Peter This Is How it Works. I've Been A mechanic 49 years. It's The Same With Any Other tapered Wheel bearing. Put The Wheel On You Tighten The Nut So There is No Play When You Grab The Tire At 12 O'clock And 6 O'clock But You Can Still Move The Washer Behind The Nut With A Screw Driver. Thats How it Works. That's How it Was Taught When I Went To Vocational School In 1972 And 1973. Ask Any Old Time Mechanic. That Fixed Automobiles Back before Sealed Bearings Any Car or Truck Or Anything With A Inner And Outer tapered Wheel Bearing. I've Done It Thousands And Thousands Of Times Since i Was 17 Years Old. It Works No Torque Wrench Needed. Remove All Play But Still Able To Move Washer With Screw Driver. Period
I love this new adventure you're taking us on. You do like to teach and I think that's why you're not pressing the eject on this van. You are welcome to pull the cord and escape any time but remember, you are providing content few others have. We see the outside reviews but who gets to see it like you show it.. even if this is like the old 4runner unsealed bearings you pack by hand, or similar to 50 year old American made makes, it's still great to see your process and we can all use parts of what we learn. Everyone does it different but we are here for how you do you.
The spec for the 2WD pickup is 34 N-m to SEAT the bearings in the races, turn the hub seven times, then back the nut off until "hand tight", then check the preload with a pull scale. So 29 N-m is definitely in the ballpark.
Standard Toyota procedure for adjusting front wheel bearings is to go to the specified torque while rotating wheel and then loosen the nut off and tighten by hand as far as will go (not ratchet or wrench). I find this generally results in a slightly loose bearing. Most reliable method for Toyota is to just adjust the nut with the wheel still on the car, just tighten it until the slop goes away.
I used to repack those cone bearings every 40,000km with high temp grease & new seal on the 1987 you needed a spring scale and tighten till breakaway torque ie stationary to rotate is 1.1kg. I'm afraid 😨 you may have over torqued this and it will wear out the bearings early.
Thanks for this video. Now I know how to check. I will have to loosen up the bearing nut a bit on my tacoma. It's on a bit too tight on mine right now. Also I had wish you would show us how you repack it. I'm doing mine right now and is confused as to how much grease you put in the assembly hub. Some say 1/3 full other say just put a coating of it on. But most these video's are of other models. So if anyone can help, that would be great. :)
High school and college automotive taught. As well as 45 years of maintaining 60s, 70s and 80s vehicles with tapered bearings. Use spanner to dial nut down till it stops. Then back off 1/8 turn to feel drag disappear. Then finish with crown and cotter pin.
TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
Good example of why not to buy an electrical version of a perfectly fine mechanical tools. Snap-on is insanely overpriced compared to other tools like Gear Wrench. Save money and just buy good quality "clicking" torque wrenches for the at home DIY people.
Peter This Is How it Works. I've Been A mechanic 49 years. It's The Same With Any Other tapered Wheel bearing. Put The Wheel On You Tighten The Nut So There is No Play When You Grab The Tire At 12 O'clock And 6 O'clock But You Can Still Move The Washer Behind The Nut With A Screw Driver. Thats How it Works. That's How it Was Taught When I Went To Vocational School In 1972 And 1973. Ask Any Old Time Mechanic. That Fixed Automobiles Back before Sealed Bearings Any Car or Truck Or Anything With A Inner And Outer tapered Wheel Bearing. I've Done It Thousands And Thousands Of Times Since i Was 17 Years Old. It Works No Torque Wrench Needed. Remove All Play But Still Able To Move Washer With Screw Driver. Period
Yep! We must be around same age! 👍 OH! Then the controversy on how u bend cotter pin. 😂
The washer is locked, they have little thing that slides in the grove of the axle splindle that keeps it from rotating.
I love this new adventure you're taking us on. You do like to teach and I think that's why you're not pressing the eject on this van. You are welcome to pull the cord and escape any time but remember, you are providing content few others have. We see the outside reviews but who gets to see it like you show it.. even if this is like the old 4runner unsealed bearings you pack by hand, or similar to 50 year old American made makes, it's still great to see your process and we can all use parts of what we learn. Everyone does it different but we are here for how you do you.
You're a good man, Peter! We've greatly enjoyed the HIACE content!!!
❤❤❤
The spec for the 2WD pickup is 34 N-m to SEAT the bearings in the races, turn the hub seven times, then back the nut off until "hand tight", then check the preload with a pull scale. So 29 N-m is definitely in the ballpark.
Still interesting as always Peter!
Based on your voice....this Van is kicking your butt.
Interesting vehicle,👍
👍interesting,Peter
Peter thanks so much for this video, very nice!
Standard Toyota procedure for adjusting front wheel bearings is to go to the specified torque while rotating wheel and then loosen the nut off and tighten by hand as far as will go (not ratchet or wrench). I find this generally results in a slightly loose bearing.
Most reliable method for Toyota is to just adjust the nut with the wheel still on the car, just tighten it until the slop goes away.
I used to repack those cone bearings every 40,000km with high temp grease & new seal on the 1987 you needed a spring scale and tighten till breakaway torque ie stationary to rotate is 1.1kg. I'm afraid 😨 you may have over torqued this and it will wear out the bearings early.
Thank you Peter. Good stuff. :)
it is important while importing this vehicle to purchase in japan some important additional parts like alternator etc
Thanks for this video. Now I know how to check. I will have to loosen up the bearing nut a bit on my tacoma. It's on a bit too tight on mine right now. Also I had wish you would show us how you repack it. I'm doing mine right now and is confused as to how much grease you put in the assembly hub. Some say 1/3 full other say just put a coating of it on. But most these video's are of other models. So if anyone can help, that would be great. :)
Im old school. I have an old craftsman "clicker" & love it. And Newton Meters? When did we start using instead of ft lbs??🤔
High school and college automotive taught. As well as 45 years of maintaining 60s, 70s and 80s vehicles with tapered bearings. Use spanner to dial nut down till it stops. Then back off 1/8 turn to feel drag disappear. Then finish with crown and cotter pin.
29 Nm it's torque to settle the bearing then lock nut must be loosen and tighten by hand.
Interesting video. Is it possible to shoot some grease into that bearing with a needle tipped grease gun ?
Check the resistance on the other axle to know the correct torque.
Great job as usual. Cheers my friend.🇨🇦🇺🇸
The Vin Diesel sticker! 😆🤣
Peter use Google translator to read the Japanese Manual
That seems on the high side for a tapered wheel bearing. But who knows?
TY,,,,,,WOW incredible very interesting super kool ,1st class great info.,, AAAAAAAAAAA++++++++++++ again great video I liked it a lot ,keep up the great work.
Good example of why not to buy an electrical version of a perfectly fine mechanical tools. Snap-on is insanely overpriced compared to other tools like Gear Wrench. Save money and just buy good quality "clicking" torque wrenches for the at home DIY people.
3:52 that's what she said. I know few girls can tell ya all bout that. lol. jk.
love ur video/content tho. keep going.