Tusc! Johnny Hardcore here. I knew that was you! Nice side by side comparison and commentary. I appreciate the effort you put into this. I'm still rolling around on a 20yr old B&M Ripper, which I've finally decided I'm over it. Likely going with the MGW. Just haven't hit submit on the order yet. 😉
OP here - I have always driven the MGW in the full-down knob mount location in the past. Having been on a cut-down factory unit for 2-3 years, and then the taller Tick for the past 8 weeks, the very first thing I did was raise the Gripper knob perhaps halfway up the travel distance on the bar. At full down it did take more force than the Tick. At half raised they feel roughly on par. I'll commence to putting some miles on it and come back when done. One of these will be staying in the garage and going on the Z06. The other will find its way to the for sale pages.
I have a 2000 C5, with MN6 and MGW flat stick Shifter, it is also hard like the tick. I rebuilt my transmission, new synchros, etc... but its still hard to shift... i want to do the TMOD shifter linkage upgrade as it still has slop.. but the 'fast' shifting like the mgw in your video maybe its because the TR6060 is better? I dont know... I was VERY dissapointed with my MN6 after rebuild thinking oh maybe its hard cuz of synchros, but with upgraded new ones it still felt hard to shift just no grinding lol...
Very good stuff!. Thanks for the video. I'm not far from you (off RT 67) I would love to have you help me align my used like new $200 MGW. (non Flat Stick) It Shifts fine except for 1st and 2nd gear which takes a little muscle to get in gear. All other gears shift easy,fast and dead on accurate. I'm getting a bit tired of taking the damn console out .... Know what I mean ; ) Thanks Bob.
Tusc! Johnny Hardcore here. I knew that was you! Nice side by side comparison and commentary. I appreciate the effort you put into this. I'm still rolling around on a 20yr old B&M Ripper, which I've finally decided I'm over it. Likely going with the MGW. Just haven't hit submit on the order yet. 😉
OP here - I have always driven the MGW in the full-down knob mount location in the past. Having been on a cut-down factory unit for 2-3 years, and then the taller Tick for the past 8 weeks, the very first thing I did was raise the Gripper knob perhaps halfway up the travel distance on the bar. At full down it did take more force than the Tick. At half raised they feel roughly on par. I'll commence to putting some miles on it and come back when done. One of these will be staying in the garage and going on the Z06. The other will find its way to the for sale pages.
Well what happened the suspense is killing us?
Is the factory bearing/seal replaceable? If so is there a part number you can direct me to?
I have a 2000 C5, with MN6 and MGW flat stick Shifter, it is also hard like the tick. I rebuilt my transmission, new synchros, etc... but its still hard to shift... i want to do the TMOD shifter linkage upgrade as it still has slop.. but the 'fast' shifting like the mgw in your video maybe its because the TR6060 is better? I dont know... I was VERY dissapointed with my MN6 after rebuild thinking oh maybe its hard cuz of synchros, but with upgraded new ones it still felt hard to shift just no grinding lol...
Very good stuff!. Thanks for the video. I'm not far from you (off RT 67) I would love to have you help me align my used like new $200 MGW. (non Flat Stick) It Shifts fine except for 1st and 2nd gear which takes a little muscle to get in gear. All other gears shift easy,fast and dead on accurate. I'm getting a bit tired of taking the damn console out .... Know what I mean ; ) Thanks Bob.