Nice trailer! I find that to make the Camlock fittings easier to close, take the washer out and sand off a touch making the washer thinner, allowing the bails to close a bit easier. Slightly more permanent solution, although WD40 does work magic. Thanks for making this video!
When you are on fog spray the pressure is greatly reduced, you will also notice a rush of air coming from behind you. On straight stream is when you'll feel the full pressure. From my volunteering fire fighting days the old adage using a nozzle "Right for fight (straight stream), left for life (fog pattern)" The straight stream can be used to knock apart the fire and at some distance. The fog pattern can be very useful in dousing a fire as the millions of tiny droplets of water better dissipates heat than straight stream, the downside is that you are closer to the flames. In house fires we used to use the fog pattern out of a window and the wind rush would suck the smoke out of the room and cool us off to some degree. Now my volunteering is Coast Guard, we use the exact same Honda pump for de-watering. I estimate that the pump puts out about 45-50 psi, about half of what we used in FF days. The friction loss of the cotton jacketed hose you're using is approximately 4psi per length of hose and per story (10ft) of rise. By the way, if I witness any of my crew leave the nozzle (of even open hose) unattended when the pump is running (or about to) or a running pump unattended there will be hell to pay. An aluminum coupling of a brass nozzle shooting around can be deadly. Given your situation i would suggest tying or the open hose end so that it won't flop around as dangerously. Congrats on a good build, I hope you never have to use it for it's intended purpose.
Grant, thanks so much for the info. Really appreciated. I also hope I don’t ever need it, but the previous house on the land was lost to bushfires in 2014, I’ve cleared a lot of the land ( previous house was IN the Forrest) around the house location as a firebreak, but I’d just rather not have to test my trailer or firebreak. When the house gets built, later this year hopefully, I’ll add some fire suppression to the roof and surrounding area. Thanks again for your comments.
@@TheRuralProject One other thing I suggest, if you haven't already got one, is a foot valve for the suction hose. If you're not familiar it's a one way valve on the end of the hose (many come with strainers) it will prevent the water in pump draining back into the dam when pump is shut down. It can also be used to back prime the pump in a jiffy. You should be able to find one for about 40-50 Koala dollars Also in an earlier video I saw you unscrew the priming cap when pump was running. You were lucky that the pump wasn't primed at the time as water will flow in by the easiest route (priming port). Don't ask me how I know, suffice to say Lake Ontario water does not taste that "great".
@@ccga3359 yep, the suction hose has a foot valve. How do you use it to prime the pump ? Simply lift the hose to fill the pump and drop it back in the water quickly once you hear the change in tone from the pump / impeller. ?
@@TheRuralProject That's correct. Attach a line (remember I'm working on a small boat so anything that goes over the side is lost forever unless attached somehow, lol) to the pump end of the suction, throw the hose into the water and drag back, attach to pump and tip pump. It only takes half litre or so to prime these pumps. Alternately with hose already attached thrust the end repeatedly in the water. With each thrust the hose will take on more water until it fills the impeller. Also add a small float near the end to keep foot valve off of the bottom. The mud and crap will quickly damage the pumps internals, anything that gets through will otherwise start clogging the nozzle, which is not a good thing in a fire scenario. Oh and come on, paint the trailer red!
As a suggestion I think that the pump to feel hose could have done with a trim and tied to the tank cage to avoid snagging on things that might rip it of and cause damage and less distance for the pump to push the water to the reel
Hi thanks for watching and your suggestion. Fully agree with securing the hose back to the trailer to prevent snagging whilst driving. I've purposely left the hose longer than needed, so I have a bit of flexibility if I want to take the pump off the trailer (suction from dam) and still use the fire hose, I know that will effect efficiency slightly, but only a small amount.
I’ve found I need to soften the bigger pipe, I’ve tried wd40 lubricating oil without luck. Usually works but this pipe needs heat to soften it Thanks for watching.
Nice looking upgrade mate a big setup from video 5 I've just finished putting together my earlier mentioned fire trailer and went through 2 different variations of hose from tank to pump before I got the perfect fit of which is basic black fire hose fitted with nut/tail fittings that screw directly onto 3/4'' inch fittings on both the tank outlet and pump inlet Instead of a heavy 4.5 or 8 hp pump I've opted to use a 4 stroke 43cc 1.7 hp fire pump that also has 1 inch inlet and outlets I have found that a 1.7 hp pump gives out more pressure through a fire hose in comparison to a higher hp pump although I'm retaining the 8hp for open supply refills from water source right to tank
Hi Robert, thanks for comments. Glad you have finished your fire trailer. I have to say that I have found that pumps do not vary ( at the nozzle, and to the eye) that much either for normal operation, it’s when you use the pump at extremes ( full hose lengths or steep uphill) that you really notice the performance difference. Lucky mine has had a life of carting water to allow plant watering for the past 2 years. Busy with firewood at the moment, but during next summer I will do some work to strengthen the trailer and draw bar, maybe add another axle too. Thanks for watching and I hope you never have to use your fire trailer to fight a fire.
@@TheRuralProject all good it took alot time and patience to get it perfected it's also an official registered fire trailer with the cfs now just waiting on my id sticker Have spent about close to nearly 2 1/2 grand in putting it together that excludes the trailer itself but includes both pumps, fittings,tank-pump hose,tank as well With the la nina we're currently experiencing moment due to peter out late January here in SA and a return to hot weather in February this trailer unit will come in handy
@@TheRuralProject basically by registering it as a fire trailer with cfs this puts me under their banner of cover for injury and damage thus also I have to follow their SOPs on the fire ground Where I am is basically surrounded by farm land and pine plantations on either side so in a fire emergency my town can come under threat fairly quickly if the weather conditions are ideal for rapid fire development By having the trailer recognised as a resource it allows me the flexibility of having it for both personal use and life saving resource
thanks, as you'll see it not that complex and mine is not that pretty, but its cheap and effective. Keep an eye out for a cheap trailer, they do come up. Good luck.
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching, glad the vid was of some use. I paid about $400 ish a few years ago. I got it from Fire Industry Supplies in Melbourne. I've been really happy with it, its a special purpose motor and pump for FIS, so you cannot get spares from your normal Honda dealer (as I have only just found out), but hopefully FIS can get me the parts I need.
Nice trailer! I find that to make the Camlock fittings easier to close, take the washer out and sand off a touch making the washer thinner, allowing the bails to close a bit easier. Slightly more permanent solution, although WD40 does work magic. Thanks for making this video!
That's a good idea!. Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching.
When you are on fog spray the pressure is greatly reduced, you will also notice a rush of air coming from behind you. On straight stream is when you'll feel the full pressure. From my volunteering fire fighting days the old adage using a nozzle "Right for fight (straight stream), left for life (fog pattern)" The straight stream can be used to knock apart the fire and at some distance. The fog pattern can be very useful in dousing a fire as the millions of tiny droplets of water better dissipates heat than straight stream, the downside is that you are closer to the flames. In house fires we used to use the fog pattern out of a window and the wind rush would suck the smoke out of the room and cool us off to some degree.
Now my volunteering is Coast Guard, we use the exact same Honda pump for de-watering. I estimate that the pump puts out about 45-50 psi, about half of what we used in FF days. The friction loss of the cotton jacketed hose you're using is approximately 4psi per length of hose and per story (10ft) of rise. By the way, if I witness any of my crew leave the nozzle (of even open hose) unattended when the pump is running (or about to) or a running pump unattended there will be hell to pay. An aluminum coupling of a brass nozzle shooting around can be deadly. Given your situation i would suggest tying or the open hose end so that it won't flop around as dangerously.
Congrats on a good build, I hope you never have to use it for it's intended purpose.
Grant, thanks so much for the info. Really appreciated. I also hope I don’t ever need it, but the previous house on the land was lost to bushfires in 2014, I’ve cleared a lot of the land ( previous house was IN the Forrest) around the house location as a firebreak, but I’d just rather not have to test my trailer or firebreak. When the house gets built, later this year hopefully, I’ll add some fire suppression to the roof and surrounding area. Thanks again for your comments.
@@TheRuralProject One other thing I suggest, if you haven't already got one, is a foot valve for the suction hose. If you're not familiar it's a one way valve on the end of the hose (many come with strainers) it will prevent the water in pump draining back into the dam when pump is shut down. It can also be used to back prime the pump in a jiffy. You should be able to find one for about 40-50 Koala dollars
Also in an earlier video I saw you unscrew the priming cap when pump was running. You were lucky that the pump wasn't primed at the time as water will flow in by the easiest route (priming port). Don't ask me how I know, suffice to say Lake Ontario water does not taste that "great".
@@ccga3359 yep, the suction hose has a foot valve. How do you use it to prime the pump ? Simply lift the hose to fill the pump and drop it back in the water quickly once you hear the change in tone from the pump / impeller. ?
@@TheRuralProject That's correct. Attach a line (remember I'm working on a small boat so anything that goes over the side is lost forever unless attached somehow, lol) to the pump end of the suction, throw the hose into the water and drag back, attach to pump and tip pump. It only takes half litre or so to prime these pumps. Alternately with hose already attached thrust the end repeatedly in the water. With each thrust the hose will take on more water until it fills the impeller. Also add a small float near the end to keep foot valve off of the bottom. The mud and crap will quickly damage the pumps internals, anything that gets through will otherwise start clogging the nozzle, which is not a good thing in a fire scenario. Oh and come on, paint the trailer red!
As a suggestion I think that the pump to feel hose could have done with a trim and tied to the tank cage to avoid snagging on things that might rip it of and cause damage and less distance for the pump to push the water to the reel
Hi thanks for watching and your suggestion. Fully agree with securing the hose back to the trailer to prevent snagging whilst driving. I've purposely left the hose longer than needed, so I have a bit of flexibility if I want to take the pump off the trailer (suction from dam) and still use the fire hose, I know that will effect efficiency slightly, but only a small amount.
No need for warm water …. A wipe with a wee bit of cooking oil on a rag make it slip over like magic.
I’ve found I need to soften the bigger pipe, I’ve tried wd40 lubricating oil without luck. Usually works but this pipe needs heat to soften it
Thanks for watching.
Nice looking upgrade mate a big setup from video 5 I've just finished putting together my earlier mentioned fire trailer and went through 2 different variations of hose from tank to pump before I got the perfect fit of which is basic black fire hose fitted with nut/tail fittings that screw directly onto 3/4'' inch fittings on both the tank outlet and pump inlet
Instead of a heavy 4.5 or 8 hp pump I've opted to use a 4 stroke 43cc 1.7 hp fire pump that also has 1 inch inlet and outlets I have found that a 1.7 hp pump gives out more pressure through a fire hose in comparison to a higher hp pump although I'm retaining the 8hp for open supply refills from water source right to tank
Hi Robert, thanks for comments. Glad you have finished your fire trailer.
I have to say that I have found that pumps do not vary ( at the nozzle, and to the eye) that much either for normal operation, it’s when you use the pump at extremes ( full hose lengths or steep uphill) that you really notice the performance difference.
Lucky mine has had a life of carting water to allow plant watering for the past 2 years.
Busy with firewood at the moment, but during next summer I will do some work to strengthen the trailer and draw bar, maybe add another axle too.
Thanks for watching and I hope you never have to use your fire trailer to fight a fire.
@@TheRuralProject all good it took alot time and patience to get it perfected it's also an official registered fire trailer with the cfs now just waiting on my id sticker
Have spent about close to nearly 2 1/2 grand in putting it together that excludes the trailer itself but includes both pumps, fittings,tank-pump hose,tank as well
With the la nina we're currently experiencing moment due to peter out late January here in SA and a return to hot weather in February this trailer unit will come in handy
@@robbiestewart1984 thanks for the reply. What’s the advantage of registering the fire trailer with cfs if it’s for personal use.
@@TheRuralProject basically by registering it as a fire trailer with cfs this puts me under their banner of cover for injury and damage thus also I have to follow their SOPs on the fire ground
Where I am is basically surrounded by farm land and pine plantations on either side so in a fire emergency my town can come under threat fairly quickly if the weather conditions are ideal for rapid fire development
By having the trailer recognised as a resource it allows me the flexibility of having it for both personal use and life saving resource
This is looking good. I’m thinking of building something similar 👍
thanks, as you'll see it not that complex and mine is not that pretty, but its cheap and effective. Keep an eye out for a cheap trailer, they do come up. Good luck.
Great set up, I learnt a lot from this video... Just wondering how much did you pay for that honda 200
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching, glad the vid was of some use. I paid about $400 ish a few years ago. I got it from Fire Industry Supplies in Melbourne. I've been really happy with it, its a special purpose motor and pump for FIS, so you cannot get spares from your normal Honda dealer (as I have only just found out), but hopefully FIS can get me the parts I need.
You need to watch youtube an get better ideas for your unit it could be alot better especially for dafting part good try
What are you thinking ?