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3D Printing - Keep Filament Dry While Printing!? - Tupperware Dry Storage Solution
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- After assembly of my 3D printer, this was my first project, and I think it should
be yours too.
Most plastics are hygroscopic, as in they absorb water. Water in sufficient
quantities will boil during the printing process causing issues such as, lack of layer adhesion, surface defects, porosity, degradation of mechanical properties, etc.
A common method of managing this issue, is storing the filament in a dry storage container when not in use. This only slows absorption of moisture, as the filament is still exposed during 3D printing, and removing filament after each print is far too much work. Another common method is simply leaving the filament permanently on the 3D printer, and occasionally drying the filament in an oven. This method risks damaging the plastic or spool holder, and is also inconvenient.
I decided to build a storage container to resolve this, by keeping my filament dry during printing and storage. The container features,
-Reusable desiccant
-A relative humidity sensor
-A spool cradle, operating by use of bearings
-Bowden tube, sealing the filament path, and allowing placement of container anywhere
-Transparent airtight container
-Low cost (43$ CAD)
-Easy assembly
-Excellent performance
Now the filament container requires no maintenance, the only time any work must be done, is to replace the spool, or very rarely dry the desiccant.
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:56 Parts Demo
2:42 Humidity Sensor Install
4:43 Bowden Tube Install
5:57 Spool holder Install
6:33 Pouring Desiccant
7:00 Inserting Spool
7:52 Filament Path
8:30 Initial Testing
9:13 Spouting Merits
11:19 Outro
Product Links:
I am an Amazon affiliates member.
Here are all the parts used to assemble the printer.
Airtight Box: (Rubbermaid 1861476) amzn.to/3fcYN6G
Airtight Box (Note: Not used in video, made of less transparent material, can be used if previous container is not available): amzn.to/3f8Ha81
Bowden Tube and Fittings: amzn.to/2QypAQK
Relative Humidity Sensor: amzn.to/319CS8g
Indicating Desiccant: amzn.to/3sgzvZf
Bearings 20 Pack: amzn.to/3994Qp7
Bearings 10 Pack: amzn.to/3lLEIpx
Filament Spoolholder (Printed from user on thingiverse, Free): www.thingivers...
-I did not create the bearing spool holder, and take no credit for that part of the design
Notes:
Cost for a single storage container (many leftover parts): 95$ CAD
Cost for a single storage container (4 containers, minimum leftover parts): 43$ CAD
Due to the fact that most parts come as multiples, the cost to make a single container is much higher than multiple containers. It may be possible to find these parts in smaller amounts at a lower cost, but these are the parts I used. It is likely I will make more containers to be able to store filament without opening the container for changing filament type.
brilliant. the hard part is finding the same size tupperware.
One idea for drilling the whole -- start the pilot hole going the direction you were (4:45) -- for the rest of the hole, put the drill to go backwards and will be easier cut and not grab at the end -- or start that direction and switch it about 1/2 way through...
Suggestion; raise the device somehow that the spool is sitting on slightly so as to be able to add more desiccant. Great video
Great make. Probably the best I've seen.
Thanks for this video, I finally upgraded my printer space and was looking for a good solution for my filament, since I also print with resin and that releases moisture into the air. Thanks for this man!
I'm glad I could help!
I have a similar system, but use a food storage box for the cassette, so side access for simple reel change. My hygrometer is internally fitted- no loss of container integrity. The filament feeds through the bottom, with a clamp, and drops into a cassette holder on top of my printer cabinet. Lines up with the filament detector, very fast change.
Brilliant! I have a Tupperware Cereal container already!
Best solution is a simple solution you are very underrated ....very good make bro ...
looks fantastic! Just be careful with the blue silica gel, the indicator is cobalt chloride which is carcinogenic. I have read contradictory information about the toxicity of the orange gel too, so to be sure I'd just go with the colourless one. Other than that, super helpful, tyvm!
You are right, luckily I haven't had to touch the gel since the day of assembly. However because of the humidity sensor, it is not like the indicator is necessary anyways.
Originally I was not aware of this, I'll try and get non-indicator gel next time.
It's not like he's eating the silica gel and skin contact is very minimal. I think the danger is minimal. You could always just wear disposable gloves when handling it. But in any case, you should wash your hands before you eat or handle food every time. Just common sense precautions. Of course there is ample evidence that some don't have common sense when companies are required to put warning labels on silica gel stating do not eat.
@@vhoward1122 So true.. common sense isn't very common!.. a QVC customer left some feedback on the site that berated some beauty product capsules that supposed to help her skin. 'They do not do anything for me! she said.. it didn't help that she wasn't breaking open the capsules as was demonstrated and placing the product on her face.. BUT swallowing them!!!!!!
I picked up a brightroom latching ornament bin from Target for $13. It will easily hold four spools. It doesn't seal as tight but it should be more than adequate.
great video.... knew you were from canada once i saw the jobmate rotary tool and the home hardware drill
Instead of using silica gel I use those closet dehumidifier tubs and sachets you can get at Tesco, Daiso and other places. The popular brand here is "Thirsty Hippo", though I usually just buy the Tesco branded stuff. These contain calcium chloride, which absorbs a LOT of water, a lot more than silica gel does. The sachet or pouch versions have a gelling agent mixed in so when the calcium chloride becomes wet it doesn't leak out. If you keep your container sealed, the tubs or sachets last pretty much forever. The sachets are either scented, or contain activated charcoal to absorb odors, this is the type I like to use. I store my filaments in big Tupperware style buckets, four spools to a bucket, with a sachet on top and a small hygrometer - the humidity will go down to 18-22%. I haven't built a printing dry box like this yet - I figure once I start printing with nylon I'd need one, for PETG, for now, I'll just leave it in the bucket until I need the spool. I do have a bunch of silica gel, salvaged from packets that come with filament and with medicine - I use that for keeping electronics items dry because the calcium chloride might cause corrosion.
Actually, silica gel dries to a lower humidity than CaCl. And it regenerates. And it changes colour when it is used up. And it does not get wet.
Nice solution. I am currently using IKEA 360 Dry box. and it fit for 2 spool.. but I think I prefer for 1 dry box for 1 spool because I have being printing 3D Model that I design and required to change filament in middle of printing.. since 2 spool inside the dry box, it required me to open the lid and cause the moist to go into the container. I think with 1 dry box with single spool inside (like your video) it is best solution that suit my print project.
Thanks for share.
I'm glad I could help.
Good Job. Simple easy to understand steps. Thanks for sharing
Man, can not find Rubbermaid 1861476 anywhere. The opeque ones are a lot cheaper though, in fact I could only find them in two packs for as much as one 1861476 cost. I think I'll make 4 of these as I might one day get the Prusa MMU2S. That and I rarely have more than 4 spools at a time.
Thanks for this video though, you have the best solution I have seen so far.
You can dry the air inside the container fairly quickly but the filament it takes days to dry fully to the same level as the air inside the container.
Love your solution, simple and useful
Thanks!
I have a Rubbermaid 5 liter box with red lid that also works well, very similar proportions. You could probably just toss the humidity sensor in the bottom of the box, or use a little double stick tape, silicone or Goop glue to attach to the plastic wall, no need to drill the fiddly large hole. Nice work though thanks!
Fully agree, you'll be able to clearly see the hygrometer inside the container.
Looks cooler this way tho 😁
Very nice design.
Hello Gadge Eye, You should also share with readers when the desiccant bags with Silica due lower the humidity, what happens when equilibrium is met, the humidity jumps back up.
Thanks for your video
The box is transparent, you don‘t need to drill a hole for the humidity sensor, you could just glue it from the inside to the wall or lay it inside the box…
i think in this way it looks more elegant than glueing
nice work, polymaker is probably upset.
Please tell me you have a link for those exact Tupperwares? Been looking everywhere
Nice neat solution that doesn't cost the earth. Does the feed from the container become more difficult as the spool gets used up?
I cant say yet for sure, I've only used half a roll.
However, I did place the bowden tube fitting around the midpoint of the roll, so it should be similar when the roll is full, as when it is empty. I don't think the resistance will be a problem for my extruder.
Thats cool
What size Nut did you use to attach the Bowden Tube fitting to the container. Is the fitting not a pipe thread?
Your affiliate links sent me to amazon canada, which I couldn't use. Hopefully it still gives you a kickback. Are you able to provide separate USA links?
Hola, ¿cómo se llama ese envase y donde lo compraste?
Nice solution. What drill bit size did you use for the Bowden tube fitting?
The fitting used an M6 nut, so I drilled 1/4".
Nice! What do they call that style of container?
Thanks, 21 cups in size, they usually refer to it as a dry foods container. It believe the main purpose is cereal storage, and similar goods.
How long does the humidity sensor last on batteries?
A long ass time considering it's a colorless LCD display
Gel... countinues to pour grains of silica
Hi there, if I was to make this setup for rolls that have been left out , do you think this will be sufficient to pull the moisture out of each roll in it’s own container or should I heat/bake each roll to remove moisture 1st and then install in the container set up. Thank you for any help.
It may over a very long period of time, but realistically if your roll is saturated you need to dry it with heat.
Luckily it is quite easy, you can place the roll in an oven for a few hours on the lowest temperature. Just keep a close eye on it and make sure the reel doesn't melt or deform.
Like! But this silika gel contain Cobalt Chloride which may pose health risk!
Can you share where you found the nut to go on that PC4-M6 pneumatic fitting? It's not in the Amazon listing... Thanks
You can purchase nuts at a local hardware store. I didn't include it, because I believe most people have, or should have some lying around.
@@GadgetEyeGuides no unfortunately I don't have any m6 nuts lying around right off hand. I can purchase them online but how can I be sure the thread will fit?
would there be a way to make a mutibox version with a easy way to swtich between colours.
Multi-reel boxes require you to open it every reel change- letting air in. More reels, more air. Plus you cannot incrementally add reels. One per reel is the way to go.
I think the hole for the sensor is not necessary.
What is the diameter and width of the filament spool used in your video?
1.75mm says on the econofil spool near the end of the vid
How does it react to retraction?
The filament will return into the box as slack. Once the printer returns to printing, the slack will be quickly taken up without issue.
When changing filament, I generally avoid returning slack back into the container, I just leave it hanging out the end of the bowden tube.
The blue Silica gel is not food safe, I wouldn't dry them on a oven for food. The orange Silica gel is safer.
Since this Tupperware is no longer available this is moot
🔥💕👍
slt , pourquoi la silice est bleu ??
The gel contains an indicator, which turns transparent when wet. As another user pointed out, this indicator is carcinogenic.
Because I already use a humidity sensor, I will probably switch to a non-indicator gel in the future.
When you say m6 drill do you mean 5.5mm like you would use to drill for an m6 tap
No. I did not tap the box, I suppose you could however.
I used a nut, so I drilled a hole larger than 6 mm using a 1/4" bit, or rather 6.35 mm.
@@GadgetEyeGuides Ah, that seems a bit different than the video. So drill 1/4in and then press the nut into hole?
@@fozbstudios Yes.
Better activate that Windows bro.
Never lol
My house is at 16%.... guess i dont need this lol
Depends on the temperature- you are reading RH (relative humidity) not the amount of moisture.
Does wearing a lab coat make you feel like a scientist or do you wear it to increase your credibility? BTW, your dry box design is rather poor. You will have far less friction with a hanging single roller than a double roller at the base. Also, drilling a hole for the hygrometer is not necessary (and not airtight because you used no sealant) because it can be visibly be mounted inside the box.
To answer, I like the lab coat for several reasons. Yes, it does lend some credibility, but I primarily wear it because it is lightweight, comfortable, fairly-breathable, and keeps the sun off during the hot summer days.
A single roller design would produce less friction, however the current design is adequate in many regards, as it allows easy loading, and unloading, and requires no significant modification to the container.
I am aware that drilling a hole for the hygrometer is not actually necessary, but I felt it improved the appearance of the design. It is also airtight, because I did use a sealant during the installation.
In my testing, the current design works quite well, although there is room for some improvement. I may consider a single roller design, in the future, but as of yet, the spool holder functions too well to justify dedicating any resources to updating it.
Actually, a hanging roller requires more pulling force to unwind than rim rollers. This is because the filament to pivot distance is greater to the rim, so a given friction level requires less torque. In practice it is irrelevant, as the available force is more than sufficient for either.