Poor guy. All you had to do was put the control arm pivot bolt in from the front. The openings are two different sizes. So you sanded it, pounded it and even froze it to send it through a hole that was just plain too small. Now you might have a little more slop in the system from the resize. 😢
@@CarsBikesandCoffee I am, the car has just had all the body work done and has been painted so I've had the suspension off and I've used this video to be able to work out what goes where and as I'm using the same bushing kit as you this is a great to watch so thank you you're video has been great
Awesome! Keep me updated on your build! We will be getting back to the 260z here soon, working out a few logistics and have a couple other quick cars in between!
The bolts that hold the sway bar to the body of the car are the ones that get torqued to spec with load on the vehicle, not the endlinks. Per the factory service manual.
+hho man yeah, and also talked to energy suspension. Basically don’t remove the outer sleeve of the old bushing. Which is nuts because everything else on the Z is remove the whole thing. Here’s a link to my IG post about it
In the video you brought up the point of using one rubber and one poly bushing on the tension arms. But afterwards, it's looks as if you just used two poly instead. Could you clear that up for me? Thanks! Great video by the way.
+Tony Aponte yeah sorry for the confusion. It was brought to my attention mid-filming. So definitely use one poly and one rubber. From what I understand the poly doesn’t give enough and some have had breaking issues from have have both being poly. Thanks for watching!
If the grease is that bad use laquer thinner that will strip all and any grease. The steering rack bolt is double nutted.Box wrenches are the length they are because the handle has the proper t orque designed in the length of the wrench. Id use two box wrenches and tighten , then the nut. Thats safe. Good video love seeing Datsun put oroperly back together and back on the road where they beling great great great....almost forgot to hit like ...let me do that right now.!
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee im building 2 Z cars my srlf good editing as well thats a whole additional energy.Good job Those new bushings the metal inner bushing are ussually cut. Leaving a. Sharp edge which makes the mounting bolt need a talk with Mr Orange. A round file the edge would help a smoother install. P.S. on the video side you may need to cut and paste tags from Z videos that have more veiws into your tags.You deserve more veiws and thats the fastest way of getting there quicker
I looked in the FSM a little bit but i dont see any specified torque for those bolts?.... I would say that 25 ft-lbs is about the right torque tho. Glad seeing another video!
+steelofcrom some people burn the bushing out but I found that drilling holes in the bushing, removing the inner metal and some of the rubber, then with a metal saw cut the outer metal casing of the bushing then pushing it out did the trick. or if you have a press lol
Hey! Just discovered your channel, finally some good technical videos involving a Z. Couple questions for you, what was your process for cleaning all of those components up? They look great! Also, how was the undercarriage of the car? Did you have to do any metal work, or did you just clean it up? Thanks!
Thanks so much! For cleaning up parts I use a degreaser and then either paint stripper and/or a wire wheel. I’m pretty lucky with the undercarriage, it has all the original metal in good condition. So just a little clean up and undercoating was needed under the main body and paint under the frame rails.
Love your videos, especially the engine ones as that is the same block/head combo i am going to run, but I have to ask what on earth were you thinking with not cleaning up/replacing your ball joints. All that beautiful engine bay and front end work and you got some greasy ugly ball joints. Also a fresh coat of paint on the struts/spindles and tie rods would have really wrapped up the front end. either way great work and love the videos.
Thanks! Ha, I knew someone was going to notice. They are ugly. The plan is to come back to it. Hoping to do coil overs, so didn’t want to put too much work only to tear it apart. Also, of course replace the ball joints. Keeping the budget in line while I do this is also the goal. Thanks for watching!
Yeah, I agree, however when budget is ready the plan is to go to coilovers and replace the ball joints. The good news is as ugly as they are, they are still in good condition to get me there. Thanks for watching!
Hand cleaner. Permatex Blue Label www.permatex.com/products/hand-care/hand-cleaners/dl-permatex-blue-label-cream-hand-cleaner/ It's petroleum based, gets everything off and wont hash up your hands like a straight solvent will.
Yeah, shortly after making the video I realized with some help. There’s a note in the description I made back then about it. Thanks for pointing it out though!🤘🏻
@@CarsBikesandCoffee I was a little last with that comment. Hope I didn’t come across rude. Great work though. I’ll see how I get on but mine have been good with Poly on both sides. 👍
Poor guy. All you had to do was put the control arm pivot bolt in from the front. The openings are two different sizes. So you sanded it, pounded it and even froze it to send it through a hole that was just plain too small. Now you might have a little more slop in the system from the resize. 😢
Great video bro love the run down of all the specs very helpful, I've also got a late 72 -73 🤙🏼
Thanks man! Right on!!🤘🏻 thanks for watching
Great video, love the technical details also a great reference point for anyone rebuilding their suspension. Thanks 👍
+Geoff Ryall thank you so much! Appreciate you watching! You building up a Z?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee I am, the car has just had all the body work done and has been painted so I've had the suspension off and I've used this video to be able to work out what goes where and as I'm using the same bushing kit as you this is a great to watch so thank you you're video has been great
Awesome! Keep me updated on your build! We will be getting back to the 260z here soon, working out a few logistics and have a couple other quick cars in between!
Just started this disassembly this morning super helpful as always mate cheers 🍺
+Mark Blades way to tackle it! Stoked it helped!
Glad I rewatched this one mate. I had the sway bar upside down compared to yours 👍 thank you as always
Ah right on!!
Great video love the music and what we see looks superb!
The bolts that hold the sway bar to the body of the car are the ones that get torqued to spec with load on the vehicle, not the endlinks. Per the factory service manual.
Use Tub O Towels to get the Lube off you hands. It also works on Silicon caulking you might use around your house or really in any application.
I’ll have to give them a try, thanks!
Everything you are doing corresponds with my build. Really helpin me through this lol
That is awesome to hear! Good luck with your build! What are you working on?
1978 280z track car!
Quin atakara sounds awesome!
Did u ever figure out a solution for the transmission mount. I also removed the inner steel
+hho man yeah, and also talked to energy suspension. Basically don’t remove the outer sleeve of the old bushing. Which is nuts because everything else on the Z is remove the whole thing. Here’s a link to my IG post about it
instagram.com/p/BktXikdHBlc/?igshid=1pwky96rkveao
So happy to have found your channel brother! Super informative with what you're doing. Helps a ton!
Right on! Thanks so much for watching!
In the video you brought up the point of using one rubber and one poly bushing on the tension arms. But afterwards, it's looks as if you just used two poly instead. Could you clear that up for me? Thanks! Great video by the way.
+Tony Aponte yeah sorry for the confusion. It was brought to my attention mid-filming. So definitely use one poly and one rubber. From what I understand the poly doesn’t give enough and some have had breaking issues from have have both being poly. Thanks for watching!
You don't eff with or back-sass Mr. Orange! >:D
If the grease is that bad use laquer thinner that will strip all and any grease.
The steering rack bolt is double nutted.Box wrenches are the length they are because the handle has the proper t orque designed in the length of the wrench.
Id use two box wrenches and tighten , then the nut. Thats safe.
Good video love seeing Datsun put oroperly back together and back on the road where they beling great great great....almost forgot to hit like ...let me do that right now.!
MindDezign thanks for the info and for watching!
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee im building 2 Z cars my srlf good editing as well thats a whole additional energy.Good job
Those new bushings the metal inner bushing are ussually cut. Leaving a. Sharp edge which makes the mounting bolt need a talk with Mr Orange. A round file the edge would help a smoother install.
P.S. on the video side you may need to cut and paste tags from Z videos that have more veiws into your tags.You deserve more veiws and thats the fastest way of getting there quicker
MindDezign thanks for the advice! Not sure how to find what other videos have as their tags.
Cars, Bikes, and Coffee forgot the link ruclips.net/video/c4mdciFNtSQ/видео.html
hey buddy.... your undercoating looks killer... what did you use? Can you share any thoughts on it? thanks, love your videos
Hey! Thanks, I’ve had good luck with Rustoleum undercoating. Appreciate you watching!🤘🏻
I thought the dished side goes toward the bushing?
Good eye, just updating the description as it was brought to my attention earlier. Thanks for watching!
@@CarsBikesandCoffee So just to be clear... did you only go with one of the new bushings per compression rod?? or two?
Just one new bushing, then rubber bushing on the other side. I can’t remember if I made an update in the description.
I looked in the FSM a little bit but i dont see any specified torque for those bolts?.... I would say that 25 ft-lbs is about the right torque tho. Glad seeing another video!
Right on, thanks for looking into it and thanks for watching!
Did you used the original spring on the struts I can't get them to fit with the control arm
Mine have lowering springs. To big or two small?
@@CarsBikesandCoffee Thankyou i found out, i had the wrong side knuckle arm lol
Ha! Right on, glad you solved it! 🤘🏻
Did you lube the pinion gear to the steering shaft with anything or install it dry?
Just a little grease so there’s not metal to metal contact
How did you get the old bushings out of the co troll arms?
+steelofcrom some people burn the bushing out but I found that drilling holes in the bushing, removing the inner metal and some of the rubber, then with a metal saw cut the outer metal casing of the bushing then pushing it out did the trick. or if you have a press lol
Hey! Just discovered your channel, finally some good technical videos involving a Z. Couple questions for you, what was your process for cleaning all of those components up? They look great! Also, how was the undercarriage of the car? Did you have to do any metal work, or did you just clean it up? Thanks!
Thanks so much! For cleaning up parts I use a degreaser and then either paint stripper and/or a wire wheel. I’m pretty lucky with the undercarriage, it has all the original metal in good condition. So just a little clean up and undercoating was needed under the main body and paint under the frame rails.
Use vegetable oil to absorb the grease then use dish soap to wash off the oil it should work
Dawkin Schmidt I will give it a try! Thanks! 🤘🏻🔥
Love your videos, especially the engine ones as that is the same block/head combo i am going to run, but I have to ask what on earth were you thinking with not cleaning up/replacing your ball joints. All that beautiful engine bay and front end work and you got some greasy ugly ball joints. Also a fresh coat of paint on the struts/spindles and tie rods would have really wrapped up the front end. either way great work and love the videos.
Thanks! Ha, I knew someone was going to notice. They are ugly. The plan is to come back to it. Hoping to do coil overs, so didn’t want to put too much work only to tear it apart. Also, of course replace the ball joints. Keeping the budget in line while I do this is also the goal. Thanks for watching!
Duggyb B T3 is awesome, I’m lucky to have them close by. Sounds like an awesome build you have!
All that work and you didn't clean the rack parts or ball joints. Great video though.
Yeah, I agree, however when budget is ready the plan is to go to coilovers and replace the ball joints. The good news is as ugly as they are, they are still in good condition to get me there. Thanks for watching!
Hand cleaner. Permatex Blue Label
www.permatex.com/products/hand-care/hand-cleaners/dl-permatex-blue-label-cream-hand-cleaner/
It's petroleum based, gets everything off and wont hash up your hands like a straight solvent will.
Thanks! I’m going to have to try it out!
Your radius rod washers are the wrong way round
Yeah, shortly after making the video I realized with some help. There’s a note in the description I made back then about it. Thanks for pointing it out though!🤘🏻
@@CarsBikesandCoffee I was a little last with that comment. Hope I didn’t come across rude. Great work though.
I’ll see how I get on but mine have been good with Poly on both sides. 👍
7:35 you are missing tie rod end bushings don't you?
The boot? Yeah, was going to eventually replace the tie rod and do the boot then. Good eye! Thanks for watching!
like
Wd40 will remove and clean your hands😜
I use 91% rubbing alcohol.