Really nice process. Sweet. A couple things that I do differently that make life easier is to let the nitro out after the spring is removed and measure the piston height before disassembly w my vernier caliper then write that measurement down and you can always check it later then I drain the oil through the HS adjuster which takes half the time. I made a thread in rod that is machined smooth about 60mm worth that threads in the nitro can and you can preset the nitro piston height during bleeding so you don't have to kill your shoulders and back trying to push the piston back in. All preset and saves a painful step. XC shocks require mad force to set the piston. I did have a tool machined to bleed the shocks through the HS adjuster instead like yamaha which works better in my opinion and there is faster bleed and never a bubble as you can see into the body. I then submerge the adjuster in oil then top off the HS port and insert it facing horizontal. In your case I would make sure that shock is fully upright and the bleed port topped off and level before setting that screw in. I really loved your video and process.
My vacuum and nitrogen setup: ruclips.net/video/4LhnHCgVqDY/видео.html
Really nice process. Sweet. A couple things that I do differently that make life easier is to let the nitro out after the spring is removed and measure the piston height before disassembly w my vernier caliper then write that measurement down and you can always check it later then I drain the oil through the HS adjuster which takes half the time. I made a thread in rod that is machined smooth about 60mm worth that threads in the nitro can and you can preset the nitro piston height during bleeding so you don't have to kill your shoulders and back trying to push the piston back in. All preset and saves a painful step. XC shocks require mad force to set the piston. I did have a tool machined to bleed the shocks through the HS adjuster instead like yamaha which works better in my opinion and there is faster bleed and never a bubble as you can see into the body. I then submerge the adjuster in oil then top off the HS port and insert it facing horizontal. In your case I would make sure that shock is fully upright and the bleed port topped off and level before setting that screw in. I really loved your video and process.
Good tips, thanks!
How number oil seal shock breaker it..?
Kas sinuga ühendust saab võtta?
Hi, nice video. What kind of vacuum pump are you using? Why are you using Fork oil? There should be shock oil I think. Motul has one.
Pump is Vevor RS-1, 3 CFM, 1/3 HP. Regarding oil I just use whatever that has correct viscosity. No problems so far.
@@ssse3123 that fork oil has almost similar viscosity like shock oil, but shock oil has much greater viscosity index.
@@ladislavesterka125 thanks for the tip. I might try it next time.
@@ssse3123 can you please list all components needed for vacuum bleeding? Thank you
@@ladislavesterka125 my vacuum setup is similar to shockbleeder.com and heliosure.com examples. I used a water filter enclosure to build it.
isn't the hose adapter thread size 3/8" ? 1/8" is equal to 3,175mm
"1/8" is actually the name of BSPP pipe standard size that uses this thread. It is super confusing I know.
anyway to just change out the bump stop?
Yes - take it all apart :)
Thanks ! Will you do one on the WP XACT spring fork ?
Sure if I get my hands on them someday. Should be very similar to WP 6500 forks though.
So have you ever figured out what that threaded collar is that comes with the T170S1?
That is still a mystery to me
@@ssse3123 Lol, me as well.
I was good until you got to that bleeding process and N filling tool. Lot of expensive one use stuff.
Can you review parts needed for vacuum and nitrogen?
Video is up. Better late than never :)
Can i do this without vacuum pump?
Probably yes.
google "DRC RCU Rear Suspension Bleed Cup" - slavens sells them.
Someone makes a funnel that screws into the top of the filler/bleeder cap. Search for "DRC REAR SUSPENSION BLEED CUP FOR WP" on YT or google.