I’ve been using a similar set up for years. Even the same shop vac. Pro tip for you, use a dust bag in your vac, you can pic them up in the same isle at your favorite box store. Saves your filter and seriously has no dust! As always, great vids!
You are one of the coolest guys on RUclips Brian. I appreciate all the videos you make and the information you share. I've commented years ago on several other vids, but in short, I am so amazed at how the technology has evolved in this game. 30 years ago when I was panel beating and spraying cars, we rarely used PPE and I was always covered in dust and debris. I used to sometimes even spray cars in my garage without a mask. Yep. I'm still alive thankfully. I did eventually get myself a Sundstrom respirator but it's old now, so a new one will be needed. I was young and stupid and bullet proof too.. lol.. I am going to get back in the game soon to finish off a project car I've had for decades and am having to re-learn everything from scratch. Your videos have been helpful in this regard. Thanks mate
Man, I've been watching your videos for not so long, but I can say it's really different than in Mexico, in one of your videos that I've watched before you said "We are dealing with chemichals and chemicals need time to dry, you should not be rushing this chemicals", man, that really hits hard, one of the reasons why I stopped working as a bodyman here in Mexico it's that we always got to be in a hurry, In the 4 different shops I've worked and the other 3 my boss and coworkers they told me about, all of them were always like this, they never let stuff dry according to instructions. One example of what we did it's when using body filler, we would just wait till it gets kinda hard (like 5 min or less) and sand it with an 80 and 120 grit, we don't even use sanders, just blocks, neither guides, to know if something was straight or correct our only guide was by feeling with our hands, then we would primer it, resting time between layers, it was like: does it look wet? if the answer was no ,then the next layer would go on, not even 2 minutes for letting it dry, then, does it look straight? if the answer was yes, then we we use a thing called plaster (I've been told that in the US it's not used anymore) to fill the sand paper marks, then wait to let it dry, and again after sanding all plaster another layer of primer would be sprayed on and basically repeat what I said before, wait like 15 to 20 min to sand it to let the primer get dry enough to sand it with a 500 grit, and clean with a cleaning rag and water with soap, like the one for dishes (literally) for getting the car ready for paint, painting the car was almost the same case as primer, does it look wet? no, next coat, the only thing that we would let dry almost often like instructions indicate it would be the clear coat unless we were in a hurry , then it's taking the car or piece out to the sun or using the heat g.un if it was cold, then polish it the next day or in like 4 hours if we were in a hurry, if it's polishing a whole car, for example I remember a fiesta that was painted complete, and the time to sand it, it took me like 2-3 hours of sanding it by hand with a 1000 and 1500 grit, and it took like 2-3 hours for my boss to polish it with green and pink polish, because at the time we wanted to finish it fast and my boss always complained that I polished way too slow, it definitely would have taken me like 4-5 hours, then washing the car, clean the interiors, wax and that was it. So you can have an Idea of how fast and in a hurry sometimes we were, the fastest job me and my boss ever done was a right fender from a Jetta from a you could say a vip customer that was also the cousin of my boss, the lowest part had a huge dent because it hit a big rock, I prepared everything for painting, basically I just grinded it, straightened the steek the most I could, put some body filler and plaster, primer and that was it, it took me between 22 and 27 minutes, can't remember very well, but it was FAST, have in mind that everything was done by hand except the grinding part. Another 20 minutes for my boss to paint it with clear coat and it was finished, we would have taken more time but we already had that color. It kinda always annoyed me when we were in a hurry or wouldn't respect the procedures and other stuff, even my boss and one coworker made fun of me after mentioning the procedures, maybe I be would still working as a bodyman if I were in the US. If you don't mind, I would like to ask, how much does it take to finish a whole car? like a car with dents and everything, because I'm curious since it looks like you take your time for everything.
Thats a great product. Went to purchase it. Out of stock till the 12th of May. Got my $10 off coupon though. Thanks for showing how it works. Excellent content as always.
To save your pleated filters from clogging up as much, get some pool socks. Pull one over the filter. The heavy stuff piles up on it - then when the vac turns off, the bulk of it fall off if you give the vac a shake.
Brian, Ive been watching your videos since day 1. Thank you for being the anchor in a world of misinformation in the refinishing/body world. One question, is there a specific facebook group or youtube (general not honda/acura focused) channel you would recomend for the service side? Or anyone else here for that matter. I have a tough time finding a good channel for generic automotive service learning.
use the blue shop vac filters,, if you get fine dust Saw on an OSH course that fines pass through the white ones. a neighbor said they always get a film that gums up on the filler that you have sacrifice a piece of sandpaper to get that off
@@jamesleicher Definitely. I have the same vac for my construction business. They make 2 different bags. A general purpose bag & and "fine dust" bag for when I'm working with something like drywall or finish sanding off woodworks (cabinets & finish)
@@doofusmaguilacutee4998 I worked with festool don't own one but they good.I got one like that shop vac but its a ryobi I bag it then dump.have not seen the advance shop vac brand here in Australia,some times getting parts say like home depo because they agent is like pulling a elephant tusk out elephant ,know what I mean lol
I must have been living in a hole for the 40+ years I have been in body and paint because I have never heard anyone refer to glazing compound as icing. Also, I spent probably 25 to 30 of those years (like everyone else) mixing filler on a piece of cardboard cut from a paint box.
I am painting after market tailgate its ben primed don't know if it has primer sealer on it should I use 400 on it then seal it . After I seal it do I have to scuff it up for paint or paint right over sealer.
Where do you recommend getting paint and reducer from, i have a miata in emerald mica i wamt to repaint and not sure how to go about color matching and sourcing the paint
hello, i was wondering what budget paint should i use for on my chassis and wheel wells, i want a paint that hardens enough so it wont chip or scratch but also is resistant to chemicals like gasoline and oil and also protected from uv. what would you guys recommend for that?
Hey Brian, Great video as usual. I was wondering if you have any tips to get my sealer less peely? I use PPG ECS sealers and my sealer gun is a Tekna Prolite with a TE20 and a 1.3 set up.
The dust will pass through the vacuum cleaner you should use another vacuum cleaner with water filter Also because the pipe is smaller than the original the vacuum cleaner will heat up faster because the air flow decreased and it will cut off more frequently than normal
How come you skip the part I want to see in every single video you start off with everything else except the start and that’s just from me clicking on 12+ of your videos
This is a commercial for Eastwood. Lots of their body shop products are useless. They are just a notch above Harbor Freight. Thanks, I am unsubscribing to your channel.
Your focused on the wrong stuff if your focusing on the tools. The tools are not important. The technique and the process is what's important. You can get shit results with expensive tools and bad techniques and not following the proper procedures and you can get great results doing things properly with less expensive tools. It's all dependent on the person doing the job and how they do the job. I do this stuff everyday and I dont use expensive tools. That's a neat block he uses for the sanding. I dont use one near as fancy but I guarantee you if he halfasses his sanding with that and I halfass the sanding with mine we will both get the same crap results. Dont focus on the tool focus on doing things correctly.
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
@11:00 - "It's pretty much sitting there not getting sucked" - I've never been able to relate more to a pile of dust than this moment.
I’ve been using a similar set up for years. Even the same shop vac. Pro tip for you, use a dust bag in your vac, you can pic them up in the same isle at your favorite box store. Saves your filter and seriously has no dust! As always, great vids!
Great idea !
You are one of the coolest guys on RUclips Brian. I appreciate all the videos you make and the information you share. I've commented years ago on several other vids, but in short, I am so amazed at how the technology has evolved in this game. 30 years ago when I was panel beating and spraying cars, we rarely used PPE and I was always covered in dust and debris. I used to sometimes even spray cars in my garage without a mask. Yep. I'm still alive thankfully. I did eventually get myself a Sundstrom respirator but it's old now, so a new one will be needed.
I was young and stupid and bullet proof too.. lol..
I am going to get back in the game soon to finish off a project car I've had for decades and am having to re-learn everything from scratch. Your videos have been helpful in this regard.
Thanks mate
Thank you! Glad you enjoy
Man, I've been watching your videos for not so long, but I can say it's really different than in Mexico, in one of your videos that I've watched before you said "We are dealing with chemichals and chemicals need time to dry, you should not be rushing this chemicals", man, that really hits hard, one of the reasons why I stopped working as a bodyman here in Mexico it's that we always got to be in a hurry, In the 4 different shops I've worked and the other 3 my boss and coworkers they told me about, all of them were always like this, they never let stuff dry according to instructions. One example of what we did it's when using body filler, we would just wait till it gets kinda hard (like 5 min or less) and sand it with an 80 and 120 grit, we don't even use sanders, just blocks, neither guides, to know if something was straight or correct our only guide was by feeling with our hands, then we would primer it, resting time between layers, it was like: does it look wet? if the answer was no ,then the next layer would go on, not even 2 minutes for letting it dry, then, does it look straight? if the answer was yes, then we we use a thing called plaster (I've been told that in the US it's not used anymore) to fill the sand paper marks, then wait to let it dry, and again after sanding all plaster another layer of primer would be sprayed on and basically repeat what I said before, wait like 15 to 20 min to sand it to let the primer get dry enough to sand it with a 500 grit, and clean with a cleaning rag and water with soap, like the one for dishes (literally) for getting the car ready for paint, painting the car was almost the same case as primer, does it look wet? no, next coat, the only thing that we would let dry almost often like instructions indicate it would be the clear coat unless we were in a hurry , then it's taking the car or piece out to the sun or using the heat g.un if it was cold, then polish it the next day or in like 4 hours if we were in a hurry, if it's polishing a whole car, for example I remember a fiesta that was painted complete, and the time to sand it, it took me like 2-3 hours of sanding it by hand with a 1000 and 1500 grit, and it took like 2-3 hours for my boss to polish it with green and pink polish, because at the time we wanted to finish it fast and my boss always complained that I polished way too slow, it definitely would have taken me like 4-5 hours, then washing the car, clean the interiors, wax and that was it.
So you can have an Idea of how fast and in a hurry sometimes we were, the fastest job me and my boss ever done was a right fender from a Jetta from a you could say a vip customer that was also the cousin of my boss, the lowest part had a huge dent because it hit a big rock, I prepared everything for painting, basically I just grinded it, straightened the steek the most I could, put some body filler and plaster, primer and that was it, it took me between 22 and 27 minutes, can't remember very well, but it was FAST, have in mind that everything was done by hand except the grinding part. Another 20 minutes for my boss to paint it with clear coat and it was finished, we would have taken more time but we already had that color.
It kinda always annoyed me when we were in a hurry or wouldn't respect the procedures and other stuff, even my boss and one coworker made fun of me after mentioning the procedures, maybe I be would still working as a bodyman if I were in the US. If you don't mind, I would like to ask, how much does it take to finish a whole car? like a car with dents and everything, because I'm curious since it looks like you take your time for everything.
Wow. Awesome comment. Thanks for sharing. Sometimes a car with full dents and mild restoration can take 2-3 weeks
Thats a great product. Went to purchase it. Out of stock till the 12th of May. Got my $10 off coupon though. Thanks for showing how it works. Excellent content as always.
They just are developing the product so you’ll be one of the first to have it
Hey David, These are still on presale, but they are shipping out next week!
To save your pleated filters from clogging up as much, get some pool socks. Pull one over the filter. The heavy stuff piles up on it - then when the vac turns off, the bulk of it fall off if you give the vac a shake.
I just got mines today can't wait to try it
Im so happy ive found this channel
Brian, Ive been watching your videos since day 1. Thank you for being the anchor in a world of misinformation in the refinishing/body world.
One question, is there a specific facebook group or youtube (general not honda/acura focused) channel you would recomend for the service side?
Or anyone else here for that matter. I have a tough time finding a good channel for generic automotive service learning.
use the blue shop vac filters,, if you get fine dust Saw on an OSH course that fines pass through the white ones. a neighbor said they always get a film that gums up on the filler that you have sacrifice a piece of sandpaper to get that off
needs a bag for shop vac
again could be for demo
@@jamesleicher Definitely. I have the same vac for my construction business. They make 2 different bags. A general purpose bag & and "fine dust" bag for when I'm working with something like drywall or finish sanding off woodworks (cabinets & finish)
@@doofusmaguilacutee4998 I worked with festool don't own one but they good.I got one like that shop vac but its a ryobi I bag it then dump.have not seen the advance shop vac brand here in Australia,some times getting parts say like home depo because they agent is like pulling a elephant tusk out elephant ,know what I mean lol
Great video. Can you do a video on sealing up the home garage to keep paint fumes out of the home?
Use a bag I the shop vac and put a pool skimmer bag around that vac filter. Just like sanding drywall dust
I must have been living in a hole for the 40+ years I have been in body and paint because I have never heard anyone refer to glazing compound as icing. Also, I spent probably 25 to 30 of those years (like everyone else) mixing filler on a piece of cardboard cut from a paint box.
Cool. Thanks for sharing your experience
Awesome products, !
You should do some detailing videos
I am painting after market tailgate its ben primed don't know if it has primer sealer on it should I use 400 on it then seal it . After I seal it do I have to scuff it up for paint or paint right over sealer.
So if you did a da you would just stick with 180 before prime or would you still take it to 320?
Where do you recommend getting paint and reducer from, i have a miata in emerald mica i wamt to repaint and not sure how to go about color matching and sourcing the paint
ney schop is nice.
hello, i was wondering what budget paint should i use for on my chassis and wheel wells, i want a paint that hardens enough so it wont chip or scratch but also is resistant to chemicals like gasoline and oil and also protected from uv. what would you guys recommend for that?
is there any chance you can do a primer video the same way you do the paint ones, id just like to see how you do it n hopefully learn from that
Doing it today😊
super
Hey Brian, Great video as usual. I was wondering if you have any tips to get my sealer less peely? I use PPG ECS sealers and my sealer gun is a Tekna Prolite with a TE20 and a 1.3 set up.
Not to familiar with those sealers but you can try adding 10% reducer to the mix to help
The te20 cap is a clear cap change to hv30 one
Nice
The dust will pass through the vacuum cleaner you should use another vacuum cleaner with water filter
Also because the pipe is smaller than the original the vacuum cleaner will heat up faster because the air flow decreased and it will cut off more frequently than normal
Are you located in Orlando or South Florida?
Hi Brian is it allright to start with 120 sand paper instead of 80. Thanks
Start with whatever you want you’ll figure it out
Which sand paper should be used for primer sanding
40 grit
👍🔥
Brian, are there any circumstances under which you would thin clear with a reducer?
If it’s very hot and it doesn’t flow. You can use 10% reducer
how does the eastwood system compare to the cheaper 3m vacuum system which is a bit cheaper?
Not sure which you mean.
I've noticed no one ever wet sands body filler. I've had good luck with wet sanding. Any thoughts?
No. Because the body filler will absorb
My filler mix kicks a lot faster than your demo did.
Why? I use A Bondo filler
💪🏾💪🏾👌🏽
Oooooooooft 😮
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👌🏼😎
How come you skip the part I want to see in every single video you start off with everything else except the start and that’s just from me clicking on 12+ of your videos
??
This is a commercial for Eastwood. Lots of their body shop products are useless. They are just a notch above Harbor Freight. Thanks, I am unsubscribing to your channel.
See ya!
please stop using high end products show people what you can get on the lower end
all eastwood products are expensive
Ok great! Sounds good. I’ll do my next video with wal mart products
Eastwood products are on the cheaper end of things.
Your focused on the wrong stuff if your focusing on the tools. The tools are not important. The technique and the process is what's important. You can get shit results with expensive tools and bad techniques and not following the proper procedures and you can get great results doing things properly with less expensive tools. It's all dependent on the person doing the job and how they do the job. I do this stuff everyday and I dont use expensive tools. That's a neat block he uses for the sanding. I dont use one near as fancy but I guarantee you if he halfasses his sanding with that and I halfass the sanding with mine we will both get the same crap results. Dont focus on the tool focus on doing things correctly.
Hey A Profile (if that's even your real name), feel free to check out other vacuum systems on the market, we are the most affordable by far!
how good is the vac system on vertical panels anyone