I've done a couple keyboard only replacements for these. It is as much of a hassle as you can imagine. Full keyboard and chasis replacements are definitely the way to go.
@Adamant_IT Pro tip from an Authorized Service Provider when pulling those pull tabs: Wrap the pull tab around the end of some tweezers (straight-end tweezers) and gently rotate the tweezers to pull the tape out from underneath the speakers and battery. Never once had one break when using this method.
if you no these stuff just question how to configure the display or you can't i mean in repair like this because the top case in MacBook air its not configure any whey just the display and logic bord need to configure and the configuration only in Authorized service
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I’ve done a few of these, I found if you use a pair of tweezers and wrap the pull tab round them and just twirl it round to remove the tab, it’s worked 90% of the time for me
For Batteries in future use IPA and a small Syringe and put some under the battery it will help soften the adhesive and make them easier to come off using a pry tool
Having replaced a keyboard on one of these top cases I can confirm it’s possible, but a nightmare I don’t plan on experiencing again. The keyboard is riveted in…so you have to cut the tops, drill out screw holes for each rivet, and then put screws in to hold the new keyboard. It’s terribly time consuming.
Yea =/ The Retina series were about my limit - had to rip out rivets on those, but at least you could then just put screws in for the new keyboard without treating the holes. If you've got to start drilling out the holes, no way that's worth the time and hassle vs a good condition-used chassis.
first off, you are not supposed to cut the rivets, use some fine wire cutters to grab and pull it straight but slowly, there are screws meant to remplace those rivets but if the rivets break in half and a rivet chunk stays in there, it will not go in properly.
@@Neo_AIO You can not pull the rivets out , they are a part of the plastic molding and the heads which have been heat molded over have to be cut off . Watch a few videos on the subject and you will understand what a nightmare they are
Hello nice video like another videos on this channel. For speaker tapes you need stretch from start in one press not use finger on start point because cause more pressure and tape was broken.
i hate the speaker adhesive so much but with a tweezer its easy to remove gently rotate the tweezers to pull the adhesive out and also the Squair small shield in back of trackpad use to calibration clicking and feedback in Authorized Service when we order the trackpad its come with 3 size S and M and Large first start with medium size and check and thane do calibration but this in Authorized Service only i mean the calibration but i just wanna ask how to configure the display ?
NOOB Question: I was testing voltages on a working Mac AIR & there was a “spark”. Then it basically “shorted” (I guess) and now instead oh 8.6v where expected, I get ~2.3v. I was testing a small inductor (the inductor that looks like an MLCC Capacitor (whitish) near backlight circuit). I’m not sure what I did wrong. I see Louis & Adamant test LIVE voltages but I obviously screwed up. Any ideas or recommendations on what I might have done? THANK YOU. 🙏 I wanted to create a spreadsheet of voltages at various points to compare with non working logic board.
@@daytonagreg8765 you prob accidentaly put vcc backligt straight to the backlight circuit Edit Tldr vcc backlight + ground = bad Either you can replace the ic or mosfet that responsible for backlight voltage but that just my guest
@@toseltreps1101 Someone with actual experience (clearly not you) has no doubt made noob mistakes along they way and could explain certain actions that would cause “a spark”. My background is software development, & I’m just starting to understand basic testing. I also know, for a fact, that if this happened to me, it’s happened to at least a thousand other people (again, clearly not you) who could provide insight.
I had an Asus laptop that someone had spilt a whole cup of coffee over the keyboard. I left it to dry out for a week and plugged it in, it worked fine so I told the owner to plug in a keyboard or use a BT one as replacing the keyboard is almost impossible with the plastic welds. The cost of replacing he keyboard was also ridiculous with 2 hours of labour and parts making the repair more than 3-5 times the value of the laptop.
I would definitely advise, to put at least a small strip of double-sided tape underneath the "long portion" of the speakers. If this long portion is left completely "floating", it might start to rattle at some frequencies at higher volumes. This is quite hard to actually test, so I would rather be safe than sorry. Otherwise flawlessly done - thumbs up!
No, the chassis is aluminium and not plastic. It requires quite a bit of force to bend aluminium. If that did happen then they would have had to kick or punch the screen closed but then you would have experienced a cracked screen too. It was stood on whilst open from the looks of it.
Hello o/ My inbox tends to get swamped, I do what I can but sometimes messages get missed in the stream. The best way to get hold of me is by phone or to pop into the shop!
Depends on the use case really... General laptop 2.5" HDD replacement, Crucial MX500. Budget NVMe Drive for PC, probably a Crucial P3 or P3 plus, depending on pricing. High performance NVMe, Samsung or WD Black.
Your loss. After getting this tank of a 14 Pro Max after spending my entire life on Android, I can confidently say I’m never going back to those watered down Linux phones.
I watch your video's because i am planning someday to design custom simple circuit board for smart home system and connect it with central pc which is very expensive or not perfect if you buy it or third-party do it for you i hoop that you someday start tutorial for somekind of building custom simple circuit (for example i live in Netherland and i think also in England you can find the cheap smart lamp that you can connect to app to control it cost 17€ the app allow you to connect as many same brand as you like but i need to control many other stuff like smoking alarms and other lamp but from different normal good brand and finally robot vacuum cleaner) and then design custom app to control all of them at once yo save more time and energy thanks
The only thing that would cause an issue to the customer is problably software related since true tone will no longer work and those remplacement displays are not color calibrated.
@@UserUser-ww2nj because i'm a repairman also 😅 screen remplacements is something common, true tone gets disabled if you don't keep the original light sensor.And stop calling people a joke 🤣, i've been in the business for more than 3 years. This is an apple bs calibration issue, look at an original screen and the replacement one next to each other, white colors appear yellowish or blueish depending on the panel.
I'm impressed with how calm you are with this amount of screws. No laptop needs that amount of screws and small parts
I've done a couple keyboard only replacements for these. It is as much of a hassle as you can imagine. Full keyboard and chasis replacements are definitely the way to go.
@Adamant_IT Pro tip from an Authorized Service Provider when pulling those pull tabs: Wrap the pull tab around the end of some tweezers (straight-end tweezers) and gently rotate the tweezers to pull the tape out from underneath the speakers and battery. Never once had one break when using this method.
nope this breaks for me using this method all the time. I recommend when pulling the tabs to pull to the left or right not just straight out.
That's exactly what I do with these pull tabs and they come out no problem 90% of the time..
if you no these stuff just question how to configure the display or you can't i mean in repair like this
because the top case in MacBook air its not configure any whey just the display and logic bord need to configure and the configuration only in Authorized service
A very smooth and satisfying repair. Thanks for sharing.
Done watching, thank you very much for the informative repair video. I have learned significantly more troubleshooting & repair lessons in this tutorial video and to your other repair videos as well compared to my ENTIRE 4 YEARS OF COLLEGE due to the rotten & outdated standards of education here in the Philippines. I hope you will soon have a mini-series for Schematic & Boardview-free Voltage/Power Rail Tracing[12V/18-20V Main Voltage Rail, 5V, 3.3V, CPU/GPU Core Voltage Rail, DRAM Voltage Rail, IGPU Voltage Rail, System Agent/Northbridge Voltage Rail, PCH Voltage Rail, BIOS Voltage Rail, Battery Power Rail], Proper method of testing/checking of potentially faulty MOSFETs & ICs/Controller Chips, CPU/GPU/PCH Reballing and BIOS Bin File Editing.
I’ve done a few of these, I found if you use a pair of tweezers and wrap the pull tab round them and just twirl it round to remove the tab, it’s worked 90% of the time for me
For Batteries in future use IPA and a small Syringe and put some under the battery it will help soften the adhesive and make them easier to come off using a pry tool
So enjoyable to watch you work. That laptop owner is getting quality job. Wish your shop was close to me so my PCs received such care. 👍
Some folded Post It notes work well for a trackpad spacer too.
That new tape is awesome! Not anything like the crap on older MBP's you need a crowbar spudger to get those batteries out
Having replaced a keyboard on one of these top cases I can confirm it’s possible, but a nightmare I don’t plan on experiencing again. The keyboard is riveted in…so you have to cut the tops, drill out screw holes for each rivet, and then put screws in to hold the new keyboard. It’s terribly time consuming.
Yea =/
The Retina series were about my limit - had to rip out rivets on those, but at least you could then just put screws in for the new keyboard without treating the holes. If you've got to start drilling out the holes, no way that's worth the time and hassle vs a good condition-used chassis.
first off, you are not supposed to cut the rivets, use some fine wire cutters to grab and pull it straight but slowly, there are screws meant to remplace those rivets but if the rivets break in half and a rivet chunk stays in there, it will not go in properly.
@@Neo_AIO You can not pull the rivets out , they are a part of the plastic molding and the heads which have been heat molded over have to be cut off . Watch a few videos on the subject and you will understand what a nightmare they are
@@UserUser-ww2nj bruh, 😂 are you trolling me? The whole top case is metal 🤪
@@UserUser-ww2nj and guess what, i did 🙂
The tape might help with vibration when playing music or sound
10:35 Why does it need 6 screws 🤔 I guess Apple really really want it to stay where it is.
£1200 laptop, I’ll just leave this lying on floor open 👍
Excellent work and I really enjoyed your video. Thank you! 👍😎
Hello nice video like another videos on this channel.
For speaker tapes you need stretch from start in one press not use finger on start point because cause more pressure and tape was broken.
i hate the speaker adhesive so much but with a tweezer its easy to remove gently rotate the tweezers to pull the adhesive out
and also the Squair small shield in back of trackpad use to calibration clicking and feedback
in Authorized Service when we order the trackpad its come with 3 size S and M and Large first start with medium size and check and thane do calibration but this in Authorized Service only i mean the calibration but i just wanna ask how to configure the display ?
NOOB Question: I was testing voltages on a working Mac AIR & there was a “spark”. Then it basically “shorted” (I guess) and now instead oh 8.6v where expected, I get ~2.3v. I was testing a small inductor (the inductor that looks like an MLCC Capacitor (whitish) near backlight circuit).
I’m not sure what I did wrong. I see Louis & Adamant test LIVE voltages but I obviously screwed up.
Any ideas or recommendations on what I might have done? THANK YOU. 🙏
I wanted to create a spreadsheet of voltages at various points to compare with non working logic board.
you killed it
@@toseltreps1101 I know I killed it. Just wondering “what” I did wrong so I do not do it again. Thanks. Suggestions appreciated.
how can anyone know what you did?
@@daytonagreg8765 you prob accidentaly put vcc backligt straight to the backlight circuit
Edit
Tldr vcc backlight + ground = bad
Either you can replace the ic or mosfet that responsible for backlight voltage but that just my guest
@@toseltreps1101 Someone with actual experience (clearly not you) has no doubt made noob mistakes along they way and could explain certain actions that would cause “a spark”. My background is software development, & I’m just starting to understand basic testing.
I also know, for a fact, that if this happened to me, it’s happened to at least a thousand other people (again, clearly not you) who could provide insight.
I had an Asus laptop that someone had spilt a whole cup of coffee over the keyboard. I left it to dry out for a week and plugged it in, it worked fine so I told the owner to plug in a keyboard or use a BT one as replacing the keyboard is almost impossible with the plastic welds. The cost of replacing he keyboard was also ridiculous with 2 hours of labour and parts making the repair more than 3-5 times the value of the laptop.
I would definitely advise, to put at least a small strip of double-sided tape underneath the "long portion" of the speakers. If this long portion is left completely "floating", it might start to rattle at some frequencies at higher volumes. This is quite hard to actually test, so I would rather be safe than sorry.
Otherwise flawlessly done - thumbs up!
Do you have the final price of this repair you can share? I was wondering if it would be the same price in the US. Thanks
You done a good job.
Quick question I'm interested in a Galaxy S9 tab what do you think of them
A very nice one again thnx.
Pleased the battery didnt rupture with THAT much of a bend in it !
I guess True Tone doesn’t work afterwards?
HI pro can you help me with bitmap for all macs
Possible the lid was shut when there was an object on the keyboard?
No, the chassis is aluminium and not plastic. It requires quite a bit of force to bend aluminium. If that did happen then they would have had to kick or punch the screen closed but then you would have experienced a cracked screen too. It was stood on whilst open from the looks of it.
I just did this same repair
what is your hot air station plz
Why do you have a email if you don’t respond?
Hello o/
My inbox tends to get swamped, I do what I can but sometimes messages get missed in the stream. The best way to get hold of me is by phone or to pop into the shop!
@@Adamant_IT I’m in the US but would cool to stop in and chat. What brand solid state drives do you recommend or install?
Depends on the use case really... General laptop 2.5" HDD replacement, Crucial MX500. Budget NVMe Drive for PC, probably a Crucial P3 or P3 plus, depending on pricing. High performance NVMe, Samsung or WD Black.
0:07 na not me idk for the rest in chat iam good with the outfit ur good
Your good teacher
It's an Apple product so I am sure someone jumped on it ;)
Probably some envious Wintel user …
👍
Is the case the one component they have not rigged with id chips so you cannot swap it out for another. Have never, will never, own apple products.
Your loss. After getting this tank of a 14 Pro Max after spending my entire life on Android, I can confidently say I’m never going back to those watered down Linux phones.
I watch your video's because i am planning someday to design custom simple circuit board for smart home system and connect it with central pc which is very expensive or not perfect if you buy it or third-party do it for you i hoop that you someday start tutorial for somekind of building custom simple circuit (for example i live in Netherland and i think also in England you can find the cheap smart lamp that you can connect to app to control it cost 17€ the app allow you to connect as many same brand as you like but i need to control many other stuff like smoking alarms and other lamp but from different normal good brand and finally robot vacuum cleaner) and then design custom app to control all of them at once yo save more time and energy thanks
The only thing that would cause an issue to the customer is problably software related since true tone will no longer work and those remplacement displays are not color calibrated.
There is a sticker saying it has been light sensor tested so it should be good
@@UserUser-ww2njlight sensor and backlight luminosity is not true tone 😂
@@Neo_AIO From your other comments I take you as a complete joke , including this one
How do you know they are not calibrated? You are making comments with no justification or evidence
@@UserUser-ww2nj because i'm a repairman also 😅 screen remplacements is something common, true tone gets disabled if you don't keep the original light sensor.And stop calling people a joke 🤣, i've been in the business for more than 3 years.
This is an apple bs calibration issue, look at an original screen and the replacement one next to each other, white colors appear yellowish or blueish depending on the panel.
First 😂