along. Do you think I should do the root cutting in autumn to avoid the cedar-apple rust you mentioned?
Great video. What feed do you use? Thanks
The more trees I collect or acquire, the more I veer towards cheaper fertilizer. I mostly use basic Miracle Grow, with some hydroponic micronutrients mixed in, feeding full strength according to instructions every two weeks. The soil drains really well, so I don't worry about it staying in the pot & burning roots. In the past, I've also used an organic fish emulsion, but it attracts animals (mainly raccoons & my dogs), and left behind a crusty scum, so I'm finishing that off and not using anymore. Some people say to switch back & forth, others say just find one good balanced.
Thanks for that.
Appalachian Bonsai good info
What soil do you use when putting new collected trees in the large pots like this one?
Same mix as my other trees: Turface, Pine Bark, Diatomaceous Earth, Sand. Ratio 3:3:2:0.5 Coarsely sifted between 2-6mm
Love the videos! Where do you get those pots?
Usually bonsai expos or auctions.
@@AppalachianBonsai I'm just trying to start with found and nursery material and the lack of pot sources almost has me quitting. I can't imagine the wealth it must require for some of the YTers I see who have stacks of pots to choose from. The prices are staggeringly stupid IF you can find them for sale anywhere.
On the dogwood, my understanding is that while leaves may reduce well, but flowers and fruits will not. So, crabapples make better bonsai subjects than dessert apple trees. Won't the large flowers, bracts actually, overpower a small bonsai? Would it be better, maybe, to grow a dogwood as a larger bonsai?
The flowers do extract lots of energy, which is why it is best to allow the flowers to bloom only on healthy trees. If the tree is weak, or in training, the buds should be pruned out in the springtime before they open. There's no sense in letting it bloom if you're still training the tree, as it saps energy away from needed growth. That goes for fruit, too. Once the blooming season is over, flowers should be removed and not allowed to go to fruit, unless you intend to use it with your display of the tree (like lovely little crab apples or firethorn). If trees are allowed to bloom, and if further still, fruit, additional fertilizer should be utilized to provide extra nutrition to the tree.
As far as proportions go, yes, the flower is definitely going to be out with overall size of the tree, but it's temporary and common with bonsai. I've always thought azalea bonsai looked a mix between stunning and kinda goofy when in bloom for that very reason. It goes back to the very nature of bonsai: the essence of 'tree' in small form. Even world class bonsai, when looked at without the 'aaaaaah' are still very much out of proportion with trees in nature ) leaves, bark, branches, etc. That's some of the difficulty and art of this. How to distill that beauty with so few items! It's damn near impossible to get millions of leaves on such a miniature form, even with species that produce minuscule leaves, like Hokkaido elm. If that is kept in mind, even the over-large flowers aren't so bad! Cheers
Well, yes... But the most stunning bonsai, to my eye, are usually those that capture the 'essence' of a mature, or aged, tree in miniature with nothing so out of proportion that it shatters the illusion.
That said, I think I get your point that many beautiful trees can be created and enjoyed that are not quite so convincing in scale.
Regardless... your videos are well done and very interesting. Looking forward to more! Updates on trees already featured, and new projects, too!
Hi, what kind of substrate do you put on each tree?
Mostly a coarse well draining soil, but exact is different depending on the tree. I may also depend on where you live. For me, I use Turface, Diatomic earth, and pine bark. I'll be using more lava rock than diatomic earth next year. Check out the series on Soil Tests. They're got some great info for you, and there are more tests to do.
nice love
Could you discuss more about "slanting" the tree?
I will be changing the angle of it's current growing direction (which is more upward) to a slanted position (meaning tilted or leaning). I am doing this for aesthetic reasons, as I find this to be more dynamically pleasing. Once I found the angle I wanted, I marked the nursery can for reference later, and styled it for future display. When I repot this, it will be positioned at this new angle. Does that answer your question?
Got it, thanks!
Can you do mimosa? I know it is not native but just curious.
It has been done by others. Worth a shot?
Where do you purchase your bonsai pots?
Many random places over the years. Most of them have come from my local bonsai club. We have an annual auction, and as club members get older they reduce their loads. When they pass, the families donate for our auction. So that's most of them. Some were handmade locally by bonsai friends/potters. Those people are great to know. And lastly, I've bought them at bonsai expos.
Sir, i hav brought a local plant namely Aesias Modesta (botanic name) from nursery for the bonsai purpose. Its length is 2.5 ft. And very small thickness of around 2 cm. It has not any branch but ful of buds. I want to cut its stem near a bud around 3 inch high.
Can it be turned into a good looking bonsai tree???
I've never tried it before, but that doesn't mean it can't become one. Try it out and let me know!
@@AppalachianBonsai thank u boss, certainly i would let u know.
Why don,t you air layer the small branch?
It would look great as a separate tree! Trustyjusty
AAAAhhh... too late... I just cut it back last weekend. Next time, I'll trust the just.
👍
de beau arbres en devenir
On the large hawthorn remove second trunk
I'm with you on that
4:06 cette aubépine. Oh !
DO YOU KEEP THEM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE
Outside, all year. They're temperate zone trees which thrive in temperate zone conditions. I have some small tropicals I keep indoors during the winter, but they'r back outside as soon as it's warm enough. Our living spaces are more like a desert to these plants than we might realize. Easiest way to kill a typical bonsai is to leave it on the coffee table. Probably more of an answer than you were expecting, but lots of morning coffee can do that to me!! Cheers!!
Only cut half of the thick branch off
Hawthorn or privet?
+Appalachian Bonsai privet :)
Can somebody explain, what is taper precisely
Taper is going from large to small over distance, like a funnel or a snake's tail. The woody part of trees are large at the bottom and 'taper' towards the tips of branches. It is a natural form that needs to be carried over into our bonsai. 'Reverse taper' is where a large bulbous area forms above ground, which makes everything below skinny. It looks very strange and abnormal. Does that help?
@@AppalachianBonsai thank u sir
Or air layer
Yo nigga, get dem sacrifice branches on da base of dat privet trunk, thickin it up dawg.
On it!
holw. Can l feartleas may bonsai by compost tea and how at month
I think you meant, 'How can I create my bonsai with compost, and at what time?" If you use compost, make sure it's sifted between 2-6mm and mixed with gravel. There should be more gravel than compost, ratio about 3:2. We're getting toward the end of repotting for most trees. The best time for deciduous would be late winter - middle of spring.
@@AppalachianBonsai very thanks
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Very interesting indeed, beautiful trees. But I think your verbal presentation skills could improve. Your general tone sounds weird and inorganic. Hope thats at least a little helpful or constructive...
I've been told it's almost robotic. [[They're catching on The revolution has been breached! ]]
fake metode