1939 Ford Junkyard Hot Rod Revival - Ep. 15
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- Опубликовано: 14 окт 2024
- The 1939 Ford Forgotten Hot Rod came factory with a single circuit brake system and drum brakes all around. While we will be keeping the drum brakes, we are going to be adding a little bit of modern safety to the braking system. Thanks to Old Yankee Speed Co, we are going to be using a more modern dual circuit master cylinder. Old Yankee produces an adapter plate that allows you to bolt up a Mustang master cylinder. We also will be using a MAC's hydraulic brake rebuild kit (minus the master) to freshen up the brakes. This car has been sitting since the 60s so all the wheel cylinders and springs should be replaced. Matt also shows off the Eastwood Pro Flaring tool, and a few tips and tricks for custom brake lines. This project is really coming together and we cant wait to take it for a spin!!
Products Used -
Old Yankee Speed Co Master Cyl Adapter - www.millworksh...
MAC's Hydraulic Brake Rebuild - www.macsautopa...
Get 15% Off Your Eastwood Order With The Coupon Code ITG15 At Checkout * Some Products Excluded -
Tools Used -
Eastwood Professional Brake Line Flaring Tool - www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood Handheld Tubing Straighteners - www.eastwood.c...
Eastwood 4N1 Tubing Bender - www.eastwood.c...
Professional Ratcheting Tubing Cutter - www.eastwood.c...
Music Used -
Intro/Outro - Don't Look - Silent Partner - RUclips Music Library
Love Peace and Fuzz Pedals 1 - Victor Olsson - Epidemic Music Library
Flaming Eightballs 3 - Victor Olsson - Epidemic Music Library
Marches - Tigerblood Jewel - Epidemic Music Library
Hot Rod Rebels 1 - Victor Olsson - Epidemic Music Library
Get your Iron Trap Shirts Here - irontrapgarage...
Best investment I've ever made. Even flared stainless nicely.
Desperately searching for a playlist with the bute of a box truck. Sittin over yander.
I like what you did right by the drive line for the back on this blog
It's rare to see someone retain the drum brakes on a street rod but I like the look. That's how it would have been back in the day. My old man had a drum puller just like the one you used. I can remember seeing him beat the shit out of it with a big sledge hammer to get the rear drums off his rusty old Ford sedan. This old school build has brought back many fond memories for me and I can't wait to see it on the road.
Thanks for watching Ray! We're trying to build it as it would have been build back when it was first hot-rodded in the late 50's! The brakes work well if they're all adjusted up correctly! -Matt/ITG
G'day Matt keep up the great work watching with interest downunder. Jezza
Thanks for watching Jeremy! -Matt/ITG
@@IronTrapGarage YVW Matt be safe always mate
A tubing straightener??? Man, I had no idea about that or that flaring tool from eastwood. I did it the old school way- 2 piece flare tool and hand straightened all my copper nickel lines. Took awhile, but came out looking great too. I found a great little tubing bender at harbor freight that gives super tight 90° bends very close to the fitting. Perfect for the wheel cylinder and master cylinder ends where there may not be a lot of room. It was less than 10 bux, and it also does not suck. Love seeing the 39 being resurrected! Waiting for the "firewall fixing video", keep wrenching guys!
Thanks for watching Mark, I'll take a look at that bender! -Matt/ITG
I’m learning from this. CuNi looks like the way to go for custom lines. Makes installation much easier!
I would still use a tubing bender. I realize hand bending is functionally fine and safe but consistent radius bends just look more pro.
I've found a lot of the benders can kink copper nickel because it's softer. On a budget-build like this I think the way I did it looks good and works just fine. -Matt/ITG
Chassis/frame looks mint, first class paint finish, nice work, a pleasure to see, well done!
Thanks for watching Kim! -Matt/ITG
This project is flying past!
LOVE that you are now crediting the music. Like it.
Thanks for all the suggestions to do so, we're trying to listen and tweak things to what everyone asks for! Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
Way to go Mac’s ! Now I know where I’m ordering stuff for my Model A project! Wow, that frame cleaned up awesome!
Make sure you tell them we sent ya! -Matt/ITG
An awesome video and some great tips on using that flaring tool. The junkyard hot rod is coming along.
Great explanations and tips. Gary
Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
I really appreciate the work you put into making professional looking videos, especially using a tripod and static shots. I get nauseous when the camera jerks around and I have to skip content when that happens, or just give up on a channel entirely. Your scenes are well lit and the audio is clear and intelligible. Kudos for coherent dialog too. I'll probably never have an old Ford hot rod, but I do have a couple of 50+ year old Volvo's, so I'm not in any pain, except when I have to lean over the fender for too long ;)
Thanks for the compliments! We try and keep the videos as stable as possible for easy viewing! Thanks for watching, old Volvos are cool too! -Matt/ITG
Making brake lines were something the hardest things to get right on my restoration of my project cars ! I had a hand set! (Brake tool ) Thanks for sharing Regards BobLee
Thanks for watching Bob! -Matt/ITG
Looking great! I own a Gremlin, but its all good....Also own 12 Pacers...I may be at Hershey, If I make it I will stop by and say Hi...
I have a 76 gremlin x,302 ford three speed manual. I love this car only one in the parking lot. Fun car to drive.
Wish I had a pacer, grandparents bought one off the show room floor in 1980. Again fun car to drive, easy to find in the parking lot.
Matt if you come across a piece of 12 two or 10 two Romax wire strip the cover off of it but leave the cover on the wire take the plastic jacket off then you can bend the Romax wire anywhere you want and get the full length of the tubing did you need and you can start with that and then you get a pattern it’s just something I thought about but I’m scrounging I have all kinds of stuff hanging around just like you piece of Romax wire take the heavy plastic cover off that holds the three of them together and leave the regular cover on it and then you can warm it up and put up on the wall on a nail and another for next job just an FYI junkman do
Thanks for the tip we'll try that!
Great how-to tutorial Matt. Thanks for sharing!
Rusty Regards,
Don
Frame looks great an great line I ve used it a time or so makes life so much easier
I like these instructional videos, keep up the good work. That 39 frame is looking good, can't wait for the next video.
Thanks Matt and Mike.
Nice, good to know that there's kits available. I used a gremlin master cylinder on my AMC Rambler gasser and it was a pain finding one, the first one had the threads pulled out of it, and they thought it was my fault, suck a pain
I had that problem too with the threads... had to modify a tap to go up to the larger size fitting... but we made it work and doesn't leak!
Matt that 39 Ford is really coming along nice that frame looks awesome with. you guys are doing an excellent job.... Jose
Nice work
You did a great job with the brake system boys, I tell you that I was watching several videos of you mainly from the Ford T free project, and that car was amazing painting a mirror! and note that in the last videos the four-legged main assistant does not appear aparece I had a similar brown and white dog and his name was Piston. I send you a hug from Argentina.
Thanks for watching Horacio!
Great content. New subscriber, but I’m all caught up on this build. I really enjoy watching your finesse, even with basic tasks. 👍👍☮️
Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
great video! i like this kind of stuff.
gotta get it to stop guys. Looks so good now. 👍
love NiCop
That is some interesting master cylinder placement, I wonder how that would have worked with modern road salt usage.
It’s how Ford did it for many many years.
Great progress 🤙🤙
I guess if you box the frame in its a lot more rigid and safer. Boyd Coddington said it was a must to make it safe. I saw that on his show about ten years ago.
Nice job on the brakes Matt, thanks for giving us a lesson on using that fine bender. Good to know you are a Gremlin fan, haha. Nice to know about that Jeep master cylinder with the line connections on the opposite side. We will keep the Gremlin thing a secret.. Hey whatever it takes, after all we do use Vega steering boxes don't we?
the older amc cars and jeeps was a bastardized mix of parts from all the big 3 automakers ford, gm and chrysler. parts could be cross referenced to their catalogs. it doesn't surprise me that a jeep master cylinder worked for this job on the 1939 ford. dual cylinder definitely.i had an old 1965 plymouth fury back when that the single cylinder master cylinder went out on. a very scary feeling and ride home. i was able to use the parking brake with the handle pulled out to stop and kept the trans in low/second moving very slow. that was slow and clumsy but it got me home on a wing and a prayer. ( first year the feds dictated dual master cylinders on us autos and trucks was 1969. better than no control at all) your life is in that braking system. do it right and safe or you will get a ride in a caddy all right. a cadillac hearse hauling you to the cemetery after you die in a crash caused by bad brakes or braking system.
Good video I think I'm going with the c/n brake lines on my '51 Ford, it looks so much easier than the stainless steel I was fighting with since it's not a body off frame restoration.
You won't want to go back after using copper-nickel on a build! -Matt/ITG
I've also used the copper nickle brake tubing on several vehicles (and like it), and it is easy to bend, and the corrosion resistance is supposed to be higher than steel tubing. However, sometimes I wonder if it's too easy to bend. By that I mean, you have to be careful of the tubing runs later when working on the car because the tubing does bend so easy. If you do jostle/get up against the tubing with a tool or part, make sure it's not moved enough to rub on the frame or other component and create a wear spot. I support the copper nickle tubing with more supports (clips, adel clamps, etc) than would be used with steel/stainless tubing. (My opinion, I would think twice before using this tubing on a vehicle that might be run at times offroad where the tubing could get snagged by underbrush or damaged/dented by rocks/logs/etc. -- in this situation, steel or stainless steel might provide some extra resistance to damage.) This is all based on my experience, and offered in a constructive manner to help others.
Great tips! I've never had an issue with them needing additional support but I totally see where you're coming from with that theory. Thanks for the tips we're all learning! -Matt/ITG
Matt, I see you don't use any type of lubricant when flaring your brake lines. I thought Eastwood recommended anti-seize. That is what I have used then spray it off with brake clean. Also, it's good to see Mike out of the hospital after being skewered (twice) by your tractor bucket! LOL Have fun @ Hershey!
Copper/nickel excellent. Thank you.
I have a 48 Mercury Monarch coupe and I have the same problem with fitting a modern master cylinder and retaining the stock brakes . I cant bend the 1/4 inch lines because of being too close to the x member. I will fit the AMC Jeep part and redo the 2 middle brake lines. Thanks for the info. It is greatly appreciated.
Rear drum puller I would think is a must when there is a tapered axil shaft.
Yea not sure how I lived without one for so many years! -Matt/ITG
@@IronTrapGarage Matt you forgot to explain that to people who don't know this.
Love it Matt...you make it look so easy. Unfortunately all those parts you just can't get in Australia....can you post up details of where you get your parts from and if they post to Australia? It'd be great to get Eastwood Products but th weird online sales page won't provision overseas sales addresses.
I noticed you have a dual diameter front wheel cylinder on the left front. From what I saw in a youtube video from elderlyiron titled "Napco Studebaker Brake Installation Crusty Old Grand Dad 1957 Chevy 4x4 Truck" on Napco 4X4 front brake set up the wheel cylinder you have on the left front should be installed on the right front. Looks like the bigger bore should be toward the rear of the vehicle.
Super cool video, I’m guessing the drums had no ridges and were in spec and no warpage. Is there different compounds available for the shoes that might change the brake performance? New vehicles using EBC or Hawk pads for better braking performance is the reference point for the question.
The easiest way to install countersunk allan head screws is to use the long shaft of the KEY in the screw
I'm kinda curious if you touched up that area you machined to allow the brake cylinder adapter to mount without touching the frame.
Otherwise raw metal is begging for corrosion to reappear.
Just something that'd bug an old Coast Guard seaplane / helo Flt. Mechanic like me.
Wish I could make it down to Hershey but I have to work.
Nice upgrade on the master cylinder. I notice it doesn`t have a brake light switch like the OEM. Any plans for that ? Will the new floor include a custom access door for the newer master cylinder ? Keep up the good work :-)
I am going to make a mount for a mechanical switch since we couldn't utilize the original on this master cylinder. Thanks for watching! -Matt/ITG
that yellow roaster intrigues me, also meat truck
Yellow roadster was pulled out of a local barn and a friend is putting it together in my shop for himself and the meat truck is my swap meet hauler!
@@IronTrapGarage see, I have good taste lol
Last time I did lines I used the standard steel as it came from the parts supplier I was buying everything else for and was pre flared ready to roll but needed to be bent. Next time I’ll be getting some CuNi lines as they looked so easy to work with.
CuNi lines are the way to go!!
Looking good boys.
Won’t running the front brake lines like that bias the front left wheel?
That brake line material is very forgiving but doesn't result in the same quality of installation that "bent" lines offer. Agreed and understood that "bending" the lines takes much more "skill" and time. Other than learning how the bender works, the most important aspect is how to determine "accurate" measurements. It's tough and tedious but the result is very "precise" looking if that's important to you. If all you care about is getting the fluid from A to B, it's not worth the bother. In Matt's words, if you're trying to replicate "perfectly shitty", not so precise lines are "kool"!! 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
That looks like a very nice kit!! BTW, the "corvette" style (look pretty much the same) master cylinders come with a wide variety of bore sizes and some have ports on both sides. I know they make them for disc/drum. Not so sure about drum/drum??
Happen to have a part number on the master ?…thanks
Well we ain't got no " hook up" around here
I'm surprised you kept the Lockheed style brakes on the front and didn't change it to a bendix style(F1 Ford).
All that work and you're keeping the old shoes?
They had tons of meat and were like new. Scuffed the glazing off and they’re fine to use. 👍
Might be wrong, but the rear brakes should feed from the rear reservoir...since the master cylinder is on backwards it should feed from the reservoir closest the mount...your feeding from the front reservoir
Bagus banget ini mah
When do you need to use residual valves?
Does it matter if the back brakes are ran off from the front of the master cylinder?
Congratulations on using better music this time... yes people notice this stuff.
What is the part number on master cylinder?
Please, can you inform me the suppliers for 1938-48 Ford A Model Perch Hairpin Radius with Leaf Springs Front Front Support and Rod Batwing Set? Thanks
COULD YOU PLEASE LEAVE WHERE YOU BROUGHT YOUR EYE PROTECTION, ( @ 8:41). AND ALL THE THE OTHER PROTECTION IN THE LINKS BELOW?
I wear vintage safety glasses with the side shields 99% of the time.
You've done this before; haven't you? lol
Drum Brakes. More specifically Non- Self-Energized drum brakes. I believe the person who did the last brake job made a mistake. I noticed that the front wheel cylinders had the large diameter side to the front. This is incorrect and will eat up the front lining. As non-self-energizing brakes do not have a shorter shoe lining to the front they compensate by having a smaller wheel cylinder diameter exerting less force. I believe this is why you installed the new wheel cylinders backwards as well. The right wheel cylinder should be on the left with the small diameter to the front. Later Ford drum brakes are Self-Energizing and have a short shoe lining forward. This common mistake is easy to make if you don't do a lot of odd drum brakes. Nice drum puller... I have one too.
What year's of master
When ever I replaced brake lines I used 5/16 rubber line to put the brake line in so the line couldn't rub on any part of the frame from vibrations ?
me too
I would be uncomfortable on the rear brake line routing . To me your to close to the scrub line. Inside the frame rail would have been choose.
Ford did it that way on millions of cars and they deemed it fine.. I'll trust their engineers..
Why would your parts store laugh at you when you ask for amc parts?????
Residual valves should be in the master already.
Actually master cylinders for drum brakes don't use residual pressure valves because the self adjusters are supposed to take up the space lost when the shoes wear. In disc brakes there is some pressure held in the lines because the caliper seals deflect a bit before the piston will move and will retract away from the pads enough so the brake pedal gets low. Often residual pressure valves are external for disc brake cylinders either by a valve installed on the front brake half of the cyl or in the perportioning valve.
Here you go:
www.freeasestudyguides.com/residual-check-valve.html
Matt, that is exactly the guestion I had. Thanks for putting that out there.
WHEN YOU MADE THE NOTCH FOR THE MASTER CYLINDER, YOU FORGOT TO COAT THE NOTCH....LEAVING THE METAL ON THE FRAME EXPOSED!!
It got coated don’t worry. 👍
@@IronTrapGarage WHEEEW!! I KNEW YOU WOULD!
I LOVE WATCHING YOUR VIDS!! GREAT JOB!
Thanks so much for watching and definitely appreciate you keeping us on our toes! -Matt/ITG
@@IronTrapGarage KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK MATT!! I CAN'T WAIT FOR THE MERC!!
dont get it wet either
flaring, bending and placing new brake lines is like dealing with a beautiful lady. gotta go slow and easy, talking to it with terms of endearment to get it where you want to go. one sharp misguided bend, brake lines like women will ruin your efforts.
That piece of junk is not worth the bother
You know what they say about assumptions..