You have gorgeous encyclia orchid there. And the others too. I haven’t looked at your other videos yet but if the plants all are as healthy as these- you are doing great. Can’t wait to see your other videos. Very organized and helpful. And though I love clay pots with plenty of holes, for some plants particularly phals or any other plant that you need to keep them more precisely watered, clear pots are terrific. Of course the humidity really helps keep inorganic media jungle happy as long as they have plenty of air movement. You seem to have yours figured out for your environment, but for those just starting out, be careful on getting pots too large. In the many years since my first messing a bit with orchids in the early 70s, I have yet to kill or slow down an orchid in too small a pot but have surely killed or seriously slowed down a number by putting them in too big a pot and forgetting when watering them like everyone else. Same with African Violets. I have grown 16” diameter violets and some huge phals too and then got the brilliant idea, let’s put it in a 2-3+ sizes up pot which usually means they are too deep too. The thought was always so I wouldn’t have to disturb them 4-5 years - big mistake. RUTRO! Unless it’s a Vanda teak basket with large charcoal or Orchiata Super - I get in trouble with them. They end up either too dry not wanting to drown them, or way too wet trying to get the upper layers wet enough. The purpose I was trying to do always ends up exactly the opposite. Orchids just don’t care to be sitting in this vast amount of empty media. I think of them like being in your 14x15’ den and all cozy Vs sitting in this huge wide open room 18’ tall ceilings, and a 20x30’ room - you just don’t feel secure in all that space. Unless you have a growing issue, and you certainly don’t on this plant: other than getting it to apple green, not so much dark green, ie looks like it’s getting heavier nitrogen than needed. That said moving it to higher light, it may eat that up and be just right. I feel most orchids are just about right at the color of a Granny Smith apple. But that is a lovely, lovely plant. Personally I don’t think this plant needs repotting for another two years depending on where the new puesedobulb(s) come out. In fact, if a plant is doing well, and is in inorganic matter as this one is doing - I’m not sure I would repot it at all. I would just clip a 4” pot level with the “mother” pot and fill with exact same media and let new bulbs grow into the next pot. I have used those clear pots, burn any needed holes with a wood burner tool. Do outside, the smell inside is a bit toxic. This way I can maintain my nice healthy mother plant and produce a number of divisions and cut loose when you have 4-5 bulbs in the division pot. It really depends on your thought process. If I want a specimen, I would repot very slowly, only enough room in a new pot for no more than 2 years growth, maybe even less. It takes more time and trouble but the plant remains safe. They need to have filled up the pot of the prior one top to bottom. You can’t forget same issue happens if you take them from a 4” diameter x 4” deep pot but you put it in a 6” deep which is okay if the 4” is packed but if the new pot you choose is all if a sudden 8-10+ deep. Then the new roots are swimming in all that wet stagnant media and there isn’t anything to take up the moisture. If I have to use a deep pot, then I fill up the bottom with white shipping peanuts. Roots seem to like them and it’s much better than using bark unless it’s Orchiata Super where there is lots of air down in the bottom. I don’t like to use those mixes with everything you can think of, or worse sphagnum moss. Orchid roots want lots of air circulation, if they are sitting in inches and inches of stagnant media - they will most likely have issues before long. I haven’t tried but have seen others turn a net basket or clay pot upside down to take up room to make it a better size. It’s just easier to hang the plant bare root on a S hook and water it every day until you can get something to mount or pot it correctly. But that’s just me. The white peanuts or Orchiata super or Power Plus (one size down) also work to fill up but allow root growth in too large a diameter pot too. But anything that’s so much that you cut the roots off from fresh, humidified, buoyant air can cause issues and is well away from what the plants want in their natural, native environment. Vandas in particular really want to be climbing on a tree with lots of air moving around it - that though it doesn’t always suit us. If you can use a large enough media, get a great environment going then you can do it. Another idea is to use a basket like the octagonal shaped black plastic baskets and just set the pot into the next size up so the roots are never disturbed- they just get more room to spread out as they grow. The holes are larger and don’t crimp the roots like some net baskets. Some were really meant for pond plants and keeping the fish from chewing and tearing them up. The roots try to go out and are getting larger and fatter and then they hit the side and are trapped and the tip dies. Some will go down, others are bound and determined to go out. The ones I’m talking about are at this website in the states Kelly’s Korners - her prices on these 8 sided big holes sides are as good as you will see. If being in the UK you can’t find, maybe she will call the manufacturer and find who sells in the UK for you. www.kkorchid.com/pots-and-containers/Ultimate-Orchid-Baskets.html
They look very healthy; I love when the bulbs are so plump! Those can be tricky and yes always thirsty; I had to add some moss over my lecca and even add some coconut fiber! (mine grow outside)The heat here in Florida has been intense 🥵. Lovely video 💕🌱👏🏻
Some orchids like dendrobium kingianum need a winter temperature drop below 14*C or 57.2*F to set flower spikes. Your Encyclia may need something similar to flower.
Your format is excellent. It is so helpful to see repot videos paired with outcome. I really appreciate how you add updates or ‘one week later’ segments at the end. Thank you so much for posting your videos.
Yours looks so healthy and beautiful 😍. I have one and what I've lear ned is that they love alot of sunlight i give mine 8 hours of direct sunlight each day and it love it.
Mine is blooming now. Cold window west facing in the winter (I'm in Montana), and east in the summer, sitting on a radiant heated floor in the winter.. I find if I keep their feet too wet the bloom stalks rot before developing. Very discouraging to learn that trial and error but one is blooming so super happy!
Thats a shame, glad you got it to flower in the end though! mine bloomed here, ruclips.net/video/XHHvj-ksOck/видео.html from 24:23, with 3 flower spikes. Constantly moist, but I keep it warmer, cold and wet is often a bad thing for warm growers.
Gorgeous! If my little alata pulls through I’ll send you a piece as soon as it’s big enough :) it’s not thrilled with the transition but seems to have stabilized now!
Very nice orchid. I don't think it would be one to work for me as my temperatures are on the cooler side. Especially in the winter. Fingers crossed that this will bloom for you. I do like those bulbs as the bottom they are fat and shiny. Have a great day.
Wow, your cordigera is so huge! And here mine is in an 8cm pot... Thank you so much for this video! I've said it before, I know, but it's great to see a specific care video for this orchid. So many people say to treat encyclias like cattleyas, and it really doesn't seem to be the case that they take the same care. It's always frustrating to look up how to care for your orchid and just see 'treat it like this other orchid' recommended.
Yours will get big soon, don't worry, they are so vigorous once they can get their roots into some moisture! Little water pigs 🐖 I definitely agree, I saw a video once saying that Encyclia are in the Cattleya family and should be treated like them, drying lots, not like Oncidiums. But mine is more of an Oncidium than Catt 😆There are definite nuances for some species 🙂
Annabel!!! 🎈🎈🎈🎈🎈 It has wonderfully progressed and hopefully it will bloom. 🎈 Mine is still 3 pseudobulbs (quite young and recently acquired). 🎈 I also like encyclias and has a big specimen of the Alata x Pheonesia, bulbs not as big as your cordigera. 🎈You give me hope of looking forward to fat yummy bulbs, someday!! 🎈Thank you!! 🎈Hope to see this bloom and the spring repot!! 🎈
I definitely find it useful to scour through peoples updates more than the actual repots, so I hope this helps unify them! As I get more 'repot history' built up on youtube, this sort of update will be easier to do for more things 🙂
I didn't mean lacking for you, just in general with repot videos. 'Here's a repot'... okay, that's great, but the real test is what is it like 6 months later? a year later? 2 years? I'm so glad you're tackling this, and having it in one video does make it so much easier. 🙂
You are right in providing the updates. Seeing how well it has progressed has really helped me understand their needs. What a prolific grower it is...what did I get myself into ? lol Mine is only a 3 inch pot , but I’m getting my self watering pots and deciding which growing medium to use. I bought 2 orchids ( young, not blooming , very nice growth) ; the other is labeled Epic Jackie Bright “Hilo Stars”. It looks like the E. Cordigera but the flowers are pictured as an abundant mass of yellow-orange. I haven’t researched this one yet. Thanks for the help, I’ll be a studios viewer(:
The progress is lovely. And a great idea with synthic! I have been thinking of adding some microfiber for other plants (experiments all over) because the top layer of leca can indeed get quite dry quite fast. And I think I also prefer the top layer of pebbles. I do hope it blooms for you soon! and I also prefer the fatter pseudobulbs and the leaves are quite lovely on this one too!
Adding microfiber in to act as wicks can definitely help! That dry top layer, it's the one thing that makes LECA hard to work with for me! Yay, love a good experiment 😀 And anything planty thats fat and shiny wins me every time 😆 Confessed Plant Feeder 😁
Becky Connor 😁ok. I don’t know where you are but Im in Jacksonville Fl and I grow mine with the cattleyas just water more often. Same light heat and humidity.
@@TheOrchidRoom THAT DANGED POND, LOL & @J TORRES , I would think in Fla. I would think much easier to get, lol lately, I've been ordering them all from Fla..... I'm in Nebraska, can barely keep my vandas outside for a few months, brought some cattleya out, they all got burnt 😡 I have a room with large windows on south side, sliding glass door on west side, a few grow lights and will b getting the heater back out soon,seems fall is coming sooner than later rhis year .... brrrrrrr
Ah. .. mine's not doing well without the synthec... I just moved it to a warmer / brighter spot a couple weeks ago .. we'll repot soon as I see new roots... Thanks for the tip awesome video
Hi Annabelle, now that the summer is nearly gone and we experience lower temperatures which bring condensation especially if you have a heater on. I experienced condensation drops of water off the roof of my conservatory which the dropped onto my orchids, resulting in a few of them getting crown rot. Just wanted to alert you to this as zthis will be your first winter in your new home. Love the videos btw.
Hi Jackie! So far I don't get any condensation in mine, but the heater is on at night. I am extremely wary of any temperatures below 18C for my collection anyway so we probably don't get the same temperature drops since I'm trying to keep it warm and have fans circulating air? I'm going to be heating the room all winter. Thanks for the heads up!
I have heard some people report a winter rest is required, but I suspect it's more an overall seasonal temperature difference? Either that or I just wasn't giving enough light, but I had it under grow lights that Vandas were blooming under. Thanks for sharing, I hope it will bloom, wonder why it's formed this sheath now... all my winter blooming phals are spiking after the move, with the cooler night temps, so I think I confused them all!
The Orchid Room mine has never been under very high light and it still blooms annually. I have naturally cold winters, so that might be it. I’ve never cut watering back significantly in winter either.
Michael suggested he thinks it's a day length thing, and it could totally be that as it didn't have much day length variation under lights! We will see!
The Orchid Room when I look up info online it’s all over the place, winter rest, no winter rest, I don’t know, lol. Seems you can only take what’s online as opinion.
Yeah for sure 🤣 It could be that it doesn't really need a winter rest, but it needs some cues to tell it that it's spring. So longer day length, warmer temperatures (increased rainfall?) etc. Maybe any one factor on it's own is enough to tell it its spring and to trigger blooming, so there is alot of confusion on it? 😕🤔 Purely speculating honestly as clearly I havent done whatever it needs!
I hope you get it to bloom ... those shiny bulbs though 😅 maybe someone else already mentioned what I’m about to ask... sorry if it’s a repeat thought... does it need a fertilizing rest to bloom? If I missed you mention that, again, sorry 🌸
I think distinct seasonal changes are probably required, which it wasn't getting before as grown under LEDs with a stable photoperiod and more controlled temps 🙂
Mine has a very strong floral fragrance I can’t detect any chocolate like some people say. I have a Epicyclia Serena O’neill and this one, like yours, I can’t make it bloom even though it grows really nice pseudobulbs. I keep it with my cattleyas and no blooms so far... maybe it needs a cool drop or a dry rest? I will stop watering it as often from now to see since we are close to automn here in Canada. Take you for the update
You're the second person to say floral, not chocolate. And orchid species says it also! I think for these types they need something to tell it that it's spring. And I haven't been altering photoperiods much when it was under lights, and my temperatures were more controlled, so maybe it just didn't know! My iwanagara failed to bloom also - that's another spring bloomer. So I hope that's it 🤷♀️🤞🤞
Chocolate? Everyone's nose is different, but it has a strong, sweet floral fragrance to me. Expect it to bloom in the spring, around April or May. I don't think a temperature drop is necessarily what triggers blooming, rather an increase in day length. I always see them available here at around the same time in bloom and my Epc Serena O'Neill (half cordigera) blooms at almost the same time every spring (within about 10 days year to year). So you may need to give it a period with shorter days to trigger it to bloom but, I suspect, it will probably bloom of its own accord regardless.
Orchid species says floral too! Who started the chocolate thing?! I see...So that could totally be it, as I grew it under lights before, 12 hour photoperiod winter, 14 hours in summer. Maybe that just wasn't enough difference! Does it form sheaths then sit on them for a while typically? It will have been getting 16 hours ish over summer in the conservatory, so I guess it could also be that increase that has prompted it to make some sheaths now. Thanks for the info Michael!
@@TheOrchidRoom oh yeah, those sheaths will sit there until spring. It is possible it could produce a second set of growths in the meantime but I don't find it especially prone to doing that.
@@TheOrchidRoom I think it was Miss Orchid Girl. She includes it in her video 'Four Orchids Which Smell Like Chocolate', saying that it smells like dark chocolate to her. To be fair, dark chocolate can, depending on the cocoa beans, have some pretty strong floral or fruity notes, so that may be why it reminds her of dark chocolate? It's also possible that different colour varieties of the cordigera have different fragrances.
@@karmiya-plays I know that Missorchidgirl has said it in lots of videos, but it's also commonly referenced in forums 🤷♀️ Maybe it all orginated with her. To me, the sharry baby doesn't smell like chocolate either, it smells like vanilla essence. Fragrance is so personal. But there are several other comments saying to them, it is sweet and floral 🤷♀️
@@TheOrchidRoom Ah, I'm not familiar with orchid forums ^^;; I mainly have seen a few websites claim that, and then reference her videos. I am sort of hoping for a floral dark chocolate feel, but who knows. As long as it smells nice! The flowers are so beautiful that they can smell like whatever they want (as long as it's not nasty)! Ooh, that's for the tip on the sharry baby. I was interested in that one for a while due to the fragrance, but the size of the plant and flower spikes turned me off. If it doesn't even smell like chocolate, then what's the point??
Hi Annabel, I have tried to find some information on Synthic. The UK website does not have a lot of information. Can you provide some information on this inorganic product. I would like to go to semi hydro full inorganic, I have used Hytron clay balls and mixed it with vermiculite. However feels too dry and so I have to add some sphagnum moss in. However the vermiculite is quite small so it leaks out of the slots when I water. I will repot again (less than a month) to incorporate a mesh to stop the vermiculite from escaping.
Hi Kennith! I will link the Manufacturers website here with more info: epiweb.se/support.htm . I also did rather alot of tests on it, so you may be interested to check those out. Here is an update I did on my miltoniopsis in synthic: ruclips.net/video/-OY-wAiifCY/видео.html and the original repot and test of synthic: ruclips.net/video/-z6_tWU1zc0/видео.html . Here is the link to the inorganic media characterisation where I measured water retention and pH: ruclips.net/video/fEo-YOAGdi8/видео.html . I have quite a few other videos with it in also, including miltoniopsis repots into pure synthic, or just using it as wicks, or including it in pots with my vanda suavis to increase moisture distribution at the top of the pot. I use it quite a bit 🙂 depending on what you want it for, you could also chop up microfiber, but it doesn't hold quite so much moisture. As a long wick to distribute water from the reservoir to the top it does fine though. Hope that helps!
@@TheOrchidRoom Thank you for the information. I have watched most of the media videos. They are very helpful, as always I appreciate all the effort you have made.
"Cattleya alliance" - I so dislike the "alliance" terms that become popular many years ago and have been propagated. One reason is that such terms can be misleading, as you have found out. It's probably not realistic to expect the mass market to adopt scientific names, but yet I hope. That's why I use the proper term Laeliinae, to try and convince people to not think "Cattleya" when dealing with some of these plants. And that is also one of the problems with the updated now overly-large genus "Cattleya" - there are real differences in culture between many of now-sections of that genus. Regarding your plant, it looks wonderful if a bit dark green. Glad to hear you decided to up the light level (take it slowly.)
Hi Dan! I do think you're right and that the blanket labelling means some nuances are missed- I feel the same way for the blanket Vanda term used now, when the care requirements between the different groups of 'Vanda' is starkly different. I know it's done on DNA now, and that this is only just being completed, but I do think the region and care similarities were more evident in the first naming- Neofinetia vs Vanda for example 🤷♀️ In those cases, the original name gives us much more care info. I know Encyclia is still a seperate group, but it's often chucked in with Cattleya in care. Difficult one, I can see why they are keen to group them, but also why it is more useful to make the distinctions. I will try to take more care to distinguish the naming from now on- it can get quite confusing!
I am very inclined not to, I love big plants! Just need to find a very big pot! Yikes, this one has been hard enough to even get to make a sheath, no way I want to set it back more 🙈
She can't get much more light, my Vandas have been blooming consistently under the light level it has been kept under 🤷♀️ I suspect it is actually a seasonal variation in day length thing- plenty of people are blooming them in lower light than mine!
You have gorgeous encyclia orchid there. And the others too. I haven’t looked at your other videos yet but if the plants all are as healthy as these- you are doing great. Can’t wait to see your other videos. Very organized and helpful. And though I love clay pots with plenty of holes, for some plants particularly phals or any other plant that you need to keep them more precisely watered, clear pots are terrific. Of course the humidity really helps keep inorganic media jungle happy as long as they have plenty of air movement.
You seem to have yours figured out for your environment, but for those just starting out, be careful on getting pots too large. In the many years since my first messing a bit with orchids in the early 70s, I have yet to kill or slow down an orchid in too small a pot but have surely killed or seriously slowed down a number by putting them in too big a pot and forgetting when watering them like everyone else. Same with African Violets. I have grown 16” diameter violets and some huge phals too and then got the brilliant idea, let’s put it in a 2-3+ sizes up pot which usually means they are too deep too. The thought was always so I wouldn’t have to disturb them 4-5 years - big mistake. RUTRO! Unless it’s a Vanda teak basket with large charcoal or Orchiata Super - I get in trouble with them. They end up either too dry not wanting to drown them, or way too wet trying to get the upper layers wet enough. The purpose I was trying to do always ends up exactly the opposite.
Orchids just don’t care to be sitting in this vast amount of empty media. I think of them like being in your 14x15’ den and all cozy Vs sitting in this huge wide open room 18’ tall ceilings, and a 20x30’ room - you just don’t feel secure in all that space. Unless you have a growing issue, and you certainly don’t on this plant: other than getting it to apple green, not so much dark green, ie looks like it’s getting heavier nitrogen than needed. That said moving it to higher light, it may eat that up and be just right. I feel most orchids are just about right at the color of a Granny Smith apple. But that is a lovely, lovely plant. Personally I don’t think this plant needs repotting for another two years depending on where the new puesedobulb(s) come out. In fact, if a plant is doing well, and is in inorganic matter as this one is doing - I’m not sure I would repot it at all. I would just clip a 4” pot level with the “mother” pot and fill with exact same media and let new bulbs grow into the next pot. I have used those clear pots, burn any needed holes with a wood burner tool. Do outside, the smell inside is a bit toxic. This way I can maintain my nice healthy mother plant and produce a number of divisions and cut loose when you have 4-5 bulbs in the division pot. It really depends on your thought process.
If I want a specimen, I would repot very slowly, only enough room in a new pot for no more than 2 years growth, maybe even less. It takes more time and trouble but the plant remains safe. They need to have filled up the pot of the prior one top to bottom. You can’t forget same issue happens if you take them from a 4” diameter x 4” deep pot but you put it in a 6” deep which is okay if the 4” is packed but if the new pot you choose is all if a sudden 8-10+ deep. Then the new roots are swimming in all that wet stagnant media and there isn’t anything to take up the moisture. If I have to use a deep pot, then I fill up the bottom with white shipping peanuts. Roots seem to like them and it’s much better than using bark unless it’s Orchiata Super where there is lots of air down in the bottom. I don’t like to use those mixes with everything you can think of, or worse sphagnum moss. Orchid roots want lots of air circulation, if they are sitting in inches and inches of stagnant media - they will most likely have issues before long. I haven’t tried but have seen others turn a net basket or clay pot upside down to take up room to make it a better size. It’s just easier to hang the plant bare root on a S hook and water it every day until you can get something to mount or pot it correctly. But that’s just me. The white peanuts or Orchiata super or Power Plus (one size down) also work to fill up but allow root growth in too large a diameter pot too. But anything that’s so much that you cut the roots off from fresh, humidified, buoyant air can cause issues and is well away from what the plants want in their natural, native environment. Vandas in particular really want to be climbing on a tree with lots of air moving around it - that though it doesn’t always suit us. If you can use a large enough media, get a great environment going then you can do it.
Another idea is to use a basket like the octagonal shaped black plastic baskets and just set the pot into the next size up so the roots are never disturbed- they just get more room to spread out as they grow. The holes are larger and don’t crimp the roots like some net baskets. Some were really meant for pond plants and keeping the fish from chewing and tearing them up. The roots try to go out and are getting larger and fatter and then they hit the side and are trapped and the tip dies. Some will go down, others are bound and determined to go out.
The ones I’m talking about are at this website in the states Kelly’s Korners - her prices on these 8 sided big holes sides are as good as you will see. If being in the UK you can’t find, maybe she will call the manufacturer and find who sells in the UK for you. www.kkorchid.com/pots-and-containers/Ultimate-Orchid-Baskets.html
What a beautiful orchid!!😮❤🪴🤗
They look very healthy; I love when the bulbs are so plump! Those can be tricky and yes always thirsty; I had to add some moss over my lecca and even add some coconut fiber! (mine grow outside)The heat here in Florida has been intense 🥵. Lovely video 💕🌱👏🏻
Some orchids like dendrobium kingianum need a winter temperature drop below 14*C or 57.2*F to set flower spikes. Your Encyclia may need something similar to flower.
love the updates to previous plants! so helpful to see progression and adjustments to the media.
Thanks Norman! 🙂💗
Your format is excellent. It is so helpful to see repot videos paired with outcome. I really appreciate how you add updates or ‘one week later’ segments at the end. Thank you so much for posting your videos.
Love, love, love 💘, those pseudo bulbs! They are beautiful!
So plump 💗🙂
Thank you I love this. But where have you gone I miss your video's!
Yours looks so healthy and beautiful 😍. I have one and what I've lear
ned is that they love alot of sunlight i give mine 8 hours of direct sunlight each day and it love it.
I’ve been looking for a good, thorough encyclia video, and this one is great! Thank you
Mine is blooming now. Cold window west facing in the winter (I'm in Montana), and east in the summer, sitting on a radiant heated floor in the winter.. I find if I keep their feet too wet the bloom stalks rot before developing. Very discouraging to learn that trial and error but one is blooming so super happy!
Thats a shame, glad you got it to flower in the end though! mine bloomed here, ruclips.net/video/XHHvj-ksOck/видео.html from 24:23, with 3 flower spikes. Constantly moist, but I keep it warmer, cold and wet is often a bad thing for warm growers.
Gorgeous! If my little alata pulls through I’ll send you a piece as soon as it’s big enough :) it’s not thrilled with the transition but seems to have stabilized now!
Aww thankyou!! I'm sending wishes for a speedy recovery little alata (not because you offered me some though, just for you!!) 💗🙂
Loved seeing the progression 🥰 she is lovely Annabel! Now, cordigera, BLOOM!
Please bloom 💗💗💗🙂
@@TheOrchidRoom yes, please - pretty please 🥰
Very nice orchid. I don't think it would be one to work for me as my temperatures are on the cooler side. Especially in the winter. Fingers crossed that this will bloom for you. I do like those bulbs as the bottom they are fat and shiny. Have a great day.
Wow, your cordigera is so huge! And here mine is in an 8cm pot... Thank you so much for this video! I've said it before, I know, but it's great to see a specific care video for this orchid. So many people say to treat encyclias like cattleyas, and it really doesn't seem to be the case that they take the same care. It's always frustrating to look up how to care for your orchid and just see 'treat it like this other orchid' recommended.
Yours will get big soon, don't worry, they are so vigorous once they can get their roots into some moisture! Little water pigs 🐖 I definitely agree, I saw a video once saying that Encyclia are in the Cattleya family and should be treated like them, drying lots, not like Oncidiums. But mine is more of an Oncidium than Catt 😆There are definite nuances for some species 🙂
Annabel!!! 🎈🎈🎈🎈🎈 It has wonderfully progressed and hopefully it will bloom. 🎈 Mine is still 3 pseudobulbs (quite young and recently acquired). 🎈 I also like encyclias and has a big specimen of the Alata x Pheonesia, bulbs not as big as your cordigera. 🎈You give me hope of looking forward to fat yummy bulbs, someday!! 🎈Thank you!! 🎈Hope to see this bloom and the spring repot!! 🎈
Hi Anishka! Thanks 🙂 I just love Encyclia too, those round shiny bulbs! I hope mine will bloom soon also 🙂 I hope yours blooms too soon! 💗
Yes, this is something that I think has been lacking! 'That was then, this is now'.
I definitely find it useful to scour through peoples updates more than the actual repots, so I hope this helps unify them! As I get more 'repot history' built up on youtube, this sort of update will be easier to do for more things 🙂
I didn't mean lacking for you, just in general with repot videos. 'Here's a repot'... okay, that's great, but the real test is what is it like 6 months later? a year later? 2 years?
I'm so glad you're tackling this, and having it in one video does make it so much easier. 🙂
Beautiful orchids! Maybe it needs a combination of humidity and more natural light?
You are right in providing the updates. Seeing how well it has progressed has really helped me understand their needs. What a prolific grower it is...what did I get myself into ? lol Mine is only a 3 inch pot , but I’m getting my self watering pots and deciding which growing medium to use. I bought 2 orchids ( young, not blooming , very nice growth) ; the other is labeled Epic Jackie Bright “Hilo Stars”. It looks like the E. Cordigera but the flowers are pictured as an abundant mass of yellow-orange. I haven’t researched this one yet. Thanks for the help, I’ll be a studios viewer(:
They do get very big! You will have a fat bulbed monster in no time at all! 😀 Thankyou 🙂💗
After I see your video on Instagram I'm going to get one for me... I'm in love with those bulbs OMG huge green and so healthy!!!!!
Oh they are just the best! Bonus, famous fragrance! Mine has 4 spikes now so I can't wait to smell it for myself 🙂
Gorgeous
The progress is lovely. And a great idea with synthic! I have been thinking of adding some microfiber for other plants (experiments all over) because the top layer of leca can indeed get quite dry quite fast. And I think I also prefer the top layer of pebbles. I do hope it blooms for you soon! and I also prefer the fatter pseudobulbs and the leaves are quite lovely on this one too!
Adding microfiber in to act as wicks can definitely help! That dry top layer, it's the one thing that makes LECA hard to work with for me! Yay, love a good experiment 😀 And anything planty thats fat and shiny wins me every time 😆 Confessed Plant Feeder 😁
Thank you, Ive been on the curb wondering how to pot mine up, recently aquired about 5 of them🤩😉😉😊
OMG wanna share? 😅
@@borinken_foliage8003 lol, I'd like to at least bloom them first😊 maybe next year?
Becky Connor 😁ok. I don’t know where you are but Im in Jacksonville Fl and I grow mine with the cattleyas just water more often. Same light heat and humidity.
Yay for orchid swaps! Wish I could join in, damn the big ocean separating us!
@@TheOrchidRoom THAT DANGED POND, LOL
& @J TORRES , I would think in Fla. I would think much easier to get, lol lately, I've been ordering them all from Fla.....
I'm in Nebraska, can barely keep my vandas outside for a few months, brought some cattleya out, they all got burnt 😡 I have a room with large windows on south side, sliding glass door on west side, a few grow lights and will b getting the heater back out soon,seems fall is coming sooner than later rhis year .... brrrrrrr
Ah. .. mine's not doing well without the synthec... I just moved it to a warmer / brighter spot a couple weeks ago .. we'll repot soon as I see new roots... Thanks for the tip awesome video
Thanks Jane! I hope yours bounces back soon, they are quite vigourous once they get enough moisture I've found 🙂
So plump!!!! Love it!!!!
Hi Annabelle, now that the summer is nearly gone and we experience lower temperatures which bring condensation especially if you have a heater on. I experienced condensation drops of water off the roof of my conservatory which the dropped onto my orchids, resulting in a few of them getting crown rot. Just wanted to alert you to this as zthis will be your first winter in your new home. Love the videos btw.
Hi Jackie! So far I don't get any condensation in mine, but the heater is on at night. I am extremely wary of any temperatures below 18C for my collection anyway so we probably don't get the same temperature drops since I'm trying to keep it warm and have fans circulating air? I'm going to be heating the room all winter. Thanks for the heads up!
Yeah I heat my conservatory as well with a temperature controlled fan heater which cuts in when it goes below 18 degrees.
@@jackiehill6557 Ah I see, so far nothing, will have to see what winter brings. May be worth investing in a dehumidifier.
🤞🏾Hope it will bloom
Thankyou! I do too! 🤞🤞🤞💗
Mine blooms in spring. I suspect cooler winter temps might trigger blooming, but that’s just a guess.
I have heard some people report a winter rest is required, but I suspect it's more an overall seasonal temperature difference? Either that or I just wasn't giving enough light, but I had it under grow lights that Vandas were blooming under. Thanks for sharing, I hope it will bloom, wonder why it's formed this sheath now... all my winter blooming phals are spiking after the move, with the cooler night temps, so I think I confused them all!
The Orchid Room mine has never been under very high light and it still blooms annually. I have naturally cold winters, so that might be it. I’ve never cut watering back significantly in winter either.
Michael suggested he thinks it's a day length thing, and it could totally be that as it didn't have much day length variation under lights! We will see!
The Orchid Room when I look up info online it’s all over the place, winter rest, no winter rest, I don’t know, lol. Seems you can only take what’s online as opinion.
Yeah for sure 🤣 It could be that it doesn't really need a winter rest, but it needs some cues to tell it that it's spring. So longer day length, warmer temperatures (increased rainfall?) etc. Maybe any one factor on it's own is enough to tell it its spring and to trigger blooming, so there is alot of confusion on it? 😕🤔 Purely speculating honestly as clearly I havent done whatever it needs!
I hope you get it to bloom ... those shiny bulbs though 😅 maybe someone else already mentioned what I’m about to ask... sorry if it’s a repeat thought... does it need a fertilizing rest to bloom? If I missed you mention that, again, sorry 🌸
I think distinct seasonal changes are probably required, which it wasn't getting before as grown under LEDs with a stable photoperiod and more controlled temps 🙂
Mine has a very strong floral fragrance I can’t detect any chocolate like some people say. I have a Epicyclia Serena O’neill and this one, like yours, I can’t make it bloom even though it grows really nice pseudobulbs. I keep it with my cattleyas and no blooms so far... maybe it needs a cool drop or a dry rest? I will stop watering it as often from now to see since we are close to automn here in Canada. Take you for the update
You're the second person to say floral, not chocolate. And orchid species says it also! I think for these types they need something to tell it that it's spring. And I haven't been altering photoperiods much when it was under lights, and my temperatures were more controlled, so maybe it just didn't know! My iwanagara failed to bloom also - that's another spring bloomer. So I hope that's it 🤷♀️🤞🤞
Chocolate? Everyone's nose is different, but it has a strong, sweet floral fragrance to me. Expect it to bloom in the spring, around April or May. I don't think a temperature drop is necessarily what triggers blooming, rather an increase in day length. I always see them available here at around the same time in bloom and my Epc Serena O'Neill (half cordigera) blooms at almost the same time every spring (within about 10 days year to year). So you may need to give it a period with shorter days to trigger it to bloom but, I suspect, it will probably bloom of its own accord regardless.
Orchid species says floral too! Who started the chocolate thing?! I see...So that could totally be it, as I grew it under lights before, 12 hour photoperiod winter, 14 hours in summer. Maybe that just wasn't enough difference! Does it form sheaths then sit on them for a while typically? It will have been getting 16 hours ish over summer in the conservatory, so I guess it could also be that increase that has prompted it to make some sheaths now. Thanks for the info Michael!
@@TheOrchidRoom oh yeah, those sheaths will sit there until spring. It is possible it could produce a second set of growths in the meantime but I don't find it especially prone to doing that.
@@TheOrchidRoom I think it was Miss Orchid Girl. She includes it in her video 'Four Orchids Which Smell Like Chocolate', saying that it smells like dark chocolate to her. To be fair, dark chocolate can, depending on the cocoa beans, have some pretty strong floral or fruity notes, so that may be why it reminds her of dark chocolate? It's also possible that different colour varieties of the cordigera have different fragrances.
@@karmiya-plays I know that Missorchidgirl has said it in lots of videos, but it's also commonly referenced in forums 🤷♀️ Maybe it all orginated with her. To me, the sharry baby doesn't smell like chocolate either, it smells like vanilla essence. Fragrance is so personal. But there are several other comments saying to them, it is sweet and floral 🤷♀️
@@TheOrchidRoom Ah, I'm not familiar with orchid forums ^^;; I mainly have seen a few websites claim that, and then reference her videos. I am sort of hoping for a floral dark chocolate feel, but who knows. As long as it smells nice! The flowers are so beautiful that they can smell like whatever they want (as long as it's not nasty)! Ooh, that's for the tip on the sharry baby. I was interested in that one for a while due to the fragrance, but the size of the plant and flower spikes turned me off. If it doesn't even smell like chocolate, then what's the point??
Hi Annabel, I have tried to find some information on Synthic. The UK website does not have a lot of information. Can you provide some information on this inorganic product.
I would like to go to semi hydro full inorganic, I have used Hytron clay balls and mixed it with vermiculite. However feels too dry and so I have to add some sphagnum moss in. However the vermiculite is quite small so it leaks out of the slots when I water. I will repot again (less than a month) to incorporate a mesh to stop the vermiculite from escaping.
Hi Kennith!
I will link the Manufacturers website here with more info: epiweb.se/support.htm . I also did rather alot of tests on it, so you may be interested to check those out. Here is an update I did on my miltoniopsis in synthic: ruclips.net/video/-OY-wAiifCY/видео.html and the original repot and test of synthic: ruclips.net/video/-z6_tWU1zc0/видео.html . Here is the link to the inorganic media characterisation where I measured water retention and pH: ruclips.net/video/fEo-YOAGdi8/видео.html . I have quite a few other videos with it in also, including miltoniopsis repots into pure synthic, or just using it as wicks, or including it in pots with my vanda suavis to increase moisture distribution at the top of the pot. I use it quite a bit 🙂 depending on what you want it for, you could also chop up microfiber, but it doesn't hold quite so much moisture. As a long wick to distribute water from the reservoir to the top it does fine though. Hope that helps!
@@TheOrchidRoom Thank you for the information. I have watched most of the media videos. They are very helpful, as always I appreciate all the effort you have made.
B👍
I just got a brassavola flagellaris because its supposed to smell like hot chocolate.
I was reading up on this one! You'll have to let me know if it does!! 😀
@@TheOrchidRoom will do, I like the pendant foliage look too
"Cattleya alliance" - I so dislike the "alliance" terms that become popular many years ago and have been propagated. One reason is that such terms can be misleading, as you have found out. It's probably not realistic to expect the mass market to adopt scientific names, but yet I hope. That's why I use the proper term Laeliinae, to try and convince people to not think "Cattleya" when dealing with some of these plants. And that is also one of the problems with the updated now overly-large genus "Cattleya" - there are real differences in culture between many of now-sections of that genus.
Regarding your plant, it looks wonderful if a bit dark green. Glad to hear you decided to up the light level (take it slowly.)
Hi Dan! I do think you're right and that the blanket labelling means some nuances are missed- I feel the same way for the blanket Vanda term used now, when the care requirements between the different groups of 'Vanda' is starkly different. I know it's done on DNA now, and that this is only just being completed, but I do think the region and care similarities were more evident in the first naming- Neofinetia vs Vanda for example 🤷♀️ In those cases, the original name gives us much more care info. I know Encyclia is still a seperate group, but it's often chucked in with Cattleya in care. Difficult one, I can see why they are keen to group them, but also why it is more useful to make the distinctions. I will try to take more care to distinguish the naming from now on- it can get quite confusing!
You've got to love those fat bulbs 🥰
I like fat bulbs and I cannot lie 💗😁
Don't divide it. I did and it took 2 years to bloom again. Mine blooms in good bright light.
I am very inclined not to, I love big plants! Just need to find a very big pot! Yikes, this one has been hard enough to even get to make a sheath, no way I want to set it back more 🙈
it´s a light problem, she needs more light
She can't get much more light, my Vandas have been blooming consistently under the light level it has been kept under 🤷♀️ I suspect it is actually a seasonal variation in day length thing- plenty of people are blooming them in lower light than mine!
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