Outstanding video and I thank you! Sitting at the dealership getting my regular oil change and tire rotation. Service advisor informed me my Gladiator service schedule recommends 15k miles diff oil changes. $425.86. Well, being im at the dealer, and this is my first Jeep. i felt the investment was worth it on my 60k Mojave... I will certainly be doing it myself with what I learned from your video. Very much appreciated, Sir. 2022 Jeep JT Mojave, Sting Grey.
Great video. Clearly QA issues. I changed out at 21k for rear and only some gunk on the drain plug but the oil looked great...not even black. And I off-road quite a bit.
here I thought me doing mine at 25k was too early :) joking asside mine was much clearer but there were some magneric particles. I opted for 75/140 for rhe rear since I tow a 4k lb travel trailed several thousand miles a year. Just hit 35k in my 2020 JT-R and so far nothing other than routine maintenance needed thankfully
I believe you have 4.11 gears in the Rubicon and a locker instead of the limited slip. I wonder if the limited slip has anything to do with the fluid getting dirtier. Anyway, so far so good for reliability on my end too, hopefully that remains true.
Crazy, just did the rear on my 2020 max tow non-trakloc at 67k. 😂 Not even close to what your front end had for metal shavings on the plug. Dark golden brown, definitely cooked and causing some drag and a little slap, now that I know what fresh oil feels like, but still kinda clear and definitely not a metal slurry like you had. Not really even a metal sheen. My transfer case had more metal sheen, but less metal on the plug. I’m curious as to what all that metal you guys are getting is from. I’ve got only maybe 100 miles off road, nothing too crazy, no mud or deep water and about 400 miles towing a 6500lbs travel trailer. But yeah, prolly should have done it sooner, but it probably would have blown up or gummed up by now if it was like yours. Do you have an update? Feeling like you should by now. I’d probably do it again in every 1k til it was clear, then in 5k, then in 10k, 15k, etc. Find out how long the fluid will hold up, and if you got a real issue on your hands. You can also take some fresh fluid with only the fill off, sticking the hose as deep as you can and making the used fluid overflow, and gauging from that, whether you need to do a fluid swap. I’m probably gonna do mine again in 10k just to see how things look. Anyways, thanks for the video!
That is very interesting, I’m thinking it has something to do with the trakloc. I’m just at 11k miles now but I’m selling it today. I love the Gladiator but I can’t resist the sky high prices people are paying for used vehicles.
No. AMSOIL 75w-90 already includes the additive for limited slip differentials. Most synthetic gear oils now include the friction modifier required. If they do, they will have a statement like this on their label: Contains friction modifiers for limited-slip applications.
@@TheLawnEngineerumm, you might want to read that bottle again, just in case. I'm holding a bottle right now, it says "if chatter occurs, add amsoil slip lock additive. No where on this bottle does it say additive included. Maybe the "severe gear" does? The standard amsoil gear oil does not.
Most full synthetics are 75w-90. They are able to obtain a gear oil that flows just as well but has better film strength by controlling the length of the oil molecules. 75w-85 is a non-synthetic gear oil.
@@yakitoriPB that is pretty interesting because if you look at all the major manufacturers (Mobil, Valvoline, AMSOil) they don’t even offer a 85 unless it’s conventional.
I doubt the oil in the rear axle was "dirty," especially after only a few thousand miles. It looks to me that the OEM oil in there may have been a "break-in" (for lack of a better term) molly-paste (molybdenum) gear oil which gives it a gray color, which might be interpreted as dirty-looking but in reality, it's still very clean/new. Only a chemical analysis of the oil would show its true state ("dirty" or not), so I'm guessing it wasn't dirty at all. But I'm no expert mechanic, just have seen molly in a differential before, so I mention it here just in case that's what happened. Whatever, I'll be leaving both differentials/final drives of my Gladiator alone until at around 30K miles (unless the dash-maintenance-info says differently), when I also usually do (and also way before it's required, whenever Jeep says it's due) a transmission oil change (not a flush), brake fluid flush/refill, power-steering change/refill and possibly a coolant flush/refill as well. However, it won't be because I put a lot of miles on my truck though, it's because it'll take me maybe 4 years to get to 30K miles...so oil/fluids that have been in there that long I just feel better about changing them out even though they probably could stay in there way longer. Not sure when Jeep says the Gladiator's differentials DO need their oils changed (my Honda Pilot had a dash "Maintenance Minder" that would give a code to change the differential oil when it was due), but I'm not even up to 8K miles yet (10 months of vehicle ownership) so I have plenty of time to find that out. "Jeep Wave" -- BR (2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon)
Good point, it is possible there was some Molly-paste in there but the color of the fluid in the front axle was that of typical gear oil. The rear axle does get significantly more use, so it is possible they did something different back there.
@@TheLawnEngineer I know the colors were different -- the front one looked like typical heavyweight gear-oil, but yeah, the rear one may have bee something different. From now on though, you'll be using gear oil that looks "normal" in both differentials, so it'll be interesting to see if -- when you change the rear oil again in the future -- it looks like the first "dirty" oil did or is pretty clear like the front one. Only time will tell... -- BR
@@gunstrucksbbq My differential oil change is not due for some time...so I have no idea how it looks or is there are metal particles in it or not. As NONE of my previous vehciles have had any such issue, I am "hoping for the best" with my 2021 Jeep Gladiator. -- BR
That stinks, popping the cover adds a bit of work. Mine was also a '21 but it had the standard width axles. The Rubicon and Mojave have wider axles; must be the difference. I'm not sure why the wider axle would remove the drain plug, but it's the only difference I know of.
@@medjoolmaker Great question. There is no differential fluid to change in the Pacifica unless you have AWD, then there is a rear differential. The transmission in a front wheel drive vehicle is often referred to as a transaxle because it combines the trans and axle. This is one of the reason automakers went to front wheel drive because it is cheaper/less components.
@@medjoolmaker I see a wide variety of recommendations from coolant suppliers, from 5yr/150,000 miles to 10yr/300,000 miles. I like to look at the oil/coolant manufacturers vs. the car manufacturer. Anyway, I will plan on changing it out this summer.
Outstanding video and I thank you! Sitting at the dealership getting my regular oil change and tire rotation.
Service advisor informed me my Gladiator service schedule recommends 15k miles diff oil changes. $425.86. Well, being im at the dealer, and this is my first Jeep. i felt the investment was worth it on my 60k Mojave... I will certainly be doing it myself with what I learned from your video. Very much appreciated, Sir.
2022 Jeep JT Mojave, Sting Grey.
I’m glad you didn’t give them the pleasure of separating more money from you. Thanks for commenting 👍
Always take out the fill plug first
Yes sir
Great video. Clearly QA issues. I changed out at 21k for rear and only some gunk on the drain plug but the oil looked great...not even black. And I off-road quite a bit.
Good to know, thanks for checking in.
my 2021 3.0L also changed it at 30K, gunk on plug, oil looked great also
My Jeep JL was changed at 30 000 miles, oil looked clean with minor shavings on the magnetic drain plug. Then switched to Royal Purple.
here I thought me doing mine at 25k was too early :) joking asside mine was much clearer but there were some magneric particles. I opted for 75/140 for rhe rear since I tow a 4k lb travel trailed several thousand miles a year. Just hit 35k in my 2020 JT-R and so far nothing other than routine maintenance needed thankfully
I believe you have 4.11 gears in the Rubicon and a locker instead of the limited slip. I wonder if the limited slip has anything to do with the fluid getting dirtier. Anyway, so far so good for reliability on my end too, hopefully that remains true.
Great video! Any reason you didn’t go with squeeze packs. S pump and bottle?
Thank you! I didn't go with the squeeze pack because my local distributor didn't have any in-stock and I already had the pump.
@@TheLawnEngineer gotcha.
Crazy, just did the rear on my 2020 max tow non-trakloc at 67k. 😂 Not even close to what your front end had for metal shavings on the plug. Dark golden brown, definitely cooked and causing some drag and a little slap, now that I know what fresh oil feels like, but still kinda clear and definitely not a metal slurry like you had. Not really even a metal sheen. My transfer case had more metal sheen, but less metal on the plug. I’m curious as to what all that metal you guys are getting is from. I’ve got only maybe 100 miles off road, nothing too crazy, no mud or deep water and about 400 miles towing a 6500lbs travel trailer. But yeah, prolly should have done it sooner, but it probably would have blown up or gummed up by now if it was like yours. Do you have an update? Feeling like you should by now. I’d probably do it again in every 1k til it was clear, then in 5k, then in 10k, 15k, etc. Find out how long the fluid will hold up, and if you got a real issue on your hands. You can also take some fresh fluid with only the fill off, sticking the hose as deep as you can and making the used fluid overflow, and gauging from that, whether you need to do a fluid swap. I’m probably gonna do mine again in 10k just to see how things look. Anyways, thanks for the video!
That is very interesting, I’m thinking it has something to do with the trakloc.
I’m just at 11k miles now but I’m selling it today. I love the Gladiator but I can’t resist the sky high prices people are paying for used vehicles.
Did you add limited slip additive? Mopar LS additive (2.3 oz) is required for electronic LS.
No. AMSOIL 75w-90 already includes the additive for limited slip differentials. Most synthetic gear oils now include the friction modifier required. If they do, they will have a statement like this on their label: Contains friction modifiers for limited-slip applications.
@@TheLawnEngineerumm, you might want to read that bottle again, just in case. I'm holding a bottle right now, it says "if chatter occurs, add amsoil slip lock additive. No where on this bottle does it say additive included. Maybe the "severe gear" does? The standard amsoil gear oil does not.
I’d take the fill plug off first. If you drain it and can’t get the full plug off then you’re screwed.
Yes good point, especially important with older vehicles.
No drain plugs in the newer JLs and JTs.
Thats unfortunate, popping the cover makes it a bit messier and time consuming.
Good stuff. Just did mine at 33K.
Glad you found some value in the video 👍. Good job on getting that changed. How did yours look coming out?
How did it look? I just took care of my oil change 32k and after seeing the fluid at 6k I might do mine at 40k
Man, that fluid definitely has water in it. I saw another video and his truck had over 30k miles. His diff oil was brown.
Yes, I was not impressed with the condition of the fluid. Thanks for taking the time to check in.
of course the front diff is cleaner, the diff gears dont spin unless you are in 4wd because of the FAD
Yep
Are you serious, after 6k I need to replace rear oil? 😊
You don’t have to do anything 🙃
Why use 90 weight vs the 85 recommended in the owners manual?
Most full synthetics are 75w-90. They are able to obtain a gear oil that flows just as well but has better film strength by controlling the length of the oil molecules.
75w-85 is a non-synthetic gear oil.
@@TheLawnEngineer Ill switch to that next change. This Mopar 75w85 is 65 bucks a quart!
@@TheLawnEngineer the 75w85 Mopar says synthetic gear and axle lubricant.
@@yakitoriPB that is pretty interesting because if you look at all the major manufacturers (Mobil, Valvoline, AMSOil) they don’t even offer a 85 unless it’s conventional.
I doubt the oil in the rear axle was "dirty," especially after only a few thousand miles. It looks to me that the OEM oil in there may have been a "break-in" (for lack of a better term) molly-paste (molybdenum) gear oil which gives it a gray color, which might be interpreted as dirty-looking but in reality, it's still very clean/new. Only a chemical analysis of the oil would show its true state ("dirty" or not), so I'm guessing it wasn't dirty at all.
But I'm no expert mechanic, just have seen molly in a differential before, so I mention it here just in case that's what happened.
Whatever, I'll be leaving both differentials/final drives of my Gladiator alone until at around 30K miles (unless the dash-maintenance-info says differently), when I also usually do (and also way before it's required, whenever Jeep says it's due) a transmission oil change (not a flush), brake fluid flush/refill, power-steering change/refill and possibly a coolant flush/refill as well. However, it won't be because I put a lot of miles on my truck though, it's because it'll take me maybe 4 years to get to 30K miles...so oil/fluids that have been in there that long I just feel better about changing them out even though they probably could stay in there way longer.
Not sure when Jeep says the Gladiator's differentials DO need their oils changed (my Honda Pilot had a dash "Maintenance Minder" that would give a code to change the differential oil when it was due), but I'm not even up to 8K miles yet (10 months of vehicle ownership) so I have plenty of time to find that out.
"Jeep Wave"
-- BR
(2021 Jeep Gladiator Rubicon)
Good point, it is possible there was some Molly-paste in there but the color of the fluid in the front axle was that of typical gear oil. The rear axle does get significantly more use, so it is possible they did something different back there.
@@TheLawnEngineer I know the colors were different -- the front one looked like typical heavyweight gear-oil, but yeah, the rear one may have bee something different. From now on though, you'll be using gear oil that looks "normal" in both differentials, so it'll be interesting to see if -- when you change the rear oil again in the future -- it looks like the first "dirty" oil did or is pretty clear like the front one. Only time will tell...
-- BR
@@billredding2000 I'll probably change it out in a year and see how it looks...
Had a lot more metal sludge on the magnet which makes me think it could be both
@@gunstrucksbbq My differential oil change is not due for some time...so I have no idea how it looks or is there are metal particles in it or not.
As NONE of my previous vehciles have had any such issue, I am "hoping for the best" with my 2021 Jeep Gladiator.
-- BR
What year model is yours? My '21 Mojave doesn't have the front drain plug.
That stinks, popping the cover adds a bit of work. Mine was also a '21 but it had the standard width axles. The Rubicon and Mojave have wider axles; must be the difference.
I'm not sure why the wider axle would remove the drain plug, but it's the only difference I know of.
Sure was a lot of metal and crap in there, it’s expensive but I would change again in 5,000 miles and keep and eye on it
Good idea, I'll plan on that and report my findings.
@@TheLawnEngineer can’t do this on Pacifica? Only the trans video you did?
@@TheLawnEngineer what about coolant change in Pacifica? Miles? Time?
@@medjoolmaker Great question. There is no differential fluid to change in the Pacifica unless you have AWD, then there is a rear differential.
The transmission in a front wheel drive vehicle is often referred to as a transaxle because it combines the trans and axle. This is one of the reason automakers went to front wheel drive because it is cheaper/less components.
@@medjoolmaker I see a wide variety of recommendations from coolant suppliers, from 5yr/150,000 miles to 10yr/300,000 miles. I like to look at the oil/coolant manufacturers vs. the car manufacturer. Anyway, I will plan on changing it out this summer.
You should always remove or loosen the drain plug first so you know you can refill the axles
Great tip, don't want to be stuck with an empty axle and no way to refill.
That's what he did. I think you mean remove or loosen the FILL plug first
The Jeep stealership quotes over $250 per differential for this job.
Stealership is right….💰💰💰