Basic Beginner Machinist Tool Kit
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- Опубликовано: 13 сен 2024
- We discuss what I consider to be a good starting toolkit for working in your home shop. Including measuring tools and lathe tools.
Machinist Measuring Tools Primer Part 1: Scales and Calipers • Machinist Measuring To...
Machinist Measuring Tools Primer Part 2: Micrometers • Machinist Measuring To...
Very well organized and put together. Was able to take notes and, of course, I can always re-watch. Thanks for sharing with an old dog who is attempting to learn a new skill. It is exciting. My Dad and Grandfather were both Tool & Die makers so, in my golden years, I am carrying on a family tradition.
awesome!
Well done. I wish this video had been out a few years ago when I bought my first lathe. Thanks for taking the time.
I have been meaning to get hold of you. Just to say a massive thank you for spending your time and effort making these vids for us. Very cool vids. Especially because i got a SBL 9 a while back, but not just that. So, before i get sidetracked again, i'll quickly get it out in the comments section. As appropriate as anywhere i think because once again this is a vid reaching out to help others. Thank you good sir.
Just to comment on the harbor freight digital calipers. I was in the store testing it and I knew already that I was taking it apart when I got home. Shocking how much grit was under the slide! I sprayed it out with contact cleaner and wiped it down and what a difference it made. The tape measure is wrong but the DRO works fine, so take some time with it in the beginning and it's worth it. Thanks for the videos and see ya next time
Good, vid!
I take exception to a Vernier caliper. They are the most reliable ones and you can get a used one real cheap. Noi dials to slip and need zeroing or batteries to go dead. My only complaint is they are hard for us old guys to read. I have one that I bought 35+ years ago and still works as new.
Telescoping gauges are also on the top of my list. When you use different tools for inside and outside measurements like boring a hole for a shaft, errors can occur. The telescoping gauges let you use the same tool for both, thus eliminating variance between tools. I had a caliper that the inside and outside jaws were 0.004" off.
Excellent class.
I'm in Machinist school in California.
and this is spot on.....
Thanks ...ur on the money...
I just found your channel, and I find your content perfect for my level of learning lathe and mill machining. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Really well done video. 100% on buying the best you can afford. In the long run they last. You only cry once when buying them. I might have added a set of thread pitch gauges to the list. Or were they mentioned and I somehow missed it. Maybe a small light weight and soft faced hammer as well. Sometimes needed while correcting alignment on lots of items around a lathe. Personally I think a DTI is as important as a standard indicator. Very helpful for running checks on a lathe you just bought or finding out why it won't do what it should. Needs vary with the person and projects, but a pair of 123 blocks gives you a multi use tool. Can even be used as a way to check those mikes and calipers once in awhile. And there usually a pretty accurate squares. Oh yeah a scribe, chip brush, center head for finding the middle of a shaft diameter, and honing stone for tool bits.
Easy but costly way to beat that digital caliper battery problem. Mitutoyo makes the nicest pair of solar powered ones I've had my hands on. And even without it Mitutoyo are well known for having the best battery life out of almost any other brand that I know of.3- 5 years average for there mikes etc. SR battery's not the LR makes a huge difference for battery life..
Yes the thread pitch gauge was in there at the end. Thanks fr the tip on the solar calipers
This was a good video. As some what of a beginner myself, I found as my projects became more complex I needed more and better tools and purchased as you said the best I could afford and of course I have a wish list. On the top of the list is that quick change tool post. Thanks again for your videos, always learn something from them.
I would add that you need some kind of air supply small air compressor at least. I would also include a shopvac as an absolute necessity. Sure you can sweep up everything in brush off everything and you'll spend your whole life time doing that. A Shop-Vac is good for quickly hiding the dishes if you know what I mean.
The supply of different grit sandpaper at least it's cheap double sided Whetstone as well.
Good video. Good explanation and description. Keep up the good work. I'm a beginner and this video will help me to figuring out which tools I need first.
Loved your Norm Abram and Roy Underhill comparison. Norm didn't just have a router, for example, it seemed like he had one for each of his bits! Same with all his other tools. And a metric boatload of clamps. :)
Sometimes you just don't want to do it yourself.
Loved the Norm and Roy analogy! Good info. Thanks.
That was an excellent video. You have a very good, clear way of explaining things. Thanks for the great tips.
Agree with you that vernier tools are a bit annoying to use, but if you keep an eye out you can often find them in the larger sizes for a reasonable price. Most I've seen are in good condition because they don't get used very often... but really handy when you do need them. The larger vernier tools usually have larger scales that are much easier to read than say on a 6 inch caliper.
Yes, do get the best you can afford.. but as you say you can trade up. I end up using the cheap tools (electronic calipers) all the time and the good stuff ends up spending most of the time in the tool box. The cheap calipers aren't too bad if you make sure the jaws close correctly when you buy them and you take the time to stone all the sharp edges down.
From Grizzly, I've gotten mics (1,2,3" set), Jacobs chuck & taper, thread gauge, fishtail set and pre-ground HS tool bit (55 & 60 deg). All have proved reliable, as long as you don't buy the absolute cheapest they have to offer. Go at least one level up from the bottom. I did get one bottom row 1" mic ( I think it was made by Sawyer) that, when calibrated at zero, was out by .001 when checked against a 1" standard. So that one is my general purpose carry in the pickup mic. If it gets lost or stolen, I'm not losing much.
Chicago brand snap gauges do Ok, they are not as smooth as some others might be, but once you make your measure, they will hold it until you release it. The 2" dial indicator is cheaply made, but no complaints about how it measures.
General small (3") digital calipers... is just that... generally somewhat crappy. Good for close guesses or fractional measurements.
That's my "bought new" list, and the finding I've had. Your results may vary...
I have no compalaints about the 2" indicator. For $20 you cant beat that with a stick especially since I use it for a carriage indicator so it gets all kinds of junk on it. You can definately tel;l the quality difference though.
12 inch dial height gauge and a combination square set with square head center head and protractor and a good carbon tipped scribe.
Greg,
Thanks for the great video! I've learned, from watching machining videos by yourself and others, which tools are important. This is a nice refresher for those that have a lathe or just starting out. I have a small collection of basic tools. The lathe and a place to put it are next.
Have a good one!
Dave
Really a must for the beginners, very helpfull, Thanks
great work again! subbed long ago due to vids like this. Thanks Hal
I know you said I did not have to buy it all but I a a gluten for punishment, I just spent a little over 3k on Amazon getting it all and the top brands you recommended. I am sure I will be happy with my purchases.
Great vid Greg, thanks! I have a question, at 18:40 you show an attachment for a dial indicator to use as a test indicator. Is the a name for this or perhaps you have a part number? My son and I just bought a used 12x40 lathe and are trying to tool up for it and keeping cost down will help so not having to buy a test indicator right away might help. Thanks again for the vid. Never mind, I found that it's the same as a 670A or 670B Starrett.
Good stuff for us aspiring to get into this
most people have two really great days with their mini lathe the day they buy it and the day they sell it , seriously this is something that you're not going to use that much and for what they cost buy something you really enjoy
Long time no see
good to see you back again
Colin Samms m
What's wrong with vernier callipers? They don't run out of batteries.
I had to -1 this one just bcs a vernier is a solid machinist's tool, tho a bit old school; your pappy and grand pappy only had these and mics to do precise work for decades. and also that he didn't explain why not to use them. I guess it is just preference. cheap digital calipers lose accuracy as the battery wears out but on the plus side, you can flip between inch, mm and fractions fast
Rolingmetal m
In my 3D design classes (Mechanical Engineer) I was given steel calipers and objects to replicate in Solidworks. After that I tried my hardest to find a set for myself but all I would find are gauge and digital calipers. I don't want that because I've worked on too many cars to know fancy bells and whistles are conveniences that break. I finally found a nice multi-tool set but my point is: it's hard to find a nice steel vernier calliper set for some reason. They're wonderful tools.
Rolingmetal showing your age group....have a old pair of mauser calipers...dead nut and yes english and metric
13:30 also the ability to re-zero the caliper onto any measurement taken is very handy, eg for measuring the distance between two holes of equal size
Good information and detailed. Just getting into to machining and getting ready to purchase a Grizzly G4003G lathe. I know its not a SouthBend but you have to roll with what you can afford. Keep the videos coming !!!!
After 30 plus year as an EE , and 30 years in the machinist shop as a hobby, sometimes as part of the job, I agree...
it can't not be said loud enough, especially in this day and age of cheap Chineseum tools.... buy the best you can afford.
Personally, I suggest going second hand, if you can't afford the new Facom screwdriver or the new Starrett micrometer.
'Real' secondhand tools are usually cheaper than the Horror-Fright version, and will still give you a better result.
Some Chinese stuff is ok.... they too are getting better at making this stuff. As far as machinery goes, try to get the machines made with Taiwanese castings rather than mainland China ones (the Taiwanese have been casting iron, in massive quantities for half a century by now, and they really know what they are doing)
As far as affordable lathe chucks go, HBM isn't a bad choice. It isn't a European or US made brand..but they are ok.
Sometimes you get a real surprise though. I once bought a set of Allan keys (Inbus keys) in a cheap supermarket, because I needed a set, and my one was elsewhere at that time.
This was 15 years ago.... best set of Allan keys I ever had !
They are better than my expensive Facom keys!
Beware of German sounding brand-names these days.... if you have never heard of a particular 'German' brand, there is a very good chance the tool is made by a chap called Li-Ping in a basement in Quagon-Ding-Dong !
One can save some money by starting out with Chinese dial indicators, they will be gritty and cheesy and they won't last 20 years... but they will give you a decent measurement,until a good deal on a Mahr or Starrett or similar presents itself.
Stay away from Chinese stuff that has batteries though ! (micrometers, calipers...) those eat batteries like nobodies business!
Toodles!!
Paddy
Thanks for the important and valuable information.
Great video. I got a little carried away when buying tools for my lathe. I had to laugh when you said, stay away from the vernier calipers. I just had to have one of those, and have yet to use it. I spent several hours learning how to use it, but never have used it . Like you say, nice to look at , looks great in the tool box but, don't buy one. I bought a few digital calipers, but when you need it most the batteries are dead. EBay loves me, because I have bought more tools than I will ever use , but hey never can tell. I followed your advice years ago and bought the quick change tool post and made a locking post on top, another of your great videos. You sure have come a long ways with your videos. I look forward to viewing them and have learned a lot from them. You do great work and I appreciate your sharing them with us. ...Ken Marina CA .
Ha! Thanks! Yeah I got mine because I wanted a large pair if I ever needed them and they are the nice Starrett Master calipers. I haven't had to use them yet though
In trade school they made us use vernier calipers, not just to learn how to use them, we used them for 2 years even though they had dozens of brand new dial and digital calipers locked away "for the engineering students".
Man, you have got patients, I would have lost it after like the 3rd ring. :-)
40 years of machine work, totally disagree on the tool holder, NO on the wedge style,
yes on the piston style, the wedge gears will strip out.
yeah just as soon as some people get a lathe they automatically are a machinist ! I agree with you on the tool holder as well, I have been doing machine work for only 20 something years but long enough to know about the wedge gears stripping ! Oh and the 3 jaw chuck that ive had for 10 or so years only is a half thou out !
Awesome primer!! I have to say, I started with a Brown & Sharpe threading "fishtail" gauge, lost it, and replaced it with one of the super cheap import gauges (the $2ish Shars deal) which are, in my opinion, complete crap! Not accurate and not as much useful info on the gauge! Just got a replacement Mitutoyo fishtail last month and couldn't be happier. $10 vs $2 is a much bigger deal than it might seem!
I got one too. Garbage. no double depth of thread and it's just a rough stamped piece of metal with rounded edges. The scale on mine was even stamped off center. I do have to say though Shars' Acme thread gauge is well worth the money. It's in the teens while the cheapest name brand is in the high 30s to low 40s. Much better quality. Granted this was also 5 years ago.
@Halligan142 ---What about tools holders for the lathe. What are some of the more common sizes for the bits used to bore, part, etc? Is there a book or something that gives a good reference for all this?
Thank you. I would like to learn more. Including self study books that will help me.
A good start! Clear presentation..:)
Hi Greg. I'm a new subscriber and a newbie to the lathe. I'm a welder by trade but have a passion for the lathe. I also have a 9" South Ben lathe cabinet style with motor down below in cabinet. One question is where can I purchase a tool post like the one in your video. I'm having a hard time finding one. Next question is in one of your videos you show a stack of gears that go with your South Ben I have none of those and not sure how to use them either. But if one wanted to get them can they be bought new or is this a search for used ones ? Keep up the good videos they help a lot.
The toolpost I have is an AXA style wedge from Phase II. I bought it when Enco was still around, but they're pretty common. I would reccomend them rather than the no name Chinese imports, although they are more expensive. The gears are for screw cutting if you do not have a gearbox. They are pretty plentiful on ebay.
Thanks for the good info! I was curious what your thoughts were on having a few different sized try squares?
Try squares aren't as useful as a combination square. For me the 6" one is one I use the most. I also Like the "engineer" style better also called a double edge square.
Ah nice, I'll have to see if I can get my hands on a few of those. Thanks for the reply
Very good info. Thanks
Great video. I have a SB 10k, I am wanting to put a live center morse taper in the quill. A #2mt does not fit. The diameter in the quill is about .670 which tapers back into the quill . The #2mt large end is about .700 diameter. Any ideas what I can do to install a live center into my quill? And do you know what taper , if any, is the head stock. Thank you...
great video. very informative and have been following your "Beginner" vids. Do you have a video that has the basic tool bits for a beginner hobbyist? I bought a carbide tooling set from Little Machine Shop, and really have no idea what or how they are used. For all I know I could be using a facing tool to take material off or just using the wrong bit for the purpose.
Starting off you're better off at least starting with learning to grind your own HSS. This gets you the feel for angles and how they act on the tool/cut. The different angles of the insert in the holder allow you to get into different places. Basically use the tool that when presented to the work will allow you to cut the way you want.
Thanks Halligan142 I have tried my hand at grinding. you'd laugh, but i havent touched a lathe since High School shop, which is quite some time ago. Keep up the vids.
Great video, thanks!
Thumbs up and subbed!
Great video! I, like others went out and bought things that I really didn't need when I got my lathe but will come in handy later once my experience level is increased. One question though, what is the device officially called that turns a dial indicator into a test indicator? I have looked but have been unable to locate one.
ebay search starrett 670 a(short) or b(long) 196f for back plunge indicator
Why are you Americans scared of the vernier?
Before digitals thats all we had on the other side of the pond. Dial calipers are virtually unheard of in Europe and the UK. And a vernier with a fine adjust is more accurate than a push with a thumb wheel dial.
Disagree about the vernier calipers. I use the vernier type in preference to the digital ones. A few times working in sub 0°C conditions I've had digital calipers give really wonky readings. The manual ones don't do that. Can't speak for dial ones, never used them.
And once trust in a measuring tool is gone...
if you begin never buy a 4 jaw chuck, it takes too long to adjust and for most operations so start with the 3 jaw and later on buy the 4 jaw
do you want good or fast if you cant take the time to dial in a 4 jaw you need to take up knitting
thats a load of bullshit, for most operations you do not need a 4 jaw at all, thats why lathes comes standard with a 3 jaw chuck.
what if you want to turn a square part
or better than .003 runout?
bullshit is calling a taig a lathe
great video and very helpful just one thing the links to the different videos on reading the mics and calipers did not come up
Yeah that's because I have to add clickable links after the video goes live. I'll post them for you.
Scales and Calipers- ruclips.net/video/ogxwH3u-oW4/видео.html
Micrometers- ruclips.net/video/aCD8angxr-Q/видео.html
Thank you
Definitely subbing.
Thanks for sharing this. Now I have a lathe and measures but nobody talks cutting tools or oils of the trade on RUclips. Are those below us getting tips like getting all same fit tools or is it a trade secret?
For cutting tools you should be starting with High Speed Steel. Size of your lathe will dictate the size of the HSS blank. For my 9" I find 1/4" and 5/16" to be adequate with the occasional 3/8" thrown in for special things. A standard blank will cost you about $3-5 new. For cutting oils a good.place to start is WD-40 for aluminum and good ole dark cutting oil for steel. There are plenty of brands to get. You can even go to your big box stores and get black iron thread cutting oil from the plumbing section. They work well but are a bit smokey. From there you can go into the more exotic (read expensive) cutting oils but for 90% of your work those will get you by.
@@Halligan142 Thank you so much! I just subbed but I can't get notifications because of "safe for children" tag on your channel. RUclips eh.
@@Adrian_Mason
Weird my entire Chanel is marked as not kids content. I'll look into it.
@@Halligan142 fixed it. Glitch was on my end. I unsubscribed and resubbed then the bell icon worked . Sorry I didn't realize that I was getting to comment and get notified of your response. That should have made realize that something weird was up. All sorted now and thanks again for your tips!
greg great tip.------bob
What is the attachment that you showed for turning the dial indicator into a test indicator? What is the attachment called or where can I find one? Thanks.
check out the comment above
I know this is a 7 year old video, buy in college in the late 80s we were taught to get Vernier Calipers and avoid Dial Calipers, so I am wondering why you feel the opposite...
While verniers have less moving parts and tend to be more accurate, dial calipers are much easier to correctly read and makes for fewer mistakes. If you need accuracy then reach for the micrometer.
@@Halligan142 thanks!
@@Halligan142 I don't know about easier to read, but then again I bought my Mitutoyo Vernier Calipers back in the late 70s, early 80s, and they have always been my go-to... what we were taught in College may have been a reflection of the general quality of dials at the time, or maybe even just the teacher (who had just retired as a millwright, after putting in 25 years at the Royal Canadian Mint) having had a predisposition against dials, who knows... Anyway, thanks for answering.
How to help me?..I'm same vlog.
Do I see a Wimshurst machine in the background?
Yes You do
Have you made a video of it? I would love to see it in operation.
Lonnie
At 14:25.. why?
A centre drill is pretty basic.
4:20 you didn't answer the phone. why didn't you answer the phone?
If a guy has taken the step to buy a lathe, don't you think he had most of the tools before hand?
Quite the opposite actually. Especially if it's your first lathe and you're not a machinist by trade.
If a _person_ has a lathe, that definitely doesn't mean they will already have the tools they need, not least because most of the time in this video goes to tools that are used specifically in the lathe.
I never thought I'd be able to have a metal lathe, found a band saw on Craigslist and casually asked if they were selling anything else. Over the phone he said he had a metal lathe and the price was so low that I knew if it were junk I could sell a few parts off of it to cover the cost. Sight unseen I said I'd take it. Well it was a really nice South Bend 9B. They gave me some tooling, but I need almost everything mentioned in the video (except the lantern too post and the drill chuck). It is missing the thread dial though... dang!
Yeah thread dials were an option. Mine was a Model B before I added the quick change gear box. Mine also had no thread dial. I got it off E-bay.
Yup. My first lathe came with a lantern toolpost, a 3-jaw, a live center, and a "See ya later!"
I am not sure you get the hole idea of tools, of cause you have to rush out and buy all of them right away and get ever one of the companion tools that go with them and two lots of every thing els you pass in the toy shop and when your wife tells you no your can’t have that tool you start helping around the house more do the washing add red to wights and do the dishes with the dog every bit licked clean until she says ok get the tool and go out to the shed and leave the house work just remember the man that dies with the most tools wins and the answer is always yes of cause I need that tool I can’t finish the job without it
A single "hairdo and dye" of my wife costs more than anyone of those basic tools. So, I console myself with that thought!
I'm appalled by the amount of imprecision you americans tolerate. THOUSANDS of an inch runout expected with a new chuck? That's at least 0.025 millimeters (for one thousands runout) - pathetic. Should have less than 0.01 after years of use.
Great vid but Starrett produce shithouse tooling now, old items are the bomb though.
The only new thing I've tried out that I was really diappointed with was the dial calipers. I don't use digital so can't comment on those. All my mics are older. My newer starett stuff is things like parallels and set up tooling.
Halligan142 I have a 16 year old.set of Starrett digital calipers and I love them..I'm no brand nazi :) I also have a set of INSIZE brand and also love them
I agree with yo buy the best you can afford and also to suit your needs.
For work I have some really high quality tools ...only as they last but I also have the odd Chinesium bit as they work fantastically :) the Ryobi disc and belt sander is also great by the way.
Great vids by the way
BRIT engineer live in Aus :)
Loved the Norm and Roy analogy! Good info. Thanks.