This man has skill. This man knows when to take short, moreover, he knows when "not" to. I always question why a home owner would risk their home and safety of their family and hire someone who isn't licensed. Especially when it involves anything electrical. This video proves my point. Well done young man.
I'm an electrical engineer/software engineer looking at running power to a couple outside structures. This very detailed video convinced me I need to hire a pro to get this done right. There seems to be an endless number of ways to get tripped up doing this and get something wrong. Nice job.
A friend of mine recently got his EE degree. College taught him almost nothing about national electric codes. And 90%+ of what they taught him in college will never be used at any EE job.
Yes, it is one thing to be able to appreciate the electrician, and another to *be* the electrician. An EE degree will teach you how things work but will not teach you what available devices and materials work well and safely under specific conditions. The code includes a huge amount of knowledge gleaned from analyzing safety of real devices in the real world. E.g., I can calculate how much a wire of a given diameter heats up from the current flowing through it, but I don't know how many watts of heat output have been found to be safe with common building materials. That's what the code is for. (To be clear, I do not have an EE degree; I work in a related field.)
Man I gotta commend you on the lack of ego alone 🫡 it’s rare to see it for damn sure. Many people say they’re welders/mechanics/masons etc. I can build a house, a vehicle, I can run heavy equipment (though I’m no longer certified to) but I have the ASE/ASME credentials to say I am a welder and a mechanic and the skill set to back them and plumbing… you’re a plumber, I’m a plumber, there’s three questions on the master test and the answers are 1. Wash your hands before eating. 2. Get paid on Fridays. 3. Shit rolls downhill. So ya know…. (JK to all you plumbers Don’t get crazy internet he comments 😅) it’s pretty refreshing to see another man capable of saying yea Im qualified to do it but im not certified to 😂 Edit: electrical…. Well let’s just say I don’t mess with it much I’ve done maintenance for many years and got hit with 460 because someone removed my lock out and powered the machine up and I was replacing the cover and made a complete circuit with my… self…two weeks after a guy got almost killed by 480 so I’m def not a fan 😪 the other guy was resuscitated or he wouldn’t be here spent a few weeks in st Francis icu lucky guy the plant is no longer in business thankfully that place was a hazard to anyone who walked in the door 😑
I had my 8 X 12 shed wired up.... I had the electrician put in a 50 Amp sub panel outside for a hotub and power for the shed... wound up using most of it for the shed and outdoor outlets and dedicated wiring for laserjet printer power... my shed has AC and Heat so I can work out in it year round!
As a grounding expert, you could need a ground rod. The ground rod dissipates static buildup. It’s hard to predict how static will builup in separate buildings. If your breaker GFCI trips without any apparent cause, add a ground rod close to the GFCI breaker. While you perform the installation, if you don’t want to call back the installer, ask for the ground rod. If you don’t want to be safe for insurance claims or after you sell the house for hidden defect, add a ground rod to each building. The number of ground rod is specified in the building code of your region. It’s not a country wife standard. The size of the building will drive the number of rods. No need for two rods per small 10x10 shed.
Josh, thank you for the information. I just put some white conduit in the ground with a couple pcs gray conduit. I cut the end off a 50 ft extension cord, pushed it thru the conduit, re-wired the plug, went to the shed, wired the initial switch, plugged the other end into an outlet on my patio and bam- circuit on my main breaker box tripped. Proved that I am not an electrician. Bob, Killeen, Texas
@@Petersonelectricllc My question is..."can I add a 120v outlet to my 16x24 barn to use as a temporary/portable source of electricity"? Some cities won't let you 'tap into' the house's breaker box, etc. I currently run an electrical cord from my patio to my barn for power. But I want to use an outdoor outlet attached to said barn so, that I can plug in a contractor's power strip for lights, power inside of the barn. Is this possible?
You can’t run any wire you want through conduit, it has to be rated for moisture, etc. I only learned about it recently. The wire has to be THWN and there’s even different heat ratings as well. You can only run a certain amount of wires in the conduit depending on the size of the pipe. Wire in air vs wire in a pipe is different and can also heat up. I have been sound building and remodeling most of my life and untie last month, had no clue. I’m 64 years old, always learning
I wired my shed last year and ran THWN through schedule 80 PVC with the slip sleeves. Inspector made me install a ground rod, sub panel, external disconnect and the trench was 24 inches deep.
You do not need another ground rod when you are coming off of the house panel. Even if you had a sub panel you don't need a ground rod. You are using the panels ground rod, ufer ground, water bond, etc. for your ground source. You do not want to start adding multiple sources of ground to your electrical system. It is different if it's a separately derived system, then you need a storage ground source.
Also if this outdoor structure is not a Permanent structure, meaning that it can be relocated easily, you can supple electrical power to it with a 12/3 Extension cord, and detach it as your Disconnecting means. You would wire the interior the same as shown, but you would just need an extension cord with a male plug on it. If the shed sits on a concrete pad, that would be considered permanent structure. Think of a shed made into a Chicken coop, where it may be moved regularly and only has a heat lamp, automatic door opener and maybe an electric fence attached to it. You could sleeve the cord with PVC if you are worried about mowing over it, but I have never had an issue with it.
I have a kiln and a oxygen generator plus a vent fan I have it wired with 30 amps should I go higher or should I be good everything runs on 110 plugs pls help plus don't know the wire size from the pole it's grey my father did it before he passed
OK, have to put my 1 cent in here. Depends on jurisdiction, Where I am, only ground bonding at service entrance once, from there even to detached (most cases) will be four wire (240) three wire (120 only) but have dedicated ground back to single point where bonded at service entrance/panel/meter no additional ground rods should be installed at other shed/building. In older systems originally wired without a dedicated group to another detached structure then should have a dedicated ground rod, neutral/grounds bonded at that structure entrance and only once. This is all about safety in "Bonding" the system do not want multiple grounded points with different paths where have dedicated grounds run then must be kept separate, no additional earth grounding.
On Grounding rods. There is NO SUCH THING AS REDUNDANT! I will explain why. Electricity travels shortest path. This means if your ground is on the Main house and lighting strikes your shed and it has no ground then the energy from the strike will now travel the line into the house "in force" and risk damaging things in the home and potentially starting a major fire in your home. If you have a ground at the Shed then any surges there will be directed to ground "in force" rather than be distributed to other systems connected to your local electrical grid along the way to the nearest ground. You should ground every panel because well... everything else is connected through those and if every panel has a quick ground for exit... hopefully the worst you can ever experience is a burned out panel from a strike instead. Plus, there is the added benefit to you as a human if you are exposed to electrical shock by accident. If you are the nearest and ONLY contact with the ground you will become the ground and you will feel like you got lit up like a Christmas tree. Don't ever underestimate the life and property saving potential of grounding things. You could save your life or anothers life... and if you sell your property you might save the life of a future owner. I know people like to think some of these things are redundant but when it comes to electricity... that stuff is dangerous and we like to ground them for very good reasons. We don't want unexpected build ups of energy with no place to go! GROUND DAT SHIT!
Hey I got a quick question I'm hoping that you can give me some good guidance on I have a 10 by 20 shed and I need to run some underground wiring from the shed to my house what size wiring would I need and what size circuit breaker should I put in there I want about 7 to 8 receptacles lights and some type of heating system Thanks for any advice New sub
Did you get an answer for your question? I'm trying to do the same as you...my she'd is like 80ft away of the house but dont know what awg of wire and and breaker size to use. Please let me know if you got some info on this, Thanks.
I need help I need to install a breaker to 75 feet of wire from breaker box to a shed, how many amp breaker do I need and what size wire, I won’t be going underground I will be putting wire inside a grey pvc pipe cemented so no moister can get it running it along side my wooden fence till I get to the shed I’d appreciate the help ty
GFCI is not acceptable as a disconnect. For 3 reasons, 1) you can’t tell by looking at it if it’s on or off 2) that’s not the purpose of the test/reset buttons, 3) you can’t activate the disconnect in a power outage or if the breaker is off.
This is logical. Amping up to do a music room once OSB comes back down from the price Lagrange point it's currently holding at right now. Conduit conduit conduit! Question for you my good sir: Is it overkill to run 6/4 SOOW via PVC flex underground? This would be for a 60 amp 4 wire service with a 20amp and 30amp breaker running 150ft to an outbuilding? Edit: punctuation...
Hey bud I have a question and I know you said running 8 GA so I want your input honestly, I have my shed/man cave wired in 14GA and I want to trench power to it. It's 87 ft I am adding 10 to 15 ft each side so over 100ft what GA you think I should run and size amp breaker from my breaker box
I agree with you, no ground rod it's a waste. To me it seems more like an auxiliary ground not needed or required. If an inspector demanded it and called it auxiliary ground then I run a #12 and refer to 250.54
Can you come run power to my detached garage? I like the way you think. I was planning to just splice into a gfci outlet on the outside of my house, add a new box with another hole for conduit to the garage and just move that gfci outlet to the outside of the garage and use it as my disconnect like you said. then run romex into the garage from that box. no need to add another circuit. What uses 220v anyway? i don't weld, i don't have a giant air compressor. i think i only need 110 for what i do.
If i get a power mete added to my shop will the power line come from the pole by the road or the pole in my yard? Trying to figure out how far of a trench im going to have to dig
At ~10:05, you say 'they don't make you continue the EGC ground the same size all the way through'. I have been wondering about this. Let's say they ran #8 thhn for ground and power. Are you allowed to splice in at the shed in with 8/3 romex, which has a #10 ground?
I have one small tuff shed14×10, next to my house, and ran a 14-2 thru attic to panel box in house then to opposite side of house in attic and will put junction box outside. Then wire to shed...my lapidary shop...is 14-2 wire ok
I’m here because I cannot get a contractor to call me back. I heard they’re so busy the ignore small jobs. So I’m going to have to learn myself. I used to be a wire puller for an electrical utility. Journeyman did all the electrical stuff
Right. Extra ground rods don't do anything. They don't make the circuits safer. If you get a ground fault, you're going to need ground all the way back to your service bonding jumper, not an extra 2-4 ground rods. If you don't have that, you could put 200 ground rods and you'll still get a shock touching your live chassis. The ground rods are just to let static electricity return to the earth. Either because it's a dry day or there was a lightning strike nearby that charged the air. When you're that close to your primary structure, your ground wire can just take that back to your primary ground rods.
@@Uejji sometimes you need another ground rod to reach a certain spec. Can't recall what the name is at the moment im just "some guy" but I believe in some cases one or 2 rods might not be enough to carry a full load efficiently from what I've heard.
How much would it cost to add electricity to a 12x16 metal building ? A lady is selling me one with electrical but I would like to know how much it’ll be to have it running with light. I want to know the cost so I can be ahead of the game incase I decide on purchasing it. If anybody can let me know how much the budget would be I’ll appreciate it.
A Ground Rod is only good for Protecting your Service drop should a storm cause you to lose one of your overhead Service entrance conductors as it will allow a Grounding path back to the Transformer and allow the fuse to overheat and open the fuse, which isolates the fault. Another thing a Ground rod does is provide a path for Lightning to enter your buildings wiring which may result in a Lightning strike. What most people do not understand is a Storm Cloud positively charged and the Earth is negatively charged, and whatever size the Sky cloud is there is also an Earth cloud moving thru the Earth all looking for a path of least resistance in order to cancel out the charges or create what we see as a Lightning Strike.
Please Help! Will this wire work from the main 250 amp box, underground 175 ft to my RV ? bring the power from the residential, commercial, and industrial buildings to outdoor constructions, which include pumps and lighting constructions. The electrical cable is suitable for direct burial, as well as direct exposure to the sunlight. It is permitted for use as feeder or branch circuit cable if provided with overcurrent protection. Copper Underground Feeder Cable UF-B has a rating of 600 volts. • Size AWG: 6 • Weight per 1,000 ft: 303 lbs • Outside Diameter: 770X338 • Conductors: 2 • Number of Strands: 7 • Jacket: PVC • Insulation and Jacket Thickness: 35 mils • Jacket Thickness: 45 mils • Ground Size: 10
@rashellyohn5128 0 seconds ago Thank you for this video. I really need help! I have this pump that had 10 gauge 3 hot wires and a ground coming from my panel . 2 hots and the ground were directly contacted to the pump while the 3rd hot was wire nutted off to the side. I have since added a sun panel with( 2) 15 amp double pole breakers in hopes to split the power of one double pole breaker to add a 110amp outlet. Only thing is there is no neutral wire. I got the pump working off the 2 double 15 amps but the gfci only the green light came on but had no power to light the heat lamp. Could I add a metal stake into the ground , run a ground to the bus bar then run a wire to the bus bar to the gfci as my neutral wire. The ground is connected to ground screw of sub panel and also the ground wire that was originally connect to pump is also connect to ground screw. Thank you for your help. At this point I’m not worried about code as I am keep the pump from freezing.
My brother in law ran water lines and electricity to my garage where my parents live. The problem is that when my mom turns on microwave and minisplit ac it trips the breaker and also a combination of other appliences. The garage has a lot of outlets and I think they are on a 20amp breaker with a 14 gauge romex cable and brother in law also got electricity from the exiating 220 0r 240 outlet in garage to add more stuff. When breaker trips the whole power goes out in garage and also in kitchen of the main house. I think circuit is overloading.I was thinking of adding a 60amp circuit to main box and running a new line to garage and in garage add one of this boxes Eaton Corporation Br816L125Fdp 6 Circuit Main Lug Load Center, 125-Amp??? Also will I need to cancell all existing outlets and start from
Ok.....yea....Imma Just Hire And Electrician....lol......Im Sure Its good Information for a Person that Understands Wiring.........You Got me Feeling like i need to Pull out the Radio I Installed in My F-150 And Check the Wiring...😂....😅....You're Very Detailed tho....I just dont Do Electricity
Joshua - I love your videos. Keep them coming. As for ground rods, I don’t like them (Mike Holt explains it far better than I could). They ARE required (2017 NEC 250.32(A) EXCEPT for a single branch circuit supplying power to a detached shed or garage. So, in your case, you’re golden (not that you needed me to tell you that! :) But I wanted to clarify for others that might be running more than one branch or are running feeder. A grounding system is required. I don’t agree with it, but that’s not the only thing I disagree with in the NEC 🤷♂️
I’m not an electrician, but my understanding is that the point of a ground rod on an accessory structure or sub panel is that the neutral can back-feed power or become “hot” hence neutral bonding screw only used in main panel. Again, I’m no electrician so I could be wrong. Just sharing what I interpreted from my research.
Thanks for the video! I appreciate the code references and explanation. I ran UF 10/3 w.ground to my detached garage. the plan is for lighting and receptacles for now, protected by 30 Amp gfci at the house's service panel. In the future I might 240v but for now, just 120v. Should I install a subpanel in the garage for disconnect? I saw the gfci you used for disconnect outside. Thanks for any info. (I'm retired with too much free time in my hands! Lol)
I think you’re confusing Valencia oranges with VALENCE (not Valencia) electrons! Kinda like apples and oranges - can’t compare the two. Good advice though. 😎
Start the video by talking to me like I'm stupid man, you don't know the struggles I've been through man. *Takes a big bite of ice cream* You don't know the shit I've been through man, the things I've seen.
mark 7;37, that's what I came for. to see if I have to put the wire thru conduit inside. No, I don't. And I don't have to drill thru the studs it looks like either. Just use those clamps. oh wait, yes he did. with the formular I don't have that much room.
Bet I do spray down the inside of my building. I dont plan on it but from my past experiences I know I should plan on it lol but dayum that seems overkill for that shed. Not saying your wrong of course because your an electrician and thats your job. I was very surprised you passed on the ground rod, I was expecting throwing in some cathodic protection maybe and full blown ground grid JK 🤣
I'm not an electrician, but I did spend countless hours talking with inspectors and the electricians I worked with for over 20 years while installing standby generators. Years ago (before generator code) they would say to install per the mfgr's recommendation and 20 years ago most said to install a rod at the remote equipment. More recently everyone seemed to agree that ALL grounds get hard wired back to the main panel, including sheds and sub panel grounds. IOW, no "extra" ground rods. These days (well, before I retired) I ask the inspector what they want to see and if I disagree I ask them to point out what I missed in the code.... or I will bring that to the attention of the sparky and let them duke it out. (arguing with inspectors is now well above my pay grade)
This man has skill. This man knows when to take short, moreover, he knows when "not" to. I always question why a home owner would risk their home and safety of their family and hire someone who isn't licensed. Especially when it involves anything electrical. This video proves my point. Well done young man.
Thank you, brother. You should of been a teacher. I like listening to you and get everything your saying.
I'm an electrical engineer/software engineer looking at running power to a couple outside structures. This very detailed video convinced me I need to hire a pro to get this done right. There seems to be an endless number of ways to get tripped up doing this and get something wrong. Nice job.
A friend of mine recently got his EE degree. College taught him almost nothing about national electric codes. And 90%+ of what they taught him in college will never be used at any EE job.
Yes, it is one thing to be able to appreciate the electrician, and another to *be* the electrician. An EE degree will teach you how things work but will not teach you what available devices and materials work well and safely under specific conditions. The code includes a huge amount of knowledge gleaned from analyzing safety of real devices in the real world. E.g., I can calculate how much a wire of a given diameter heats up from the current flowing through it, but I don't know how many watts of heat output have been found to be safe with common building materials. That's what the code is for. (To be clear, I do not have an EE degree; I work in a related field.)
Man I gotta commend you on the lack of ego alone 🫡 it’s rare to see it for damn sure. Many people say they’re welders/mechanics/masons etc. I can build a house, a vehicle, I can run heavy equipment (though I’m no longer certified to) but I have the ASE/ASME credentials to say I am a welder and a mechanic and the skill set to back them and plumbing… you’re a plumber, I’m a plumber, there’s three questions on the master test and the answers are 1. Wash your hands before eating.
2. Get paid on Fridays.
3. Shit rolls downhill.
So ya know…. (JK to all you plumbers Don’t get crazy internet he comments 😅) it’s pretty refreshing to see another man capable of saying yea Im qualified to do it but im not certified to 😂
Edit: electrical…. Well let’s just say I don’t mess with it much I’ve done maintenance for many years and got hit with 460 because someone removed my lock out and powered the machine up and I was replacing the cover and made a complete circuit with my… self…two weeks after a guy got almost killed by 480 so I’m def not a fan 😪 the other guy was resuscitated or he wouldn’t be here spent a few weeks in st Francis icu lucky guy the plant is no longer in business thankfully that place was a hazard to anyone who walked in the door 😑
Awesome thanks for giving me the entire layout of this guys property. You’ve helped me immensely
well done ,one of the best instructional videos i have ever seen,maintenance electrician for miss power company for 32 years,retired.
God you’re a well read and experienced dude. You seem like a good hang and an even better contractor.
I had my 8 X 12 shed wired up.... I had the electrician put in a 50 Amp sub panel outside for a hotub and power for the shed... wound up using most of it for the shed and outdoor outlets and dedicated wiring for laserjet printer power... my shed has AC and Heat so I can work out in it year round!
As a grounding expert, you could need a ground rod. The ground rod dissipates static buildup. It’s hard to predict how static will builup in separate buildings. If your breaker GFCI trips without any apparent cause, add a ground rod close to the GFCI breaker.
While you perform the installation, if you don’t want to call back the installer, ask for the ground rod.
If you don’t want to be safe for insurance claims or after you sell the house for hidden defect, add a ground rod to each building.
The number of ground rod is specified in the building code of your region. It’s not a country wife standard. The size of the building will drive the number of rods. No need for two rods per small 10x10 shed.
The static that would be on the ground is already being resolved because of the ground rod at the house.
Josh, thank you for the information. I just put some white conduit in the ground with a couple pcs gray conduit. I cut the end off a 50 ft extension cord, pushed it thru the conduit, re-wired the plug, went to the shed, wired the initial switch, plugged the other end into an outlet on my patio and bam- circuit on my main breaker box tripped. Proved that I am not an electrician. Bob, Killeen, Texas
Thanks for watching
@@Petersonelectricllc
My question is..."can I add a 120v outlet to my 16x24 barn to use as a temporary/portable source of electricity"? Some cities won't let you 'tap into' the house's breaker box, etc. I currently run an electrical cord from my patio to my barn for power. But I want to use an outdoor outlet attached to said barn so, that I can plug in a contractor's power strip for lights, power inside of the barn. Is this possible?
You can’t run any wire you want through conduit, it has to be rated for moisture, etc. I only learned about it recently. The wire has to be THWN and there’s even different heat ratings as well. You can only run a certain amount of wires in the conduit depending on the size of the pipe. Wire in air vs wire in a pipe is different and can also heat up. I have been sound building and remodeling most of my life and untie last month, had no clue. I’m 64 years old, always learning
I’m glad to finally see someone that actually knows the code but lives in reality.
Its such a good feeling to see someone who knows what their talking about. Keep up the good work👍
I couldn't agree more!
Hey Guy good info. My question is do I need a disconnect on a back yard Sauna?
It's nice to see a man take pride in his work 💪👷👏
I wired my shed last year and ran THWN through schedule 80 PVC with the slip sleeves. Inspector made me install a ground rod, sub panel, external disconnect and the trench was 24 inches deep.
Wow! I love this video, you really explained this in a simplest way for a beginner like me :)
mike holt's grounding basics video is worth watching along with this video, thanks for posting this!
Awesome video I’m gonna do exactly this at a side job this week. I already had it down I just came for reassurance ;)
Nice video man! Very well explained for a homeowner like myself without going too NEC crazy. Thanks.
You do not need another ground rod when you are coming off of the house panel. Even if you had a sub panel you don't need a ground rod. You are using the panels ground rod, ufer ground, water bond, etc. for your ground source. You do not want to start adding multiple sources of ground to your electrical system. It is different if it's a separately derived system, then you need a storage ground source.
Also if this outdoor structure is not a Permanent structure, meaning that it can be relocated easily, you can supple electrical power to it with a 12/3 Extension cord, and detach it as your Disconnecting means. You would wire the interior the same as shown, but you would just need an extension cord with a male plug on it. If the shed sits on a concrete pad, that would be considered permanent structure. Think of a shed made into a Chicken coop, where it may be moved regularly and only has a heat lamp, automatic door opener and maybe an electric fence attached to it. You could sleeve the cord with PVC if you are worried about mowing over it, but I have never had an issue with it.
Journeyman here, good stuff, this guy knows his shit!
Thanks for identifying yourself as a journeyman before commenting.
@@electricaf365😂😂
I do need a 220 v 20 amp out to my shed as well as to have 1 or 2 extra for light and another receptacle
I have a kiln and a oxygen generator plus a vent fan I have it wired with 30 amps should I go higher or should I be good everything runs on 110 plugs pls help plus don't know the wire size from the pole it's grey my father did it before he passed
GOD !!!... Your videos are so great... every single one, God bless your good work.
That is a beautiful Honda Valkyrie sitting in the garage there at 7:53.
OK, have to put my 1 cent in here. Depends on jurisdiction, Where I am, only ground bonding at service entrance once, from there even to detached (most cases) will be four wire (240) three wire (120 only) but have dedicated ground back to single point where bonded at service entrance/panel/meter no additional ground rods should be installed at other shed/building. In older systems originally wired without a dedicated group to another detached structure then should have a dedicated ground rod, neutral/grounds bonded at that structure entrance and only once. This is all about safety in "Bonding" the system do not want multiple grounded points with different paths where have dedicated grounds run then must be kept separate, no additional earth grounding.
On Grounding rods. There is NO SUCH THING AS REDUNDANT! I will explain why. Electricity travels shortest path. This means if your ground is on the Main house and lighting strikes your shed and it has no ground then the energy from the strike will now travel the line into the house "in force" and risk damaging things in the home and potentially starting a major fire in your home. If you have a ground at the Shed then any surges there will be directed to ground "in force" rather than be distributed to other systems connected to your local electrical grid along the way to the nearest ground. You should ground every panel because well... everything else is connected through those and if every panel has a quick ground for exit... hopefully the worst you can ever experience is a burned out panel from a strike instead. Plus, there is the added benefit to you as a human if you are exposed to electrical shock by accident. If you are the nearest and ONLY contact with the ground you will become the ground and you will feel like you got lit up like a Christmas tree. Don't ever underestimate the life and property saving potential of grounding things. You could save your life or anothers life... and if you sell your property you might save the life of a future owner. I know people like to think some of these things are redundant but when it comes to electricity... that stuff is dangerous and we like to ground them for very good reasons. We don't want unexpected build ups of energy with no place to go! GROUND DAT SHIT!
Sounds like myself and a lot of other people know just enough to be dangerous LOL thanks for the video! Good information
I’m barely learning this trade and your video was great.
The NATE DIAZ of electricians 😆 lol
Dustin from electrician u is a mcgregor version
I think this was the god of electricians we just witnessed.
Hey I got a quick question I'm hoping that you can give me some good guidance on
I have a 10 by 20 shed and I need to run some underground wiring from the shed to my house
what size wiring would I need and what size circuit breaker should I put in there
I want about 7 to 8 receptacles lights and some type of heating system
Thanks for any advice
New sub
Did you get an answer for your question? I'm trying to do the same as you...my she'd is like 80ft away of the house but dont know what awg of wire and and breaker size to use. Please let me know if you got some info on this, Thanks.
I need help I need to install a breaker to 75 feet of wire from breaker box to a shed, how many amp breaker do I need and what size wire, I won’t be going underground I will be putting wire inside a grey pvc pipe cemented so no moister can get it running it along side my wooden fence till I get to the shed I’d appreciate the help ty
Which wire should I use from my house main panel to my shed, is about 25 feet away from the house
Post some videos on installing electrical in 1-1/2 inch tubing metal frame building please.
GFCI is not acceptable as a disconnect. For 3 reasons, 1) you can’t tell by looking at it if it’s on or off 2) that’s not the purpose of the test/reset buttons, 3) you can’t activate the disconnect in a power outage or if the breaker is off.
How would you make it safer?
If the breaker was off the GFCI would not need to be used as a disconnect at that time
Smart person!Thanks for the amazing, informative video!
This is logical. Amping up to do a music room once OSB comes back down from the price Lagrange point it's currently holding at right now. Conduit conduit conduit!
Question for you my good sir: Is it overkill to run 6/4 SOOW via PVC flex underground? This would be for a 60 amp 4 wire service with a 20amp and 30amp breaker running 150ft to an outbuilding?
Edit: punctuation...
Hey bud I have a question and I know you said running 8 GA so I want your input honestly, I have my shed/man cave wired in 14GA and I want to trench power to it. It's 87 ft I am adding 10 to 15 ft each side so over 100ft what GA you think I should run and size amp breaker from my breaker box
I agree with you, no ground rod it's a waste. To me it seems more like an auxiliary ground not needed or required. If an inspector demanded it and called it auxiliary ground then I run a #12 and refer to 250.54
Does anybody have the wire requirement for a detached garage hundred amp that is 100 ft from the service panel
Very informative. Excellent video
Can you come run power to my detached garage? I like the way you think. I was planning to just splice into a gfci outlet on the outside of my house, add a new box with another hole for conduit to the garage and just move that gfci outlet to the outside of the garage and use it as my disconnect like you said. then run romex into the garage from that box. no need to add another circuit. What uses 220v anyway? i don't weld, i don't have a giant air compressor. i think i only need 110 for what i do.
How much dose something like this cost
If i get a power mete added to my shop will the power line come from the pole by the road or the pole in my yard? Trying to figure out how far of a trench im going to have to dig
I have learned from this video! Thank you !
@Peterson electric Do you have videos doing the same but with a solar panel on shed roof for power instead of hardwire?
So there nothing I could do to run above grade ? my backyard is cemented .
At ~10:05, you say
'they don't make you continue the EGC ground the same size all the way through'.
I have been wondering about this. Let's say they ran #8 thhn for ground and power. Are you allowed to splice in at the shed in with 8/3 romex, which has a #10 ground?
Don't judge a book by its cover. Nice job
I have one small tuff shed14×10, next to my house, and ran a 14-2 thru attic to panel box in house then to opposite side of house in attic and will put junction box outside. Then wire to shed...my lapidary shop...is 14-2 wire ok
I’m here because I cannot get a contractor to call me back. I heard they’re so busy the ignore small jobs. So I’m going to have to learn myself. I used to be a wire puller for an electrical utility. Journeyman did all the electrical stuff
What camera do you use to record this? Video quality is excellent
I'm running a 220v welder in mine what do I need to do to mine started a at home welding business dont want to be on the road anymore
Can you run a window ac unit on a 30 amp 110 and still run lights and computers? Thinking about converting a shed unto an office.
Should I use 20 Amp or 15 amp...will have lights inside also
Mike Holt would say "no" to all those extra ground rods. Screw any inspector that pushes for that lol
destroycamero lol it’s not just some “opinion”. There’s a reason behind it.
Right. Extra ground rods don't do anything. They don't make the circuits safer. If you get a ground fault, you're going to need ground all the way back to your service bonding jumper, not an extra 2-4 ground rods. If you don't have that, you could put 200 ground rods and you'll still get a shock touching your live chassis.
The ground rods are just to let static electricity return to the earth. Either because it's a dry day or there was a lightning strike nearby that charged the air. When you're that close to your primary structure, your ground wire can just take that back to your primary ground rods.
@@Uejji sometimes you need another ground rod to reach a certain spec. Can't recall what the name is at the moment im just "some guy" but I believe in some cases one or 2 rods might not be enough to carry a full load efficiently from what I've heard.
@@Uejji .....i know there was a legit reason to it i just can't remember.
How much would it cost to add electricity to a 12x16 metal building ? A lady is selling me one with electrical but I would like to know how much it’ll be to have it running with light. I want to know the cost so I can be ahead of the game incase I decide on purchasing it. If anybody can let me know how much the budget would be I’ll appreciate it.
A Ground Rod is only good for Protecting your Service drop should a storm cause you to lose one of your overhead Service entrance conductors as it will allow a Grounding path back to the Transformer and allow the fuse to overheat and open the fuse, which isolates the fault. Another thing a Ground rod does is provide a path for Lightning to enter your buildings wiring which may result in a Lightning strike. What most people do not understand is a Storm Cloud positively charged and the Earth is negatively charged, and whatever size the Sky cloud is there is also an Earth cloud moving thru the Earth all looking for a path of least resistance in order to cancel out the charges or create what we see as a Lightning Strike.
Please Help!
Will this wire work from the main 250 amp box, underground 175 ft to my RV ?
bring the power from the residential, commercial, and industrial buildings to outdoor constructions, which include pumps and lighting constructions.
The electrical cable is suitable for direct burial, as well as direct exposure to the sunlight. It is permitted for use as feeder or branch circuit cable if provided with overcurrent protection. Copper Underground Feeder Cable UF-B has a rating of 600 volts.
• Size AWG: 6
• Weight per 1,000 ft: 303 lbs
• Outside Diameter: 770X338
• Conductors: 2
• Number of Strands: 7
• Jacket: PVC
• Insulation and Jacket Thickness: 35 mils
• Jacket Thickness: 45 mils
• Ground Size: 10
50 amp
@rashellyohn5128
0 seconds ago
Thank you for this video. I really need help!
I have this pump that had 10 gauge 3 hot wires and a ground coming from my panel . 2 hots and the ground were directly contacted to the pump while the 3rd hot was wire nutted off to the side. I have since added a sun panel with( 2) 15 amp double pole breakers in hopes to split the power of one double pole breaker to add a 110amp outlet. Only thing is there is no neutral wire. I got the pump working off the 2 double 15 amps but the gfci only the green light came on but had no power to light the heat lamp. Could I add a metal stake into the ground , run a ground to the bus bar then run a wire to the bus bar to the gfci as my neutral wire. The ground is connected to ground screw of sub panel and also the ground wire that was originally connect to pump is also connect to ground screw.
Thank you for your help. At this point I’m not worried about code as I am keep the pump from freezing.
My brother in law ran water lines and electricity to my garage where my parents live. The problem is that when my mom turns on microwave and minisplit ac it trips the breaker and also a combination of other appliences.
The garage has a lot of outlets and I think they are on a 20amp breaker with a 14 gauge romex cable and brother in law also got electricity from the exiating 220 0r 240 outlet in garage to add more stuff. When breaker trips the whole power goes out in garage and also in kitchen of the main house. I think circuit is overloading.I was thinking of adding a 60amp circuit to main box and running a new line to garage and in garage add one of this boxes Eaton Corporation Br816L125Fdp 6 Circuit Main Lug Load Center, 125-Amp???
Also will I need to cancell all existing outlets and start from
Wondering if every outlet inside a shed needs GFCI protection, like a garage?
Yes, and a single GFCI feeding all the other shed outlets is acceptable.
Ok.....yea....Imma Just Hire And Electrician....lol......Im Sure Its good Information for a Person that Understands Wiring.........You Got me Feeling like i need to Pull out the Radio I Installed in My F-150 And Check the Wiring...😂....😅....You're Very Detailed tho....I just dont Do Electricity
What’s the price to have that work done
i might have tried to burry the pvc under the tar when going across ally by gate he might have to drag trash over the conduit
I'm a rocket scientist. After watching this video, I'm going to hire an electrician to wire my shed.
(I'm not really a rocket scientist)
what wire did you run in pvc?
recommend me someone like you in Illinois, chicago. : )
Joshua - I love your videos. Keep them coming. As for ground rods, I don’t like them (Mike Holt explains it far better than I could).
They ARE required (2017 NEC 250.32(A) EXCEPT for a single branch circuit supplying power to a detached shed or garage. So, in your case, you’re golden (not that you needed me to tell you that! :) But I wanted to clarify for others that might be running more than one branch or are running feeder. A grounding system is required. I don’t agree with it, but that’s not the only thing I disagree with in the NEC 🤷♂️
I’m not an electrician, but my understanding is that the point of a ground rod on an accessory structure or sub panel is that the neutral can back-feed power or become “hot” hence neutral bonding screw only used in main panel. Again, I’m no electrician so I could be wrong. Just sharing what I interpreted from my research.
This is a great video!!!
Thanks for the video! I appreciate the code references and explanation. I ran UF 10/3 w.ground to my detached garage. the plan is for lighting and receptacles for now, protected by 30 Amp gfci at the house's service panel. In the future I might 240v but for now, just 120v.
Should I install a subpanel in the garage for disconnect? I saw the gfci you used for disconnect outside. Thanks for any info. (I'm retired with too much free time in my hands! Lol)
Great information, thanks...
How much did this cost?
Interesting trip hazard by the gate .... grey rigid conduit - that 40mm?
How much did all this cost him?
Is this up to all regulations?
Can UF be connected to regular wire?
Yes
Awesome video thanks
I'm looking at turning a shed into a small business so lights computer and cash register
You really know what you're talkin about if I could have liked your subscribe more than once I would have
I think you’re confusing Valencia oranges with VALENCE (not Valencia) electrons!
Kinda like apples and oranges - can’t compare the two.
Good advice though. 😎
Thank you for the video
Good tips thanks 🙏
If you are reading this and you are not an experienced electrician this video is not for you.
Only one circuit in a detached structure doesn't need a ground rod.
tips all day...thanks dude
Start the video by talking to me like I'm stupid man, you don't know the struggles I've been through man.
*Takes a big bite of ice cream*
You don't know the shit I've been through man, the things I've seen.
Professor 225.31 & 32 would like to see you after class
Dang those standoff straps will for sure shred anckles and kids legs. Nasty. On ground conduit with the 110 degree bend..
mark 7;37, that's what I came for. to see if I have to put the wire thru conduit inside. No, I don't. And I don't have to drill thru the studs it looks like either. Just use those clamps. oh wait, yes he did. with the formular I don't have that much room.
This is not how to wire a shed. This is expert talk
I think I seen you use a gfi a disconnect? If we are talking true nec reqs and you have a inspector - he will probably call you on that.
This guy’s a total know it all and he LOVES hearing himself talk.
At least he is man enough to actually talk in his videos.
Bet I do spray down the inside of my building. I dont plan on it but from my past experiences I know I should plan on it lol but dayum that seems overkill for that shed. Not saying your wrong of course because your an electrician and thats your job. I was very surprised you passed on the ground rod, I was expecting throwing in some cathodic protection maybe and full blown ground grid JK 🤣
Your Colorado codes are not much different then the codes here in Massachusetts
Yea. It’s almost like there is a national electrical code
$
I'm not an electrician, but I did spend countless hours talking with inspectors and the electricians I worked with for over 20 years while installing standby generators. Years ago (before generator code) they would say to install per the mfgr's recommendation and 20 years ago most said to install a rod at the remote equipment. More recently everyone seemed to agree that ALL grounds get hard wired back to the main panel, including sheds and sub panel grounds. IOW, no "extra" ground rods. These days (well, before I retired) I ask the inspector what they want to see and if I disagree I ask them to point out what I missed in the code.... or I will bring that to the attention of the sparky and let them duke it out. (arguing with inspectors is now well above my pay grade)
For the most part, inspectors don’t know jackshit
Yeh i would agree most inspectors our idiots
Thank you!
Informative
Not code compliant at all 18" barriel not a pile of leaves
Excellent!
Falling asleep 😴