I called Anchor and got the correct dimension 71mm so I ordered it. Installed this weekend. Man, it was a real struggle to drop in position. After 1/2 hour of fiddling, decided to pull it back up and grind some material off the bracket to gain more clearance. Then, bam, just dropped into place without fighting. For those attempting to install theirs, I would recommend disconnecting the O2 sensor cable to gain more room and be very careful not to nick/cut any sensor cables as you try to remove/install the mount. Be super patient! Thanks again for your video, it was very helpful.
I had to return Anchor 9155 mount after straggling 4 hours because I didn't have any tool to shave the bracket which is 1 cm longer than Oem . Purchased oem for $100 from eBay and installation took 30 minutes.
If you have an Automatic Transmission, on some model years this job becomes much easier if you unbolt the shroud between the Exhaust and the floor pan and move it towards the back of the car about 4 inches then remove the two nuts securing the shift linkage cable retaining bracket to the base of the firewall thus allowing you to move the cable almost completely out of the way. This then clears out a lot of space to get the rear mount out and in a LOT easier. It is also suggested if the rear mount is in poor condition the side upper mount on the passenger's side is probably in about the same state and should be replaced. The side mount becomes evident if the aluminum portion of the mount that bolts to the engine comes in contact with the firewall side of it's retaining bracket -- you will hear what sounds like a bumping or grinding sound in Drive under acceleration.
I am not having an easy time wrestling this into place. There doesn't seem to be enough vertical room to get the studs to clear and drop into their holes. What am I missing?
The main bolt that goes through the center of the mount is torqued to 48 ft. lbs. The three nuts and one bolt underneath the car are torqued to 38 ft. lbs.
The Chinese replacement mounts are notoriously manufactured poorly. I heard about the difference in width on the mounting pad and ground mine before I installed it. I also used 3M Window Weld to reinforce the cheap Chinese rubber. Look on YT for window weld motor mount, there's videos to show you how to fix the factory mount or reinforce a Chinese replacement mount. It's well worth your time to do this.
Another tip, leave the bolts under the car loose when you put the long bolt back through the mount and bracket. Everything will line up easier. These Chinese mounts aren't manufactured very precisely, and you will need the "wiggle room".
Thanks for taking the time to make this pain in the ass video.it really helped me to understand what i need to do and make changing mine easy...thanks again
Great video. I do wish the job had gone as easily for me. I had to drop the subframe to gain enough clearance. Lining up the the thru-bolt also proved to be a royal pain. Oh well.
Hi, we had exhaust replaced (including converter) on my wife's 2007 Vibe. After the new converter installed, the Vibe developed some vibration. There was check engine light and my wife brought the car back to the garage. The garage then told us the motor mounts needed to be replaced. We agreed, as the vibration was quite noticeable and even damaged the new exhaust. All mounts were replaced. After the mount replacement, an oil leak happened, that required a new valve gasket. Now after 2300 $ bill the car vibrates terribly and rambles loudly in reverse, and in Drive, when idle, at a stop and in slower speeds. There is also some knocking when driving and the car does not stay driving, gas pedal has to be constantly pushed. The garage basically gave us the car saying they cannot do anything else to improve the vibration. It however keeps damaging things, even the trunk rattles now and the doors and windows as well. Any idea if we can save the car?
Check the belt tensioner...those fail and can be noisy. Also check the intake gaskets...they can fail causing the car to run rough. I'd also suggest another mechanic, one that specializes in Toyotas maybe...
@@SevenFortyOne Thank you. Toyota dealership here says its GM car...GM dealership in town recked our defrost while doing second airbag recall...But intake manifold gasket we paid them to replace 2 years ago...Unless it got damaged again? All our problems seem to have started when the garage replaced exhaust line...What is the best way to check the belt tensioner? It was replaced about 10 years ago but the symptoms were milder..
Great video. I have 2004 Matrix with 175000 mi with vibration during winter months. I ordered Motor King part, but it did not fit. The center bushing was short by 6mm and off centered. My matrix bushing measured 71mm, Motor king was 65mm. Then I cross reference to another part by Anchor 9155, which looks just like yours. Would you happen to know roughly what the dimension of the center bushing was on the Duralast EM9155? And yes, I heard that Matrix is notorious for belt tensioner issue. Fortunately, mine is doing pretty good so far. Just needed to replace my rear engine mount. Thanks.Andy
2sonsandparents Sorry Andy - I have no idea what the dimension on that bushing is. Maybe if you can find one in stock at a parts store they'd let you check it. Thanks for watching and commenting! Good luck with your repair!
SevenFortyOne Did you see visual damage on your old motor mount, or did it just start to soften? I've got a lot of engine movement during shifting in my XRS (to the point that I hear what sounds like tapping), but I don't see any damage on my rear or front mounts.
Ryan Garman As you may have read above, my engine mount wasn't really my problem. My old one has what I would consider normal wear for 95,000mi ... it was a little soft and had some stress cracks but wasn't ripped or broken. My real problem was a bad belt tensioner which I made a video about changing as well.
may as well have just shown the mounts in and ended the video. no shots of you actually removing anything. That would have been really helpful. Next time i guess.
Its been a while since I did this job, but I think I had to use a jack under the engine/transmission to move the engine slightly so that everything would align correctly. I think it took several attempts to get it right but eventually I was able to get the new mount installed.
rough idle ... before I took the old mount out, I used a mirror to inspect it and thought it was ripped. Upon taking it out, I realized i was just seeing "flashing", in other words, the old one was OK. My real problem turned out to be a bad belt tensioner.
BlazerLT - Rough idle and a chattering noise with the car in gear and a foot on the break. When accelerating from a stop, there was a noticeable chatter and shake but at speed everything was fine.
SevenFortyOne Ok, I see, but how can a belt tensioner cause a rough idle? I am asking seeing I have a rough idle on my 2003 and am seeing if this is the issue.
BlazerLT In my case the internal mechanism of the tensioner was broken which was causing it to chatter and vibrate during the first second or so of acceleration which in turn caused a vibration that could be felt throughout the car. While driving, everything was under load and tight so the chatter/vibration smoothed out.
I called Anchor and got the correct dimension 71mm so I ordered it. Installed this weekend. Man, it was a real struggle to drop in position. After 1/2 hour of fiddling, decided to pull it back up and grind some material off the bracket to gain more clearance. Then, bam, just dropped into place without fighting.
For those attempting to install theirs, I would recommend disconnecting the O2 sensor cable to gain more room and be very careful not to nick/cut any sensor cables as you try to remove/install the mount. Be super patient!
Thanks again for your video, it was very helpful.
2sonsandparents Good tips for those attempting this. I'm glad you got yours taken care of. Thanks for sharing!
I had to return Anchor 9155 mount after straggling 4 hours because I didn't have any tool to shave the bracket which is 1 cm longer than Oem . Purchased oem for $100 from eBay and installation took 30 minutes.
If you have an Automatic Transmission, on some model years this job becomes much easier if you unbolt the shroud between the Exhaust and the floor pan and move it towards the back of the car about 4 inches then remove the two nuts securing the shift linkage cable retaining bracket to the base of the firewall thus allowing you to move the cable almost completely out of the way. This then clears out a lot of space to get the rear mount out and in a LOT easier. It is also suggested if the rear mount is in poor condition the side upper mount on the passenger's side is probably in about the same state and should be replaced. The side mount becomes evident if the aluminum portion of the mount that bolts to the engine comes in contact with the firewall side of it's retaining bracket -- you will hear what sounds like a bumping or grinding sound in Drive under acceleration.
Great job on making things visible. Thank you. Having everything so clean is a huge help too.
I am not having an easy time wrestling this into place. There doesn't seem to be enough vertical room to get the studs to clear and drop into their holes.
What am I missing?
The main bolt that goes through the center of the mount is torqued to 48 ft. lbs. The three nuts and one bolt underneath the car are torqued to 38 ft. lbs.
I recommend a block of wood between the jack and the engine cases.
The Chinese replacement mounts are notoriously manufactured poorly. I heard about the difference in width on the mounting pad and ground mine before I installed it. I also used 3M Window Weld to reinforce the cheap Chinese rubber. Look on YT for window weld motor mount, there's videos to show you how to fix the factory mount or reinforce a Chinese replacement mount. It's well worth your time to do this.
Another tip, leave the bolts under the car loose when you put the long bolt back through the mount and bracket. Everything will line up easier. These Chinese mounts aren't manufactured very precisely, and you will need the "wiggle room".
Thanks for taking the time to make this pain in the ass video.it really helped me to understand what i need to do and make changing mine easy...thanks again
Great video. I do wish the job had gone as easily for me. I had to drop the subframe to gain enough clearance. Lining up the the thru-bolt also proved to be a royal pain. Oh well.
The best video showing this repair! Thank you:)
Thanks for your help!
Super informative, thanks for the guide bud.
Thank you for this video. You saved me a lot of time.
I'm glad you found my video helpful... Thanks for watching
Hi, we had exhaust replaced (including converter) on my wife's 2007 Vibe. After the new converter installed, the Vibe developed some vibration. There was check engine light and my wife brought the car back to the garage. The garage then told us the motor mounts needed to be replaced. We agreed, as the vibration was quite noticeable and even damaged the new exhaust. All mounts were replaced.
After the mount replacement, an oil leak happened, that required a new valve gasket.
Now after 2300 $ bill the car vibrates terribly and rambles loudly in reverse, and in Drive, when idle, at a stop and in slower speeds. There is also some knocking when driving and the car does not stay driving, gas pedal has to be constantly pushed. The garage basically gave us the car saying they cannot do anything else to improve the vibration. It however keeps damaging things, even the trunk rattles now and the doors and windows as well. Any idea if we can save the car?
Check the belt tensioner...those fail and can be noisy. Also check the intake gaskets...they can fail causing the car to run rough. I'd also suggest another mechanic, one that specializes in Toyotas maybe...
@@SevenFortyOne Thank you. Toyota dealership here says its GM car...GM dealership in town recked our defrost while doing second airbag recall...But intake manifold gasket we paid them to replace 2 years ago...Unless it got damaged again?
All our problems seem to have started when the garage replaced exhaust line...What is the best way to check the belt tensioner? It was replaced about 10 years ago but the symptoms were milder..
excellent video, thank you for making it
Great video. I have 2004 Matrix with 175000 mi with vibration during winter months. I ordered Motor King part, but it did not fit. The center bushing was short by 6mm and off centered. My matrix bushing measured 71mm, Motor king was 65mm.
Then I cross reference to another part by Anchor 9155, which looks just like yours. Would you happen to know roughly what the dimension of the center bushing was on the Duralast EM9155?
And yes, I heard that Matrix is notorious for belt tensioner issue. Fortunately, mine is doing pretty good so far. Just needed to replace my rear engine mount. Thanks.Andy
2sonsandparents Sorry Andy - I have no idea what the dimension on that bushing is. Maybe if you can find one in stock at a parts store they'd let you check it. Thanks for watching and commenting! Good luck with your repair!
SevenFortyOne Did you see visual damage on your old motor mount, or did it just start to soften? I've got a lot of engine movement during shifting in my XRS (to the point that I hear what sounds like tapping), but I don't see any damage on my rear or front mounts.
Ryan Garman As you may have read above, my engine mount wasn't really my problem. My old one has what I would consider normal wear for 95,000mi ... it was a little soft and had some stress cracks but wasn't ripped or broken. My real problem was a bad belt tensioner which I made a video about changing as well.
may as well have just shown the mounts in and ended the video. no shots of you actually removing anything. That would have been really helpful. Next time i guess.
Would this be the same for a 2009 pontiacv vibe gt?
I don't know...of it uses the same engine then yes...if not then the process will be similar but different
It's the same
nice video it helped me out a lot I managed to take the motor mount off of my matrix 2006 xr however was unable to install the new one any advice
Its been a while since I did this job, but I think I had to use a jack under the engine/transmission to move the engine slightly so that everything would align correctly. I think it took several attempts to get it right but eventually I was able to get the new mount installed.
thanks i just cant get it into the brackets for some reason one side is to big i tried but no deal
Is it possible that you were sold the wrong part? Can you tell if it is identical to the old one?
i could not compare it the rubber broke apart when i took the old one off I looked at your video and it looks like the one i purchased from napa
so I decided I'm gonna exchange it and try to put it on after work
nice job!
Process is the same for a toyota celica gts 7th Gen right?
I'm not sure...should be at least similar
What caused the engine mount failure?
Age. Rubber rots, particularly when exposed to fumes and heat cycling.
48 ft lbs center bolt, 38 ft lbs other 3 nuts & 1 bolt.
what were your symptoms?
rough idle ... before I took the old mount out, I used a mirror to inspect it and thought it was ripped. Upon taking it out, I realized i was just seeing "flashing", in other words, the old one was OK. My real problem turned out to be a bad belt tensioner.
SevenFortyOne How did the belt tensioner cause a rough idle? Was there noise asscociated with it?
BlazerLT - Rough idle and a chattering noise with the car in gear and a foot on the break. When accelerating from a stop, there was a noticeable chatter and shake but at speed everything was fine.
SevenFortyOne Ok, I see, but how can a belt tensioner cause a rough idle? I am asking seeing I have a rough idle on my 2003 and am seeing if this is the issue.
BlazerLT In my case the internal mechanism of the tensioner was broken which was causing it to chatter and vibrate during the first second or so of acceleration which in turn caused a vibration that could be felt throughout the car. While driving, everything was under load and tight so the chatter/vibration smoothed out.
Bra u made this liok ez
Right on!