Basic Hand Scraping - A 12" Cast Iron Straightedge
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- Опубликовано: 23 июн 2020
- Having been asked to 'have a look' at a UK manufactured New Cast Iron Straight Edge, I thought, I would try and put a video together of the basics of hand scraping as I do it. I have tried to include some helpful tips Ive picked up, typcal problems you can run into and how to get out of them.
I have split the footage into 2 parts. This is part 1.
The Straight Edge is to be a prize in a competition and entry details are at the end of the videos
Should you wish to purchase a machined casting ready to scrape, contact details for the Straight Edges and further information can be found at hrlambandson.co.uk . I will paste a link in the comments below. Clive Lamb is also an active member on Instagram @blacksheepcrossmember
Part 2 is here - • Basic Handscraping - A...
This is probably the best tutorial for beginners to scraping that I've seen on RUclips. Lots of excellent tips for those of us just starting out!
that is very kind of you - I appreciate it.
I thoroughly agree with this comment, I have learned a great deal from watching Mat on this straight edge and do his Holbrook lathe rebuild with the 40 hours of scraping the blue off of the bed. I answered the questions lol. Bit late though it's 2021 now!
@@samrodian919 So have I! Hard to believe that it only took 40 hours to scrape in the Holbrook.
By far the best scrapping video on RUclips. I’m in middle of a reciprocating saw conversion to help me power scrape. I’ll post on my channel soon. This helps a lot. Thanks for taking time to make the video.
My pleasure, thank you for watching and commenting.
Watching this, for I believe the 3rd time, there's just so much to soak up in these videos!
Hi Rick - good to hear. Am just uploading another vid' as I type - a bit of scraping in there as I seat the lathe tool post into alignment. Roughing v's finish scraping. You may find that a bit of use as well. All the best and thanks for commenting. mat
I wish I understood materials science as much as he does. But I KNOW I never will. Thank goodness such expertise still exists. I PRAY that it forever will…
That's the best video on scraping I've seen yet. You adressed almost all questions I had. Thanks for passing on your knowledge.
Glad it was helpful!
And the apprentice becomes teacher. Wonderful work and well done video! Thank you so much for sharing your workmanship with the community!
I think we should all try and pass on what we learn - the learning should be optional and in my experience is. Thanks for watching Russ and sticking with the channel. All the best Mat
Much appreciated. Thank you for the knowledge you've developed and decided to share!
Glad you enjoyed the content - I will upload part 2 this evening and set it live later in the week.
many thanks Matt!
Great information here - thanks for taking the time to share your scraping knowledge with this level of detail. Really looking forward to part 2.
thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment. I shall try and upload part 2 tonight. Get it live later this week
This is a fantastic explanation of the scraping process.
Thank you, glad it comes accross well. Please stop by for the second part later this week.
Great instruction Matt, nice to see you on RUclips as well as Instagram
Its funny, Ive been on RUclips for quite a few years, instagram I think less than a year. Instagram is far easier to buid a following but you get sucked in looking at other folks work as I have IG on my smart phone - RUclips I mainly view on my PC as the screen is better for watching longer. Its thanks to guys like steve summers that encouraged me to use IG. All the best Mat
Your a great teacher! Great video, very detailed and clear to understand. Thanks for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated.
That is very kind of you. Thank you. Please enjoy some of the other scraping videos on my channel - there are quite a few. all the best Mat
Awsome work thank you
Very informative! Steve S, gave me the lead to your channel, great advice as usual.
Welcome aboard! I hope you enjoy my content - mostly machine tool rebuilding for my own workshop. Hope to see you commenting on future episodes. All the best Mat
this video makes a a lot of sense Matt. very nicely done.
Thank you Emma.
The straight edge is beautiful workmanship.
Thank you, EM.
Hi Ed, there are a good few SE scraping videos I made just before starting to scrape the lathe. I needed a 6’ reference face and only have an 18 x 24” granite. So I worked up some old SE, 24”, 36, 48” , 54” to 72” . It was quite educational for me and good practice. Enjoy the channel content. All the best Mat
Excellent, informative & concise 👍👍🏴😃
Not so sure it was concise .. I had to cut quite a lot of video out to get it down to 2 hrs, then speed up the scraping elements ;-) All the best Mat
Blue, Holbrook 4, under 40hrs 👍🏴
More than well done Mat and this is sure to be of real help to me in the future. I think sometimes when a person still has fairly fresh memories of all there early mistakes they can explain and teach things in better detail than someone else with possibly decades of experience.
Appreciate the comment. Ive gotten frustrated that many of the 'scraping' videos on RUclips fail to address some of the key lessons needed when you start out. I hope these two will at least go someway to filling the gap. All the best Mat
Good video.
Max Grant sent me over.
Thanks for sharing.
From the USA here.
Take care, Ed.
Congrats for your very clear explanation of what scraping is all about. I haven't had any master in scraping skill but I have seen many videos and i have come to your exact conclusions. I have already scraped a flat surface plate about the size of your surface plate and it seems ok....I want to do more in the future...thanks
Once you get the basics, the more you do the easier it becomes. Consistency is key in my view. Even getting it wrong repeatedly allows you to make small improvement until it starts to go the right way. Thanks for watching and commenting. All the best Mat
Bang on, thank you brother
Glad you enjoyed
glad l found this channel, thanks mister
Glad you enjoy it!
Subscribed, as a wood worker, learning to hand scrape just for flatness of hand planes!
Thats how it starts ...... :-)
Therapeutic watching you hand scrape. I definitely would like to try and need to decide what would be best to experiment with 🤔 Thank you for such a well produced video 👏👏👍😀
many thanks for watching and your kind words. All the best for 2023.
That was a really great video Mathew
I must admit I normally avoid such long videos, this was good
It is a choice I made to make the vids where ever possible 30-40 minutes long so as to allow for my thoughts to be articulated - I can't really show folks 'machining' I have very limited skills in the area - however, the problems faced and method of thinking it through surely translate to most workshops - just not so easily in 20 minutes or less. Average chap has an ettention span of 20 minutes at best. Obviously you fall above the line :-) I am slowly getting to grips with the editing software, so hopefully I can start making a better produced feature. Ive a long way to go before I get your level or production. thoroughly enjoyed your rotabroach vids. All the best. Mat
@@lookcreations Yeah I'm not good at explaining things so much, so it just gets cut down to general narration usually.
I'm trying to get more detailed, but I swear my IQ halves once the camera starts lol
Nice!
Im not one to give out compliments but your scraping is nice enough for me to try and win it back👍🏼
Good luck! Clive.
1 -Blue
2- Holbrook
3- 40 hours
Mat, you rebuild of this lathe has been super informative for me with my Holbrook. I appreciate the effort put into these videos. It's a ton of work to restore a lathe. It's a factor of 3 at least, trying to document it well for RUclips. Thanks for undertaking it.
Thanks for stopping by and commenting - I do appreciate the feedback. Mat
Thank you very much.
You are welcome!
I use the same style scraper you do but I prefer a bit more radius. Nice tutorial!
Hi Brian - I was watching your last Monstare Monarch update last night - man thats some flood coolent flow ! keep at it my friend. All the best Mat
Nice video. I think before you get too far finished with your large flat surface you should scrape on the bevel. As scraping on the bevel will most likely change the bottom surface slightly. Also ringing the part with a soft blow hammer to relieve stresses is a good idea. Just some techniques I picked up in a Richard King scraping class. Thanks for making the video.
Hi Steve, that is exactly where we start off in part 2 ! The SE casting was well heat treated before machining and ive had it hung for 4 weeks - no noticeable movement checked with a 0.001" feeler on the surface plate. It is only 12" so I wouldnt expect much movement. Still as you say, rough it in then finish both faces - thats the correct way.
Blue, Holbrook scraped the ways in under 40hours! Cheers, Matthew
Someone is paying attention ;-) Are you going to have a punt for the Straight Edge $5 donation and you get your name in the hat - so far the odds are in your favour 1:20 for a $180 prize and you got the answers correct Matthew.
@@lookcreations send me your paypal email to mattinker@yahoo.com
@@MatthewTinker-au-pont-blanc Done :-)
Excelente!!
All the best Mat
SENT by Steve Summers, Good Videos!
Thanks for coming
Scraping is the future
Its certainly in my future until I at least get my lathe back together ;-) Thanks for stopping by and commenting. All the best Mat
I am enjoying your channel especially the rebuilds. I come to you on the recommendation of Steve Summers. How is your forge progressing?
Hi David - slight hickup on the forge - it is on hold as I have neighbours either side which are not in the best of health and consider my beating the hell out of a hot steel on an anvil might not help with relations. I shall retrun to it when I have the lathe up and running andcan sort out my fly press forge. I have plans for tooling I want to make. thanks for watching and commenting. All the best Mat
1, Blue 2, Holbrook 3, under 40 hours. Cant wait to see the outcome.
good stuff Chris Smith, pop over to my channel home page and follow th elinks to make a channel donation - in return for every $5 donated your name pops in the hat for the prize draw. $20 gets you five tickets ! Good luck. mat
Not much of a commenter but I always enjoy your videos. I was very sorry to hear about Chris. Follow you on Instagram as well. Thank you for taking the time to show us what you're up to. Can't wait to see the lathe make some chips! Throwing my name into the hat:
1- Blue
2- the mighty Holbrook
3- just under a work week if I recall correctly (40 hrs)
Keep up the fantastic work!
Hi Jerry, thanks for the kind words - take a couple of minutes and pop over to make a channel donation of $5 to help toward the shipping costs of the SE and get your name in the hat. $20 gets you 5 tickets. Back on thelathe rebuild this week. All the best Mat
@@lookcreations Hi Matt, sent $20 via the link on your about page yesterday. Hope it wasn't lost to the internets! PayPal I believe it was.
Hi Jerry, all received with thanks, got the notification this morning after replying 👍 Best of luck
Mat
@@lookcreations Good to hear! And good excuse to contribute regardless of potential prizes, wish I could do more. Thanks Mat
Excellent video - lighting and photographing a shiny scraped surface must be hell.
I would recommend (if you can) getting a rigid clamp instead of the big 'F' clamp you're using to fix the straight edge in place. Since 'C' or 'G' clamps hold their setting when released, it's just a half turn between secure and loose, which is nice. For this purpose, even a light, cheap clamp would serve very well, no need for Paramo or Record.
Sorry to hear of Chris' passing.
It was just a bit too big a span for my g clamps. The F clamp came to hand 👍
@@lookcreations So I guess you couldn't find a thinner packing block for the rear packing either?
That's a Bugger. I LOVE 'F' clamps for one off stuff (like woodworking glue ups), but they're less good for repeat work.
Standard law, the packing block you want resides inside the one that’s too big and the saw is covered in what you need the block for .... or in my case both saws 🙄 . I end up lighting the stove with any bit of dry kindling I can get my hands on ..... it’s a tough world for handy bits of wood in my shop 👍
Steve Summers sent me!
Thanks for dropping by, I hope you enjoy the content. Mat
I use skivax gork to bueing or vileda dish clothes
Sent here by Steve Summers! And enjoying the content, keep up the good work. Where did that casting come from? Very nice design, no doubt very rigid.
Good to see you viewing sir. Ive been subscribed to your channel quite some time - in fact I learned how to cut T Nuts with a shaper from your vid' when I first started down the shaper road ! The casting was designed by a friend based in the south of the UK - frustrated that he couldnt find a UK cast Straight Edge for his work. So He made patterns, travelled around various founderies until he found one that would do the job right and he now makes a range of SE's. There is a link in the video details for Lamb&Son he has a facebook page and website in the making. Clive is a 3rd generation machine rebuilder and knows his trade well. Me im just playing at it :-) All the best mat
What would be great if you made a vid on how to make that half moon pattern.
I’ve been trying and just can seem to come up with the technique.
Hi Andy, the best video I have seen is one done by Robin Renzetti on how he produces the moore pattern. If you look back through my videos there is a one or two short ones showing my mentor Chris scraping the bedding curls as a demonstration - sadly I never got chance to film his finishing curls where he would get the curl to around 1/4" end to end and side to side. When I get back to my Holbrook - I will see if I can put togther a short video on what I learned from Chris. Thanks for watching and commenting. All the best Mat
@@lookcreations I’ve looked back through your older vids and found the one with Chris. Also seen Robin’s.
I tried for a few minutes today, scraping in my straight edge, but kept gouging it. So I went back push style, I just wanted to get that that knee scraped in, that project’s been dragging on so long.
When I get some time, I’m going try practicing your half moon style.
Thanks for the vids, they’re great.
Oh - I have made the "going fine too early" mistake. As you say, you end up trying to gradually lower your perfect plane to the depth of your deepest pit, maintaining its perfection as you go.
WHAT A WASTE OF TIME!
I probably err the other way now, happy to hack away in the early stages, until I have uniform (but crappy) coverage.
I also use a thick film on the plate - this is easier to interpret in the early stages, and reduces in thickness as you go, removed by the successive prints.
If you're really super lucky, the ink film reduces in the correct proportion to the finish of the work.
It is all too easy to think its all looking good only to find tha there is a hollow whcih requires addressing. It frustrates me that such things are never covered in other scraping videos and you know it happens. I try and give a 'warts and all' view of the process. Sure there are other methods and most likely faster and more systematic approaches - that being said, most viewers are more interested in 'how to do it in their shop' rather than going out to make a living at it. Thanks for all your comments. All the best Mat
nice job, just i want to know how to make the perfect standard stone flat, need use the laserinterferometers equipment, yes ?
Do you mean the surface plate ? I’m sorry I don’t understand your question
The surface plate flatness is the calibrated standard. Mine is granite and bought new. You can use a cast iron plate and there are videos on RUclips about how to check flatness. Or if you feel really keen, you could search the three plate method for achieving a flat plane developed by whitworth in the uk in I think early 1800’s based on his observations of the Manchester machine tool builders of the time
Great video. Does anyone know where I can get straight edges here in the UK?
I’ve a couple to sell , get in touch
Nice sharing, keep it up! bro✌😎😁😁😁😷😷😷😷😷😷😷😷😷😷😷
Thank you, I will
Wrap a coffee filter over the cloth, theyre lint free, I use them as lint free wipes
Thats a good idea - cheers Mat
Contact Details for Clive Lamb can be found here - www.hrlambandson.co.uk/ Please open this in a seperate window otherwise RUclips down grades my video as you leave the platform :-(
Clive is on Instagram - @blacksheepcrossmember
If you wish to help the channel and enter the competition there is a link to the patreon account on my home page (its a tiny little dot on the right hand side of the screen - there is also a channel donation button which fires up a payment by card option via PayPal every $5 gets your name in the hat :-)
www.patreon.com/lookcreations
Alternatively, you can send a PayPal donation to support the channel at look.creations@live.co.uk - there is a link on my channel home page on the lower right hand side.
I bought a straight edge casting from Mr Lamb and I can vouch for it's top notch quality. No connection to the seller. I am just a regular paying customer who is very impressed with the quality of the product.
Hi Mat - that paypal link is not working for me. Do you have a paypal-registered email address that people can donate to?
look.creations@live.co.uk I will check the link again. There is a button on my channel home screen - RUclips make the thing real bloody small though.
Good to hear - I did shed a tear when I saw Clive cut up some initial prototype SE which had some porosity in the iron. This is why he only sells the machined versions - so he knows the faces are 100%. - oh and he is a nice chap even if he is from Essex !
@@lookcreations Thanks Mat - I'll take a look for that button (PS: 40 hours, blue layout dye, Holbrook lathe) :-)
Was looking at some strait edges on ebay. bet it's the same bloke. It went just as i thought i should get it.
He has listed them on Ebay in the past I know - you would be better off calling Clive or contacting him direct (details are in the comments), and ask what he currently has available.
It is I . I took them down from eBay as having to adjust for eBay fees made it prohibitive. Please contact directly as matt suggested thanks
I’ve relisted on eBay
im telling richard.
He’s already trying to type a helpful and constructive comment I’m sure of it 😃
@@lookcreations :)
can you suggest alternative paints?
Do you mean paint or ink?
The ink spread on the plate is a U.K. product but there are others like canode, or hispot- if you can find some prussion blue pigment you can make your own.
@@lookcreations I'm not familiar with the jargon in this subject . I meant the same thing as paint or ink. By the way, thank you for your suggestion. Although, I found a ready-made equivalent of your product where I am in the evening.
Thanks.
What is what you call mineral spirit ?
White Spirit in the U.K. it’s a solvent typically used with oil based paints.
When you're scraping like that, how do you know you're not getting lopsided? It can still be a flat surface but slope from one side to the other.
Are you referring to the included angle between base and angled face ? If so, it is not a reference angle, in use the inclined face needs clearance to get close enough to then be lifted into contact for the rub/print.
Hiya, blue, hollbrook, 40 hr
Thanks for your entry William, best of luck. Mat
Swirly layer of layout color with random thickness on your reference plate? First time i've seen something like this. I do wonder how it affects the transfer if it creates false contact area/points.
Actually, it does require some 'reading' if you 'swirl it too thick on a half decent scraped face - as I said, you want to start with a 'good layer' on the surface plate , this layer is evenned out as the scraped face develops and each rub you take and then -re-swirl to re spread the ink. By all means use a roller or other method - Ive tried lots and they all have downsides. As the face develops the film thickness becomes very thin on the surface plate - you can see this as the video progresses.
@@lookcreations I've applied ink with 3 different methods (lint free polyester rag, special sponge, roller) but I always made sure by proper smearing that the layer was more or less constant all over surface... so I don't understand your point.. anyhow i'm always open to new ideas to make life easier and faster but this goes against my intuition right now
@@chronokoks the important point is that "uniform layer" is not a yes/no thing. All layers are uneven, the question is "how uneven?", or (even more important) is it "even enough?".
So (as always again in engineering) you should not waste resource/effort to work beyond required tolerances.
That is spot on. When you start the scrape, ink spread is not that critical. You can see with the first print, then the second. At that stage the surface is within half a thou’ but not flat. So the ink has to be within that thickness. Flatter the surface thinner and less variation
@@chronokoks Ive been trying to think of a way to explain this without a long winded paragraph. In short, the thinner the layer the better except that it provides less protection to the master. So start thicker - an uneven film will work if your work face is uneven and you can read the print. I would take far more time to produce a thin even layer if I were re-facing a straight edge. The same goes for 'dragging your fingers through the film - its not a very good way to check for debris in my view - but others insist its key. Do what works for you.
These straight edges are on eBay under username blacksheepuk2015
Yep - you can get a better price contacting Clive direct. Link in the details below the vid.
Spoiler alert!! 23:45 he draws a phallus 🤣🤣
You sure ?
@@lookcreations ... Yea.. it's complete.. a bent carrot and two tomatoes lol in bold sharpie
Хоть кто то держит правильно прижимную руку,а то распальцована во все стороны😂
why scraping like that,nearly the end of video?im a hand scraper for job,but onmy carrier i never do and never see someone do it
basic hand scraping is to remove where have a high spot for make flat a surface,no remove material like that for nothing
I am not sure I understand your question. ? Mat
@@lookcreations why scraping everywhere and not just on highspot?
If you are asking about the scraping at 41:30 towards the end of the video where I am lowering about 75% of the surface face - I explain why. there is a low area I draw around where contact is limited compared to the rest of the face. So I lower the rest of the face to the same level and then go over the entire face to establish a uniform contact area. If thisisnt what you are asking - I am sorry - please ask again and I will try and answer. All the best Mat
@@lookcreations usually if have a lower zone i scrap where a high spot.when surface start to be flat everywhere,i scrap a bit just where i see a high spot,no all aroud you did.but if this tecnique is ok for no problem,but i think is no a basic hand scraping,just it