hi thanks for watching, since this video was made I now have all my tanks cleaned, my lower tank near my shed is filled with water from the shed roof, I then pump that water to the upper 2 tanks. Plenty of water in the tanks now, about 75,000 litres ( 20,000 US gallons)
Fellow pom, had a similar setup (rusty used trailer) with a 1000 liter IBC, the trailer failed/folded at the A frame part & one ton of water slid forward crushing my leg, lucky there was two of us & we managed to drain the water & free my leg, very scary moment in my life.
Hi, thanks for watching. A couple of comments about the trailer not been suitable, makes me think twice. I do plan to upgrade the trailer but other priorities first, until then I need to be extra careful. Thanks for your info. Where you from in the Uk ? I’m from Hull.
@@TheRuralProject Newport Pagnell (of Aston Martin fame) Yeah soon as i saw your trailer it reminded me when i was riding on the back down the paddock, the A frame folded & the IBC slid forward trapping my leg, we was only going 5kmh.
Hi, thanks for watching. Have you been through all the videos in the playlist ? There’s already quite a bit of detail. In the future I plan to change the trailer to twin axle ( short wheel base though ) or add some jack stands so that it can be used with out being connected to the car. I will video all of that which might entail replumbing the whole trailer.
@@TheRuralProject good idea the single axle is a bit light to carry 1 ton of water plus pump hose and hand tools. The recirc back to the tank should have an pressure relief valve set to blow off at 5 to 10 psi below the pump's shut off head. This can be a 1/2 inch valve since it is just to keep the pump from over heating and burning up the shaft seals. The Pump should be at least a 2 stage unit producing 197 ft head. To support a hose lay to some distance out or up hills. For instance mini Stryker, (wajax) BE 2 stage with 6.5 HP Honda Or Frontier $$$$ from WFR fire systems. Consider a forest foam injector AFTER the pump ( F S fire standard is on the suction side but that will fill your plastic tote tank with relieved return foam and shut down your pump PDQ) then you will absolutely need a 2 or 3(Wajax Mark 3 or Frontier) stage pump to handle the injector loss but your water will go 2 or 3 x as far. Note that you need injector plus an air entrained FS foam nozzle. The foam nozzles are usually off longer than they are on since a little bit of foam will do it, so get a really good relief valve possibly adjustable Clayton or Singer or equal PRV valve $$$$. Pro crews love the industrial play nozzles but $$$, there are now some pro level combo purpose fire play nozzles that do both water and foam. Plan to carry some tools: shovel, forest fire fighter's pulaski, power saw, spare fuel, lengths of FS hose for hose lay from pond to fire if possible. Weight mounts up fast. If you are rumbling your trailer across an outback 4x4 road or Tasi definitely think about securing the water tank with springs holding it down to avoid splitting the tank, and lower the tank height or risk rolling the rig. Hope this helps Thanks to Aus for sending the 30 man management team our guys are just about tired out and there were 300 fires of note in BC this week. Be Fire Smart.
@@Morgan2XL thank you so much for all the very useful info. Really great info. We are still sliding through mud at the moment ( Australian winter ), but once it warms up I have a few tests I’d like to do. Agree about needing to add some tool. I’m real pleased that I built the trailer but there’s plenty of room for improvement. Luckily I’m still not living at my land, (. No house yet) so no rush to have everything perfect just yet. Best of luck with the bushfires, very scary.
You all prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I was dumb lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me
Its early September 2023 and, with the threat of a dangerous summer fire season in Australia (after the Northern Hemisphere fires mid-year), I'm looking-into replacing my initial budget (interim) fire-Fighting trailer - which consisted of a quadbike/mower towed mini 12v crop-spraying trailer. - note - my property is only 1.5 acres mostly un-treed . . with derelict dirt road backing on (firebreak). Projected upgrade is based on a 4 X 3 MULTISPORT TRAILER 4'x3.5' Capacity 505kg ATM, 400+kg Payload Bed Size 1220mm x 1016mm (formerly named 830TA) distributed as a kit build. On this tanks, pumps, and hoses (plus accessaries) will be mounted (taking note of load mass limitations). Have not yet decided whether existing 1220mm x 1016mm aluminium tread-plate panel will be used, or just bare trailer frame! (I'm favoring THIS separate dedicated trailer over just a tank & pump skid design.) My tow vehicle is a 22hp rideOn mower (having a locking diff switch) with 50mm towball, and 12v outlet. A rider protective mower "roof" may be a addition here (wary of embers) as 22hp mower has four plug-in panel sockets around operator similar to what are found on a John Deere model!
Hi John, thanks for watching, it sounds like you have things all planned out. I like the idea of a trailer more than a skid mount, it just feels like there are more options with a trailer. If your land is hilly make sure the tow vehicle won't get pushed by the trailer. Don't forget the option of a "grass watering" type 360 deg fine mist sprinkler head that can be added to the pump, that can create a dome of sprinkler water over the trailer and help to keep things cool if close to the fire and protect hoses on the trailer from embers. Just a thought. I plan to improve my trailer this year too, mainly strengthening the frame and A frame, lots of advice on here about the frame being too weak for a full IBC ..... which it is, and the dangers if it fails. Good luck and I hope you waste your time building it and never have to use it in a dangerous situation. 😊👍🏻
Picked up a Ford 1/2 ton trailer someone put dual axles on, had to customize & reinforce. Have a 2 inch, 158 GPH pump with 1/12 " fire hose outlet & 3 garden hose outlets, one for bypass. 2 -50 ft. 1/12" hoses, multiple garden hoses, 425 gal. tank in bed & 50 gallon plastic barrel on tongue. Have a good fire break, had a 30,000 acre fire last year within 2 miles & was only one that didn't evacuate.
Hi, thanks for watching. Sounds like a great set up. My land has some tight spots, hence my small trailer, but I’d prefer a dual axle if I had the room. Make sure you can connect the hoses to make a 100 ft hose, if needed. I hope you never have to use your fire fighting trailer. I’ll be releasing a video soon that gives the history of my land and shows the effect of fires that passed through in 2014.
@@TheRuralProject My 2 - 50 footers connect, currently updating back up nozzles etc. Have a 425 Gallon, 2- 275 gallon & others for total of about 2000 gallons around cabin & property. . 40,000 acre fire burned thru my 40 acres in 2012 & I wasn't near as equipped as now, stayed & fought it & my firebreak saved me. Got fire retardant dropped on me by plane. Catching your pants on fire is a great motivator for preparedness!
Had another fire rage thru my 40 acres, July 8th. Got all my 40 acres except firebreak, that & my gear saved me. There's some short videos on BullMtn. Billy of fire & my rescue dog..2 versions of some, because came up with out comments, think because I called the fire a bitch & mentioned killing looters.
@@BullMtnBilly-vm1wf hi, I’ve just seen this comment, you tube didn’t show it until now. Really glad you are ok. Scary stuff I bet. Great preparation pays off. Stay safe. I’ll check out the video.
I would hate to be fiddling with those nozzles on the end of those hoses for that long .. I would prefer a handle which when forward was "on" and when back "off", is there something like that available ?
Hi, thanks for watching. Absolutely there are nozzles like that. Big lever to open and close the water flow and a twist nozzle to adjust the water spray. Much better than I have but a lot more expensive.
Thanks for watching. I hope I never have to use it. I’ve been doing some welding “in the field” and it’s been good to have that on hand, close by, just in case.
absolutely true of most green deciduous trees, but gum trees in Australia contain highly flammable oil in the leaves and that allows them to burst into flames, it looks like an explosion. The eucalyptus trees also shed bark, leaves and branches in summer, even if you water them, that creates fuel for fire on the floor (unless you continually tidy up). People are creating fire breaks with deciduous trees, the green leaves don't burn well and take heat out of the fire as it passes through, as you said. Thanks for watching.
Hi, thanks for watching. For me, I got it from Facebook Marketplace. A guy sells loads of them, all used and failed an inspection, they maybe have a few leaks on the swivel joint, and its cheaper to replace than repair. The hoses are fine and I can live with the leak. You can get them new from Fire Industry Supplies, they are great to deal with.
Thanks for watching. Good point, because its usually the hot and windy days when the bushfires hit. It would be interesting to see how the wide spray works in a strong wind, I think the jet will be fine.
Hi, the hoses are standard fire fighter hose reel 19mm i/d. I bought 2nd hand hoses and reels, the swivel joints drip a little (making them no suitable for a factory or office) but that's no issue for me. One brass nozzle is a straight jet nozzle with on / off ball valve, the other brass nozzle is a firefighting twist nozzle, with a jet and wide spray setting, this was from a local hardware shop, nothing branded. I'm sure I show them up close in one of the videos. thanks for watching
HI there, id like to know more on how you suck water from the dam to fill the IBC? The video seem to skim over it but perhaps i didn't understand and missed the detail. Are you swapping the hose attached to the IBC for a hose to throw into the Dam?
Hi, thanks for watching. I disconnect the pump from the ibc. I have a separate suction hose with a foot valve ( one way valve ) and screen on the end. I drop that in the dam and connect it to the inlet port of the pump then pump into the tank. Just don’t forget to close the ibc outlet valve.
Hi, thanks for watching. My hose on the reel is 19mm, I think that’s standard for that type of fire hose. It will all still work, you will of course just restrict the flow. as mine is linked to the water container 19mm is just fine. I do have larger hoses that I would use if the pump was pulling from the dam.
@@TheRuralProject thanks mate. I am kitting out my rusty old farm ute a 1965 Nissan Patrol G60 4x4 Ute, I Can fit 2 x 1000L IBC on the tray. Plan to fit one of the 36m 19mm hose reels to it. The pump is just a cheap 8HP one. What your thoughts mate, keen for any feedback.
I know the G60 is a tough rig, but not sure of it’s load carrying. I’d guess it would struggle with 1 ibc full of water. Each 1000 litre ibc weighs 1000kg, 1 tonne, when full. I think you’d get a lot of rear end sag with 1 ibc. I’d guess it should only be loaded with 500kg. Better to have something rather than nothing, that’s my approach, so give it a try. I find mine useful for all sorts, watering new trees, safety when welding in the bush and of course bush fire safety.
Nice. I hope the build goes well. I’ve a few videos on the fire pump and trailer set up on my channel, check out the playlist. Hopefully they help. Best of luck.
Does it have a valve that you open to put the water back in the tank ( when it’s recirculating) or how does that work? I’m making something similar but not sure how to do this part so the pump won’t burn up. Thanks
Hi, not sure which of the videos shows it, but yes there is the facility to recirculate water, I defiantly mention it in one of the videos. I connect a pipe to the quick connect which points vertically and pipe that back into the tank. The two side quick connects are then closed. This allows the pumps to run on idle, circulating water so it doesn’t damage the impellers and its fully primed ready to go. I have a playlist for the pump, have a look through it. Cheers
@@leinaddranyam4378 Just use a FS style firepump relief valve 1/ 2" dia irrigation supply store relief valve set 5 psi below the pump shut off head, plumb into the outlet.
Will depend on what kind of pump you have, I'm using a semi trash pump which tops out at 45 PSI. It needs water to continue moving if it's going to run for very long but you can still turn off the nozzle you just don't want to leave the nozzle off for more than say 30 seconds if you can avoid it. The water movement is only needed to keep the pump from overheating so I am running just a regular garden hose back into the top of the tank with a valve so I can control the flow to the tank and my plan is to just leave it open about a quarter of the way all the time so it doesn't much affect the pressure of the fire hose but maintains a small amount of water flow that will be sufficient to keep the pump from getting too hot. I have ran my pump on very little water flow out of the nozzle where it was building lots of pressure and couldn't detect any noticeable warming of the housing or water going through the pump. So if you are firing it up and using it right away no issue, where you run into issue would be if you wanted to fire it up and keep it idling in anticipation of using it
Agree, I plan to modify this scrappy trailer this Aussie summer, strengthen it and add another set of wheels. It would be able to have 2 totes but I’d only have one. My land is too steep to be driving around with over 2000kg behind the car and no brakes on the trailer. If the land was flat I would do that. Thanks for watching.
Whilst I encourage preparation, fire fighting is dangerous. I am a professional with 15 years of wildfire experience. Every decent fire throws curved balls. This would be ok on flat small fires. Trailers can be a liability if an escape is needed. The IBC full of water is 1000kgs the trailer would he lucky to have a capacity of 600kgs when brand new. Those old quell reals break near the swivel if they are used for anything other than office fires and the nozzles tend to blow off when needed most. The drawbar is not designed for the load of the pump. The reason that I am saying this is to make sure those who copy this with little experience don’t end up in a world of trouble. I admire your efforts.
Hi. Thanks for watching. Really appreciate the feedback. The trailer is trashed, I agree, it has been strengthened where needed, but it’s rough as. Fully agree, I’m no firefighter and my plan is to get out if I can. I’ve also received some great advice, in addition to yours, which I will put to good use when the time is right ( I don’t live at the land yet). Until then, this is far better than nothing and when I’m welding outside or having burn offs, it’s good to have a fire pump close by, even if it’s not the most reliable. I’d rather have this than a 15ltr back pack pump action.
Hi Robert, thanks for watching. That trailer is not rated for that load (with the tank full there will be 1000kgs of water plus another 50kg of hoses etc.) and thus I wouldn't take it on the road, but its fine for around my place for now. I have plans to upgrade in the future, dual axle with brakes will be the go, until then, cheap and cheerful, operated carefully.
@@TheRuralProject thanks for the reply mate as I'm looking at building a cheap trailer unit just need to sell my old car first Then buy a 6x4 trailer and get a 1000 litre ibc tank but mark it at say 400-500 litres the pump im getting only weighs 26 kgs but I'll be going with a lay flat hose without a reel
I think a normal 6x4 is rated at 750kg loading, so you should be fine as you suggested. Think about dual axle so you can unhook it whilst loaded and be certain it won't tip. My tank is set up to always have ball weight, but I did unhook it from the car once on a slight slope and it tipped on end. Once it starts to go there's no stopping it, the water moves and the centre of gravity quickly changes. but its a lot more money for dual axle and not many small dual axle trailer around.
@@TheRuralProject I'll be getting a jockey wheel fitted with the trailer plus where I am is 100 % flat ground in rural South East South Australia so it will be easy to park and unhitch If I had an extra 10-15k I'd go for a dual axle trailer and already kitted 400 litre farm unit so for now a basic DIY is all I can work with
Nice setup! Especially with the Fire season approaching!
Thanks, it’s cheap and not exactly pretty, but it’s effective. I’ll be making changes to it at the end of summer.
Awesome!
Would be great to be able to bring more of those containers full of water to top up the tank with the hose
hi thanks for watching, since this video was made I now have all my tanks cleaned, my lower tank near my shed is filled with water from the shed roof, I then pump that water to the upper 2 tanks. Plenty of water in the tanks now, about 75,000 litres ( 20,000 US gallons)
Fellow pom, had a similar setup (rusty used trailer) with a 1000 liter IBC, the trailer failed/folded at the A frame part & one ton of water slid forward crushing my leg, lucky there was two of us & we managed to drain the water & free my leg, very scary moment in my life.
Hi, thanks for watching. A couple of comments about the trailer not been suitable, makes me think twice. I do plan to upgrade the trailer but other priorities first, until then I need to be extra careful. Thanks for your info.
Where you from in the Uk ? I’m from Hull.
@@TheRuralProject Newport Pagnell (of Aston Martin fame) Yeah soon as i saw your trailer it reminded me when i was riding on the back down the paddock, the A frame folded & the IBC slid forward trapping my leg, we was only going 5kmh.
Maybe in the future, could you do a step by step build for us novices? Great setup. Cheers
Hi, thanks for watching. Have you been through all the videos in the playlist ? There’s already quite a bit of detail.
In the future I plan to change the trailer to twin axle ( short wheel base though ) or add some jack stands so that it can be used with out being connected to the car. I will video all of that which might entail replumbing the whole trailer.
@@TheRuralProject good idea the single axle is a bit light to carry 1 ton of water plus pump hose and hand tools. The recirc back to the tank should have an pressure relief valve set to blow off at 5 to 10 psi below the pump's shut off head. This can be a 1/2 inch valve since it is just to keep the pump from over heating and burning up the shaft seals.
The Pump should be at least a 2 stage unit producing 197 ft head. To support a hose lay to some distance out or up hills. For instance mini Stryker, (wajax) BE 2 stage with 6.5 HP Honda
Or Frontier $$$$ from WFR fire systems.
Consider a forest foam injector AFTER the pump ( F S fire standard is on the suction side but that will fill your plastic tote tank with relieved return foam and shut down your pump PDQ) then you will absolutely need a 2 or 3(Wajax Mark 3 or Frontier) stage pump to handle the injector loss but your water will go 2 or 3 x as far. Note that you need injector plus an air entrained FS foam nozzle.
The foam nozzles are usually off longer than they are on since a little bit of foam will do it, so get a really good relief valve possibly adjustable Clayton or Singer or equal PRV valve $$$$.
Pro crews love the industrial play nozzles but $$$, there are now some pro level combo purpose fire play nozzles that do both water and foam.
Plan to carry some tools: shovel, forest fire fighter's pulaski, power saw, spare fuel, lengths of FS hose for hose lay from pond to fire if possible. Weight mounts up fast.
If you are rumbling your trailer across an outback 4x4 road or Tasi definitely think about securing the water tank with springs holding it down to avoid splitting the tank, and lower the tank height or risk rolling the rig.
Hope this helps
Thanks to Aus for sending the 30 man management team our guys are just about tired out and there were 300 fires of note in BC this week. Be Fire Smart.
@@Morgan2XL thank you so much for all the very useful info. Really great info. We are still sliding through mud at the moment ( Australian winter ), but once it warms up I have a few tests I’d like to do. Agree about needing to add some tool. I’m real pleased that I built the trailer but there’s plenty of room for improvement.
Luckily I’m still not living at my land, (. No house yet) so no rush to have everything perfect just yet.
Best of luck with the bushfires, very scary.
You all prolly dont give a damn but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I was dumb lost the login password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Cruz Marco Instablaster ;)
Its early September 2023 and, with the threat of a dangerous summer fire season in Australia (after the Northern Hemisphere fires mid-year), I'm looking-into replacing my initial budget (interim) fire-Fighting trailer - which consisted of a quadbike/mower towed mini 12v crop-spraying trailer.
- note - my property is only 1.5 acres mostly un-treed . . with derelict dirt road backing on (firebreak).
Projected upgrade is based on a
4 X 3 MULTISPORT TRAILER 4'x3.5'
Capacity 505kg ATM, 400+kg Payload
Bed Size 1220mm x 1016mm (formerly named 830TA) distributed as a kit build.
On this tanks, pumps, and hoses (plus accessaries) will be mounted (taking note of load mass limitations). Have not yet decided whether existing 1220mm x 1016mm aluminium tread-plate panel will be used, or just bare trailer frame! (I'm favoring THIS separate dedicated trailer over just a tank & pump skid design.)
My tow vehicle is a 22hp rideOn mower (having a locking diff switch) with 50mm towball, and 12v outlet. A rider protective mower "roof" may be a addition here (wary of embers) as 22hp mower has four plug-in panel sockets around operator similar to what are found on a John Deere model!
Hi John, thanks for watching, it sounds like you have things all planned out. I like the idea of a trailer more than a skid mount, it just feels like there are more options with a trailer. If your land is hilly make sure the tow vehicle won't get pushed by the trailer. Don't forget the option of a "grass watering" type 360 deg fine mist sprinkler head that can be added to the pump, that can create a dome of sprinkler water over the trailer and help to keep things cool if close to the fire and protect hoses on the trailer from embers. Just a thought.
I plan to improve my trailer this year too, mainly strengthening the frame and A frame, lots of advice on here about the frame being too weak for a full IBC ..... which it is, and the dangers if it fails.
Good luck and I hope you waste your time building it and never have to use it in a dangerous situation. 😊👍🏻
Picked up a Ford 1/2 ton trailer someone put dual axles on, had to customize & reinforce. Have a 2 inch, 158 GPH pump with 1/12 " fire hose outlet & 3 garden hose outlets, one for bypass. 2 -50 ft. 1/12" hoses, multiple garden hoses, 425 gal. tank in bed & 50 gallon plastic barrel on tongue. Have a good fire break, had a 30,000 acre fire last year within 2 miles & was only one that didn't evacuate.
Hi, thanks for watching. Sounds like a great set up. My land has some tight spots, hence my small trailer, but I’d prefer a dual axle if I had the room. Make sure you can connect the hoses to make a 100 ft hose, if needed.
I hope you never have to use your fire fighting trailer. I’ll be releasing a video soon that gives the history of my land and shows the effect of fires that passed through in 2014.
@@TheRuralProject My 2 - 50 footers connect, currently updating back up nozzles etc. Have a 425 Gallon, 2- 275 gallon & others for total of about 2000 gallons around cabin & property. . 40,000 acre fire burned thru my 40 acres in 2012 & I wasn't near as equipped as now, stayed & fought it & my firebreak saved me. Got fire retardant dropped on me by plane. Catching your pants on fire is a great motivator for preparedness!
@@BullMtnBilly-vm1wf and wool fire suite!!
Had another fire rage thru my 40 acres, July 8th. Got all my 40 acres except firebreak, that & my gear saved me. There's some short videos on BullMtn. Billy of fire & my rescue dog..2 versions of some, because came up with out comments, think because I called the fire a bitch & mentioned killing looters.
@@BullMtnBilly-vm1wf hi, I’ve just seen this comment, you tube didn’t show it until now. Really glad you are ok. Scary stuff I bet. Great preparation pays off. Stay safe. I’ll check out the video.
I would hate to be fiddling with those nozzles on the end of those hoses for that long .. I would prefer a handle which when forward was "on" and when back "off", is there something like that available ?
Hi, thanks for watching. Absolutely there are nozzles like that. Big lever to open and close the water flow and a twist nozzle to adjust the water spray. Much better than I have but a lot more expensive.
Hi, thankyou for sharing and responding. Cost is an important factor.
Good cheap set up
Thanks for watching. I hope I never have to use it. I’ve been doing some welding “in the field” and it’s been good to have that on hand, close by, just in case.
The key is to water the individual trees during the dry season, trees that are full of water/sap will not burst into flame
absolutely true of most green deciduous trees, but gum trees in Australia contain highly flammable oil in the leaves and that allows them to burst into flames, it looks like an explosion. The eucalyptus trees also shed bark, leaves and branches in summer, even if you water them, that creates fuel for fire on the floor (unless you continually tidy up). People are creating fire breaks with deciduous trees, the green leaves don't burn well and take heat out of the fire as it passes through, as you said. Thanks for watching.
Where do you Aussie's get those type of hose reels?
Hi, thanks for watching. For me, I got it from Facebook Marketplace. A guy sells loads of them, all used and failed an inspection, they maybe have a few leaks on the swivel joint, and its cheaper to replace than repair. The hoses are fine and I can live with the leak. You can get them new from Fire Industry Supplies, they are great to deal with.
Looks really good, now try it on a hot windy AF summers day and see how effective it is
Thanks for watching. Good point, because its usually the hot and windy days when the bushfires hit. It would be interesting to see how the wide spray works in a strong wind, I think the jet will be fine.
What kind of hose and nozzle are on this trailer
Hi, the hoses are standard fire fighter hose reel 19mm i/d. I bought 2nd hand hoses and reels, the swivel joints drip a little (making them no suitable for a factory or office) but that's no issue for me. One brass nozzle is a straight jet nozzle with on / off ball valve, the other brass nozzle is a firefighting twist nozzle, with a jet and wide spray setting, this was from a local hardware shop, nothing branded. I'm sure I show them up close in one of the videos. thanks for watching
HI there, id like to know more on how you suck water from the dam to fill the IBC? The video seem to skim over it but perhaps i didn't understand and missed the detail. Are you swapping the hose attached to the IBC for a hose to throw into the Dam?
Hi, thanks for watching. I disconnect the pump from the ibc. I have a separate suction hose with a foot valve ( one way valve ) and screen on the end. I drop that in the dam and connect it to the inlet port of the pump then pump into the tank. Just don’t forget to close the ibc outlet valve.
what size is the hose on the Reel ? Im looking at a 19mm hose on a reel for mine, my pump is a 2" outlet, will 19mm hose be to small ?
Hi, thanks for watching. My hose on the reel is 19mm, I think that’s standard for that type of fire hose. It will all still work, you will of course just restrict the flow. as mine is linked to the water container 19mm is just fine.
I do have larger hoses that I would use if the pump was pulling from the dam.
@@TheRuralProject thanks mate. I am kitting out my rusty old farm ute a 1965 Nissan Patrol G60 4x4 Ute, I Can fit 2 x 1000L IBC on the tray. Plan to fit one of the 36m 19mm hose reels to it. The pump is just a cheap 8HP one. What your thoughts mate, keen for any feedback.
I know the G60 is a tough rig, but not sure of it’s load carrying. I’d guess it would struggle with 1 ibc full of water. Each 1000 litre ibc weighs 1000kg, 1 tonne, when full. I think you’d get a lot of rear end sag with 1 ibc. I’d guess it should only be loaded with 500kg.
Better to have something rather than nothing, that’s my approach, so give it a try.
I find mine useful for all sorts, watering new trees, safety when welding in the bush and of course bush fire safety.
I’ve just come across this channel, but this is awesome!
Glad you enjoy it!
I bought a trailer on gumtree to build a setup similar to this
Nice. I hope the build goes well. I’ve a few videos on the fire pump and trailer set up on my channel, check out the playlist. Hopefully they help. Best of luck.
Does it have a valve that you open to put the water back in the tank ( when it’s recirculating) or how does that work? I’m making something similar but not sure how to do this part so the pump won’t burn up. Thanks
Hi, not sure which of the videos shows it, but yes there is the facility to recirculate water, I defiantly mention it in one of the videos. I connect a pipe to the quick connect which points vertically and pipe that back into the tank. The two side quick connects are then closed. This allows the pumps to run on idle, circulating water so it doesn’t damage the impellers and its fully primed ready to go. I have a playlist for the pump, have a look through it. Cheers
Ok I will do that thank you
@@leinaddranyam4378 Just use a FS style firepump relief valve 1/ 2" dia irrigation supply store relief valve set 5 psi below the pump shut off head, plumb into the outlet.
Will depend on what kind of pump you have, I'm using a semi trash pump which tops out at 45 PSI. It needs water to continue moving if it's going to run for very long but you can still turn off the nozzle you just don't want to leave the nozzle off for more than say 30 seconds if you can avoid it. The water movement is only needed to keep the pump from overheating so I am running just a regular garden hose back into the top of the tank with a valve so I can control the flow to the tank and my plan is to just leave it open about a quarter of the way all the time so it doesn't much affect the pressure of the fire hose but maintains a small amount of water flow that will be sufficient to keep the pump from getting too hot. I have ran my pump on very little water flow out of the nozzle where it was building lots of pressure and couldn't detect any noticeable warming of the housing or water going through the pump. So if you are firing it up and using it right away no issue, where you run into issue would be if you wanted to fire it up and keep it idling in anticipation of using it
Better set up with 2 totes on a tandem trailer
Agree, I plan to modify this scrappy trailer this Aussie summer, strengthen it and add another set of wheels. It would be able to have 2 totes but I’d only have one. My land is too steep to be driving around with over 2000kg behind the car and no brakes on the trailer. If the land was flat I would do that. Thanks for watching.
Whilst I encourage preparation, fire fighting is dangerous. I am a professional with 15 years of wildfire experience. Every decent fire throws curved balls. This would be ok on flat small fires. Trailers can be a liability if an escape is needed. The IBC full of water is 1000kgs the trailer would he lucky to have a capacity of 600kgs when brand new. Those old quell reals break near the swivel if they are used for anything other than office fires and the nozzles tend to blow off when needed most. The drawbar is not designed for the load of the pump.
The reason that I am saying this is to make sure those who copy this with little experience don’t end up in a world of trouble.
I admire your efforts.
Hi. Thanks for watching. Really appreciate the feedback. The trailer is trashed, I agree, it has been strengthened where needed, but it’s rough as. Fully agree, I’m no firefighter and my plan is to get out if I can. I’ve also received some great advice, in addition to yours, which I will put to good use when the time is right ( I don’t live at the land yet).
Until then, this is far better than nothing and when I’m welding outside or having burn offs, it’s good to have a fire pump close by, even if it’s not the most reliable. I’d rather have this than a 15ltr back pack pump action.
What is the size of your trailer and the total GVM
Hi Robert, thanks for watching. That trailer is not rated for that load (with the tank full there will be 1000kgs of water plus another 50kg of hoses etc.) and thus I wouldn't take it on the road, but its fine for around my place for now. I have plans to upgrade in the future, dual axle with brakes will be the go, until then, cheap and cheerful, operated carefully.
@@TheRuralProject thanks for the reply mate as I'm looking at building a cheap trailer unit just need to sell my old car first
Then buy a 6x4 trailer and get a 1000 litre ibc tank but mark it at say 400-500 litres the pump im getting only weighs 26 kgs but I'll be going with a lay flat hose without a reel
I think a normal 6x4 is rated at 750kg loading, so you should be fine as you suggested. Think about dual axle so you can unhook it whilst loaded and be certain it won't tip. My tank is set up to always have ball weight, but I did unhook it from the car once on a slight slope and it tipped on end. Once it starts to go there's no stopping it, the water moves and the centre of gravity quickly changes. but its a lot more money for dual axle and not many small dual axle trailer around.
@@TheRuralProject I'll be getting a jockey wheel fitted with the trailer plus where I am is 100 % flat ground in rural South East South Australia so it will be easy to park and unhitch
If I had an extra 10-15k I'd go for a dual axle trailer and already kitted 400 litre farm unit so for now a basic DIY is all I can work with
@@robbiestewart1984 I hear you, it’s a lot of extra money. Best of luck with the build. I hope you never need to use it in an emergency.