Nice! I have a zero power, passive, low cost idea for long term ,easy fast access, storage. Purchase a big plastic box with airtight lid, fill the floor with a few inches of Silica crystals that absorb water. Get another smaller box to house your filament spools made from any mesh. Make sure you have a few inches between the inner box and outer box, also fill space with Silica crystals, make sure the lid also has a layer of silica. A 50kg sac used for making Beer is a low cost bulk price. & wont pass the mesh. After use just but the spools back. seal lid,. Maybe to preserve the crystals for long term storage , can add a small vacuum pump, to remove the air from the box. If the crystals ever get to wet, just dry them in an oven or the sun. If you are worried some filaments get wet unopened? Just fill a bin with those crystals and bury your stock until needed. A clever designer would take that idea, and could build that around an ,in use, spool hooked up to a working machine. and the 6 x silica panels would be removable for easy drying.
It would be nice if there were also written directions, but this is a good video. I have printed out the parts and I'm putting mine together, but it's ever so slightly too narrow for prusa filament (of the two I've tried, the other I tried is esun, which just barely fits). I've taken the bottom sled and cut out a little of the material near the ball bearings to allow the prusament rolls to fit. Also, what is the file cap-nut-10mm.stl for?
Yes, some rolls are just a little bit too large. To try and fix this, I also designed a slightly different box base, which is a bit wider and works for all but my widest rolls: www.printables.com/model/930569-a-wider-dry-filament-box-for-3-d-printing The cap nut is used to hold a 10mm (actually 1/8NPT) Festo connector if that one is used instead of the 8mm version. Hope this helps.
Wonderful you fix one of four problems I have that have stop dead cold in buying Prusa however the noise needs to come down to what Bambu Lab A1 is doing the third problem I might be able to fix because of the box you made, but the price I don't see that being fixed SAD it is way to high! I really like the Prusa MK 4S, but I can't! This is one great video thumb up with new SUB here thank you!
I have mk3s+ so interesting to me, but i agree mk4 is too expensive. upgrade of mk3 579, so cheaper to sell the mk3 on ebay and just get a new mk4. But i won't because too high. My mk3s is great though. I hate bambu because it is like Apple proprietary crap and they will probably steal your designs on their cloud. I have seem reports about stuff appearing on makerworld without permission.
Seems pretty difficult to get the spool in. Having the filament exit near the bottom rather than the top would probably simplify that and reduce the risk of the box tipping over if the filament would be pulled sideways.
Not all that hard to actually do it. The reason it is on the top is to put it on the level of the MMU feed tube coming out the side of the enclosure; this minimizes the amount of curvature of the tube and thus the drag of the filament. This is particularly necessary for matte or glass/carbon filled filaments
@@Anders12th unless you're very bad at cooking your Teflon coated pots and pans shouldn't get to the temps required to release toxic fumes. Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), also known as Teflon, can start to release fumes at temperatures as low as 260°C (500°F), but symptoms in humans usually don't appear until it's heated to 350°C (662°F).
Holy crap yeah this, DO NOT DO WHAT HE DID! PTFE emits incredibly toxic fumes if heated much beyond 250C, this is why all metal heat brakes took over so fast.
Great video, thank you. I'd love to see the dry boxes in action with the MMU3. 😀
Great video, well documented and good instructions. Thank you!
Very interesting. Nice solution to the unloading of the mmu.
Nice! I have a zero power, passive, low cost idea for long term ,easy fast access, storage. Purchase a big plastic box with airtight lid, fill the floor with a few inches of Silica crystals that absorb water. Get another smaller box to house your filament spools made from any mesh. Make sure you have a few inches between the inner box and outer box, also fill space with Silica crystals, make sure the lid also has a layer of silica. A 50kg sac used for making Beer is a low cost bulk price. & wont pass the mesh. After use just but the spools back. seal lid,. Maybe to preserve the crystals for long term storage , can add a small vacuum pump, to remove the air from the box. If the crystals ever get to wet, just dry them in an oven or the sun. If you are worried some filaments get wet unopened? Just fill a bin with those crystals and bury your stock until needed. A clever designer would take that idea, and could build that around an ,in use, spool hooked up to a working machine. and the 6 x silica panels would be removable for easy drying.
Thanks for sharing. Nice job
Very nice
Nice job and video. Thanks for sharing that.
It would be nice if there were also written directions, but this is a good video. I have printed out the parts and I'm putting mine together, but it's ever so slightly too narrow for prusa filament (of the two I've tried, the other I tried is esun, which just barely fits). I've taken the bottom sled and cut out a little of the material near the ball bearings to allow the prusament rolls to fit.
Also, what is the file cap-nut-10mm.stl for?
Yes, some rolls are just a little bit too large. To try and fix this, I also designed a slightly different box base, which is a bit wider and works for all but my widest rolls:
www.printables.com/model/930569-a-wider-dry-filament-box-for-3-d-printing
The cap nut is used to hold a 10mm (actually 1/8NPT) Festo connector if that one is used instead of the 8mm version.
Hope this helps.
Wonderful you fix one of four problems I have that have stop dead cold in buying Prusa however the noise needs to come down to what Bambu Lab A1 is doing the third problem I might be able to fix because of the box you made, but the price I don't see that being fixed SAD it is way to high! I really like the Prusa MK 4S, but I can't! This is one great video thumb up with new SUB here thank you!
I have mk3s+ so interesting to me, but i agree mk4 is too expensive. upgrade of mk3 579, so cheaper to sell the mk3 on ebay and just get a new mk4. But i won't because too high. My mk3s is great though. I hate bambu because it is like Apple proprietary crap and they will probably steal your designs on their cloud. I have seem reports about stuff appearing on makerworld without permission.
Thanks for the video. Can you tell us what type of strainer/sifter you used to hold the desiccant in the lid? I'm not sure what to search for.
If you look at the printables link in the description, you can find a printable 'dessicant-basket'; that is what I used.
@@stephenwardlaw6428 , got it. Thanks
Do Prusament spools fit as well (due to their width)?
It should fit in the wider version I put up on Printables: www.printables.com/model/930569-a-wider-dry-filament-box-for-3-d-printing
Great idea, Wouldn't it be simpler to have a SUNLU S4 drybox, for 4 rolls, and connect each tube for each filament?
It would be less work, but costs a lot more and, IMHO, is a less flexible solution.
Hi please tell me what maximum coil width fits on the shaft, thank you
The original version fits a 65mm roll; the wider version (in the second 'Printables') fits a 78mm roll.
Ikea 365 boxes is also a good alternative :)
Seems pretty difficult to get the spool in. Having the filament exit near the bottom rather than the top would probably simplify that and reduce the risk of the box tipping over if the filament would be pulled sideways.
Not all that hard to actually do it. The reason it is on the top is to put it on the level of the MMU feed tube coming out the side of the enclosure; this minimizes the amount of curvature of the tube and thus the drag of the filament. This is particularly necessary for matte or glass/carbon filled filaments
Hi please tell me what kind of yellow caps these are, where can I get them?
Print the file ‘axles’. It prints out axles which replace the aluminum tubes and caps.
Heating up teflon like that creates toxic fumes.
I thought teflon was used on non-Stock pans.
@@Anders12th unless you're very bad at cooking your Teflon coated pots and pans shouldn't get to the temps required to release toxic fumes.
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), also known as Teflon, can start to release fumes at temperatures as low as 260°C (500°F), but symptoms in humans usually don't appear until it's heated to 350°C (662°F).
Holy crap yeah this, DO NOT DO WHAT HE DID!
PTFE emits incredibly toxic fumes if heated much beyond 250C, this is why all metal heat brakes took over so fast.