What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
Trex decking, square edge borders. Don’t cut off the hidden fasteners on the final course transfer where they are to the square edge use a biscuit cutter and make little cuts on the inside and you can use the hidden fastener for the square edge and the grooves board then you only have to pay screw the outer edge of your square boards.
Pro tip: instead of nipping off the fasteners for the outside (smooth) deck board, use a biscuit joiner to cut a groove on the inside edge of that smooth board. You get the added hold of the clip, thus needing fewer face screws.
Pro tip for the band board on the deck surface, instead of a piece on flat that will hold dirt, moisture and inevitably rot out faster than the rest, put the outside two joists at the right distance that you can block between them for the band board, and have the ends of the boards land on the second joist in. Nowhere for junk and dirt to get caught that way 😎
The "giant T-square" was a nice idea. However, I don't know if I'd ever find straight enough lengths of wood to make one, lol. Some of that stuff at the big box stores are pretty trashy, and the lumber yards aren't much better.
I know it’s an added expense but to G-Tape the top of those joist will add many years of life to it! I even do it to toe kicks for garage cabinets I build for customers because most spray out their garages with water! I. This case you hv moisture and I am sure the customer will spray off his deck!
PRO TIP G,day fellas from Sydney Australia. When flatting joist tops to a string line, I like to cut (3) 3/8" blocks, place one under each end (lifting the line) so no distortion of the line. Use the last block on each joist to just slide under the string line. You can plan accordingly (or lift). 🪵👷
I enjoy comparing the way you guys do things. I live in an area that can get lots of precipitation so we do a couple variations and some the same: 1. Love how you ran the joists wild and cut at the end to fit. Much faster and nothing but full deck board widths. 2. The big square was very clever for this application. 3. We use pucks between the ledger board and the house for water drainage 4. We use joist tape and NEVER scupper drains (drainage holes) because that is where our decks rot out first. Extra joist tape can be used as thin shims too. The joist tape seals around the fasteners to prevent rot. 5. We create slope away from the post base, although the ground hogs may just modify afterwards. 6. We start installing the deck boards from the interior joist and run them wild towards the outside. Then cut with a track saw, and install the border decking. This means inside joints are left factory and the edge against the border is nice and continuous. Love your work. Some good challenges on this deck build!
Great tips by the way. Where I am in CA when it comes to decking and some larger lumber material, square factory ends are like Bigfoot you rarely see one and if you do it’s most likely ugly.
I’ve seen a lot of guys using zip tape on top of the joists. Do you think that helps. Also thanks Jaime for taking time at Swain graduation to talk to me and son. If said that it was the best day of his life! He was star struck!
I made a super rigid railing after a tip from a lumber yard. Make "I-beam" posts ! Screw a 5"x2"(1½) on the inside of the frame. Make short 3"x2" (clearance under the railing) and screw to the 5". Now place the first horizontal 2" all the way around the deck. Next a vertical 3" to continue the I-beam to the top of the post (minus a horizontal standing 2"). Now You can fill in the squares with X's or whatever You prefer. Once that's finished You can screw the outer final piece of 5x2(1½) to the posts or even down to the footing. All joints are hidden. Top of the railing with a flat piece of Your choice (wide enough for drinks or beer juggs?)
When drilling holes for wedge anchors drill as deep as possible even all the way through the concrete because if you want to get rid of the wedge bolt in the future because of changes of f ups just pound the wedge into the hole , ex : 4 inch wedge drill at least 8 inch suck the dust out with shop vac if you screw up take the nut and washer off and pound the bolt down into the concrete 😊
Our company uses the Tropics from Lowe’s just like that. I think it’s somehow comforting to see your crew build a deck just like we do here in Arizona. Great job, fellas!
deck looks great i would just do one thing. as a deck builder i hate butt joints. I would find the center of the deck and run blocking for a breaker board or center board. that way the joints over time dont make a huge gap. personally a center deck board is always better. you can also even just run a flat joist like you did your picture frame boarder. TNC Builders out of colorado by the way. Good job tho love watching you guys! also run joist tape on all flat blocking so water doesnt sit and rot the wood. yeah its pressure treated but this insures the wood framing will last as long as the decking.
Instead of a solid blocking (plus drainage holes) install ladder blocking out of 2x8’s. This will allow for passive drainage without the possibility of debris buildup between deck boards, plus it’ll add lateral stiffness to the outer rim for the newel posts. (I’ve done it both ways, and the ladder blocking is far better).
Those footings are very susceptible to scour, even if the wood portions of the deck remain dry. I hope you added some quarry spalls or rip rap armor on the bank below the foundations.
Termite inspection wise the posts you installed nearest the creek would constitute a “conducive condition” for future rot or termite infestation, even though the material is pressure treated, due to the “earth to wood” contact. A conventional lender would be willing to overlook the condition and still fund a loan but FHA and VA loans would require the condition to be remedied.
Man I love your videos. I’ve learned to frame from watching you guys, built decks from info you’ve shared, and all around y’all have made me a better builder. There’s not enough thanks in the world for that!
My husband and I just discovered y’all’s channel! We love it! We love that there’s ZERO drama! Not one of you is trying to outdo the other. Y’all are funny and seem to meld well together! What a refreshing change! So informative too!! Keep on doing what y’all do. You’re doing it right! Many blessings for the whole crew and families!! PS…I watched all the videos for Jamie’s injury and recovery. Great to see how well he’s doing and his amazing attitude! God is SO good!
Fascinating, we have to actually stagger our beam joints here in Nova Scotia, Canada, rather than ending them all on the same post. This goes for all beams, including LVL. We also put a 4.5inch mitered cap on the end of our beam for aesthetics, showing as little end grain as possible when completed. Cheers guys, nice deck!
Back in the day 30+ years ago in Humboldt County, CA, we did everything in Redwood: Posts, girders, joists, rim joists, decking, railings... not anymore. And we loved working with Old Growth, but that's nearly gone now. Now it's PT, cedar, or even fir depending on the area. Cedar is the new Redwood out here in California. We'd also space the ledger away from the building for drainage. Get this: I paid .55 a foot... that's 55 cents a lineal 2x6 foot! which is a board foot if you do the math, and it was gorgeous wood too, man. This was four decks, two second floor and two third floor, a stairway, and a landing.
Good video👍 i'm an architect and i have a company we specialize in decks and mostly high end ones we use a lot of Composite decking (mostly Trex, Azek & duxxbak decking depending on the situation) what we always do when we can't use steel or composite joists, we use Joist guard or G-tape on the top of the structure. Most of those composite decking will last 25 year where the wood structure will only last about 10-15 years its not very expensive and its worth it, also i never butt joint board (they tend to lift after a while from my experience) so we always put a parting board. Anyway good stuff good installation and i love to see people going by manufacturers specs instead of going the "i've been doing this a long time i know what to do" type attitude!
Fun to watch this since I just built a deck this summer. We used joist tape here, not sure if it's code, but we did it anyway to help keep water off the joists.
Always fun to watch! I’ve seen some other deck videos where they: wrap the ground contact of the posts with a polymer that shrinks when heated, and seal the top edges of the joists with a polymer tape to reduce water absorption. Are these things you guys don’t think are necessary or just not in the budget? Thanks!
I think that does depend of the soil condition. The posts aren't put into the concrete and it looks to be some what of a high amount of rain in the area at times. Then it might be better if the posts are able to dry out then to protect them from getting wet since it will be basicly impossible to do. It's a bit different for April Wilkerson and others that live in for example parts of Texas, Arizona, Nevada or other places that is really dry where you can place the posts directly into concrete. That is not as adviceble in areas with more wet soil.
Not a carpenter, but other deck builds I've seen they have added zip tape to the top of the joists to extend the life of the wood underneath the decking.
Easy insurance. I’m replacing a deck because the pressure treated wood is rotting everywhere a screw went into it. Granted, it’s not new, but it would have lasted so much longer with deck joist tape. It’s right up there with field treating the ends of the wood that is cut, as recommended by manufacturers.
Always a pleasure to see what you guys are up to, and the current project. Thanks for sharing! (Btw, your advertisement is more tolerable than most, TY for that!)
Whats the point of those big beefy concrete anchor bolts when all you use to attach the post to the bracket are two little 3in screws? I mean I know the forces should only be downwards but if there is a storm and it tries to lift the deck, those screws will strip out way before that concrete anchor. Seems like you could just secure the post brackets with a smaller tapcon or something.
Love the little asides on the why's of what you're doing or not doing, example not fully tightening the footing bolts for final alignment, not fully tightening the hidden fasteners to get the next board under. Also, the end no overlap reasoning, and toenailing to the outside ledger board, and reasoning there as well. I didnt realize how much variance there could be in nominal PT lumber especially over the lengths being used. Also the best, fastest methods of handling the hills and valleys. The shingling shim deal makes a lot of sense. I suspect your crew from prior jobs / employers has some suggestions for some of those fixes. Enjoyed your work.
Camp edge clip fasteners and router the ones side of the square edge to give yourself the groove. That’s how I picture frame. Our code requires joist hangers to secure rim joist.
Is there a reason that you did not put a barrier between the rim board that contacted the slab? I know that it was green treated but I was always told to still install one. 8:04
It is so interesting to me how different the materials, process and regulations are between building a house in the us and in germany. Thank you so much for sharing this insight. 🙃
Beautiful country, and the deck isn't too bad either. Was shocked by Erik's use of the driver as a hammer, those drivers don't grow on trees. Take care and be well all 🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨
Thanks a lot for the VEVOR hint: they have retailers in France who ship to Belgium and the promo code you indicated even worked here. Super happy and congratulations for your extremely entertaining (yet professional) series of videos.
always a super duper job on those promos Erik !!!! hope ya guys are having a great Friday day off and having fun and Jaime is working hard inventing things
Seems like it would be easier to start the decking on the outside of the deck (furthest from the house, and rip one (or in this case 2) boards against the patio, than to cut each joist to match widths at the end. . . . Looking good though fellas!
So if the joists are wider ( like 7 1/2 instead of 7 1/4) and you plane them to make them even, won't they be smaller when they dry out? There for causing a dip on those joists? Also, miter gauge not jig.
It's more efficient and looks a lot better, to run your decking wild. Then cut it off and install the perimeter board. Plus, If your deck is longer then your decking, then divide it in half or thirds or? Run a parting board, perpendicular in the center or third or? Butt joints look really bad.
In situations like this one, I often put up my ledger first. I then pick out a couple of beautiful joists. Then install them on the 2 ends braced level and square.
VEVOR 10" Table Saw: s.vevor.com/bfQkdh
Coupon code: VVPRO to save 5% off
60k plus truck, $10.00 table saw expecting perfect results...............................
@perkinsbuilderbrothers that’s a dead link #404
Pressure treated lumber. Guaranteed to suck every time.
Sponsors are great and I’m sure Vevor is an okay saw, but to see you guys using any job site saw other than a SawStop is distressing to me.
@@stanhawkins1023 Why?
What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
Trex decking, square edge borders. Don’t cut off the hidden fasteners on the final course transfer where they are to the square edge use a biscuit cutter and make little cuts on the inside and you can use the hidden fastener for the square edge and the grooves board then you only have to pay screw the outer edge of your square boards.
Pro tip: instead of nipping off the fasteners for the outside (smooth) deck board, use a biscuit joiner to cut a groove on the inside edge of that smooth board. You get the added hold of the clip, thus needing fewer face screws.
Facts
Good call
Hey repent and believe, since when did using a biscuit joiner become a sin?
Thanks for the tip.
@@joshuaschlies7751pathetic.
I can't get over how close to the creek that entire house is. Amazing the old deck never got washed away in a flood!
That’s what I was thinking. Must be higher than the opposite side of the creek.
Pro tip for the band board on the deck surface, instead of a piece on flat that will hold dirt, moisture and inevitably rot out faster than the rest, put the outside two joists at the right distance that you can block between them for the band board, and have the ends of the boards land on the second joist in. Nowhere for junk and dirt to get caught that way 😎
The "giant T-square" was a nice idea. However, I don't know if I'd ever find straight enough lengths of wood to make one, lol. Some of that stuff at the big box stores are pretty trashy, and the lumber yards aren't much better.
I know it’s an added expense but to G-Tape the top of those joist will add many years of life to it!
I even do it to toe kicks for garage cabinets I build for customers because most spray out their garages with water! I. This case you hv moisture and I am sure the customer will spray off his deck!
PRO TIP
G,day fellas from Sydney Australia.
When flatting joist tops to a string line, I like to cut (3) 3/8" blocks, place one under each end (lifting the line) so no distortion of the line. Use the last block on each joist to just slide under the string line. You can plan accordingly (or lift).
🪵👷
"The railing was failing due to the nailing"
I freakin love it!
In Hawaii we like to treat the ground end of the post with copper napthenate for moisture and termites.
So Ray shaved his majestic beard in this video and we're going to pretend like nothing happened? Good jobs lads, as always!
i just saw a man that sounds like Ray but doesnt look like ray and it confused the hell out of me
It's nice to know that I'm not the only onw who saw that
Yeah I think it just didn't register for me, but it's there along at about ruclips.net/video/4wpvSZ3ICGs/видео.html
Didnt even notice!! 😂
It's address elsewhere. I heard about it 2-3 weeks ago.
I enjoy comparing the way you guys do things. I live in an area that can get lots of precipitation so we do a couple variations and some the same:
1. Love how you ran the joists wild and cut at the end to fit. Much faster and nothing but full deck board widths.
2. The big square was very clever for this application.
3. We use pucks between the ledger board and the house for water drainage
4. We use joist tape and NEVER scupper drains (drainage holes) because that is where our decks rot out first. Extra joist tape can be used as thin shims too. The joist tape seals around the fasteners to prevent rot.
5. We create slope away from the post base, although the ground hogs may just modify afterwards.
6. We start installing the deck boards from the interior joist and run them wild towards the outside. Then cut with a track saw, and install the border decking. This means inside joints are left factory and the edge against the border is nice and continuous.
Love your work. Some good challenges on this deck build!
Great tips by the way. Where I am in CA when it comes to decking and some larger lumber material, square factory ends are like Bigfoot you rarely see one and if you do it’s most likely ugly.
@@MrDougiefresh69 Absolutely true with the lumber here as well. I’ve found the plastic wood deck boards to be good for square ends though!
I think it was a mole. They do exploratory trails like that. It was a little hard to tell the scale for sure.
I’ve seen a lot of guys using zip tape on top of the joists. Do you think that helps. Also thanks Jaime for taking time at Swain graduation to talk to me and son. If said that it was the best day of his life! He was star struck!
18:42 HOLY SHIT Ray looks SOO much better with that beard trimmed!! 👏🏽👏🏽
I made a super rigid railing after a tip from a lumber yard. Make "I-beam" posts ! Screw a 5"x2"(1½) on the inside of the frame. Make short 3"x2" (clearance under the railing) and screw to the 5". Now place the first horizontal 2" all the way around the deck. Next a vertical 3" to continue the I-beam to the top of the post (minus a horizontal standing 2").
Now You can fill in the squares with X's or whatever You prefer. Once that's finished You can screw the outer final piece of 5x2(1½) to the posts or even down to the footing. All joints are hidden. Top of the railing with a flat piece of Your choice (wide enough for drinks or beer juggs?)
When drilling holes for wedge anchors drill as deep as possible even all the way through the concrete because if you want to get rid of the wedge bolt in the future because of changes of f ups just pound the wedge into the hole , ex : 4 inch wedge drill at least 8 inch suck the dust out with shop vac if you screw up take the nut and washer off and pound the bolt down into the concrete 😊
I’m at the point where I’m scrolling through not finding any good videos. I appreciate that I can always fall back on you guys.
Our company uses the Tropics from Lowe’s just like that. I think it’s somehow comforting to see your crew build a deck just like we do here in Arizona. Great job, fellas!
deck looks great i would just do one thing. as a deck builder i hate butt joints. I would find the center of the deck and run blocking for a breaker board or center board. that way the joints over time dont make a huge gap. personally a center deck board is always better. you can also even just run a flat joist like you did your picture frame boarder. TNC Builders out of colorado by the way. Good job tho love watching you guys! also run joist tape on all flat blocking so water doesnt sit and rot the wood. yeah its pressure treated but this insures the wood framing will last as long as the decking.
That’s the right way
Instead of a solid blocking (plus drainage holes) install ladder blocking out of 2x8’s. This will allow for passive drainage without the possibility of debris buildup between deck boards, plus it’ll add lateral stiffness to the outer rim for the newel posts. (I’ve done it both ways, and the ladder blocking is far better).
Those footings are very susceptible to scour, even if the wood portions of the deck remain dry. I hope you added some quarry spalls or rip rap armor on the bank below the foundations.
Definitely not a perfect scenario, but I don't know about historical water level there
Termite inspection wise the posts you installed nearest the creek would constitute a “conducive condition” for future rot or termite infestation, even though the material is pressure treated, due to the “earth to wood” contact. A conventional lender would be willing to overlook the condition and still fund a loan but FHA and VA loans would require the condition to be remedied.
" Did you check it? I thought you checked it." Job site banter . . . LOL The deck is looking great guys!
The customer (your teacher) should be proud of your math skill you learned in high school.
Man I love your videos. I’ve learned to frame from watching you guys, built decks from info you’ve shared, and all around y’all have made me a better builder. There’s not enough thanks in the world for that!
My husband and I just discovered y’all’s channel!
We love it!
We love that there’s ZERO drama! Not one of you is trying to outdo the other. Y’all are funny and seem to meld well together! What a refreshing change!
So informative too!!
Keep on doing what y’all do. You’re doing it right!
Many blessings for the whole crew and families!!
PS…I watched all the videos for Jamie’s injury and recovery. Great to see how well he’s doing and his amazing attitude! God is SO good!
Fascinating, we have to actually stagger our beam joints here in Nova Scotia, Canada, rather than ending them all on the same post. This goes for all beams, including LVL. We also put a 4.5inch mitered cap on the end of our beam for aesthetics, showing as little end grain as possible when completed.
Cheers guys, nice deck!
Back in the day 30+ years ago in Humboldt County, CA, we did everything in Redwood: Posts, girders, joists, rim joists, decking, railings... not anymore. And we loved working with Old Growth, but that's nearly gone now. Now it's PT, cedar, or even fir depending on the area. Cedar is the new Redwood out here in California. We'd also space the ledger away from the building for drainage. Get this: I paid .55 a foot... that's 55 cents a lineal 2x6 foot! which is a board foot if you do the math, and it was gorgeous wood too, man. This was four decks, two second floor and two third floor, a stairway, and a landing.
What an absolutely beautiful location! Y'all are truly blessed to live where you live.
The attention to the details is awesome! Everyone in the coments giving PRO tips lol..another quality Perkins video. Thanks for the great content!
Good video👍 i'm an architect and i have a company we specialize in decks and mostly high end ones we use a lot of Composite decking (mostly Trex, Azek & duxxbak decking depending on the situation) what we always do when we can't use steel or composite joists, we use Joist guard or G-tape on the top of the structure. Most of those composite decking will last 25 year where the wood structure will only last about 10-15 years its not very expensive and its worth it, also i never butt joint board (they tend to lift after a while from my experience) so we always put a parting board. Anyway good stuff good installation and i love to see people going by manufacturers specs instead of going the "i've been doing this a long time i know what to do" type attitude!
Congrats on the new Super Duty Erik!
I do not understand why I find it so satisfying watching you guys build. Keep the vids coming.
My guys. Excellent work & workers. Be kind to each other. Stay safe. Love to all
Seeing you guys come up with creative solutions is like watching MacGyver trying to get out of a predicament! What fun!
Hahaa! creative solutions!!!!! have you ever cut the lawn? Bruce Goodwyn!!! What fun!
@Repent and believe in Jesus Christ dig down deep Buddy! it will change the planet if god meets MacGyver!
That foldable saw is ... "cool 😎 bean" 👍
FUN VIDEO, ALWAYS ENTERTAINING & EDUCATIONAL‼️⚒️🪚✏️ THANK YOU,
Vinny 🇺🇸
Always a good day when the Perkins Bros upload!
Fun to watch this since I just built a deck this summer. We used joist tape here, not sure if it's code, but we did it anyway to help keep water off the joists.
Making the teacher proud! 🤓
Always fun to watch! I’ve seen some other deck videos where they: wrap the ground contact of the posts with a polymer that shrinks when heated, and seal the top edges of the joists with a polymer tape to reduce water absorption. Are these things you guys don’t think are necessary or just not in the budget? Thanks!
I think that does depend of the soil condition. The posts aren't put into the concrete and it looks to be some what of a high amount of rain in the area at times. Then it might be better if the posts are able to dry out then to protect them from getting wet since it will be basicly impossible to do. It's a bit different for April Wilkerson and others that live in for example parts of Texas, Arizona, Nevada or other places that is really dry where you can place the posts directly into concrete. That is not as adviceble in areas with more wet soil.
Putting wood in concrete is a recipe for failure no matter where you are or how popular your channel is. Wrapping the post is just lipstick on a pig.
Nice new truck! 👍
Should of kept the ledger off the slab with spacer to allow drainage
Fab work very inventive on the hoof as expected by the Perkins posse. Well done good watch Thanks UK
Wohoo happy Sunday y’all
3/4 million subscribers. Great work
Not a carpenter, but other deck builds I've seen they have added zip tape to the top of the joists to extend the life of the wood underneath the decking.
Easy insurance. I’m replacing a deck because the pressure treated wood is rotting everywhere a screw went into it. Granted, it’s not new, but it would have lasted so much longer with deck joist tape.
It’s right up there with field treating the ends of the wood that is cut, as recommended by manufacturers.
Watching from Australia 🇦🇺 the deck came out really nice well done 👍
My Dad used to use kids finger paint on the end of the point to mark the screws and center for footings
Ray, ❤ your beard that length! Looks more tidy.😊
Great job, guys, with the deck! 👍
Always a pleasure to see what you guys are up to, and the current project. Thanks for sharing! (Btw, your advertisement is more tolerable than most, TY for that!)
Whats the point of those big beefy concrete anchor bolts when all you use to attach the post to the bracket are two little 3in screws? I mean I know the forces should only be downwards but if there is a storm and it tries to lift the deck, those screws will strip out way before that concrete anchor. Seems like you could just secure the post brackets with a smaller tapcon or something.
Tar paper is great for shimming its a little less than 1/16th with the thinner stuff
Freezeframe at 3:51😂😂
Gorgeous and thanks for work 🐎🐎🐎👍
Love the little asides on the why's of what you're doing or not doing, example not fully tightening the footing bolts for final alignment, not fully tightening the hidden fasteners to get the next board under. Also, the end no overlap reasoning, and toenailing to the outside ledger board, and reasoning there as well.
I didnt realize how much variance there could be in nominal PT lumber especially over the lengths being used. Also the best, fastest methods of handling the hills and valleys. The shingling shim deal makes a lot of sense. I suspect your crew from prior jobs / employers has some suggestions for some of those fixes.
Enjoyed your work.
You guys are a great asset to the credo of craftsmanship of old but with 2.0 advantages.
Nice guys i like some of the other comments too. All good stuff.
Camp edge clip fasteners and router the ones side of the square edge to give yourself the groove. That’s how I picture frame.
Our code requires joist hangers to secure rim joist.
Is there a reason that you did not put a barrier between the rim board that contacted the slab? I know that it was green treated but I was always told to still install one. 8:04
It is so interesting to me how different the materials, process and regulations are between building a house in the us and in germany. Thank you so much for sharing this insight. 🙃
What a sweet spot on that nice creek!
Looking great. Would love to sit out on that deck & listen to the water
Wow! They do math with inches and fractions, impressive! Others would be cheating and just use a decimal system, but this is the real deal.
Eric, that KEEPS is making a difference!
Excelente trabajo se agradece que comparta los avances de la obra saludos y bendiciones para todos uds 👌
Erik's most helpful comment "you can't plain something down to make it higher" 😂😂😂😂 no sh%t Sherlock 😂😂😂❤❤❤❤
Always enjoy watching! Thanks.
Beautiful country, and the deck isn't too bad either. Was shocked by Erik's use of the driver as a hammer, those drivers don't grow on trees. Take care and be well all 🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨
thanks for another great video guys
Beautiful countryside.
Thanks a lot for the VEVOR hint: they have retailers in France who ship to Belgium and the promo code you indicated even worked here. Super happy and congratulations for your extremely entertaining (yet professional) series of videos.
Awesome job guys as always
You guys do such a good job 👍 and get along with each other good working environment 👍👍👍👍
So one thing I like about Sunday's is that there's going to be a new Perkins Builder Brothers video, yay.
Love this channel. Really looking forward to more videos of the Duplex build.
Can't do anymore until plumbing and electric contractors are finished.
Got that 23' 250 in the background😉
Jamie is seriously so intelligent
2:00 another use for the 345 triangle
I use Vycor on any and all horizontal wood surfaces on decks.
Cheap insurance to prevent water damage.
Coming along great guys.
always a super duper job on those promos Erik !!!! hope ya guys are having a great Friday day off and having fun and Jaime is working hard inventing things
Always looking forward to a new episode
Seems like it would be easier to start the decking on the outside of the deck (furthest from the house, and rip one (or in this case 2) boards against the patio, than to cut each joist to match widths at the end. . . . Looking good though fellas!
Great job boy's
Decking em
What do you think about taping the top of the Joists ( waterproofing) ?
So if the joists are wider ( like 7 1/2 instead of 7 1/4) and you plane them to make them even, won't they be smaller when they dry out? There for causing a dip on those joists? Also, miter gauge not jig.
Great vid some tips too
I have started to paint Black Jack on all ends regardless of it is the factory end.
It's more efficient and looks a lot better, to run your decking wild. Then cut it off and install the perimeter board.
Plus, If your deck is longer then your decking, then divide it in half or thirds or? Run a parting board, perpendicular in the center or third or?
Butt joints look really bad.
Palm nailers are great for joist hangers and hardware in general. Cost less than $100. Well worth it
Great build guys
Safe travels
1:38 NO WAY!!! I was thinking this when I watched part one of this series! Awesome, does this mean I am a pro now too?🤔🤔🤔
In situations like this one, I often put up my ledger first. I then pick out a couple of beautiful joists. Then install them on the 2 ends braced level and square.
Love your work 👍
Did Ray shave his beard?? It looks great! Great job as always to all you guys, love the location of that deck!
Deck looking nice yall !! 😊
Good job, waiting for part 3