Great to have you back. So much useful info in one video! I look forward to seeing what this inspired. I'm no expert but one tip I can give when working with end grain. Take care of the end grain first while you still have some stock left on the adjoining sides, that way any tear out will be in the excess stock and will be cleaned up when you machine the face grain :)
That's a really solid tip, especially for people with automatic tool changer equipped CNC's. Had it not been so tedious, I would have liked to rough-machine just the bevel area, swap in a V-bit to machine the 45 degree miter, and swapped the regular 1/4" endmill back in to do the rest of the machining. The cuts parallel to the wood grain are much less stressful to deal with...
Great work Winston, never seen a wooden PC before, thought temperature & humidity changes & material type would be detrimental. Even though they baulked at grain wrap mitres, a very close equivalent can be made with the stepped / rebated corner as you achieved. Hope to see this on your desk !
Depending on the construction method, wood movement would definitely be on my mind too. There's a couple design changes I'd love to play around with and prototype, but for now the issues can be mitigated with a good coat of finish to slow down moisture changes in the material.
glad i found this excellent channel. you re really good at explaining! exactly what i need at this point in my cnc journey. why did you decide against vacuum clmaping the parts in this project? are the light gaps of the miters where the panels come together from the wood warping?
Hey Winston - I've noticed in a few of your videos you get out the air compressor to blow away dust and chips while the machine cuts, and I've also seen on more hardcore machines people using permanently attached air nozzles to do the same. But what if - Instead of going full air compressor power, you used a small blow fan, like the kinds used in those battery powered compressed air dusters or hair driers.. and just mounted it near the spindle and set to power up at the same time as the spindle. Plus if it's mounted opposite to your vacuum tube it could help throw up the dust/chips into the collector more efficiently and reduce both manual intervention and post cut cleanup.
I've used little hydroponic air pumps and also collet fans. They work for light chips, sawdust, etc. They simply aren't that effective at blowing chips out of really deep grooves or pockets, or if the material is very dense like aluminum. There is no replacement for concentrated, pressurized air in those instances.
@@WinstonMakes Cheers for the info, that's good to know. Hopefully one day soon I can get off my ass and make my machine functional.. get some proper hands on experience.
Great video Winston! quick question, is there any video where you go into how you setup your edge guide and corner square? I've a slightly different CNC to the Shapeoko but have been looking for some tolerant (within reason) ideas to setup blocks similar to yours
Why not put the 45 on the panel right at the start with the mitre saw and use it as a reference surface?, flipping the alternate panels to match. You mention the table saw kerf but did you mean running each piece through a table saw, not doing 2 in 1 cut? I would have guessed 1 bevel cut < 1 mitre saw + 2 end mill passes. Nice work tho
There's too many assumptions if you establish the first bevel on the miter saw. You have to trust that your miter saw is tracking perfectly perpendicular across the board, and that its bevel is correctly at 45 degrees. I don't trust the markings on a cheap compound miter saw. The board you're cutting also needs a reference edge you can trust. If I had a jointer, or solid table saw that last bit would be less of an issue. You then also need to pick up on the beveled edge *exactly* so the opposite bevel is the correct width apart. The most accurate way to do all this is to let the CNC establish all the critical features/dimensions in one shot. Also, how do you measure a beveled edge accurately? Most methods require a vertical face.
I prefer when you are working on projects rather than selling products.. I don't know how Carbide is inside the company but on the outside they've become very pushy feeling with a lot of scams here and there just to get people to buy buy buy.
@@pnwscitech1589 Theoretically the wood could catch fire. I have seen people suggesting to put a layer of aluminum over the wood on the inside to prevent sparks from hitting the wood. But then of course you're risking shorting out your electronics. Everything's a tradeoff.
Yayyyyy you’re back! I’ve missed your smooth talking and amazing content!
Bro…….. you’re a genius….!!!!!!!
I’m new in the Cnc world…..
Your work is awesome 👏
Hey I know that case! Love the video, Winston!
Great to have you back. So much useful info in one video! I look forward to seeing what this inspired. I'm no expert but one tip I can give when working with end grain. Take care of the end grain first while you still have some stock left on the adjoining sides, that way any tear out will be in the excess stock and will be cleaned up when you machine the face grain :)
That's a really solid tip, especially for people with automatic tool changer equipped CNC's. Had it not been so tedious, I would have liked to rough-machine just the bevel area, swap in a V-bit to machine the 45 degree miter, and swapped the regular 1/4" endmill back in to do the rest of the machining. The cuts parallel to the wood grain are much less stressful to deal with...
Winston!! welcome back!
Great work Winston, never seen a wooden PC before, thought temperature & humidity changes & material type would be detrimental. Even though they baulked at grain wrap mitres, a very close equivalent can be made with the stepped / rebated corner as you achieved.
Hope to see this on your desk !
Depending on the construction method, wood movement would definitely be on my mind too. There's a couple design changes I'd love to play around with and prototype, but for now the issues can be mitigated with a good coat of finish to slow down moisture changes in the material.
glad i found this excellent channel. you re really good at explaining! exactly what i need at this point in my cnc journey. why did you decide against vacuum clmaping the parts in this project? are the light gaps of the miters where the panels come together from the wood warping?
Well done Winston, impressive work!
Every time I see one of your videos….. I want to bring one SHAPEOKO 4 to Puerto Rico 🇵🇷…!!!!!!!!
Hey Winston - I've noticed in a few of your videos you get out the air compressor to blow away dust and chips while the machine cuts, and I've also seen on more hardcore machines people using permanently attached air nozzles to do the same.
But what if -
Instead of going full air compressor power, you used a small blow fan, like the kinds used in those battery powered compressed air dusters or hair driers.. and just mounted it near the spindle and set to power up at the same time as the spindle.
Plus if it's mounted opposite to your vacuum tube it could help throw up the dust/chips into the collector more efficiently and reduce both manual intervention and post cut cleanup.
I've used little hydroponic air pumps and also collet fans. They work for light chips, sawdust, etc. They simply aren't that effective at blowing chips out of really deep grooves or pockets, or if the material is very dense like aluminum. There is no replacement for concentrated, pressurized air in those instances.
@@WinstonMakes Cheers for the info, that's good to know. Hopefully one day soon I can get off my ass and make my machine functional.. get some proper hands on experience.
Saw Evan and Katelyn's resin version of this case.
Great video, full of info. Cabinet looks awesome. Mahalo for sharing!🙂🐒
Great video Winston! quick question, is there any video where you go into how you setup your edge guide and corner square? I've a slightly different CNC to the Shapeoko but have been looking for some tolerant (within reason) ideas to setup blocks similar to yours
Thanks for the tips!
Btw. could you tell me the name of the background music used in the video?
Artesian Builds... that hasn't aged well lol
Why not put the 45 on the panel right at the start with the mitre saw and use it as a reference surface?, flipping the alternate panels to match. You mention the table saw kerf but did you mean running each piece through a table saw, not doing 2 in 1 cut? I would have guessed 1 bevel cut < 1 mitre saw + 2 end mill passes. Nice work tho
There's too many assumptions if you establish the first bevel on the miter saw. You have to trust that your miter saw is tracking perfectly perpendicular across the board, and that its bevel is correctly at 45 degrees. I don't trust the markings on a cheap compound miter saw. The board you're cutting also needs a reference edge you can trust. If I had a jointer, or solid table saw that last bit would be less of an issue.
You then also need to pick up on the beveled edge *exactly* so the opposite bevel is the correct width apart. The most accurate way to do all this is to let the CNC establish all the critical features/dimensions in one shot. Also, how do you measure a beveled edge accurately? Most methods require a vertical face.
I prefer when you are working on projects rather than selling products.. I don't know how Carbide is inside the company but on the outside they've become very pushy feeling with a lot of scams here and there just to get people to buy buy buy.
Great video, but I'm way too paranoid to house electronics in wood.
What's wrong with electronics in a wood housing?
@@pnwscitech1589 Theoretically the wood could catch fire. I have seen people suggesting to put a layer of aluminum over the wood on the inside to prevent sparks from hitting the wood. But then of course you're risking shorting out your electronics. Everything's a tradeoff.
This was a mistake of a collab ... R.I.P. (not really) Artisian builds...
Vertical piece with triangles...Google "isogrid"
Yeah, I saw that watching Smarter Every Day's rocket factory tour with Tory Bruno. Apparently Orthogrids are where it's at though...