Mike - This is bringing back so many memories of my father. He was a union Master Plasterer in Northern Indiana. He started his career back in 1957. I remember him mixing plaster in the same way you talk about mixing mortar. I remember his Ford pickup truck with the windowed cover over the bed, the same as I've seen in your videos. I remember helping him load that bed with buckets and trowels and wooden levels and bags of sand and lime and gypsum when I was probably 8 or 9. I remember him waking up at 4:30 and getting his breakfast ready and heading out by 5:00 for jobs that were an hour and half away. I found your videos because I was looking at fixing some masonry around my home. I found something else: memories and a recognition of true tradecraft. Thank you Mike.
Hi Mike: Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge of cement from you many years of experience. Bravo for guys like you that take the time to pass along such useful knowledge. You're a champ. Thanks again. Jim Williams
Your videos are the best. I have learned so much about concrete by watching your videos. Your Dad passed his knowledge onto you about how to do this and now you are teaching thousands of people to do this via the internet. Pretty neat!!
Mike your the best . I did cement work around the house before. I had no idea what I was doing until I found you on RUclips. thank you very very much for teaching me things i will use the rest of my life. there is also some kind of cement work I find to do now because of you . thank you.
I can't tell anyone what to use. but I ususally on a outside wall use two buckets of sand to one bucket of S mortar. then if it will be exposed to any weather I will add a shovel of portland. now if it is on a patio where the rain hits it everyday I will use only portland. sometimes its a good idea to let some days go by so the base coat has time to shrink, my opinion thanks mike
Interesting. I worked on resurfacing and adding some grade to a little sidewalk project and tried everything until I read an article that mentioned 2 sand and 1 portland and I have used it for projects all summer and it works great. It's nice to hear a confirmation on it. Thanks Mike for your expertise and willingness to share it.
Mike Haduck. The winters aren't nearly as harsh here in Oklahoma. I'm learning how to lay stone and the professionals are helping me. Love your videos.
Mike, I just wanted to take some time and thank you for the videos you have posted. I had some cracks in my basement steps and stumbled upon your channel looking into ways to patch em up. I'm a younger guy mid 20s but relate to your old school methodology as it reminds me much of the way my grandfather who was a big influence on me during my teens worked on diesel equipment well into his 90s, the nothing to fancy get the job done kinda approach. Anyways after watching all you had to offer twice (including the banjo stuff) i came away with the courage to not only try and patch up my stairs I ended up busting up and rebuilding a old small garden retainer wall on the side of my house. Got quite a bit of smack talk from the neighbors during the process n probably took me 5xs the amount time to complete compared to paying someone to do it but in the end cost me bout 150 bucks for the tools and portland/sand and got compliments from all of them, my father in law thought my my stairs were brand new at first. I had my 8yr old watching n he even got into once you started painting the chickens. Anyone asks him he'll tell you want it stick gotta get it wet first. I'm in the tropics of WNY where we get the mildest of winter weather from our northern neighbors across Great puddles of Erie and Ontario so well see how it looks in April. Thanks again man.
thanks Jack, hearing these kind of comments make me feel I am on the right track, and its true lots of folks do not have the guts to try it themselves, I should be the one giving you the credit, thanks mike
Mike thanks for the education. Very helpful for a not very skilled (but wants to have a go DIYer). I liked how as soon as you started the lawnmower started up. I assume you asked them to stop please and then as soon as you re-commenced over came the aircraft.
Down in South Carolina. I think I've watched every video you've done twice. I wanted to thank you as you've made me a more informed owner. I know I can't do these jobs myself, but you've given me the confidence to make sure I get the RIGHT people to do the job and that's what I needed. I hoped to do the work myself, but seeing skilled laborers vs myself, it's better to pay a skilled worker the first time. Thanks Mike, I owe you a beer or 12.
Veteran realtime experienced knowledge . no better teacher than the real old timers. Reminds me of summers carpenters apprentice 1985 Bklyn Shops ARtie ( Italian) and Ray(Irish) two of the best tradesmen. similar to this old house. Thanks Mike Haduck _ please continue to share your vast knowledge .
You answer my question I am installing a standing shower & when you explain that Portland cement they use it in high way & swimming pools , I am going for the portal cement, because experience is knowledge, thanks a million!
Yup, this is one of the videos that saved me on my first attempt at fixing stairs. I’ve watched it 4 times. My garage is now filled with small wooden molds, bags of aggregate and Portland cement. My wife got annoyed that I snuck out at 1am to check on the 1’ by 2’ “slab” I poured.
Hey Mike, I’m from Kansas, we bought a small house, but the east basement wall leaks water really badly when it rains. Built in 1908 and has the old (red brick) walls with a slight bow in it. The house has no guttering and a sidewalk by it, which is terrible. I’m putting up guttering and putting in a new sidewalk, but this time the cement will go up to the house and about 4 feet out, should end the water problem. Then I want to put about a 1/4 inch of Portland on the brick walls to seal them, inside. What mix do you recommend? I was going to mix 2-Sand and 1-Portland? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, That is what I use, and I have not had a problem, others say different, but I do have videos out and how i repair an old stone foundation, They may help thanks Mike
Don't forget it takes cement weeks to finally cure, and every mason uses different mixes especially from different states, I get my masonry sand sometimes from the concrete company or quarrys, all depends on what I am doing, good luck, mike
Thanks for another excellent video Mike. I'm just about to restore a 1920 fieldstone porch pillar because the mortar has decomposed so I will use Portland instead of the S-type mortar like I had planned on using
my best answer is - every mason I every worked with used a different mix and every region and state and country is the same way. many masons still add lime ,nothing wrong with that. but you can go to lowes or home depot and buy a ready mix for mortar or Portland , which is fine, I use them for certain jobs. hope it helped, thanks mike
It all depends. Old school is just Portland in a paint but there are some resurface products at lowes and homedepot tha work well, depending. on what you want. test it on an old block to make sure. thanks mike
Mike, I know Concrete work is brutal work. I enjoy watching someone that definitely know his trade. You make it look simple, but I know it is not. Thank, Mike
, I wouldn't do anything on anybodys house that I wouldn,t do on mine. Of course it is always my opinion and my ways of doing things, seems to work for me. and I try to tell folks to always ask other pros. I appreciate the comment. thanks mike
I think this answers my question about whether I can add Cement-All to Type S mortar mix in doing a chimney crown. Type S mortar mix by itself seems to be excessively brittle when it dries.
Hi Sierra, I have a whole playlist on "chimney repair" I never added cement all to s mortar for a crown, that's a whole diffrent matter, I mostly used 1 part portland to 2 parts sand, I might have repaied a top with cement all for a real-estate deal to go through but what I would really do to make one last is cover the cap with metal, my opinion, Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks Mike, it amazes me how you can have 184k subscribers and respond to comments the way you do! I'm going to back off on adding Cement-All to the mortar mix because I think it's going to cause it to set too quickly anyway. I'll experiment with adding more Portland and if that doesn't work, go with straight 1 part Portland and 2 parts sand. Maybe the lime is causing the brittleness.
Hi Mike, I have found your videos to be extremely helpful! My father was a huge fix-it guy but hadn't been able to do much around the house the last few years. He passed away in January. I'm staying with my mother this summer to help her with some things. The two biggest items needing attention is the concrete (steps and driveway) and house painting. I just finished the porch, feeling much more more confident after watching your videos about 25 times. The corner was broken off and the front deeply pitted. I used mortar to repair (also a badly deteriorated corner foundation of the house) and later topped the whole set of steps with Portland. I just finished it yesterday and it looks great! My mother is thrilled. :) Here is my question. You mention in this video that straight Portland will crack. In other videos, you "paint" with Portland (and some bonding glue) for a nice finish, but there is no sand. That's what I did on the steps. I'm in Wisconsin - severe fluctuations in temperature with an occasional -20 to -30 in the winter and today (June 21) is supposed to be 96 degrees with lots of humidity. My next plan of order is fixing the cracks and pot holes in the drive with Cement All and then going over the top with Portland. Do you recommend using sand in this mix? And one last question... sorry this is so long. You mentioned that you sometimes mix Portland in with the Cement All. If I were to do this on the surface, what sort of ratio would you recommend? Thank you so much for your help!
Hi, I wouldn't mix the Portland in with rapid set, I do that in very rare cases, and painting with portland is a old school thing that dosent effect the shrinking very much. But patches without sand Is where it really shrinks, if all that makes sense, it's an experience thing, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck That does make sense, thank you. I'm patching with Cement-All. Since the driveway is so badly damaged, it's getting pretty expensive. My reason for wanting to mix the Portland with the Cement All is because I need to try to level the driveway more on my top layer. With a straight Portland and sand mix, I think it will crack where it ends up a little thicker in that process. Also, I'm hoping the Cement-All will speed up the curing process. I'm a complete amateur for sure but trying to do my best to make the driveway safer for Mom to walk on in the winter. Naturally, I'd prefer that my efforts resulted in something that looks good in the end also. Any further suggestions or comments that might be helpful?
love it . I work for E.G Conti for 6 months and I was the pit man. I learned that they had a special way of mixing which gave them a special looking mortar.
Good video. I never understood why the ready mix mortars never seemed to work for me. After they set, I could scratch the material away with my fingernail. I experimented trying to make a block of ready mix mortar, and it would just crush into sand. So I purchased portland cement and sand, and will do the 1 to 2 mix like you do. I have brick stairs to repair and also a flagstone patio. I am not looking for perfection with the patio, I just don't want the weeds growing through the joints.
I learned a lot about cement and sand. It's good to know I can just go with Portland's on most projects. I don't have any projects yet but it's something to think about
Thanks for the explanation Mike, this is very helpful (especially as I'm also in PA, so your region-specific tips apply for me). Your teaching style really makes the prospect of masonry work less intimidating.
Thanks for the great videos. I'm researching because I'm planning on doing a little flagstone work by my pool after a plumbing company wanted $700 to do about a 4x4 area after fixing a leak underneath.
Hi Mike. I just bought a home in Florida that I plan to renovate. I have extensive interrior renovation experience, and with this renovation I plan to tackle some of the exterior jobs myself. One of them is mortaring over a glass block window that's no longer in use. My guess is that the opening in the exterior cement wall was made for an air conditioner when the home was built in 1948, and then later filled in with glass block when the central heating and air was added. Now with newer hurricaine proof windows in the house, the glass block windows have already been covered up on the inside. The glass block is set back (not flush) with the exterior surface of the wall, so I was simply planning to mortar over the glass block. Good or bad idea? Your videos have been extremely helpful with tools and technique. Thanks! I watched this one to see which cement to use, and you left me hangin' when you said "In Florida it's a whole different story." What do you recommend I use and how should I mix it? I'd appreciate your advice (or advice from any of Mike's followers). Thanks again!
Great video. I'm going to resurface my concrete entryway steps. I have some minor spawling that I'm going to patch before I resurface. After I strip the old paint off and clean it, what type of cement/mix would you use I use to resurface it?
Every mason has a different opinion, I got to say I always use portland, because I never have a problem, I also think it is the weight of the retaining wall that keeps it in place more than the cement. I don,t thing you are doing wrong cause s mortar holds up a lot better than plain mortar, and a shovel of portland can't hurt.. and I sure don,t want to tell some one what to do. my videos are just my opinions being passed on as something to be considered... thanks for the comment. mike
mike thanks for all of the great tips. I always wondered how the molecular structure of cement worked. based on viewing many of your videos I'm going to do the block work on my shop addition.
+Dickie Brown I hope it works out, depending on the job for block I usually use S mortar, every area and mason does it different, I would ask the locals what they use first. hope it helps, thanks mike
Hi Mike - Thanks for the great content... I just turned 60 and pretty handy overall and would appreciate your advice on filling in a 1" hole that leads to some tunnel erosion in my Florida Gunite Pool with a pearl gem finish. This was due to a very tiny hole at first that was found by a leak detection company that opened to 1" upon applying a temporary patch. My intention would be to use 3/4" clear tubing and a funnel to push the right kind of cement/concrete into the void with low pressure from a compressor instead of just patching the surface. Which type of bagged mix would you recommend for this repair? Your suggestions and thoughts are welcome. Thanks and Best Always....
OK Mike, You have been super helpful but still want your advise on which one to use. I am laying down a 5x5 hearth for my wood stove to set on and please correct me if you would do it differently. I was going to lay a sheet of tar paper directly to the wood floor and then screw down the durorock or cement board on top of the tar paper and then screw the wire mesh to the cement board and then apply the stones. Again please let me know if you would go another route. I am also doing a vertical wall 5' wide and 8' tall behind the stove and was going to do the same thing minus the tar paper. Would you use the Portland type 1 or the Mortar type s to apply the stones on the floor as well as the vertical wall. You mentioned that the Portland is stronger so I thought it would be better for the 8' tall vertical wall since there is going to be a lot of weight with natural rock.This video is a thumbs up. Thanks again Mike. Wished I could work with you for a few weeks would learn a lot I am sure.
Hi Greg, best way for me to answer that is , do what you think best, I have had no problems the way I did it on my videos, it’s imposible To say unless I was there to see it, do a little testing and you should be fine, I hope it helps, thanks, mike
Just need to know what type of cement you would use on the vertical wall as well as the hearth pad. I am not holding you to any liability just need to go buy it and get started. Just want to do it the way a experienced mason would do it. Thanks again
Hi Greg, my rule of thumb is if it is up and down.( block ,brick, stone, stucco) I usually use S mortar, if I feel it is too week I might add a little more Portland , if it is laying flat I use portland, other masons might disagree, but it always worked for me, thanks, mike
Thanks Mike, You did mention in your video that type S mortar is weaker and that Portland is stronger. That is why I thought for a real and natural rock up and down wall that is 5' wide and 8' tall with the weight, the Portland would be better. So in this case would you still use the type S Mortar.
Hi Greg, I went Over three story’s high with half mortar half Portland, never had a problem, just make sure the foundation is good enough and that the stone is tied into whatever is holding it, I hope it helps. , mike
Guess what I’m trying to ask is: for sidewalk painting your way: better to use portland with sand/bonding adhesive or Quickrete stucco that has white sand & put bonding adhesive in it to get more consistent color vs possible darker spots when using portland painted on with a brush? Thank you for your knowledge and patience
Hi Mike, I have large cobblestones edging my driveway, originally the contractor put mortar between each one. Now 7 years later all the mortar is falling out between the stones. I would like to put it back, should I wet it before and what mix to use ? Thanks....Jim..... Love all the videos. You are your own man !!!
Hi Jim, usually when they put cobblestone and lay it in concrete like curbs it all stays together, but if they are laid in sand they move and the mortar falls out, I don't wet it in that case but the idea is not to make a mess of it, thanks Mike
I'm a Janitor / Sextant... for a Boston Church with a 5' Stone Wall and a series of steps up to sanctuary entrance. The stone wall has a bit of loose mortar. The side walls for the stairs are also cracking like crazy. When I first started working on the wall - I used premixed cement with some small stones built in. Well - long story short - that was wrong cement - tough to tuck into the cracks and between stones. Now I'm using Portland and sand. 2:1 ratio. I'm getting better at this. Tremendous thanks to Mike Haddock. I feel like I'm a Mike Haddock - Apprentice.
Mike I used premixed s mortar and it is very weak. Crumbles in my hand seems very sandy maybe not enough cement. I didn't see plain s mortar at lowes. I will mix my own next time. When I buy sand is it just brown play sand ? Thanks very much for your help can't wait for my next project !
I have to repair some bricks around a window opening and have to add some additional bricks to the sill. How can I make sure the color of the mortar to match closely from old mortar to new mortar? Sorry if you addressed it in this video or one of your other videos. RUclips has been acting up. Thanks for all of your videos to date!
Anthony Aaron funny you should ask because I am going thru the same thing right now. I am going back Monday and using small artist brushes to paint the joints with a close cement. the owner wasn't happy, but it is a small job so I can fix it in a hour. cement never matches because of the drying time so you got to play with the cement to make it work, I will sure to film it. won't have it ready for a while but artist brushes and a little time will fix it. thanks mike
Hey Mike, great video. Would you tell me why the stucco scratch coat on my house in Florida has horizontal cracks in it? They have not installed the final coat and I want t know how they can repair that before they do. Thanks.
Usually they do a first coat and let it shrink up, shri k cracks are normal, then the second coat covers it, that's the usual procedure, but you could ask, thanks mike
Greetings Mike - Thanks for your quick reply. I also have another similar repair to do with my driveway aprons due to rain washout. The question is which bagged mix (since there are so many at HD) would you recommend that could be mixed with water thin enough to flow / be pushed through the 3/4" clear tubing all the way into the voids under the driveway using low pressure from a compressor that would be "best" for this job. Respectfully - Anthony.
Hi Anthony, I never used any bags or pressure my whole career, if it cracked once it will crack again, check out my videos on concrete repair. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck While I appreciate your quick responses - it's clear to me you may not be the right person to answer questions, since no where in my post do I mention "cracked" and the "bags" are what the concrete mix comes in as shown in your videos. As to the "pressure" that was my creative idea to help push the material further into the void to be filled - much like a poly injection under pressure to fill voids/spaces under slab. My 2nd. post was a very simple question to fill voids under concrete that got washed out by rain, of which I'm sure you are familiar? Do you want to try and think outside the box and provide a better answer this time or just give up? Always Respectfully (Have A Great Weekend) 😀
@dmrspec4750 hi dar, with respect, first, I can't give advice unless I was there to see it, 2nd most of these new products I never use because it's overkill and the results i seen don't come out the same as if I did it the old school way, I show the techniques I used over my 50 years of experience and that's it, if my techniques are not adequate then there is no way I can help, but I appreciate it, Mike
Hi Mike, Appreciate your videos. They are very much helpful. I live in Toronto, and I would appreciate if you could please advise me on the type of Portland cement with the most freeze and thaw resistance. I am asking this question cuz I would like to replace my porch`s surface with flagstone. And you may know the seasonal temperature differences in Canada. Thanks once again, and stay safe and healthy.
6-6-2021 Wow, Mike your videos are great❗️ For block pads for a sidewalk, would it be ok to apply a sealer❓ Home we bought years ago had some 18” sq x 3” thick pads, and I extended the walkway using fast setting for a couple pads. When I purchased the next sack Crete I got the 5,000 psi concrete that took about 5 days to get full strength. They all turned out ok, but I still wasn’t happy with their surface smoothness. I wanted something smooth with less small rocks/ pea gravel. So, for a sidewalk pad size 18” sq. X 3” thick, what would be the mixture needed when using Portland Cement with play sand❓ You said 1 Portland and 2 sands..... Could mix be off some in a dry mix in my form❓ I also, made a flower bed border size 3’ long X 3.5” thick. And a couple being 4’ long ( kind of heavy to move ) and that’s why I shortened my border form. The borders needed to be pink to match brick on house. I thought concrete could be colored with dye, but it didn’t work for me. We had purchased a pink stain, but when it rained and runoff hit those borders, the stain just flaked off. So, I purchased some sealer. Repainted with the stain, letting it dry. Then slapped on the sealer. When it rained again.... presto, it didn’t flake off. I used both concretes to make 4 borders so far, but I still want them to be smoother. The tops of the borders are curved. I used 3” PVC cut in half and used 1 screw to hold them in place. When putting concrete into those curved areas, there’s always little pockets where concrete didn’t get. And I want to eliminate those gaps. Now, I pretty much have to destroy my form to get the concrete out. I used Vaseline and thinner paste all over those curved areas, and sometimes it’s really hard to get it to release. I’ve also lined the bottom with plastic bag. At ends of each border I add about 8” of parachute cord while concrete is in first stage of setting up. So when putting borders end to end I can tie them together to prevent separation. So after watching your videos, I think your formula of 1 Portland and 2 sands may help. Please provide any feedback or information about my dry fit before adding water. Now, most bags of concrete take 3/4 qt or a little more, but not soupy. Thank you👍🏻 from Central Louisiana 🇺🇸 6-6-2021
Hi David, your weather is a lot more mild, down there there the mix could be little more sand, up here sealers can be slippery because of the frost, your doing the right thing experimenting till you find what works, thanks mike
Hi Mr. Haduck. I’m a big fan and need some advice. I have a home in Southern Utah and we have had a wet winter there is a white powdery substance in my bricks and the edges of my concret patio. It looks like it is causing an edge to deteriorate a bit. Is there anything I can do to stop it or repair the edge so it won’t get worse. House is 5 years old. Thank you very much. Randy Payne
I came across your video I like the information on cement very helpful but I have one question what kind of cement to use on flower pot an out door aquarium? Portland's or another type ?
Mike - I have watched most of your videos. I have a question. I live in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) on Whidbey Island. I will be building a fieldstone wall next spring. Our weather here is different than much of the PNW. During the winter, we get 1-2 weeks with temps below freezing and the rest of the time it is 35-40 at night and 40-45 during the day. What type of mortar should I be using for the stone wall?
Hi mike, every video you’ve posted has been very informative and you inspire me to become a better mason with every job. I notice your mixing 2 parts sand into almost everything other than rapid set. You’ve even added sand to type s mortar mix,(which has some sand already in it) in the video where you repair steps. I was curious to know what adding the extra sand does to the mix. And why you do it. YOUR feedback (not a “cement scientist’s”) would be much appreciated.
Hi Franco, very hard to explain, every job is different, I did a series years ago called , masonry tips for beginners, I explain all the different types of cement, maybe you seen me adding sand to straight mortar, thanks, mike
I would get a couple old bricks and practice first, If you get a hose and wire brush the cement that is on the brick will clean up the next day, check out my how to do a stone patio on the cleaning part, good luck my opinion, mike
Hlo..so glad i stumbled acroos your videos...im learning so much...thankyou. i have to repoint brickwork in a semi desert area in South Africa should i use cement or mortar please?
great video. I need to do parging job on the front outside foundation wall, what cement can i use. and is there anything i can add to make the cement waterproof, coz in snow or rain the water seeps down to basement.
kloff tiger check out my video, masonry tips for beginners,, and how I patch up a foundation, and how I repair concrete steps, a patch is a patch and it will always have to be patched again, as long as you remember that you should be fine, thanks mike
Hay Mike, Your videos are the balls!....Please keep them coming…..Inspiring me to take on my front door steps with stick on fake stones like in your video. My prefab steps have a “Ghetto” look that I want to class up, any words of advice or caution regarding drilling prefab steps for support wire or how to finish sides and top? Can send a pic for reference. I live in northern MA. Thanks for your help! Mark McD.
I like mixing my own mortar cause I can buy sand better matches whatever was put in originally We can buy brick sand or cement sand Also we can get Missouri River sand or Kansas river sand ks sand has issues and gives alkaline silica reaction in cement. I mostly work on historic buildings My main gig is cement terrazzo repair but after watching your video I'm starting to do more stone and cement repair I'm going start making precast terrazzo steps and cement caps this spring Love your videos
Hi Mike. Do you never ad gravel to your mix? I have to pour a channel drain with 6" of concrete on each side, 6" deep and all reinforced.Your mix is rich in portland compared to manufacturer's instructions? Any issues with it drying out and cracking?
Hello Mr. Mike , I would love your advice. I'm using a large & medium size stainless steal bowls as a mold to make small fire pits. The first fire pit I used a mix mortar it turn out ok, nice. I tried to sand a few high spots I don't thinks there's any such thing as Sanding a little with mortar if you start you can't stop. I would like to know what you would use . Im not putting the fire directly into the pot I have the small cans used for tiki torch in the bottom with wire that fits perfectly across the top then glass that's used for fire I'm told that's all I can be used to put over the wire. I want it to be covered completely the wire works well . I was told I have to use a special glass any other will burst when it's hot or regular stones may burst & turn black. Also can you use a stain that's used on concrete or pots it seals soon as it dries. It is DecoArt Stain. I sure don't want to blow up my fire pits. Thank you I appreciate your time. Lorrie
Mike would certainly know better than me but I have rendered a pizza oven in the past which was subject to extreme heat and I used a 3-1 sharp sand to portland cement with fibre glass chopped strand mixed in and it has held up well 1 year on after numerous firings. I think for your fire pit I would put some gravel in as well. What do you think Mike?
Hello Mike! What do you recommend using to repair a crumbling concrete block home foundation in Minnesota? I am thinking of using Portland and sand for the crumbling parts and elastomeric patch compound for the cracks that are 1/8" or smaller. Can you please recommend a good, concrete gray-colored elastomeric patching compound for this vertical application? Many thanks!
Hi Mary, I got a whole playlist on foundation repair, in that I show what I used in all the different circumstances, I am sure you will find something similar, I hope it helps, Mike
hey mike. I got myself in a pickle. I have an entire stone foundation wall that needs serious repointing. I've done repointing in the past but not to the degree that's needed here. I'm managing to get the pointing done but I'm not sure how to tackle the dusty brown coat or what material to use. Should I use sand topping mix. How do I parge over the stone after I've repointed. I am already going to take a hit on this job so I just need to get it done. The parging I've done in the past was usually on semi flush walls not over uneven stones. Help! The existing brown coat is very unstable but there is no way I can remove all of it.
These videos remind me of the old days when my father and grandfather used to team up to do some job around the house. Dad had been in the building trade in the early 50s and Grandpa learned way back in the 20s. They used to call me over and say 'watch this and learn something'. They hated any fancy quick fix solution that cost a lot of money.
hi mark.i like your video's. l need to know what is scratch coat .brown coat .and finish coat .for stucco..I got some pachup to repair some area.pleàse tell me on each one what kind of sand & cement.shoud I use.on each coat. thanks again for every thing.
Mike I really appreciate all your years of experience. I am installing a natural rock wall behind a wood stove here in Missouri and wanted to know what type of mix Portland or mortar type s would you use to attach the stones. I am screwing 1" metal tubes to the wall studs and then screwing cement board to the tubes and then mounting a mesh wire to the cement board. I will then use the Portland or type s mortar with the 2 to 1 mix you recommend.
Hi Greg, I have a series out “ how I lay stone veneer” where I show what I use in each case, inside if I am understanding correctly I used S mortar and had no problem, they also make special cements for the stick on stone, I never had a problem with, outside in my area I usually use or add Portland, I hope it helps thanks, Mike
So I am not using stick on stone, just real stone that I have collected from creek beds over time. So if you were doing this behind a wood stove inside a home would you use mortar type s only or mix a little Portland maybe 20% into it.
Hi Greg, I think plain SMortar is fine behind a wood stove, some would disagree, but that is what I always used and never had a problem, I hope it helps thanks, mike
Hi Mike, thanks for teaching us about blockwork and concrete and such. I am moving to Panama ( Central America ) I was wondering how to calculate how many bags of portland and sand I would need to build a 30 x 30 building? I would eventually like to skim coat the whole thing but was wondering if you could show us the formula to calculate how much I would need to lay the block and how many rows of blocks I can set in one day? Thanks Mike!
I can't calculate what you would use because every situation and building is different, rods, pilasters, footers, windows, door openings etc, etc, everything matters, is is a hard call, but I will think about it when I do my future videos ,, thanks mike
Hi Mike, I live in long island NYC the weather here is cold, hot muggy. This is my first time using cement. My front house step is made of bricks and the bricks are getting loose. just wondering can i just use Portland cement to fix the loose brick. Do i need to add sand or type S cement. kinda new in this and trying to save money by fixing it my self. can you tell me what the best way of fixing my brick step and what kind of cement i need to buy. Thank you
Mike im thinking about using a 2" layer of rapid set mortar mixed with fibers to overlay some settled pavers in my backyard. What do you think of this type of installation? Would you tackle a project like that? I'm a big fan.
Hi Elias, I could never give advice over the internet but I did do a video called, (Paver repair, How I fix sunken pavers. Mike Haduck) and (How I lay pavers on gravel). maybe that will help. I always try to re-do things before I try a patch. thanks hope it helps, mike
Hi Mike thanks for the video, I am working on a 59 foot wide x 5 foot high stone retaining wall, I have been using 2/1 type s mortar plus one shovel of Portland . Could this wall strength improve by using 2/1 Portland? Thanks in advance
Hi I am repointing an old chimney which was built in the 1800's as modern mortar can sometimes cure too hard and crack old bricks. I found a type O cement recipe mix online, because you cannot buy it, which is 1 part portland, 2 parts masons lime, and 8 parts sand. I did not know if you have worked with older bricks and would have any suggestions or a better mix ratio. As for the climate I live in the upper south part of the US. Thank you
up here in these parts 0 mortar does not last, I use nothing less than s mortar, than seal all the brickwork to keep it out, I would ask the locals, supply and brick yards in your area first what they suggest,, i hope it helps, thanks mike
Hi Mike Thanks for all your videos. I have a question about mortars. When building a rock retaining wall vs block or brick retaining wall the gaps between the rocks are greater than the gaps in blocks and bricks. On my Type S mortar mix bag it states that it is good for up to 1/2" gap. So, what mortar would you recommend for the larger gaps in a rock wall? Would coarse sand be better then fine sand?
Mike - This is bringing back so many memories of my father. He was a union Master Plasterer in Northern Indiana. He started his career back in 1957. I remember him mixing plaster in the same way you talk about mixing mortar. I remember his Ford pickup truck with the windowed cover over the bed, the same as I've seen in your videos. I remember helping him load that bed with buckets and trowels and wooden levels and bags of sand and lime and gypsum when I was probably 8 or 9. I remember him waking up at 4:30 and getting his breakfast ready and heading out by 5:00 for jobs that were an hour and half away.
I found your videos because I was looking at fixing some masonry around my home. I found something else: memories and a recognition of true tradecraft. Thank you Mike.
Thanks Chris, I actually get a lot of comments like these, it's a good thing to remember, pass it on, thanks Mike
Hi Mike:
Thank you so much for passing on your knowledge of cement from you many years of experience. Bravo for guys like you that take the time to pass along such useful knowledge. You're a champ.
Thanks again.
Jim Williams
Perfectly said.
اللهم صل على محمد وال محمد
Wow. I'm really enjoying these older videos popping up! Thanks, Mike!
Thanks Linda, Mike
Your videos are the best. I have learned so much about concrete by watching your videos. Your Dad passed his knowledge onto you about how to do this and now you are teaching thousands of people to do this via the internet. Pretty neat!!
thanks, I appreciate it and am still working on it. mike
You are my absolute go-to guy for any masonry instruction. You are easy and educational!
Thanks cld,Mike
Mike your the best . I did cement work around the house before. I had no idea what I was doing until I found you on RUclips. thank you very very much for teaching me things i will use the rest of my life. there is also some kind of cement work I find to do now because of you . thank you.
Thanks Smokey, I appreciate it, Mike
Your videos are incredibly helpful. Helped me out multiple times. Thanks, Mike.
Thanks Gypsy, Mike
I can't tell anyone what to use. but I ususally on a outside wall use two buckets of sand to one bucket of S mortar. then if it will be exposed to any weather I will add a shovel of portland. now if it is on a patio where the rain hits it everyday I will use only portland. sometimes its a good idea to let some days go by so the base coat has time to shrink, my opinion thanks mike
Mike truly thank you for your time and the education you provide. I can't wait to get the shirt I ordered a few weeks back I'll wear it with pride.
Thanks, I appreciate it, Mike
@@MikeHaduck shirt came in. Showed it to my dad he got a kick out of it. Thanks again
Thanks, Mike
Interesting. I worked on resurfacing and adding some grade to a little sidewalk project and tried everything until I read an article that mentioned 2 sand and 1 portland and I have used it for projects all summer and it works great. It's nice to hear a confirmation on it. Thanks Mike for your expertise and willingness to share it.
Thanks Dallas, mike
on ready mix cements I just add the water and use it that way. hope it helps
Very helpful for the DIYer. Thank you for not getting into too much detail. You're a great teacher.
Thanks Larry, I appreciate it, Mike
Mike Haduck. The winters aren't nearly as harsh here in Oklahoma. I'm learning how to lay stone and the professionals are helping me. Love your videos.
Jessy Churchwell thanks Jessy, I appreciate it. mike
Mike, I just wanted to take some time and thank you for the videos you have posted. I had some cracks in my basement steps and stumbled upon your channel looking into ways to patch em up. I'm a younger guy mid 20s but relate to your old school methodology as it reminds me much of the way my grandfather who was a big influence on me during my teens worked on diesel equipment well into his 90s, the nothing to fancy get the job done kinda approach. Anyways after watching all you had to offer twice (including the banjo stuff) i came away with the courage to not only try and patch up my stairs I ended up busting up and rebuilding a old small garden retainer wall on the side of my house. Got quite a bit of smack talk from the neighbors during the process n probably took me 5xs the amount time to complete compared to paying someone to do it but in the end cost me bout 150 bucks for the tools and portland/sand and got compliments from all of them, my father in law thought my my stairs were brand new at first. I had my 8yr old watching n he even got into once you started painting the chickens. Anyone asks him he'll tell you want it stick gotta get it wet first. I'm in the tropics of WNY where we get the mildest of winter weather from our northern neighbors across Great puddles of Erie and Ontario so well see how it looks in April. Thanks again man.
thanks Jack, hearing these kind of comments make me feel I am on the right track, and its true lots of folks do not have the guts to try it themselves, I should be the one giving you the credit, thanks mike
Mike thanks for the education. Very helpful for a not very skilled (but wants to have a go DIYer). I liked how as soon as you started the lawnmower started up. I assume you asked them to stop please and then as soon as you re-commenced over came the aircraft.
Very true bill, lol, mike
Great video! You did a great job breaking down what types of cements there are and what they are good for! Masonry is definitely an art thank you.
Thanks El, Mike
Down in South Carolina. I think I've watched every video you've done twice. I wanted to thank you as you've made me a more informed owner. I know I can't do these jobs myself, but you've given me the confidence to make sure I get the RIGHT people to do the job and that's what I needed. I hoped to do the work myself, but seeing skilled laborers vs myself, it's better to pay a skilled worker the first time. Thanks Mike, I owe you a beer or 12.
Thanks HBC, I appreciate it. the south has same different techniques that is not required as up here because of the weather, but I appreciate it. mike
Veteran realtime experienced knowledge . no better teacher than the real old timers. Reminds me of summers carpenters apprentice 1985 Bklyn Shops ARtie ( Italian) and Ray(Irish) two of the best tradesmen. similar to this old house. Thanks Mike Haduck _ please continue to share your vast knowledge .
Thanks Wynton, I appreciate it, mike
Here from your Lime or Portland video. Love your work. Thank you for the cement lesson!
Thanks, Mike
You answer my question I am installing a standing shower & when you explain that Portland cement they use it in high way & swimming pools , I am going for the portal cement, because experience is knowledge, thanks a million!
Thanks Hector, Mike
Your videos are the best on the youtubes. Im watching them all before beginning a set of projects!
Yup, this is one of the videos that saved me on my first attempt at fixing stairs. I’ve watched it 4 times. My garage is now filled with small wooden molds, bags of aggregate and Portland cement. My wife got annoyed that I snuck out at 1am to check on the 1’ by 2’ “slab” I poured.
Thanks Jonathan, I bet it comes out great, mike
Mike Haduck Masonry
I was just watching your bird bath video when I got your reply. Your the best Mike, thank you!
Out of all the videos I've watched, your the only one that tills me how much sand to mix with Portland...thanks!
Hi Jim, every area of the country is different and depends on what you’re doing, but for the most part that’s what I use, thanks Mike
Hey Mike, I’m from Kansas, we bought a small house, but the east basement wall leaks water really badly when it rains. Built in 1908 and has the old (red brick) walls with a slight bow in it. The house has no guttering and a sidewalk by it, which is terrible. I’m putting up guttering and putting in a new sidewalk, but this time the cement will go up to the house and about 4 feet out, should end the water problem.
Then I want to put about a 1/4 inch of Portland on the brick walls to seal them, inside. What mix do you recommend? I was going to mix 2-Sand and 1-Portland? Thanks, Jim
Hi Jim, That is what I use, and I have not had a problem, others say different, but I do have videos out and how i repair an old stone foundation, They may help thanks Mike
Don't forget it takes cement weeks to finally cure, and every mason uses different mixes especially from different states, I get my masonry sand sometimes from the concrete company or quarrys, all depends on what I am doing, good luck, mike
Thanks for another excellent video Mike. I'm just about to restore a 1920 fieldstone porch pillar because the mortar has decomposed so I will use Portland instead of the S-type mortar like I had planned on using
Thanks for you for the videos Mike, I'm young I really value this work, thank you for your videos.
Thanks Joel, mike
my best answer is - every mason I every worked with used a different mix and every region and state and country is the same way. many masons still add lime ,nothing wrong with that. but you can go to lowes or home depot and buy a ready mix for mortar or Portland , which is fine, I use them for certain jobs. hope it helped, thanks mike
I appreciate that. I have fun making them. thanks mike
It all depends. Old school is just Portland in a paint but there are some resurface products at lowes and homedepot tha work well, depending. on what you want. test it on an old block to make sure. thanks mike
Mike, I know Concrete work is brutal work. I enjoy watching someone that definitely know his trade. You make it look simple, but I know it is not.
Thank, Mike
Thank you, I appreciate it. mike
Great video and great visuals. Thanks for sharing
Thanks Ray, mike
, I wouldn't do anything on anybodys house that I wouldn,t do on mine. Of course it is always my opinion and my ways of doing things, seems to work for me. and I try to tell folks to always ask other pros. I appreciate the comment. thanks mike
I think this answers my question about whether I can add Cement-All to Type S mortar mix in doing a chimney crown. Type S mortar mix by itself seems to be excessively brittle when it dries.
Hi Sierra, I have a whole playlist on "chimney repair" I never added cement all to s mortar for a crown, that's a whole diffrent matter, I mostly used 1 part portland to 2 parts sand, I might have repaied a top with cement all for a real-estate deal to go through but what I would really do to make one last is cover the cap with metal, my opinion, Mike
@@MikeHaduck Thanks Mike, it amazes me how you can have 184k subscribers and respond to comments the way you do! I'm going to back off on adding Cement-All to the mortar mix because I think it's going to cause it to set too quickly anyway. I'll experiment with adding more Portland and if that doesn't work, go with straight 1 part Portland and 2 parts sand. Maybe the lime is causing the brittleness.
@@sierragreen I am sure it will work out, thanks Mike
Hi Mike,
I have found your videos to be extremely helpful! My father was a huge fix-it guy but hadn't been able to do much around the house the last few years. He passed away in January. I'm staying with my mother this summer to help her with some things. The two biggest items needing attention is the concrete (steps and driveway) and house painting.
I just finished the porch, feeling much more more confident after watching your videos about 25 times. The corner was broken off and the front deeply pitted. I used mortar to repair (also a badly deteriorated corner foundation of the house) and later topped the whole set of steps with Portland. I just finished it yesterday and it looks great! My mother is thrilled. :)
Here is my question. You mention in this video that straight Portland will crack. In other videos, you "paint" with Portland (and some bonding glue) for a nice finish, but there is no sand. That's what I did on the steps. I'm in Wisconsin - severe fluctuations in temperature with an occasional -20 to -30 in the winter and today (June 21) is supposed to be 96 degrees with lots of humidity. My next plan of order is fixing the cracks and pot holes in the drive with Cement All and then going over the top with Portland. Do you recommend using sand in this mix?
And one last question... sorry this is so long. You mentioned that you sometimes mix Portland in with the Cement All. If I were to do this on the surface, what sort of ratio would you recommend?
Thank you so much for your help!
Hi, I wouldn't mix the Portland in with rapid set, I do that in very rare cases, and painting with portland is a old school thing that dosent effect the shrinking very much. But patches without sand Is where it really shrinks, if all that makes sense, it's an experience thing, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck That does make sense, thank you. I'm patching with Cement-All. Since the driveway is so badly damaged, it's getting pretty expensive. My reason for wanting to mix the Portland with the Cement All is because I need to try to level the driveway more on my top layer. With a straight Portland and sand mix, I think it will crack where it ends up a little thicker in that process. Also, I'm hoping the Cement-All will speed up the curing process.
I'm a complete amateur for sure but trying to do my best to make the driveway safer for Mom to walk on in the winter. Naturally, I'd prefer that my efforts resulted in something that looks good in the end also. Any further suggestions or comments that might be helpful?
love it . I work for E.G Conti for 6 months and I was the pit man. I learned that they had a special way of mixing which gave them a special looking mortar.
thanks ty, I appreciate it. mike
Nice vid! I love the old school knowledge seems to always be the best!
Thanks Dave, mike
Thank you for sharing your knowledge Mr Mike .
Thanks, Mike
Thanks for the video! Very informative and easy to understand.
thanks, I hope it helps. mike
Good video. I never understood why the ready mix mortars never seemed to work for me. After they set, I could scratch the material away with my fingernail. I experimented trying to make a block of ready mix mortar, and it would just crush into sand. So I purchased portland cement and sand, and will do the 1 to 2 mix like you do. I have brick stairs to repair and also a flagstone patio. I am not looking for perfection with the patio, I just don't want the weeds growing through the joints.
I learned a lot about cement and sand. It's good to know I can just go with Portland's on most projects. I don't have any projects yet but it's something to think about
Hi Laura, I usually show what I used in each of my projects, thanks. Mike
Thanks for the explanation Mike, this is very helpful (especially as I'm also in PA, so your region-specific tips apply for me). Your teaching style really makes the prospect of masonry work less intimidating.
thanks, glad it helps, mike
Thanks for the great videos. I'm researching because I'm planning on doing a little flagstone work by my pool after a plumbing company wanted $700 to do about a 4x4 area after fixing a leak underneath.
I hope it helps. lots of stuff on youtube to give you good ideas. thanks mike
Great video to learn about this. I have always been wondering about the differences about mortar and cement.
Hi Mike. I just bought a home in Florida that I plan to renovate. I have extensive interrior renovation experience, and with this renovation I plan to tackle some of the exterior jobs myself. One of them is mortaring over a glass block window that's no longer in use. My guess is that the opening in the exterior cement wall was made for an air conditioner when the home was built in 1948, and then later filled in with glass block when the central heating and air was added. Now with newer hurricaine proof windows in the house, the glass block windows have already been covered up on the inside. The glass block is set back (not flush) with the exterior surface of the wall, so I was simply planning to mortar over the glass block. Good or bad idea? Your videos have been extremely helpful with tools and technique. Thanks! I watched this one to see which cement to use, and you left me hangin' when you said "In Florida it's a whole different story." What do you recommend I use and how should I mix it? I'd appreciate your advice (or advice from any of Mike's followers). Thanks again!
Hi Alex, florida is a different story and I can not say for sure, in that case I would ask the locals, I hope it helps thanks mike
Ok. Thanks Mike. Look forward to watching more of you videos. Good luck to you.
Great video. I'm going to resurface my concrete entryway steps. I have some minor spawling that I'm going to patch before I resurface. After I strip the old paint off and clean it, what type of cement/mix would you use I use to resurface it?
Thank you so much! These videos have helped me do so many jobs around my house.
I am having fun making the videos. thanks mike
Every mason has a different opinion, I got to say I always use portland, because I never have a problem, I also think it is the weight of the retaining wall that keeps it in place more than the cement. I don,t thing you are doing wrong cause s mortar holds up a lot better than plain mortar, and a shovel of portland can't hurt.. and I sure don,t want to tell some one what to do. my videos are just my opinions being passed on as something to be considered... thanks for the comment. mike
mike thanks for all of the great tips. I always wondered how the molecular structure of cement worked. based on viewing many of your videos I'm going to do the block work on my shop addition.
+Dickie Brown I hope it works out, depending on the job for block I usually use S mortar, every area and mason does it different, I would ask the locals what they use first. hope it helps, thanks mike
Hi Mike - Thanks for the great content... I just turned 60 and pretty handy overall and would appreciate your advice on filling in a 1" hole that leads to some tunnel erosion in my Florida Gunite Pool with a pearl gem finish. This was due to a very tiny hole at first that was found by a leak detection company that opened to 1" upon applying a temporary patch. My intention would be to use 3/4" clear tubing and a funnel to push the right kind of cement/concrete into the void with low pressure from a compressor instead of just patching the surface. Which type of bagged mix would you recommend for this repair? Your suggestions and thoughts are welcome. Thanks and Best Always....
Hi dmr,, pools are a whole diffrent thing, I would talk with the guys who do it everyday, you don't want leaks, thanks Mike
Mike- Once again, thanks so much for another fantastic video containing outstanding unbiased information. JJN ALBANY, NY.
+james nagle thanks, I appreciate it. I know other folks have other opinions, thanks mike
Hi Mike. Could I use Portland to make mud bed for swimming pool wall tile thanks for the video and sharing.😃
Hi 300, I can't answer that, I think it is more a swimming pool thing, thanks Mike
OK Mike, You have been super helpful but still want your advise on which one to use. I am laying down a 5x5 hearth for my wood stove to set on and please correct me if you would do it differently. I was going to lay a sheet of tar paper directly to the wood floor and then screw down the durorock or cement board on top of the tar paper and then screw the wire mesh to the cement board and then apply the stones. Again please let me know if you would go another route. I am also doing a vertical wall 5' wide and 8' tall behind the stove and was going to do the same thing minus the tar paper. Would you use the Portland type 1 or the Mortar type s to apply the stones on the floor as well as the vertical wall. You mentioned that the Portland is stronger so I thought it would be better for the 8' tall vertical wall since there is going to be a lot of weight with natural rock.This video is a thumbs up. Thanks again Mike. Wished I could work with you for a few weeks would learn a lot I am sure.
Hi Greg, best way for me to answer that is , do what you think best, I have had no problems the way I did it on my videos, it’s imposible To say unless I was there to see it, do a little testing and you should be fine, I hope it helps, thanks, mike
Just need to know what type of cement you would use on the vertical wall as well as the hearth pad. I am not holding you to any liability just need to go buy it and get started. Just want to do it the way a experienced mason would do it. Thanks again
Hi Greg, my rule of thumb is if it is up and down.( block ,brick, stone, stucco) I usually use S mortar, if I feel it is too week I might add a little more Portland , if it is laying flat I use portland, other masons might disagree, but it always worked for me, thanks, mike
Thanks Mike, You did mention in your video that type S mortar is weaker and that Portland is stronger. That is why I thought for a real and natural rock up and down wall that is 5' wide and 8' tall with the weight, the Portland would be better. So in this case would you still use the type S Mortar.
Hi Greg, I went Over three story’s high with half mortar half Portland, never had a problem, just make sure the foundation is good enough and that the stone is tied into whatever is holding it, I hope it helps. , mike
Guess what I’m trying to ask is: for sidewalk painting your way: better to use portland with sand/bonding adhesive or Quickrete stucco that has white sand & put bonding adhesive in it to get more consistent color vs possible darker spots when using portland painted on with a brush? Thank you for your knowledge and patience
Hi Brenda, I don't use stucco mix for resurfacing, that is mostly for up and down work like stucco houses, thanks Mike
Hi Mike, I have large cobblestones edging my driveway, originally the contractor put mortar between each one. Now 7 years later all the mortar is falling out between the stones. I would like to put it back, should I wet it before and what mix to use ? Thanks....Jim..... Love all the videos. You are your own man !!!
Hi Jim, usually when they put cobblestone and lay it in concrete like curbs it all stays together, but if they are laid in sand they move and the mortar falls out, I don't wet it in that case but the idea is not to make a mess of it, thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck thanks mike, you are the real deal... watch you all the time , what I like is you dont screw people over jobs
Very informative!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
thanks, I hope it helps, mike
thank you so much for sharing your knowledge in the trade Mike. Some of the most informative videos on here
thank you I appreciate the comment. mike
Thank you so much for teaching these funadamentals. Appreciate it.
thanks, I appreciate it. mike
Great content. Thanks for sharing your lifetime of experience.
Thanks, mike
I'm a Janitor / Sextant... for a Boston Church with a 5' Stone Wall and a series of steps up to sanctuary entrance. The stone wall has a bit of loose mortar. The side walls for the stairs are also cracking like crazy. When I first started working on the wall - I used premixed cement with some small stones built in. Well - long story short - that was wrong cement - tough to tuck into the cracks and between stones. Now I'm using Portland and sand. 2:1 ratio. I'm getting better at this. Tremendous thanks to Mike Haddock. I feel like I'm a Mike Haddock - Apprentice.
Thanks Fester, I appreciate it, mike
Mike I used premixed s mortar and it is very weak. Crumbles in my hand seems very sandy maybe not enough cement. I didn't see plain s mortar at lowes. I will mix my own next time. When I buy sand is it just brown play sand ? Thanks very much for your help can't wait for my next project !
I have to repair some bricks around a window opening and have to add some additional bricks to the sill. How can I make sure the color of the mortar to match closely from old mortar to new mortar? Sorry if you addressed it in this video or one of your other videos. RUclips has been acting up. Thanks for all of your videos to date!
Anthony Aaron funny you should ask because I am going thru the same thing right now. I am going back Monday and using small artist brushes to paint the joints with a close cement. the owner wasn't happy, but it is a small job so I can fix it in a hour. cement never matches because of the drying time so you got to play with the cement to make it work, I will sure to film it. won't have it ready for a while but artist brushes and a little time will fix it. thanks mike
Hey Mike, great video. Would you tell me why the stucco scratch coat on my house in Florida has horizontal cracks in it? They have not installed the final coat and I want t know how they can repair that before they do. Thanks.
Usually they do a first coat and let it shrink up, shri k cracks are normal, then the second coat covers it, that's the usual procedure, but you could ask, thanks mike
@@MikeHaduck Mike thanks for the reply. I feel better knowing that it won't affect the longevity of the stucco finish.
Appreciate your candor.
Greetings Mike - Thanks for your quick reply. I also have another similar repair to do with my driveway aprons due to rain washout. The question is which bagged mix (since there are so many at HD) would you recommend that could be mixed with water thin enough to flow / be pushed through the 3/4" clear tubing all the way into the voids under the driveway using low pressure from a compressor that would be "best" for this job. Respectfully - Anthony.
Hi Anthony, I never used any bags or pressure my whole career, if it cracked once it will crack again, check out my videos on concrete repair. Thanks Mike
@@MikeHaduck While I appreciate your quick responses - it's clear to me you may not be the right person to answer questions, since no where in my post do I mention "cracked" and the "bags" are what the concrete mix comes in as shown in your videos. As to the "pressure" that was my creative idea to help push the material further into the void to be filled - much like a poly injection under pressure to fill voids/spaces under slab. My 2nd. post was a very simple question to fill voids under concrete that got washed out by rain, of which I'm sure you are familiar? Do you want to try and think outside the box and provide a better answer this time or just give up? Always Respectfully (Have A Great Weekend) 😀
@dmrspec4750 hi dar, with respect, first, I can't give advice unless I was there to see it, 2nd most of these new products I never use because it's overkill and the results i seen don't come out the same as if I did it the old school way, I show the techniques I used over my 50 years of experience and that's it, if my techniques are not adequate then there is no way I can help, but I appreciate it, Mike
@@MikeHaduck LOL
"YOU ARE THE MAN" thank you for your videos; their are still folks out here that are self reliant.
Thanks Thrasher, I appreciate that, mike
Hi Mike, Appreciate your videos. They are very much helpful. I live in Toronto, and I would appreciate if you could please advise me on the type of Portland cement with the most freeze and thaw resistance. I am asking this question cuz I would like to replace my porch`s surface with flagstone. And you may know the seasonal temperature differences in Canada. Thanks once again, and stay safe and healthy.
Hi Mustafa, I have a whole playlist on stone patios, I show what cement I use, thanks, mike
@@MikeHaduck Many thanks Mike for the prompt response. Appreciated. Stay safe and healthy.
6-6-2021 Wow, Mike your videos are great❗️ For block pads for a sidewalk, would it be ok to apply a sealer❓
Home we bought years ago had some 18” sq x 3” thick pads, and I extended the walkway using fast setting for a couple pads. When I purchased the next sack Crete I got the 5,000 psi concrete that took about 5 days to get full strength. They all turned out ok, but I still wasn’t happy with their surface smoothness. I wanted something smooth with less small rocks/ pea gravel. So, for a sidewalk pad size 18” sq. X 3” thick, what would be the mixture needed when using Portland Cement with play sand❓ You said 1 Portland and 2 sands..... Could mix be off some in a dry mix in my form❓ I also, made a flower bed border size 3’ long X 3.5” thick. And a couple being 4’ long ( kind of heavy to move ) and that’s why I shortened my border form. The borders needed to be pink to match brick on house. I thought concrete could be colored with dye, but it didn’t work for me. We had purchased a pink stain, but when it rained and runoff hit those borders, the stain just flaked off. So, I purchased some sealer. Repainted with the stain, letting it dry. Then slapped on the sealer. When it rained again.... presto, it didn’t flake off.
I used both concretes to make 4 borders so far, but I still want them to be smoother. The tops of the borders are curved. I used 3” PVC cut in half and used 1 screw to hold them in place. When putting concrete into those curved areas, there’s always little pockets where concrete didn’t get. And I want to eliminate those gaps. Now, I pretty much have to destroy my form to get the concrete out. I used Vaseline and thinner paste all over those curved areas, and sometimes it’s really hard to get it to release. I’ve also lined the bottom with plastic bag. At ends of each border I add about 8” of parachute cord while concrete is in first stage of setting up. So when putting borders end to end I can tie them together to prevent separation. So after watching your videos, I think your formula of 1 Portland and 2 sands may help. Please provide any feedback or information about my dry fit before adding water. Now, most bags of concrete take 3/4 qt or a little more, but not soupy. Thank you👍🏻 from Central Louisiana 🇺🇸 6-6-2021
Hi David, your weather is a lot more mild, down there there the mix could be little more sand, up here sealers can be slippery because of the frost, your doing the right thing experimenting till you find what works, thanks mike
Hi Mr. Haduck. I’m a big fan and need some advice. I have a home in Southern Utah and we have had a wet winter there is a white powdery substance in my bricks and the edges of my concret patio. It looks like it is causing an edge to deteriorate a bit. Is there anything I can do to stop it or repair the edge so it won’t get worse. House is 5 years old.
Thank you very much.
Randy Payne
Hi Randy, I have a video out called " efflorescence , what is it" Mike haduck. That might help thanks Mike
I came across your video I like the information on cement very helpful but I have one question what kind of cement to use on flower pot an out door aquarium? Portland's or another type ?
Hi Carlos, I got a video out " lime mortar or portland " what should I use? Mike haduck, that might help, thanks Mike
Mike - I have watched most of your videos. I have a question. I live in the Pacific Northwest (PNW) on Whidbey Island. I will be building a fieldstone wall next spring. Our weather here is different than much of the PNW. During the winter, we get 1-2 weeks with temps below freezing and the rest of the time it is 35-40 at night and 40-45 during the day. What type of mortar should I be using for the stone wall?
Hi Gordon, "check out my videos "retaining walls" Mike haduck, I show what I use in each circumstance, thanks Mike
Mike i'm from the UK i am going to lay slabs,do i use sharp sand and cement or play sand and cement?fantastic vid thanks for your tips
Hi mike, every video you’ve posted has been very informative and you inspire me to become a better mason with every job.
I notice your mixing 2 parts sand into almost everything other than rapid set. You’ve even added sand to type s mortar mix,(which has some sand already in it) in the video where you repair steps. I was curious to know what adding the extra sand does to the mix. And why you do it. YOUR feedback (not a “cement scientist’s”) would be much appreciated.
Hi Franco, very hard to explain, every job is different, I did a series years ago called , masonry tips for beginners, I explain all the different types of cement, maybe you seen me adding sand to straight mortar, thanks, mike
I would get a couple old bricks and practice first, If you get a hose and wire brush the cement that is on the brick will clean up the next day, check out my how to do a stone patio on the cleaning part, good luck my opinion, mike
Hlo..so glad i stumbled acroos your videos...im learning so much...thankyou. i have to repoint brickwork in a semi desert area in South Africa should i use cement or mortar please?
Hi Raylene, I have a playlist called, " repointing brick work" Mike haduck, that should help, thanks Mike
Mike, thanks for the fundamentals.
Thanks Luis, Mike
great video. I need to do parging job on the front outside foundation wall, what cement can i use. and is there anything i can add to make the cement waterproof, coz in snow or rain the water seeps down to basement.
kloff tiger check out my video, masonry tips for beginners,, and how I patch up a foundation, and how I repair concrete steps, a patch is a patch and it will always have to be patched again, as long as you remember that you should be fine, thanks mike
Hay Mike,
Your videos are the balls!....Please keep them coming…..Inspiring me to take on my front door steps with stick on fake stones like in your video. My prefab steps have a “Ghetto” look that I want to class up, any words of advice or caution regarding drilling prefab steps for support wire or how to finish sides and top? Can send a pic for reference. I live in northern MA. Thanks for your help!
Mark McD.
I like mixing my own mortar cause I can buy sand better matches whatever was put in originally We can buy brick sand or cement sand Also we can get Missouri River sand or Kansas river sand ks sand has issues and gives alkaline silica reaction in cement. I mostly work on historic buildings My main gig is cement terrazzo repair but after watching your video I'm starting to do more stone and cement repair I'm going start making precast terrazzo steps and cement caps this spring Love your videos
Thanks John, I appreciate the comment, and wish you well, keep going, mike
Hi Mike. Do you never ad gravel to your mix? I have to pour a channel drain with 6" of concrete on each side, 6" deep and all reinforced.Your mix is rich in portland compared to manufacturer's instructions? Any issues with it drying out and cracking?
So Portland can be used for flagstone? What would happen if I used the red bag in that same brand? Great information
Hi O, Portland and masonry sand, not the concrete with rocks in it, thanks Mike
Hello Mr. Mike , I would love your advice. I'm using a large & medium size stainless steal bowls as a mold to make small fire pits. The first fire pit I used a mix mortar it turn out ok, nice. I tried to sand a few high spots I don't thinks there's any such thing as Sanding a little with mortar if you start you can't stop. I would like to know what you would use . Im not putting the fire directly into the pot I have the small cans used for tiki torch in the bottom with wire that fits perfectly across the top then glass that's used for fire I'm told that's all I can be used to put over the wire. I want it to be covered completely the wire works well . I was told I have to use a special glass any other will burst when it's hot or regular stones may burst & turn black. Also can you use a stain that's used on concrete or pots it seals soon as it dries. It is DecoArt Stain. I sure don't want to blow up my fire pits. Thank you I appreciate your time. Lorrie
Mike would certainly know better than me but I have rendered a pizza oven in the past which was subject to extreme heat and I used a 3-1 sharp sand to portland cement with fibre glass chopped strand mixed in and it has held up well 1 year on after numerous firings. I think for your fire pit I would put some gravel in as well. What do you think Mike?
Hello Mike! What do you recommend using to repair a crumbling concrete block home foundation in Minnesota? I am thinking of using Portland and sand for the crumbling parts and elastomeric patch compound for the cracks that are 1/8" or smaller. Can you please recommend a good, concrete gray-colored elastomeric patching compound for this vertical application? Many thanks!
Hi Mary, I got a whole playlist on foundation repair, in that I show what I used in all the different circumstances, I am sure you will find something similar, I hope it helps, Mike
hey mike. I got myself in a pickle. I have an entire stone foundation wall that needs serious repointing. I've done repointing in the past but not to the degree that's needed here. I'm managing to get the pointing done but I'm not sure how to tackle the dusty brown coat or what material to use. Should I use sand topping mix. How do I parge over the stone after I've repointed. I am already going to take a hit on this job so I just need to get it done. The parging I've done in the past was usually on semi flush walls not over uneven stones. Help! The existing brown coat is very unstable but there is no way I can remove all of it.
Love your videos Mike. You do things like my Dad and Uncle used to do. #OLDSCHOOL
Hi Tony, I am just passing along what the old timers taught me, thanks mike
Thanks, Its really amazing how we miss the basics when we are learning.
These videos remind me of the old days when my father and grandfather used to team up to do some job around the house. Dad had been in the building trade in the early 50s and Grandpa learned way back in the 20s. They used to call me over and say 'watch this and learn something'. They hated any fancy quick fix solution that cost a lot of money.
Hey mike, what mixture should I use for a scratch coat for applying stone vaneer? Type S, portlant or a mixture of both with sand?
Excellent advice from Harduck
Thanks Joe, mike
hi mark.i like your video's. l need to know what is scratch coat .brown coat .and finish coat .for stucco..I got some pachup to repair some area.pleàse tell me on each one what kind of sand & cement.shoud I use.on each coat.
thanks again for every thing.
Hi yourik, I am more a mason than a stucco man, I would check out Kirk Giordano, for that, I hope it helps thanks mike
Mike I really appreciate all your years of experience. I am installing a natural rock wall behind a wood stove here in Missouri and wanted to know what type of mix Portland or mortar type s would you use to attach the stones. I am screwing 1" metal tubes to the wall studs and then screwing cement board to the tubes and then mounting a mesh wire to the cement board. I will then use the Portland or type s mortar with the 2 to 1 mix you recommend.
Hi Greg, I have a series out “ how I lay stone veneer” where I show what I use in each case, inside if I am understanding correctly I used S mortar and had no problem, they also make special cements for the stick on stone, I never had a problem with, outside in my area I usually use or add Portland, I hope it helps thanks, Mike
So I am not using stick on stone, just real stone that I have collected from creek beds over time. So if you were doing this behind a wood stove inside a home would you use mortar type s only or mix a little Portland maybe 20% into it.
Hi Greg, I think plain SMortar is fine behind a wood stove, some would disagree, but that is what I always used and never had a problem, I hope it helps thanks, mike
glad it does. thanks mike
Hi Mike, thanks for teaching us about blockwork and concrete and such. I am moving to Panama ( Central America ) I was wondering how to calculate how many bags of portland and sand I would need to build a 30 x 30 building? I would eventually like to skim coat the whole thing but was wondering if you could show us the formula to calculate how much I would need to lay the block and how many rows of blocks I can set in one day? Thanks Mike!
I can't calculate what you would use because every situation and building is different, rods, pilasters, footers, windows, door openings etc, etc, everything matters, is is a hard call, but I will think about it when I do my future videos ,, thanks mike
Hi Mike, I live in long island NYC the weather here is cold, hot muggy. This is my first time using cement. My front house step is made of bricks and the bricks are getting loose. just wondering can i just use Portland cement to fix the loose brick. Do i need to add sand or type S cement. kinda new in this and trying to save money by fixing it my self. can you tell me what the best way of fixing my brick step and what kind of cement i need to buy. Thank you
Mike im thinking about using a 2" layer of rapid set mortar mixed with fibers to overlay some settled pavers in my backyard. What do you think of this type of installation? Would you tackle a project like that? I'm a big fan.
Hi Elias, I could never give advice over the internet but I did do a video called, (Paver repair, How I fix sunken pavers. Mike Haduck) and (How I lay pavers on gravel). maybe that will help. I always try to re-do things before I try a patch. thanks hope it helps, mike
Hi Mike thanks for the video, I am working on a 59 foot wide x 5 foot high stone retaining wall, I have been using 2/1 type s mortar plus one shovel of Portland . Could this wall strength improve by using 2/1 Portland?
Thanks in advance
Whaty about premix mortar? Do wee still need to add sand?
Hi Strob, premix usually has the sand in it, Whatever brand you use check out the directions and you should be fine, thanks mike
What would you use to repoint a clay tile block foundation? What would you use to parge it?
Hi I am repointing an old chimney which was built in the 1800's as modern mortar can sometimes cure too hard and crack old bricks. I found a type O cement recipe mix online, because you cannot buy it, which is 1 part portland, 2 parts masons lime, and 8 parts sand. I did not know if you have worked with older bricks and would have any suggestions or a better mix ratio. As for the climate I live in the upper south part of the US. Thank you
up here in these parts 0 mortar does not last, I use nothing less than s mortar, than seal all the brickwork to keep it out, I would ask the locals, supply and brick yards in your area first what they suggest,, i hope it helps, thanks mike
very informative, very easy to understand, thanks for the lesson.
thanks, mike
Thanks for the video! This is exactly the type of info I wanted to know
Thanks Warren, Mike
glad it helped. thanks mike
What kind of cement do they use for foundations/cellar floors? It seems like much stronger stuff than what we get from home depot.
Hi Mike
Thanks for all your videos. I have a question about mortars. When building a rock retaining wall vs block or brick retaining wall the gaps between the rocks are greater than the gaps in blocks and bricks. On my Type S mortar mix bag it states that it is good for up to 1/2" gap. So, what mortar would you recommend for the larger gaps in a rock wall? Would coarse sand be better then fine sand?
Hi Steve, I have a playlist called Retaining walls (Mike haduck) I show what I use in each situation, I hope it helps, mike