I save broken drill bits and tooling to make boring bar bits. I use high temperature silver solder (braze) and mount the peice at 90° and then grind whatever profile you want. You can also use carbide teath off of old circular saw blades if you want. It saves a lot of grinding trying to form it out of a solid block of HSS. So it's almost the same process you just did making the tool holder but you just braze on the tool bit instead of mounting it with a screw. Cheap and easy using scrap.
You could even build this rennaiscance blow torch as a project. You could update it to use propane and reach higher temps using the blow tube. Should be more than sufficient to silver solder. ruclips.net/video/vyIpzLDhWqQ/видео.htmlsi=zJwbwLg3qR4CJxLb
Really great - I appreciate that you show everything, pitfalls and all. Frankly it is finding those and overcoming them that is a big part of fabricating - and indeed R and D. Always a pleasure to follow along. 👍
It's always a delight when your videos pop up! 👍 Re the oil, you can get a little one-way inline valve and put it on the machine near the head, it will stop the oil draining back. At least over short time periods. And another tip for the oil; if you get some syringe tips in various sizes from the pharmacist you can jam them in the end of your oil hose, that way it only squirts a tiny bit of oil on the cutter, and is handy because the little squirt stream will squirt out horizontally so you can aim it at the cutter from a couple of inches away.
G'day Rusty Another Great Video. Take a piece of round stock, machine it, shape it, & fit an insert. Suddenly, you have a tool holder to cut threads. Well done Ted
Hi Michel ☺, thanks for another interesting video mate, and the insert holder worked well, I noticed in the close up shots of the tool starting to cut the threads that the tool and cross slide jumped up as if somethings loose perhaps. Have a look at your video at 17. 58secs. Best wishes to you and your's, Stuart UK.
I will be very happy in the future to see the useless thread be used as some interesting part of a great project. Like a adjustable leg on a so so grinding tool holding thing.
Hey Michel, How nice of that guy from the Netherlands. 😉 Nicely done at first👍🏻, but there is a small mistake. The inserts should be slightly slanted. From my memory 3 degrees. If you have them in horizontally, the insert touches the cutting edge and the bottom. You don't actually want that. Have fun with it. Greetings Dominic from the Netherlands
That's interesting to know. I did cut the point on the bottom side to prevent it from rubbing. But I will adapt the two flats on the shank to give it an angle.
@@Rustinox You will certainly succeed. You can also put a piece in your lathe with a hole in it and then put a tool in front of it and you can see it👍🏻
Great video Michel. I enjoy your approach to making stuff. Would also like to know if the white spirit works. I sometimes use a 50/50 mix of engine oil and kerosene (paraffin) and inexpensive option if a lot of coolant is needed. Kerosene is also good with aluminium. Doesn't smell too bad 🤭 Cheers Nobby
Need a tool, make a tool! I try to do that when I come, but often it is easier, cheaper and faster to buy the chinese stuff. I needed a heavy boring bar (1") and internal threading bar (.75") recently, and I was able to get them from China relatively fast and cheap. I noticed an awful lot of tool deflection in the last shot of cutting the threads after you reduced the diameter of the cutting tool. I'd be careful with the white spirits, it's got a relatively low flash point (55C) compared to motor oil (200C+). Diluted, it's not likely a big deal, though.
Good video. I'm not clear on what you used to clean your mill table. White Spirits? Hopefully not white gas (naphtha). It's very flammable, much more so than paint thinner. Two more questions, did you really make the bolt for the insert and why did you use the tool face down?
@@Rustinox Just looked up the white spirits. Apparently its the same as paint thinner with more Toluene. Much safer than what we refer to as white gas in the US. I've never had any luck making a small screw like that plus no metric on my lathe.
Michel, for what it's worth, the modern version of the Dremel is not that good either in my experience. I am on my third as they have a habit of just blowing up for no apparent reason and the spindle bearings are not exactly ABEC quality. Regards, Preso
I think the shaper is getting its own back for you cannibalising it, that's why it didn't work, and you had to use the piece of 'rusty' steel instead. 🤣🤣
One man’s rusty bit of metal is another man’s vision. Michel, you never fail to amaze and delight. 👏👏👍😀
Rust or not. Steel is steel :)
Michel, I am eternally grateful that my wife does not get rid of things which have served well for many years but are losing their hair. ;)
Lol, I can uderstand that :)
Thanks for another enjoyable 20 minutes Michel.
Have a good weekend! Matt
Thanks Matt.
That nut and threaded bar you didn't want can now become an adjustable jack for supporting long items on your milling machine 😇
Good idea.
Happy days Michel 🎉 thoroughly enjoyed this one buddy, thanks for sharing
Thanks Ralfy.
I save broken drill bits and tooling to make boring bar bits. I use high temperature silver solder (braze) and mount the peice at 90° and then grind whatever profile you want. You can also use carbide teath off of old circular saw blades if you want. It saves a lot of grinding trying to form it out of a solid block of HSS. So it's almost the same process you just did making the tool holder but you just braze on the tool bit instead of mounting it with a screw. Cheap and easy using scrap.
It's just that I don't have a torch...
@Rustinox mapp gas works with the burnzmatic head ypu have there. 😉👍.
You could even build this rennaiscance blow torch as a project. You could update it to use propane and reach higher temps using the blow tube. Should be more than sufficient to silver solder.
ruclips.net/video/vyIpzLDhWqQ/видео.htmlsi=zJwbwLg3qR4CJxLb
Gday Rustinox, very generous gifts and the new tool works well, cheers
Generous indeed. Thanks Matty.
Really great - I appreciate that you show everything, pitfalls and all. Frankly it is finding those and overcoming them that is a big part of fabricating - and indeed R and D. Always a pleasure to follow along. 👍
There is more to learn from a fail than from a win.
I really appreciate / envy your ability to take crusty material and make something out of it. Great job.
Just go for it.
It's always a delight when your videos pop up! 👍
Re the oil, you can get a little one-way inline valve and put it on the machine near the head, it will stop the oil draining back. At least over short time periods.
And another tip for the oil; if you get some syringe tips in various sizes from the pharmacist you can jam them in the end of your oil hose, that way it only squirts a tiny bit of oil on the cutter, and is handy because the little squirt stream will squirt out horizontally so you can aim it at the cutter from a couple of inches away.
That's a good idea. I'll try to find some.
Fun to watch, Rusti! 👍
Thanks.
A Rusty tool made by Rusti, how appropriate, well done. 👍
And it works :)
Nice work Michel. Useless scrap metal transformed into very useful tool. You are quite good doing that.
Thanks.
Nice little tool. It is on my to do list.
Go for it.
Nice internal threading tool build Michel.
And it works :)
Haha, diesel stinks... Agree! We use HVO, syntetic diesel on the railroad and it doesn't smell bad!
Things usually works, sooner or later.
Well done!
White spirit stinks too, but less...
Hi Rustinox live your approach another great video. Keep up the great work.
Thanks.
Great video Michel, there are a million challenges to making an internal thread as you have demonstrated here. Enjoyed very much, have a nice weekend!
Thanks.
Nice one Michel. I have been working on some similar projects :)
Nice. Go for it.
G'day Rusty Another Great Video. Take a piece of round stock, machine it, shape it, & fit an insert. Suddenly, you have a tool holder to cut threads.
Well done
Ted
And it works.
@@Rustinox Yesssss & It works like a store bought one, but better, because it has the Rusty Brand on it 😆
Hi Michel ☺, thanks for another interesting video mate, and the insert holder worked well, I noticed in the close up shots of the tool starting to cut the threads that the tool and cross slide jumped up as if somethings loose perhaps. Have a look at your video at 17. 58secs. Best wishes to you and your's, Stuart UK.
you saw that right. I saw it too.
The quick change toolpost isn't very rigid. That's why I don't use it much.
Good video Michel.This goes about the same for making a boring bar (15:37 ).Thank you for posting.
Thanks.
I will be very happy in the future to see the useless thread be used as some interesting part of a great project. Like a adjustable leg on a so so grinding tool holding thing.
Maybe, who knows?
Nice job and very infomative
Thanks.
Congrats on the new tool
Thanks.
Hey Michel,
How nice of that guy from the Netherlands. 😉
Nicely done at first👍🏻, but there is a small mistake.
The inserts should be slightly slanted.
From my memory 3 degrees.
If you have them in horizontally, the insert touches the cutting edge and the bottom.
You don't actually want that.
Have fun with it.
Greetings Dominic from the Netherlands
That's interesting to know. I did cut the point on the bottom side to prevent it from rubbing. But I will adapt the two flats on the shank to give it an angle.
@@Rustinox You will certainly succeed. You can also put a piece in your lathe with a hole in it and then put a tool in front of it and you can see it👍🏻
Nice job Michel. Of course your useless piece is not useless at all. It can be made in to a small machine jack for the mill. ATB regards from the UK
Good idea.
Great video rusty, keep'um coming.
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing. I've thought about trying to make some insert toolholders but wasn't sure if it would work.
It wirks very well. Go for it.
nice one Michel👍👍👍👍
did the white spirit work ok with the oil viscosity
regards
Kev
It did. I will make a follow up video one day.
There are nice people around the world who like help .
Kit from down under
Absolutely.
Great video Michel. I enjoy your approach to making stuff. Would also like to know if the white spirit works. I sometimes use a 50/50 mix of engine oil and kerosene (paraffin) and inexpensive option if a lot of coolant is needed. Kerosene is also good with aluminium. Doesn't smell too bad 🤭 Cheers Nobby
I have to use it more to know if the results are good, but I will give an update in an upcoming video.
Need a tool, make a tool! I try to do that when I come, but often it is easier, cheaper and faster to buy the chinese stuff. I needed a heavy boring bar (1") and internal threading bar (.75") recently, and I was able to get them from China relatively fast and cheap.
I noticed an awful lot of tool deflection in the last shot of cutting the threads after you reduced the diameter of the cutting tool.
I'd be careful with the white spirits, it's got a relatively low flash point (55C) compared to motor oil (200C+). Diluted, it's not likely a big deal, though.
The quick change toolpost isn't very rigid. That's why I don't use it much.
👍😎
Thanks.
Nice tooling rusty! Do you have any idea what the celtic 14 would cost brand new in the 60-70s?
Nope, no idea.
Good video. I'm not clear on what you used to clean your mill table. White Spirits? Hopefully not white gas (naphtha). It's very flammable, much more so than paint thinner. Two more questions, did you really make the bolt for the insert and why did you use the tool face down?
Indeed, white spirit, to make the oil a bit thinner. And yes, I really make the bolts to hold inserts.
@@Rustinox Just looked up the white spirits. Apparently its the same as paint thinner with more Toluene. Much safer than what we refer to as white gas in the US. I've never had any luck making a small screw like that plus no metric on my lathe.
Michel, for what it's worth, the modern version of the Dremel is not that good either in my experience. I am on my third as they have a habit of just blowing up for no apparent reason and the spindle bearings are not exactly ABEC quality.
Regards,
Preso
That's good to know. Thanks.
I think the shaper is getting its own back for you cannibalising it, that's why it didn't work, and you had to use the piece of 'rusty' steel instead. 🤣🤣
But the shaper had a brand new leadscrew implant :)
Your useless part can be turned into a machinist jack… just a thought.
That's a good idea.