C7 Z06 Race Car Global Time Attack Finals Buttonwillow
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- Опубликовано: 19 ноя 2023
- C7 Z06 Time attack car built by Yates racing, tuned by JDP (JPR) Motorsports, custom suspension by Pro Parts USA, brake pads by GLOC, wheels by Apex. I've done all the work on this car so far by myself minus the tuning. The front splitter is a basic plywood splitter with tunnels from professional awesome, the wing is a nine lives zr1 replacement. The car has the LG cooling kit. Global time attack finals 2023 at buttonwillow raceway in CA. 1st place finish with a lap time of 1:45.833. Second place was less than a .1 behind so very tight battle. Looking forward to going back in 2024 and taking a shot at the RWD record that's currently a 1:44.2
Want to hook me up? Use my link if you're thinking about buying wheels. www.apexraceparts.com/?cmid=a...
Every company that sponsors me I have reached out to because I believe in their products. Everything on my car is tested to the limit and past. If the products work here they work anywhere. Reach out to me personally if you have questions on your build or need help with the racing line. I truly love to see everyone improve! 
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Awesome driving and very informative video! I have been following your racing for years now and it’s really insane to see your in car camera feeds. Very inspiring. Keep it up
Much appreciated! Really enjoy your video on c7z stuff. Supra is sick too!
@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast thanks a lot man! Learning to get into track racing and learning from you, Amir, Kevin Burke many many others. I always enjoy seeing your content and racing
Flying 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻 great job!
Awesome video 🤘its Johns boy, this my channel. You were cruisin when you decided to hit the dirt. Glad the car was good after that. Your slayin it! keep at it 🤘
Awesome dude! Yeah I was going off and either hitting that curb again and likely braking car more or trying the dirt. Dirt was better lol. Thanks for watching!! Cool channel
Great video. Bummer that evo held you up on that last flyer. Flying!
Thanks 👍
Subbed👍🏾
Good video and nice build on the C7Z. E50 tune, headers and CAI are good for about 100. Can you do an in depth video of your build? I assume you have the LG front oil cooler setup? Also curious on the weight? Can you get a c7z down in the 3,200 pound range? Tillet carbon seats, removerl geater core, ac, condenser, wiper motor/blades, braille battery etc..
Since this car is a later manual there is a factory oil cooler where the automatic transmission cooler is on auto c7z cars. I don't have headers just full cat deletes. Makes 590 to the tire. It's tuned to keep temps down and be reliable. Doing a cam and low side along with ported blower and stock pulley combo over the winter. Very reliable 680 to 700 wheel is the goal on e50 to e60. Jms voltage booster for low side.
To get a c7z to 3200 you'd have to strip it pretty extensively. Mine has one race seat and rear panels out and with cage and aero it's still 3465 without driver and 3625 with.
Sweet setup! I’ve started to track my C7Z and the OE rotors are pretty much toast. Do you have any suggestions on rotor replacement Girodisc vs DBA and whether to reuse the OE hats? Also which gloc pads are you using? Currently happy with my EBC SR11 pads but might need more bite when I switch to grippier tires. Thanks in advance
Such a good question! I'm currently running replacement oem rotors and hats only because I got them locally for cheap. Girodisc are on my list and have several friends running them. The rears are a lot lighter, too. When I buy, I'll buy complete with hats. The oem brakes calipers are great, little heavy but solid with the right pads. I never do full sessions. Up to 3 flyers then cool down laps. I have done full sessions but just too hard on street cars and full pace. 8 10th its fine.
You have 2 options with oem brakes. Replace rotors a lot or replace pads. I chose pads. If you get pads that last longer, the trade-off is two things, less bite and hard on rotors. Or more bite and destroy rotors. The gloc r12 compound is my go-to. I've tried r8 r10 and r16. R16 was a little too aggressive on rotors and took a little too much heat to come in. The r12 is perfect. They still last a while but don't kill rotors. For me, running the same pad front and rear helped the car. I had friend, 17 time nasa championship driverthat keep telling me to stop running hard-core pads like the raybesto st43 and I regret not listening sooner. He also runs the gloc pads. But r8 cause mostly autocross and lighter car.
Report back if you swap to gloc and let me know your thoughts.
@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast thanks for insight.
Went ahead and ordered griodiscs for the front. Fronts are developing some deep cracks from the slots but not to the edge yet. Have a trackday coming up at Sebring next month and don’t want to have issues from trying to get more life out of the stock rotors. Eventually will do the rears too, but they look good for now.
Hoping the EBC SR11 pads play nicely with the girodisc rotors. They are a supposedly rotor-friendly due to these pads leaving a transfer layer on the rotor which reduces the wear on the rotor itself. At least that’s what EBC’s marketing department says. Mixed reviews on these pads but I have liked the modulation and wear so far, at least on 200tw tires. I may fall outside their ideal operating temp window when switching to the 3R tires though. Most are running the SR21 (higher friction & higher max temp rating) in front when running slicks.
Agree with your preference of preserving rotor life over pad life & will look into the GLOC R12 once these wear out.
You’re definitely right about the car not liking full sessions. Getting to ~ 270* oil and 230* water temp give or take. I’ve bled the supercharger circuit to prevent pump cavitation and will be running Boostane going forward for knock prevention / prevent ECM from pulling timing. Not sure if I should do catless downpipes to help get heat out of the engine and away from the oil cooler.
Hell of a fun track car despite the little headaches. Would like to add more downforce like you’ve done eventually.
@Doing_The_Thing yeah the two things you mentioned about boostane and the supercharger bleeding are huge. I was surprised how many cracks my oem rotors got with r16 pads. R12 slowed it way down. Report back on the Giro disc rotors if you remember to. Would love to hear feedback.
The nine live zr1 replacemet wing is a cheap option that works great. Little effort to make work though. If you buy the eos zr1 rear wing kit and use that mount with the nine lives zr1 replacemet it works great. My eos kit needed extra bracing and loctite on the bolts. So maybe better options for mounting kit. Before modifying the mount it broke. The front splitters on our cars are the hard thing. I'm on revision 5 or 6 in less than 2 years but have the splitter completely figured out at this point. I'll probably make a video on how I did the front splitter cause it would help a lot of people. I thought I had it figured but at 150 it would break everytime. With professional awesome's recommendations I figured it out.
The 3r is an awesome tire!! Good luck and be safe. Rsr studio has a good rear cage option for your car too. Highly recommend with race seat and harnesses. Harness bars and extremely dangerous. Some racing series have outlawed them. Rsr studio cage is only 51 lbs and stiffens the car up. Piece of mind knowing if you roll the harnesses bar won't cause you to be crushed.
@@ClaytonYatescarenthusiast Hey Clayton, just wanted to follow up. I did install the girodisc front rotors and they’ve been holding up well so far. Some normal small spider cracks but nothing like the crazy deep cracks the oem rotors developed. TBD on the longevity paired with the EBC SR11 pads, which have lasted quite a long time. From what I’ve read, they’re comparable to the ST43 pads. I’ll try the R12’s once these wear out.
Could you share any detail on the front splitter design? I’ll be upgrading the aero setup soon (currently just poverty lip splitter in front and stage 2/3 spoiler in rear). On my shortlist is the APR splitter, but would consider doing a more elaborate setup if it’s worth it. Mind you I am driving the car to the track not trailering.
For rear wing, I’m hesitant to hack up the bumper to do it. Also did the EOS mount line up to the ZR1 wing? I’ve read the mounting points are different.
Weight, power ,tires ?
3605 to 3625 with driver depending on fuel, makes 590 to wheels, Goodyear 3r tires. Heavy for a corvette but c7z are quite heavy.