@@MakersMuse I am not sure stuff is in my size there anymore. I scored too many covid kilo's. I use prusaslicer for my photons with UVtools to convert the sl1 files to the photon format. It's just soooo much easier to use than chitubox and photon workshop which came with the printers. Also silicone pet feeding mats from kmart are great for your workspaces! Can I also put my name down to adopt the printer if you ever decide to adopt it out.
Yes Joel better watch he does not slip on it, surely you can outdo him, come on Joel accept the challenge!!! You must have something you can showcase….
I've been running one of these for the past two months - fantastic machine. I went with this specifically because of the ChiTu situation. It's pricey but super convenient and reliable. I have three EPAX machines and I barely run them anymore - the SL1S is fast enough that I can get most things done on it. (I likely would have never purchased the SL1S if EPAX machines weren't locked down to Chitubox.) Regarding the resin sensor, I've found that the machine needs to power on to lift the plate and vat, and even then a slight nudge is necessary to bring the vat to be level with the printer plane. Only then can you fill to the 100% mark. I wish the markings inside the vat were a contrasting color, like white, so they were easily visible.
Hi, im looking for a first printer and was thinking of the elegoo J2 but when i found out about that software issue Im looking for an alternative, i wonder what would you recommend in a lower price range as an alternative to your current SL1S? cheers
@@houseoflatin the SL1S is in a class of its own, but the price is astronomical when compared with everything else out there. It's definitely not a starter printer simply because of its price. I haven't found anything else that comes even remotely close. My next favorite brand to Prusa is EPAX; I feel that the build quality is a bit above the Phrozen and Elegoo printers I've owned and their customer support is top notch - I had a board go bad in my E10 two weeks ago and they helped me troubleshoot and sent along a new board in about a week. Similar experience with Creality (on a $999 Halot One) resulted in... zero support whatsoever. Of course ChiTu makes the boards for many of these printers, including EPAX. The encryption thing is somewhat less of a problem now that Lychee can slice for these boards, but it is something that can be changed at the whim of ChiTu issuing firmware updates that eventually mainline into the different vendors firmware updates.
@@charlesfe would love an opensource alternative within a more budgetfriendly solution but i guess its not that easy. just to check, do you have any particular thought on the saturn 2? vs any anycubic variant? Many thanks for taking the time. Regards/Ed
@@houseoflatin I don't have any practical hands on with the Saturn 2. I kickstarted the Saturn 4K and ended up giving it unopened to a friend who has used it to print a ton of historical military models with no complaints.
"Wait, the S doesn't stand for sensual?" [Banana shirt] "However, I do get to do *whatever I want with the machine* now that the review's done." Should I be... concerned? 😂
Great review, as usual. Some thoughts: 1. As the case appears to be ferrous, you can make a lever-style switch extension that can be attached to the case with magnetics. (Like emergency stop switches have.) 2. A microphone could be added to the case that listens for the audio spike from peeling--triggered by the vat being tipped--which then alerts you to check on things if it isn't heard. 3. Stubby USB drives can cook themselves to death a *LOT* easier than a regular one, so a right-angle USB adapter to hold regular drives flat to the case is pretty cheap insurance, especially if you get magnetic versions that will pop off of the case if struck. Does that make sense?
I have no doubt that the SL1S is a great printer, but it's disheartening to see other printers that cost much less but print just as well being overlooked by the bigger 3D printing channels. The Anycubic Photon Mono has the same build volume as the SL1S, same cure time, same size screen, and it's not locked down to Chitubox either, and it costs a tenth of the SL1S. You can also bundle it with their wash and cure product for almost a tenth of Prusa's offering. The SL1S has a lot of fancy additions that Anycubic doesn't currently have, but if Ender 3 clones can get loads of coverage, budget friendly resin printers should too.
Thanks for bringing the Anycubic to mind again - I'd seen them and a friend was asking about sla ahem, msla - printers and I can now tell them to add that to their line-up of printers to check out.
Would love to get this but that price... I would really appreciate an opinion of the Anycubic line, which is all on sale for astonishingly cheap right at the moment. And their new system that just kickstarted too.
I have the mono which i think was 200 bucks. It's well build and i think it's a good printer but I'm a noob at sla. One thing i didn't expect was parts can warp bad if the fluid, tray, build plate are not warm. Also surfaces like the bottom of a bust will be bumpy and uneven which sucks really. Still glad i got it for detailed small parts. Hope that helps and also resins are all very different by brand and type but have no idea which are good.
I had a tough time finding decent reviews (in terms of video presentation, not the product) for the Anycubic Mono, but I managed to find a few. It's now sitting next to the wash and cure station in my office.
Thanks so much for detailing how to fix the print sticking to the resin container - I just got an SL1S and had the exact same thing happen with one of my first prints. I remembered this video, navigated back to it, and learned how to fix it. Ty again!
it is affordable. Even building your own SLA out of a used DLP projector would cost more to make, and there are always the China-made ones that are less than 300$, the only choice you need to make is buying China a have fewer options and less quality built-in, and you'll still end up paying as much over time if you factor in the cost of the slicer subscription every year, unlike the Prusa which you can count on the build quality and you will never be asked to pay for the slicer to run it. It's a matter of being someone that buys a Hyundai or being someone that buys Tesla, they will both get you from point A to B, but which you rather have!.
Prusa's offering is the wildly expensive one here. Is the quality and prusa brand worth it 4 times more? For some maybe, for me that's a very hard sell. I've been printing resin for a few years now.
@@Krinje Yeah totally. For what a Prusa SL1S costs I got a Saturn, Mars Pro 2 AND a Mars 3 Ultra and a good bit of the way (if not all the way) to my backed Elegoo Jupiter. It's a nice, high-quality machine not tied to Shitu box which are all great things and it prints fast but on the whole I can print concurrently on FOUR decent printers for what 1 SL1S costs so in a sense that is much, much faster by total volume. I own 3 Prusa FDM printers and will jump in with both feet on the Prusa XL when it drops but the SL1S is not going to happen
The should call it the SE for super expensive! It looks very nice but at 3x the cost? Also dlp is becoming affordable so this is almost out of date already.
I have had similar issues with pressing buttons with gloves on, Prusa is not the only one using that style of button. My solution was relatively simple, but works. I printed a button extender. It is basically a ring with the ability to fit around the bezel and then a shaft going through the ring with a stopper end. So basically it is a 10 mm piece of plastic inside of a ring that is held down by thr bezel. For less aestethic situations, I just glue an M3 bolt's head to the button. Yes, I was looking at printer options.
Great video Angus, love your shirt and yeah I'll be putting you in for an Oscar with that opening performance. Look out Pitt & DeNiro!! I love the capabilities of the resin printers but they're just not worth the mess and hassle to me. That's a sweet toy tho, enjoy! Side note, I was just looking at some Skyrim stuff to print last night. 10 years? Wow.
now that's the video I`m waiting for, ripping assets from my favourite video games. The SL1s looks bloody amazing and I would love to upgrade from my Mars but that price is way above my price.
You can get a Photon Mono under $200. Slightly larger build volume, same resolution, quality and similar speed as the sl1s. Well built machine and not chitubox locked.
Wait a second, what??? First of all my thanks for all the videos I have done in the past they are very interesting. But there was that one thing in this video gave me a little laugh. If I would have to empty the resin everytime it fails, I would probably stop 3D printing with resin. There is an option in your printer where you can light up the LEDs for some seconds. This will create a thin layer which you can easily peel off with the resin the vat. Even and scratch the FEP it will not matter because it is on the corners. You can search on the web you will find this explained more accurately. It's very fast and it works very well. 😘
yeah thats an option but it assumes any cured or partially cured particles are resting on the bottom of the vat. You are right that this method is good like 95% of the time but that 5% is a real real bitch. I'm pretty sure not cleaning out a vat after a fail is what ripped my FEP on my Saturn and resulted in my having to replace the screen. I now keep spare clean vats on standby and if theres a failure I swap the vats and keep going while i clean the failure out.
IDK if speed makes up for the price, it isn't the lowest pixile density, the or the largest build volume. Saving a few hours on a print is nice but if you have to print more than that one thing fast, and where a larger build volume can do more objects at once, are you really saving print time? I don't think so. For 2 grand, you can I have 4 elegoo Saturn's with maxed out build plates and print an entire kickstarter of patreon release much faster in terms of sheer quantity than one Prusa SL1S.
It depends what you're doing. If it's batch printing than yes, a larger build volume will help more. If you're prototyping a design than it's much more important to have a single print go fast. I personally won't buy it any time soon due to the price, but it does look like a very sensual machine ;)
That printer really does scream quality (almost as loud as your shirt screams banana) If I was using it in a small commercial environment it would be the one I'd get. Sadly as a budget hobbyist I'm stuck with something like an Anycubic. Not that they don't do a nice job. Great video Angus
Good use of external battery pack :P I just can't get myself into resin... but I appreciate that there is a non-Chitu system out there that also isn't a enterprise system. Prusa doesn't advertise it as a hobbyist printer, but still.
A couple of days ago i decide to buy a resin 3d printer, ended up ordering the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.... It haven't arrive yet... Now i want a sensual Prusa...
To be fair: Locking to Chitu isn't too much of a pain. It didn't stop me from perparing my files in Prusa Sliver from A-Z (incl. supports and orientation), export them as an STL, import them to Chitu und only use it for slicing.
Hey Angus. Just wondering what your thoughts are (if any) on (a) the Sparkmaker FHD and (b) Monocure3D resins? I have been using both since the fulfilment of the FHD Kickstarter, and am happy with the results, though the FHD is rapidly becoming a “slow” DLP printer, by today’s standards. I *did* do a quick run through your past if does, but didn’t see any reviews for either - if you have already reviewed them, can you point me in the right direction. The Sparkmaker FHD is the only resin printer I have ever used. I know Wow! don’t appear to have a great reputation, but my machine has been solid for me since day one. Monocure3D is an Aussie business, and their resins are designed/ formulated/ whatever here (although they are put together overseas…). I believe in buying local, and supporting Aussie businesses, wherever possible. :) Cheers,
This printer is awesome would be amazing if you could extend the z for more build volume. Like another 150. Call it the SLS1-300? There are a lot of hobbyists looking for kits to extend their current machines.
Cool tech but we're seeing commercial 22um machines now with Phrozen for a quarter of the price and seeing what machine did with that dinosaur bust it's seems like an obvious choice, miles ahead in print quality ... maybe when they move away from 2K screens it'll be worth the look
$2k lol! no -Sonic Mighty, EPAXe10, A Saturn, I could by 2 or 3 of of them, does it print faster than 3 printers? yeah the no chitu is great but it's not 1200 great.
$2000 ... yikes. Of course, with folks buying resin printers for less than $200 - it is scary to think about all that dangerous chemical just being poured down the drain, gloves in the trash and all that isopropyl in the water supply!
Can you do a video about translucent prints? You know about problems of Yellowing, tryng to get tranparent and that horrible problem with the upfaces than make resin repositories. Pleeeeease?
SLA is a must have for people who print very small but detailed objects. I'm not one of them and can't justify the price, the mess and the smell. I'll FDM until something cheap, inert and neat comes on the market.
Check spelling in added title near end of video... discroption.....But you're entitled to a typo now and again. Good review - always enjoy your content!
okay this video was the first time i ever heard the peeling and that sound alone is reason enough to put it into another room, i would cringe everytime thinking soemthing broke
2:18 Important note that is not visible on the screen: *you should buy NITRILE gloves* The chemicals from resin WILL penetrate latex and you might as well not wear them.
haha, I have emptied my vat only once in about 100 prints, and that was after the 2nd or 3 one. Now I just mix the new resin into the old one and get cool colours.
arch villain games use lychee to add there supports. i tend to increase them a little before printing as i have found with the higher speeds of mono printers do pull the micro supports tips with the print speeds.
Hey, I noticed when you mentioned the need to buy more gloves, that the ones sent, you've shown latex gloves. Elegoo also sends latex gloves with their printers (it's the only one I have experience and can say for sure), but I've read on some groups that they're not advisable as the resin seeps through latex easier than through nitrile. If you've been using latex gloves, can you tell more about your experience with them?
Very cool to see how this technology is slowly evolving. However, for me, I stick with plastic, as I can print much stronger parts with my PETG printing machine than that the SLA printers are capable of. Unless you start using engineering resins, which still break relatively fast, are way more UV sensitive and wear down the machine much faster. All in all, I'm still waiting for the holy grail and meanwhile I've resorted back to printing out measurements on paper, and cutting them out of aluminium parts by hand... Going back to the basics I guess.
@@matisan8407 PETG is strong enough for most of my applications, commercial SLA doesn't offer this strength, and working with PETG is very easy, cheap, and fast. For prototyping I find it a bit too much to go for more expensive machines since this doesn't fit the size of my company. Balance is everything.
Me, halfway through the video: this looks like a really solid machine, probably $500in parts so knowing the Apple-style "Prusa Markup" it's probably $750, maaaaaaybe a grand.... Me, ten seconds after googling it: jfc Edit: a highly-rated reasonably-priced mono printer and wash and cure station AND over a decade of chitubox pro ... costs less than just the SL1-S (no wash+cure station). That's wild.
It's definitely expensive, but it's faster and prints better than any other monochrome LCD printers. The tilting bed is a bigger deal for print quality than you might think. I think Angus was pretty spot on for the other reasons to pick it over other options.
@@LightsLuck- yeah it’s definitely intriguing at the very least. At 10x the cost, though, we’re clearly in the Diminishing Returns area: this prints, at best, 1.5-2x better and 2-2.5x faster - not 10x - compared to budget machines :) can’t wait to see how the market sits in 2-5 years for sure, either this will be priced down appropriately or there will be some mid-range competition
@@StormBurnX Certainly diminished returns for sure. But it is 4x faster than the SL1 and for a business that can equate to significant profit. If your business is limited by supply then it would definitely be a great option.
If only there wasn't so much "process" involved with resin printing. If it can eventually come down to basically none like FDM printing I will definitely be getting one for that sweet resolution, but until then there's too much mess and hassle and danger involved for me and I'm sure a LOT of other people.
Something I designed for myself has turned out to be popular with a select group and I'm now have to manufacture and sell it. I'm currently 3D printing with PETG (for the strength and flexibility) and wondered if Resin would give a nicer more professional finish. But like you, I'm thinking that the mess, hassle and toxic fumes is worth it. Looks very labour intensive as well compared to just sending to my MK3S
It may be fast but if you have a number of items to print that won't all fit on the bed then it would be faster to but 4 x $500 printers at the same total cost as this one, from somewhere like Mars and run them all at the same time. The total print time would be much faster than this and if one of them fails you don't loose your whole production line. And I still can't believe Prusa is using 3D printed parts on a $2000 dollar machine. How come most of the reviewers of Prusa products will ignore these 3D printed parts, but will knock other manufacturers for doing the same? (See the knob on the build platform in this video).
That intro has me dead. The banana shirt seals the deal.
Thank goodness we can go to Jay Jays again haha
@@MakersMuse I am not sure stuff is in my size there anymore. I scored too many covid kilo's.
I use prusaslicer for my photons with UVtools to convert the sl1 files to the photon format. It's just soooo much easier to use than chitubox and photon workshop which came with the printers. Also silicone pet feeding mats from kmart are great for your workspaces!
Can I also put my name down to adopt the printer if you ever decide to adopt it out.
@@MakersMuse oh the humanity
Had me in stitches.
Wasnt that call on a battery bank? LMAO!
Angus, that shirt, OMG.
What does the s stand for? I think I forgot lol.
Its just bananas
Yes Joel better watch he does not slip on it, surely you can outdo him, come on Joel accept the challenge!!! You must have something you can showcase….
I expect an equally fruity shirt from you next vid ! 🥳
Its glorious!
Did mine as an upgrade from the SL1 and I was shocked how large the UV lights are compared to the past version. And I LOOOVE mine.
I've been running one of these for the past two months - fantastic machine. I went with this specifically because of the ChiTu situation. It's pricey but super convenient and reliable. I have three EPAX machines and I barely run them anymore - the SL1S is fast enough that I can get most things done on it. (I likely would have never purchased the SL1S if EPAX machines weren't locked down to Chitubox.)
Regarding the resin sensor, I've found that the machine needs to power on to lift the plate and vat, and even then a slight nudge is necessary to bring the vat to be level with the printer plane. Only then can you fill to the 100% mark. I wish the markings inside the vat were a contrasting color, like white, so they were easily visible.
Hi, im looking for a first printer and was thinking of the elegoo J2 but when i found out about that software issue Im looking for an alternative, i wonder what would you recommend in a lower price range as an alternative to your current SL1S? cheers
@@houseoflatin the SL1S is in a class of its own, but the price is astronomical when compared with everything else out there. It's definitely not a starter printer simply because of its price. I haven't found anything else that comes even remotely close. My next favorite brand to Prusa is EPAX; I feel that the build quality is a bit above the Phrozen and Elegoo printers I've owned and their customer support is top notch - I had a board go bad in my E10 two weeks ago and they helped me troubleshoot and sent along a new board in about a week. Similar experience with Creality (on a $999 Halot One) resulted in... zero support whatsoever.
Of course ChiTu makes the boards for many of these printers, including EPAX. The encryption thing is somewhat less of a problem now that Lychee can slice for these boards, but it is something that can be changed at the whim of ChiTu issuing firmware updates that eventually mainline into the different vendors firmware updates.
@@charlesfe would love an opensource alternative within a more budgetfriendly solution but i guess its not that easy. just to check, do you have any particular thought on the saturn 2? vs any anycubic variant? Many thanks for taking the time. Regards/Ed
@@houseoflatin I don't have any practical hands on with the Saturn 2. I kickstarted the Saturn 4K and ended up giving it unopened to a friend who has used it to print a ton of historical military models with no complaints.
@@charlesfe I see. well, thanks again! and have a nice evening. Cheers
God that purple black color combo is insanely gorgeous omfg. I donno what about it makes me feel soooooo incredibly into it
"If you hear no peely, it's not a good feely." Need a T-shirt
I’d buy that for a dollar!
"Wait, the S doesn't stand for sensual?"
[Banana shirt]
"However, I do get to do *whatever I want with the machine* now that the review's done."
Should I be... concerned? 😂
The top right hinge of the printer is very concerned! :O
@@Miketz omfg lol nice catch
Thank you for continuing to do what you do under the circumstances. My heart is with all of you!
"It's rocking a monochrome LCD."
I see what you did there!
I don't, please enlighten me :)
@@petermuller608 unlike most other SLA printers, this printer **rocks** the resin bed up and down.
Haha so subtle. Very good
Dude you hillerious! Waiting for prusa to make something big enough for me to use is like waiting for simplified 3d to update their slicer.
Great review, as usual. Some thoughts:
1. As the case appears to be ferrous, you can make a lever-style switch extension that can be attached to the case with magnetics. (Like emergency stop switches have.)
2. A microphone could be added to the case that listens for the audio spike from peeling--triggered by the vat being tipped--which then alerts you to check on things if it isn't heard.
3. Stubby USB drives can cook themselves to death a *LOT* easier than a regular one, so a right-angle USB adapter to hold regular drives flat to the case is pretty cheap insurance, especially if you get magnetic versions that will pop off of the case if struck.
Does that make sense?
I love the fact that in the opening bit he used a battery bank instead of a phone.
Okay, 3 seconds in & I feel the need to comment on how awesome that shirt is. Okay, now I'll continue with the rest of the video.
10/10 for that intro.
Haha cheers, was fun to do !
@@MakersMuse Forgot to go back and add the rest of the video was pretty great too. Fab insight into the machine.
I have no doubt that the SL1S is a great printer, but it's disheartening to see other printers that cost much less but print just as well being overlooked by the bigger 3D printing channels. The Anycubic Photon Mono has the same build volume as the SL1S, same cure time, same size screen, and it's not locked down to Chitubox either, and it costs a tenth of the SL1S. You can also bundle it with their wash and cure product for almost a tenth of Prusa's offering. The SL1S has a lot of fancy additions that Anycubic doesn't currently have, but if Ender 3 clones can get loads of coverage, budget friendly resin printers should too.
Thanks for bringing the Anycubic to mind again - I'd seen them and a friend was asking about sla ahem, msla - printers and I can now tell them to add that to their line-up of printers to check out.
Would love to get this but that price... I would really appreciate an opinion of the Anycubic line, which is all on sale for astonishingly cheap right at the moment. And their new system that just kickstarted too.
I have the mono which i think was 200 bucks. It's well build and i think it's a good printer but I'm a noob at sla. One thing i didn't expect was parts can warp bad if the fluid, tray, build plate are not warm. Also surfaces like the bottom of a bust will be bumpy and uneven which sucks really. Still glad i got it for detailed small parts. Hope that helps and also resins are all very different by brand and type but have no idea which are good.
I had a tough time finding decent reviews (in terms of video presentation, not the product) for the Anycubic Mono, but I managed to find a few. It's now sitting next to the wash and cure station in my office.
@@DrewLakebrink How do you like it so far? Anything to compare it to?
@@carbide1968 Thanks. Good to know. I'd love to see more and better reviews of these.
I Wuant dat
Thanks so much for detailing how to fix the print sticking to the resin container - I just got an SL1S and had the exact same thing happen with one of my first prints. I remembered this video, navigated back to it, and learned how to fix it. Ty again!
Great review. I’ve had an SL1 and CW1 for about a year and they’ve been amazing. Now I have to buy the upgrades😊
Resin printing isn't my cuppa tea but still found this video interesting. Keep up the great work Angus:)
Yeah, I'd love to get one myself, but I have to wait until we a house with a garage. One does not f**k with VOCs in their living space.
Can't wait for this technology to become affordable!
Anycubic photon mono is for you
it is affordable. Even building your own SLA out of a used DLP projector would cost more to make, and there are always the China-made ones that are less than 300$, the only choice you need to make is buying China a have fewer options and less quality built-in, and you'll still end up paying as much over time if you factor in the cost of the slicer subscription every year, unlike the Prusa which you can count on the build quality and you will never be asked to pay for the slicer to run it. It's a matter of being someone that buys a Hyundai or being someone that buys Tesla, they will both get you from point A to B, but which you rather have!.
Poor people get technology eventually, just like 10 years later than everyone else.
Prusa's offering is the wildly expensive one here. Is the quality and prusa brand worth it 4 times more? For some maybe, for me that's a very hard sell. I've been printing resin for a few years now.
@@Krinje Yeah totally. For what a Prusa SL1S costs I got a Saturn, Mars Pro 2 AND a Mars 3 Ultra and a good bit of the way (if not all the way) to my backed Elegoo Jupiter. It's a nice, high-quality machine not tied to Shitu box which are all great things and it prints fast but on the whole I can print concurrently on FOUR decent printers for what 1 SL1S costs so in a sense that is much, much faster by total volume. I own 3 Prusa FDM printers and will jump in with both feet on the Prusa XL when it drops but the SL1S is not going to happen
Came for the printer, stayed for this banana shirt!
The should call it the SE for super expensive! It looks very nice but at 3x the cost? Also dlp is becoming affordable so this is almost out of date already.
I have had similar issues with pressing buttons with gloves on, Prusa is not the only one using that style of button. My solution was relatively simple, but works. I printed a button extender. It is basically a ring with the ability to fit around the bezel and then a shaft going through the ring with a stopper end. So basically it is a 10 mm piece of plastic inside of a ring that is held down by thr bezel. For less aestethic situations, I just glue an M3 bolt's head to the button.
Yes, I was looking at printer options.
Great video Angus, love your shirt and yeah I'll be putting you in for an Oscar with that opening performance. Look out Pitt & DeNiro!!
I love the capabilities of the resin printers but they're just not worth the mess and hassle to me. That's a sweet toy tho, enjoy!
Side note, I was just looking at some Skyrim stuff to print last night. 10 years? Wow.
now that's the video I`m waiting for, ripping assets from my favourite video games.
The SL1s looks bloody amazing and I would love to upgrade from my Mars but that price is way above my price.
You can get a Photon Mono under $200. Slightly larger build volume, same resolution, quality and similar speed as the sl1s. Well built machine and not chitubox locked.
"A box with tools, spare parts and consumables"
A bag of gummy bears?!? For a 3d printer?!? Oh, get it, *consumables*
Right? I was surprised when I opened my Mk3S+ and it had a bag of gummy bears in it. It was a nice extra.
Prusa go through several pallets of haribo bears every year apparently. Beats a yellow rubber duckie I reckon.
If you buy a 3D printer kit from Prusa, the assembly instructions specify when you should eat the gummy bears and how many for each step.
Angus, you have outdone yourself with the puns here! I agree though, SL1S SENSUAL! lololol
That intro give me a little chuckle. Thx
Wait a second, what???
First of all my thanks for all the videos I have done in the past they are very interesting.
But there was that one thing in this video gave me a little laugh.
If I would have to empty the resin everytime it fails, I would probably stop 3D printing with resin.
There is an option in your printer where you can light up the LEDs for some seconds. This will create a thin layer which you can easily peel off with the resin the vat. Even and scratch the FEP it will not matter because it is on the corners. You can search on the web you will find this explained more accurately.
It's very fast and it works very well. 😘
yeah thats an option but it assumes any cured or partially cured particles are resting on the bottom of the vat. You are right that this method is good like 95% of the time but that 5% is a real real bitch. I'm pretty sure not cleaning out a vat after a fail is what ripped my FEP on my Saturn and resulted in my having to replace the screen. I now keep spare clean vats on standby and if theres a failure I swap the vats and keep going while i clean the failure out.
@@matisan8407 Shit happens. So far I never had that problem. Lazy cleaning since two years... ;-)
4:36: It's rocking a monochrome LCD. Yes. Once per layer. Love it.
Also you'll have a much easier time removing failed prints from the FEP with the tank cleaning feature and an old support structure.
The banana shirt makes this video 1000x better hells yes
IDK if speed makes up for the price, it isn't the lowest pixile density, the or the largest build volume. Saving a few hours on a print is nice but if you have to print more than that one thing fast, and where a larger build volume can do more objects at once, are you really saving print time? I don't think so. For 2 grand, you can I have 4 elegoo Saturn's with maxed out build plates and print an entire kickstarter of patreon release much faster in terms of sheer quantity than one Prusa SL1S.
It depends what you're doing. If it's batch printing than yes, a larger build volume will help more. If you're prototyping a design than it's much more important to have a single print go fast.
I personally won't buy it any time soon due to the price, but it does look like a very sensual machine ;)
Yeah but if you're going for quantity, you could simply print the part once then create a mold and move into mass production
great walkthrough of the printer and the few problems.
thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😀
That printer really does scream quality (almost as loud as your shirt screams banana)
If I was using it in a small commercial environment it would be the one I'd get.
Sadly as a budget hobbyist I'm stuck with something like an Anycubic.
Not that they don't do a nice job.
Great video Angus
Hey Angus, it is not a 3D printer, it is charming snake toy!
Love the detail you cover in the review. It's the sort of thing use hobbyists want to see.
The cheese though...
Don't you love it when your 3d printer comes with consumables.
You should make a video about UVTools, and how you can use it to slice with PrusaSlicer and re-export to CTB file formats in UVTools
I'm surprised how few (none?) 3D-printing youtubers talk about UV Tools...
@@retromodernart4426 it's kinda the killer app. Best in class file repair too!
Now I have visions of Joseph and everyone at Prusa Research having to keep replying to support calls with "No, the S does not stand for sensual!" :)
I love the banana shirt. I need to watch more cockatoos
Good use of external battery pack :P
I just can't get myself into resin... but I appreciate that there is a non-Chitu system out there that also isn't a enterprise system. Prusa doesn't advertise it as a hobbyist printer, but still.
A couple of days ago i decide to buy a resin 3d printer, ended up ordering the Elegoo Mars 2 Pro.... It haven't arrive yet... Now i want a sensual Prusa...
Can you please do a review on the Prusa mini+ and the Anycubic Vyper?
Angus goes stand up. love it :)
your best intro ever!
Here’s a negative- 3D printed Prusa Knob. :). Nit picking here. I have parrots would this be harmful to them? I’m assuming yes.
I'd keep it well away from them in another room yep
Noticed the top of the clear orange cover is sheet metal now instead of just being a single piece of acrylic. I wonder what drove that choice.
To be fair: Locking to Chitu isn't too much of a pain. It didn't stop me from perparing my files in Prusa Sliver from A-Z (incl. supports and orientation), export them as an STL, import them to Chitu und only use it for slicing.
Interesting printer, gonna try to get 1 to test.
Looks well thought out... very cool design!
very nice video Angus..words are your own witch is good unlike the rest of the sales men out there
How did you import that skyrim dragon statue into blender? I've always wanted the collectors edition statue!
Nifscope! It'll be in the tutorial :)
Nifskope, just in case if you couldn't find Nifscope anywhere...
I love your jurassic park polytone!
💀 ... 🍌 man is thriving. Coming out of lock down has you super pumped hey Angus?
Pretty keen tbh!
Hey Angus.
Just wondering what your thoughts are (if any) on (a) the Sparkmaker FHD and (b) Monocure3D resins? I have been using both since the fulfilment of the FHD Kickstarter, and am happy with the results, though the FHD is rapidly becoming a “slow” DLP printer, by today’s standards.
I *did* do a quick run through your past if does, but didn’t see any reviews for either - if you have already reviewed them, can you point me in the right direction.
The Sparkmaker FHD is the only resin printer I have ever used. I know Wow! don’t appear to have a great reputation, but my machine has been solid for me since day one.
Monocure3D is an Aussie business, and their resins are designed/ formulated/ whatever here (although they are put together overseas…). I believe in buying local, and supporting Aussie businesses, wherever possible. :)
Cheers,
The small build volume killed it for me when combined with the price. I ended up with an Epax E10.
This printer is awesome would be amazing if you could extend the z for more build volume. Like another 150. Call it the SLS1-300? There are a lot of hobbyists looking for kits to extend their current machines.
why not ask them to just make it a full cubic meter ?
But where is the industry standard resin printer butt benchmark?
How fast can it print the butt?
Cool tech but we're seeing commercial 22um machines now with Phrozen for a quarter of the price and seeing what machine did with that dinosaur bust it's seems like an obvious choice, miles ahead in print quality ... maybe when they move away from 2K screens it'll be worth the look
Fastest like-click I've ever done...45secs and I'm in stitches.
This is speedy…but I can’t wait for an Open Source CLIP Based Resin Printer!
$2k lol! no -Sonic Mighty, EPAXe10, A Saturn, I could by 2 or 3 of of them, does it print faster than 3 printers?
yeah the no chitu is great but it's not 1200 great.
$2000 ... yikes. Of course, with folks buying resin printers for less than $200 - it is scary to think about all that dangerous chemical just being poured down the drain, gloves in the trash and all that isopropyl in the water supply!
So you warm ther build platform before attaching and printing it?
Yeah, I place it on a 50degC heatbed for a few minutes
Thinking about use Prusa slicer with my LD002R?
I wonder if rather than a tilting bed they could vibrate the bed to break the adhesion?
Can you PLEASE do a blender tutorial to prepare models for 3DP🙏
Forget the printer I want that shirt!!
LOL, like the banana shirt more than anything else. :P
are we getting a 2021 printer roundup of best and worst in each size and type category?
That definitely is an.... interesting shirt 😂 Great video 👍
Can you do a video about translucent prints? You know about problems of Yellowing, tryng to get tranparent and that horrible problem with the upfaces than make resin repositories. Pleeeeease?
Did you use automatically generated supports from Prusa Slicer?
Wonder how it compares with Nexa NXE400 that I am currently working with. Does it have extra settings for large crossections?
On increasing layer height?
Why.
I like it, but the build volume for the money is so small. I bought the elegoo saturn. Much more useable area imo without being ridiculous.
SLA is a must have for people who print very small but detailed objects.
I'm not one of them and can't justify the price, the mess and the smell.
I'll FDM until something cheap, inert and neat comes on the market.
Kirby paint and tile plus, on a battery pack, while wearing a banana shirt..very sensual indeed👌
when you realise skyrim has been out for almost 10 fucking years and bethesda has yet to release elder scrolls 6
Check spelling in added title near end of video... discroption.....But you're entitled to a typo now and again. Good review - always enjoy your content!
I like the fo intro. Another great video! 👍
okay this video was the first time i ever heard the peeling and that sound alone is reason enough to put it into another room, i would cringe everytime thinking soemthing broke
If you *don't* hear that peeling sound every layer when printing, you know something broke.
Dear Angus, you are now ready to replace Norman Reedus in The Walking Dead or Death Stranding
This review was bananas!
2:18 Important note that is not visible on the screen: *you should buy NITRILE gloves*
The chemicals from resin WILL penetrate latex and you might as well not wear them.
Perfect intro call👍😜👍
haha, I have emptied my vat only once in about 100 prints, and that was after the 2nd or 3 one. Now I just mix the new resin into the old one and get cool colours.
the emputying is to filter out the little odd bits you can get have come off and float in the resin...
is the Anycubic mono x a good printer
arch villain games use lychee to add there supports. i tend to increase them a little before printing as i have found with the higher speeds of mono printers do pull the micro supports tips with the print speeds.
Love that shirt.
Hey, I noticed when you mentioned the need to buy more gloves, that the ones sent, you've shown latex gloves. Elegoo also sends latex gloves with their printers (it's the only one I have experience and can say for sure), but I've read on some groups that they're not advisable as the resin seeps through latex easier than through nitrile. If you've been using latex gloves, can you tell more about your experience with them?
They're nitrile, I don't recommend using latex it's too permeable and can cause skin sensitivity over time.
@@MakersMuse Oh ok, thanks for the reply :)
Where is the the descroption, I'm looking for the links
haha oops
Very cool to see how this technology is slowly evolving. However, for me, I stick with plastic, as I can print much stronger parts with my PETG printing machine than that the SLA printers are capable of. Unless you start using engineering resins, which still break relatively fast, are way more UV sensitive and wear down the machine much faster. All in all, I'm still waiting for the holy grail and meanwhile I've resorted back to printing out measurements on paper, and cutting them out of aluminium parts by hand... Going back to the basics I guess.
If you need those kinds of properties you shouldn't be looking at consumer resin printers
@@matisan8407 PETG is strong enough for most of my applications, commercial SLA doesn't offer this strength, and working with PETG is very easy, cheap, and fast. For prototyping I find it a bit too much to go for more expensive machines since this doesn't fit the size of my company. Balance is everything.
This printer is bananas!
what is a good uv power % for the mono x for translucent resin?
Me, halfway through the video: this looks like a really solid machine, probably $500in parts so knowing the Apple-style "Prusa Markup" it's probably $750, maaaaaaybe a grand....
Me, ten seconds after googling it: jfc
Edit: a highly-rated reasonably-priced mono printer and wash and cure station AND over a decade of chitubox pro ... costs less than just the SL1-S (no wash+cure station). That's wild.
It's definitely expensive, but it's faster and prints better than any other monochrome LCD printers. The tilting bed is a bigger deal for print quality than you might think. I think Angus was pretty spot on for the other reasons to pick it over other options.
@@LightsLuck- yeah it’s definitely intriguing at the very least. At 10x the cost, though, we’re clearly in the Diminishing Returns area: this prints, at best, 1.5-2x better and 2-2.5x faster - not 10x - compared to budget machines :) can’t wait to see how the market sits in 2-5 years for sure, either this will be priced down appropriately or there will be some mid-range competition
@@StormBurnX Certainly diminished returns for sure. But it is 4x faster than the SL1 and for a business that can equate to significant profit. If your business is limited by supply then it would definitely be a great option.
If only there wasn't so much "process" involved with resin printing. If it can eventually come down to basically none like FDM printing I will definitely be getting one for that sweet resolution, but until then there's too much mess and hassle and danger involved for me and I'm sure a LOT of other people.
Agreed. Love the fact that I can fire up a slicer and send something to Octoprint and forget about it. Resin seems too involved for now.
Something I designed for myself has turned out to be popular with a select group and I'm now have to manufacture and sell it. I'm currently 3D printing with PETG (for the strength and flexibility) and wondered if Resin would give a nicer more professional finish. But like you, I'm thinking that the mess, hassle and toxic fumes is worth it. Looks very labour intensive as well compared to just sending to my MK3S
It may be fast but if you have a number of items to print that won't all fit on the bed then it would be faster to but 4 x $500 printers at the same total cost as this one, from somewhere like Mars and run them all at the same time. The total print time would be much faster than this and if one of them fails you don't loose your whole production line. And I still can't believe Prusa is using 3D printed parts on a $2000 dollar machine. How come most of the reviewers of Prusa products will ignore these 3D printed parts, but will knock other manufacturers for doing the same? (See the knob on the build platform in this video).
That banana shirt is..... Quite suggestive.