My understanding is... you don't move the tool... you move the chain after finishing a single tooth. And the center knob that you said to tighten down just like the larger knobs on either side, is for straightening the tooth to an upright position. As most know, the chain is loose in the bar grove so the chain must be in an upright position in order to get a proper cut. However, I couldn't get the (I'll call it the locking brace adjuster) to lock and add pressure to the tooth being sharpened. AND... even when I locked the chain against the sharpening stone, it didn't seem to cut (sharpen) very well. I put the tool back in the box and did the old fashion way. Its a shame, it seems like a good concept, but it just didn't work very well for me. So, I looked for a video explaining how to do it the right way, assuming I was doing something wrong, but unfortunately this wasn't the video for that.
It will work and it is much cheaper, BUT the Timberland sets the gold standard. Much more robust tighter tolerances and the file is tungston carbide file and not a diamond crust junk.
I ran into the same problem as you have with your small hand-held saw...I have a 14" (35cm) Skil battery operated saw. The sharpening device would not push the 'back' of the 'tooth' forward against the rotating grinding bit. (The tooth was just too short' in height.) I was able to insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver in the space at the back of the tooth to apply pressure against the rotating grinding bit. But was a bit laborious.
I had to stop watching once I saw you remove the jig to reach the next tooth. That defeats the whole purpose of the jig. You set up the jig, sharpen the first tooth, pull the file out then advance the chain by hand to the next tooth, insert the file and sharpen then repeat. Then each tooth is sharpened to the same depth and it’s a lot faster to do. Don’t review a product if you do not know how to use it. On the other hand I guess it shows the quality of the instructions.
You don't move the tool. You move the chain....much quicker and more efficient.
You leave it attached to the bar just pull the chain thru to the next tooth
Be much easier to do every other tooth and then switch the file/crank to the other side instead of moving it for every tooth.
Pretty cool never used one, I've seen some Vevor products on another channel ✔️💯
My understanding is... you don't move the tool... you move the chain after finishing a single tooth. And the center knob that you said to tighten down just like the larger knobs on either side, is for straightening the tooth to an upright position. As most know, the chain is loose in the bar grove so the chain must be in an upright position in order to get a proper cut.
However, I couldn't get the (I'll call it the locking brace adjuster) to lock and add pressure to the tooth being sharpened. AND... even when I locked the chain against the sharpening stone, it didn't seem to cut (sharpen) very well. I put the tool back in the box and did the old fashion way. Its a shame, it seems like a good concept, but it just didn't work very well for me. So, I looked for a video explaining how to do it the right way, assuming I was doing something wrong, but unfortunately this wasn't the video for that.
I'm sorry. I was guessing too.
amzn.to/3P8z8N0
It will work and it is much cheaper, BUT the Timberland sets the gold standard. Much more robust tighter tolerances and the file is tungston carbide file and not a diamond crust junk.
I ran into the same problem as you have with your small hand-held saw...I have a 14" (35cm) Skil battery operated saw. The sharpening device would not push the 'back' of the 'tooth' forward against the rotating grinding bit. (The tooth was just too short' in height.) I was able to insert the tip of a small flat blade screwdriver in the space at the back of the tooth to apply pressure against the rotating grinding bit. But was a bit laborious.
For smaller blades take the Paul/ratchet off & refit the other way round 12:36
Move your chain not the tool
I had to stop watching once I saw you remove the jig to reach the next tooth. That defeats the whole purpose of the jig.
You set up the jig, sharpen the first tooth, pull the file out then advance the chain by hand to the next tooth, insert the file and sharpen then repeat.
Then each tooth is sharpened to the same depth and it’s a lot faster to do.
Don’t review a product if you do not know how to use it. On the other hand I guess it shows the quality of the instructions.
Far too much fiddling about Think I'll be sticking to a file.